Cambodia’s expansive forests and untouched wetlands support a notable collection rare birds and mammals. In recent years there have been a number of discoveries including a population of the near-mythical Giant Ibis, the Mekong Wagtail, the very recently discovered Cambodian Tailorbird, and a breeding population of the rapidly declining eastern race of Sarus Crane. The most extensive grasslands remaining in Southeast Asia are home to the splendid Bengal Florican, as well as the scarce Manchurian Reed-Warbler, and the dry forest of the northern plains hosts some very exciting, restricted range species including White-rumped Falcon, Burmese Nuthatch, White-shouldered Ibis, Brown Prinia and Black-headed Woodpecker. Unlike all the surrounding countries, Cambodia still has healthy populations of vultures, and we’ll visit a special “restaurant” to see these amazing and important birds.
We’ll also have the opportunity to visit some of the greatest surviving architectural monuments in Asia—the temples of the ancient city of Angkor. They represent the heart and soul of Cambodia, harking back to an era of unrivaled influence when the Khmer Empire ruled over south China, Vietnam, Thailand, Burma, and Malaysia. Built at the height of the Khmer civilization, from the eighth to the twelfth centuries, the Angkor complex is known for its extraordinary artistry. We’ll allow ample time to explore and reflect on these architectural masterpieces, many of which have excellent birding on-site.
This tour offers an opportunity to see some of the world’s rarest birds and mammals amid some of its most celebrated cultural artifacts…with the added attraction of some wonderful food!
Day 1: We’ll begins this evening in Siem Reap. The wonderful Angkor Village Hotel, a tour highlight in itself, is a charming small family-owned and operated property. It’s set in lush and expansive tropical garden and designed and built in the traditional Khmer style with respect for local culture and nature. Night at Siem Reap.
Day 2: We’ll begin our explorations of the magnificent complex of Angkor. We will, of course, visit the temple at Angkor Wat, with an expert guide to explain some of the finer details, as well as tour Angkor Thom and other nearby temples. One of them, Ta Prohm, has been left to the elements, and strangler fig roots snake around its crumbling walls and ancient statues.
The birding in the lush forests here is a fine supplement to the cultural experience, and we can expect large congregations of Oriental Pied-Hornbill and Red-breasted and Alexandrine Parakeets, fine views of Black Baza, numerous Asian Barred Owlets, and Hill Myna. In the drier forests we may find Greater Flameback, Black-hooded Oriole, and Hainan Blue-Flycatcher, and Lesser Adjutant can occasionally be seen flying overhead.
This evening we’ll visit the famous Apsara Theatre to experience a performance of Khmer (Cambodian) traditional dance. Night at Siem Reap.
Day 3: Tonle Sap Lake is one of the fascinating geological features of Asia. It’s a huge lake fed by the mighty Mekong River, and on its northern shores the flooded forests of Prek Toal host the largest breeding colonies of big waterbirds in Southeast Asia. We’ll cross the lake as the sun rises, surrounded by small fishing boats. At the floating village we may transfer to a smaller boat, depending on the water level and the size of our group, before entering the narrow watercourses and making our way to the colonies of Lesser Adjutant, Painted Stork, and Spot-billed Pelican. As we absorb this dazzling scene, we’ll search for the rarer Greater Adjutant and the very rare Milky Stork. In the afternoon we’ll make our way to Changkran Roy. Night at Changkran Roy.
Day 4: Changkran Roy promises excellent forest birding, combining a productive trail network with some rewarding hide-based viewing. We’ll begin at a hide where we hope to encounter Red Junglefowl, small groups of White-crested Laughingthrush arriving in their typically boisterous fashion, and the feisty Asian Emerald Dove. We’ll hope for a look at the main prize here, the elusive and highly sought-after Coral-billed Ground-Cuckoo.
Birding on the trails should remain steady and varied throughout the day, with woodpeckers such as Heart-spotted and Greater Flameback, together with mixed-species flocks that may hold Black-winged Cuckooshrike, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Black-naped Oriole, and Ashy and Bronzed Drongos.
Flycatchers should be well represented, with Asian Brown, Verditer and Hainan Blue Flycatchers and Black-naped Monarch among the species we could encounter. The canopy and mid-storey will produce a steady succession of bulbuls, including Black-headed, Black-crested, Puff-throated, and Stripe-throated, while the understorey should provide good opportunities for Puff-throated Babbler and Pin-striped Tit-Babbler. We’ll also watch for Yellow-browed and Radde’s Warblers as they move quietly through the lower foliage.
Other species we may encounter include Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Common and Dark-necked Tailorbirds, Brown Shrike, and Large-billed Crow.
We’ll return to Siem Reap late in the afternoon. Night at Siem Reap.
Day 5: Leaving Siem Reap, we’ll make our way to the Bengal Florican Conservation Area in the Prolay Grasslands near Kampong Thom, the provincial capital situated along the Steung River and roughly halfway between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.
As we eat our picnic breakfast amid the “unimproved” rice paddies, the birding will quickly pick up. Our main target will be Bengal Florican, one of Cambodia’s most sought-after birds. With some luck, and the help of local rangers, we hope to spot at least one as it’s flushed from the paddy fields.
While we search for floricans, we should see Pied and Eastern Marsh Harriers, Australian Bushlark, Bluethroat, and Red Avadavat. After lunch we’ll continue our journey to Russei Treb, a remarkably rich location for birdwatching. We could encounter Black-headed Woodpecker, Collared Falconet, Rufous-winged Buzzard, Indochinese Bushlark, Brown Prina, and Neglected Nuthatch, among many others. Night at Russei Treb.
Day 6: Russei Treb will offer a striking change of scenery as we explore its open Dipterocarp forest, scattered trapeangs (a permanent waterhole) and wide horizons. The landscape will feel immediately different, providing a distinctive setting for our pursuit of some of Cambodia’s most sought-after birds. We’ll search for Giant Ibises, often perched high in a dead trees and silhouetted against the sky. They should remain long enough for everyone to take in every detail, from the loose, scaly skin of the head to their impressive size and posture. It will be the kind of encounter that for some will be the defining memory of the trip.
Later, we may find Sarus Cranes as they feed in the grasslands, stepping elegantly through the open country. We’ll also be alert for the handsome White-rumped Falcon, as well as a supporting cast including Woolly-necked Stork, Black-headed, Great Slaty, and Freckle-breasted Woodpeckers, and a good selection of woodland species, including Small Minivet, Common Woodshrike, and Rufous Treepie. At dusk, we’ll station ourselves at a roadside vantage point, where we might be rewarded with remarkable views of the usually elusive Chinese Francolin.
Late in the afternoon we’ll drive to our next destination to get ready for tomorrow’s vulture adventures. Boeng Toal Tented Camp is in a lovely forest that’s great for other birds too, so we’ll spend the afternoon in search of forest birds such as the beautiful Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Burmese Shrike, Chinese Francolin, Asian Woolly-necked Stork, and Blossom-headed Parakeet. Night at Boeng Toal Tented Camp.
Day 7: There are three critically endangered vulture species in Cambodia: White-rumped, Red-headed, and Slender-billed. There are many causes for their rapid and dramatic decline in the region, including loss of habitat, loss of prey species, and poisoning through veterinary use of the drug diclofenac which is highly toxic to many vulture species. Fortunately, this drug is not used in Cambodia and, combined with Cambodia’s successful conservation programs of supplementary feeding, so the country has held on to a stable population of vultures while the species have disappeared from surrounding countries. This morning we’ll visit a feeding station in the Chhep Wildlife Sanctuary (Beng Toal), which has been set up as a means of supporting the vulture population and conducting research. The ‘restaurant’ attracts other birds including Greater Adjutant, as well as mammals such as jackal, dhole, and even leopard (rare). We’ll visit the hide before dawn in order to witness the feeding spectacle of up to seventy vultures.
After lunch back at camp, we’ll make our way to the remote village of Tmatboey. Improvements to the roads in the area mean that our destination is now only three hours away so we should arrive in the late afternoon, perhaps in time for birding before dinner. Night at Tmatboey.
Day 8-9: We’ll spend the next two days birding around the remote village of Tmatboey, where we’ll search again for the critically endangered Giant Ibis and where there is a very good chance of finding White-shouldered Ibis and Pale-capped Pigeon, although the latter is becoming increasingly scarce. The villagers here work in conjunction with conservation organizations to protect these fabulous birds, and our presence is not only very welcome but also beneficial to the community, as our tour dollars contribute directly to the construction of clean water wells and other much-needed facilities in the village. The forests here are home to some of the most vigorous Asian populations of birds such as Rufous-winged Buzzard and Blossom-headed Parakeet, and we also hope to find Black-necked Stork, Indochinese Bushlark, Brown Prinia, and Burmese Nuthatch. As we rest at a trapeang, Green Bee-eaters, Eurasian Hoopoes, Green-billed Malkohas, and Rufous Treepies may delight us as they come in for their evening drink. Night at Tmatboey.
Day 10: After a final morning of birding around Tmatboey, on the lookout for anything we may have missed, we’ll depart and make our way further east to the town of Steong Treng. This will give us a chance to have good birding the following at Koh Samseb, a reserve featuring a network of river islands in the Sambor Wildlife Sanctuary, and breaks our long journey to the famed Mekong River. Night in Steong Treng
Day 11: We’ll depart early with a packed breakfast and then a boat trip around Koh Samseb for the White-shouldered Ibis, River Tern, River Lapwing, Great Thicknee. After lunch at a local restaurant, we’ll commence our drive toward the Mekong, the longest river in Southeast Asia, and the riverside town of Kratie. If time permits, we’ll investigate rice paddy fields and marshes near the town that may hold Asian Golden Weaver, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Grey-headed Swamphen, Pied Bushchat, or the shy Chestnut-capped Babbler Night at Kratie.
Day 12: We’ll travel by boat on the Mekong where our main target will be the recently discovered Cambodian endemic Mekong Wagtail. This highly localized and attractive species, first described in 2001, can be seen along with the very rare Irrawaddy dolphin. As we travel upriver, we may also encounter Small Pratincole, Kentish and Little Ringed Plovers, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Grey-throated Martin, and White Wagtail.
After our boat trip we’ll embark on our long drive to the town of Sen Monorom, our base for exploring Dak Dam and Seima forests in the country’s north east. Night in Sen Monorom.
Day 13: Dak Dam will provide a varied day of higher altitude birding with open areas, forest edge, and denser woodland offering a range of habitats. We’ll begin with breakfast in the field where large fruiting trees may attract good numbers of pigeons and barbets. Among the possibilities are Thick-billed Green-Pigeon, several barbet species, and mixed flocks that could include Scarlet and Brown-rumped Minivets, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, White-bellied Erpornis, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, and a variety of drongos, including Ashy and Lesser Racket-tailed. Black-hooded Oriole may also appear as it moves through the canopy.
As we move down into the woodland, we’ll look for forest specialists such as Red-headed Trogon, while the more open patches may hold Common Hoopoe and Chestnut-headed Bee-eater. Indochinese Barbet could be heard calling from deeper in the forest, and woodpecker activity may include Bay and Black-and-buff.
The understorey will offer further possibilities, including Common and Dark-necked Tailorbirds, Grey-faced Tit-Babbler, Chestnut-capped Babbler, and the responsive Annam Prinia. Bulbuls should also feature prominently, with Sooty-headed and Grey-eyed among the species we may encounter. We’ll also look for Velvet-fronted Nuthatch and Little Spiderhunter, while flowering shrubs could attract Van Hasselt’s and Crimson Sunbirds. Vernal Hanging-Parrots may flash overhead, and we’ll keep an eye out for leafbirds, including the Blue-winged. One of the highlights could be an encounter with Orange-breasted Laughingthrush. With some luck, a responsive pair may emerge from the undergrowth, offering views of this increasingly rare regional speciality.
In the neighboring lowland forest at Seima, we’ll explore a different habitat and look for a number of notable species; Collared Falconet often perch on bare snags while Golden-crested Mynas could share the same vantage point. Overhead, Red-breasted Parakeet may pass through the canopy, their calls alerting us to their presence while flowering vegetation may attract the striking Purple-naped Spiderhunter, although views are likely to be brief.
Along the forest roads, we’ll also watch the wires and treetops for species such as Blue-bearded Bee-eater. Calls from the canopy could lead us to Blue-eared Barbet and Oriental Pied Hornbill, with the latter sometimes providing excellent views as they fly overhead.
Together, Dak Dam and Seima will offer an appealing combination of higher-altitude and lowland habitats, with opportunities for forest specialists, canopy species, woodland birds and open-country species. Night in Sen Monorom.
Day 14: This morning we’ll drive on to Phnom Penh but before our arrival in the city, we’ll take a slight detour to look for the endemic and recently discovered Cambodian Tailorbird. This distinctive species was first described as recently as 2012. It occurs only in floodplain wetlands where the mighty Mekong meets the Tonle Sap and Bassac rivers. The ancient Khmers knew this area as Chaktomuk, literally “four faces,” referring to the confluence of these rivers and giving the tailorbird its scientific name, Orthotomus chaktomuk. Night at Phnom Penh.
Day 15: The tour concludes this morning in Phnom Penh with transfers to the airport.
Note: The information presented here is an abbreviated version of our formal General Information for this tour. Its purpose is solely to give readers a sense of what might be involved if they take this tour. Although we do our best to make sure that what follows here is completely accurate, it should not be used as a replacement for the formal document which will be sent to all tour registrants, and whose contents supersedes any information contained here.
ENTERING AND LEAVING CAMBODIA: A passport valid for at least six months beyond your planned departure and with at least one blank page for an entry stamp is required for United States citizens to enter Cambodia. Upon arrival in Cambodia, a one month tourist visa is obtained very quickly. At present the cost is $US30 and a passport photo is required. If you do not have a passport photo, you will be charged an extra $2 and the process will take a little longer (but it is generally very quick and efficient). There is no longer a payable departure tax. It is possible to obtain a visa online now, but please be careful to choose a reputable website. We recommend the government website https://www.evisa.gov.kh. Do not apply for your visa more than three months prior to your planned arrival.
Non U.S. citizens should check with their consulate/embassy for instructions.
COUNTRY INFORMATION: You can review the U.S. Department of State Country Specific Travel Information here: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel.html. Review foreign travel advice from the UK government here: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice and travel advice and advisories from the Government of Canada here: https://travel.gc.ca/travelling/advisories.
PACE OF THE TOUR: We’ll be in the field at or before dawn (around 6:00am) so that we can hear the birds singing as the day starts up. For some very critical species such as the Giant Ibis, this may be our only opportunity to discover if they are present or not. Typically, we’ll return to our hotel or lodge for lunch and then rest up during the heat of the day when bird activity is virtually nil, before going out again in the late afternoon.
Our longest walks will probably be at Tmatboey when we search for the Giant Ibis. At Tmatboey, we’ll depart before dawn and walk through short grassland on indistinct trails, the area is flat but the surface can be very uneven at times. It is important to bring a flashlight, and a hiking stick may be helpful. The distance we will walk depends on how quickly we find the ibis, but will be between one to three miles. On one day we will explore Angkor and there will be opportunities to either bird around or explore the ruins, depending upon your interests. We will take boat trips on two days – one on the Tonle Sap where we will use a large, motorized boat to cross the lake, then transfer to smaller boats to explore the inundated forest. At Kratie where we use two six-seater motorized boats to explore the Mekong River with its many islands that harbor birdlife.
Otherwise, we’ll be walking on level ground either on paved or unpaved roads or tracks and occasionally trails. There is some walking through grassland but very little uphill walking. Where there is, this will always be at a gentle pace with regular stops.
HEALTH: The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) recommends that all travelers be up to date on routine vaccinations. These include measles-mumps-rubella (MMR) vaccine, diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis vaccine, varicella (chickenpox) vaccine, polio vaccine, and your yearly flu shot.
They further recommend that most travelers have protection against Hepatitis A and Typhoid. Please contact your doctor well in advance of your tour’s departure as some medications must be initiated weeks before the period of possible exposure.
The most current information about travelers’ health recommendations can be found on the CDC’s Travel Health website at http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/traveler/none/cambodia .
Malaria: Malaria is present, including the chloroquine-resistant strain. Please consult your doctor or local travel clinic for recommendations.
Smoking: Smoking is prohibited in the vehicles or when the group is gathered for meals, checklists, etc. If you are sharing a room with a nonsmoker, please do not smoke in the room. If you smoke in the field, do so well away and downwind from the group. If any location where the group is gathered has a stricter policy than the WINGS policy, that stricter policy will prevail.
Miscellaneous: Insects such as mosquitoes and sand-flies can be a problem although scarce in the dry season. We recommend using insect repellents with a high concentration of DEET.
CLIMATE: Cambodia is generally hot with high temperatures approaching 90 F (32 C) and the northern forests do not offer a great deal of shade. Night temperatures can be warm in the north but generally cool enough, 70 F (22 C) for a light jacket. Humidity averages from 70-80% year round; our visit in December coincides with a period of lower humidity at just below 75%. It is unlikely that we’ll encounter any rain at this time of year; that said, there is always a possibility.
ACCOMMODATIONS: At Tmatboey we’ll stay in a small, very comfortable lodge now with air conditioning and very modern facilities.
The tented camps are not luxurious but quite comfortable. They are large, walk-in canvas tents with a floor. They are spacious and you can stand up in them. The beds are canvas cots and bedding is supplied and clean. There is a tent toilet and a tent shower. And best of all they are right in the middle of some great birding.
Elsewhere our hotels are modern and comfortable with all the amenities one would expect. The hotels in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh are world class.
Internet, WiFi and telephone: Wi-Fi is generally available. Cell phones can be useful while on tour but keep in mind that many countries operate on a different cellular technology than US or Canadian carriers. Your phone may be incompatible with the local system, so please check with your local carrier.
FOOD: The food in Cambodia is always fresh and tasty. The staple is rice, and this will be served with every meal. If you do not like rice, don’t worry, there is enough food in the form of vegetables and meat. Most of our meals will consist of chicken or fish dishes as well as a variety of vegetable dishes. Vegetarians can be catered for but please understand that this is a rather foreign concept to most Cambodians. Breakfasts are usually Western style with coffee, bread and eggs. At the remoter lodges though, breakfast will be fried rice or similar. Western food is available at our hotels in the bigger towns and cities.
Food Allergies / Requirements: We cannot guarantee that all food allergies can be accommodated at every destination. Participants with significant food allergies or special dietary requirements should bring appropriate foods with them for those times when their needs cannot be met. Announced meal times are always approximate depending on how the day unfolds. Participants who need to eat according to a fixed schedule should bring supplemental food. Please contact the WINGS office if you have any questions.
Drinking Water: Tap water should be avoided. In smaller towns and rural areas, assume the water is unsafe and stick with bottled or boiled drinks. This will be provided throughout the tour. A bottle will be provided to fill from a larger water container; please bring your own bottle if you prefer. Sanitation throughout Cambodia, and Southeast Asia in general, is relatively good compared to many tropical areas of the world.
TRANSPORTATION: Transportation is by a small minibus or four-wheel drive vehicles suited to the terrain. There are no internal flights. There are several long drives, but these are broken by stops for birdwatching and rest stops. Participants should be able to ride in any seat in our tour vehicle. We cannot guarantee that couples will always be seated together, although we will try to accommodate on most days. There is one day where we will use boats to get to our birding spot (see above). Life jackets are provided.
Approximate Tour Routing
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Cambodia may not boast the biggest bird list in Southeast Asia, but what it lacks in numbers it more than makes up for in uniqueness. This compact country shelters an extraordinary collection of rare and localized species, making it a true paradise for birdwatchers and wildlife lovers alike. Our journey revealed several of the region’s most elusive and threatened birds, including:
These highlights barely scratch the surface. Throughout our tour, we encountered an impressive variety of other standout species—from Black-headed and Great Slaty Woodpeckers to Greater Adjutant, White-rumped Falcon, Pied Harrier, Great Hornbill, Brown Prinia, Burmese Nuthatch, and many more.
Angkor - Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm
We began our journey through Cambodia at one of the world’s most awe-inspiring heritage sites: the ancient city of Angkor. At its heart stands the majestic Angkor Wat, a temple so central to Khmer identity that it even appears on the national flag. Setting out at dawn, we watched the sun rise behind its iconic towers—a breathtaking moment that set the perfect tone for the days ahead.
From there, we turned our attention to birding, with excellent early results. The forests surrounding the temple complex are alive with birdlife, and highlights included Asian Barred Owlet, Forest Wagtail, Black-capped Kingfisher, and the vibrant Hainan Blue Flycatcher.
Later, we explored the remarkable Bayon Temple, renowned for its serene, enigmatic stone faces. As if the setting wasn’t spectacular enough, Bayon also treated us to one of the avian highlights of the trip—a magnificent pair of Great Hornbills perched in the tall nearby trees.
After lunch, we continued on to Ta Prohm, a temple left largely in the state in which it was rediscovered in the 19th century. When restoration efforts began in the early 21st century, the École française d'Extrême-Orient chose to preserve Ta Prohm’s atmospheric blend of ruins and encroaching jungle as a “concession to the general taste for the picturesque.”
Even here, our focus wasn’t solely on the architecture. Among the towering trees we found a few robust Alexandrine Parakeets mingling with larger flocks of the smaller Red-breasted Parakeets—yet another reminder that Angkor’s magic lies not only in its ancient stones, but also in the vibrant life that thrives around them.
Prek Toal & Tonle Sap
Early in the morning we set out for one of Cambodia’s most biodiverse regions. We drove the dusty rural roads toward a village on the edge of the vast Tonle Sap Lake where we boarded a large boat that would carry us across the northern edge of the lake, offering sweeping views of the surrounding wetlands and distant mountains.
On reaching the floating village of Prek Toal we stopped for breakfast at this lively community set beside the renowned Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary. Later, we transferred to a smaller boat and wound our way through narrow channels, passing roosting Oriental Darters and behemoth Spot-billed Pelicans along the way.
Eventually, we reached our destination: a tall platform rising perched precariously on the crown of a tree. From this elevated perch, the scale of this extraordinary RAMSAR wetland truly came into view. Vast flocks of storks, herons, pelicans, and cormorants circled overhead. Scanning the treetops in search of our most hoped-for species—the Greater Adjutant and the elusive Milky Stork. Patience paid off when we spotted a few Adjutants, but the Milky Stork evaded our attentions this year. That said, enjoyed clear, satisfying looks at this exceptionally rare and highly prized ugly-beautiful species.
Changkran Roy
Changkran Roy delivered an excellent morning of forest birding, with a good mix of hide-based viewing and productive trail work. We began at the hide, where the forest was relatively quiet, possibly due to the unseasonable rain. Red Junglefowl were the first to appear, slipping cautiously into view before settling to feed, allowing everyone clear and prolonged looks. A little later, a small group of White-crested Laughingthrushes arrived in their typically boisterous fashion, moving through in a burst of calls and wing-flutters. Another highlight at the hide were beautiful but feisty Asian Emerald Doves, which fed on the ground for several minutes before moving back into the understorey.
Out on the trails, the birding remained steady and varied. Woodpeckers featured early, with a Heart-spotted Woodpecker showing briefly and at least three Greater Flamebacks encountered along the route. Mixed flocks held a good range of species including Black-winged Cuckooshrike, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Black-naped Oriole, and several drongos—Ashy Drongo and Bronzed Drongo both seen well.
Flycatchers were well represented too, with Asian Brown Flycatcher, Verditer Flycatcher, Black-naped Monarch, and a smart Hainan Blue Flycatcher all recorded. The canopy and mid-storey produced a steady run of bulbuls—Black-headed, Black-crested, Puff-throated, and Stripe-throated—while the understorey gave us good views of Puff-throated Babbler and Pin-striped Tit-Babbler. Warblers included Yellow-browed and Radde’s, both moving quietly through low foliage.
Other supporting species added to the diversity: Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Common and Dark-necked Tailorbirds, a single Brown Shrike, and Large-billed Crows, encountered again later on our walk.
Overall, Changkran Roy provided a rich cross-section of Cambodian lowland forest birdlife, with excellent hide views of some shy species (although our hoped-for ground-cuckoos failed to show) and steady activity along the trails throughout the morning.
Bengal Florican
Leaving Siem Reap behind, we made our way to the Bengal Florican Conservation Area in the Prolay Grasslands near Kampong Thom—the provincial capital set along the Steung River, roughly halfway between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.
As we enjoyed a picnic breakfast amid the “unimproved” rice paddies, the birding quickly picked up. It wasn’t long before we spotted our main target: a Bengal Florican, flushed as we walked through the paddy fields. Later, our local rangers flushed another one much to everyone’s delight!
Russei Treb
Russei Treb proved to be one of the most rewarding stops of our trip. The open dipterocarp forest, with its scattered trapeang pools and wide horizons, felt immediately different from anywhere else we had visited thus far, and the birding was fabulous!
Most memorably, we found two Giant Ibises perched high in a dead tree, silhouetted against the pale morning sky. Seeing this critically endangered species at rest felt almost surreal. They remained long enough for everyone to take in every detail, from the loose, scaly skin of the head to their impressive size and posture. It was the kind of encounter that instantly becomes a defining memory of a trip.
Later, we found a small party of Sarus Cranes, one of Asia’s most iconic cranes, materialised across the grasslands stepping elegantly through the open country. Another much hoped for sighting was our close encounter with a very handsome male White-rumped Falcon.
The supporting cast was equally engaging: we encountered Woolly-necked Storks, Black-headed, Great Slaty and Freckle-breasted Woodpeckers, and many woodland species – Small Minivet, Common Woodshrike, Rufous Treepie, to name but a few. A dusk we stationed ourselves at a roadside vantage point and were rewarded with remarkable views of the usually elusive Chinese Francolin.
Our time at Russei Treb offered a rare and intimate glimpse of a landscape now disappearing across much of Indochina. With Giant Ibises presiding from their lofty perch and Sarus Cranes gracing the grasslands, our visit stood out as one of the most memorable parts of the tour. The combination of these two flagship species, both seen so well and in such classic settings, made Russei Treb a definite highlight.
Veal Krous Vulture Restaurant
Another remarkable community initiative is the so-called Vulture Restaurant, located near the village of Boeng Toal in Preah Vihear Province. While the surrounding forest offers excellent opportunities for a variety of forest birds, our main goal here was to observe the three endangered vulture species that find their last stronghold in Southeast Asia. Just before our visit, a cow carcass had been placed near a strategically positioned hide to attract these rapidly declining birds. This year we had great success with good numbers of all three species, enjoying spectacular views of both feeding and soaring vultures.
Tmatboey
Tmatboey is a small, remote village set on the far northern plains of Cambodia, in Preah Vihear Province. More than a decade ago, the community built a simple ecolodge to welcome international birders in search of two of the country’s most prized species: the Critically Endangered Giant Ibis and the elusive White-shouldered Ibis—exactly the birds we were hoping to find here. Since last year the lodge has been completely upgraded to accommodate a wider range of tourism. The results are astounding – we now have world class accommodation in one of the remotest parts of Southeast Asia.
We spent two days exploring this fantastically rich area, enjoying excellent birding throughout. Highlights included a Savanna Nightjar, perfectly perched at length on a stick, all the local woodpecker species, and the White-shouldered Ibises we observed in the late afternoon, both perched majestically and gracefully in flight. As the project’s own description notes, “Ecotourism in this community plays an integral role in protecting two of the world’s most critically endangered bird species by providing alternative forms of direct and indirect income, thus highlighting the importance of the beautiful evergreen forests essential to their survival.”
Kratie & the Mekong River
Kratie is the premier destination for the highly localized Mekong Wagtail, a bird that favours braided sections of broad lowland rivers with swift-flowing water, a distinctive mosaic of sandbars and gravel shoals, and numerous emergent rocks and bushes.
After a few tense moments, we were all rewarded with fabulous views of this rare species. Our excitement continued as we soon enjoyed equally memorable sightings of the rare Irrawaddy Dolphins that inhabit these waters.
Seima & Dak Dam
Dak Dam provided a varied and enjoyable day of birding, at higher altitude and with a mix of open areas, forest edges, and denser woodland the area produced a steady flow of species throughout the visit. Our morning started with breakfast in the field overlooking a huge fruiting tree that held big numbers of pigeons and barbets. We spotted Thick-billed Green-Pigeons and three species of barbet gorging themselves on tasty figs. Mixed flocks produced a good variety of species: Scarlet and Brown-rumped Minivets, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, White-bellied Erpornis, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrikes, and a range of drongos including Ashy Drongo and a single Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo. A Black-hooded Oriole added a splash of colour as it moved across the canopy.
As we moved into the woodland, one of the highlights was a Red-headed Trogon, it showed briefly but well as it moved as it sat quietly in it shaded perch. The open patches nearby held several Common Hoopoes and energetic groups of Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters, while Indochinese Barbets called from deeper in the forest. Woodpecker activity included a feisty Bay Woodpecker and a Black-and-buff Woodpecker calling from the midstorey.
The understorey gave us birds such as Common Tailorbird, Dark-necked Tailorbird, Grey-faced Tit-Babbler, Chestnut-capped Babbler (heard), and at last a responsive Annam Prinia. Bulbuls were again well represented, with Sooty-headed, Grey-eyed, and others moving actively through fruiting trees.
Further along, we had good views of Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Little Spiderhunter, and both Van Hasselt’s and Crimson Sunbirds visiting flowering shrubs. As is typical, Vernal Hanging-Parrots shot overhead, while leafbird activity was represented by a lone Blue-winged Leafbird.
One of the standout moments of the morning came when a pair of Orange-breasted Laughingthrushes responded strongly to playback, emerging to give excellent, extended views—an especially satisfying encounter with this increasingly rare regional specialty.
Altogether, Dak Dam delivered a broad cross-section of species in a compact area, with a good mix of forest specialists, open-country birds, and canopy species. The combination of a confiding Red-headed Trogon, an excellent showing from Orange-breasted Laughingthrush, and a wide supporting cast made for a highly productive visit.
Meanwhile in the neighbouring lowland forest at Seima we also had several notable sightings. Early on, a Collared Falconet perched on a bare snag, allowing everyone excellent views of this tiny raptor as it scanned the forest. On the same tree, we spotted a pair of Golden-crested Mynas showing off its striking head pattern. Overhead, a small flock of Red-breasted Parakeets passed by, their calls giving advance notice before they briefly settled in the canopy. A particularly memorable encounter was with a Purple-naped Spiderhunter, which fed actively among flowering vegetation, offering clear but brief views.
As we drove along, a Blue-bearded Bee-eater caught our attention, perched on the wires. When we stopped to get a better look, it had vanished, but fortunately we were able to lure it back into view. While focused on the bee-eater, we were distracted by the calls of Blue-eared Barbets and Oriental Pied Hornbills. The barbets remained elusive, but the hornbills obliged by flying directly over our heads, providing excellent, close-range views.
To Phnom Penh and the end of the tour
Leaving the town of Sen Monorom, we travelled south to Cambodia’s bustling capital, Phnom Penh. A brief stop en route for the relatively recently described Cambodian Tailorbird punctuated the drive—and it was brief indeed, with the birds appearing almost immediately upon our arrival. That evening, a pleasant meal at our comfortable hotel provided a fitting conclusion to our adventure. My sincere thanks go to the participants for making this a thoroughly enjoyable tour, and to our excellent local leader, Chhoum, and our ever-reliable driver, Teo, for their outstanding support throughout.
I hope to see you all again!
- Susan Myers
Single rooms may not be available at Chong Kran Roi, Okoki and Tmatboey.
Maximum group size eight with one WINGS leader and local assistants