Ecuador: Northwest Andes in Summer

The Andes of northwest Ecuador have some of the best and most accessible birding locations in all of South America, and they just keep getting better every year. This fairly short tour based in the Mindo-Tandayapa area offers a superb look at the incredible bird diversity of the Chocó bioregion that will delight first time visitors to Ecuador and returning travelers alike.

Our tour will spend time at two outstanding and comfortable accommodations: Bellavista Cloud Forest Lodge, situated in the upper subtropical zone above the Tandayapa Valley, and El Séptimo Paraíso, lower in the Mindo Valley. Both locations are excellent bases from which to explore the surrounding areas, and also have great birding right on the grounds. Among the localities we’ll visit are the Tandayapa Valley, Mindo, Mashpi, the Paz de las Aves reserve, and the forest preserves at Yanacocha, Milpe, Silanche, and Amagusa. During our eight days of birding we should encounter about 300 species, possibly including some of western Ecuador’s most celebrated: Toucan Barbet, Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Giant Antpitta, Oilbird, Lyre-tailed Nightjar, Andean Cock-of-the-rock, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, and as many as 40 species of hummingbirds and 50 dazzling tanagers overall. Finally, on top of the amazing birds, another highlight will be the chance to meet and bird with some of the local entrepreneurs who have established the small reserves that help make birding so accessible and enjoyable in Ecuador, while conserving the important natural habitats of their home region at the same time.

Day 1: The tour begins at 6:30 p.m. in Puembo near Quito’s international airport. Night in Puembo.

Day 2: We’ll leave early this morning to drive across the city of Quito toward the temperate cloud forests on the outer slopes of Pichincha Volcano. Our destinations will be Zuro Loma and Yanacocha, two nearby reserves that are home to several interesting high-elevation species. We’ll watch the hummingbird feeders for the iconic Sword-billed Hummingbird, bossy Buff-winged Starfrontlet, and elegant Shining Sunbeam. Tanagers are abundant at this elevation, and we’ll especially hope to find mountain-tanagers, such as Scarlet-bellied, Hooded, and possibly the rare Black-chested. With luck we may be able to see Equatorial, Tawny, or Chestnut-naped Antpitta. After lunch at Yanacocha we’ll descend below the town of Nono through breathtaking temperate and subtropical forest along the famous Nono-Mindo road. Here we’ll look for White-capped Dipper and roadside mixed-species flocks containing a variety of tanagers, flycatchers, warblers, and other birds. We’ll arrive in the late afternoon at Bellavista Cloud Forest, our home for two nights. Night at Bellavista.

Day 3: On our full day based at Bellavista, we’ll concentrate on birding the upper subtropical cloud forest around the lodge and in the adjacent Tandayapa Valley, without the need to drive very far at all. We’ll begin by birding right outside our cabins, where eye-catching Turquoise Jays, Blue-winged Mountain-Tanagers, Masked Trogons, and Strong-billed Woodcreepers frequently visit an insect light at dawn in search of their breakfast. The scarce White-faced Nunbird and gaudy Toucan Barbet occasionally put in an appearance as well. Hummingbird feeders at Bellavista and nearby properties attract an outrageous variety of hummingbirds, including gems like White-booted Racket-tail, Collared Inca, Andean Emerald, Purple-throated Woodstar, and Buff-tailed Coronet. Walking along the road can bring exhilarating birding too, and we’ll hope to encounter mixed flocks that might hold Grass-green Tanager, Cinnamon Flycatcher, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, and Green-and-black Fruiteater. The striking Crested Quetzal and the incomparable Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan are both possible here. Night at Bellavista.

Day 4: Our second morning at Bellavista comes with an early excursion to look for the tricky, phantom-like Tanager Finch, a large sparrow known in Ecuador only from a handful of sites. After returning to the lodge for breakfast and a last chance to enjoy the bird activity at the feeders, we’ll check out with a pack lunch and take a longer drive (around 1.5 hours) down into the Guayllabamba River Valley to visit a dark and mysterious grotto home to a colony of Oilbirds that spend the daylight hours resting on steep rock ledges above a rushing mountain stream. These unique and bizarre birds, superficially similar to nightjars, are the only nocturnal, frugivorous bird species in the world, and they are known to use echolocation like bats! Their abrupt shrieking vocalizations combined with the somewhat spooky ambience of their hideout will provide for a memorable experience. After our visit with the Oilbirds we’ll have the rest of the day to make our way to Mindo; we may head straight for our lodge to check in or we may make some roadside birding stops en route. By late afternoon we’ll arrive at El Séptimo Paraíso Lodge, our home for the next five nights. Night at Séptimo Paraíso.

Days 5-8: We’ll have four full days to explore several of the most famous birding locations in northwest Ecuador. One morning we’ll depart before dawn to visit an Andean Cock-of-the-rock lek. The number of brilliant males attending the lek varies from day to day but the experience is never less than fascinating. We’ll visit the now-famous reserve managed by local farmer Angel Paz, where we hope to see a number of antpittas (Giant, Ochre-breasted, Chestnut-crowned, Moustached, and Yellow-breasted Antpittas are all possible) and other normally hard-to-see species.

On another morning we’ll visit the magical cloud forests of the Mashpi area, set at a similar elevation to the Mindo-Tandayapa area but on a different ridge of the Andes. This area is home to the marvelous Mashpi Amagusa Reserve, and hosts a plethora of species endemic to the Chocó bioregion of western Ecuador and adjacent Colombia, including Moss-backed Tanager, Black Solitaire, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, Pacific Tuftedcheek, Chocó Vireo, and Indigo Flowerpiercer.

We’ll be sure to descend at least once to the steamy lower foothills, where diversity is highest and we can encounter a different range of birds. Here, widespread rainforest species are found alongside some Central American specialties at the southern end of their range and some species endemic to the Chocó region. We’ll search for prizes such as Orange-fronted Barbet, Guayaquil Woodpecker, Blue-tailed and Gartered Trogons, Purple-chested Hummingbird, and uncommon tanagers like Gray-and-gold, Scarlet-browed, and Dusky-faced.

Our lodge, El Séptimo Paraíso, is situated in a forested valley with good birding possibilities on the grounds and nearby, and we’ll hope to run into mixed-species flocks containing Spotted Woodcreeper, Red-faced Spinetail, Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner, Slaty-capped Flycatcher, and Yellow-throated Chlorospingus. Also found around the lodge are some sought-after birds like Golden-headed Quetzal, Crested Guan, and Crimson-rumped Toucanet.

Hummingbird diversity is extremely high in the cloud forests of northwest Ecuador, and we can find 10 or more species at several sites. Given the popularity of hummingbird feeders at many small, local reserves, we can expect closeup encounters with extraordinary Chocó endemics like Violet-tailed Sylph, Empress Brilliant, Velvet-purple Coronet, Brown Inca, and Purple-bibbed Whitetip, surely a highlight experience. Nights at Séptimo Paraíso.

Day 9: We have the morning to look for anything special we may have missed, or we may visit a new area. Depending on the day’s program we may check out of Séptimo Paraso after breakfast or after lunch. In the afternoon we’ll drive back toward Quito, perhaps stopping in the arid country outside the city to search for a few species that we won’t see elsewhere. Possible species at this site include Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch, Band-tailed Seedeater, Golden Grosbeak, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, and Black-tailed Trainbearer. We’ll arrive back at our airport hotel in the late afternoon in time to rest a bit before a delicious farewell dinner. Night in Tababela.

Day 10: The trip ends this morning with transfers to the airport.

• 2026 Narrative
• 2025 Narrative

2026 Narrative

Day 1: While the tour began officially with dinner at our hotel near the airport, early arrivals enjoyed specialties of the dry scrub around the hotel grounds, including Scrub Tanager, Blue-and-Yellow Tanager, Western Emerald, and Black-tailed Trainbearer.

Day 2: Our first proper day, we began with an almost 2 hour drive across and West of Quito. Here, our first stop was Reserva Zuroloma. Tucked into the edge of an agricultural valley, the star of the stunted, bamboo-filled forest here is a friendly pair of the otherwise scarce Chestnut-naped Antpitta. Sure enough, we were almost immediately greeted with close views of the pair. An equally friendly and personable pair of Equatorial Antpittas soon joined the fray, meanwhile, we were overwhelmed by the diversity of new hummingbirds attending the feeders in front of us and struggled to choose where to look. Fortunately, we were in no rush and spent quality time studying each new species over the next couple of hours. Amongst the dozens of Sparkling Violetears, we enjoyed unwieldy Sword-billed Hummingbirds, flashy Sapphire-vented Pufflegs, a scarce Green-tailed Trainbearer, and many more. On the way back to the parking lot, we paused to wait for a Purple-backed Thornbill that had been seen earlier. This scarce denizen of high-elevation cloud forest is a psychedelic purple and green, exceptionally vivid even by the high standards of the hummingbird world. As we patiently waited, Red-crested Cotingas and Spectacled Redstarts provided a pleasant distraction. Running short on time, the Thornbill appeared at long last just as we were ready to give up, not wanting to be missed. With a last look at Andean Lapwings in the car park, we were off to Reserva Yanacocha for lunch and more birding.

Our bird of the day chose the unlikely location of the Yanacocha entrance road by the parking lot to make its appearance. Much to our amazement, a dumpy, warm brown bird flushed by the van turned out to be the incredibly rare and enigmatic Imperial Snipe. Normally only seen on dedicated pre-dawn excursions to the tree line while displaying, a sunny road in the middle of the day was not where it was supposed to be. Fortunately, it flushed only a short distance and gave everyone time to get a look as it tucked itself into the road edge, melting into the bank. Once we had collected ourselves from the excitement, it was time for lunch and a walk. The restaurant feeders held our first Black-chested Mountain-Tanager along with close views of Shining Sunbeam. Due to dinner and check-in commitments, we were short on time to walk to the far feeders, thus missing Golden-breasted Puffleg. Despite this, our walk was productive. Scattered flocks produced Golden-crowned Tanager, Rufous Wren, White-throated Tyrannulet, and more. Once back at the van, it was time for the two-and-a-half-hour drive West (just 15km in a straight line, but our route was anything but straight). On the way we had few stops, but a family of White-capped Dippers did put on an impressive show. Night at Bellavista.

Day 3: We began this morning at dawn in the Bellavista car park. Here, in addition to hummingbird and fruit feeders, a moth light doubled as an excellent feeder for insectivores. Greedy Turquoise Jays were the first to take their pick, flushing dozens of moths in the dim dawn light. The jays were soon joined by a rush of activity encompassing Striped Treehunter, Russet-crowned Warbler, Choco Brushfinch, Montane Woodcreeper, and many more, all intent on the abundance of moths. A vocal male Golden-headed Quetzal taunted us before finally sallying into view, allowing close study in the scope. A brief Beryl-spangled Tanager added to the more cooperative Golden, Golden-naped, Blue-winged Mountain, and Flame-faced Tanagers for the morning. A pair of Toucan Barbets delighted, as did a Masked Trogon at touching distance.

After breakfast, we drove up the road and were dropped off a couple of kilometers from the lodge. Over the next few hours we slowly birded our way back in mostly sunny, pleasant weather. The main target of the walk, Crested Quetzal, was found early. A vocal pair gave decent scope views, making for a double quetzal species morning. A surprise Yellow-vented Woodpecker, Grass-Green Tanager, and Green-and-Black Fruiteater in quick succession were hardly cooperative but were nonetheless enjoyable. Closer to the lodge, we stopped at an open viewpoint in the hopes of raptor activity. A Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan called distantly from across the valley but sadly didn’t show itself. After a few minutes, high pitched cries from above alerted us to a Barred Hawk, soon followed by an even more exciting White-rumped Hawk.
 Having missed it in the morning, Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan remained the main target for the afternoon. With this in mind, we bumped our way slowly to Guaycapi Lodge. The excellent feeders here are often good for the toucan, and are more than exciting enough even without the star of the show. Clouds of hummingbirds comprising 16 species swarmed the feeders alongside dozens of colorful tanagers. New species included Velvet-purple Coronet, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Brown Inca, Green-crowned Brilliant, and Rufous-tailed Hummingbird. Black-winged Saltator, White-winged Brushfinch, and Black-capped Tanager were also all new. Altogether, a truly overwhelming number of birds at our fingertips made for a special experience. After well over an hour, the Plate-billed Mountain Toucan suddenly appeared right in front of us, showing off before eventually making its way to the feeder to inhale bananas in a less-than-elegant manner. The unique color palette and ornate features make this truly one of the best birds in the world. It was on this note we finished the day’s birding, though dusk brought a few final treats. First, Rufous-bellied Nightjar foraging above the restaurant, and then during dinner the appearance of the recently described Olinguito at a banana feeder.  This fluffy cloud-forest mammal is a small relative of raccoons. Night at Bellavista.

Day 4: Again beginning at 6 am, this morning we first made our way to where we had seen Crested Quetzal the day before, though this time in the vague hope of seeing the rare Tanager Finch. Upon arrival, a Tanager Finch was actively singing in the dim early light, but alas would not show itself in the thick understory. The forest here is cool and subject to near-constant mist or rain. Plant life hasn’t spared even an inch: orchids and moss coat each and every tree, making for a quintessential cloud-forest wonderland. Streaked Tuftedcheek and another couple of Grass-Green Tanagers made brief cameos in a flock otherwise dominated by Pearled Treerunners. A little further up the road, a Powerful Woodpecker’s far-carrying double knock could be heard from across the valley. Beryl-spangled Tanagers gave somewhat better views than yesterday before Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant finally made itself known. This rotund little flycatcher has a bright yellow belly and bold yellow brows, and we were treated to an excellent showing from a family group.

After breakfast at Bellavista, it was time to slowly descend towards Mindo. The sky was remarkably clear, and bird activity was minimal. Once we had settled into Séptimo Paraíso, our accommodation for the remainder of the tour, we sat down for lunch and hummingbird feeders, adding White-whiskered Hermit and Crowned Woodnymph and enjoying the likes of White-booted Racket-tail and Violet-tailed Sylph. Having totaled an impressive 15 species of hummingbird species at the feeder, it was time to move on. A low-traffic side road 20 minutes West began with good activity in some edge habitat. A flurry of new birds included Pale-billed Aracari, Black-striped Sparrow, Pacific Hornero, and perched Bronze-winged Parrots. As we continued, we picked up more new birds. Choco and Yellow-throated Toucans were both seen and heard well, and a tree filled with 29 Swallow-tailed Kites was memorable. Particularly popular was a showy perched Rose-faced Parrot. On the way back to Séptimo Paraíso, we had stopped for a perched Laughing Falcon when we noticed air escaping one of our tires. This put an end to the day’s birding, but was thankfully far from catastrophic as we were able to make it to a tire shop and get it repaired before it had truly gone flat. Night at Séptimo Paraíso.

Day 5: Moth sheets such as the one at Bellavista are truly fabulous feeders and allow for close views of otherwise tricky species. We began today’s birding in a hide at the nearby Sachatamia Lodge, home to a particularly productive moth sheet. Among the first visitors to the sheet were a sharp pair of Chestnut-capped Brushfinch and the impressively sized Strong-billed Woodcreeper. These were soon joined by the bright flash of a Tawny-breasted Flycatcher and the equally eye-catching headlights of an Ornate Flycatcher. Still brighter yet was an absurdly brilliant Glistening-green Tanager. Close views of Rufous Motmot and Masked Trogon were also popular, and it was enjoyable to properly study some of the more subtle insectivores which are otherwise tricky to see up close. Spotted Barbtails crept around the bark and moss but were dwarfed by several larger furnariids, including Streak-capped Treehunter and Lineated Foliage-Gleaner. Our first Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant likewise proved showy. A much hoped-for Long-wattled Umbrellabird never appeared, but thankfully this was our first, not last, chance at this enigmatic species. 

Back at the lodge we enjoyed a relaxed breakfast before heading out on a walk of the grounds. The forest along the driveway can be productive, and this morning was no exception. Highlights included Ashy-headed Tyrannulet, Slaty Antwren, and good scope views of Red-billed Parrot to supplement the many fleeting flyover views over the past few days. 14 species of hummingbirds attended the feeders, including White-booted Racket-tail and Velvet-purple Coronet. After lunch, our next destination was Milpe, a short distance away. Having enjoyed a warm, sunny morning, the weather took a turn, and we were soon sheltering at the Milpe feeders as heavy rain began and showed no sign of stopping. A couple of tiny Green Thorntails provided a bright spot, but after an hour of nonstop rain we decided to move on and hope for better weather elsewhere. Our chosen backup spot was a side road in Mindo with pastures and edge habitat. The rain continued, but was much lighter here, and we were able to bird without trouble. A recently cut field was full of opportunists enjoying the bounty of insect life, including a sharp pair of Masked Water-Tyrants. Despite being no relation, this flycatcher bears more than a passing relation to Finsch’s Wheatear. These were joined by a lovely Fawn-breasted Tanager and Giant Cowbirds. Vivid sky blue Swallow Tanagers did their best cotinga impressions in a nearby treetop; meanwhile, a couple of much duller Mouse-gray Flycatchers were nonetheless new. Before returning to the lodge, there was time for one more highlight. A White-throated Crake responded close to the road and eventually showed well in the roadside ditch. This diminutive rallid is boldly marked, colorful, and full of personality. Night at Séptimo Paraíso.

Day 6: The most diverse day of the tour, this morning we began pre-dawn with a drive to Silanche in the lowlands. This reserve is most notably home to an observation tower which facilitates views of mixed flocks in the canopy which would otherwise be frustrating and neck-breaking. The tradeoff is that you have to patiently wait for the birds to come to you. Over the next few hours we racked up over 80 species from this little platform as wave after wave of new birds arrived. Blue-whiskered and Scarlet-browed Tanagers put on a show, as did a locally scarce female Fulvous-vented Euphonia. Blue-tailed and White-tailed Trogons called but remained frustratingly out of sight. Somewhat more helpful were a pair of Broad-billed Motmots which were eventually coaxed in to eye level, where they stayed for extended views. Charming and tiny, Olivaceous Piculets were enjoyable as they poked around at eye level. The seemingly never-ending stream of new birds further included Greenish Elaenia, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant, Orange-fronted Barbet, Golden-hooded Tanager, Yellow-tufted Dacnis, Cryptic Becard, Masked Tityra, Black-striped Woodcreeper, Northern Barred-Woodcreeper, Russet Antshrike, Dot-winged Antwren, and many more. Lesser Swallow-tailed and Grey-rumped Swifts wheeled overhead. Back in the carpark for a picnic lunch, we continued to add, with a large, noisy gathering of Tawny-crested Tanagers. After lunch we took a short but hilly walk in the lowland heat and were thankfully rewarded with yet more good new birds. Best of all was a rare and range-restricted Gray-backed Hawk. 

Next it was time to move on and do our best to push through the afternoon sunshine and heat. A first quick stop was unfortunately quiet, only adding White-browed Gnatcatcher, and better views of Ochre-breasted Flycatcher. The next spot, closer to the cooling bank of a river, was significantly more active. The back-up siren song of a Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo was soon followed by close views of this striking yellow and slate vireo. Its shrike-like bill and piercing electric green eyes added to the imposing look. Locally rare Choco Elaenia’s and Pacific Flatbill added to the fun, as did a massive Guayaquil Woodpecker which appeared as we were finally attempting to leave. The exit to the road provided one final prize in the form of a well(?) photographed pair of Ecuadorian Ground-Doves. 

Fortunately the day was not yet finished, and a final stop at the feeders of Sendero Frutti Tour lived up to the day’s sky-high standards. New species continued to pile up one after another: Black-breasted Mango, Orange-crowned Euphonia, Pacific Parrotlet, Scarlet-backed Woodpecker, and more. An eye-catching Red-billed Scythebill made for a fitting finale to a day with around 130 species, all at low elevation. A short owling session turned up heard only Rufescent Screech-Owl. Night at Séptimo Paraíso.

Day 7: Today we set off early for Paz de las Aves of antpitta fame. It was here that Ángel and Rodrigo Paz pioneered the now widespread practice of feeding antpittas, thus bringing to life the definitive eco-tourism success story of the region. Without their unparalleled dedication and hard work, these birds would be nearly impossible to see. Our first target was not one of the famed antpittas, but the otherworldly Andean Cock-of-the-Rock. These gaudy chicken-sized birds of the cloud forest are rightly a bucket-list species for many. The lek did not disappoint this morning, and we were treated to a good number of males displaying and at close range too. Before leaving Paz de las Aves, we were also able to see a female on a nest beneath a bridge. The combination of looks, otherworldly sounds and antics, as well as cave-nesting, makes this species among the most bizarre and alluring in the world.

Next it was time for patience as Rodrigo and Ángel went off in search of a Giant Antpitta. As we waited and were maneuvered into position, we enjoyed nesting Golden-headed Quetzals and an Olivaceous Piha. After a little more waiting, we were told the Giant Antpitta here was not showing and we were to try another site lower down on the property. Fortunately, once at this second site it wasn’t long before Rodrigo was coaxing Maria, the famous female Giant Antpitta, to the edge of the path. Lured with a generous helping of worms, Maria proceeded to show off on an improvised moss-covered perch in the trail for several minutes, allowing extended close views of this otherwise mythical species. This most tricky of Antpittas seen, it was time for breakfast before another helping of antpittas. Next up was Yellow-breasted, and they did not prove easy. Ángel, Rodrigo, and Andy worked hard with little reward for the best part of 40 minutes before this rotund, warm colored antpitta finally showed himself. Their effort and patience are unmatched and are undoubtedly what has made this special place the long-lasting success that it is. Last up was “Shakira” the Ochre-breasted Antpitta. This particularly tiny antpitta earned its nickname from the constant side-to-side “dance” it routinely performs. While Esteban worked his magic, we enjoyed a fruiting tree loaded with Crimson-rumped Toucanets, a showy Scaled Fruiteater, and Andean Solitaires. Shakira soon showed herself, making for an adorable end to our antpitta-filled morning. On the drive out, we made a final stop to check a bridge in the driveway and were rewarded with a roosting Lyre-tailed Nightjar. A more low-key afternoon around Milpe produced a frustrating Esmeraldas Antbird and a more cooperative Rufous-gaped Hillstar. Night at Séptimo Paraíso.

Day 8: Our final full day in the Mindo area before returning toward Quito; today we began with our earliest start of the tour to facilitate a visit to perhaps my favorite of all the excellent reserves here in Northwest Ecuador, Reserva Amagusa. Run by locals Sergio and Doris, the feeders here are outstanding even in the context of this extraordinary corner of the world. The early start allowed us to begin at dawn with the moth sheet and it wasn’t long before it had proved its worth. Zeledon’s Antbirds, Collared Trogon, and Pacific Tuftedcheek hopped around in the open and a Broad-billed Motmot sat contently in the glow of the moth light. A bunch of bananas just feet in front of us quickly gathered dozens of Rose-faced Parrots, and another fruit feeder to our right was alive with color: Glistening-green, Golden-naped, and Flame-faced Tanagers were joined by an ensemble of new tanagers. Tiny Rufous-throated Tanagers contrasted with the large and colorful Black-chinned Mountain-Tanagers. A real specialty of the site, we were pleased to enjoy several close Moss-backed Tanagers. Actually a cardinal, a pair of White-winged Tanagers sported a tropical take on White-winged Crossbill’s plumage. Less colorful but nonetheless satisfying were Cinnamon and female One-colored Becards, whose tricky structure-based identification we came to terms with over the morning. A pair of Golden-collared Honeycreepers would normally be a highlight but were somewhat lost in the onslaught of new species. Another marquee species of the site, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, popped up several time on the periphery of the feeding area. Yet another feeder in our balcony view here was a bowl of corn at the back edge of the opening. Plump White-throated Quail-Doves and a well fed Agouti had thus far monopolized the bowl, but as some participants filtered off for breakfast breaks a group of secretive Dark-backed Wood-Quail took their turn. After some gathering and patience everyone in the group enjoyed looks at these funny little socialites of the understory. The icing on the cake also arrived with most of the group away at breakfast- a young male Long-wattled Umbrellabird made a sudden and ungraceful entry behind the opening. Fortunately it came to stay, and soon we were all well acquainted with this bizarre member of the cotinga family.

It was with great difficulty we eventually dragged ourselves away from the balcony feeders, but drag we must as the entrance road is also home to some special species. Shrouded in mist, the forest was alive with activity. Plain-backed and Scaled Antpittas were vocal and after extensive effort we were eventually able to obtain looks at choco specialty Indigo Flowerpiercer and Uniform Treehunter.

As much as I could happily spend all day at Amagusa, we had more birds to see and we took our lunch to nearby Sachaguatusa. This newer reserve sports a well-manicured picnic area complete with a photography-ready fruit feeder. As we settled into lunch, it wasn’t long before both our main targets here showed well. First a gorgeous pair of Emerald Tanagers alighted amongst the more common Bay-headed and Blue-gray Tanagers before a trio of Gray-and-Gold Tanagers joined the party. With lunch and tanagers enjoyed, it was time to finally work a bit for some birds before returning to the lodge. We set off on foot down the hill along the dirt road, stopping for pockets of activity. A pleasant breeze made the temperature surprisingly bearable for a lowland afternoon, and the highlights were numerous. A bizarre and expressive Barred Puffbird stole the show, but Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Yellow-bellied Siskins, and more Gray-and-Gold Tanagers were all appreciated. Night at Séptimo Paraíso.

Day 9: A slightly later start than usual, we left Séptimo for the final time at 6 this morning. After putting some miles behind us in the direction of Quito and the airport, we turned down a narrow track into a high-elevation, bamboo-filled valley at the edge of Pululahua Geobotanical Reserve. Tucked into the steep, shaded slopes of the valley, the air was crisp and chilly and birdsong surrounded us. The rich, liquid duet of Plain-tailed Wrens dominated, and we enjoyed glimpses of vocal Ash-colored and Blackish Tapaculos. A Smoky Bush-Tyrant briefly appeared on the ridge, soon followed by Grass-green Tanagers and sparring Sword-billed Hummingbirds overhead. The clear whistled song of Buff-banded Mountain-Tanager added to the scene, but the bird itself evaded visual detection. Black-crested Warblers were somewhat more obliging, poking around in vine tangles at eye level while singing their accelerating chippy song. As we continued lower into the valley we were on the lookout for the lush, dark gullies favored by Leymebamba Antpitta. This rare antpitta is scarce across its range, but is found almost exclusively in Peru. The population here is tiny, geographically isolated, and notably different to the Peruvian birds. Their call is slower, and the color is a significantly paler buff than the rich rust color of the Peruvian population. A few kilometers later, a dimly lit stream bed with a mix of bamboo and lush, mossy understory looked ideal. Sure enough, we soon had several Leymebamba Antpittas calling in close proximity. Unfortunately, only part of the group were able to get looks despite some effort, but we all heard them well. More cooperative were a pair of Gray-browed Brushfinch at the same spot.

Having turned the van around, it was time to go over the ridge to the dramatically drier habitats at the Hipódromo Calacalí- a former horse racetrack at the edge of Quito. Unfortunately, this proved less productive than we had hoped. A strong, gusting wind was unrelenting and made even the common birds here extremely challenging. A brief Black-chested Buzzard Eagle was soon blown over the ridge. Ash-breasted Sierra Finch was the only new bird seen well, and we quickly cut our losses and headed for lunch. Our restaurant at El Crater had astounding views of the caldera of Pululahua, but the sustained wind meant there were few avian distractions.

In light of the weather conditions, we gambled on an unplanned visit to a site on the other side of Quito which we hoped would provide a more sheltered note to end the tour on. It was not looking promising as we climbed up the opposite side of the valley towards Papallacta pass. The pass itself was likewise windswept and chilly, though cloud cover was a welcome change. After adding Plumbeous Sierra Finch at the top, we descended to a small polylepis forest patch where we were finally out of the wind. A cliff above us was oriented perfectly to protect against the gusts and continued cloud cover meant the spot was soon producing new birds. A friendly Stout-billed Cinclodes was particularly rewarding, especially for the photographers. Some patience at a patch of purple flowers proved worthwhile as a stunning male Rainbow-bearded Thornbill soon alighted at close range, showing off its namesake gorget. This was soon followed by the frantic action of a mixed flock. Black-backed Bush-Tanagers were joined by Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, White-throated Tyrannulet, and Pearled Treerunner.  Last but certainly not least, a pair of Giant Conebills were a suitable note to end the tour on. This chestnut and slate polylepis specialist is always scarce and always exciting to find. With that it was time to descend half an hour to our hotel by the airport for a final dinner. Night in Puembo.

Day 10: Flights out this morning.

Back to Narratives

2025 Narrative

Our 2025 Northwest Ecuador in Summer tour was action-packed and full of amazing sightings, enhanced by the dramatic landscapes of steep Andean slopes smothered by lush cloud forest. The group, a mix of Neotropical first-timers and seasoned travelers, got along effortlessly and made for great company throughout the trip. We enjoyed favorable weather, with little rain and delightfully cool temperatures that are typical of “verano” (Ecuador’s dry season), perhaps accentuated by an unusual polar air mass that had a widespread influence across the southern half of South America in June and July. The birding was full of highlights, with iconic South American species like Oilbird, Giant Antpitta, Golden-headed Quetzal, and Andean Cock-of-the Rock headlining a list of lifetime memories. We also observed an impressive number of regional specialties endemic to the wet Chocó bioregion, which spans northwest Ecuador and southwest Colombia, including the Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Black Solitaire, Long-wattled Umbrellbird, Velvet-purple Coronet, and Toucan Barbet, among others. During the tour we tallied over 40 species of both hummingbirds and tanagers, and we saw six species of antpittas, marking a resounding success with these popular families. Finally, the birding was complemented by the company and professionalism of our fantastic driver Edwin, and the warmth of the many entrepreneurs operating the small birding businesses of the region. It sure was a memorable trip!

Day 1 - Several of the participants arrived a day early and enjoyed a birding day trip to the high-elevation habitats around Antisana National Park. The whole group gathered for our introductory meeting and a delicious dinner at the hotel. Some characteristic urban birds of the Quito metropolitan area were at home on the hotel grounds as well: Rufous-collared Sparrow, Eared Dove, Great Thrush, and Vermilion Flycatcher.

Day 2 - We began early, driving across urban Quito in the twilight hour, and over to the outer western slope before the city awoke. At our first stop we did a little roadside birding, finding Black-crested Warbler, Andean Guan, and Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager. But before long we had to continue upward to Zuro Loma, where we spent a couple of hours at this private reserve facing Pichincha Volcano, which was enshrouded in clouds at the top. Our host Silvio was able to bring both Chestnut-naped and Equatorial Antpitta into view for incredible views, and although the hummingbird feeders did not have many customers, we did see a few individuals of the common species at this elevation, like Sparkling Violetear, Collared Inca, White-bellied Woodstar, and the incomparable Sword-billed Hummingbird. After Zuro Loma we headed farther upslope to Yanacocha, set in temperate cloud forest at over 11,000’. A slow walk along the Inca track was mostly quiet, but produced a pair of Barred Fruiteaters, a large group of Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers, and an amazing close observation of Variable Hawk. We also took in the many high Andean flowers in bloom. After our walk we enjoyed a wonderful lunch prepared at the reserve and spent a little while watching the feeders. There wasn’t a lot of action, but a Yellow-breasted Brushfinch delighted us with its bright colors and the energetic Shining Sunbeams kept us entertained as they guarded the nectar. For the remainder of the afternoon, we made our way down the old Nono-Mindo road, making a few short stops and eventually finishing our day at Bellavista cloud Forest Lodge, where we noted the new hummingbirds at the feeders: Gorgeted Sunangel, Speckled Hummingbird, and copious Buff-tailed Coronets.

Day 3 - This morning saw us gather before dawn to start at Bellavista’s moth light. Turquoise Jays came in first, then a Golden-bellied Flycatcher appeared, and the parade of new species continued for the better part of an hour: Russet-crowned Warbler, Chestnut-capped Brushfinch, Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager, Streaked Treehunter, Cinnamon Flycatcher, and many others delighted our group. A pair of Chestnut-crowned Antpittas stole the show when they appeared at the edge of the parking lot and eventually emerged to forage in the open! But even they were upstaged when a spectacular Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan dropped in to visit the fruit feeder. We attempted to see the exceptionally loud family group of Plain-tailed Wrens that could be heard belting out their remarkable song from the bamboo patch below the lodge, but they were too quick for most to get binoculars on. After breakfast, we drove uphill a bit and took a walk on the road to the research station through lush and stunningly beautiful cloud forest. New birds that we encountered included Golden-headed Quetzal, Glossy-black Thrush, and Green-and-black Fruiteater. As a patch of low clouds settled over the ridge and enveloped the canopy, we debated whether the Grass-green Tanager was green at all or if it was actually black. The main event of the afternoon was a visit to the quiet Pacha Quinde reserve down the road, where from the deck we found some new hummingbirds like Andean Emerald, Brown Violetear, and the tiny Purple-throated Woodstar. We also saw our first Crimson-rumped Toucanet and our only White-winged Brushfinch of the tour. Later in the afternoon, while walking on the upper road, we briefly encountered a Powerful Woodpecker, and the last bird of the day was a Crimson-mantled Woodpecker that called out as we returned to the lodge, and afforded decent views as it foraged in a cecropia. 

Day 4 - We began with a pre-dawn visit to the upper road above the lodge. This turned out to be more of a listening experience than anything, as we enjoyed hearing classic cloud forest sounds like Wattled Guan, Giant Antpitta, and Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush. The triumph of seeing a Spillman’s Tapaculo was a highlight for some. Back at the lodge for breakfast, a Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan dropped into the feeder to grab some fruit to feed its dependent juvenile, and then we departed to lower elevations. At the Finca Morales, we found plenty of new birds for the trip, including Pacific Hornero, Masked Tityra, Yellow-faced Grassquit, Boat-billed Flycatcher, and a pair of striking Masked Water-Tyrants. A group of 50 or more Swallow-tailed Kites glided along the ridge nearby, providing an amazing spectacle. After picking up our host Marcia, we continued down to Chontal, Imbabura for the main event of the day: a visit to an Oilbird roost! Before we even got there, a Striped Cuckoo popped up beside the road, causing us to stop and admire it as it raised and lowered its expressive crest. Once at the site, we walked down to the bottom of the hill, where Marcia opened the gate and escorted us up the steps into the grotto. There we found at least two dozen Oilbirds roosting in the eerie light on the ledges, with water running below us and dripping down from above. It was a memorable scene, and was made even more intense each time one of the birds took flight and attempted to land on a different perch, seemingly provoking a disagreement with a neighbor that resulted in clicks, hisses, and grating roars. Back outside we found some additional new species, including Little Cuckoo, Yellow Tyrannulet, and a splendid Purple-crowned Fairy that obliged us by perching down low for good views. It was a long drive back toward Mindo but worth it to achieve a lifetime birding goal for some, and create a lifetime memory for everyone. We checked into Séptimo Paraíso Lodge in time for just a little hummingbird feeder-watching at the end of the afternoon, with novelties like Green-crowned Brilliant and Andean Emerald.

Day 5 - It was an early start for our day trip to the Mashpi area. Right away, we had a major highlight without even getting out of the van when we spotted a Black Solitaire at the roadside. This scarce Chocó endemic is easy to miss and it felt like a good omen to get one so early in the day. Arriving at Mashpi Amagusa we met our host Sergio and the birding excitement continued, with excellent activity around the moth light. Zeledon’s Antbird, Spotted Barbtail, Pacific Tuftedcheek, Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, and Tawny-breasted Flycatcher were among the many insect-eaters attracted to the buffet. Moss-backed Tanager and Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager headlined the list of tanagers that visited the fruit feeder, while a flock of gaudy Rose-faced Parrots made themselves at home in the closest tree to the deck, with numerous individuals coming and going throughout the morning. There was so much to see that it kept us from eating our breakfast for almost an hour! The hummingbirds were equally impressive, with flashy Velvet-purple Coronets, tiny Green Thorntails, and elegant Empress Brilliants flying all around us. Walking along the road we added Green-fronted Lancebill near a little waterfall, its preferred microhabitat. A White-tipped Sicklebill was less cooperative, only making brief appearances at the staked-out heliconia flowers that it was visiting. Sergio helped us spot Chocó Vireo and Ashy-headed Tyrannulet in the canopy, and a Golden-winged Manakin delighted us by making repeated foraging flights up a small ravine to a fruiting tree, its yellow wings a blur of motion. 

Next up we stopped at Sacha Guatusa to enjoy our packed lunch. Here we had more luck with tanagers, seeing both Gray-and-gold and Rufous-throated up close at the feeders, with bananas put out by our host Claudia just when we arrived. Collared Trogon was new for our list as well, and some of us were able to catch a glimpse of the lightning-fast White-bearded Manakin. Rain caused us to scrap our birding stop along the lower Mashpi-Guayabillas road, and instead we slowly made our way back to civilization through a matrix of foothill forest, small farms, and larger-scale cropland.

Day 6 - Today’s main event was a trip down to our lowest elevation of the tour, specifically the Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, which has protected a small but important parcel of old growth rainforest for over 20 years. This little reserve, owned by the Mindo Cloudforest Foundation, provides a key habitat oasis in a largely deforested landscape where much of the original forest cover has been replaced by agriculture. Here we were able to spot some typical, widespread Neotropical rainforest species alongside rarer Chocó lowland endemics. We got started with the latter category right away, with an obliging Purple-chested Hummingbird nectaring on a patch of porterweed right by the shelter where we enjoyed our pack breakfast. The canopy observation tower gave us great views of Green Honeycreeper, Bay-headed Tanager, and a small flock of Purple-throated Fruitcrows, seen right in the trees closest to the tower. Overhead we spotted Lesser Swallow-tailed Swifts, and through the scope we were able to appreciate White-tailed Trogon and both toucan species (Chocó and Yellow-throated) more distantly. Guayaquil Woodpeckers advertised their presence with their distinctive “double-knock” drumming, but stayed out of view. Surely the “best” (i.e. rarest) bird seen from the tower was the Chocó endemic Scarlet-breasted Dacnis; we were treated to a dazzling male perched up in a medium-distance treetop twice. Down below, we walked the road through the reserve, turning up a Barred Puffbird perched high above us, and a surprise Zone-tailed Hawk that soared overhead; with its Turkey Vulture-like flight style and appearance, it could easily have been overlooked. We also spent a little time walking the trail through the understory of the forest. Sadly, we found the trail to be somewhat overgrown, a consequence of the foundation’s lack of operational budget, but we moved slowly and managed to find some quality species like the widespread Broad-billed Motmot and the regional endemic Blue-tailed Trogon (aka “Chocó Trogon”). When we paused to observe the drama of a very small Brown Spot-bellied Snake attempting to subdue a much larger robber frog, a big mixed flock led by Tawny-crested Tanagers caught our attention. We picked out some other species like Cinnamon Becard and Scarlet-browned Tanager, but the flock was high in the canopy, difficult to observe, and we were getting hungry anyway, so we ate our pack lunch and then loaded up to head back to the town of Pedro Vicente Maldonado, spotting an amorous pair of Lineated Woodpeckers along the way. 

Our last stop of the afternoon was Frutti Tour, an emerging birding destination where our host Marcelo shared his extremely active feeder setup. The first 15 minutes or so could be described as exhilarating or frantic, depending on your point of view, as dozens of hummingbirds buzzed around the deck and a nonstop parade of tanagers, finches, saltators, and others visited the fruit and seed feeders; new species popped up one after another in rapid succession. Here we added no fewer than six new hummingbirds: Violet-bellied Hummingbird, Long-billed Starthroat, Green-breasted Mango, Bronzy and White-whispered Hermits, and the arrestingly beautiful Crowned Woodnymph with its glowing shades of purple and green. We studied the varied plumage styles of Flame-rumped (aka “Lemon-rumped”) and White-lined Tanagers, and enjoyed seeing two striking woodpeckers up close: Golden-olive and Black-cheeked. Meanwhile, gaudy Orange-billed Sparrows mingled with Ecuadorian Thrushes and Saffron Finches at the crushed corn provided for them. It was a very productive end to our day in the lowlands. Back at Septimo Paraiso, some chose to relax for a little while before dinner, while others set off on a successful quest for a Guayaquil Woodpecker sighting!

Day 7 - On a trip full of memorable days, it’s safe to say that our highly-anticipated visit to the famous Refugio Paz de las Aves managed to stand out from the rest. We made another early start, arriving at the viewing blind for the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek in pre-dawn twilight. Soon we could hear the strange, insistent whining calls, and as the light increased we began to take in their equally strange appearance: the males’ unbelievably vibrant scarlet coloration and odd, plush “front crest” contribute to a cartoonish look that is matched by their excited and hyperactive posturing as they vie for position and superiority in the lek. And the intensity ramped up each time a female made an appearance. After the cock-of-the-rock experience we were treated to a fantastical male Lyre-tailed Nightjar on his roost, his unbelievably long tail feathers draped below him. From there we continued to visit various spots with our hosts from the Paz family, Andy, Rodrigo, and Angel, as they showed us many of the rare and elusive residents of the cloud forest. Of course, the most famous residents are the antpittas, and they did not disappoint! We had the privilege of seeing three species of this secretive Neotropical family thanks to the time-consuming techniques of habituating the birds for worm-feeding. We saw the adorable Ochre-breasted Antpitta nicknamed “Shakira” for its habit of shimmying back and forth when perched, the Chocó endemic Yellow-breasted Antpitta, and the jaw-dropping Giant Antpitta, which miraculously reappeared for us after an absence of a week, with a begging juvenile in tow. These sightings alone would have been a tremendous success, but we were also treated to a cryptic Olivaceous Piha on its nest, a pair of industrious Powerful Woodpeckers, and a bold and sassy Zeledon’s Antbird. Yes, there were hummingbirds too, with cute White-booted Racket-tails and elegant Violet-tailed Sylphs visiting the feeders, and let’s not forget the superb “second breakfast” of coffee with bolones and empanadas, a traditional Ecuadorian morning meal and another feature of birding at Refugio Paz that makes each visit to this family-run business so special. 

In the early afternoon we made a visit to the small Punto Ornitologico property in nearby Mindo, where the highlights continued. Our host Alcivar showed us a nest of the one-of-a-kind Sunbittern, a uniquely Neotropical species placed in its own family. Nearby we observed a roosting Common Potoo, wonderfully camouflaged as a broken branch. Before heading back to Septimo for the remainder of the afternoon, we spent a little while on Alcivar’s small campy tower, adding sightings of Black-crowned Tityra, Pale-vented Pigeon, and Blue-necked and Swallow Tanagers. What a day!

Day 8 - Today we targeted one of the most outrageous of the Chocó endemics, setting out from the lodge well before dawn for a chance to see the bizarre Long-wattled Umbrellabird. We met our host Luis in the small village of 23 de Junio, and continued uphill as far as the van would take us; next we forded a small stream in our rubber boots and hiked up a muddy trail toward Luis’s family property where the umbrellabirds gather at their lek. As the sun rose, we found several males and females chasing each other through the treetops, the males’ strange necktie-like wattles dangling and bouncing as they hopped and flew. Before long, they dispersed to forage, and we devoured our pack breakfast, carried up to the observation site high on the hillside by Edwin and Luis. The hummingbird feeders were busy with Purple-bibbed Whitetips, Empress Brilliants, Brown Incas, Velvet-purple Coronets, and at least one sneaky Tawny-bellied Hermit, yet another new hummingbird that bumped our tally up to a remarkable 40 species. Chocó Toucans and Ruddy Pigeons gave good views nearby, and we were able to study the umbrellabirds again more distantly through the scope. On our hike down a Barred Hawk soared over a far hillside and White-thighed Swallows zipped past up close. Back at the village,e we were offered a snack of empanadas with coffee (impossible to resist!), and then headed back toward the lodge. A short stop by the Río Blanco gave us a final taste of birding in the lowlands, with Streak-headed Woodcreeper and Scarlet-rumped Caciques among others. After lunch and a little downtime, we headed for the town of Mindo, one of Ecuador’s most well-known ecotourism locations. First we drove to a bridge over the rushing Río Mindo, where we spotted a pair of White-capped Dippers working on building a nest on the rock face beside the river. Torrent Tyrannulets foraged nearby. Next we took some time to enjoy a little cultural activity: a chocolate tour! It was fun and enriching to learn all about the process of growing and making chocolate, from the plant to the final product. Back at the lodge we had our final dinner at Septimo Paraiso, and then turned in, tired from our long day.

Day 9 - We all deserved a sleep-in after the extremely early start the day before, so we started with breakfast at the very civilized hour of 6 am and then birded along the driveway at Septimo Paraiso. It was a beautiful morning, with a good amount of bird song but it was hard to get eyes on most things, with the charming Ornate Flycatchers being a notable exception. Crested Guans stood out as a highlight, and we saw Lineated Foliage-gleaner and Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant reasonably well. By mid-morning, we checked out and headed to Milpe Bird Sanctuary for a few hours of birding. At Milpe we had good views of forest species like Pallid Dove, Chestnut-backed Antbird, and Tawny-breasted Flycatcher; a Speckled Nightingale-Thrush sang close by but was hard to see. Mixed flocks included some new species and others that we were able to get upgraded views of: Yellow-throated Chlorospingus, Northern Plain-Xenops, Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner, Slaty Antwren, and Plain-brown Woodcreeper. Hummingbirds were plentiful at the feeders, with Crowned Woodnymphs, White-necked Jacobins, and Green-crowned Woodnymphs making up the majority of the cast. As the morning came to a close we were able to call in an Olive-crowned Yellowthroat for views in the scope. From Milpe we headed back toward Quito, stopping first for lunch at the excellent Mirador Guaycapi restaurant, where the highlight was a sensational White-winged Tanager that Edwin spotted as it perched at eye level off the outdoor dining deck. After lunch we had a couple more short stops near the town of Calacalí, first to admire the monument to the Equator in the town plaza, then to take a stroll through an area of scrubby vegetation just across the western crest of the Andes and nestled in rainshadow that is the Inter-Andean Valley. We were able to add a few characteristic species of this novel habitat, such as Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, and Blue-and-yellow Tanager. A Peregrine Falcon and a Variable Hawk soared overhead, but Black-tailed Trainbearers with their extravagantly long tails stole the show. Finally time was up and it was time to return to Tababela for our farewell dinner and the conclusion of the tour. We ran through the day’s checklist for one last time, and reminisced about favorite sightings from the tour, and the Oilbird was voted the top bird of the trip in a landslide, with Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan and Giant Antpitta tied for second place. Incredible birds from a great tour. Until next time!

Back to Narratives