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Back from Brazil: The Northeast - Bahia the Beautiful

Posted Nov 24, 2025 by Rich Hoyer
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Rich Hoyer

Leader

Learn more about the Brazil: The Northeast - Bahia the Beautiful tour

We spent over an hour watching many pairs of Indigo Macaws arrive at their nesting cliffs, where they socialized and reaffirmed their pair bonds.
We spent over an hour watching many pairs of Indigo Macaws arrive at their nesting cliffs, where they socialized and reaffirmed their pair bonds.
Rich Hoyer

The amazingly diverse state of Bahia dazzled us with its wonderful birding on the WINGS tour earlier this month. Thinking back through over 350 species in less than two weeks, many participants included Indigo Macaw among their most memorable of bird experiences. Requiring a long drive to the dry north of the state and a very early start on our second morning of the tour, the experience of watching these gorgeous blue parrots fly to their spectacular red sandstone nesting cliffs was a memory we all savored. 

We then traveled to the center of the state to the picturesque Chapada Diamantina National Park with its stark mesas and fascinating endemic plant life, where we enjoyed two memorable woodpecker species, the stunning Ochre-backed and the adorable and distinctive Spotted Piculet. The transition zone from the dry to wet habitats at Boa Nova was where we saw two pairs of the very local Slender Antbird, and this was where we had the most amazing experience of watching a Tropical Screech-Owl fly in and perch on a fence post right in front of the group in broad daylight. 

We spent three full days in the very humid and evergreen Atlantic Rainforests of the far southeastern part of the state, an incredible contrast to the first part of the tour. A pair of ridiculously gaudy Spot-billed Toucanets coming to the fruit tray at arm's length and two Swallow-tailed Cotingas appearing out of nowhere to feed in a Fruta-de-sabiá tree right next to where we were standing were two unforgettable highlights at Serra Bonita, but there were many other memorable sightings here and in the wet forest near Boa Nova. A male Pin-tailed Manakin, at least four Banded Cotingas, Sharpbill, and Moustached Wren were high on the lists of favorites, while Red-necked Tanager, Green-backed Trogon, and Black-necked Aracari were mentioned for their amazing colors and the great views they provided. 

We had great weather the whole trip, not losing a minute of birding time from any rain. Our driver Ernesto competently drove us over 1600 miles through his state, and along the way we enjoyed the delicious and varied buffet lunches, sampled a few caipirinhas, grew to love the breakfast cakes and pão de queijo, and partook in several self-service açai and ice cream joints.

The scenery near Canudos where the macaws nest was awe inspiring.
The scenery near Canudos where the macaws nest was awe inspiring.
Rich Hoyer
Black-bellied Antwren was among many charming birds we spotted in the dry caatinga habitat of northern Bahia.
Black-bellied Antwren was among many charming birds we spotted in the dry caatinga habitat of northern Bahia.
Rich Hoyer
We saw several Spotted Piculets in all parts of the state, and a woodpecker this small must be seen to be believed.
We saw several Spotted Piculets in all parts of the state, and a woodpecker this small must be seen to be believed.
Rich Hoyer
We spend a late afternoon on a rocky outcropping that was abuzz with four species of hummingbirds feeding on the nectar offered by a large population of Melocactus ernestii, here a Ruby-topaz Hummingbird.
We spend a late afternoon on a rocky outcropping that was abuzz with four species of hummingbirds feeding on the nectar offered by a large population of Melocactus ernestii, here a Ruby-topaz Hummingbird.
Rich Hoyer
This Tropical Screech-Owl must have had insomnia and wasn't afraid of the mob of tanagers, flycatchers, and hummingbirds that protested its presence.
This Tropical Screech-Owl must have had insomnia and wasn't afraid of the mob of tanagers, flycatchers, and hummingbirds that protested its presence.
Rich Hoyer
The adorable White-throated Spadebill can be difficult to see well, so we were pleased that this individual was so confiding.
The adorable White-throated Spadebill can be difficult to see well, so we were pleased that this individual was so confiding.
Rich Hoyer
The female Spot-billed Toucanet is just as stunning as the male.
The female Spot-billed Toucanet is just as stunning as the male.
Rich Hoyer
It was a shock to suddenly see these two Swallow-tailed Cotingas fly in out of nowhere and begin feeding on the fruit just above the road where we had been watching a Spotted Piculet.
It was a shock to suddenly see these two Swallow-tailed Cotingas fly in out of nowhere and begin feeding on the fruit just above the road where we had been watching a Spotted Piculet.
Rich Hoyer
It took patience, but Banded Cotingas finally flew into their stake-out fruiting tree, never a guarantee for this stunning and very rare bird.
It took patience, but Banded Cotingas finally flew into their stake-out fruiting tree, never a guarantee for this stunning and very rare bird.
Rich Hoyer
Red-necked Tanagers were abundant and a delight to see at the bananas that the staff at Serra Bonita would put out several times a day.
Red-necked Tanagers were abundant and a delight to see at the bananas that the staff at Serra Bonita would put out several times a day.
Rich Hoyer
After a tour of Vitor Becker's famous research collection of moths, we marveled at the diversity that were attracted to lights on our nights at Serra Bonita. This Procitheronia principalis royal silkmoth was one of the larger and fancier ones we saw.
After a tour of Vitor Becker's famous research collection of moths, we marveled at the diversity that were attracted to lights on our nights at Serra Bonita. This Procitheronia principalis royal silkmoth was one of the larger and fancier ones we saw.
Rich Hoyer