Day 1: The tour begins this evening in Kota Kinabalu. Night in Kota Kinabalu.

Borneo has long been a bucket-list destination for me and this tour did not disappoint! It turned out to be the perfect place to visit with an all-around naturalist such as Susan Myers, who in addition to being a top expert on the birds of the region, also has extensive knowledge of, and enthusiasm for, the mammals, reptiles, insects and other critters we encountered. I look forward to traveling with Susan and with WINGS again soon.  -Sandra P.

Day 2: We’ll depart Sabah’s capital city, known locally as KK, and almost immediately find ourselves climbing in altitude as we head toward the Crocker Ranges and the impressive massif of Mount Kinabalu.

The area of the Crocker Range National Park we pass through is at a slightly lower altitude than Mount Kinabalu and is a good place to locate a handful of endemics and other specialties that are difficult to find at Kinabalu. With a little luck, we may encounter the monotypic Mountain Blackeye in addition to Mountain Barbet and the rather uncommon but attractive Bornean Barbet. If we’re a bit more fortunate, we may also see the peculiar Whitehead’s Spiderhunter or the diminutive Pygmy White-eye our first Bornean endemics! Some of the other birds we may encounter include Jerdon’s Baza, Mountain Imperial-Pigeon, Ruddy and Little Cuckoo-doves, Gold-whiskered Barbet, Bornean Leafbird, Pale-faced Bulbul, Orange-headed Thrush (uncommon), and the flaming Temminck’s Sunbird. Night at Mount Kinabalu.

Days 3-4: Mount Kinabalu is so central to the identity of Sabahans that it is featured prominently on the state flag and is the subject of innumerable folktales. It is also the key to Borneo’s incredible biodiversity, for it’s here in these mountain ranges that most of Borneo’s endemics evolved. Birding in the cool climate and verdant forests is a real pleasure as we stroll the trails and road in search of a host of great birds, including Bornean Whistling-Thrush, Bornean Whistler, Mountain Serpent-Eagle, the rather elusive Whitehead’s Trogon, Golden-naped Barbet, Checker-throated and Maroon Woodpeckers, the fabulous Whitehead’s Broadbill, Sunda Cuckoo-shrike, Grey-throated Minivet, Ashy and Hair-crested Drongos, Black-and-crimson Oriole, Short-tailed Green Magpie, Bornean Treepie, the delightful Mountain Wren-Babbler, Grey-throated Babbler, Sunda, Chestnut-capped, and Bare-headed Laughingthrushes, White-browed Shrike-Babbler, large flocks of Chestnut-crested Yuhina, Mountain Leaf and Yellow-breasted Warblers, Mountain Tailorbird, Sunda Bush-Warbler, White-throated Fantail, the endemic Eye-browed Flycatcher, plus Indigo, Snowy-browed, and Little Pied Flycatchers, Bornean Whistler, Black-sided Flowerpecker, and Black-capped White-eye. There is always the possibility we could encounter some of Kinabalu’s more elusive species such as Red-breasted and Crimson-headed Partridges, Fruithunter, Everett’s Thrush, and Bornean Stubtail.

We’ll also visit Poring Hot Springs, part of the Mount Kinabalu National Park but at a lower altitude than Mount Kinabalu, and with a different set of birds; we may see Bornean Banded Kingfisher, Orange-bellied Flowerpecker, Short-tailed Babbler, Malaysian Blue-Flycatcher, Rufus Woodpecker or Bornean Spiderhunter. If we're lucky, we might spot the very rare and elusive Hose’s Broadbill. In addition, there’s a chance we’ll see a Rafflesia in flower. Nights at Mount Kinabalu.

Day 5 - 6: After a last birding session in the Mount Kinabalu National Park, we will return to our hotel to pack up and depart for the drive to Sepilok on the east side of the island. After lunch enroute at the lovely Sabah Tea Plantation, we will arrive at our lodge in the midafternoon and head to the nearby Rainforest Discovery Centre to begin our explorations of the lowlands (time permitting). We’ll head to the RDC again in the morning where we’ll station ourselves on the incredible canopy walkway to observe the forest as it wakes.  The afternoon is reserved for a visit to the nearby Sun Bear Conservation Centre and, optionally, to the Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre. Later in the evening, we will join a local naturalist for a night walk where with luck we will encounter the remarkable Horsfield’s Tarsier, the world’s smallest primate, as well as possibly seeing Barred Eagle-Owl or the bizarre Oriental Bay Owl. Night at Sepilok Forest Edge Resort. 

Days 7: After some morning birding at Sepilok we’ll head south to the Kinabatangan River, Sabah’s longest. The reserve protects many excellent birds such as Lesser Fish-Eagle, Oriental Darter, Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle, Rhinoceros Hornbill (always a big hit), Stork-billed Kingfisher, and maybe we’ll see soaring Lesser Adjutants or, even better, the very rare Storm’s Stork. On our way to our lodge, we’ll stop in at Gomantong Cave, a huge limestone cavern that is home to literally millions of swiftlets and bats. The nests have been collected sustainably for the food industry in China for hundreds of years, and it’s quite a spectacle to witness the emergence of staggering numbers of swiftlets at dusk, especially when they are being pursued by Bat Hawks and Peregrine Falcons! Night at Bilit Rainforest Lodge.

Day 8: Today we’ll explore this fascinating area with its wide central river and many narrower, meandering tributaries. These forests are simply full of kingfishers, hornbills, broadbills, bulbuls, and many others. It’s a wonderful place for primates with numerous large troops of the Proboscis Monkeys as well as Maroon Leaf-Monkeys, and Long-tailed Macaques conspiring to keep us entertained. There are many, many birds to look for here, but of particular note are the special ones, such as Bornean Ground-Cuckoo, Scarlet-rumped Trogon, Hooded Pitta, and many species of kingfisher and woodpecker. This is one of the best places for Bornean Pygmy Elephant and with luck, we might come across a herd of 50 or more cavorting in the river. Night at Bilit Rainforest Lodge.

Day 9: We’ll head next to our birding destination in Tabin Wildlife Reserve. Our lodge is nestled in the midst of the rainforest, and we’ll have plenty of opportunities to spot some of Borneo’s special lowland species – both birds and mammals. Bornean Gibbons are often quite confiding here and Blue-banded Kingfisher can sometimes be found in the adjacent river. We’ll also do a night drive in search of nocturnal animals such as Leopard Cat, Colugo, or Red Giant Flying Squirrel. With luck, we may find Brown Wood-Owl or Bornean Tarsier. Night at Tabin Wildlife Resort.

Day 10: We’ll have a full day to bird this very rich area. Our birding will mostly be along the roads and we’ll use the reserve’s open jeep to explore. The greater openness of the forest at Tabin makes some birds easier to see than in the Danum Valley, especially raptors, hornbills, and canopy flock species. We’ll spend some time on the Mud Volcano Trail where the mineral sources often attract mammals and some birds as well. Tabin is one of the best places to find the unusual Bornean Pygmy Elephant, a subspecies of Asian Elephant, and the even more elucsive Asian buffalo or Banteng. Over 300 species of birds have been recorded from Tabin so we’ll be busy! Night at Tabin Wildlife Resort.

Day 11: After a final morning of birding at Tabin, we’ll proceed overland to the famed Danum Valley in Borneo’s heartland. There is no doubt that Danum Valley represents one of the most important, not to mention magnificent, nature reserves in Asia. The luxuriant forest simply brimming with amazing wildlife, although, as with most lowland tropical rainforests, finding some of this elusive wildlife can be a challenge. Enroute to our lodge, there is a chance for some good birding too. We’ll spend the next four nights at Borneo Rainforest Lodge, located on a bend in the Segama River, where the nights are cool and there is a notable absence of biting insects. This is one of the most delightful lodges in Asia, or anywhere for that matter, and there is the added bonus of some great wildlife viewing opportunities right on our doorstep. Night at Borneo Rainforest Lodge.

Days 12-14: We’ll need every day here to find and enjoy the amazing array of birds in this wonderful area. We’ll spend much of our time birding along the quiet entrance road to the lodge, as well as entering the rainforest on the well-maintained trails in search of more elusive ground dwellers.

The list of birds we’ll be searching for is impressive and exciting: Bat Hawk; Jerdon’s Baza;  Bornean Crested Fireback; Great Argus; Thick-billed Green-Pigeon; Blue-crowned Hanging-Parrot; Banded Bay Cuckoo; five species of malkoha; spectacular Diard’s and Red-naped Trogons; deep forest-dwelling Rufous-backed Dwarf and Rufous-collared Kingfishers; the totally bizarre Helmeted Hornbill; many species of barbet; Rufous Piculet; up to ten species of woodpecker; Blue-headed and Black-and-crimson Pittas—two of the most beautiful members of this notoriously difficult-to-see family; Green Broadbill; the endemic Black-throated Wren-babbler (Danum Valley is a babbler lover’s heaven!); the shy Crested Shrike-jay; Bornean Black Magpie; and Long-billed Spiderhunter, to name but a few.

We’ll also make a special effort to find some of Borneo’s most elusive specialties, such as Sabah Partridge, the spectacular endemic Bornean Ground-Cuckoo, Oriental Bay Owl, Blue-banded Pitta (all three elusive and rare…), Bornean Wren-Babbler, and with a bit of luck the incomparable Bornean Bristlehead.

On at least one evening we’ll take an extended night safari from the lodge along the entrance road in search of mammals and nightbirds. We usually encounter Sambar Deer, Giant Red Flying-Squirrel, and Buffy Fish-Owl, but there is always a possibility of some scarcer creatures such as the unlikely-looking Malayan Colugo, Bornean Tarsier, Banded Linsang, Gould’s, and Large Frogmouths, Brown Wood-Owl, and Bornean Pygmy Elephant. Nights at Borneo Rainforest Lodge.

Day 15: This morning we’ll cap off our birding at Danum Valley with an early morning stroll along the road and perhaps something incredibly rare and exciting. We’ll then drive back out through the forest and logging concession and eventually back to so-called civilization for our short return flight to KK. This evening we’ll enjoy a farewell dinner together, where we’ll reflect on a fabulous trip to one of the world’s greatest birding destinations! Night at Kota Kinabalu.

Day 16: Participants can depart from Kota Kinabalu any time this morning.

2024 Narrative

Sabah has long been known as a prime birding destination in northern Borneo renowned for its exceptional avian diversity. This Malaysian state offers a unique blend of ecosystems—from the montane forests of Mount Kinabalu to the riverine habitats of the Kinabatangan. As we explored these varied landscapes, we had the opportunity to observe a range of fascinating and exciting bird species. From the vibrant Bornean Green Magpie, elusive Whitehead’s Broadbill, to Rhinoceros Hornbill, Bornean Bristlehead, Great Argus and a host of other remarkable birds that make Sabah a hotspot for birders, and indeed all wildlife enthusiasts alike. Birding in the rich biodiversity of all these reserves, we enjoyed many unforgettably rewarding birding experiences, not to mention all the amazing mammals, reptiles, butterflies, and even plants that make this tour a really special one.

We started our birding tour of Sabah with a short orientation meeting followed by a delicious dinner at Dynasty Chinese Restaurant. No thoughts of partying on though, keeping in mind our very early start the following morning!

Tambunan and Trus Madi

At the crack of dawn, we plunged into the day with a 3:30 AM start, heading east into the Crocker Ranges. After a quick breakfast in the forest on the slopes of Mount Trus Madi, we made our muddy way down a slope into a hide, hoping for action, we immediately encountered a confiding Bornean Forktail, a fascinating example of a cryptic species (see the intro to the field guide!). Outside of a hide this would be a very hard bird to see well, as could be said for the absolutely sensational Crested Partridges that next put in an appearance. I prefer their alternative name Roulroul, which better evokes the uniqueness of this special bird. Despite the non-appearance of our hoped-for Bulwer’s Pheasants, our time at the hide was time well spent with a number of excellent birds not possible elsewhere on the tour – birds such as Dayak Blue and Rufous-chested Flycatchers, and Orange-headed Thrush. Returning to the “headquarters” of this world-class hide setup we were greeted by Cheryl and Martin, our ground agents, with cups of coffee, cakes, mangosteens and cup noodles! We next made our way back to the main road for a spot of roadside birding with great success. This birding also proved to be very fruitful, offering excellent views of our target mid-montane species. Highlights included an endemic feast of Bornean Leafbird, Bornean Bulbul, Mountain Barbet, Bornean Barbet, together with a particularly well-appreciated Red-throated Barbet. 

After a yummy noodle lunch in the small town of Tambunan, we headed to another less august hide at Gunung (Mt.) Alab where we waited very patiently until another scarce endemic, the Crimson-headed Partridge at last put in an appearance. While we waited an Eyebrowed Jungle-Flycatcher and a Snowy-browed Flycatcher both did their best to distract us. 

By late afternoon we set off for Mount Kinabalu. As thick rain and fog rolled in, we checked into our hotel, ready for tomorrow’s adventure.

Mount Kinabalu & Poring

With a 5:30 AM breakfast, this morning’s start felt almost leisurely compared to the day before. As we made our way towards Mount Kinabalu National Park, we were treated to one of those iconic sunrises that makes you stop and just appreciate where you are.

Our driver, Abdillah, dropped us off at Timpohon Gate—the starting point for the climb to Mount Kinabalu’s peak—and we got straight into action, scanning for birds. It didn’t take long for a few of the day’s stars to appear: the striking Bornean Green Magpie, an astounding number of Mountain Black-eyes, Bornean Whistling-thrushes, and an unexpected Pygmy Flycatcher. Not far behind were the loud and spirited Sunda Bush-Warblers, Bornean Treepies, and the colourful Gold-naped Barbets.

Soon after, we also picked up on the ultra-high calls of a Bornean Stubtail. This tiny bird, with a huge personality, gave us excellent views, showing up right on cue. Things got even more exciting as we later laid eyes on a spectacular male Whitehead’s Broadbill. Birds seemed to be everywhere at once, making it hard to decide which direction to turn! Continuing our walk, we next encountered another trip highlight – a pair of stunning Whitehead’s Trogons. They stayed around long enough for us to admire their beauty before disappearing back into the dense montane forest. What an exceptional day of birding it had been!

The following morning, we once again started from Timpohon Gate and birded our way downhill. The route never disappoints, and today was no exception. A family group of endemic Red-breasted Partridges crossed the road right next to us, giving us brief but exciting views. Then came the colourful Golden-naped Barbets, a flock of Pale-faced Bulbuls, and fantastic sightings of hefty Mountain Imperial-Pigeons. 

We made our way to another section of Kinabalu National Park, the renowned Poring Hot Springs. Along the drive, we took a brief detour to witness one of Borneo’s natural marvels—the magnificent Rafflesia flower. After taking in this botanical wonder, we continued on, but the drop in altitude came with a noticeable increase in temperature, which felt like quite a shock after the cooler mountain air.

As we found a strategic spot overlooking some fruiting trees, we enjoyed a somewhat relaxing afternoon, and the birding didn't disappoint. Among the highlights was the rare Fulvous-chested Jungle-Flycatcher, a real treat to spot even if it did give us a bit of a runaround. We also came across a variety of other lowland species like the striking Raffle’s Malkoha, the vivid Gold-whiskered Barbet, and a group of feisty Yellow-vented Flowerpeckers, making for an excellent afternoon in the lowland forests.

On our last morning back up in the mountains, we made a third visit to a small bridge in search of the elusive Bornean Shortwing. To our delight, a male appeared, cooperative and stunning, providing brilliant views of this now rightly classified endemic species. "Never give up!" is the birder’s motto, and sure enough, our persistence paid off. 

Sepilok 

We packed up and headed east towards Sandakan, breaking up the journey with a delightful stop at the Sabah Tea Plantation. Surrounded by scenic rolling hills, we enjoyed lunch and picked up a few tea souvenirs before continuing our journey. Upon arriving at The Forest Edge Resort, our charming lodge for the night, we couldn’t resist a quick stroll through the gardens. To our delight, we spotted a stunning Hooded Pitta—a fabulous yard bird to add to the list!

A night walk led by a local ranger at the famous Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC) turned out to be a highlight of the trip, offering fantastic sightings of some great mammals. We were treated to a rare, extended view of a Slow Loris out in the open and a Bornean Tarsier, surely one of the world’s most unlikely critters! It was an unforgettable experience—pure magic.

At dawn, we set out for the RDC’s canopy walkway and positioned ourselves at the Trogon Tower, patiently waiting for the birds to come to us. And come they did! We were rewarded with fantastic views of Rhinoceros and Black Hornbills, Raffles’s Malkohas, fly by Cinnamon-headed Green-Pigeons, Brown Barbets, Bornean Black Magpies, Silver-rumped Spinetails, Greater Green Leafbirds, and many more. 

After a quick breakfast, set out to explore the trails which to be exceptionally rewarding. Highlights included a gorgeous Diard’s Trogon, a gem-like Rufous-backed Dwarf-Kingfisher, Banded Woodpecker, an unusual blue-morph Rufous-winged Philentoma, amongst many others. But the real star was a surly Sabah Partridge that sought to kill my JBL speaker!

Kinabatangan River

After a short birding jaunt in the lodge gardens and breakfast, we packed up and hit the road once more. Our next destination was the famed Kinabatangan River. Upon arrival, we crossed the river and settled into our lodge, where we enjoyed a relaxing lunch and took a break during the midday heat. Later in the afternoon, we visited the nearby Gomantong Caves where we were treated a neat raptor show as Crested Serpent-Eagle, Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle, Peregrine Falcon and Bat Hawk all made their appearances, attracted to the mobile feast of bats and swiftlets that make the caves their home. 

The following day we ventured onto the river, guided by our expert boatman, Jakob. Our mission: to find hornbills and other fascinating Bornean wildlife. Despite a less than inspiring start in very heavy rain, the weather gods took pity on us and clouds parted to eventually give us an excellent morning of birding on this beautiful river, and on the quieter Tenegang and Menanggol tributaries.

Our sightings included five species of hornbill, Blue-eared and Stork-billed Kingfishers, Malaysian Blue Flycatcher, Black-and-red Broadbill, the often-tricky Violet Cuckoo, as well as flycatchers, babblers, and many more. We enjoyed another raptor show with sightings of Crested Goshawk, Oriental Honey-Buzzard, Lesser Fish-Eagle, Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle and Crested Serpent-Eagle. We were lucky to get superb views of the globally endangered Storm’s Stork. The Kinabatangan River is one of the last strongholds for the latter, and we were incredibly fortunate to witness a total of four Storm’s Storks perched in the treetops—a rare and special sight.

In the afternoon, we had another stellar outing on the river. The hornbills kept coming, with sightings of Rhinoceros, Bushy-crested, Black, and Oriental Pied-Hornbills. And we were most pleased to have not one, but two, sighting of our hoped-for White-crowned Hornbills with their bizarre hairdos. Not to be outdone, we also saw a pair of somewhat bedraggled Buffy Fish-Owls, clearly not happy with the weather. The Kinabatangan River truly lived up to its reputation as an exceptional place to bird, offering a treasure trove of wildlife at every turn.

Tabin

We set out for Tabin Wildlife Reserve, braving a bumpy ride that led us to the remote lodge perched on the edge of the rainforest. After a relaxing lunch and a much-needed break from the midday heat, we ventured into the forest for some afternoon birding and a dusk drive. The highlight of the drive was non-avian however – a fantastic and weird Colugo caught our attention as it got ready for its night-time activities. 

 The following day, we stuck to our rhythm of morning and afternoon birding sessions, exploring the trails of Tabin once again. The forest was alive with activity—malkohas, barbets, hornbills, broadbills, bulbuls, and babblers kept us engaged all day long. A prolonged chase for the elusive Rufous-collared Kingfisher ended in success with great views and a happy band of birders. But the undoubted highlight of the morning was a very unexpected sighting of a diminutive Bornean rarity – a super little Speckled Piculet. This was a new bird for Pol, our Tabin ranger guide, and a new Bornean bird for Susan!

Danum Valley

Returning to Lahad Datu, we were relieved to be back on well-maintained roads, though it wasn’t for long. We soon switched vehicles to take on the rougher roads leading to the renowned forests of Danum Valley. Widely regarded as the top birding location in Southeast Asia, we headed towards Borneo Rainforest Lodge with high expectations. After a quick lunch, we began our exploration of the primary lowland rainforest, an area of significant ecological importance. Even during our brief initial survey, we encountered a diverse and fascinating selection of bird species, including the Asian Emerald Dove, Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Hairy-backed Bulbul, Banded Broadbill, and the Little Spiderhunter. The high level of avian biodiversity in this amazing forest was immediately apparent.

Over the next few days, Danum Valley did not disappoint. The forest presented us with an notable variety of bulbuls and an impressive collection of babblers, including Black-capped Babbler, Short-tailed Babbler, and the more elusive Bornean Wren-Babbler, such a smart bird and seen so well. Other notable species included the melodious White-crowned Shamas, Brown Fulvettas, and an abundance of flycatchers, sunbirds, flowerpeckers, and spiderhunters. We were fortunate to observe two forktail species: the White-crowned and the less frequently seen Chestnut-naped Forktail. However, the highlight of our stay was witnessing a male Great Argus guarding his dancing ground, his powerful calls resonating through the forest. Additionally, we achieved excellent views of the Blue-headed and Black-capped Pittas, prized species among birders.

To cap off the excitement, our visit to the canopy walkway was rewarded with a sighting of what was arguably our most sought-after species: the rare and peculiar Bornean Bristlehead. We were fortunate to observe a foraging group of four individuals for over 20 minutes—a truly unforgettable experience. What a remarkable treat!

As expected, Borneo’s mammalian fauna was equally impressive. We had the chance to observe Maroon Leaf-Monkeys, as well as Prevost’s Squirrels and the diminutive Plain Pygmy Squirrel. On our night drives we saw several civets, including a rare sighting of a Banded Linsang, and nocturnal Red Giant and Thomas’s Flying Squirrels also made appearances. Bornean Orang-Utans, a flagship species of Borneo, were present in good numbers this year; we recorded six individuals, including both males and females with young. As always, our time in Danum Valley was highly productive. The region’s biodiversity never fails to astound, and although no single trip can cover everything, we left with an abundance of remarkable observations and experiences that highlighted the ecological richness of Borneo. Never mind the leeches!

I’d like to extend my gratitude to Andrew Siani, my old friend and right-hand man in Sabah—thanks, Sifu! A big thank you as well to everyone who helped us find fantastic birds or reach the best birding spots—Pol, Mawi, and Niven, your assistance was invaluable. I’m also grateful to our drivers, Abdillah, Jakob, Riwan, and many others. Special thanks to Cheryl Wang, who orchestrated the entire tour for us.

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