Guatemala

Day 1: Participants will be met on arrival in Guatemala City for transfer to our hotel in Antigua, often described as the most beautiful city in all of Central America. Our first introductory meeting will be at dinner at our hotel, followed by a night in Antigua.

Day 2: We’ll load up early and make the hour-long drive to Finca El Zapote, on the south slopes of Volcán de Fuego. Here, we’ll have a wonderful breakfast in the garden with our first Guatemalan birds surrounding us: Orange-fronted and Pacific Parakeets might be zipping around, Rufous-backed Wrens should be bouncing conspicuously through the trees, Turquoise-browed Motmot could perch conspicuously, and flocks of migrant warblers will mingle with Yellow-winged Tanagers and Red-legged Honeycreepers. We’ll have the full morning to explore the finca, paying special attention to the understory for Tody Motmot, Bushy-crested Jay, and whatever else might catch our eye. After lunch, we’ll continue driving towards Los Tarrales, our exciting birding destination for the next few days.

Days 3-4: We’ll have two full days to explore Los Tarrales, a private nature reserve that encompasses a wide elevation range and lots of special birds. We’ll try to cover as much habitat as possible, exploring the trails around the lodge for lower-elevation species like White-bellied Chachalaca, Turquoise-browed Motmot, Orange-fronted, Orange-chinned, and Pacific Parakeets, Long-billed Starthroat, Barred Antshrike, Yellow-olive Flatbill, Masked Tityra, Long-tailed Manakin, and White-winged Tanager. Tody Motmot is a distinct possibility, although it’s gotten more difficult to see here in recent years. The higher elevations of Los Tarrales are often productive for some of the hardest specialties of the region, including Azure-rumped Tanager, Bar-winged Oriole, and Emerald-chinned Hummingbird. Nights at Los Tarrales.

Day 5: We’ll make an early departure from Los Tarrales and drive to the south shore of Lake Atitlan, where we’ll have a full morning to look for various specialties. There are multiple birding options here, and we’ll decide on an exact plan based on what we’ve already seen at Los Tarrales. We’ll likely take a hike on a narrow forest trail that has produced goodies like Gray-collared Becard, Bar-winged Oriole, Blue-and-white Mockingbird, and Blue-crowned Chlorophonia in the past. We’ll then take a boat across Lake Atitlán (a wonderful experience!) and have lunch at a lakeside hotel near Panajachel, before a three- to five-hour drive to the town of San Marcos. Night in San Marcos.

Day 6: We have a full day to explore the area around San Marcos. Our primary target in the morning will be one of the jewels of the birding world: Resplendent Quetzal. With some luck, we hope to catch a glimpse of the extraordinary male with his elongated uppertail coverts. The northern populations are vocally, visually, and genetically distinct from the birds in Costa Rica and Panama, a potential split that adds intrigue to an already intriguing bird! After lunch at a local house (with Rufous and Violet Sabrewings!), we’ll have a short break back at our hotel and continue our afternoon birding at slightly higher elevations. Here, we hope to run across birds like Pink-headed Warbler, White-naped Brushfinch, and perhaps Black Thrush. Night in San Marcos.

Day 7: We have another morning to explore San Marcos before heading further west towards Sibinal. This exciting area is relatively little-birded and we’re sure to have a fun morning of birding, with possibilities including Azure-rumped Tanager, Green-throated Mountain-gem, Northern Emerald-Toucanet, Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, Brown-capped Vireo, Flame-colored Tanager, Hooded Grosbeak, and Blue-crowned Chlorophonia. If we’re really lucky, we might even find the scarce Black-crested Coquette. After lunch in San Marcos, we’ll drive a couple hours and wind up in the small town of Sibinal. We’ll try to arrive in time for some rest before dinner in preparation for the following morning. Night in Sibinal.

Day 8: We’ll have an early breakfast (04:30) and head to a trail on the slopes of Volcán Tacaná. Our primary target today is the enigmatic Horned Guan, which is usually but not always present – depending on recent weather conditions, we may or may not encounter the fruiting trees favored by the guan. This is a very steep hike, and we’ll be close to 10,000 feet in elevation, but it’s much shorter and easier than the other available options for Horned Guan (if everything aligns we might not have to hike at all). We’ll take it slow, birding on the way. The forest here is beautiful, full of Pink-headed Warblers, Amethyst-throated Hummingbirds, and Blue-throated Motmots. Other enticing possibilities include Yellow Grosbeak (the ultra-saturated Guatemalan (sub)species) and maybe even Black-capped Siskin. We’ll spend a full morning on the trail, followed by a simple and delicious lunch at the house of our local guide. Our afternoon plan will depend on what birds we see in the morning. We’ll return to Sibinal for a much needed siesta, before heading out to a small restaurant in the forest where we might encounter owls after dinner.

Day 9: Our second morning around Sibinal will be spent birding some nearby roadsides, which are thick with Pink-headed Warblers and could harbor Chestnut-sided Shrike-Vireo. We’ll try to clean up some of the highland species we’re still missing, perhaps including the uncommon and shy Black-throated Jay or the skulky Rufous-browed Wren. Black-capped Siskin is another target in this area. We’ll have an early lunch at a local village, and then load up for another long drive. This time, we’re heading for the town of Huehuetenango, a drive that will likely take around five hours. Night in Huehuetenango.

Day 10: Our morning will begin with bundling in all our layers, as this will surely be the chilliest day of the tour. We’ll drive to Todos Santos Cuchumatan, the best spot in the world to see the stunning Goldman’s Warbler. Once considered a subspecies of Yellow-rumped Warbler, this bird has recently been shown to have substantially different genetics. To the birder, it’s different in just about every other way too: appearance, voice, size, shape, and range! The Goldman’s is found only in Guatemala, and even here it is restricted to high-elevation areas with junipers and pines. Surely seeing this beauty will be one of the highlights of the tour. We have a full day to explore this incredible plateau, with lunch at a cozy local restaurant. Other interesting possibilities up here include Ocellated Quails, Garnet-throated Hummingbird, Golden-crowned Kinglet, Brown Creeper, Rock Wren, Olive Warbler, Pink-headed Warbler, siskins (the strange perplexus subspecies of Pine Siskin occurs here, as well as the rarer Black-capped), and the Guatemalan subspecies of Yellow-eyed Junco and Guatemalan Flicker. Night in Huehuetenango.

Day 11: Today is mostly a travel day. We’ll drive approximately two hours from Huehuetenango to Xela(whenever possible we’ll fly directly from Huehue), where we’ll hop on a short internal flight back to Guatemala City. We should arrive around mid-day, and we’ll head straight to a farewell lunch to celebrate our time in the Guatemala highlands! We end the main tour at the airport with drop-offs for evening flights home, or transfers to your hotel for an optional extra night in the city.

Those continuing on the extension will take a short flight to Flores for the night.

Tikal Extension

Day 12: We’ll start the morning quite early near the town of Santa Ana, an area of open savannah and scrub. Before the heat sets in, we’ll make a special effort to find Black Catbird, a Yucatán specialty. The supporting cast might include Vermilion Flycatcher, Black-throated Bobwhite, Olive Sparrow, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Botteri’s Sparrow, and Gray-crowned Yellowthroat. Depending on the weather, we’ll also probably spend some time at a local reserve called Ixpanpajul, which harbors a good mix of forest species (often including Keel-billed Toucan, Black-headed Trogon, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, White-breasted Wood-Wren, and Blue Bunting).

We’ll have lunch and a mid-day break at our hotel before heading back out again. We’ll probably check some nearby marshes (by foot or by boat!) that can be loaded with Purple Gallinules, Northern Jacanas, Neotropic Cormorants, and perhaps even Least or Pinnated Bitterns.

Day 13: An early morning will see us driving to Yaxha, a short distance southeast of Tikal. Named for its proximity to the sparkling turquoise waters of the nearby lagoons, Yaxha (“Yax” = green, “Ha” = water) was occupied for some 1500 years up to about the year 900. The impressive ruins of the Maya city are aligned along an arrow-straight axis nearly a mile long and culminate in the monumental buildings of the Eastern Acropolis. The fine forest surrounding the site abounds with tropical birds, including the dramatic Pale-billed Woodpecker and a variety of colorful parrots, trogons, toucans, hummingbirds, and tanagers. We have a good chance at Yucatan Flycatcher, and perhaps Gray-throated Chat or Blue Bunting. We’ll keep an eye out overhead for King Vulture, and the resident Bat Falcon is likely to greet us too. We’ll have lunch near Yaxha and head to Tikal in the early afternoon to check into our hotel. We’ll have an optional evening outing bird around the hotel grounds and parking lot of Tikal, which is often loaded with parrots, Russet-naped Wood-Rail, Ocellated Turkey, and more! Night at Tikal.

Day 14: Guatemala’s first national park, Tikal, is, simply put, one of a kind; a combination of nature and culture without parallel. Orange-breasted Falcons nest on breathtaking pyramids, and Ocellated Turkeys wander around unconcernedly just as they likely did in the days of the classical Maya. We also have a good chance of seeing Crested Guan and another of the prizes among the cracids, Great Curassow, which is relatively confiding (but still uncommon) under the protected conditions of the national park.

We’ll make the most of our full day here, departing at 4:30am and walking into the park to experience sunrise atop one of the pyramids. This can be a great way to listen to the forest come alive at dawn, with Amazons(White-crowned, White-fronted, Red-lored, and Mealy) flying around, Keel-billed Toucans and Brown Jays in the canopy, Ridgway’s Rough-winged Swallow and Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift overhead, raptors in the distance, and usually a surprise or two! Among the many other possibilities are Russet-naped Wood-Rail, White-bellied Emerald, Slaty-tailed, Gartered, and Black-headed Trogons, Tody Motmot, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Keel-billed Toucan, several species of woodcreeper including Tawny-winged, Ruddy, and Northern Barred, Northern Bentbill, Stub-tailed Spadebill, Eye-ringed Flatbill, Royal Flycatcher, White-bellied and Spot-breasted Wrens, White-collared Manakin, Black-throated Shrike-Tanager, Olive-backed Euphonia, and Montezuma Oropendola. We’ll probably see well over 100 species in total! Night in Tikal.

Day 15: We’ll spend another morning around Tikal, perhaps focusing on some secondary forest nearby for more localized specialties like Gray-throated Chat, Yucatan Flycatcher, Mangrove Vireo, and Rose-throated Tanager. Depending on flight schedules, we’ll head back to Flores at some point in the afternoon, stopping for lunch and birding along the way. We’ll fly back to Guatemala City in the afternoon or evening and enjoy a scrumptious farewell dinner before our departures home. Night in Guatemala City.

Day 16: The extension ends with transfers to the airport for flights home.

2026 Narrative

IN BRIEF: This journey through Guatemala delivered an extraordinary blend of world-class birding, dramatic landscapes, and unforgettable experiences. From the volcanic slopes of Atitlán and the Pacific foothills to cloud forests, pine highlands, the high elevation plateau of the Cuchumatanes, and the tropical lowland jungles of Petén, each region offered its own scenery and specialties. Among the many highlights was the dazzling Resplendent Quetzal, watched at close range as a pair worked on a nest cavity, and the incomparable Pink-headed Warbler, glowing like a jewel in the highland forests. Yet two species stood above all others: the mythical Horned Guan, of which we astonishingly saw five in one morning, and the spectacular Ocellated Quail, granting prolonged, once-in-a-lifetime views high in the Cuchumatanes. Add in Orange-breasted Falcon, Azure-rumped Tanager, Yellow-breasted Crake, and the grandeur of Tikal at sunrise, and the result was a tour rich in rare birds, stunning habitats, and moments none of us will soon forget.

IN DETAIL: 

Erupting Volcanoes, a Swainson’s Hawk migration and stunningly beautiful gardens. On the first day of the tour, we gathered in the garden of the Porta Hotel in Antigua about an hour before dinner. The garden was quite birdy, and we quickly picked up some of the regulars, along with a very unusual Scissor-tailed Flycatcher. We enjoyed a fantastic first dinner together before soon retiring to our rooms.

The next morning, we had an early departure planned, and with coffee in hand we were on the road just before 5:00 a.m. As we drove toward the Pacific lowlands, we noticed that the nearby volcanoes were free of clouds, so we made a stop in complete darkness to wait for eruptions from the highly active Volcán Fuego. After only a few minutes, we were treated to our first spectacular lava eruption, followed by another and then another. It was not easy to tear ourselves away from such an incredible sight, but we had a date with another stunning location.

Shortly after sunrise, we arrived at Finca El Zapote, where we were greeted by an array of Pacific lowland birds, including Orange-fronted Parakeet, Pacific Parakeet, and Spot-breasted Oriole, all set against a breathtaking backdrop of the volcano towering above the gardens. We birded the grounds for some time, enjoying several Least Grebe, a sharp Bat Falcon, Green Kingfisher, and the recently arrived Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher, before sitting down to breakfast in the beautiful garden behind the house.

Afterwards, we prepared to head up the volcano, but not before taking a good look at a very vocal Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl. The drive up the mountain was slow, and twice the vehicle struggled to make its way up the slippery cobblestones. Halfway up, we were surprised by a large flock of migrating Swainson’s Hawks heading north. We easily counted around 300 birds, followed by another 200 shortly thereafter.

Higher up, we quickly picked up both Collared Trogon and Gartered Trogon, while a Thicket Tinamou teased us from incredibly close range—so close that for a moment we thought it might step into view at any second. Later, a calling Tody Motmot lured us back up the trail, but it remained stubbornly hidden.

After lunch—during which we spotted a Neotropical River Otter—we made our way toward our next destination: Tarrales. We arrived in good time, settled into our rooms, and enjoyed a lovely dinner while reviewing an exciting first full day of birding in Guatemala.

Coffee plantations on the pacific foothills. On our first full day in Tarrales, we left before first light and drove up Volcán Atitlán toward Vesubio. Just as the day was breaking, we spotted a male Highland Guan perched at eye level off to the side of the road. This typically shy species seemed completely unaware of our presence and continued preening, allowing for absolutely fabulous views. With such a remarkable bird to start the day, we were off to a fantastic beginning.

We made one additional stop along the drive to search for a nearby Green Shrike-Vireo, but despite our efforts, it refused to show itself. Upon arriving at the abandoned coffee-picking village of Vesubio, we enjoyed a quick breakfast before setting off up the trail.

It didn’t take long for the action to begin. We soon encountered three stunning hummingbirds: the regional endemic Rufous Sabrewing, along with Emerald-chinned Hummingbird and Green-throated Mountain-gem, followed by a brief but appreciated view of Blue-crowned Chlorophonia. And yet, this was only the beginning of what would become an extraordinary morning.

At the highest part of the trail, bird activity reached a fever pitch. For nearly an hour, we hardly knew where to look. Multiple Hooded Grosbeaks fed in the canopy while Azure-rumped Tanagers made an appearance. The rare and very local Bar-winged Orioles showed nicely, and we were even treated to views of a Gray-collared Becard. The ease with which these range-restricted regional endemics revealed themselves was nothing short of remarkable.

On the hike back down, we were briefly excited by the call of a Black Hawk-Eagle, but unfortunately lost track of it before we could get eyes on the bird. Shortly after returning to the vehicles, Eve suggested one final stop to try for a couple more specialties—and despite an already incredible morning, we were in for yet another highlight.

Two male Long-tailed Manakins appeared, perched side by side on a vertical branch and singing, giving everyone ample time for excellent scope views. As if that weren’t enough, two Gray-crowned Ground-Sparrows joined the scene shortly thereafter, putting a perfect exclamation mark on a truly unforgettable outing.

The afternoon around the lodge was just as enjoyable. We had great views of all the local parakeet species and eventually tracked down a group of 10 Yellow-naped Amazons—a significant sighting, given that only around 500 individuals remain in the country. In the gardens, we added Canivet’s Emerald, admired a lively Common Tody-Flycatcher, and watched several White-throated Magpie-Jays gliding overhead.

After dark, a Common Pauraque flew right over our heads, while a distant Black-and-white Owl called but remained unseen. On the way back, we made one final stop, where Eve worked her magic and called in a Northern Potoo. We enjoyed prolonged views of this wonderfully bizarre “crazy-eyed” bird before finally heading back to the lodge for dinner and drinks.

It was one of those days where everything seemed to fall into place—we truly couldn’t have asked for more.

Completing the Ground Sparrows. Today marked our second full day in Tarrales, and we planned to explore the slopes of Volcán Atitlán, heading up to a site known as “La Isla.” On the drive up, we made an early stop at a beautiful viewpoint, where the volcano revealed itself in the soft morning light. While taking in the scenery, we also enjoyed great looks at several Crested Guans flying from tree to tree across the valley.

Continuing higher, we stopped for breakfast overlooking another scenic valley. In the middle of it all, Eve suddenly picked up the calls of a pair of White-faced Ground-Sparrows. They responded quickly, circling us twice and giving everyone fantastic views—truly a gem among ground-sparrows.

The rest of the morning produced a nice supporting cast, including a Chestnut-capped Warbler, Blue-throated Goldentail, several of the raptors we had seen previously, and two Long-billed Starthroats just before we made our way back down to the lodge. By late morning, the heat had already built up significantly, and we were more than happy to enjoy a relaxing siesta during the hottest part of the day.

In the afternoon, we birded the Rinconada Trail. Here, we had excellent looks at a typically shy Spot-breasted Wren, encountered an exceptionally close Laughing Falcon perched just above eye level, and came across a flock of migrating Blue Grosbeaks moving through.

Back at the lodge, it was time for our final evening in Tarrales—and as luck would have it, it was Friday, which meant Tarrales’ famous pizza night. We enjoyed some outstanding pizza, cold drinks, and a relaxed atmosphere as we wrapped up another wonderful day of birding.

Possibly the most beautiful lake in the world. We started the day in a relaxed manner, enjoying a cup of coffee outside the lodge while admiring the beautiful volcano in the soft morning light. Parakeets moved overhead, and White-throated Magpie-Jays called around us, providing a fitting farewell atmosphere. After a lovely sit-down breakfast, it was time to say goodbye to Tarrales.

We then made our way toward Lake Atitlán, heading to the base of Volcán Tolimán in search of one of the region’s more elusive specialties—the Blue-and-white Mockingbird. Shortly after arriving, we picked up a promising call from the nearby shrubbery, and after a bit of patient waiting, we were rewarded with excellent views of this shy skulker.

Continuing on, we soon heard a pair of Rusty Sparrows. After a brief distraction from a calling Greater Pewee and a rare White-breasted Hawk (a resident subspecies of Sharp-shinned Hawk), we managed to get great looks at the sparrows as well. Just as we were about to leave, a single “toot” revealed the presence of a Blue-throated Motmot. Taking the opportunity, we called it in, and the usually secretive bird perched at a comfortable distance, allowing everyone scope views of this regional endemic.

We continued on to Santiago Atitlán, making an impromptu stop at Hotel Bambú, where a Slender Sheartail had recently been frequenting the garden. After some searching, and just as patience was beginning to wear thin, a female appeared, and we all enjoyed good looks at this tiny, insect-like hummingbird.

From there, we boarded a boat to cross the stunning Lake Atitlán—once described centuries ago by Alexander von Humboldt as “possibly the most beautiful lake in the world.” After a spectacular lunch at Hotel Atitlán, it was time to continue west toward the San Marcos region.

The drive was long but scenic, and we arrived in good time, settling in for the night after another rewarding day in the field.

The feathered serpent and other green jewels. Today was the big day—time to search for Guatemala’s national bird, the Resplendent Quetzal. With boxed breakfasts in hand, we headed to Don Marino’s house, where he kindly prepared fresh coffee while we enjoyed our meal. His hummingbird feeders were buzzing with activity, giving us prolonged views of Violet Sabrewing, Rufous Sabrewing, Rivoli’s Hummingbird, and Blue-tailed Hummingbird, along with the beautiful Green-throated Mountain-gem. Overhead, a large flock of Chestnut-collared Swifts added to the morning’s energy.

Soon it was time to head to the quetzal refuge. We hiked down into the steep valley, prepared for a patient search. Just two days earlier, a pair of Resplendent Quetzals had abandoned a nesting attempt, but we knew they were still in the area. Don Lisandro went ahead to check a potential new site, and within minutes came hurrying back with exciting news. Sure enough, the pair had settled nearby and were already excavating a fresh nest.

We arrived to find the female working diligently at the trunk, softly calling as she chipped away. Moments later, the stunning male appeared, and we watched as the pair took turns working on the nest cavity. It was an unforgettable experience—one of those rare glimpses into the life of this iconic species.

Before leaving the refuge, we spent some time in the lower forest in hopes of finding another regional gem: the Yellow-throated Nightingale-Thrush. After about twenty minutes, we heard its song, and to our amazement, it soon hopped up into a tree—quite uncharacteristic for such a secretive species. With its bright orange bill and legs, and beautifully marked yellow throat, it is undoubtedly one of the most striking nightingale-thrushes in Central America, and we were fortunate to enjoy excellent views.

With some extra time available, we headed down the road toward El Bojonal, where the birding once again exceeded expectations. We were treated to incredible eye-level views of two pairs of Blue-crowned Chlorophonias busy building nests, as well as the usually difficult and highly range-restricted Azure-rumped Tanagers, showing remarkably well.

We then returned to Don Marino’s house for lunch, where a delicious homemade chicken soup awaited us, followed by sweet cantaloupe for dessert—a perfect midday break.

In the afternoon, we explored the Astillero of San Marcos, where we were rewarded with our first sighting of the truly spectacular Pink-headed Warbler. While the name is accurate, it hardly does justice to the bird’s rich, almost wine-toned coloration—something closer to a blend of deep merlot and frosted strawberry. Another highlight was the elegant Golden-browed Warbler, and we also had a tantalizing encounter with a group of Singing Quail, which surrounded us at close range but, true to form, refused to reveal themselves.

Without a doubt, this was a day packed to the brim with unforgettable encounters. Tired but thoroughly satisfied, we fell into bed that evening—completely unbothered by the ever-present chorus of roosters.

Chilly mornings and our first Pinkitos. We decided to return to the Astillero, reasoning that a Monday morning would bring less traffic and perhaps a few additional birding opportunities. Upon arrival, it was quite cold, and we bundled up in every extra layer we had available. Not far up the road, we encountered a pair of Yellow Grosbeaks (the Guatemalan subspecies). First detected by a distinctive “tink” call, we soon located a stunning male, followed shortly by the female—a great addition to our growing list.

As we climbed higher, we reached the sunshine and gladly soaked in its warmth while attempting to photograph several Pink-headed Warblers chasing each other at eye level—an unforgettable sight in great light.

We then returned to Don Marino’s house, where hot coffee was waiting for us. While having breakfast, we enjoyed views of Yellow-throated Euphonias and a striking Red-legged Honeycreeper feeding on bananas.

Continuing along the Bojonal road, we picked up looks at Brown-backed Solitaire and Bushy-crested Jay, and were surprised by a Resplendent Quetzal that casually flew through the canopy. The discovery of a pair of nest-building Azure-rumped Tanagers was another special moment. 

Eventually, it was time to leave this stunning region behind and head toward new adventures. Our expected four-hour drive turned into just two and a half hours, gifting us some unexpected birding time along the way. With fantastic weather and cooler temperatures, we took full advantage, adding several great species—including excellent views of Black-throated Jays and the spectacular Garnet-throated Hummingbird.

After a rewarding afternoon, we continued on to Sibinal, where we settled in for the night.

The mythical unicorns. There is one bird in Guatemala that truly holds mythical status—considered by some to be among the top ten birds in the world. A species that usually requires a long hike up a volcano above 8,000 feet. The Horned Guan—a true dinosaur. And today was the day.

We departed Sibinal well before sunrise to give ourselves the best possible chance. Arriving at the site at just the right time, we headed straight for an overlook facing a vast wall of pristine mountain forest. With a bit of luck, we hoped we might find our target without having to hike at all—a very appealing thought at nearly 9,000 feet elevation.

About 30 minutes into scanning, Vinicio suddenly signaled that he had something. We hurried over and got the scope on it—and there it was: the unmistakable tail of a Horned Guan. One by one, everyone got on the bird. Then, it stepped into full view and began feeding in the open. What a moment.

We spent over 40 minutes enjoying extended scope views when suddenly a second bird was spotted. And then another. And another. By the time the sun finally crested the mountain—revealing frost still clinging to the ground—we had tallied five Horned Guans. We stood there in disbelief, hardly able to process what we had just experienced. With an estimated population of only around 1,500 individuals, this evolutionary oddity truly is one of the great treasures of the bird world.

With plenty of extra time on our hands, we birded our way down toward Román’s house, and the quality of sightings hardly let up. Highlights included Yellow-backed Oriole, nesting Pink-headed Warblers, and what one participant aptly described as a “Chestnut-sided Warbler on steroids”—the stunning Chestnut-sided Shrike-Vireo.

Reaching the lower part of the valley, we stopped for lunch at Román’s home, where his ever-smiling wife Estela prepared a wonderfully authentic meal for us. Just as we were getting back into the vehicles to return to Sibinal, a Buff-breasted Flycatcher appeared, perching photogenically on the tip of a tree—a perfect farewell from this remarkable place.

In the evening, we added great views of the regional endemic Black Thrush and, after dinner featuring local trout, heard the soft, eerie hoot of a Stygian Owl in the darkness. It had been a truly spectacular day—one that exceeded even our highest expectations. 

A tiny raptor. It was almost time to say goodbye to this remarkable corner of the country. We left Sibinal heading toward Unión Reforma, birding our way along the route to breakfast. Far down the slopes, we heard the distant toots of a Guatemalan Pygmy-Owl (the local form of Northern Pygmy-Owl) and gave a few whistles in response. After several minutes, the forest came alive—Central American Steller’s Jays and Rufous-collared Robins began scolding, signaling that our tiny predator had arrived.

After a bit of scanning, we located the feisty little owl and enjoyed excellent, close scope views—an impressive bird despite its size.

We then continued on to Maribel’s house for breakfast, which we thoroughly enjoyed. It was another wonderful opportunity to experience the warmth and authenticity of rural Guatemala.

Afterwards, we birded around the village and soon heard a nearby Singing Quail. Carefully positioning ourselves, we waited—and within seconds, the unsuspecting bird stepped out into the open, only to notice us and explode back into the forest. Brief, but exhilarating—exactly the kind of encounter that makes these birds so memorable.

The afternoon was largely dedicated to travel as we made our way toward our next destination, Huehuetenango. Ahead of us lay a new chapter of the journey—exploring the highlands of the Cuchumatanes.

The quail whisperer and yet another mythical creature. Off we went in search of another mythical species—but not before a hot cup of coffee and the long drive up into the Sierra de los Cuchumatanes. We left before daybreak and steadily climbed to elevations above 10,000 feet. In Chiabal, we picked up Esteban Matías—the “Quail Whisperer.” His name comes up whenever this species is mentioned, and he is renowned for his uncanny ability to anticipate the birds’ movements. But first, another target awaited.

We continued higher onto the plateau, arriving at a beautiful spot surrounded by pines and junipers, where we tried for Goldman’s Warbler. Within minutes, an immature male responded, giving us our first looks. Encouraged, we pushed on to an even higher site—well above 12,000 feet—where Esteban surprised us with hot coffee and champurradas. Enjoying a warm drink in such a spectacular highland landscape was an experience in itself.

Nearby, we approached a patch of short pines in hopes of finding a full adult Goldman’s Warbler, but instead were greeted by a stunning male Olive Warbler—feeding below eye level just 20 feet away. A completely unexpected and memorable encounter. Then it was time for the main event.

We drove across the “Planos del Diablo” to a site Esteban felt confident about for Ocellated Quail. Staying inside the vehicle to use it as a hide, we listened as Esteban carefully whistled the call of a female. Before long, a male responded from across a freshly plowed field. We waited in anticipation—until suddenly, a beautifully marked male ran out into the open and crossed right in front of us, giving everyone excellent views. What a moment. But it didn’t end there.

Esteban suggested another nearby spot where we might even get photos. This time, we lined up along the vehicle while he worked his magic again. Almost immediately, two males responded—one on either side. Slowly, one approached and hopped onto a small mound beneath a pine. As we tried to get photos, it slipped behind vegetation and disappeared.

Meanwhile, we briefly searched for Black-capped Siskins, managing only fleeting and inconclusive views. But just as we were about to move on, the quail reappeared—walking calmly out into the open and heading toward a low stone wall. Halfway there, it hopped onto a single rock and paused, offering breathtaking, prolonged views. Cameras clicked furiously. What followed was nothing short of extraordinary.

The quail continued in our direction, stopping occasionally to sing and pose, seemingly unaware of our presence. For over 40 minutes, we watched and photographed this stunning bird at close range—until even our camera batteries began to give up. It was one of those rare moments when everything aligns—an experience that will stay with us for a lifetime.

Eventually, as we prepared to leave, the quail moved further along the stone wall, continuing to call until it was slowly swallowed by the incoming clouds and disappeared into the mist. A perfect, almost surreal ending to an unforgettable encounter.

On the way back, we made a quick stop for Savannah Sparrow, and managing only limited views of Black Siskin, before returning to Chiabal. By now well past lunchtime, we collectively decided to skip a proper meal in favor of more birding.

Back in the village, the backyard birding proved surprisingly productive, highlighted by a Pine Flycatcher—a great addition. Before returning to the hotel, we also picked up Broad-tailed Hummingbird and Black-vented Oriole, capping off an incredible day in the Cuchumatanes. After dinner, we fell into bed, exhausted but elated.

The following day was largely a travel day as we made our way back to Guatemala City. It also marked the end of the tour two of our participants, who would not be joining the extension to Tikal. Before parting ways, we shared a memorable “Swiss-style” lunch at Cabaña Suiza—complete with bratwurst, weizenbier, and even a few Grace’s Warblers in the surrounding trees.

After our goodbyes, we continued on to Petén, where an entirely new set of birds—and adventures—awaited.

Yellow-breasted Crakes and a whole new set of birds. We gathered for coffee before sunrise, and while taking our first sips, a Northern Potoo began calling right next to us. We quickly got it in the scope before it lifted off and glided toward its roost—an atmospheric start to the day.

We arrived at the savanna just before sunrise, and bird activity was immediate and intense. At times, we hardly knew where to look. Among flocks of Grassquits, strikingly bright female Painted Buntings, and our first Couch’s Kingbird, we also recorded an impressive five Gray-crowned Yellowthroats. It was a thrilling hour of birding, culminating in excellent views of our main targets—the Petén forms of Botteri’s Sparrow and Olive Sparrow.

Back at the hotel, a fantastic breakfast awaited us, accompanied by entertaining views of Russet-naped Wood-Rails and Morelet’s Crocodiles nearby.

We then headed out again in search of Black Catbird—a species that often requires patience along less-than-ideal roadside habitat. After some searching, we managed to track one down, though views were limited to moving bushes and brief glimpses at best.

Fortunately, our luck improved at Ixpanpajul, where we added several quality species, including Tropical Royal Flycatcher and Black-headed Trogon, among others. After lunch and a short break during the heat of the day, we continued to Tayazal to meet José for an afternoon excursion on Lake Petén Itzá. Our main objective: the recently discovered Yellow-breasted Crake.

The boat ride itself was enjoyable, with plenty of Herons, Egrets, and Terns along the way. As we approached the target area, a Least Bittern flushed from the reeds—one of several we would see that afternoon. Then the real challenge began.

For quite some time, all we had were subtle movements in the grass—brief hints that the crakes were present. A quick dash across a narrow opening confirmed it. Then another bird moved just out of view along the edge. The tension built. And then, suddenly, it happened. A Yellow-breasted Crake stepped out into the open.

We watched in amazement as this tiny, beautifully marked bird walked about unconcerned, allowing prolonged and satisfying views. Despite its small size, it was an absolute showstopper. After such a patient wait, the reward felt all the sweeter.

As the sun began to set, we cruised back toward Tayazal, still savoring the experience. But the day wasn’t over yet. Arriving slightly early for our final outing, we waited as dusk settled in. In the fading light, a Lesser Nighthawk appeared overhead, soon joined by at least one Common Nighthawk, which swooped low and fast through our group in pursuit of insects.

Not long after, we heard the soft calls of our next target—a Middle American Screech-Owl. Within minutes, it perched in the open, offering excellent scope views for everyone. While we were unable to see Yucatán Poorwill and Yucatán Nightjar, we did enjoy their calls in the early night, with one poorwill coming tantalizingly close.

And so, our first day in Petén came to an end—rich in highlights and full of memorable encounters. We couldn’t have asked for more.

A Gray-throated Chat and a ridiculously colored Turkey. Today was our chance to clean up several Yucatán specialties. With heavy hearts, we said goodbye to the beautiful Villa Maya and set off toward Yaxhá, a smaller Maya city that flourished around the same time as Tikal. Our main birding focus, however, was the access road, where we hoped to find species such as Gray-throated Chat and Yucatán Flycatcher.

Along the way, we picked up a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron and our final sparrow of the trip—the Green-backed Sparrow. While imitating the mournful call of the Yucatán Flycatcher, we instead drew in a Rufous-tailed Jacamar, which obligingly perched out in the open for excellent views.

Just as we were about to move on, a Yucatán Flycatcher called from behind us. With a bit of patience, we managed to see it fly over us twice—brief but satisfying looks at this regional specialty.

Before reaching the ruins, we made one more stop to search for the striking Gray-throated Chat. We heard one nearby, but it proved elusive at first, circling us repeatedly while staying hidden. Eventually, we followed a narrow trail to improve our chances, and finally a participant spotted it as it flew in. Everyone enjoyed well-earned views of this charming bird—its mix of red, white, and gray making it a true standout.

The ruins themselves added a pleasant mix of history and birding. Highlights included Black-cheeked Woodpecker, White-bellied Wren, White-breasted Wood-Wren, Spot-breasted Wren, and Wedge-tailed Sabrewing. We paused to admire the small ball court and reflect on the story of the Maya hero twins, Ixbalanqué and Hunahpú, before heading to lunch at the idyllic Sombrero Restaurant overlooking the Yaxhá lagoon.

The afternoon was dedicated to the journey to Tikal, which we happily enriched with views of a pair of nesting Slaty-tailed Trogons—and, of course, ice cream for everyone.

Upon arrival at the Jungle Lodge, we were greeted by a spectacular Ocellated Turkey, whose iridescent colors seemed almost unreal. He was busy displaying to a thoroughly unimpressed female, but we, on the other hand, were thoroughly entertained—both by his appearance and his wonderfully odd vocalizations.

A magical sunrise over temples and the end of a spectacular tour. Today was the big day for Tikal. Byron had arranged a ranger’s truck for us, allowing an easy ride into the archaeological zone and up to the Lost World complex. Dating back to around 300 BC, this remarkable part of the site may well be one of the greatest canopy towers ever built by humanity.

With only two other people present on “our” pyramid, we quietly watched night give way to dawn. The Big Dipper still hung in the sky as we listened to a distant Mottled Owl, several Common Pauraques, and a calling Barred Forest-Falcon. Slowly, the eastern sky turned rosy above the silhouette of the Great Jaguar Temple.

Once the sun broke the horizon, the true spectacle began. Countless Parrots, Amazons, and Oropendolas wheeled around us at eye level, giving unforgettable views from above the forest canopy. Then Byron called out the star of the morning: one of fewer than 50 Orange-breasted Falcons remaining in Central America, perched high on Temple IV. We quickly got the bird in the scope, and moments later it was joined by the female. Later that day, we learned that three chicks had hatched just two weeks earlier—wonderful news for the next generation of this extraordinary species.

After several magical hours atop the pyramid, surrounded by Maya temples rising from endless rainforest, we descended and made our way toward the Great Plaza. Along the route, we encountered multiple Slaty-tailed Trogons, as well as a tree alive with Pale-billed and Lineated Woodpeckers. At the plaza itself, a King Vulture soared overhead as we admired the ancient structures below.

Wildlife remained constant throughout the morning. Spider Monkeys carrying babies moved through the canopy, White-nosed Coatis went about their business, and migratory mixed flocks passed through the forest—many birds dusted red with pollen from the flowering trees blooming across the landscape.

We enjoyed lunch in a hidden-away forest restaurant and were more than happy to take a siesta during the hottest part of the day. The afternoon brought further memorable encounters, perhaps most notably a Mayan Antthrush. Heard first in the distance, it eventually hopped onto a vine directly in front of us, sang briefly, and vanished back into the forest as suddenly as it had appeared.

As always, it felt as though we could have spent many more days in Guatemala and still found new birds. But Tikal felt like a worthy grand finale to such an outstanding journey. We still had one final outing left the next morning.

Before breakfast, we headed back toward Uaxactún. The first mixed flocks were so active that we barely knew where to look. At the same time, both Great Tinamou and Pheasant Cuckoo called tantalizingly close, though neither chose to reveal itself. We did, however, connect with several species still high on the wish list, including Tawny-winged Woodcreeper and the tiny Stub-tailed Spadebill.

After returning for a leisurely breakfast, we began the journey toward Flores for our flight back to Guatemala City—but not without one final stop at Lake Petén Itzá for a chance at Ruddy Crake. By then, the heat was intense, yet we ventured out along the dock in hopes of one last regional specialty. Halfway down, our target suddenly ran out across the lily pads, giving nothing less than spectacular views.

One final lunch at Villa Maya, accompanied by the famous “Pink-headed Warbler” drink, provided the perfect farewell. A surprise Blue-black Grosbeak, always a scarce bird in Guatemala, and a beautiful Golden-winged Warbler heading north added two last avian flourishes to an already unforgettable adventure.

And with that, an absolutely spectacular tour came to a close.

What made this journey so special was not only the birds, landscapes, and unforgettable moments, but the wonderful group that shared them together. Good humor, enthusiasm, and genuine companionship accompanied us from the first morning to the final farewell. It was a true pleasure to show you the beauty, diversity, and warmth of Guatemala, and to experience these extraordinary places in such fine company.

Thank you all for the laughter, the shared excitement, the early mornings, and the many memories created along the way. I very much hope our paths cross again soon—somewhere on another trail, at another dawn chorus, on the next great birding adventure. Until then, safe travels and good birding to all.

                                                                                                                                                                                   - Roland Rumm 

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