Just a three-hour flight from the US, the highlands of Guatemala’s Pacific slope are famous worldwide for holding a host of regional endemics. The improbable-looking Pink-headed Warbler might top the list, but it’s hardly outdone by other gems like Blue-throated Motmot, Blue-and-white Mockingbird, and Chestnut-sided Shrike-Vireo. With an expected split happening soon, one more species will soon be added to the list of specialties: nearly a Guatemalan endemic, the incomparable Goldman’s Warbler. Less well known are the great concentrations of boreal migrants—especially wood warblers—that share these cool montane forests with the vast selection of Central American specialties. Though our tour specifically targets the resident endemics, we’ll also take time to enjoy fully the diversity of the region’s birdlife.
Our Tikal Extension takes us even further back in time and into tropical lowland habitats with a completely new suite of birds. Watching Ocellated Turkeys, parrots, and perhaps even the local pair of Orange-breasted Falcons among the ruins of one of the greatest cities ever built in the New World is a treasured experience.
Day 1: Participants will be met on arrival in Guatemala City for transfer to our hotel in Antigua, often described as the most beautiful city in all of Central America. Our first introductory meeting will be at dinner at our hotel, followed by a night in Antigua.
Day 2: We’ll load up early and make the hour-long drive to Finca El Zapote, on the south slopes of Volcán de Fuego. Here, we’ll have a wonderful breakfast in the garden with our first Guatemalan birds surrounding us: Orange-fronted and Pacific Parakeets might be zipping around, Rufous-naped Wrens should be bouncing conspicuously through the trees, Turquoise-browed Motmot could perch conspicuously, and flocks of migrant warblers will mingle with Yellow-winged Tanagers and Red-legged Honeycreepers. We’ll have the full morning to explore the finca, paying special attention to the understory for Tody Motmot, Bushy-crested Jay, and whatever else might catch our eye. After lunch, we’ll continue driving towards Los Tarrales, our exciting birding destination for the next few days.
Days 3-4: We’ll have two full days to explore Los Tarrales, a private nature reserve that encompasses a wide elevation range and lots of special birds. We’ll try to cover as much habitat as possible, exploring the trails around the lodge for lower-elevation species like White-bellied Chachalaca, Turquoise-browed Motmot, Orange-fronted, Orange-chinned, and Pacific Parakeets, Long-billed Starthroat, Barred Antshrike, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Masked Tityra, Long-tailed Manakin, and White-winged Tanager. Tody Motmot is a distinct possibility, although it’s gotten more difficult to see here in recent years. The higher elevations of Los Tarrales are often productive for some of the hardest specialties of the region, including Azure-rumped Tanager, Bar-winged Oriole, and Emerald-chinned Hummingbird. Nights at Los Tarrales.
Day 5: We’ll make an early departure from Los Tarrales and drive to the south shore of Lake Atitlan, where we’ll have a full morning to look for various specialties. There are multiple birding options here, and we’ll decide on an exact plan based on what we’ve already seen at Los Tarrales. We’ll likely take a hike on a narrow forest trail that has produced goodies like Gray-collared Becard, Bar-winged Oriole, Blue-and-white Mockingbird, and Blue-crowned Chlorophonia in the past. We’ll then take a boat across Lake Atitlán (a wonderful experience!) and have lunch at a lakeside hotel near Panajachel, before a three- to five-hour drive to the town of San Marcos. Night in San Marcos.
Day 6: We have a full day to explore the area around San Marcos. Our primary target in the morning will be one of the jewels of the birding world: Resplendent Quetzal. With some luck, we hope to catch a glimpse of the extraordinary male with his elongated uppertail coverts. The northern populations are vocally, visually, and genetically distinct from the birds in Costa Rica and Panama, a potential split that adds intrigue to an already intriguing bird! After lunch at a local house (with Rufous and Violet Sabrewings!), we’ll have a short break back at our hotel and continue our afternoon birding at slightly higher elevations. Here, we hope to run across birds like Pink-headed Warbler, White-naped Brushfinch, and perhaps Black Thrush. Night in San Marcos.
Day 7: We have another morning to explore San Marcos before heading further west towards Sibinal. This exciting area is relatively little-birded and we’re sure to have a fun morning of birding, with possibilities including Azure-rumped Tanager, Green-throated Mountain-gem, Northern Emerald-Toucanet, Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, Brown-capped Vireo, Flame-colored Tanager, Hooded Grosbeak, and Blue-crowned Chlorophonia. If we’re really lucky, we might even find the scarce Black-crested Coquette. After lunch in San Marcos, we’ll drive a couple hours and wind up in the small town of Sibinal. We’ll try to arrive in time for some rest before dinner in preparation for the following morning. Night in Sibinal.
Day 8: We’ll have an early breakfast (04:30) and head to a trail on the slopes of Volcán Tacaná. Our primary target today is the enigmatic Horned Guan, which is usually but not always present – depending on recent weather conditions, we may or may not encounter the fruiting trees favored by the guan. This is a very steep hike, and we’ll be close to 10,000 feet in elevation, but it’s much shorter and easier than the other available options for Horned Guan. We’ll take it slow, birding on the way. The forest here is beautiful, full of Pink-headed Warblers, Amethyst-throated Hummingbirds, and Blue-throated Motmots. Other enticing possibilities include Yellow Grosbeak (the ultra-saturated Guatemalan (sub)species) and maybe even Black-capped Siskin. We’ll spend a full morning on the trail, followed by a simple and delicious lunch at the house of our local guide. Our afternoon plan will depend on what birds we see in the morning. We’ll be back in Sibinal for a relatively early dinner and much-needed sleep!
Day 9: Our second morning around Sibinal will be spent birding some nearby roadsides, which are thick with Pink-headed Warblers and could harbor Chestnut-sided Shrike-Vireo. We’ll try to clean up some of the highland species we’re still missing, perhaps including the uncommon and shy Black-throated Jay or the skulky Rufous-browed Wren. Black-capped Siskin is another target in this area. We’ll have an early lunch at a local village, and then load up for another long drive. This time, we’re heading for the town of Huehuetenango, a drive that will likely take around five hours. Night in Huehuetenango.
Day 10: Our morning will begin with bundling in all our layers, as this will surely be the chilliest day of the tour. We’ll drive to Todos Santos Cuchumatan, the best spot in the world to see the stunning Goldman’s Warbler. Once considered a subspecies of Yellow-rumped Warbler, this bird has recently been shown to have substantially different genetics. To the birder, it’s different in just about every other way too: appearance, voice, size, shape, and range! The Goldman’s is found only in Guatemala, and even here it is restricted to high-elevation areas with junipers and pines. Surely seeing this beauty will be one of the highlights of the tour. We have a full day to explore this incredible plateau, with lunch at a cozy local restaurant. Other interesting possibilities up here include Ocellated and Singing Quails, Garnet-throated Hummingbird, Golden-crowned Kinglet, Brown Creeper, Rock Wren, Olive Warbler, Pink-headed Warbler, siskins (the strange perplexus subspecies of Pine Siskin occurs here, as well as the rarer Black-capped), and the Guatemalan subspecies of Yellow-eyed Junco and Northern Flicker (both probable splits). Night in Huehuetenango.
Day 11: Today is mostly a travel day. We’ll drive approximately two hours from Huehuetenango to Xela, where we’ll hop on a short internal flight back to Guatemala City. We should arrive around mid-day, and we’ll head straight to a farewell lunch to celebrate our time in the Guatemala highlands! We end the main tour at the airport with drop-offs for evening flights home, or transfers to your hotel for an optional extra night in the city.
Those continuing on the extension will take a short flight to Flores for the night.
Tikal Extension
Day 12: We’ll start the morning quite early near the town of Santa Ana, an area of open savannah and scrub. Before the heat sets in, we’ll make a special effort to find Black Catbird, a Yucatán specialty. The supporting cast might include Vermilion Flycatcher, Black-throated Bobwhite, Olive Sparrow, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Botteri’s Sparrow, and Gray-crowned Yellowthroat. Depending on the weather, we’ll also probably spend some time at a local reserve called Ixpanpajul, which harbors a good mix of forest species (often including Keel-billed Toucan, Black-headed Trogon, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, White-breasted Wood-Wren, and Blue Bunting).
We’ll have lunch and a mid-day break at our hotel before heading back out again. We’ll probably check some nearby marshes (by foot or by boat!) that can be loaded with Purple Gallinules, Northern Jacanas, Neotropic Cormorants, and perhaps even Least or Pinnated Bitterns.
Day 13: An early morning will see us driving to Yaxha, a short distance southeast of Tikal. Named for its proximity to the sparkling turquoise waters of the nearby lagoons, Yaxha (“Yax” = green, “Ha” = water) was occupied for some 1500 years up to about the year 900. The impressive ruins of the Maya city are aligned along an arrow-straight axis nearly a mile long and culminate in the monumental buildings of the Eastern Acropolis. The fine forest surrounding the site abounds with tropical birds, including the dramatic Pale-billed Woodpecker and a variety of colorful parrots, trogons, toucans, hummingbirds, and tanagers. We have a good chance at Yucatan Flycatcher, and perhaps Gray-throated Chat or Blue Bunting. We’ll keep an eye out overhead for King Vulture, and the resident Bat Falcon is likely to greet us too. We’ll have lunch near Yaxha and head to Tikal in the early afternoon to check into our hotel. We’ll have an optional evening outing bird around the hotel grounds and parking lot of Tikal, which is often loaded with parrots, Russet-naped Wood-Rail, Ocellated Turkey, and more! Night at Tikal.
Day 14: Guatemala’s first national park, Tikal, is, simply put, one of a kind; a combination of nature and culture without parallel. Orange-breasted Falcons nest on breathtaking pyramids, and Ocellated Turkeys wander around unconcernedly just as they likely did in the days of the classical Maya. We also have a good chance of seeing Crested Guan and another of the prizes among the cracids, Great Curassow, which is relatively confiding (but still uncommon) under the protected conditions of the national park.
We’ll make the most of our full day here, departing at 4:30am and walking into the park to experience sunrise atop one of the pyramids. This can be a great way to listen to the forest come alive at dawn, with parrots (White-crowned, White-fronted, Red-lored, and Mealy) flying around, Keel-billed Toucans and Brown Jays in the canopy, Ridgway’s Rough-winged Swallow and Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift overhead, raptors in the distance, and usually a surprise or two! Among the many other possibilities are Russet-naped Wood-Rail, White-bellied Emerald, Slaty-tailed, Gartered, and Black-headed Trogons, Tody Motmot, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Keel-billed Toucan, several species of woodcreeper including Tawny-winged, Ruddy, and Northern Barred, Northern Bentbill, Stub-tailed Spadebill, Eye-ringed Flatbill, Royal Flycatcher, White-bellied and Spot-breasted Wrens, White-collared Manakin, Black-throated Shrike-Tanager, Olive-backed Euphonia, and Montezuma Oropendola. We’ll probably see well over 100 species in total! Night in Tikal.
Day 15: We’ll spend another morning around Tikal, perhaps focusing on some secondary forest nearby for more localized specialties like Gray-throated Chat, Yucatan Flycatcher, Mangrove Vireo, and Rose-throated Tanager. Depending on flight schedules, we’ll head back to Flores at some point in the afternoon, stopping for lunch and birding along the way. We’ll fly back to Guatemala City in the afternoon or evening and enjoy a scrumptious farewell dinner before our departures home. Night in Guatemala City.
Day 16: The extension ends with transfers to the airport for flights home.
Note: The information presented here is an abbreviated version of our formal General Information for Tours to Guatemala. Its purpose is solely to give readers a sense of what might be involved if they take this tour. Although we do our best to make sure that what follows here is completely accurate, it should not be used as a replacement for the formal document which will be sent to all tour registrants, and whose contents supersedes any information contained here.
ENTERING AND LEAVING GUATEMALA: US citizens must have a passport valid for at least six months beyond the date you plan to leave Guatemala. At the time of writing, there is no visa requirement for US citizens, but a tourist card is required and will be issued either during your flight or on entry. Citizens of other countries may need a visa and should check their nearest Guatemalan embassy. If required by the embassy or visa-granting entity, WINGS can provide a letter for you to use regarding your participation in the tour.
A departure tax of US $30 is due at the airport in Guatemala City upon departure, although this is usually included in the price of your international air ticket. A security fee of US $3 may need to be paid in cash (U.S. dollars or Guatemalan quetzales) after you pass through airport security.
PACE OF THE TOUR: This tour is moderately strenuous*. Most days will begin with breakfast starting between 5:00 and 6:00 a.m. (sometimes earlier), followed by several hours of walking on trails or roads that are usually somewhat steep and rocky. There is not much flat ground in the highlands of Guatemala, so please be prepared to walk on some incline most of the time. Even the flatter roads are often made of uneven cobblestones. All of our walks will be at a relatively slow pace, with abundant opportunity to pause for a rest, but please expect to be walking an average of three to five miles per day. If you can’t keep up with the pace of the group, there will usually be an option to stay back at a hotel or in the tour bus. Most days we will take a boxed breakfast with us in the field. Some days will also include a boxed lunch, but most days we will have a sit-down midday meal in a hotel or restaurant, followed by more relaxed birding in the afternoon or a drive to our next hotel.
*The hike to look for Horned Guan is very strenuous. This is an optional excursion, and involves a relentlessly steep hike up the flank of one of the local volcanoes. It requires an early breakfast at 4:30am, followed by a drive of about an hour to the base of the trail. We are now using an easier location with a shorter trail; the total hike will only be around one-and-a-half miles round-trip (but still very steep, and difficult on the knees on the descent). The trail is fairly well-maintained, but with some loose dirt and rocks. Depending on the location of the guans, we may even have to divert onto one of various steep side trails with loose dirt and roots. There is a chance we might need to split up the group, with some proceeding at a slower pace with another guide. We’ll make every effort to show this special bird to anyone who is able, but this is a situation where honesty and flexibility are crucial. The hike will be very challenging! Depending on the overall composition of the group, we may be able to offer another birding option for those who do not even wish to attempt the hike, probably involving some easy roadside birding around the base of the trail.
There is a fair amount of driving on this tour, an unavoidable necessity in order to reach all of our birding destinations. Guatemalan roads are generally in poor shape, so traveling relatively short distances can take a long time. Expect several afternoon journeys that could take at least three to five hours, with a couple pit stops and snack breaks along the way. We do our best to estimate drive times, but frequently encounter unexpected traffic or slow trucks. It’s a good idea to bring a book to read or music to listen to during these journeys.
HEALTH: The Centers for Disease Control recommends that you consult with your physician or a physician specializing in travel medicine, and that you make sure that all routine vaccinations are up to date. Yellow fever is not a disease risk in Guatemala, but travelers arriving from a country where yellow fever is present must present proof of vaccination. At the time of writing, the CDC notes that there is no malaria risk in Guatemala City, Antigua, or Atitlan. The CDC has determined that a malaria risk does exist in rural areas below 5000’ elevation and this may include areas we visit in the lowlands around Tikal. You should discuss with your doctor the best preventive measures to take. Using insect repellent and wearing long pants and sleeves to prevent mosquito bites is also effective as a preventive measure.
You should bring adequate supplies of all prescription and special medications, as they are not likely to be conveniently available in the areas this tour visits. Many travelers to Guatemala experience digestive upsets; consult with your physician about the need to bring with you anything beyond over-the-counter diarrhea medication, and drink only bottled water and other beverages during your visit.
Biting insects are scarce nearly everywhere on this tour, but biting gnats can be an annoyance at Los Tarrales; long sleeves, long pants, and perhaps a head net will ward off most of them. Some mosquitos are possible anywhere, and chiggers are present around Tikal but usually not a major problem. The sun can be surprisingly strong, making a hat a necessity at most sites and sunglasses useful.
CLIMATE: Occasional rain is always possible, but the dry season in the Guatemalan highlands is characterized by bright, sunny days and cool temperatures ranging from the mid-40s to upper-50s at higher-elevation sites (at San Marcos and the Sibinal area, for example) to the 80s or even 90 F at Los Tarrales, where it is also somewhat more humid. A sweater or light jacket will add to your comfort for our mornings in the highlands. The coldest location of the tour is at Los Cuchumatanes, where we’ll be looking for Goldman’s Warbler. Here, it can be in the 30s or lower 40s at night with a biting wind, although typically it warms up into the 50s and 60s quickly during the day. It is recommended that you bring some layers for this day, including a jacket, gloves, and a hat.
Weather in the El Peten lowlands (Tikal) is likely to be hot and humid with temperatures ranging from the 60s or 70s in early morning to the 90s or even 100 by mid-day. Rain showers are possible at any time and the air is constantly heavy with humidity, so light, quick-drying clothing is recommended. We try to take a break after lunch to avoid the worst heat of the day.
ALTITUDE: The city of Antigua is at about 5,000 feetr. Los Tarrales is lower, with most of our birding taking place between around 1,000 and 5,000 feet. We’ll ascend to Atitlan, which is between 5,000 and 6,000 feet. San Marcos is situated just below 8,000 feet. In the vicinity of Sibinal we’ll be birding from around 8,000 to 10,000 feet. The highest location of the tour is at Todos Santos Cuchamatan, where we’ll be looking for Goldman’s Warbler. Here, we’ll reach over 12,000 feet in elevation, so we will make a special effort to go at a slow pace, drink plenty of water, and apply sunscreen!
For the Tikal extension, all birding is at or below 1,000 feet in elevation.
FOOD: The food in Guatemala is generally of good to excellent quality. We often take simple packed breakfasts, often egg or ham-and-cheese sandwiches, hard boiled eggs, and/or fruit. Hotel breakfasts generally consist of eggs, bread, fried plantains, black beans, juice and coffee or tea (decaffeinated coffee is not widely available). Midday meals and dinners usually feature chicken or beef, tortillas, black beans or pasta. Expect to eat a lot of chicken!
The food in Sibinal, where we base for two nights to look for Horned Guan, is more basic. Fresh vegetables are hard to find in this part of the country, so please be prepared to eat simple meals consisting of chicken, rice, beans, and/or eggs.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Our hotel in Antigua is comfortable and quaint, with private bathroom facilities; it is built on the site of a baroque convent and incorporates some of the ruins. The rooms at Los Tarrales are comfortable (although fairly small) and all have private toilets; two of the rooms may share a shower. The hotel at San Marcos is a comfortable business-style hotel with nice rooms; the food at the restaurant is more basic. The hotel at Sibinal is quite basic but comfortable, with private bathrooms and hot water. In Huehuetenango we stay at a comfortable modern hotel. Our hotel in Guatemala City is of very good quality and has all the expected amenities.
The Jungle Lodge at Tikal is a resort-style hotel, with comfortable rooms and private bathrooms, a restaurant, bar, swimming pool and many modern comforts and amenities. Electricity is sometimes shut off for a couple hours at a time depending on the solar-powered batteries, but is not usually a major inconvenience.
WIFI: All of our hotels have WiFi, with at least occasional connectivity. Expect slow or intermittent signal; sometimes the internet won’t work at all. At some places, such as the Tikal Jungle Lodge and Los Tarrales, WiFi might only be available in the main lobby or restaurant, and may not reach every room.
TRANSPORTATION: We will be traveling in a comfortable, air-conditioned minibus.
SMOKING: We request that you not smoke in the vehicles or when the group is gathered for meals, checklists, etc. If you are sharing a room with a non-smoker, please do not smoke in the room. If you smoke in the field, do so well away and downwind from the group. If any site where the group is gathered has a stricter policy than the WINGS policy, that stricter policy will prevail.
IN BRIEF: The tour through Guatemala’s rich birding landscapes provided an abundance of remarkable avian encounters, with notable highlights featuring the Horned Guan, Pink-headed Warblers, Ocellated Quail, Resplendent Quetzal, Orange-breasted Falcon, and Ocellated Turkeys.
Beginning in Antigua, participants were greeted by the vibrant avifauna, including Violet- and Rufous Sabrewings. Moving to Tarrales Nature Reserve, days were filled with extraordinary sightings such as Collared Forest-Falcons, Long-tailed Manakins, and Black-and-white Owls. The quest for the elusive Resplendent Quetzal in San Marcos yielded memorable moments, with sightings complemented by encounters with a Yellow-throated Nightingale-Thrush and Rufous-browed Wrens. In Sibinal, the excitement peaked with the sighting of the elusive Horned Guan and the frosty-headed Pink-headed Warbler, marking unforgettable lifers for all. The journey to Huehuetenango showcased a diverse array of species, including the rare Goldman’s Warbler and the secretive and extremely rare Ocellated Quail. The extension to Petén added further richness to the birding experience, with highlights including encounters with Black Catbirds, Rose-throated Tanagers, and the rare Yellow-breasted Crake. Exploring Tikal’s archaeological wonders unveiled an enchanting array of species, from Orange-breasted Falcons perched atop ancient temples to Royal Flycatchers and White-whiskered Puffbirds adorning the forest canopy.
Throughout the journey, camaraderie and shared experiences enhanced the enjoyment, culminating in a memorable final dinner celebrating the splendor of Guatemala’s avian treasures.
IN DETAIL: We started our tour as usual in the beautiful town of Antigua, which was once the heart of the New World. Early arrivals went out in search of birds on their own even before a lovely welcome dinner, finding great species like Violet and Rufous Sabrewings. Early on the first morning, we made our way to one of Guatemala’s most beautiful fincas on the southern foot of Volcan de Fuego for a great morning of introductory birding in the area. Shortly after arrival, we were treated to large numbers of migrant Orchard and Baltimore Orioles, while the first large flocks of Pacific Parakeets, numerous pairs of Yellow-winged Tanagers, and Cinnamon-bellied Saltators gave everyone time to get acquainted with the new bird environment. Before and after a wonderful breakfast in the stunning gardens, we enjoyed looks at several freshly fledged Green Herons and a spectacular show of two Bat Falcons, while we got a surprise visit from two Neotropical River Otters diving through the ponds, while Fuego Volcano kept spewing out large clouds of ash continually. In the afternoon, we carried on towards our destination for the day, the Tarrales Nature Reserve. On the way, we, of course, made a stop at the “magical gas station” where we got fantastic looks at a resident Gray-crowned Yellowthroat over ice cream. We arrived in Tarrales in time to enjoy flocks of Pacific, Orange-Chinned, and Orange-Fronted Parakeets flying over the lodge while noisy White-bellied Chachalacas called out into the evening.
Our two full days in Tarrales were filled with one spectacular sighting after another. Starting on the first day with a young Collared Forest-Falcon that swooped in on a branch right in front of us and was as surprised as we were. Followed by possibly the longest scope views of two male Long-tailed Manakins singing away until our attention was caught by a nearby Green Shrike-Vireo that everyone got good looks at while it foraged casually through a Tourist Tree. The remainder of the morning, we enjoyed Short-tailed and Zone-tailed Hawks while chasing Blue-tailed Hummingbirds until the heat sent us back to the lodge for a lunch break. But the afternoon wasn’t going to be any less spectacular. Starting with a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Everilda heard nearby Barred Parakeets. An opportunity that we weren’t going to let pass. In her twenty years of birding experience, she had only seen them perched twice. So, we closed in on their calls coming out of a seeding bamboo when we managed to observe over a dozen of these extremely rare parakeets. But the day was far from over at this point. Before nightfall, we were still to encounter a Mottled Owl in another growth of bamboo and then Everilda showed us a pair of Black-and-White Owls she had been tracking with a big smile on her face.
On the second day in Tarrales, we headed up to La Rinconada before daybreak to get a chance at the elusive Highland Guan. We enjoyed a fascinating soundscape of the Guans calling and doing their wing rattle in flight. Once it was light enough, we walked up the trail a little further when someone shouted out “I got one”! We got a chance to watch a male hop up bare branches and tree trunks and then take flight doing the amazing wing rattle right in front of all of us. We then headed up the volcano to Vesubio where we tracked down the regional endemic Bar-winged Orioles getting great looks and the even smaller distributed Azure-rumped Tanager when we heard a high-up call of an Ornate Hawk-Eagle above our heads. We spotted the bird and then watched this stunning raptor dive in display to almost eye level where everyone got great looks before it disappeared behind the tree line. In the afternoon, we had great luck spotting a singing Striped Cuckoo with scope views while tracking down a Turquoise-browed Motmot and Yellow-naped Parrots and lots of other species to keep us well entertained.
From Tarrales, we headed towards Lake Atitlán to bird a trail up the western slopes of Volcan Atitlán that had been rather productive in the past. And it did not disappoint. On the hike up, we encountered a rare pair of Gray-collared Becard and then had spectacular views of the usually very skulky Blue-and-white Mockingbird that circled us several times giving us stunning looks. Shortly after, we encountered a stunning pair of Blue-crowned Chlorophonia right above our heads. The stars of the morning, though, were two Fulvous Owls that perched on the most beautiful mossy branch followed by two male Mountain Trogons. What a morning!!! The plans for the afternoon were to get us to our next destination of San Marcos, but we made a quick stop to squeeze in a Sora on the lakeshore before crossing beautiful Lake Atitlan.
The next two days we spent around the town of San Marcos with the main objective of encountering the Resplendent Quetzal. On the first morning, we spent some time around an active nest cavity hoping for a Quetzal to make an appearance when a gorgeous Yellow-throated Nightingale-Thrush hopped up on a fence right in front of us. Out of the corner of our eye, we saw a large bird fly in, and sure enough, a wonderful male Resplendent Quetzal flew in right in front of us and started calling and displaying before entering the cavity. Another highlight of the morning was a Guatemalan Yellow Grosbeak that was spotted just after arriving at the refuge. In the afternoon, we went to the Astillero de San Marcos, where we got great views of a Rufous-browed Wren, both Brushfinches, and a flock of Black-throated Jays followed by Yellow-backed Orioles.
On our second day, we birded the lovely cobblestone road to Bojonal, even finding a male Hooded Grosbeak before leaving breakfast. Getting more great looks at species like Blue-crowned Chlorophonia, Yellowish Flycatcher and to our surprise, another male Resplendent Quetzal. We all watched it fly over our heads in the very way the Maya mythology describes it as the feathered serpent. Another highlight was an Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush that finally sang away on a bare branch right in front of our eyes.
In the afternoon, our main objective was to get us to Sibinal, the base town from where we would start our quest for the Horned Guan and the stunning Pink-headed Warbler. We arrived in good time and stopped on a dirt road for some casual afternoon birding, when someone shouted out “I got it”! And there it was, our first Pink-headed Warbler for the trip for everyone to enjoy. This frosty-headed beauty of pink is a lifer to remember for the rest of our lives! Excited about the encounter, we finished off the day with a Guatemalan Pygmy Owl and some extremely bad singing from a nearby church that can’t be avoided by any means. Yet again, what a fantastic day in the western highlands of Guatemala.
On our full day in the region, we left Sibinal long before dawn to see one of Guatemala’s most mythical birds. The Horned Guan! This species is notorious for being very hard to come by, usually accompanied by extremely hard hikes and exhaustion. We arrived at our first location at perfect timing and immediately started scanning the mountainside in front of us, a beautiful landscape filled with large Canaque trees and old-growth conifers. It was a freezing cold morning and while the sun slowly edged over the ridge, we enjoyed the songs of Pink-headed Warblers and Chestnut-sided Shrike-Vireos while not taking our eyes away from the forest. Suddenly the excitement became frantic when we spotted a beautiful Horned Guan hopping up a conifer much like the Highland Guan had done days earlier. We scoped our desired Unicorn, and after frantic first looks, everyone got their share of this once-in-a-lifetime experience! For the remainder of the morning, we birded down towards Roman’s house picking up many more sought-after species like Blue-throated Motmot, Chestnut-sided Shrike-Vireo and Black-capped Siskins. One highlight chased the next. In the afternoon, we got rained out, but our excitement levels were topped up anyway, and we enjoyed a relaxing evening.
From Sibinal, we worked our way back east towards Huehuetenango, making a stop in the morning in Union Reforma, enjoying many more Pink-headed Warblers and several migrating Swainson’s and Broad-winged Hawks dispersed by two White-throated Swifts. The drive to Huehuetenango was uneventful and we arrived in good time to get some rest before tomorrow’s planned early start up the Cuchumatanes.
We left for Guatemala’s highest plateau well before sunrise, and it took us a while to drive up to over 11,000 feet. In Chiabal, we picked up our good friend Esteban and his daughter Cecilia, who is a new bird guide in training. We drove on to our very favorite spot for first looks at the oh so different Goldman’s Warbler. With a cup of hot coffee in hand, we shortly after had a magnificent male Goldman’s swoop in and give us ample time and close-up opportunities to marvel at this special Warbler. After a first look, one participant looked at me, saying: “I had thought the bird on your shirt was exaggeratedly chunky, but now I think he’s not even chunky enough!” And yes, that’s how different of a bird it is. We enjoyed the company of the Warbler for some time, while looking at the resident Yellow-eyed Juncos, Spotted Towhees, and three very nearby Guatemalan Northern Flickers. Even a female Olive Warbler came right down to eye level to greet us. The rest of the morning we reserved for the search of another very special bird that inhabits that unique páramo-type habitat of low juniper forests and pine Savanna. The target, the elusive Ocellated Quail! This species often goes undetected altogether. But April is one of the better months to experience at least the call of this secretive bird. We birded and drove through the unique habitat of the Cuchumatanes all morning, enjoying the landscape and picking up bits and pieces like the resident Savannah Sparrow and Eastern Meadowlarks. We decided to hit one more patch for our elusive target before we had to turn around for lunch and the descent back to Huehue. After a few minutes, one participant called out two Quails walking right over a plowed field in front of us, a male and a female followed and disappeared between the grass. We tried to surround them and everyone got looks at another two males that flushed out of the grassland once we got off the vehicle. What excitement!
After a lovely lunch with Esteban and Cecilia, we enjoyed some more casual birding around Chiabal, picking up the resident Rock Wren and the very different-looking Chiapas subspecies of Pine Siskins. Tired but very happy, we said our goodbyes to Esteban and returned to Huehuetenango for our last big meal together. The main tour was coming to an end, and the following day we would fly back to the city, have a lovely lunch and then fly on to a whole new region and birdscape to Petén. A great big thank you to everyone on the tour for making this such a great experience with lots of birds and experiences shared!
Tikal Extension: We arrived in Petén in the evening and made our way to the beautiful Villa Maya. The next morning, we got up before dawn to bird the Savannah for things like Black Catbird and Botteri’s Sparrow. The area is notoriously hot, so we made an effort to be there as early as possible. It was a Sparrow kind of morning, and within a short time, we racked up several Botteri’s, Green-backed and Olive Sparrow. Then we hit the best location for Black Catbird… a highway! Chasing the bird along the road, we eventually pinned one down, and with extreme luck, we even managed to put it in the scope for a minute. That left us enough time to try for another hard bird this morning. The Rose-throated Tanager. It took some effort to reach the location, but once there, our desired friend didn’t make us wait even a minute, and we all got to see a beautiful male before heading to lunch. In the afternoon, we had a special treat planned. We took a boat across Lake Petén Itzá in search of the rare Yellow-breasted Crake, and fingers crossed, maybe a Pinnated Bittern. Jose had recently discovered a new location and it didn’t take us all too long before a gorgeous crake walked out of the grass and gave everyone fantastic looks. A very worthy lifer for everyone! On the way back, we didn’t see one, but an incredible four Pinnated Bittern. Without a doubt a high count for the lake.
The next morning, we drove east to Yaxha in search of more Yucatan endemics. On the entry road, we picked up two Yucatan Flycatchers and to our big surprise, we found another Agami Heron in the same location as last year. Speechless by this encounter, we birded the remainder of the morning at the archaeological site and familiarized ourselves with Olive-backed Euphonias, Black-headed and Gartered Trogons, and the stunning Blue Bunting. Before leaving the site, we climbed the highest pyramid and enjoyed wonderful views over the Yaxhá lagoon in the midday sun. After lunch and a Wedge-tailed Sabrewing, we headed to Tikal, where an Ocellated Turkey and a Russet-naped Wood-Rail welcomed us.
The next two days we spent birding the archaeological site of Tikal which is always a magical experience. We started out enjoying the awakening forest from the lost world, listening to Pheasant Cuckoos and Bright-rumped Attilas, while the surrounding pyramids and temples slowly emerged from the fog. Once there was enough light, we soon spotted an Orange-breasted Falcon perched up high on temple four, while dozens of Red-lored, White-fronted, and Mealy Parrots flew around us at and below eye level giving us spectacular views. Over the next two days, we enjoyed many fantastic species like Scaly-throated Leaftosser, Stub-tailed Spadebill, Royal Flycatcher, Gray-headed Tanager, Ruddy, Tawny-winged, Northern Barred and Ivory-billed Woodcreepers, and a copulating pair of Barred Forest-Falcon seen at close range through the scope. Tikal always offers an endless number of species that make one wish to stay several more days to enjoy the vast range of lowland species. On our usual hike down the old runway, we encountered a Morelet’s Crocodile and listened to several more Yucatan Flycatchers and Scaled Pigeons while another Pheasant Cuckoo called into the early evening. Just before reaching the Hotel, we encountered a White-whiskered Puffbird, a great way to finish the day.
The next morning, we birded the road towards Uaxactún. This dirt road lies within the national park and represents over 20 km of fantastic birding. We encountered Red-crowned and Red-throated Ant-Tanagers, White-browed Gnatcatcher, and an absolutely stunning male Black-throated Shrike-Tanager. Then it was time to bid farewell to Tikal. We packed up and headed back to the Villa Maya for a wonderful lunch before taking our flight back to the city (Guatemala City) where we gathered for our final dinner at the Tikal Futura..
Thank you all for an absolutely spectacular trip! As much as the country and the birds make a trip special, so does the group itself. It was an absolute pleasure to have you in beautiful Guatemala!!!
- Roland Rumm
Roland was a spectacular addition as local leader to the trip. He is so positive, energetic, and helpful. He would do anything to help us and that was greatly appreciated. His birding knowledge is also exceptional. He worked so well with Luke and was continual finding birds to show us. He has amazing field skills and know the regional birds so well. Roland also added so much when it came to culture and history. I loved asking him about these topics and he could talk at length about what seemed like anything. For those of us who love immersing ourselves in all aspects of another country, having a local leader like Roland just made the trip!
- Andy F. on Guatemala
Roland was a brilliant leader, with great birding and interpersonal skills, and a deep knowledge of the country.
- Stephen M. on Guatemala
Roland is an exceptional guide - he is energetic, charming and an expert about both the birds and the locations we visited. He is a fountain of information about Central America, history, etc. I would love to have another birding trip with him. He is truly a gem!
- Rebecca V. on Guatemala
Maximum group size six with one leader or eight with two leaders.