Day 1: The tour begins at 6:30 p.m. with a meeting in the lobby of our hotel in Georgetown, Guyana. Night in Georgetown.

Day 2: We’ll depart before dawn, heading east along the coast to the Mahaica River. We’ll spend a couple hours birding from a small boat along the river, looking in particular for  Guyana’s national bird, the Hoatzin. In addition to Hoatzin, we’ll enjoy a number of other riverside birds, perhaps including Green-tailed Jacamar, Long-winged Harrier, Silvered Antbird, Black-capped Donacobius, Little Cuckoo, and Yellow Oriole. We’ll also have our first chance to search for a few regional specialties, including White-bellied Piculet and Blood-colored Woodpecker. After breakfast at our boat captain’s house, we’ll continue on birding the nearby rice fields and patches of mangroves, looking for various waterbirds and perhaps even the local Rufous Crab Hawk. After an almost full morning here we’ll backtrack toward Georgetown, with at least one stop to check the mangrove-lined coastal mudflats. Our chief target here among the throngs of waders and passing seabirds is the aptly named Scarlet Ibis. The intensity of this bird’s red plumage, especially set against a backdrop of Snowy Egrets and Little Blue Herons, should form an indelible memory of color. Additionally, we should encounter numbers of Snail Kites, Limpkins, and Wattled Jacanas, among others.

After lunch at our hotel and a siesta, we’ll spend the remaining few hours of daylight at the Georgetown Botanical Gardens. This urban park is home to quite an impressive variety of birds, including several species of parrot (Festive, Orange-winged, Yellow-crowned), Red-shouldered Macaw, Blood-colored Woodpecker, White-bellied Piculet, Gray Kingbird, Violaceous Euphonia, Wing-barred Seedeater, and much more. Night in Georgetown.

Day 3: After breakfast, we’ll transfer to the nearby airport at Ogle for our charter flight to the interior. We’ll fly past the Demerara and Potaro Rivers and over hundreds of miles of unbroken tropical rainforest to land at Kaieteur, the world’s largest single-drop waterfall (by volume) and also spectacularly tall at 741 feet. This amazing waterfall is one of the scenic highlights of the tour; we’ll have ample opportunity to appreciate its grandeur from our plane and from the ground. We’ll have a packed lunch at Kaieteur and explore the trails around the falls, looking for Guianan Cock-of-the-rock in the forest and perhaps even Orange-breasted Falcon or White-tipped Swift cruising around the spectacular cliffs.

We’ll then continue to make the journey toward Iwokrama River Lodge, flying to a small airstrip at Fairview and driving the short distance to our lodge. After some time to settle into our rooms at Iwokrama, we’ll enjoy some evening birding on nearby trails (perhaps including the bizarre Capuchinbird!), before having dinner overlooking the pristine rainforest and river. Night at Iwokrama River Lodge.

Day 4: The Iwokrama Rainforest is a vast wilderness of one million acres, established in 1996 as the Iwokrama International Centre for Rainforest Conservation and Development and located in one of the last four untouched tropical forests of the world, the Guiana Shield of northeastern South America. This is a protected area with a difference: the full involvement of people. Iwokrama is exceptional among conservation organizations because it joins with local people in every aspect of its work, from research to business, ensuring local economic and social benefits from forest use and conservation. On our first morning we’ll bird along the trail to Turtle Mountain. This two-mile-long trail winds up to about 950 feet and, although steep in places, has handrails and steps to make the passage manageable. The open understory of the lower trail makes it easy to watch mixed-species flocks, and here we’ll seek out birds such as Fasciated, Cinereous, Dusky-throated, and Amazonian Antshrikes, Brown-bellied Stipplethroat, Black-chinned and Common Scale-backed Antbirds, Wedge-billed and Buff-throated Woodcreepers, and if we’re very lucky, maybe even Red-and-black Grosbeak or Yellow-billed Jacamar! We’ll spend some time at a small clearing along the trail, looking for Black Nunbirds and Guianan Trogons along the edge. Once the trail starts climbing, the character of the forest rapidly changes. Mixed-species flocks are regular in the canopy along the upper part of the trail, where the shorter trees allow for slightly easier viewing. Here we might encounter birds such as Red-legged, Green, and Purple Honeycreepers or Spotted, Paradise, Bay-headed, and Opal-rumped Tanagers. 

In the afternoon we’ll again take a boat down the Essequibo River, where we might see Anhingas, Ospreys, and Green Ibis along the riverbanks, Black-collared Swallows cavorting over the rocks and rapids, and parrots (possibly including Dusky and Red-fan) fly overhead. We might take another walk on a trail or along the road and search for any species we’ve missed so far. Night at Iwokrama River Lodge.

Day 5: We’ll have some time this morning to explore some other trails around Iwokrama before loading up and continuing over to Atta Lodge. Along the way, of course, we’ll keep our eyes open for roadside flocks, perched raptors, and parrots (and perhaps a few cotingas) or whatever else strikes our interest. Possibilities include Marail and Spix’s Guans, Great Black Hawk, Paradise Jacamar, and Pompadour Cotinga. We’ll make a special stop in an area of white sand forest known as the Mori Scrub, where we hope to encounter the local Black Manakin as well as Rufous-crowned Elaenia, Red-shouldered Tanager, Olivaceous Schiffornis, and Bronzy Jacamar.

Arriving at Atta Lodge for lunch, we’ll then have some time to settle into our rooms and keep an eye out for birds around the lodge clearing (rarely including the rare Crimson Fruitcrow). Our afternoon will likely be spent birding along some trails near the lodge. Night at Atta Rainforest Lodge.

Days 6-7: We have two full days to explore the forest around Atta Lodge. The trails are excellent, and we’ll likely spend some time birding right around the lodge clearing. Another major attraction here is the nearby Iwokrama Canopy Walkway. The 500-foot-long walkway has three platforms, the highest of which is about 100 feet above the ground. These could allow us to get great looks at a range of canopy species, many of which are difficult to see well from the forest floor. We’ll probably spend a couple hours birding from the walkway, where the flocks traveling past could include Paradise Jacamar, Guianan Puffbird, Yellow-throated and Waved Woodpeckers, Todd’s and Spot-tailed Antwrens, Black-tailed Tityra, and Dusky Purpletuft, or we can bird along the jungle trails, where antbird flocks can include White-plumed and Rufous-throated Antbirds, White-flanked and Long-winged Antwrens, and Cinereous and Dusky-throated Antshrikes. Roadside birding nearby could provide us with views of parrots such as Red-fan or Blue-cheeked, along with Rose-breasted Chat or Ringed Woodpecker. At least one evening will be spent on the roadside hoping for a glimpse of the rare White-winged Potoo. Nights at Atta Rainforest Lodge.

Day 8: After a brief morning’s outing around Atta, where we could encounter species such as Pied Puffbird, Rose-breasted Chat, and Amazonian Grosbeak, we’ll start our transfer to Surama Ecolodge. On the way, we may stop at one or more trails for some additional birding time before heading to Surama: Gray-winged Trumpeter, Black Spider Monkey, Guianan Cock-of-the-rock, and Ferruginous-backed Antbird are all possible. If there is an active Harpy Eagle nest along our route, we will make an effort to get into the forest to see this incredible bird.  We’ll then continue on to Surama Ecolodge for lunch. 

On arrival at Surama we’ll receive a welcome from a village councilor and settle into our accommodation. The pleasant community of Surama is set in five square miles of savannah and surrounded by the densely forested Pakaraima foothills. Surama’s inhabitants are mainly from the Macushi tribe and still observe many of the traditional practices of their forebears. Our accommodations will be in benabs (thatched sleeping shelters), and our meals will feature excellent local produce. There is great birding leading to the village and in the surrounding savannah, and we may see Savannah Hawk, Great Potoo, Fork-tailed Palm-swift, and Red-bellied Macaw during the drive to the lodge. For our first afternoon here we’ll likely explore the forest edge and open savannah looking for species such as Black, Crested, and Yellow-headed Caracaras, Scaled Pigeon, Plain-crested and Lesser Elaenias, Cayenne Jay, Green-tailed Jacamar, Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, and Finsch’s Euphonia. As dusk falls, Common Pauraque, White-tailed Nightjar, and Lesser Nighthawks often appear around the lodge grounds. Night at Surama Ecolodge.

Day 9: For our full day at Surama we’ll likely concentrate on the forests around the Burro Burro River. There are several interesting species to be seen here, one of the undoubted specialties of the area being Rufous-winged Ground-Cuckoo. While this species is very tough to find, the nearby forests are certainly among the better places in the Neotropics to look for it –but of course there are no guarantees! Ant swarms are surprisingly regular here and often have attendant antbirds and woodcreepers, including the hard-to-pin-down Rufous-throated Antbird and possibly the even scarcer Red-billed Woodcreeper. More regular possibilities include Great Jacamar, Black-necked and Green Aracaris, Crimson-crested and Red-necked Woodpeckers, Rufous-bellied Antwren, and White-crowned and Golden-headed Manakins. Night at Surama Ecolodge.

Day 10: We’ll have one more full morning of birding at Surama, with an exact plan depending on what birds we haven’t seen yet. After some time to pack up and a nice lunch, we’ll start our transfer to Manari Ranch, which should take around three hours. The transition from the forest to the savannah will be stark: a reminder of how our birding will change, too, for the next several days. We’ll arrive in the heat of the day and have a siesta, followed by some easy birding around the lodge grounds before sunset.

Day 11: Today we’ll watch the sunrise over the savannah as we drive towards the village of Karasabai…with a very special goal in mind! Our primary target today is the stunning Sun Parakeet, a bird so bright and colorful you almost need sunglasses to watch it. If all goes according to plan, we’ll have a picnic breakfast just after dawn while scanning the rolling hills for flocks of parakeets, and depending on our luck, we should have some extra time to search for various other species. Possibilities include Green-tailed Jacamar, White-bellied Piculet, Black-crested Antshrike, Southern White-fringed Antwren, Blue-backed Manakin, Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant, and Burnished-buff Tanager.

This day will require a very early departure (probably around 4:00am) from Manari Ranch; the drive to Karasabai usually takes two to three hours depending on the road conditions. We’ll arrive back at Manari Ranch in the mid-afternoon and will have a couple hours of free time before dinner, in preparation for another very early start the following morning. There will be time for some optional independent birding around the grounds. Night at Manari Ranch.

Day 12: We have another very early start this morning (3:30 am), but don’t worry, we’ll be gently rocked back to sleep (if you so desire) in the back seat of a 4-wheel drive vehicle while riding along dirt roads…this time, heading to the village of Sand Creek to look for the endangered Red Siskin! This stunning bird is highly localized and we’re heading to one of the best places in the world to see it. It might take some patience and effort to find the siskins, but there are plenty of other birds in the surrounding patches of woodland to keep us occupied, including Plain-breasted Ground-Dove, Sooty-capped Hermit, Rusty-winged Antwren, White-bellied Antbird, Amazonian Scrub-Flycatcher, Pale-bellied Tyrant-Manakin, and Plumbeous Seedeater.

After checking in at the village of Sand Creek, where the community has recently taken a keen interest in conversation and ecotourism, we’ll continue our journey to Wichabai Ranch for lunch. Along the way, we’ll be sure to look for open savannah and wetland species like Bearded Tachuri, Pinnated Bittern, and Sharp-tailed Ibis. After a delicious lunch, we’ll work our way back to Manari Ranch in time for dinner. Night at Manari Ranch.

Day 13: Our main birding stop this morning will be at the Ireng River, which holds a few specialties that we won’t see elsewhere on the tour. With any luck, these will include Hoary-throated Spinetail and Rio Branco Antbird. It will be a fairly leisurely day compared to the previous two, with a relaxed lunch at Manari Ranch followed by a transfer to the airport in Lethem for our flight back to Georgetown. After arriving back at the Ogle airport in Georgetown, we’ll transfer to Cara Lodge for our farewell dinner. Night in Georgetown.

Day 14: The tour concludes this morning with a transfer to the airport for international flights home.

2024 Narrative

In Brief:
Endless expanses of undisturbed rainforest, vast tropical savannas, and some incredible bird and other wildlife sightings were memories we’ll take home from this year’s Guyana tour. We were super fortunate that a Harpy Eagle nest with a chick was within travel distance from our lodging at Surama, and we were even luckier that the adult arrived with a freshly caught sloth just as we did after over two hours of adventuresome travel under and over trees across the Burro Burro River. We treasured every minute of the two hours we spent viewing the nest from a safe distance, and so it was no surprise this received the most votes for favorite sighting of the tour. An obliging Guianan Cock-of-the-rock was a fine addition to the marvelous Kaieteur Falls viewing, earning a second-place vote, and just as brilliantly colored Sun Parakeets were amazingly cooperative on our early morning drive to Karasabai area. Additional bird highlights were Hoatzins eating leaves on the banks of the Mahaica River, Jabirus by the road in the middle of the Iwokrama Forest, Green Aracaris in the trees around Atta Lodge, the habituated Black Curassows in the grounds of the same lodge, cooperative Red Siskins coming to a seep, and stunning Pompadour Cotingas at the Iwokrama canopy walkway. Early in the trip we were treated to the friendly (and hungry) West Indian Manatees right in Georgetown, and our moth light and sheet attracted the stunning silkmoth Rothschildia erycina, which lingered into the morning for all to see. A stop for the small (i.e., not more than six feet) Green Anaconda sunning on the main dirt road through the country was absolutely necessary. Finally, our first morning’s drive through the Rupununi savannas yielded the highly sought-after Giant Anteater trundling right next to the road.

In Detail:
Our full day based in Georgetown featured a relaxed boat ride on the Mahaica River where we became thoroughly acquainted with the national bird, the Hoatzin, even watching some eat the leaves of the strange aroid Montrichardia on the river banks. Every Blood-colored Woodpecker we saw was a female, but we’ll take that for such a local specialty that we weren’t going see later in the tour. We got off the boat at one point where a pair of Barred Antshrikes, a Green-throated Mango, and Amazon Kingfisher were highlights. The biggest surprise on the river was a Sungrebe, usually preferring waterways through areas more forested than the open fields where we were. A stop on the way back to the hotel for lunch featured a Rufous Crab Hawk brilliantly whistled in by our garrulous local guide Carlos, and scanning the mudflats finally turned up a couple Scarlet Ibis. Afternoon at the botanical gardens had nonstop activity, including a very cooperative Green-rumped Parrotlet and a pair of roosting Great Horned Owls, one pellet of which contained the jaw bone of a bat.

We had the early morning to bird close to town, but the highlight at National Park Georgetown was the feeding of the West Indian Manatees. Only in Guyana might the locals consider such an amazing sight as humdrum as going to the stables to feed horses. The tides on the mudflats were more favorable than the previous day, and we could have spent hours combing the waders, which included several species of sandpipers and many stunning Scarlet Ibises. A stupidly cooperative Mangrove Rail chased fiddler crabs right below us on the seawall. The middle of our day was taken up with waiting, followed by a scenic plane ride to the stunning Kaieteur Falls, which our pilot cruised by in both directions to give us stunning views. Our birding time was frustratingly rushed, but we tallied some very important sightings here. After nabbing the expected Rufous-crowned Elaenia in the stunted forest by the runway, we ogled the falls while watching Cliff Flycatchers sally below and flocks of White-tipped Swifts at eye level. A pair of Red-and-green Macaws flew over before we stepped into the woods to see if a Guianan Cock-of-the-rock might appear. It was super quiet, but suddenly one of these stunning orange birds was right in front of us. As we were getting photographs of it, a scarce Pelzeln’s Tody-Tyrant started calling, and we ended up with good views of this bird, a lifer for everyone present. We soon made it to our next home at Iwokrama River Lodge, and some took advantage of the last bit of bird activity to check out the river where Black-collared Swallows were darting about.

In the morning of our full day at Iwokrama we boated downriver to a forest trail that might have taken us to the top of a hill. But there were too many birds to be seen along the way, and we eventually made it less than halfway up the slope. From the boat we saw Guianan Streaked-Antwrens, Channel-billed Toucan, and Green Aracari, and right where we got off the boat a Cream-colored Woodpecker appeared amidst a busy mixed flock. We tallied quite a few more birds along the trail including another five species of antwrens before it was time to head back for lunch. In the afternoon we first walked the entrance road where a Painted Tody-Flycatcher held forth in a big tree, and then we walked the road where we added yet two more species of Antwrens. In the late afternoon Alex took us down another trail where Capuchinbird was the target, and we saw at least two birds, hearing another one or two giving their strange mooing call. While waiting for them, we had great views of a stunning Yellow-billed Jacamar. On the way back, we heard a Rufous-capped Antthrush not too far off the trail, and with patience we ended up with great views of this skulker.

We had another early morning of birding at Iwokrama River Lodge, and the first excitement was caused by a pair of Blue-and-yellow Macaws that flew in as we were still having breakfast. Fortunately, they perched for great scope views. Down the entrance road we were lucky to find a tree where some Dusky Parrots found some food, had nice views of a lovely Rufous-bellied Antwren, and found a blooming Isertia tree which proved to be a favorite for Crimson Topaz, of which there were at least two, including a young male. We included time on the drive to our next lodge to make some roadside stops, including unplanned ones, such as for the Black Hawk-Eagle that flew across the road and perched conveniently in a roadside Cecropia tree. By late morning, it was already too hot for much bird activity in the white sand forest, though a pair of Paradise Jacamars were very obliging. We arrived at Atta Lodge in time for lunch, and during the siesta we became acquainted with the pair of Black Curassows that have come to expect leftover handouts. We had many nice birds on our late afternoon walk out to the main road including some very loud, impressive Red-and-green Macaws that flew right over us. White-winged Potoo called back from deep within the forest and not very frequently, so we marked that one as a heard only after much effort.

On our first full morning, we had wanted to get to the canopy walkway at dawn, but a delayed breakfast meant that instead we had time to bird around the fruitful lodge clearing. Without that we might have missed great views of the gorgeous and confiding Black-faced Hawk that was patrolling the forest understory just inside from the lodge clearing. We still had a wonderful time at the canopy platform throughout the cloudy morning, which kept temperatures low and activity high. Highlights included Bay-headed and Spotted Tanagers and three Pompadour Cotingas, while on the walk back we spotted some nice butterflies including the super fancy and atypically patterned hairstreak Thestius pholeus. In the afternoon we hit the forest trails again, this time connecting with two of the region’s specialties: Red-and-black Grosbeak and Guianan Red Cotinga, both requiring some effort to see well but within a very short walk from the lodge. The White-winged Potoo which we had tried so hard to see the night before at a known perch down the road instead gave us a good showing right on the lodge grounds, as did a Short-tailed Nighthawk.

Our second dawn in the Atta Lodge clearing before, during, and after breakfast was different and just as exciting. We got great views of White-throated Toucan and then suddenly had to scramble when a group of Red-fan Parrots flew in. Amazingly, they perched where we could get the scope on them, and these were the only views we had of this special parrot on the tour. We then spent much of the morning in the special habitats of the nutrient-poor soils of the white sand patches. A very cooperative Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin was the first target, and then we spent quite a bit of time trying to find responsive Black Manakins. We eventually had great looks, but on the way found a pair of Southern White-fringed Antwrens, a very reactive Olivaceous Schiffornis, and a young male Guianan Red-Cotinga. Just before leaving the forest trail, we came across a very handsome Chestnut Woodpecker in the short forest. Back near the lodge in taller forest, we found a pair of cooperative Amazonian Black-throated Trogons right next to the trail. We did more trails in the afternoon, finding the very attractive Ferruginous-backed Antbird, and back at the lodge clearing connected with some bizarrely noisy Red-throated Caracaras.

On our last morning at Atta Lodge we bypassed the need to wait for an early breakfast by making a quick run to the canopy walkway before any of the staff were even awake. Being able to witness the rainforest awaken from such a perch was a treat, and we were justly rewarded: an incredibly rare dark morph Crested Eagle had made exactly the same plans, and though it was probably about a mile away, we had excellent optics, cameras, and superb digiscoping skills on our side to document this thrilling encounter. On the walk back to breakfast we retraced our steps past the Ferruginous-backed Antbird territory and got further views of this ornately patterned skulker. We departed for our next lodge with plans for a stop on a trail where Guianan Cock-of-the-rock was a possibility. We made it to the lekking area to find it amazingly quiet, but in our attempt to give them a chance we brought in a pair of Amazonian Motmots instead. The two species of bats roosting under the giant boulders were also a treat, though we were able to identify them only to genus. We arrived at Surama Lodge in time to witness a wonderful afternoon downpour, the first really cooling-off we experienced during these otherwise hot and dry days. Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch came out singing behind our rooms before we set off on an afternoon hike to find a special bird. Our local Guide Laurindo first directed our attention to a roosting Lesser Nighthawk in a small tree, and then Cayenne Jays appeared in some trees a little further on. Finally arriving at our destination, it took Laurindo just a few minutes to locate our target, a roosting Great Potoo; he had to rush us there before it took off to forage at dusk. With dusk falling as we walked back, Lesser Nighthawks swooped across the road in front of us, calling, and we had decent views of White-tailed Nightjars in the savannah.

Our one full day at Surama was to be dedicated to the quest for Harpy Eagle, as we had learned of an active nest with a dependent chick in the weeks leading up to the tour. Unfortunately, this was the nest located several miles down the Burro Burro River, not the one a short drive and a easy hike away, which has been inactive for a few years. It took us fully 4 ½ hours of travel time to get there, but the timing couldn’t have been more perfect. We weren’t even a day late, as birders the previous day spent four hours at the nest and only ever saw the chick. Almost as exciting was a mixed flock by the nest in which we spotted at least three Blue-backed Tanagers, a very uncommon bird of the canopy that we had thought we missed. The boat ride was eventful for the obstacles in the way, but we also saw some great birds from the boat – King Vulture, Sungrebe, and the ever cheerful White-banded Swallow kept us company. The hike between the lodge and the river was good too, bringing us good views of Black Nunbird and glimpses of two Gray-winged Trumpeters on the way back.

We had the first half of the day to bird the area near Surama, and we started with an attempt for a not-very-recently reported Zigzag Heron close to the village. Alas, the pond was already too dry, but the remaining bit of water was just enough for a spritely American Pygmy-Kingfisher. We also had great views of a cooperative White-browed Antbird here. After breakfast we headed to the forest, but some fruiting trees in the savanna close to the start of the forest had a bonanza of cotingas. Several stunning Spangled Cotingas were the stars, but we also had one amazing Purple-breasted Cotinga and a Pompadour Cotinga in the same trees. Not nearly as colorful but more interesting from a biogeographical perspective was a Gray-cheeked Thrush, a bird only rarely reported from Guyana. One we got into the forest, a juvenile Black-faced Hawk had us scratching our heads a bit (surprisingly similar to a White Hawk), while Rufous-bellied Antwren and Golden-headed Manakin were some of the understory gems we tallied before turning back for lunch. We then worked our way towards Manari Ranch for the final leg of the tour, but some necessary stops were on order. Ginep Landing was a good place to stretch, also giving us a scarce Flavescent Warbler and a pair of adorable Slate-headed Tody-Flycatchers. A small Green Anaconda stretched out on the margin of the highway was definitely worth a stop, and once we got to Manari Ranch our first Orange-backed Troupial was a highlight.

One day based at Manari Ranch was dedicated to finding Sun Parakeets. We packed into two 4x4 vehicles just before dawn and headed north, following the border with Brazil to Karasabai. On the way we flushed many bevies of Crested Bobwhite and of course had to stop for the Giant Anteater poking along right near the highway. After picking up a local guide at the edge of town, we continued north into the foothills, and then just stopped along the roadside. Here he said we should wait and look for parakeets that might fly in. Or not. We were happily distracted by plenty of bird activity, including some very loud and colorful Red-and-green Macaws. But before we could really get antsy, we heard the Sun Parakeets, and nine of these glowing yellow, orange, and green beauties appeared from the south and landed in some trees just a hundred meters down the road. Not only did they stay for us to see them there, every time they flew they didn’t go far and only landed in more and more obvious perches. We spent close to an hour with the birds before we finally decided to start making our way back south. We stopped at a bridge where Pale-legged Hornero was a nice addition to the list, then also paused at a big wetland, finding that Common Gallinule was the rarity among the dozens of Purple Gallinules. We dipped on Bearded Tachuri at one grassland swale only to find a more exciting pair of Crested Doraditos instead. Lunch was an interesting detour: no border check, no visas, nothing – we just drove into Brazil to a country restaurant by a lake where the buffet was quite unlike any food in Guyana (and delicious). A Maguari Stork was in a puddle next to the road not far from the entrance, several Red-shouldered Macaws were in the mango tree over the parking lot, and a marsh on the property revealed three Azure Gallinules.

Our second day based at Manari Ranch found us departing shortly after 3:30 a.m., and including a couple very brief stops for pre-dawn Burrowing Owl and Least Nighthawks right along the road, it took us almost exactly the planned 3 hours to arrive at the famous drip where one hopes to see Red Siskin. We passed one local scout who said a group of them had just flown away. Another scout at the parking spot said the same. We then took off by foot through the grass to then learn that some had just been there and flew off as well. Back to the car for our picnic breakfast, things weren’t looking good, especially when we discovered that most of the coffee in the thermos had leaked out in the car. But we didn’t have to wait long, and a handful of siskins flew into the trees on the nearby hillside. Whew! Over the next hour we enjoyed small groups of these rare red sprites coming and going. Saturated with red finches, we had plenty of time bird our way towards lunch. One stop was a dense riparian area which produced a pair of cheeky Spotted Puffbirds and a very furtive Blue-backed Manakin. We then checked several shallow ponds in the savanna-like woodland, finally finding a pair of the scarce Sharp-tailed Ibis. Lunch at Wichabai Ranch was amazing, and some of us especially enjoyed feeding the baby capybaras. We made a successful stop in another swale which did have a pair of Bearded Tachuris, their mouths wide open in the hot afternoon sun. On the way back to Manari Ranch we made stops in the savanna for Red-breasted Meadowlark and Nacunda Nighthawk (active in the heat of the afternoon), and one last stop at a riparian area magically produced a Point-tailed Palmcreeper.

Even with our flight back to Georgetown moved up to the early afternoon, we had plenty of time for adding several more species to our already burgeoning list. It did take a bit of time and patience, but we were successful in finding both Rio Bronco Antbird and Hoary-throated Spinetail, two of the most range-restricted species here, occurring only in this part of Guyana and in Brazil’s adjacent state of Roraima. A Spot-breasted Woodpecker was a good addition down in the riparian forest as well. We raised a couple of busy mobs seeing a lovely female Black-crested Antshrike and a Blackpoll Warbler on its winter grounds. Birding the more open grassy areas and ponds near the river we connect with a gorgeous Maguari Stork and two Yellowish Pipits. Happily, the rest of our travel time including the flight back to Georgetown, and the drive back to Cara Lodge passed uneventfully. The final species count of 417 will be hard to beat in future years.

- Rich Hoyer, 2024

Back to Narratives