Day 1: The tour begins at 6:30 p.m. with a meeting in the lobby of our hotel in Georgetown, Guyana. Night in Georgetown.

Day 2: We’ll depart before dawn, heading east along the coast to the Mahaica River. We’ll spend a couple hours birding from a small boat along the river, looking in particular for  Guyana’s national bird, the Hoatzin. We’ll also enjoy a number of other riverside birds, perhaps including Green-tailed Jacamar, Long-winged Harrier, Silvered Antbird, Black-capped Donacobius, Little Cuckoo, and Yellow Oriole. We’ll also have our first chance to search for a few regional specialties, including White-bellied Piculet and Blood-colored Woodpecker. After breakfast at our boat captain’s house, we’ll continue birding the nearby rice fields and patches of mangroves, looking for various waterbirds and perhaps even the local Rufous Crab Hawk. After an almost full morning here we’ll backtrack toward Georgetown, with at least one stop to check the mangrove-lined coastal mudflats. Our chief target here among the throngs of waders and passing seabirds is the aptly named Scarlet Ibis. The intensity of this bird’s red plumage, especially set against a backdrop of Snowy Egrets and Little Blue Herons, should form an indelible memory of color. Additionally, we should encounter numbers of Snail Kites, Limpkins, and Wattled Jacanas, among others.

After lunch at our hotel and a siesta, we’ll spend the remaining few hours of daylight at the Georgetown Botanical Gardens. This urban park is home to quite an impressive variety of birds, including several species of parrot (Festive, Orange-winged, Yellow-crowned), Red-shouldered Macaw, Blood-colored Woodpecker, White-bellied Piculet, Gray Kingbird, Violaceous Euphonia, Wing-barred Seedeater, and much more. Night in Georgetown.

Day 3: After breakfast, we’ll transfer to the nearby airport at Ogle for our charter flight to the interior. We’ll fly past the Demerara and Potaro Rivers and over hundreds of miles of unbroken tropical rainforest to land at Kaieteur, the world’s largest single-drop waterfall (by volume) and also spectacularly tall at 741 feet. This amazing waterfall is one of the scenic highlights of the tour; we’ll appreciate its grandeur from our plane as well as from the ground on a short and easy hike. We’ll have a packed lunch at Kaieteur and explore the trails around the falls, looking for Guianan Cock-of-the-rock in the forest and perhaps even Orange-breasted Falcon or White-tipped Swift cruising around the spectacular cliffs.

We’ll then continue to make the journey toward Iwokrama River Lodge, flying to a small airstrip at Fairview and driving the short distance to our lodge. After some time to settle into our rooms at Iwokrama, we’ll enjoy some evening birding on nearby trails (perhaps including the bizarre Capuchinbird), before having dinner overlooking the pristine rainforest and river. Night at Iwokrama River Lodge.

Day 4: The Iwokrama Rainforest is a vast wilderness of one million acres, established in 1996 as the Iwokrama International Centre for Rainforest Conservation and Development and located in one of the last four untouched tropical forests of the world, the Guiana Shield of northeastern South America. This is a protected area with a difference: the full involvement of people. Iwokrama is exceptional among conservation organizations because it joins with local people in every aspect of its work, from research to business, ensuring local economic and social benefits from forest use and conservation. On our first morning we’ll bird along the trail to Turtle Mountain. This two-mile-long trail winds up to about 950 feet and, although steep in places, has handrails and steps to make the passage manageable. The open understory of the lower trail makes it easy to watch mixed-species flocks, and here we’ll seek out birds such as Fasciated, Cinereous, Dusky-throated, and Amazonian Antshrikes, Brown-bellied Stipplethroat, Black-chinned and Common Scale-backed Antbirds, Wedge-billed and Buff-throated Woodcreepers, and if we’re very lucky, maybe even Red-and-black Grosbeak or Yellow-billed Jacamar! We’ll spend some time at a small clearing along the trail, looking for Black Nunbirds and Guianan Trogons along the edge. Once the trail starts climbing, the character of the forest rapidly changes. Mixed-species flocks are regular in the canopy along the upper part of the trail, where the shorter trees allow for slightly easier viewing. Here we might encounter birds such as Red-legged, Green, and Purple Honeycreepers or Spotted, Paradise, Bay-headed, and Opal-rumped Tanagers. 

In the afternoon we might take a boat down the Essequibo River, where we could see Anhingas, Ospreys, and Green Ibis along the riverbanks, Black-collared Swallows cavorting over the rocks and rapids, and parrots (possibly including Dusky and Red-fan) fly overhead. We might take another walk on a trail or along the road and search for any species we’ve missed so far. Night at Iwokrama River Lodge.

Day 5: We’ll have some time this morning to explore some other trails around Iwokrama before loading up and continuing over to Atta Lodge. Along the way, of course, we’ll keep our eyes open for roadside flocks, perched raptors, and parrots (and perhaps a few cotingas) or whatever else strikes our interest. Possibilities include Marail and Spix’s Guans, Great Black Hawk, Paradise Jacamar, and Pompadour Cotinga. We’ll make a stop in an area of white sand forest known as the Mori Scrub, where we hope to encounter the local Black Manakin as well as Rufous-crowned Elaenia, Red-shouldered Tanager, Olivaceous Schiffornis, and Bronzy Jacamar.

Arriving at Atta Lodge for lunch, we’ll then have some time to settle into our rooms and keep an eye out for birds around the lodge clearing (including a chance for the rare Crimson Fruitcrow). Our afternoon will likely be spent birding along some trails near the lodge. Night at Atta Rainforest Lodge.

Days 6-7: We have two full days to explore the forest around Atta Lodge. The trails are excellent, and we’ll likely spend some time birding right around the lodge clearing. Another major attraction here is the nearby Iwokrama Canopy Walkway. The 500-foot-long walkway has three platforms, the highest of which is about 100 feet above the ground. These could allow us to get great looks at a range of canopy species, many of which are difficult to see well from the forest floor. We’ll probably spend a couple hours birding from the walkway, where the flocks traveling past could include Paradise Jacamar, Guianan Puffbird, Yellow-throated and Waved Woodpeckers, Todd’s and Spot-tailed Antwrens, Black-tailed Tityra, and Dusky Purpletuft, or we can bird along the jungle trails, where antbird flocks can include White-plumed and Rufous-throated Antbirds, White-flanked and Long-winged Antwrens, and Cinereous and Dusky-throated Antshrikes. Roadside birding nearby could provide us with views of parrots such as Red-fan or Blue-cheeked, along with Rose-breasted Chat or Ringed Woodpecker. At least one evening will be spent on the roadside hoping for a glimpse of the rare White-winged Potoo. Nights at Atta Rainforest Lodge.

Day 8: After a brief morning’s outing around Atta, where we could encounter species such as Pied Puffbird, Red-throated Caracara, and Amazonian Grosbeak, we’ll start our transfer to Surama Ecolodge. On the way, we may stop at one or more trails for some additional birding time before heading to Surama: Gray-winged Trumpeter, Black Spider Monkey, Guianan Cock-of-the-rock, and Ferruginous-backed Antbird are all possible. If there is an active Harpy Eagle nest along our route, we will make an effort to get into the forest to see this incredible bird.  We’ll then continue on to Surama Ecolodge for lunch. 

On arrival at Surama we’ll receive a welcome from the lodge staff and settle into our accommodation. The pleasant community of Surama is set in five square miles of savanna and surrounded by the densely forested Pakaraima foothills. Surama’s inhabitants are mainly from the Macushi tribe and still observe many of the traditional practices of their forebears. The rooms are rather basic, but our meals will feature excellent local produce. There is great birding leading to the village and in the surrounding savanna, and we may see Savanna Hawk, Great Potoo, Fork-tailed Palm-swift, and Red-bellied Macaw during the drive to the lodge. For our first afternoon here we’ll likely explore the forest edge and open savanna looking for species such as Black, Crested, and Yellow-headed Caracaras, Scaled Pigeon, Plain-crested and Lesser Elaenias, Cayenne Jay, Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, and Finsch’s Euphonia. As dusk falls, Common Pauraque, White-tailed Nightjar, and Lesser Nighthawks often appear around the lodge grounds. Night at Surama Ecolodge.

Day 9: For our full day at Surama we’ll likely concentrate on the forests around the Burro Burro River. There are several interesting species to be seen here, one of the undoubted specialties of the area being Rufous-winged Ground-Cuckoo. While this species is very tough to find, the nearby forests are certainly among the better places in the Neotropics to look for it –but of course there are no guarantees. Ant swarms are surprisingly regular here and often have attendant antbirds and woodcreepers, including the hard-to-pin-down Rufous-throated Antbird and possibly the even scarcer Red-billed Woodcreeper. More regular possibilities include Great Jacamar, Black-necked and Green Aracaris, Crimson-crested and Red-necked Woodpeckers, Rufous-bellied Antwren, and White-crowned and Golden-headed Manakins. Night at Surama Ecolodge.

Day 10: We’ll have one more full morning of birding at Surama, with an exact plan depending on what birds we haven’t seen yet. After some time to pack up and a nice lunch, we’ll start our transfer to Manari Ranch, which should take around three hours. The transition from the forest to the savanna will be stark: a reminder of how our birding will change, too, for the next several days. We’ll arrive in the heat of the day and have a siesta, followed by some easy birding around the lodge grounds before sunset.

Day 11: Today we’ll watch the sunrise over the savanna as we drive towards the village of Karasabai…with a very special goal in mind: our primary target today is the stunning Sun Parakeet, a bird so bright and colorful you almost need sunglasses to watch it. If all goes according to plan, we’ll have a picnic breakfast just after dawn while scanning the rolling hills for flocks of parakeets, and depending on our luck, we should have some extra time to search for various other species. Possibilities include Green-tailed Jacamar, White-bellied Piculet, Black-crested Antshrike, Southern White-fringed Antwren, Blue-backed Manakin, Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant, and Burnished-buff Tanager.

This day will require a very early departure (probably around 4:00am) from Manari Ranch; the drive to Karasabai usually takes two to three hours depending on the road conditions. We’ll arrive back at Manari Ranch in the mid-afternoon and will have a couple hours of free time before dinner, in preparation for another very early start the following morning. There will be time for some optional independent birding around the grounds. Night at Manari Ranch.

Day 12: We have another very early start this morning (3:30 am), but don’t worry, we’ll be gently rocked back to sleep (if you so desire) in the back seat of a 4-wheel drive vehicle while riding along dirt roads…this time, heading to the village of Sand Creek to look for the endangered Red Siskin! This stunning bird is highly localized and we’re heading to one of the best places in the world to see it. It might take some patience and effort to find the siskins, but there are plenty of other birds in the surrounding patches of woodland to keep us occupied, including Plain-breasted Ground-Dove, Sooty-capped Hermit, Rusty-winged Antwren, White-bellied Antbird, Amazonian Scrub-Flycatcher, Pale-bellied Tyrant-Manakin, and Plumbeous Seedeater.

After checking in at the village of Sand Creek, where the community has recently taken a keen interest in conversation and ecotourism, we’ll continue our journey to Wichabai Ranch for lunch. Along the way, we’ll be sure to look for open savanna and wetland species like Bearded Tachuri, Pinnated Bittern, and Sharp-tailed Ibis. After a delicious lunch, we’ll work our way back to Manari Ranch in time for dinner. Night at Manari Ranch.

Day 13: Our main birding stop this morning will be at the Ireng River, which holds a few specialties that we won’t see elsewhere on the tour. With luck, these will include Hoary-throated Spinetail and Rio Branco Antbird. It will be a fairly leisurely day compared to the previous two, with a relaxed lunch at Manari Ranch followed by a transfer to the airport in Lethem for our flight back to Georgetown. After arriving back at the Ogle airport in Georgetown, we’ll transfer to Cara Lodge for our farewell dinner. Night in Georgetown.

Day 14: The tour concludes this morning with a transfer to the airport for international flights home.

2025 Narrative

In Brief: 
Our journey through Guyana was a dazzling parade of wildlife, from the bustling coasts to
the remote heart of the rainforest and the sweeping Rupununi savanna. It began in the
Georgetown Botanical Gardens, alive with the brilliant reds of Blood-colored Woodpeckers and
the cacophony of myriads of parrots, including Blue-and-Yellow, Red-and-Green, and Redshouldered
Macaws, setting the stage for the incredible diversity that awaited us.

Heading east to the Mahaica River, we delighted in the strange, prehistoric Hoatzins, grazing
serenely along the riverbanks, and glimpsed a rare Rufous Crab Hawk. The inland adventure
quickly escalated in drama and beauty, culminating in the awe-inspiring Kaieteur Falls, where the
spray and rainbow left us breathless. Just minutes later, we were mesmerized by a fiery male
Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock performing at its lek, a jewel of the Iwokrama national park.
Exploring Iwokrama and Turtle Mountain, the forest came alive with the haunting calls of
Capuchinbirds, the dazzling displays of Manakins, and the ethereal beauty of Pompadour
Cotinga. Antbirds, antwrens, and antshrikes revealed themselves along the trails, while soaring
King Vultures and a surprise Fulvous Shrike-Tanager added excitement to every turn.

The adventure continued south to the vast Rupununi Savanna, where glowing Sun Parakeets lit
up the early morning skies, and the critically endangered Red Siskins performed their fiery display.
Amidst the golden grasslands, encounters with a Giant Anteater and Jabirus added a dramatic
wildlife dimension, blending savanna and forest in a seamless spectacle of life.
From rainforest leks to cascading waterfalls, jungle rivers, and endless open plains, every day
offered unforgettable sights: apex predators like the Harpy Eagle, forest treasures like Pompadour
Cotinga and Capuchinbirds, and savanna gems like Sun Parakeets and Red Siskins. It was a
journey through Guyana’s wild heart, alive with color, sound, and motion—a truly unforgettable
celebration of nature at its most vibrant.

In Detail:
The Blood-colored Woodpecker and a myriad of parrots
Officially day one of the tour, we had an extra pre-tour excursion arranged to the Botanical
Gardens. We were picked up from the Hotel at 5:30 and were already birding only minutes later.
The garden was extremely active and teeming with life. We had absolutely wonderful encounters
with regional endemics like the Blood-colored Woodpecker and White-bellied Piculet while
getting introduced to the regional common birds and sounds. We even had the great joy to see
Blue-and-Yellow, Red-and-Green, and Red-shouldered Macaws. Later on we enjoyed our first
dinner in Guyana at the historic Cara Lodge in Georgetown.

Hoatzins at Mahaica and the Rufous Crab Hawk
On Wednesday we headed east towards the Mahaica River in order to look for Hoatzins! Leaving
at 4:30 we enjoyed a beautiful sunrise on the drive and spotted several new birds from the car,
including Savannah Hawk, Carib Grackle, Red-breasted Meadowlark and even two flyover
Maguari Storks. As soon as we arrived we were greeted by two gorgeous Red-capped
Cardinals as we boarded our boat. Just a few minutes in we encountered the first pair of
Hoatzins. These archaic birds that could have come straight out of Jurassic Park are Guyana’s
national bird and are always such a delight to watch graze the riparian vegetation. They were
joined by Green-tailed Jacamars and eventually the monotypic Black-capped Donacobius
made an appearance. On the drive back to Georgetown we made several stops and had a
fantastic close encounter of a hunting Long-winged Harrier. A stop at a new location yielded
great views of the range restricted Rufous Crab Hawk and a bright Scarlet Ibis. 

In the afternoon we made a short stop at the Georgetown National Park to have an up close and
personal experience with the Manatees, before heading to the Botanical Gardens where we got
the very important Blood-colored Woodpecker for Bill.

The amazing Kaieteur Falls and a stunning Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock
After a good night sleep we got picked up from our Hotel to start our adventure of the interior of
the country. On the way we made a stop by the seawall at Ogle Mudflats. The tide was low and
we had a wonderful time scanning the flats for shore birds and enjoying many Scarlet Ibis going
along their business. Then it was time to head to Ogle airport. The flight was about an hour late as
usual, but that still gave us more time on the ground than last year. On the flight we spotted a very
high flying King Vulture half way to Kaieteur. As usual we arrived during the hot time of the day,
but we still managed to get good looks at the Rufous-crowned Elaenia. The views of the falls
were simply spectacular! The water level was rather high and we enjoyed watching the rainbow in
its mist while two very cooperative Cliff Flycatcher gave us company. We also got to see the
endemic Golden Rocket Frogs before we had to tear ourselves away from the stunning
landscape in order to search for the one big target of the day. The Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock!

With only about 40 minutes to spare we entered the forest towards their lek. Even though it was
extremely hot Francine, the ranger who accompanied us, spotted a bright male off to one side.
We got to scope and enjoy that marvelous creature for the remainder of our available time. When
we returned, the pilot was ready to go and we flew on to Iwokrama. When we arrived at the lodge
we were overwhelmed with new species and even encountered rarities like Rose-breasted Chat
and got to see perched Caica Parrots which are usually only seen as brief flybys. What a day!

Boating on the Essequibo river and Turtle Mountain
We were up early, before first light. On our way to get some hot coffee, we heard a Spectacled
Owl calling from deep within the forest. The air was still cool, and we enjoyed our coffee as dawn
slowly broke over the Essequibo River.
Once it was light enough, we made our way to the boat landing and boarded our vessel. Just as
we set off down the river, a pair of Red-and-green Macaws flew overhead, followed by several
flocks of Orange-winged Amazons.

On the way to Turtle Mountain, we spotted several Bat Falcons, Scaled Pigeons, sunning Great
Yellow-headed Vultures, and even a Pompadour Cotinga. But the biggest highlight came with
fantastic sightings of a Black-chinned Antbird and an exceptionally cooperative Silvered
Antbird—just the beginning of the many antbirds, antwrens, and antshrikes we would enjoy
throughout the day.

During the hike towards Turtle Mountain, we continued to clean up on countless antwrens,
antshrikes, and antbirds, with everyone getting wonderful looks at nearly every one of them.
Other highlights included superb views of a Yellow-throated Woodpecker, Screaming Piha,
Great Jacamar, and a stunning Ferruginous-backed Antbird.
We returned to the lodge for a well-earned siesta during the heat of the day. Later, once the
temperature cooled, we set out in search of the elusive Capuchinbird. After an intensive search,
we finally heard their strange, cow-like calls and managed to glimpse one before it melted back
into the forest. As a bonus, a Spix’s Guan passed overhead, giving us excellent views.
After dinner, we tried for some owls—hearing a few call responses, but none came close enough
for a look. Still, we couldn’t have asked for a better day!

Capuchinbirds and Manakin madness
We enjoyed a cup of coffee as the day began to break. Alex headed off into the forest to check if
any Capuchinbirds were around that morning, while we birded around the clearing, getting our
first looks at Black Nunbirds and Black Curassows.

Before long, Alex came running back, waving for us to follow. We hurried into the forest, hoping
this would finally be our chance to see the elusive Capuchinbird. Even before reaching the lek, we
could already hear their haunting calls echoing through the trees. Unfortunately, as we arrived,
several birds took off, giving us only brief glimpses. We waited patiently, scouting around for over
an hour—when suddenly, one perched out in the open on a bare branch right in front of us! Within
seconds, everyone had first, second, and third views through the scope of this fantastic bird. High
fives all around!

Back at the clearing, a Blue-headed Parrot made a quick appearance just before breakfast.
After breakfast, we set off toward Atta Lodge, picking up several great species along the way—
the most notable being a perched pair of Scarlet Macaws and a majestic King Vulture. We
stopped at a patch of white-sand forest, where despite the midday heat, we cleaned up on
manakins and other white-sand specialists. We had excellent looks at Black, Golden-headed,
White-crowned, and Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakins. Just as we were about to leave, a
Bronzy Jacamar began calling right in front of us, soon joined by its mate on the same branch,
giving us spectacular views.
We arrived at Atta in time for lunch and immediately began adding new species to the trip list.
Even during siesta time, the group was repeatedly summoned as new birds appeared around the
lodge.

At 3:30 we began our official afternoon walk, adding Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Guianan
Tyrannulet, Tiny Tyrant-Manakin, Bay-headed Tanager, and plenty of Scarlet Macaws. As dusk
settled, a Short-tailed Nighthawk glided overhead, and upon returning to the lodge, two Whitewinged
Potoos sang softly toward the setting moon—a perfect end to another unforgettable day
in the Guianan rainforest.

The Iwokrama Canopy walk and lots of regional endemics
Three Black Curassows joined us for our 5:15 a.m. breakfast in the clearing—an unforgettable
way to start the day. With coffee, fried plantain, and even a slice of toast with Marmite in hand, we
enjoyed our first birds before setting off toward the Canopy Walkway.

Soon after arriving, Carlon managed to call in an Amazonian Pygmy-Owl, which responded and
eventually showed beautifully. As often happens, the owl’s presence drew in a mixed flock, giving
us close views of Purple Honeycreeper, Blue Dacnis, Bay-headed Tanager, Guianan Tyrannulet,
and a particularly cooperative pair of Fulvous-crested Tanagers.
Other highlights from the canopy included Guianan Trogon, Black-faced Hawk, both Green and
Black Aracaris, Golden-collared Woodpecker, excellent looks at the delightful Short-tailed
Pygmy-Tyrant, and both large toucans — Channel-billed and White-throated Toucan.

On the loop trail below, we added a splendid male Amazonian Black-throated Trogon and a pair
of Grey Antwrens before returning to the lodge for lunch. Our siesta, however, was short-lived —
“Trogon madness” broke out at 14:30 when three species began calling simultaneously, including
the final one we needed to complete the full local set!

In the afternoon, we began with a lovely pair of Paradise Jacamars, then birded north along the
main road, adding Yellow-backed Tanager and Dusky Purpletuft. At the White-sand Forest, we
enjoyed a memorable encounter with Olivaceous Schiffornis, shortly after four Black Caracaras
passed overhead.

As dusk settled, we searched for Black-banded Owl, which offered only a fleeting glimpse before
melting back into the darkness. Overhead, two Short-tailed Nighthawks swooped repeatedly, their
distinctive calls echoing through the night. On the drive back, a final surprise awaited us — a
Blackish Nightjar perched along a quarry, its eye-shine giving it away. Everyone enjoyed
extended scope views of this special nightbird to close another fantastic day at Atta Lodge.

Atta fun and Blue-backed Tanagers
Our second full day at Atta began with a return visit to the Canopy Walkway. Early activity was
rewarding, highlighted by fine views of a female Pompadour Cotinga and a fantastic close
encounter with a Great Jacamar. The biggest surprise of the morning, however, was a Fulvous
Shrike-Tanager—a species never before recorded on this tour!

Later, we explored the forest trails, where birding was simply outstanding. We enjoyed superb
views of several typically elusive species such as Long-winged Antwren and all of the possible
Antshrikes, including the regional endemic Black-throated Antshrike. Other excellent sightings
included the regional endemics Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper, Waved Woodpecker, and
Chestnut Woodpecker.

By 10:00 a.m. the temperature had climbed and activity subsided. But, right on cue at 14:30, a
pair of Guianan Toucanets appeared in a fruiting tree beside the clearing, providing wonderful
scope views. Just before we set out for our afternoon excursion, a female Spangled Cotinga also
made a brief but much-appreciated appearance.

In the afternoon we headed south to check another fruiting tree that had been reported active—
and it certainly delivered! We had a terrific time watching over a dozen Blue-headed Parrots,
Channel-billed Toucans, Marail Guan, Spix’s Guan, and Black-spotted Barbets feeding
energetically, while Red-throated Caracaras and Green Oropendolas added their noisy
presence to the scene.

The outstanding highlight of the afternoon came when three Blue-backed Tanagers—a very rare
and range-restricted species—appeared and remained in view through the scope for several
minutes. As daylight faded, a pair of Red-fan Parrots perched in a nearby tree, giving us
wonderful, extended looks at one of the most sought-after birds of the trip. On the drive back to
the lodge, Delon demonstrated his whistling skills and managed to call in two White-winged
Potoos, a perfect finale to another superb day in the Iwokrama national park.

Cream-colored Woodpeckers, the journey to Surama and Cotingas
This morning we spent our last few hours at Atta Rainforest Lodge, and despite limited time, we
managed an impressive number of new species with excellent views. Over breakfast, we were
treated to a pair of Red-necked Woodpeckers and a female Ringed Woodpecker, quickly
followed by a stunning male Pompadour Cotinga perched in perfect light atop a canopy tree.
After breakfast, we birded along the access road, following the calls of Red-and-Black Grosbeak
and Guianan Red Cotinga, though both remained unseen. Midway down the road, we
encountered several Cream-colored Woodpeckers, a highly desired species for many in the
group. The big surprise of the morning was a Musician Wren singing nearby, though the bird
itself stayed out of sight and on the “heard only” list.

By 8:30 a.m. we packed up the vehicle and bid farewell to Atta. Not long into the drive, a Jabiru
glided slowly over the road, providing a memorable sighting. We made a stop at the Guianan
Cock-of-the-Rock lek on our way to Surama, where both a male and female were seen, while two
Great Jacamars chased each other overhead. On the return to the road, we added a Slatycapped
Shrike-Vireo, seen briefly but well, before continuing south toward Surama. Upon arrival,
we were greeted by Neil, and plans were made for the afternoon outing.

After our siesta, Neil spotted a distant Cotinga—barely visible even through the scope—but as we
were heading in that direction anyway, we drove up toward the forest for a closer look. Once on
site, the mystery bird revealed itself as a male Spangled Cotinga, perched up high in the
afternoon light. Moments later, several Pompadour Cotingas joined him in the same scope view,
including another brilliant male.

Other highlights of the afternoon included fantastic looks at a male White-browed Antbird, and
several additions to our trip list such as Yellow-throated Flycatcher, various Elaenias, and
Lesser Nighthawk.

We ended the day on the roof of the lodge, enjoying the sunset with a cold Banks in hand while
Spix’s Guans, Common Pauraques, and a Tropical Screech-Owl provided the soundtrack to a
perfect tropical evening.

Oh Harpy! An adventure down the Burro Burro river
Today was the big day for adventure! Our plan was to journey down the Burro Burro River to visit
a Harpy Eagle nest site. The nest had been active the previous year, so our chances of finding a
bird were uncertain. A report from a month earlier mentioned hearing a Harpy in the distance,
suggesting that the young might still be receiving care from the adults. Since these eagles often
remain near the nest for up to two years, we decided the effort was well worth it. And with
possibilities for other wildlife—perhaps a Capped Heron or Green Ibis, both still missing from our
list—we set off with high hopes.

The morning began with a short drive, followed by a 50-minute hike through beautiful forest to the
boat landing. Along the way, a lively mixed flock provided excellent birding, with highlights
including Coraya Wren, White-browed Antbird, Dusky Antbird, and superb views of a muchwanted
Pectoral Sparrow.

Once at the river, Neil and our trusted captain readied the boat, and we began our descent
downstream. It wasn’t long before we were rewarded—within minutes, we encountered both
Capped Heron and Green Ibis, and soon after, a magnificent Sunbittern. Kingfishers were
abundant, offering countless photo opportunities, while White-banded Swallows skimmed
gracefully over the water. In one side, a strikingly beautiful snake, a Wagler’s Sipo was spotted on
the bank of the river.

Wildlife encounters continued throughout the journey. Midway down the river, a Capybara
exploded into the water with a mighty splash, followed soon after by a Giant River Otter, which
surfaced briefly and gave us a perfect “otter grin” before disappearing again.
After two and a half hours, we reached the towering Ceiba Tree that holds the Harpy’s nest just
after spotting two White Hawks flying over the nearby ridge. As expected, it appeared empty at
first. While scanning the area, we noticed a Black Hawk-Eagle soaring high above. Then,
suddenly, the unmistakable call of a young Harpy Eagle rang out from the forest right in front of
us—a heart-stopping, unforgettable moment!

Within seconds, Neil had the bird in sight: the immature Harpy Eagle, about a year and a half old,
perched on a branch near the nest. We watched in awe as it flew over to the bigger tree, calling
and begging occasionally. Twice, distant Howler Monkeys erupted into loud roars—almost
certainly reacting to one of the adult Harpies hunting nearby. Watching this apex predator after
such an adventurous ride was a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Eventually, we tore ourselves away and began the long return upstream. By now, the sun was
fierce, and we were grateful to reach the lodge by mid-afternoon. After a well-deserved rest, we
gathered on the lodge rooftop for a cold beer, while listening to the calls of Cinereous, Great,
Little, Red-footed, and Variegated Tinamous echoing through the dusk. What a day!

The haunting call of the Rufous-winged Ground-Cuckoo and arrival to the Rupununi
This afternoon was mostly set aside for travel, but before heading south, we wanted to give a few
tougher targets one last try—chief among them the Rufous-winged Ground-Cuckoo, one of only
five species of these elusive, near-mythical birds found in America.

On the way to the site where we hoped to encounter one, we made a short stop that produced
several new trip birds, including the long-awaited Guianan Woodcreeper. Once deep inside the
forest, anticipation ran high. Then, suddenly, the haunting, resonant call of a Rufous-winged
Ground-Cuckoo echoed through the understory. We barely to breathe, as the bird slowly
approached, calling repeatedly. After 25 suspenseful minutes, it finally appeared in a small gap in
the foliage. The scope was swiftly adjusted, and everyone managed to glimpse its head and bill
before it disappeared into the forest shadows. A truly unforgettable moment!

Still buzzing with excitement, we visited two nearby Potoo roosts, where we enjoyed close,
extended views of both Long-tailed Potoo and the wonderfully camouflaged Great Potoo.
Back at the lodge, we enjoyed lunch and said our farewells to the village of Surama and the
surrounding lush rainforest. Our next destination lay to the south: the vast Rupununi Savanna,
homeland of the Wapishana and Makushi people.

The three-hour drive across the savanna was punctuated by brief birding stops. We admired
several Jabirus striding through the wetlands and were thrilled to find two elegant Azure
Gallinules. As we continued, we re-entered Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture territory and took time
to appreciate these striking birds perched nearby, their colorful bare heads glowing in the
afternoon light.

We arrived at Manari Ranch in the late afternoon, greeted by a gentle breeze sweeping over the
open grasslands. Birding didn’t stop there—while some attempted to shower, new birds kept
being called out every few minutes, leading to comical scenes of half-dressed birders dashing
outside with binoculars in hand! By nightfall, we had logged the local “garden birds,” enjoyed a
delicious dinner, and settled in for a well-earned rest beneath the vast Rupununi sky.

The giant of the savanna, and golden jewels of Karasabai
We were up a little earlier than usual this morning. At 4:45 a.m., Jeremy arrived to pick us up, and
we set off northward in two vehicles. Our destination: the hills surrounding the Makushi village of
Karasabai. And there was a very good reason to make the 2.5-hour journey—the dazzling Sun
Parakeet!

Because of their intense beauty, these parakeets have been heavily poached in the past, and
today only about one to two thousand individuals survive within a very small range. The species’
rarity made our anticipation even greater as we drove through the open Rupununi Savanna in the
soft light of dawn.

About halfway to Karasabai, we had one of those unforgettable moments every naturalist dreams
of. Jeremy suddenly stopped the vehicle and motioned for us to look—an enormous Giant
Anteater was ambling through the savanna! We quickly repositioned the vehicles, taking a route
that placed us downwind so as not to alert the animal. From a respectful distance, we watched in
awe as this remarkable creature went about its morning routine, its long snout sweeping the
ground with slow, deliberate grace. It was a breathtaking encounter with one of South America’s
most iconic mammals.

Eventually, it was time to move on so as not to miss our parakeet window. Upon arrival, we
enjoyed a wonderful field breakfast surrounded by the calls of new birds, including a surprise
Copper-tailed Hummingbird, a first for the tour.

Moments later, as we drove a short distance farther, three bright orange flashes appeared ahead.
We stopped abruptly, piled out of the cars—and there they were! Three magnificent Sun
Parakeets, glowing against the green hillsides. We watched them at length, soaking in every
detail of their radiant plumage.

After the euphoria of that sighting, we continued down a nearby trail and encountered a very
cooperative White-bellied Antbird, a striking Southern White-fringed Antwren, and two
beautiful Pale-legged Horneros. We then headed to the village of Karasabai, where we were
warmly welcomed for lunch at the home of our trusted “Parakeet Whisperer.”

The drive back across the savanna brought yet more rewards. We stopped at several spots to
search for the tiny Bearded Tachuri and the elusive Crested Doradito, both of which gave us
excellent views after an adventurous off-road detour with the Brazilian border just in sight.
What a wonderful day in such a dramatically different landscape—from tropical rainforest to wideopen
grasslands, from the fiery Sun Parakeet to the gentle Giant Anteater. We happily returned to
Manari Ranch, ready for the next adventure!

Sunrise over the Rupununi and fiery red rarities of the Kanuku mountains
After a very early 3:30 a.m. coffee, we set off eastward in search of our next major target—the
critically endangered Red Siskin. As we drove through the darkness, the first light of dawn began
to spread across the Rupununi Savanna, painting the landscape in yellow, purple and pink. It was
one of those mornings that perfectly captures the beauty of Guyana’s open country.

By the time we arrived at the Siskin site, the sun had just risen over the hills. A team of local park
rangers and guides was already waiting for us, eager to help us find their precious bird. We began
scanning the surrounding trees with great anticipation. For a while, the birds remained elusive—
calling nearby but keeping hidden behind dense vegetation. Finally, patience paid off when an
immature male Red Siskin perched briefly on an open tangle, giving everyone a scope view.

That sighting was our cue for breakfast. We unpacked our delicious dry bake and coffee, joking
that the moment we were distracted, the birds would surely show—and indeed, they did! Just as
everyone was halfway through breakfast, three stunning adult male Red Siskins appeared atop a
tree across the clearing, their blazing orange-red plumage glowing brilliantly in the morning light. It
was a wonderful and rewarding sighting of one of South America’s most endangered birds.

After several more views, we continued exploring the area, stopping along the way for a Bluebacked
Manakin and a cooperative Rusty-winged Antwren, both of which performed
beautifully. Later in the morning, we made a determined effort to locate some Sharp-tailed Ibis,
but despite our best attempts, they remained out of sight.

Following a hearty lunch in the friendly village of Sand Creek, we began our journey back toward
Lethem. A stop at a Moriche growth initially didn’t provide our desired target, but on a second
patch we were successful even though it was brutally hot! A very special Furnariid, the Pointtailed
Palmcreeper being the bird in question. He flew in just as we were busy admiring a Whitethroated
Kingbird which was also new for most of the group. Jeremy pulled out some ice cold
towels and we couldn’t have been happier, looking like idiots wearing them on our heads. 

We returned to Manari Ranch, and spend the rest of the day relaxing and swimming at the local
watering hole while a pair of Red-bellied Macaws watched from their nest in the palm tree, a
fittingly peaceful end to another incredible day of birding in southern Guyana.

The two infamous specialties of the Ireng River and a farewell to magical Guyana
Today was dedicated to tracking down two very special and highly range-restricted species—the
Rio Branco Antbird, confined to the riparian forests along the Rio Branco and a narrow stretch of
the Ireng River, and the even more localized Hoary-throated Spinetail, whose distribution is
smaller still. On the drive toward the river, we kept an eye out for open-country specialties, hoping
to pick up a few bonuses along the way. Sure enough, a Yellowish Pipit was spotted performing
its characteristic display flight, and moments later we were treated to fantastic views of an
Aplomado Falcon during our field breakfast—an exciting start to the day!

Entering the gallery forest along the Ireng, we began working our way slowly through the dense
tangles and vine-laced understory. It was tough going, but spirits were high. After considerable
effort searching for the Spinetail without success, a not so distant call behind us caught our
attention—it was the Rio Branco Antbird! Moments later, a male appeared and gave us
exceptional views as he circled curiously around the group before vanishing back into the tangles.
It was a thrilling and well-earned sighting of one of Guyana’s rarest birds.

The Hoary-throated Spinetail, however, lived up to its reputation as being much more difficult. We
tried repeatedly at several promising spots, but the midday heat soon became punishing. A mixed
flock lifted our spirits, offering fine views of a Rufous-tailed Jacamar and several other new
species. Eventually, exhausted and sunbaked, we decided to call it a day and began heading
back.

That’s when Neil, never one to give up, suggested one last stop. The idea of stepping out into the
blazing sun again didn’t appeal to anyone—but less than a minute after arriving, Neil’s excited
signal from up ahead had us scrambling out of the vehicles. And there it was—the Hoarythroated
Spinetail! Though it only showed for a few seconds at a time, everyone managed
excellent views of this exquisite and rarely seen bird.

By then, the heat had truly taken its toll, so we crossed over into Brazil for a well-deserved lunch
—a cross-border treat that’s always a crowd favorite. Adding to the fun, we picked up two new
trip birds, including the striking Pearl Kite, a lifer for several in the group.
After lunch, we returned to Manari Ranch one final time to gather our luggage, making one last
stop at Jeremy’s house, where a Saffron Finch served as our farewell from southern Guyana.
From there, we headed to the airport, checked in with time to spare, and soon were airborne,
bound for Georgetown once more.

As the savannas and forests slipped away beneath the plane, it was hard not to reflect on just
how quickly the days had passed. The tour’s beginning in the Georgetown Botanical Gardens now
felt like a distant memory, and yet the time had flown. From the coastal mangroves to the heart of
the Iwokrama Forest, and across the sweeping Rupununi Savanna, we had shared countless
unforgettable experiences, a wonderful group dynamic, and a wealth of remarkable birds.
A truly memorable journey through the wild heart of Guyana—one we’ll all cherish, and hopefully
we’ll meet again someday.

- Roland Rumm, 2025

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