Brazil: The Northeast - Bahia the Beautiful

with Indigo Macaw

Our birding trip to Bahia will take us to wonderful places and unique habitats...
Our birding trip to Bahia will take us to wonderful places and unique habitats...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...including the scenic tablelands and rock gardens of the Chapada Diamantina...
...including the scenic tablelands and rock gardens of the Chapada Diamantina...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...the shrubby and wooded savanna of the Cerrado...
...the shrubby and wooded savanna of the Cerrado...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...dry forests such as those near Boa Nova...
...dry forests such as those near Boa Nova...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...humid forest at Serra Bonita...
...humid forest at Serra Bonita...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...and even mangroves near Porto Seguro.
...and even mangroves near Porto Seguro.
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
We'll stay in picturesque villages (here Lençois)...
We'll stay in picturesque villages (here Lençois)...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...travel through colorful towns...
...travel through colorful towns...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...and meet friendly Brazilians.
...and meet friendly Brazilians.
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
We'll use simple but attractive accommodation, with great birding opportunities from the garden...
We'll use simple but attractive accommodation, with great birding opportunities from the garden...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...or from the swimming pool...
...or from the swimming pool...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...or even from our rooms as at Serra Bonita.
...or even from our rooms as at Serra Bonita.
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
Birding will be fantastic and we plan on finding plenty of Brazilian endemics like Slender Antbird...
Birding will be fantastic and we plan on finding plenty of Brazilian endemics like Slender Antbird...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...the unique Great Xenops...
...the unique Great Xenops...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...or the lovely Spotted Piculet.
...or the lovely Spotted Piculet.
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
There will be colorful birds like Green-headed Tanager...
There will be colorful birds like Green-headed Tanager...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...and Red-necked Tanager, both species coming to the feeders at Serra Bonita.
...and Red-necked Tanager, both species coming to the feeders at Serra Bonita.
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
We also have good chance of finding the soon-to-be-split Eastern Striped Manakin...
We also have good chance of finding the soon-to-be-split Eastern Striped Manakin...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...the recently described Sincora Antwren...
...the recently described Sincora Antwren...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...the extremely local Hooded Visorbearer...
...the extremely local Hooded Visorbearer...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...and the charismatic Spot-billed Toucanet.
...and the charismatic Spot-billed Toucanet.
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
We may be the only tour to look for the endangered and beautiful Indigo Macaw.
We may be the only tour to look for the endangered and beautiful Indigo Macaw.
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
The botany is absolutely amazing too...
The botany is absolutely amazing too...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...with stunning cacti...
...with stunning cacti...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...spectacular bromeliaceae...
...spectacular bromeliaceae...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...and elegant mimosa.
...and elegant mimosa.
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
We may also spot one of these weird Rock Cavy...
We may also spot one of these weird Rock Cavy...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
...a group of the very local Wied's Black-tufted-ear Marmoset...
...a group of the very local Wied's Black-tufted-ear Marmoset...
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
and other marvelous creatures like the colorful crabs in the Porto Seguro's mangroves.
and other marvelous creatures like the colorful crabs in the Porto Seguro's mangroves.
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
Some might say that the fresh coconut milk alone warrants a trip to Bahia.
Some might say that the fresh coconut milk alone warrants a trip to Bahia.
Images: Fabrice Schmitt
2025 Tour Price
$7,790
2025
Tour Price $7,790
Single Room Supplement $350
Maximum group size eight with one leader.
Tour balances paid by check/bank transfer may carry a 4% discount

Bahia is known among Brazilians as a cultural hotspot celebrated for exotic food, mysterious religions, and energetic dance forms. But it’s also a natural history wonderland, encompassing nearly all that Brazil has to offer. From coastal white-sand woodland, to interior caatinga, to the moist mata atlântica of the hilly south, to the extremely localized viney mata de cipó, to the complex mix of habitats at Chapada Diamantina National Park, we’ll make a circuit through this largest of the northeastern states in search of its varied avifauna and local endemic species. During our short trip we’ll visit two major biomes, the cerrado and the Atlantic Rain Forest. The cerrado covers about one-quarter of Brazil’s territory and supports one of the planet’s biologically richest savannas. It’s typically an open to semi-open habitat, making birding quite easy, and includes a mix of grassland, wooded savanna, dry forest, and stone gardens. 

We will start our trip looking for the splendid and sadly endangered Indigo Macaw, whose world population is estimated at fewer than 1000 individuals. These birds live in a remarkable place where the amazing caatinga vegetation mixes with landscapes of red cliffs and giant cacti. We’ll make a donation to the NGO protecting land for the macaw (and plenty of other interesting species), so our visit will also contribute to the conservation of these fantastic birds. We recognize that the drives to and from the macaws are long, but these birds are magical as is the place. Following our exploration of the cerrado, we will visit one of Brazil’s most scenic places, the Chapada Diamantina, where several plateaus are surrounded by impressive cliffs. The area hosts a unique botany and a long list of endemic and specialized birds, including Hooded Visorbearer, Sincora and Caatinga Antwrens, Diamantina Tapaculo, São Francisco Sparrow, Pale-throated Pampa-Finch, Black-throated Saltator, and so many more. 

On the second part of our trip, we’ll prospect the northern part of the threatened Atlantic Forest, from sea level to 3000 feet. We’ll stay two full days at a wonderful lodge at Serra Bonita, and then explore the coastal area near Porto Seguro. We have a great chance of finding the “vulnerable” Pink-legged Graveteiro (discovered only 25 years ago), the endemic Bahia Tyrannulet, Bahia Antwren, and Bahia Spinetail, the minute Buff-throated Purpletuft, the stunning Banded and White-winged Cotingas, and a multitude of more widespread but still beautiful species, including Pin-tailed Manakin, White-shouldered Fire-eye, Spot-billed Toucanet, and plenty of colorful tanagers. 

Note: In 2025 it’s possible to do this tour back to back with Brazil: Minas Gerais.  

Tour Team
Itinerary (Click to see more)

Note: In 2025 it’s possible to do this tour back to back with Brazil: Minas Gerais

Day 1: The tour begins at 6:30 p.m. in the lobby of our hotel, near Salvador de Bahia International Airport. Night in Salvador de Bahia.

Day 2: We’ll need to drive all day with few stops to reach the Indigo Macaw reserve. As we travel, the agricultural fields, grassland, and patches of forest found near Salvador will slowly be replaced by drier and drier habitat. Ultimately, we’ll reach the little village of Canudos, where prime caatinga habitat, and the Indigo Macaws, can be found. This distinctive xeric habitat holds not only exciting birds but also fascinating cacti, euphorbias, and trees. Night in Canudos.

Day 3: We’ll have a full day’s birding near Canudos, starting early at the cliffs where Indigo Macaws breed. Seeing the macaws flying in front of the ochre cliffs in the morning light is truly magical.

After feasting on excellent views of the macaws, we’ll spend the rest of the day birding the caatinga. We’ll look for fancy birds such as Barred (Caatinga) Antshrike, Black-bellied Antwren, Broad-tipped Hermit, Stripe-breasted Starthroat, Caatinga Cacholote, Greater Wagtail-Tyrant, the unique Red-shouldered Spinetail, and the lovely Cactus Parakeet. With some luck we might even find the rare Great Xenops or the elusive Stripe-backed Antbird. After dinner we’ll search for Scissor-tailed Nightjar and other nightbirds. We should note that the botanical diversity here is also impressive, and in addition to the birds we’ll enjoy wonderful plants and flowers, even if blooming is dependent on the random rains. Night in Canudos.

Day 4: We’ll make the long drive toward the picturesque town of Lençois in the Chapada Diamantina region. Opportunistic stops at habitat and wet spots along the way might yield Green-barred Woodpecker, White-eared Puffbird, or Southern Pochard. Night in Lençois.

Day 5: After an early breakfast we’ll visit dry forest and caatinga habitat near the village of Palmeiras. We have an excellent chance of finding Silvery-cheeked Antshrike, Caatinga Antwren, Gray-eyed Greenlet, the cute Tropical Gnatcatcher, Red-cowled Cardinal, at least a few Cactus Parakeets, and perhaps even the noisy Scarlet-throated Tanager. It’s also here that we hope to find the São Francisco Sparrow, a lovely bird only described in 1997. A few miles away we’ll explore an interesting area of grassland mixed with low shrubs. Despite growing on poor and sandy soils, the vegetation here is extremely varied, from dwarf palm trees to stunning flowers, and is home to fabulous birds such as Rufous-sided Pygmy-Tyrant, White-rumped Tanager, Campo Flicker, Collared Crescentchest, and Black-throated Saltator.

After a mid-day break in Lençois we’ll visit the scenic Morro do Pai Inacio, a plateau covered by spectacular vegetation. The more intrepid will have the opportunity to climb the plateau and enjoy the wonderful view, but even without reaching the top, we’ll have a great chance of finding the stunning Hooded Visorbearer, the endemic Pale-throated Pampa-Finch, and the lovely Velvety Black-Tyrant. Between the boulders we may spot a Rock Cavy, a weird-looking mammal related to Guinea Pigs. We’ll also look for the very recently described Sincora Antwren, a beautiful and extremely local species, found only in the northern part of the Espinhaço range, as well as more common species such as Burnished-buff Tanager or Planalto Tyrannulet. Night in Lençois.

Day 6: We’ll spend the morning in the dry forest near Lençois, looking for Pale-bellied Tyrant-Manakin, the recently split Ochre-backed Woodpecker, Black-capped Antwren, and the superb White-naped Jay among others. In the background of the songs and calls of more common birds we’ll probably hear the marvelous song of the Yellow-legged Tinamou.

In the afternoon we’ll travel to the charming village of Mucugê. Just before arriving at our destination, we’ll bird open cerrado habitat, where we hope to see Rufous-winged Antshrike, Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch, and possibly even the uncommon Stripe-tailed Yellow-Finch. Night in Mucugê.

Day 7: We’ll have a full day to investigate savanna and a patch of superb dry forest near Mucugê. In the savanna we’ll look for species we haven’t yet seen, perhaps the cute Gray-backed Tachuri, the unique White-banded and White-rumped Tanagers, or the recently split Bahia Wagtail-Tyrant. In the dry forest we could find several birds new to us, such as the handsome Spotted Piculet, the shy Stripe-backed Antbird, Gray-headed and Ochre-cheeked Spinetails, the endemic Narrow-billed Antwren, the minute Hangnest Tody-Tyrant, or the charismatic Great Xenops if we haven’t seen it already near Canudos. Night in Mucugê.

Day 8: After some extra birding in the morning near Mucugê, we will have a long drive to the little town of Boa Nova where we plan to arrive in the late afternoon. Night in Boa Nova.

Day 9: The Boa Nova area is at the border between the humid coastal range and the dry interior cerrado: in just a few kilometers one can pass from a dry forest with cacti and huge bromeliads to a wet forest with tall trees and very dense understory. The bird communities of these two habitats are almost completely different, explaining why Boa Nova is so popular with birders. In the dry forest, among many interesting species, we’ll be looking for the unique Slender Antbird, the only species in the Rhopornis genus, whose total population is estimated to be fewer than 2000 individuals.

After a few days birding in mostly open and semi-open cerrado, we’ll shift our ornithological gears to wet forest with its collection of mixed-species flocks filled with tanagers, interesting furnariids, and elusive antbirds. The list of new species here is almost endless, but we’ll be particularly interested in finding the Brazilian endemics, including Rio de Janeiro Antbird, Striated Softtail, Bahia Spinetail, and Gilt-edged Tanager. Other enticing species such as Tufted Antshrike and Fork-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant should also be present.

Near Boa Nova we’ll also visit rocky outcrops with spectacular cacti and fascinating euphorbia. Hopefully the cacti will be in bloom, as their flowers attract the sparkling Ruby-topaz Hummingbird. With some luck and perseverance, we may even spot a Pygmy Nightjar hidden between the cacti. Night in Boa Nova.

Day 10: After birding for a few hours near Boa Nova, we’ll begin our drive toward the Serra Bonita Private Reserve. Located near the city of Camacan, the reserve was created by a consortium of owners to protect 2500 hectares of Brazilian Atlantic Rain Forest. The reserve is perched on the top of steep mountains, and we’ll need 4x4 trucks to get there. We’ll stay at the Serra Bonita Lodge, run by the famous entomologist Vitor O. Becker and his charming wife, Clemira Souza. It will be wonderful spending two full days here, not only enjoying the unbroken forest and its birds but also meeting that wonderful couple. People interested in moths will be in moth heaven and may even have a chance to visit his impressive collection of 400,000+ specimens, including many undescribed species.

After our long journey we’ll probably be happy to relax and enjoy a drink in front of the bird feeders, which usually attract Red-necked and Green-headed Tanagers, Spot-billed Toucanet, Sombre Hummingbird, and even the very local Wied’s Black-tufted-ear Marmoset. Night at Serra Bonita.

Days 11–12: There will be plenty to discover during our time at Serra Bonita. With accommodation in the “middle” of the forest we’ll not have to go far from our rooms to find plenty of birds: we could see flocks of colorful tanagers from our room terraces, and the rare Cinnamon-vented Piha sometimes displays between the buildings. In the dense and rich understory, we’ll look for secretive birds such as Spot-breasted and Plumbeous Antvireos, Scaled Antbird, and Rufous Gnateater. We also hope to find a lek of Kinglet Manakin, one of the most beautiful manakins recently split from Striped Manakin. In the canopy flocks we may find two recently described species, the Bahia Tyrannulet and Pink-legged Graveteiro, the latter a “vulnerable” species, alone in the genus Acrobatornis. Following these flocks, we could even find a “Bahia Treehunter,” a still undescribed species of the Heliobletus genus, illustrating how much there is to learn in the remarkable Atlantic Forest. Nights at Serra Bonita.

Day 13: After a final early morning at Serra Bonita, we’ll drive back to Camacan and then to Porto Seguro, the last stop of our trip. It’s a popular tourist location, well known for long sandy beaches and coconut trees, but we’ll spend our time in coastal mangroves and patches of humid forest. After checking in to our hotel and with a break during the hot hours of the day, we’ll explore the nearby mangroves looking for species all but restricted to this habitat, such as Bicolored Conebill, Mangrove Rail, Little Wood-Rail, and Plain-bellied Emerald.

We’ll end the day with a short visit to the nearby Estação Veracel Reserve, where we should see Red-browed and perhaps Blue-headed (Reinchenow’s) Parrots as they travel to their night roost. The chorus of tinamous is usually impressive, and perhaps we’ll even see one of these beautiful singers. At dusk we’ll hope to see a Short-tailed Nighthawk and at least hear the rare White-winged Potoo. Night in Porto Seguro.

Day 14 We’ll follow our exploration of the white sand forest of the Estação Veracel Reserve, located only 15 kilometers from Porto Seguro and protecting 6000+ hectares of Atlantic Forest. This is a great place to see the stunning White-winged Cotinga as well as the uncommon Black-headed Berryeater and Banded Cotinga. Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike and Bahia Antwren are fairly common, but we’ll need some luck to see the secretive Solitary Tinamou. In the mixed-species flock we might encounter a few Rufous-headed or Opal-rumped Tanagers and perhaps even Yellow-green Grosbeak. No doubt there will be new species right up to the end of the day, making it difficult to return to the hotel for final packing, a last meal together, and the short trip to the Porto Seguro airport, where the tour concludes.

Last updated Feb 07, 2024
Tour Information (Click to see more)

ENTERING BRAZIL: A passport is required for traveling to Brazil for any purpose. Your passport should be valid for at least six months after the date the tour ends and have a blank page available for the entry stamp.

VISA: Starting April 2025, a visa will once again be required for U.S., Canadian, and Australian citizens to travel to Brazil, regardless of the purpose of travel. For more information about visa requirements, visit the Brazilian government-authorized website, https://brazil.vfsevisa.com. Visas must be sorted in advance of your trip or you won’t be allowed to board your flight to Brazil. For more information, see https://www.gov.br/mre/pt-br/consulado-miami/information-about-visas-in-english/electronic-visitor-visa-e-visa

For current entry and customs requirements for Brazil, travelers may contact the Brazilian Embassy at 3006 Massachusetts Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C., 20008; telephone (202) 238-2700; http://washington.itamaraty.gov.br/en-us.

It is always a good idea to take photocopies of your passport and air ticket with you when traveling abroad. They can prove invaluable in helping you get replacements if your original documents are lost or stolen. You should pack the photocopies separately from the originals. It’s also a good idea to have a scan of the passport (and visa) saved somewhere online: in Dropbox or in your email, for example.

COUNTRY INFORMATION: You can review the U.S. Department of State Country Specific Travel Information here:  https://travel.state.gov/content/travel.html and the CIA World Factbook here:  https://www.cia.gov/the-world-factbook/. Review foreign travel advice from the UK government here:  https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice and travel advice and advisories from the Government of Canada here:  https://travel.gc.ca/travelling/advisories

PACE OF TOUR: As on most of our Neotropical tours, we have only 12 hours of sunlight for birding, and because Bahia is quite far east in the country, sunrise is around 5:00 am. Thus we will be making early starts most days (4:30-5:00 a.m.) so as to be out in the field for the first few hours of the day when birds are most active. We will normally have very early breakfasts at our lodging before birding, rather than come back for a later breakfast. There will be occasional optional owling excursions before or after dinner, and these will of course be longer days. Although we walk at a slow to moderate pace, we will bird for hours at a time on most mornings. Be aware that you may not be able to return to the lodge or vehicle on your own if you become tired. Other than on traveling days, we will return each day to our accommodation for lunch, venturing out into the field again in midafternoon. Participants should be able to walk at a slow to moderate pace for four to five hours at a time with frequent long stops (the longest trail is about 3 km), and a small travel stool is handy for those who find standing for long periods especially tiring. Most trails are flat and well-maintained but may have numerous exposed roots and rocks. The trail to Morro do Pai Inacio is steep and rocky and only the fittest of us will be able to enjoy the view at the top, while most of the group will probably just hike the lower, easier part of the trail – enough to see most of the interesting birds there. If you have any concerns regarding your physical ability for the walking demands of this tour, please contact the WINGS office.

ALTITUDE: Locations visited during this tour are at low elevations, from sea level to about 4,000 feet.

HEALTH:  The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) recommends that all travelers be up to date on routine vaccinations. These include measles-mumps-rubella (MMR) vaccine, diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis vaccine, varicella (chickenpox) vaccine, polio vaccine, and your yearly flu shot. 

They further recommend that most travelers have protection against Hepatitis A and Typhoid. 

Malaria: Malaria is basically nonexistent in the areas we’ll visit, and the CDC considers the risk low. There have been no outbreaks in over 20 years, and we’ll be here during the dry season. If you choose to take anti-malarial drugs, please remember that many must be initiated one or more weeks before the period of exposure and continued for several weeks after it concludes; there are some potential side effects to consider.  

Yellow Fever:  A current Yellow Fever vaccination is recommended by the CDC but is not required by Brazil for entry. Note that new evidence suggests that a single such vaccination lasts a lifetime. Please consult your physician.

Please contact your doctor well in advance of your tour’s departure, as some medications must be initiated weeks before the period of possible exposure. 

The most current information about travelers’ health recommendations for Brazil can be found on the CDC’s Travel Health website here: https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/list 

Elevation: Locations visited during this tour are at fairly low elevations, from sea level to about 3,500 feet.  

Insects: Many potential health problems can be prevented by adequate protection against insects. Even when mosquitoes may be sparse, biting gnats, ticks, and chiggers can still be a nuisance.  

Smoking: Smoking is prohibited in the vehicles or when the group is gathered for meals, checklists, etc. If you are sharing a room with a nonsmoker, please do not smoke in the room. If you smoke in the field, do so well away and downwind from the group. If any location where the group is gathered has a stricter policy than the WINGS policy, that stricter policy will prevail.  

Miscellaneous: We do not often encounter snakes and take time to observe them whenever possible; most are not venomous, and venomous ones are not aggressive; we’ll always be within driving distance of medical assistance in the case of an emergency. 

One can never completely escape the risk of parasites or fungal infections. Please consult with your physician.

We avoid tap water but filtered and bottled water are readily available.

CLIMATE: We’ll be in Bahia at the very start of the rainy season, when song activity peaks. This usually means a good chance of an afternoon or evening rain or two, but it probably won’t rain most days; having a poncho or travel umbrella in your daypack is recommended, but trails will not be muddy enough to warrant rubber boots. As we’ll be at lower elevations during the entire tour, it will be hot in the sun, with daily highs usually in the upper 80’s F (30 ºC). Night and early morning can be cool (around 50ºF; 10ºC)

ACCOMMODATIONS: We’ll be staying in good quality hotels in Salvador, Lençois and Porto Seguro. Hotels in Mucugê, Canudos, and Boa Nova are more simple but very nice options near our birding locations. In Serra Bonita we are staying in a family run lodge, were rooms and food is simple but with a wonderful view on the forest from your room terrace, excellent feeders and wonderful forest all around the lodge. All rooms will have a private shower and toilet. Wifi is available at all our accommodations (sometimes slow). AC is available everywhere but at Serra Bonita (where the nights are cool and AC will not be needed).

FOOD: The food is varied and scrumptious throughout, typically served buffet style. A green salad (often with locally grown greens), rice, and beans are standard fare, and the main dishes, sides, and desserts vary continually. 

Drinks: Bottled water and/or a soft drink or a beer is provided at lunch and dinner, as is coffee or tea. All other drinks or ‘personal’ drinking water for use in your room etc. is the responsibility of the individual; our lodges typically have filtered water available for refilling your own bottles. We also provide purified water on the bus for use during the day. As it can get hot and dry, we recommend you bring a large, good quality water bottle and keep this topped up.

Food Allergies / Requirements: We cannot guarantee that all food allergies can be accommodated at every destination. Participants with significant food allergies or special dietary requirements should bring appropriate foods with them for those times when their needs cannot be met. Announced meal times are always approximate depending on how the day unfolds. Participants who need to eat according to a fixed schedule should bring supplemental food. Please contact the WINGS office if you have any questions. 

TRANSPORTATION: We will use the same minibus during the all tour. We will need to use 4x4 vehicles to reach Serra Bonita lodge. Some roads may be quite bumpy; anyone susceptible to motion sickness should bring an appropriate remedy. The tour includes four long travelling days, so bring a book or music to enjoy these drives.

Last updated Apr 18, 2024
Bird Lists (Click to see more)
Map (Click to see more)
Narrative (Click to see more)

2023 Narrative

IN BRIEF: The Bahia, Brazil tour went beautifully year, with great birds, fabulous scenery, amazing wildlife, and a very harmonious and diligent group of participants. Our bird list of nearly 375 species will be hard to beat in the future, and it made my job enjoyable to have all the participants so vigilant and active in spotting birds and helping to get each other on everything. When it comes to choosing the favorite birds of the tour, it’s often a little challenging to remember back nearly two weeks, so the Indigo Macaw experience on our second day near Canudos clearly made a lasting impression. With around 40 birds raucously flying around in a picturesque sandstone canyon landscape, and several pairs perched and squabbling over potential nesting nooks, it was a side trip to the north of the state well worth the effort. Farther south, the Chapada Diamantina area, with its stunning landscapes and hyper-local distributions of strange plants and animals, gave up a few of its specialties, such as Sincora Antwren and Collared Crescentchest, and we lucked out with three species of tinamous seen, such as two Spotted Nothuras in the stunted shrubland south of Mucugê. The pair of Burrowing Owls at the Byzantine Cemetery right by town were also a big hit. Farther south yet, the area near Boa Nova offered an amazing contrast in the rapid transition of ecoregions from the dry Caatinga to the wet Atlantic rain forest, and here we enjoyed Swallow-tailed Hummingbird and Pygmy Nightjar in the former and Spot-breasted Antvireo and Striated Softtail in the latter – in birding sites only 25 minutes from each other. The moths, spiders, and plants at Serra Bonita reserve were spectacular, and the bird soundscape here was fabulous. We heard the amazing descending whistle songs of Sharpbill almost everywhere, so it wasn’t a surprise that we had great views of several; a big surprise though was getting great views of an Ash-throated Crake that inhabited the overgrown pasture of the farm located in the middle of the otherwise forested reserve. Our drives were often long between hotels, but we broke them up with quick stops at wet areas, a result of what had apparently been a late and abundant previous rainy season. By far the most exciting highlight at one of them was a stray Pinnated Bittern, far from its southern Brazil breeding distribution. We ended the tour at the tropical coastal resort town of Porto Seguro, sort of the Miami of Brazil, and the large, protected track of lowland forest of Estação Veracel added several nice endemics to the list. The main highlight here though was a pair of Mottled Owls (a likely split from Central American birds), one of which perched low in the understory much closer that we had originally thought.

IN DETAIL: While our first day might have been just written off as a travel day with no birding, we indeed saw some good stuff this day. A bathroom break at a random gas station that had some habitat behind it gave us an Aplomado Falcon perched distantly. We heard both Spotted Nothura in the field and a Fulvous-crowned Scrub-Tyrant very closely in the scrub where it belonged, but both remained invisible. We made a brief stop to look out the van windows at one roadside marsh which had Black-necked Stilt and Wattled Jacana among others, as well as for a single Spot-backed Puffbird perched on a powerline. Given that it was right along a main highway in the afternoon, we would surely see more while out birding on foot…but we never did. Upon arriving at our lodging right in the Indigo Macaw Reserve, we were greeted by a Black-throated Saltator. We spent the rest of the afternoon walking down a sandy wash that was surprisingly birdy given how dry the region looked. We had amazing views of the often secretive Red-shouldered Spinetail, a regional specialty. Black-bellied Antwren was a good find, while the more colorful Campo Troupial, Red-cowled Cardinal, and Cactus Parakeet showed well.

With a full day in the Canudos area, we really had one target, the Indigo Macaw, to which we devoted the first three hours of the day. Starting down the road well before light, we arrived at the cliffs right as the first macaws were starting to fly from the roosts but before it was light enough to see the trail clearly. A distant Least Nighthawk called, and that would be the only one for the tour. After it got light enough to see, we walked to the cliff’s edge where the macaws were a truly spectacular experience in an equally marvelous setting. Some 20 pairs flew around, cavorted, argued over potential nesting sites, and socialized as they must do every day. Blue-crowned Parakeets, Cactus Parakeets, and Turquoise-fronted Parrots added to the cacophony, which a Black-chested Buzzed-Eagle looked upon with desire. On the way to breakfast we birded the dry woodland where a Stripe-backed Antbird gave us unusually good views. After breakfast we birded the same habitat looking for more of the regional specialties and admiring the many species of cactus in such varied shapes and sizes. The tiny pink flowers of the Melocactus zehntneri were a surprising nectar source for the Glittering-bellied Hummingbird, but even more surprising was the nearly invisible flowers of one of the dusty roadside bromeliads which sustained a Broad-tipped Hermit that gave great views. We found Silver-cheeked Antshrike, the red-eyed Barred Antshrike, and a Short-tailed Hawk in the later morning before retreating to town for lunch. We checked the reservoir behind town where Snail Kite, White-faced Whistling-Duck, and Bahia Wagtail-Tyrant were the better finds. After an afternoon siesta, we birded back through the caatinga, seeing White-naped Jays and more Red-shouldered Spinetails before ending at dusk by a cliff overlook. Here we heard a distant Band-winged Nightjar calling which before long became a very close pair of Band-winged Nightjars on the rocks just a few yards away. On the trudge back to the van, we flushed a male Scissor-tailed Nightjar, but it vanished before everyone could get on it. The tracks in the sand were fun to explore, and after dark the formidable-looking bullet ant relative Dinoponera was out hunting, presumably looking for termites.

Another driving day – and what would prove to be an extraordinarily long one at that – should have been devoted to just driving and no birding, but that would be no fun. The day ended with about 75 species, and every stop was worth the time. Maybe we could have given up the early morning birding by the lodge, but it was amazingly birdy down the sandy wash, with many Red-shouldered Spinetails in the open, Cobalt-rumped Parrotlets showing nicely, a Striped-breasted Starthroat, and a Broad-tipped Hermit for our hummingbirds of the day, and a Long-billed Wren that showed its namesake well. Just as breakfast was being served calls of a King Vulture came from one of the lodge workers, and we rushed out to see it soaring over the dry caatinga and sandstone cliffs. Stops along the long drive to Lençóis were for stretching as much as birding. At our first such stop, Variable Oriole and a very close Green-barred Woodpecker were highlights. A noisy group of Chestnut-capped Blackbirds and Southern Pochards were highlights on the outskirts of Capim Grosso, but we couldn’t ignore the many egrets and night-herons, the group of Wood Storks, and of course White-headed Marsh-Tyrant. Brazilian Teal joined the White-headed Whistling-Ducks at our last roadside pond stop before we had to make the rubber hit the road to avoid getting in too late.

Our first morning out of Lençóis was spent south of the town of Palmeiras, where many caatinga specialties awaited us. Planalto Slaty-Antshrike came early on, becoming lifer #5000 for Mark. Silvery-cheeked Antshrike and East Brazilian Chachalaca were among the many fun birds at the first stop, and while working our way up the river valley we added Ultramarine Grosbeak and Great Xenops. A Tropical Screech-Owl perched in plain sight was mobbed by a Black-capped Antwren, but that pesky São Francisco Sparrow never did make a squeak. Farther down the road we had good views of a Collared Crescentchest. In the late afternoon we birded a road close to our hotel where blooming heartseed vines were attractive to many hummers, including Ruby-topaz Hummingbird. We stayed until dark, hearing several Rufous Nightjars and Yellow-legged Tinamous and calling in our second Tropical Screech-Owl of the day.

On our second morning from Lençóis we birded the road where we had ended the previous day, where Frilled Coquette and a pair of Crested Becards were good finds. A Reddish Hermit came in very close to inspect a few in the group as well. On our way to the Morro do Pai Inacio area, we were caught up again in the roadworks that slowed us down, but a Planalto Hermit inspecting very inch of the tanker truck stopped in line in front of us wouldn’t have made it to the list otherwise. Our first try for Sincora Antwren brought us Small-headed Elaenia and Spix’s Spinetail, and we then left just enough time at the Morro to connect with a very cooperative Pale-throated Pampa-Finch and a pair of lovely Hepatic Tanagers. Curious Guira Cuckoos were at our hotel, and a Masked Water-Tyrant was just upstream at the bridge by our lunch restaurant. We completed the relatively short drive to our Mucugê hotel in time to bird the fascinating habitats in the rock and sandy areas north of town. It was very quiet, but a single Gray-eyed Greenlet showed very well.

The caatinga south of Mucugê was very active. First birding the very short scrub on sandy soil, we quickly found the signature Rufous-sided Scrub-Tyrants. Scanning the airstrip on a whim amazingly produced a Red-winged Tinamou walking out in the open. Other memorable birds in this habitat included Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch and the shrike-like White-banded Tanager. Pushing our luck with the tinamous, we casually tried for Spotted Nothura and to our surprise two appeared out of the scrub. At one point, a White-rumped Swallow flew at us and continued north, presumably a spring migrant. We walked the nearby forest trail where two Hangnest Tody-Tyrants appeared at very close range, and while most of us were taunted by the song of a White-browed Antpitta, at least three people were lucky to get either glimpses or good views. The last bird of the morning was a pair of adorable Rusty-backed Antwrens before we went back to the hotel, with a short stop at the Byzantine cemetery and its very confiding pair of Burrowing Owls at their nest. In the afternoon we enjoyed amazing views of Biscutate Swifts whizzing by in amazing light before we wandered down the road to a trusty territory of the super local Diamantina Tapaculo. After seeing that bird well, we were entertained by a boisterous flock of beautiful Gilt-edged Tanagers.

Sincora Antwren was our main target for our early morning birding. Before that we were distracted by a White-bellied Nothura that our driver Paulo spotted walking down the sidewalk at the edge of town. We watched it for a couple minutes as it crossed the road, was flushed by a passing car, then came back out again. When we arrived at the trailhead, we thought we had the targeted antwren right away, but it turned out to be the visually extremely similar but vocally very different Black-bellied Antwren, slightly out of habitat. With it was a Southern Yellowthroat and a visible (finally) Fulvous-crowned Scrub-Tyrant. It wasn’t long before we had amazing views of a pair of Sincora Antwrens a very short and pleasant walk down the trail. Another highlight from here was a Sharp-shinned Hawk that flew over early on our walk. As we were leaving it flew over again back the way it came with some food item in its talons; breakfast for the babies, presumably. We then faced a long drive to Boa Nova, with only brief birding stops that yielded Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Savanna Hawk on a nest, and Wing-banded Horneros, as well as a tremendous, deafening downpour during our lunch break, the area’s first of the season (and the only rain we would see in two weeks). After checking in to our hotel, we birded some habitat nearby where we lucked into a pair of the town’s mascot, Slender Antbird. Sapphire-spangled Emeralds were guarding their food source, here the pink flowers of Melocactus ernestii, and we called in a very adorable White-crested Tyrannulet.

We departed early for a morning of birding in the very different wet forest, but darn it, birds right along the road made us stop before we got there. Two blooming Inga trees right next to the highway were the attraction, and a gorgeous male Ruby-topaz Hummingbird finally made it on everyone’s list. After tallying quite a few more things here, we got to our first humid forest habitat of the tour, amazingly only 20 minutes down the road. Atlantic Black-throated Trogon (fresh from the splitting block), Striated Softtail, Gray-hooded Attila, and Frilled Coquette were just a few of the more memorable sightings from this amazing five hours of birding (just shy of 100 species). In the late afternoon we viewed Slender Antbird once again in its distinctive, viny and terrestrial bromeliad-choked habitat. Nearby we got invited to a private ranch with some unusual open rocky habitat where Swallow-tailed Hummingbirds dominated the blooming cactuses and bromeliads. The best find here was a pair of the incredibly well-camouflaged Pygmy Nightjars.

A bit of early morning birding near Boa Nova before our onward drive was very busy, with Orange-headed Tanager right on the main highway where we stopped first to catch everyone up on Yellow-browed Tyrants – and where we also saw a pair of Blackish Rails walking out in the open. We had to beat away the Southern Mouse-colored Tyrannulets with a stick and thereby were able to spot a furtive Fuscous Flycatcher in the thickets, and Pale Baywings were a good addition here. The drive to Serra Bonita wasn’t too long, and breaking it up with stops that resulted in a Zone-tailed Hawk, a very unexpected Pinnated Bittern, and a more expected but still amazing Least Pygmy-Owl made it seem shorter. We arrived at our home up on the mountain of Serra Bonita for the next three nights with some quality afternoon birding time. Sharpbill was a surprise sitting in a tree right by our rooms, and the overlook nearby was really busy with tanagers, a White-throated Spadebill, and an in-your-face White-chinned Sapphire.

The morning dawned foggy at the top of the hill, so we took the trucks down to bird the lower elevations of the entrance road. White-shouldered Fire-eye and Green-backed Trogon were among the more memorable birds there, but it was also a morning for cavity nesters – Black-necked Aracari, Yellow-throated Woodpecker (here with a red throat), and Yellow-fronted Woodpeckers were all spied poking their heads out of dead trees. After our first Mantled Hawk soared over, we returned to the cooler higher elevations where the birding continued to be good. A family group of Striated Softtails chattered away, multiple Sharpbills made themselves visible, a Swallow-tailed Manakin male showed off, and a hard-to-find Bahia Tyrannulet came down out of the canopy. After lunch we enjoyed Spot-billed Toucanets at the fruit, and two pairs of Buff-throated Purpletufts were super lucky finds.

We started our second full day at Serra Bonita near our rooms, where bird activity was high and included the local Plumbeous Antvireo. Spot-billed Toucanets were also in the trees nearby, the male teeter-tottering as he croaked his song. We then tried out a trail above the antenna road where we found yet another Bahia Tyrannulet while finding a Pale-browed Treehunter, a lovely orchid, and some stunning bromeliads. A Lemon-chested Greenlet was in one of the mixed flocks with groups of the stunning Green-headed Tanagers and a Chestnut-bellied Euphonia. Back at the lodge’s feeders, Sombre Hummingbird was finally seen well by all. In the afternoon we walked down the road, where a White-shouldered Fire-eye hopped out in the open. We were surprised to hear an Ash-throated Crake in the overgrown fields halfway down, but we gave it a shot and ended up getting decent views of this skulky rail.

Before leaving the Serra Bonita area we birded the lowest elevations of the reserve where White-eyed Parakeet was a bit of a surprise and Peach-fronted Parakeets showed well. The Banded Cotinga didn’t appear during our vigil at Fazenda Paris, but we did get Black-tailed Tityra, Bright-rumped Attila, White-chinned Sapphire, and Black-necked Aracari here. A quick check at a nearby marsh produced the hoped-for Black-capped Donacobius right along the road. The drive to the coast at Porto Seguro passed by quickly enough. Afternoon birding by the mangroves was windy and noisy with traffic, but we still managed to pull out Bicolored Conebills. At the Veracel Reserve we had just enough light to see some daytime birds, including a White-flanked Antwren, and then as it got dark, we had lots of owl activity. A pair of Mottled Owls came in quite close and low, but the two Pulsatrix sp. species that could have been either Tawny-browed or Spectacled stayed out of sight, and a Black-capped Screech-Owl may have been spooked by the larger predators. It was still fantastic to hear their amazing vocalizations.

On our final morning, we returned to the Veracel reserve where we picked up several new birds. Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike and Band-tailed Antwren were two of our main targets, and along the way some people caught up with White-winged Becard and Dubois’s Seedeater. Manakins and hummingbirds were quite diverse here, highlights being Blue-backed Manakin and Rufous-throated Sapphire, the latter seen performing an amazing sputtering display flight. Any calling Celeus woodpecker here is worth having a closer look, and we ended up getting great views of a Blond-crested Woodpecker, seeing the mostly black back with just some paler scaling. Not to be forgotten amongst all the votes for favorite birds that reflect some of the prettiest and rarest, the Bananaquit, known in Brazil as cambaçica, finally gets a mention for being a charismatic and constant presence in so many of the habitats during this fabulous tour.

-Rich Hoyer

Back to Narratives

Tour Notes

Note: In 2025 it’s possible to do this tour back to back with Brazil: Minas Gerais.

Maximum group size eight with one leader.

More Tours with these Leaders