Costa Rica in Spring

Day 1: The tour begins at 6 pm this evening in the lobby of our hotel. Night in Heredia.

Day 2: We’ll begin in the Central Valley, bounded on the east by the Cordillera de Talamanca, a vast mountain range protected by national parks or biological preserves. One national park, Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte, is only a short distance from Heredia, and we’ll spend the whole morning exploring its lush cloud forest. We’ll have our first chance at many montane forest species such as Black Guan, White-bellied Mountain-gem, Collared Trogon, Prong-billed and Red-headed Barbets, Golden-bellied Flycatcher, Torrent Tyrannulet, and Spangle-cheeked and Bay-headed Tanagers. Several species otherwise rare in Central America are seen regularly at Tapantí, including Green-fronted Lancebill, Silvery-fronted Tapaculo, and Wrenthrush. In the afternoon we’ll continue to a high mountain valley below Cerro de la Muerte, and our hotel whose garden drips with blooming fuchsias and begonias. Night in San Gerardo de Dota.

Day 3: From our hotel, we'll have easy access to most of the montane species endemic to the area known as the Chiriqui Highlands, which extends into westernmost Panama. We’ll birdwatch along dirt roads through mid-elevation montane forest, encountering many new species including Fiery-throated Hummingbird, Black-capped Flycatcher, Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher, Sooty and Mountain Thrushes, Sooty-capped Chlorospingus, and Yellow-thighed and Large-footed Finches. The gardens of our hotel may give us our first views of the magnificent Resplendent Quetzal as there’s almost sure to be a fruiting aguacatillo tree or an active nest within a short walk or drive. At flowers and feeders we can expect many species of hummingbirds, including White-throated Mountain-gem, Lesser Violetear, and Talamanca, and Volcano Hummingbirds. During our stay we’ll go above treeline where we’ll look for high-elevation specialties such as Timberline Wren, Peg-billed Finch, and Volcano Junco. Night in San Gerardo de Dota.

Day 4: After a final look for any specialties we may have missed, we’ll drop out of the highlands and work our way south. We’ll start noticing more and more tropical birds from the bus, such as Roadside Hawk, Gray-capped Flycatcher, or perhaps even Pearl Kite or Streaked Saltator, and we’ll make opportunistic roadside stops as necessary. As we continue down to the Pacific lowlands near Golfito and on to the more humid Osa Peninsula, roadside birds could include such tropical elements as Yellow-throated Toucan, Crested Guan, and Golden-naped Woodpecker. We’ll plan to arrive at our lodge with enough time to get oriented and perhaps do some owling near the grounds. Night at Bosque del Río Tigre.

Days 5–6: The Osa Peninsula is in the heart of the South Central American Pacific Slope endemic bird area. Not only does it host all of the region’s endemics, such as the blue and red Baird’s Trogon, the well-named Fiery-billed Aracari, the lovely Turquoise Cotinga, Black-hooded Antshrike, and Spot-crowned Euphonia, it’s also home to the very localized Costa Rican endemic Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager. Most of the birding is right at our lodge, where we stand a good chance of seeing all of those specialties. The feeders usually have visiting Little Tinamou, one of the best places to see this very secretive bird, and Black-faced Antthrush walks around near the compost pile at dawn and dusk. Mixed flocks on the forest trails often have Long-billed Gnatwren, White-shouldered Tanager, Plain Xenops, and several woodcreepers, and a couple of ponds usually have Boat-billed Heron and sometimes American Pygmy Kingfisher. We’ll also have optional afternoon excursion which involves wading up the shallow El Tigre River and a nearby stream in search of rarely-seen specialties such as White-crested Coquette and White-tipped Sicklebill. Birding there is extremely productive and day lists of over 120 species while birding on foot and never more than a kilometer from our lodge are likely. Nights at Bosque del Río Tigre.

Day 7: The first stop on our way north will most likely be the Rincón bridge where the old-growth rainforest and mangroves are home to the rare and declining Yellow-billed Cotinga. This snow-white, silent member of the cotinga family is often seen flying back and forth from fruiting trees in the forest to the mangroves where they breed. We also have a chance for the endemic Mangrove Hummingbird which requires the piñuela tree, found only in the Pacific coast mangrove forests. The roadside birding as we pass north through a mosaic of forest and agricultural land could produce Southern Lapwing (a recent immigrant), Brown Capuchin, or even a Three-toed Sloth in a roadside cecropia tree. Stopping at bridges has resulted in eye-popping views of Red-legged Honeycreeper below eye level—deep purple with a shiny sky-blue crown—several species of kingfisher, and Mangrove Swallow, while wet ditches and roadside ponds have been good bets for Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, Northern Jacana, and groups of Wood Stork and Roseate Spoonbill. We’ll arrive at our hotel in the late afternoon, leaving us time to enjoy the grounds, where Rose-throated Becard and Rufous-naped Wren are likely. Night near Carara.

Day 8: We’ll take a several hour early morning boat ride on the Tárcoles River and through the mangrove forest, where Collared Plover, Black-necked Stilt, Mangrove Vireo, and Yellow-naped Parrot are some of the target birds.  The abundance of life and diversity of water birds make this short excursion a highlight of the tour. From late morning until lunchtime we’ll pass through pastureland and patches of tropical deciduous forest where we could see such new species as Cinnamon Hummingbird, Plain-capped Starthroat, Turquoise-browed Motmot, Banded Wren, White-lored Gnatcatcher, Olive Sparrow, Double-striped Thick-knee, and possibly the elusive Lesser Ground-Cuckoo.  After lunch at a lodge on the Gulf of Nicoya coast we’ll spend the afternoon driving to a more comfortable elevation in the Cordillera de Tilarán. Night in Monteverde.

Day 9: We’ll spend all day visiting cloud forest reserves in the Monteverde area. We’ll be right on the Continental Divide in one of the best-known birding localities in Central America. In spring the preserves are famous for nesting Resplendent Quetzals and calling Three-wattled Bellbirds—audible a mile away. We’ll search for these, of course, and for many other species including Orange-bellied Trogon, Prong-billed Barbet, Lineated Foliage-gleaner, Streak-breasted Treehunter, Tawny-throated and Gray-throated Leaftossers, Azure-hooded Jay, Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush, Costa Rican Warbler, Golden-browed Chlorophonia, and Chestnut-capped Brushfinch. If we’re lucky we may encounter one of the area’s difficult-to-see specialties, such as Black-breasted Wood-Quail or Buff-fronted Quail-Dove. We’ll also visit the Hummingbird Gallery at the entrance to the cloud forest reserve, where we’re likely to see up to eight species of hummingbird including numerous Violet Sabrewing and Coppery-headed Emerald. Our hotel grounds are great for birding too; Lesson’s Motmot, Rufous-and-white Wren, and Mottled Owl are regularly seen. Night in Monteverde.

Day 10: We’ll begin our final morning at Monteverde with a visit to the decidedly drier forest of the private Santuario Ecológico. The birds here are quite different from those found only a couple of miles away in the wetter preserves, and we’ll have a chance of seeing Long-tailed Manakin, Golden-crowned Warbler, White-eared Ground-Sparrow, and possibly Chiriqui Quail-Dove and Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush.  Before lunch we’ll depart for the Caribbean lowlands, passing around the reservoir of Lake Arenal, and approaching the volcano of the same name. In the forest near the volcano we’ve seen lowland species such as Slaty-tailed Trogon, White-fronted Nunbird, Keel-billed Motmot, and the adorable Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher. We’ll have the later afternoon to explore these foothill habitats around the volcano on the way to our lodge. If it’s clear, the view of the volcano from our rooms is breathtaking. Night near Arenal Volcano.

Days 11–13: We’ll spend the morning of day 11 birding trails in the Arenal region. They take us through an excellent patch of foothill forest, where we hope to find Dull-mantled and Spotted Antbirds, Carmiol’s and White-throated Shrike-Tanagers, Streak-crowned Antvireo, and perhaps the rare Lattice-tailed Trogon. Great Curassow is now more common and confiding than in the past, making it almost a certain thing. After lunch near Arenal Volcano, we’ll continue to the Sarapiquí region for two full days.

On one day we’ll visit La Selva, a biological station operated by the Organization for Tropical Studies. This roughly 1,400-acre reserve is adjacent to Braulio Carrillo National Park and is managed as a natural research laboratory. About 475 species of birds have been recorded at La Selva, and although we won’t see anywhere near that many in a one-day visit, we’ll certainly experience the avian richness of the region. La Selva is an excellent place to see Great and Slaty-breasted Tinamous, Rufous and Broad-billed Motmots, Keel-billed Toucans, Pied and White-necked Puffbirds, Great and Fasciated Antshrikes, Black-throated and Gartered Trogons, Snowy Cotinga, White-ringed Flycatcher, Stripe-breasted Wren, Plain-colored Tanager, Black-headed Saltator, and Chestnut-colored, Cinnamon, and Rufous-winged Woodpeckers, among many, many others. Our visit to La Selva is likely to be an especially memorable part of the trip.

On another day we’ll visit Braulio Carrillo National Park which protects one of the last untouched expanses of Caribbean foothill forest in Central America and is only a 25-minute drive from our hotel. We’ll have all day to search the forest trails for such specialties as Lattice-tailed Trogon, Yellow-eared Toucanet, White-ruffed Manakin, Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush, and Blue-and-gold, Black-and-yellow, Emerald, Carmiol’s, White-throated Shrike-, and Tawny-crested Tanagers. With luck we may see one of the truly rare species found in the park, such as Black-crowned Antpitta or Lanceolated Monklet. We’ll likely have time to stop at a patch of roadside flowers where in past years we have found Snowcap and Black-crested Coquette. Nights in the Sarapiquí region.

Day 14: There will be time for a leisurely exploration of the often very birdy grounds of our lodge. Snowy Cotinga might be feeding in the fruiting cecropia trees near the entrance, while a check of the gravel bars on the river might reveal a Sunbittern or a Fasciated Tiger-Heron. We’ll arrive at our hotel in Heredia in time to pack and enjoy a farewell dinner. Night in Heredia.

Day 15: The tour concludes this morning in San José.

 

2026 Narrative

Costa Rica is deservedly renowned for wildlife tourism. We explored the impressive breadth of diversity this tiny country offers over the course of our tour, from chilly montane forests and rocky outcrops above the tree line in the Talamanca Mountains, to one of the most humid tropical forests on earth in the Osa Peninsula. Resplendent Quetzals impressed as always but were joined by a fantastic suite of other birds, wildlife, and experiences. A surprise adult Agami Heron featured heavily in people’s top experiences of the trip, as did an impressive evening showing of Great Green Macaws. A species rich morning on the water at Rio Tarcoles stood out as another highlight, as did the diverse range of accommodations and environments. 

Day 1: After beginning our tour with an intro meeting and dinner at the Hotel Bougainvillea, it was time to get to bed ready for an early departure the next morning. Common Pauraque’s called regularly off the balcony.

Day 2: The first full day of the tour, today we gathered early to pack the bus and leave the urban setting of San Jose. Our first destination was a dirt side road winding along the Rio Pejibaye in the lowlands Southeast of Volcán Turrialba. This little trafficked road often has plenty of flowering and fruiting trees, and is home to several tricky species. We were greeted by Keel-billed Toucans, Golden-crowned Warblers, and flocks of Montezuma and Chestnut-headed Oropendola’s as we stepped out the bus. The tiny and iconic Snowcap can often be found along here, and we soon found a pair; however, they both proved fleeting, providing brief views and never sitting still for long. Likewise the rare and local Tawny-chested Flycatcher proved too skulky to properly connect with, despite a very vocal individual close on the roadside. Before moving on to our next stop, a set of fruiting trees provided us with some nice activity, including White-collared Manakins, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Black-faced Grosbeaks, and a number of boreal migrants.

Next up, we visited the nearby hospital wetlands in Florencia. Highlights here included several close heard only Thicket Antpittas, a Snail Kite, and a excellent looks at a Bare-throated Tiger Heron alongside an assortment of more common wetland and edge species. From here, we had a longer drive to the slopes of Volcán Turrialba. A noticeable jump up in elevation to this site meant a welcome cool breeze and mild chill to the air. Activity was slow at first, but soon built up. Yellow-winged Vireos, Prong-billed Barbets, Yellowish Flycatcher, Collared Redstart, and more were seen at close range, and a particularly personable Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush kept close company at our feet. As we still had a way to go to the Savegre Hotel for the night, we made no further stops, arriving at Savegre just before dusk having enjoyed good roadside views of a Black Guan on the drive down the entrance road. After a long day, we enjoyed an excellent dinner at the hotel restaurant.

Day 3: After a busy day yesterday, we were able to relax a little more today, spending all of our time in close proximity to Savegre and the San Gerardo de Dota Valley. We were greeted by a bright, crisp morning with not a cloud in the sky. Breakfast doesn’t begin here until 6:30, giving us about half an hour to putter around the hotel grounds. A little uphill walk and some patience paid off with a pair of Spotted Wood-Quail giving nice views along the edge of the track. A pair of Chestnut-capped Brushfinch were another good addition.

Driving into the highlands of Costa Rica, it quickly becomes obvious that people are here to see one bird above all else, the Resplendent Quetzal. This spectacular species is often number one on birder’s wish list when visiting the country, and this was our first priority after breakfast. They can often be found along the main road in the valley, but usually attract large crowds here, thus we began our search on a quieter side track that climbs above the lodge. After enjoying several spurts of activity, including flocks with Spangle-cheeked Tanager, Sooty-capped Chlorospingus, and Silver-throated Tanager, a ridiculously proportioned male Resplendent Quetzal flushed directly overhead and continued out of sight. Thankfully he was quickly followed by a female, and then another male. This pair proved unbelievably cooperative, and we spent a quality hour watching as the danced around us and investigated a potential nest cavity alongside the track. A special experience with Costa Rica’s most famous natural inhabitant. The quetzals were always going to be hard to top, but we continued further up the track, adding Sulphur-winged Parakeets and Dark Pewee. On the way back down, we couldn’t help but stop again as the same pair of quetzals were again directly above the track.

With the pressure of this most important target now lifted, we took advantage of clear skies and drove out of the valley to he high point of the trip, the telecoms track, topping of at over 11,000 feet. Here we searched for the highly localized Volcano Junco and soon found a cooperative pair. Next was lunch at Paraiso Quetzal Lodge. Good food, excellent views, and some relaxing birding at the hummingbird feeders. Here, we finally properly caught up with several special high elevation hummingbirds: Fiery-throated Hummingbird, Talamanca Hummingbird, and White-throated Mountain-Gem. A pair of Black-and-Yellow Silky-Flycatchers, a Large-footed Finch, and the Costa Rican subspecies of Hairy Woodpecker were also nice. 

 We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing around the lodge before attempting some owling in the higher elevations of the valley. Unfortunately, a strong, cold wind meant we came home empty-handed, our only additions coming before the sun set in the form of Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush and Sooty Thrush. Resplendent Quetzal

Day 4: After a windy night, we awoke to a crisp, sunny morning at Savegre. We ate an early breakfast before loading the bus up to begin the journey to our next destination, the wild and remote Osa Peninsula. Before beginning our descent into the steamy lowlands, we made a quick visit to a side track off the main highway through some bamboo dominated highland forest. A cooperative group of Flame-throated Warblers were a promising start, and these were followed by Ruddy Treerunners and a boisterous band of Buffy Tuftedcheeks, all localised highland specialties shared between Costa Rica and far Western Panama. Though not new, we were all pleased to see another group of quetzals, this time three females and a male missing his signature longest tail feather.

Having savored the cool montane air one last time, it was time to begin our descent. A pleasant stop at a roadside restaurant brought drinks, snacks, and a few new birds. Violet Sabrewing, Snowy-bellied Hummingbird, and a pair of Gray-cowled Wood-Rails were particularly memorable. From here we continued into the fairly large town of San Isidro del General, where we made a hot and unsuccessful effort to see Turquoise Cotinga before heading to an excellent lunch at the nearby Latte Lounge. By this point it was getting a little late, and with a long drive ahead of us we spent the rest of the daylight hours driving and settling into our accommodation at Bosque del Rio Tigre Lodge. Nestled in a truly wild corner of the Osa Peninsula’s vast rainforest, the off the grid nature of the lodge made for a change of pace relative to the modern comforts of Savegre. A real immersion in the nature that makes this part of the world special. 

Day 5: This morning we awoke to a chorus of Common Pauraque, Lesson’s Motmot, Mantled Howler Monkeys, and more. After coffee and a quick bite to eat, we took to the trails to make most of the active, cooler morning hours. We climbed through some beautiful lowland rainforest before reaching an open ridge with a vantage over the river valley. Baird’s Trogon, Red-capped Manakins, and a small group of rowdy Black-cheeked Ant-Tanagers, a very localised species found almost exclusively on the Osa Peninsula, were some of the best finds of the morning. By nine we returned to the lodge, where we had earned a more hearty breakfast. After breakfast, temperatures were already on the rise, but we went for a drive around the local farmland and forest patches, eventually landing on a mangrove lined beach in Puerto Jimenez. Here, we enjoyed close views of Yellow-throated Toucans and raucous Scarlet Macaws alongside a suite of boreal migrants including Prothonotary Warbler and Northern Waterthrush. Magnificent Frigatebirds circled overhead. After this, it was time for lunch and a mid day siesta at the lodge, with the peaceful backdrop of the rushing clear waters of the Rio Tigre. 

As the temperature again became bearable later in the afternoon, we embarked on another trip to the ridge from this morning. With the sun beginning to lower itself across the river valley, there was plenty of activity. Highlights included King Vulture, a pair of Slaty-tailed Trogons, the range-restricted Costa Rican Swift, Fiery-billed Aracari, Spot-crowned Euphonias, and of course many Scarlet Macaws. A post-dinner night walk produced a Boat-billed Heron, a Common Pauraque, and a vocal Crested Owl.

Day 6: Our second and final full day here at Bosque del Rio Tigre Lodge, we began with a short hike down the Boat-billed Heron trail towards town and the bus. There was plenty of birdsong, including the low rumble of a Great Curassow, but visible birds were thin on the ground. We quickly made the decision to try elsewhere for better activity and found it a few kilometers down the road. We spent the next couple of hours enjoying a number of new birds, including a cooperative pair of Green Kingfishers, a Rose-throated Becard, Scrub Greenlets, Isthmian Wrens, a Yellow Tyrannulet, and much more. Despite having seen them yesterday, everyone enjoyed more close views of Fiery-billed Aracari’s too. 

After breakfast, we made a short drive to Sandalo Beach in search of mangrove specialties. On the way out, we checked out an occupied Gray-lined Hawk nest courtesy of local guide Abraham. The mangroves were hot and humid, but activity was good. A number of the newly split Mangrove Yellow Warbler were on show, as were a small family of Squirrel Monkeys, including a mother with a baby. After some extra effort, we managed to pin down a Mangrove Hummingbird, getting excellent scope views of this Costa Rican endemic. On our way back to the lodge for lunch, we came across a couple of showy Rufous-tailed Jacamars. 

A brief rain during lunch was well timed, and the sun was already back out by the time we were heading out once more. A productive afternoon walk produced great looks at Band-tailed Barbthroat, a frustrating White-crested Coquette, and a couple of good mixed flocks. 

Day 7: Having enjoyed the unique, remote nature of Bosque del Rio Tigre, today it was time to return to the comforts of connected modern life. With a long drive up the coast ahead, we departed early for our first site: the Rio Rincon bridge towards the top of the Osa. This is an excellent site for Yellow-billed Cotinga, a sharp looking and scarce cotinga almost endemic to the Costa Rican province of Puntarenas. It didn’t take long before a dusky female teed up in a dead treetop, soon followed by a couple of flyover males, striking with their pure white plumage. Other highlights included a close Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, Pale-breasted Spinetail, and our first Amazon Kingfisher. With miles to cover, we departed the Osa and began the drive up Costa Rica’s Pacific coast. After a hot and unproductive stop on a side road, we cut our losses and headed to an early and excellent lunch.

There was just enough time to squeeze one more stop into the afternoon drive to Punta Leona Nature and Beach Resort, where we were to spend the night. At first the mirador on our chosen side road was fairly quiet, producing fleeting sightings of Long-billed Starthroat and Ruby-throated Hummingbird. With some patience though, activity really ramped up despite the afternoon heat. Golden-winged Warbler, Charming Hummingbird, and a Gray Hawk feeding a fluffy chick headlined the ensemble. 

Day 8: Another travel day, today began with an unpopular early start which soon paid dividends. We took a boat out on the Rio Tarcoles estuary and turned up 108 species, making it perhaps the most numerically productive morning of the trip. Highlights were many, though rarest of all were 2 Yellow-breasted Chats together, the first record for this heavily birded hotspot. A diverse array of shorebirds included Wilson’s and Collared Plovers, and we saw all 5 of Costa Rica’s kingfisher species, including the adorable American Pygmy Kingfisher. Yellow-crowned Amazon, Northern Scrub Flycatcher, Reddish Egret, and Mangrove Vireo were all scarce additions, as was the introduced Tricolored Munia. Turquoise-browed Motmot was another crowd-pleaser. It was also pleasant to get such excellent views of so many species. Upon returning to the pier, the group enjoyed a direct comparison between several Black-headed Trogons and a couple of similar Violaceous Gartered Trogons.

After such a rapid-fire morning, our pace slowed considerably as we battled wind and heat at our next birding spots in some arid scrublands North of Tarcoles. Nonetheless, our perseverance was rewarded with a number of new birds, including Orange-fronted Parakeets, White-lored Gnatcatcher, Yellow-green Vireo, and Plain-breasted Ground-Dove.  

We continued to the port city of Puntarenas for lunch, situated on a long spit into the Gulf of Nicoya. A quick post-lunch scan of the gulf produced a couple of Cocos Booby and our first Sanderlings of the trip. After this last stop, we made our way directly to our next hotel in Monteverde. The cool breeze that greeted us as we checked in was gratefully welcomed after the heat of the Pacific lowlands.

Day 9: This morning we awoke to strong winds, never favorable for cloud forest birding. We persevered nonetheless, and spent much of the morning birding the world renowned Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. Despite the wind, the forest was atmospheric and beautiful as ever, and there were birds to be found. We enjoyed good views of Costa Rican Warbler, Spotted Barbital, Common Chlorospingus, Gray-breasted Wood-Wren, and more. We heard several more Resplendent Quetzals, as well as the musical song of Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush. The hummingbird feeders produced a Magenta-throated Woodstar and the endemic Coppery-headed Emerald. Quality views of Violet Sabrewing and Green Hermit were also appreciated. Some nearby road birding was headlined by a showy Northern Emerald-Toucanet and a Hepatic Tanager in the strange combination of misting rain and sunshine. 

A pleasant lunch at Ristorante Tramonti was followed by some rest before an afternoon outing to the somewhat drier forests below Monteverde proper. The otherworldly sounding Long-tailed Manakin proved cooperative, and we eventually managed close views of a gorgeous male. The forests were otherwise fairly quiet in the wind, so we made our way back to Ristorante Tramonti for drinks and balcony birding. Elegant Euphonias have been coming to roost here each night for years, and they continued to show well this evening. A Canivet’s Emerald and Brown-hooded Parrots were also new birds for the trip, making for a relaxing and productive evening.

Day 10: Our first site today was two and a half hours around to the East, at San Luis Canopy. There’s been an unusually reliable Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo at this reserve recently, but unfortunately the ant swarm it had been following was nowhere to be found today. Despite this, we spent an activity filled morning at the excellent feeders and trails here, seeing Blue-and-Gold Tanager, several Black-headed Nightingale Thrush, Russet Antshrike, Carmiol’s Tanager, Crimson-collared Tanager, and Emerald Tanager. After lunch, we moved a short distance up the road to a side track with healthy forest. Activity at first was minimal, but we worked at it and eventually started to bump into some birds. A Black-crested Coquette was fleeting, but a pair of unusually proportioned Long-billed Gnatwrens showed well. The best was yet to come though, as a fantastic male Bare-necked Umbrellabird soon made an appearance. This endangered, unusual cotinga is limited to a tiny range in Costa Rica and Western Panama, and is very scarce and seldom seen even within that range. Fortunately it showed well, waiting long enough to get good scope views of this special bird. At this stage, it was time to get moving so as to make it to our next hotel, Arenal Observatory Lodge, before dusk. One final brief stop was a long-shot attempt at Tody Motmot. This already scarce species is particularly rare in Costa Rica, so it was quite the surprise to almost immediately hear a response. Unfortunately, despite at times calling from very close, we were unable to get eyes on this attractive species. Having checked into our lodge, a few of us enjoyed a beautiful evening sky on the deck, looking out over Volcán Arenal and Lake Arenal.

Day 11: Arenal Observatory Lodge is home to excellent feeders, stocked generously with watermelon, and this is where we began our day. Perhaps the feeder’s most famous visitor is Great Curassow. This massive game bird is rare and shy in much of its range due to hunting pressure, but not so here. Several ungracefully attended the watermelon feeder, giving excellent views. Alongside them were a number of Crested Guans, as well as a diverse selection of smaller passerines, from Emerald Tanagers to Yellow-throated Euphonias. 

After breakfast, a walk to a waterfall on the property took us through some beautiful forest. The haunting song of Nightingale Wren was new, as were a pair of tricky Streak-crowned Antvireos. 

Having packed our bags, we checked out and moved on to a dirt road near the shore of Lake Arenal. Here, the dense, vines undergrowth again proved a challenge, as we heard more than we saw. Thicket Antpittas were numerous, and we also heard a number of Bare-crowned Antbirds. The latter did eventually give itself up a few times, but never for more than a moment. A pair of Great Antshrikes taunted us from close range on either side of the road, again only giving the occasional glimpse. Some birds were thankfully more generous, and a Broad-billed Motmot perching and feeding in the open was a highlight for all. Rufous-winged Woodpecker was also a popular find, and several diverse warbler flocks included our first Magnolia Warbler, as well as a couple of lovely Golden-winged Warblers. After lunch it was time to drive to La Selva biological station, our final accommodation before returning to San Jose. This historic research station welcomes guests in addition to many researchers and students, and is a prime  location for locating many of the special birds inhabiting the Caribbean lowlands of Costa Rica. A short walk through the forest before dinner turned up our first Northern Barred-Woodcreepers and Gray-rumped Swifts, as well as an impressive Pale-billed Woodpecker. 

Day 12: What an incredible day today was. We began at 5:45 and some ended after dusk, all without once getting on the bus or leaving La Selva biological station. Our morning began in the dim dawn light with a light sputter of rain. Our first [seen] bird was a Great Tinamou in the trail. We had heard many at this point, so everyone was pleased to finally get eyes on this dumpy inhabitant of the forest floor. Continuing up the path, we remained focussed on the open edges, and this soon paid off again, this time with a Uniform Crake. This scarce rail is sometimes heard, often at night, but is rarely seen. Much to our amazement it stayed fully in the open, allowing great views as it contentedly poked around in the damp earth at the trail edge. Off to a fantastic start already, we made our way to the dining hall for breakfast. Our next good bird didn’t wait for everyone to finish breakfast, as I found several Snowy Cotingas teed up besides the entrance road just as people were finishing up. Thankfully the cotingas were patient, and everyone was able to enjoy this scarce Caribbean slope specialty. The surrounding trees were busy, providing Black-cowled Orioles, Collared Aracari’s, and Crimson-collared Tanager. Great Green Macaws flew overhead. After a check of the bridge and another check of the entrance road, we picked up local guide Jeremy, and continued birding up the trail. We soon found more good birds, with a Cinnamon Woodpecker and a nearby Chestnut-colored Woodpecker making a suitable duo. A calling Fasciated Antshrike and White-necked Puffbird were less cooperative. Non-birds were another highlight, as we saw several Oophaga pumulio “blue jeans”- the Strawberry Poison Dart Frog, as well as Spider Monkeys and Howler Monkeys. Looping back towards lunch, the best was yet to come. Turning the corner and crossing the creek on the way back out, we were stopped in our tracks by an absolutely stunning adult Agami Heron. This shy inhabitant of quiet, shaded waterways is very rarely seen, and the adult is one of the most beautiful herons anywhere in the world. We admired the shades of blue, chestnut, and silver as it methodically moved along the bank and caught a fish. Definitely one of the birds of the trip, and the first time it had been recorded on this tour. Alongside it and somewhat overshadowed were our first Green Ibis of the trip.

Our birding after lunch had a lot to live up to, and while nothing could top an Agami Heron, we nonetheless found some excellent birds (and non-birds!). A couple of cooperative White-whiskered Puffbirds were a favorite, personable and strange as they sat motionless in the understory. A sizable Fer-de-lance, an iconic venomous snake of the tropical lowland rainforest, was fortunately seen well a safe distance from the trail. A pair of delicately patterned Spotted Antbirds performed well close to the trail before we turned our attention once again to reptiles, this time in the form of 2 different Central American eyelash-pitvipers. The first was the well camouflaged green and brown color morph, the second the much brighter gold morph. Now late afternoon, we decided it was time to finally head back, though our birding was not yet done. Before reaching our cabins, an intersection in the trail came to life. A Rufous Motmot joined a much smaller Broad-billed Motmot feeding in the middle of the path. A bit more skittish, a Gray-chested Dove made several passes too. Most distracting of all however, was a Chestnut-colored Woodpecker at nearly touching distance. Even after dinner, there was more to come, as we again found the Agami Heron, this time roosting next to the main bridge by the station.

Day 13: Running lower on options for new birds at La Selva, we decided to spend much of the morning on one of the longer trails across the river in search of an antswarm. Our first new bird was a Gray-headed Kite at the suspension bridge. Unfortunately, the trail was initially remarkably quiet. No antswarm presented itself, though the walk was saved in the second half by a few exciting finds. First, a pair of Checker-throated Stipplethroats showed of well at close range. A scarce antwren with an unobtrusive song, they are easily overlooked. Next, a Green-and-Black Dart Frog (Dendrobates auratus) brought some brilliant color to the forest floor. Much larger than the Oophaga pumulio Strawberry Poison Dart Frogs we saw yesterday and again this morning, it was more impressive than several expected and a truly beautiful frog. Last of all but all too brief, a Northern Tamandua crossed the trail right in front of us, bumbling rather clumsily across the forest floor and quickly out of sight.

Before lunch we made a quick outing in the bus, enjoying a brief respite from the heat in the air conditioning. It didn’t take long in a nearby weedy, shrubby field to find our next target, Nicaraguan Seed-Finch. The massive pale bill was remarkable if somewhat unwieldy, and its song sweet in contrast. The open habitat by the rooms was less productive, and we were unable to find Canebrake Wren before lunch. 

After a much deserved post-lunch rest in the heat of the day, we went back out at 3, this time further afield to some damp weedy fields about 30 minutes Southeast. The bumpy ride out was quickly proved worthwhile, as we quickly added several new birds. First, a Thick-billed Seed-Finch showed well, singing melodically. Next, our main target, the local Canebrake Wren, made itself known. At first calling from a dense thicket, it wasn’t long before several popped up in the open on the roadside, giving better views than almost any other wren on the trip. A flock of Olive-throated Parakeets was the next addition, before patience paid off with several attractive Olive-crowned Yellowthroats being lured into view. It was time to return for dinner, but the action was far from over. We were shortly halted in our tracks by close roadside Great Green Macaws, by far our best views of this massive iconic parrot. A short distance further down the road, a quick pause for our first White-lined Tanagers soon became a much longer stop as we noticed a Pied Puffbird. After a bit of work, we managed to get scope views for all of this boldly marked, rotund little puffbird. Despite the delays, we made it back just in time for our final dinner at La Selva.

Day 14: The final day of the tour was a busy one. Breakfast at La Selva was birds as usual, with another Snowy Cotinga and several Green Ibis perhaps the best finds before we packed up the bus for one final time. Before leaving the property, one last bird was determined to make it onto the list, with a pair of Rufous-naped Wood-Rail crossing the driveway in front of us.

After an hour’s drive, we had gained some elevation and found ourselves descending on a narrow gravel track into a picturesque, steep-sloped rainforest valley. The cool air and sunshine made for a pleasant environment, and the birding was active. Mixed flocks of wintering boreal migrants were joined by the likes of Collared Trogon, White-ruffed Manakin, Northern Plain-Xenops, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, and more. A Purple-crowned Fairy nest overhanging the road was a fun way to add yet another new hummingbird species for the trip. The bridge and river at the bottom of the valley was a natural pause in our walk, and we spotted a Torrent Tyrannulet in the river below. Thermals were in heavy use too, with the many Black and Turkey Vultures joined by 3 Barred Hawks, a Short-tailed Hawk, Broad-winged Hawks, and several Swallow-tailed Kites. A scarce and skulky specialist of shaded gullies, the song of a nearby Sooty-faced Finch was worth following. After some patience, this attractive olive and chestnut brushfinch popped up in the open on the roadside. A cute pair of Tufted Flycatchers nearby were also pleasant. 

Our lunch stop, Soda Cinchona, also doubled as a birding spot. The excellent feeders drew in a Northern Emerald Toucanet, Red-headed and Prong-billed Barbets, and a Green Thorntail. A pair of Bat Falcons on a prominent perch across the valley were a good spot, and the waterfall views added to the interest. A quick post-lunch roadside stop held a beautiful pair of Blackburnian Warblers, as well as our first Red-faced Spinetails. It was then time to finally wind our way through the narrow streets of San Jose to our hotel for our final dinner and goodbyes before early flights the next morning.

Day 15: Departures via San Jose Airport this morning.

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