Day 1: The trip begins at 6:00 pm in Phoenix. Night in Phoenix.

This was an excellent tour, the perfect mix of sightseeing and bird watching. It was the fastest 12 days I’ve ever spent. It was as well my third tour with Jake and he was, as always,sensitive to everyone’s abilities, capabilities and desires. -Kristi S.

Day 2: We’ll start this morning with a drive to Boyce Thompson Arboretum State Park east of Phoenix. Here we can expect an assortment of desert residents such as Black Phoebe, Cactus Wren, Phainopepla, Broad-billed Hummingbird, and Abert’s Towhee. Western migrants that commonly pass through the Arizona lowlands include Lazuli Bunting, Brewer’s Sparrow, MacGillivray’s Warbler, and Western Tanager.  After lunch we’ll drive north, along the west side of Roosevelt Lake leaving the blazing heat behind as we climb the Mogollon Rim toward Flagstaff. Time permitting; we’ll stop at several lakes en route where we may see an assortment of ducks, Western Bluebird, American Kestrel, and possibly a herd of Elk chest deep in one of Arizona’s largest natural lakes. Night in Flagstaff.

Day 3: We’ll leave early for our drive to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Our journey will take us through the spectacular Painted Desert and along the Vermilion Cliffs, where we’ll look for the reintroduced California Condor. We’ll arrive at the North Rim in the mid-afternoon in time to explore magnificent vantage points while birding in the ponderosa pine and spruce-fir forests that dominate the area. Steller’s Jay and Pygmy Nuthatch will be much in evidence and lingering summer residents may include Grace’s Warbler and Zone-tailed Hawk. We'll have dinner tonight as the sun is setting over the vast abyss. Night at the North Rim.

Days 4: After a morning watching the sunrise over the east rim of the Grand Canyon, we’ll stop at various canyon overlooks while searching for the elusive Dusky Grouse and American Three-toed Woodpecker. Later we’ll drive north stopping at an overlook to view the Grand Staircase of Utah where Pinyon Jay and Juniper Titmouse can occasionally be seen. We’ll likely see a wide variety of western migrants including several Empidonax flycatchers, Western Wood-Pewee, Warbling Vireo, Black-headed Grosbeak, Green-tailed Towhee and several species of warbler possibly including Hermit, Townsend’s, and Virginia’s.  Although the western migrants will be our main concern, we may spot at least one eastern vagrant. Night in Springdale.

Day 5: This morning we’ll pass into southern Utah’s Zion National Park, where the willow-fringed Virgin River flows below towering red cliffs. We’ll ride the tram to various spots inside the canyon to explore Zion’s splendid terrain, and once again we’ll have the opportunity to see a wide array of migrants as well as resident Black and Say’s Phoebes, Rock and Canyon Wrens, and possibly American Dipper on the river. In the afternoon we’ll drive to Cedar Breaks National Monument on the west side of the Markagunt Plateau and pass through spruce-fir forest where we’ll look for Williamson’s Sapsucker and Clark’s Nutcracker. The overlook at Cedar Breaks is breathtaking, rivaling that of the Grand Canyon, and perhaps we’ll find Golden Eagle or Prairie Falcon soaring overhead. Night in Mt. Carmel Junction. 

Day 6: We’ll drive the short distance north to Bryce Canyon National Park with stops at several lakes to search for stray migrants. Although not known for extraordinary bird diversity, Bryce Canyon more than makes up for it with astounding scenery. The fairyland quality of the landscape with its spires and spindle-like formations is one of the highlights of the tour. The surroundings might tempt us to ignore the birds, but Townsend’s Solitaire, Black-billed Magpie, and Mountain Chickadee provide welcome distractions. In the afternoon we’ll scour Panguitch Lake high on the Colorado Plateau and perhaps the only spot on our route for less common water birds like American White Pelican, various gulls, terns and if we’re extremely lucky a Greater Sage-Grouse. Night in Mt. Carmel Junction.

Day 7: This morning we’ll leave the canyons of southwestern Utah behind to begin our travels in Navajo country. The drive to Page, Arizona passes through splendid terrain as the road descends through the Grand Staircase to the barren approaches of Lake Powell. At the Page Waste-water Treatment Plant we can expect an assortment of waterbirds, perhaps including various shorebirds. Early September is an excellent time for rarities, and if we’re lucky we may spot a jaeger or Sabine’s Gull. Northern Arizona is memorable for its fantastic geology and both ancient and modern Indian culture. Just outside Page we’ll visit Antelope Canyon, a wondrous slot canyon with intricate, swirling patterns etched deep into sandstone walls. We’ll also investigate isolated clusters of trees; any patch of vegetation here, no matter how small, acts as a magnet for migrants. One such oasis near Kayenta was the site of one of the most impressive fallouts we’ve seen in Arizona, with literally hundreds of migrant warblers and vireos crammed into just 10 trees. During the late afternoon we’ll drive north of Kayenta and into the famed Monument Valley. Most of us may be familiar with the valley from television or magazines, but actually being in the presence of these huge stone monoliths as the sun sets is beyond description. Night in Kayenta.

Day 8: Some of the most exciting birdwatching in the West involves oasis-hopping in such famous areas as Death Valley or the Mojave Desert of eastern California. Oases in northeastern Arizona have proved over the years to be just as rewarding. Today we’ll begin a two-day journey from Kayenta to Springerville, stopping en route at many of the best oases in northern Arizona. Our main stops will be Many Farms and Tsaile Lakes, where we may see a variety of waterbirds. We’ll also search the sagebrush for Sage Thrasher and Sagebrush Sparrow, a recent taxonomic split. We’ll end the day at spectacular Canyon de Chelly National Monument peering down 1,000 foot cliffs at a modern Navajo agrarian society. Night in Chinle.

Day 9: We’ll start this morning at Ganado Lake and the Hubbell Trading Post. We can expect an assortment of migrants, and with luck we’ll find one or more rarities. We’ll drive through the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest National Park, where we’ll check the trees near the park headquarters before absorbing the sights within the park. Our main destination is Eagar, located at 7,000 feet at the base of the White Mountains. We’ll have the late afternoon to explore habitats around the towns of Springerville and Eagar, including St. John’s groves of cottonwoods, and agricultural fields, which act collectively as one giant migrant trap. Night in Eagar.

Days 10-11: For a change of pace, we’ll spend two days in the Springerville area. We’ll visit South Fork, one of the prettiest parts of northern Arizona and one of the best birding localities in the state. Nesting Gray Catbirds are reminiscent of the East (South Fork is the only place they nest in the Southwest), and we may find a few lingerers. We’ll see numerous common migrants and perhaps such birds as Rufous and Calliope Hummingbirds, Williamson’s Sapsucker, American Dipper, or Olive Warbler. The combination of large numbers of migrants, resident ponderosa pine and pinyon-juniper species, and attractive surroundings makes the banks of the Little Colorado river a pleasant and worthwhile stop. We’ll have ample opportunity to birdwatch in the White Mountains at elevations up to 9,000 feet. The mountains here look like the Colorado Rockies, and the birds are similar as well. We’ll search especially for American Three-toed Woodpecker, Canada Jay, and Golden-crowned Kinglet, all of which nest locally in the spruce-fir forest. Nights in Eagar.

Day 12: After a final early morning walk in the cool temperatures of the high elevations, we’ll start our journey back to Phoenix where we’ll pass through five of the seven life zones found in the country. This gives us a chance to search for species we haven’t yet seen. We’ll break up the drive with stops in the White Mountains, and our route will take us along the Mogollon Rim to the town of Globe, where we may see Mexican Jay, Band-tailed Pigeon, and possibly Hepatic Tanager. As we descend from the rim we’ll search the chaparral for Gray Vireo and Rufous-crowned and Black-chinned Sparrows. The afternoon in Phoenix will undoubtedly be very warm, but may bring a suite of new species for the trip. Night in Phoenix.

Day 13: The tour concludes this morning in Phoenix.

2024 Narrative

In Brief:
An amazing 1,994 miles and 205 species of birds were logged on our latest Arizona and Utah adventure. This tour is designed to capture both the indescribable beauty of a vast region as well as it’s varied and abundant wildlife. With major destinations like the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley and Bryce Canyon National Park we were exposed to over 2 billion years of geologic history. As luck would have it our group got to witness ten adult California flying free through the sky at the Vermilion Cliffs. Eastern vagrants were represented with Eastern Kingbird being a highlight. At the Petrified Forest National Park, we had an amazing 18 Sage Thrashers in one tree. The world-famous Navajo Reservation’s wind whipped sand across our faces as we watched the sun set over Canyon de Chelly’s Spider Rock. Not to be overshadowed by the famous parks were places like Arizona’s White Mountains adding a dapper male Olive Warbler at eye-level. Here we were able to unwind, relax and enjoy a few days of blissful birding isolation before ending our tour in the saguaro-studded landscape of the Sonoran Desert thousands of feet below.

 In Detail:
Our first morning we quickly consumed breakfast and loaded up the van to try and beat the heat of the steamy Sonoran Desert. As we headed east through the saguaro forests, we noted several Red-tailed Hawks and Common Ravens perched like sentinels on the cactus tops. In Golden Valley a dark roadside hawk forced us to pull over and inspect it. A gorgeous Harris’s Hawk turned out to be the reason. We scoped this bird as it sat atop a huge tree overlooking the nearby golf course for any rabbits that may have been out feeding. The parking lot we pulled into was fortuitous, as it gave us some other exciting species while there. A Gilded Flicker flashed its yellow shafts as it flew by and foraged on the ground in some plantings for a bit. This was a nice comparison to the pair of Gila Woodpeckers hunting with the same method nearby. A Curve-billed Thrasher ran across the parking spots, eventually concealing itself in a large cholla that harbored a pile of sticks that was likely its nest from this year. A Say’s Phoebe used the building roof to hunt over, sweeping by in bursts snatch up its winged prey. Then we continued east to Boyce Thompson Arboretum. In the parking lot we were immediately alerted to a group of Black-throated Sparrows by their tinkly bell-like call notes. The hummingbird garden was ripe with flowers and several stunning Anna’s Hummingbirds shined in the morning sun with red heads ablaze. Scads of Turkey Vultures were constantly floating by overhead having just come off their roosts among the arboretum’s towering trees. One of the small fountains had a few birds coming in to bathe in the heat of the morning. Lesser Goldfinches were the most common, but Warbling Vireos also came in to get wet, as well as a stunning male Summer Tanager with some blotches of yellow in its otherwise red plumage. Western Tanagers were in small flocks picking on some of the fruits provided by the lush trees. The songs of Bell’s Vireo were in constant supply. Northern Cardinals showed nicely in the native exhibits. This subspecies has a bigger crest, more black on the face, and deeper voice than the more common eastern contingent. At Aguire Lake birds were constantly in motion overhead and occasionally dropping in for a much-needed source of water in an otherwise parched landscape. Lark Sparrows with their clown-like face patterns sipped from the water’s edge. A Black Phoebe flew from side to side picking insects off of the floating algae mat. A pair of American Kestrels were dominating the skies. We watched the male of the pair chase away an intruding kestrel that came in for a second, hot on its tail as they both disappeared over the ridge. Both Rock and Canyon Wrens worked the rocky hillsides here, and Brewer’s Sparrows dropped by in small flocks. White-winged and Mourning Doves were constantly flying by in clumps. Overhead some White-throated Swifts shot in for a quick drink from the lake, and a surprise Vaux’s Swift joined them at one point briefly allowing a nice comparison of all the swift species possible on this tour. A Spotted Sandpiper inched along the edge of the lake, bobbing its tail up and down in constant motion. A Western Kingbird sat atop a snag and swept through the sky while in hunting mode showing its white outer tail feathers nicely. A Western Flycatcher was active feeding through the mesquite trees which were open enough to get a good look at the overall yellow plumage and white teardrop shaped eyering clinching this birds ID. Another Empidonax flycatcher encountered here was Willow. This endangered subspecies is struggling in the desert southwest so we appreciated such a great view of this declining species. A single Phainopepla mostly sat out of view, but occasionally would pop out from the trees with white wing flashed ablaze. We were delighted to see a vibrant male Vermilion Flycatcher coming to the ground from its low perch to catch some insects. There were many Verdin nest scattered over the landscape and eventually we saw a couple of these tiny yellow-faced desert specialists entering their homes. Abert’s Towhees are a riparian obligate that thrive at the Arboretum. We ran into several of these running across the paths ahead of us. A nice water feature had a MacGillivray’s Warbler come in and sit still on a perch, something this species rarely does. Also utilizing the cool water was a Yellow-breasted Chat that gave incredibly long looks, not an easy task with this normally skulky species. As we were leaving, we heard ‘no hope’ coming from the demonstration garden. As a result, we were able to track down the only Inca Doves of the tour, showing their scaled pattern and long tails that distinguish this species. 

Due to some bridge construction we couldn’t take our normally scheduled route east through Globe to Roosevelt Lake, so we detoured along a different route instead. A good thing perhaps, because as we were rolling through the saguaro hillsides our only Zone-tailed Hawk floated overhead. We stopped and watched as this Turkey Vulture mimic displayed its black and white banded tail and feathered head expertly. We soon left the heat of the Sonoran Desert behind and made our way to Flagstaff perched at 7,000’ feet. On the way the views of Mormon Lake were wonderful as we watched a herd of elk resting at the side of the expansive water body. Birds met us here as well, including a confiding Sage Thrasher sitting atop a fruiting shrub. Blue-gray gnatcatchers were flitting from bush to bush and flocks of American Robins floated by overhead. A Western Meadowlark came in for a brief visit and other birds feeding on the edge of the parking lot included Vesper and Brewer’s Sparrows.

The next morning, we headed north from Flagstaff with excellent views of the volcanic San Francisco Peaks and some of the over 600 cinder cones in the area. A quick stop just outside town brought us up close and personal with a flock of higher elevation birds including many Pygmy Nuthatches, Chipping Sparrows, and ‘Audubon’s’ Yellow-rumped Warblers. 

We then visited a muddy tank in the middle of the seemingly endless barren landscape that was full of water and birds including extended views of Yellow and Wilson’s Warblers, House Finches, and a couple Horned Larks coming in to drink. We spotted several Yellow-headed Blackbirds trying to conceal a couple Brown-headed Cowbirds in the flock. A Loggerhead Shrike kept stirring the pot as it flew from tree to tree looking for unsuspecting pray. A flock of ducks kept taking flight and eventually coming back each time to a different part of the tank to rest. It was nice to see the larger Cinnamon Teal dwarfing the much smaller Green-winged Teal in the mix. 

Travelers have been stopping at Cameron Trading Post for over 100 years as they pass through the Painted Desert on the banks of the Little Colorado River. This is still popular with tourists and the courtyard of the hotel grounds usually harbors birds that allow very close inspection. This year a female Black-chinned Hummingbird was frequenting the orange tubular flowers perfectly manicured by the talented staff. Besides the ghost-like Eurasian-collared Doves sitting on top of the hotel, a MacGillivray’s Warbler was the only other bird here. Due to the minimal hiding places, we actually got another good look at this species as it scooted along the rock walls. We skirted the western edge of the Painted Desert and drove by the Echo Cliffs as we headed north towards the burnt Vermilion Cliffs and our next target bird. After crossing the impressive Marble Canyon and mighty Colorado River we stopped to find our highly desired species. Unfortunately, we did not see any California Condors here, so had to move on to plan B. Before leaving Navajo Bridge we enjoyed watching the river flow far below cutting its way through the impressive geologic layers. We motored over to the west side of the Vermilion Cliffs to the Condor release viewing site. As soon as we got out, we looked up to the cliffs and counted at least 10 California Condors effortlessly soaring over the burnt cliffs. Some of them were sitting on the cliff faces huddled close to each other. These birds were great company for our very scenic picnic lunch. It was very special to see these Ice Age relicts that were on the brink of extinction in all their glory. Also joining us for lunch was a Say’s Phoebe catching insects by the bathroom, and a Lark Sparrow feeding in the shade of the wooden fence. The long drive into the North Rim of the Grand Canyon was abound with coniferous forest and gorgeous wildflower-filled meadows showered in yellow, purple and pink. In one of the long meadows, we stopped to admire a couple Swainson’s Hawks which were joining groups of Turkey Vultures utilizing the windy conditions this high plateau offers. A Peregrine Falcon also came in for a fly by and inspection. As soon as we entered Grand Canyon Natinonal Park we noticed a bunch of cars pulled over alongside the road, usually an indicator of something interesting. It didn’t take long to recognize the reason. A huge herd of American Bison were lounging roadside in a short grass meadow. There were several males and many mothers with suckling young. These young “cinammons” are a completely different color than the adults, perhaps allowing them to blend in with the dirty ground color better. We also saw some tourists getting way too close to the aware mammals trying to get some selfies to share. One sees this oblivious behavior on the internet but, it’s another thing to see it firsthand. Luckily, nobody was harmed while we were there. To end our day as the sun set at the Grand Canyon, we were treated to a sensational dinner overlooking this vast gorge.

Early the next morning, we observed an amazing sunrise from the North Rim watching the sun’s rays slowly creep down the sides of the canyon. We then went to the end of the Valhalla Plateau to Cape Royal where shrubby habitat is reminiscent of vegetation at much lower elevations, a result of warm air rising up from the deep warm canyon below. A curious Sage Thrasher met us in the parking lot foraging for food under the parked vehicles. A flock of Vesper Sparrows was also utilizing the area for forage. Violet-green Swallows shot by occasionally in the breezy conditions, as did a couple White-throated Swifts. A Hammond’s Flycatcher repeatedly went from its perch to the ground in the shadows of the pinyon pines. An out of place Rock Wren perched still in a giant cliffrose, this being both an unusual habit and habitat for this active rockophile. On the next ridge over, some striking Clark’s Nutcrackers flew over the treetops, eventually perching in the tallest snags. A flock of bushtits was nice to see as they foraged together through the undergrowth. At the end of the trail, we were watching a Turkey Vulture come in at eye level when all of a sudden, a raptor shot out and started attacking it. We were surprised to see a young Northern Goshawk be the pursuer, wondering why in the world it would attack such a non-threatening much larger bird. This bird’s tenacity was evident as it chased the vulture down into the abysmal canyon out of sight. High overhead a pair of Peregrine Falcons were circling in a thermal. Given the size difference of the two we thought it might be a pair, perhaps some residents.

On the drive north back through the plateau a Sharp-shinned Hawk shot across the road in front of the vehicle before disappearing through the edge of the burnt forest. Our lunch spot had a hummingbird feeder with allowed nice looks at Rufous and Broad-tailed Hummingbirds, as well as a confiding Lazuli Bunting that accompanied us for our picnic. The nature trail at the Jacob Lake Inn was ripe with birds coming into its water feature. By far the most common bird was Cassin’s Finch, a species not seen every year. Both male and female came in to within 20 feet to our amazement to bathe and drink. Joining the party were Pine Siskins, Brewer’s Blackbirds, Lesser Goldfinches, and even a couple Red Crossbills. A major score for us was spotting a female American Three-toed Woodpecker slowly feeding in the giant pine trees right in front of us. As we descended the Kaibab Plateau we stopped at and overlook to take in the Grand Staircase. This spot showed millions of years of geologic history in layer cake fashion with the Gray, White, Pink, and Red levels on display many miles in the distance.

The next day began by heading into Zion Canyon just as first light was illuminating the towering cliffs. We meandered along the river walk enjoying the scarlet monkey flower and fireweed in bloom held precariously from the cliff sides in lush hanging gardens. It was hard to keep our heads down focusing on the river’s edge as we walked in awe with eyes up high admiring this stunning scenery. It didn’t take long to find a young American Dipper foraging in the Virgin River, with much dipper doo evident on rocks nearby. We got amazing looks at a Canyon Wren as it crept up and down tree trunks and picked through leaves in rock piles. The 1.1-mile-long Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel was memorable. We headed east through the well-constructed rock tube and all of a sudden came out right in the middle of the pale Navajo Sandstone formation. Ancient sand dunes weaved through the landscape and yielded a small group of ‘Desert’ Big Horned Sheep climbing up the geological jungle gym. Some of these had neck collars on displaying continued research on this species in the park. At Checkerboard Mesa some distant calls revealed a Juniper Titmouse that eventually came within 15 feet of our excited group. Our lunch was scenic at a roadside rest stop with a Spotted Towhee also eating lunch for good company. At Cedar Breaks the scene was something to behold as the kaleidoscope of colors kept changing as the clouds and sun played hide and seek with each other. The hoodoo ridges far down below looked like rock condos ready for habitation. A flock of mostly Audubon’s Yellow-rumped Warblers also hosted Orange-crowned and a much-appreciated Virginia’s Warbler. A Ruby-crowned Kinglet persisted in its foraging despite something scaring all the other birds away and eventually a white-browed Mountain Chickadee slowly flitted by. At Chessman Ridge Overlook we took in some more scenery, as well as an entertaining Clark’s Nutcracker that repeatedly landed on the rocks nearby to do its namesake nutcracking. It took seeds from the surrounding conifers and placed them on a rock, and then slammed its bill into the seed exposing the tasty morsel inside. After descending the Markagungt Pleateau some 5,000 feet we found ourselves at our next home away from home in Mt. Carmel Junction. This evening there were many lifer pie slices consumed after our memorable day afield. 

The habitat around our next hotel in Mt. Carmel often produces several bird species not encountered at this point of the tour. A short walk down a 2-track through the oaks and junipers was our post breakfast prescription. Here we picked up Woodhouse’s Scrub-Jays in their preferred oak habitat, as well as another Juniper Titmouse announcing its presence loudly. The swallow show here was outstanding. Scads of Violet-green Swallows were swarming over the ponds and were joined by numerous Barn and Northern Rough-winged Swallows. We took time to scrutinize all the species and ages as they lit on the powerlines. By doing so we were able to add a Cliff Swallow to the growing list. We then headed north back up the Sevier Fault line towards another scenic destination. En route a roadside raptor appeared very dark and very large. We quickly pulled over to admire a stunning adult Golden Eagle that soon took off and circled for a while over our heads, slowly gaining altitude and disappearing into the endless sky. While there, a Black-billed Magpie came in to perch on the next transmission pole down, sporting its sheeny blue wings and notably long tail.

Bryce Canyon National Park protects some of the world’s most amazing rock structures. It’s easy to admire the 200-foot tall hoodoo arrangements resembling the world’s largest organ in opulent display. White-throated Swifts shot by across the Bryce’s stunning amphitheater. On the way out we took some time to stop and check out a Utah Prairie Dog, endemic to the high plateaus of southwestern Utah. We hit the highway heading west and once again had an amazing roadside experience. A pair of Golden Eagles this time were flying together low over the pinon juniper woodlands taking advantage of the windy afternoon. They were perhaps hunting together working the grassy areas for unsuspecting rabbits. At Panguitch Lake in the afternoon hundreds of birds were gathered at the mudflats on the southern edge. Waterfowl numbers were high including groups of Canada Geese, Ruddy Ducks, and dozens of Western Grebes in every plumage one could want. With more water than usual and the perfect conditions for floating nests, the sleek Eared Grebes were trying a late season breeding attempt, some of which with young chicks on their backs. There were more American Coots here than one could count, with well over 1,000 tallied. Other species of waterfowl only recorded here at the lake were a single Bufflehead and solo Lesser Scaup. A covey of California Gulls was huddled on the shoreline, attempting to hide a few Ring-billed Gull in the mix. At least 5 Osprey made appearances with some perched on snags, some plunge diving, and even some perched on the open ground. Giant American White Pelicans were loafing on the muddy verge. A darker individual was a young bird that clearly stood out from the adults. Flocks of Brewer’s Blackbirds were constantly flying by, and small groups of Mountain Bluebirds were utilizing the mullein stalks for perching. Also, who could forget the Yellow-bellied Marmot that scurried down a rock wall and shot into its burrow. After leaving the lake, we skirted by the impressive Marysvale Lava Flow. Along the way a single Pronghorn ran out into the road in front of us and gave long looks at North America’s fastest land mammal. We then headed back to our hotel before enjoying another pie-filled dinner experience serenaded by classic oldies tunes. 

The following morning a quick stop at Jackson Flat Reservoir in the town of Kanab was lush with birds. As soon as we pulled up to the boat launch we spotted a couple of Killdeer running around the beach, as well as a few Spotted Sandpipers frantically chasing each other. A sizeable flock of Pied-billed Grebes, we counted 30, tried to blend in with the hundreds of American Coots dabbling about and several Ruddy Ducks were actively diving. A couple Black-crowned Night Herons floated low over the water looking for a roost site before it got too light out. A quick scan of the lake revealed a complete surprise juvenile Sabine’s Gull. This species is normally seen out in the ocean, but this time of year some of them wander through the western states looking for who knows what on their protracted voyage south. A large blackbird flock cruising the parking lot was mostly comprised of Great-tailed Grackles. Across the water a tree had a Belted Kingfisher in it that repeatedly dove into the water for small fish. After appreciating the sunrise over the rusty cliffs of Kanab, we headed back east along the shore of the massive Lake Powell to Page. Just as we entered town a Greater Roadrunner was spotted sitting on a log at the edge of a golf course. It did a good job at blending in as we sat roadside taking in the subtleties of its plumage. A quick stop at the wastewater treatment plant here had a confiding White-faced Ibis feeding on the grass as we arrived. We added a Red-necked Phalarope blending in with its Wilson’s Phalarope cousins allowing a nice comparison of these similarly plumaged birds. Another nice duo for comparison were some Blue-winged Teal in close proximity to Cinnamon Teal, both with blue wing panels showing. A few Lesser Yellowlegs in close proximity to Greater was a good study in shorebird ID. Some Baird’s Sandpipers were larger than the nearby Least and Western Sandpipers it was feeding next to. A surprise Sanderling was a treat here, another species normally seen at the coast. It was also good to see a Semipalmated Plover standing next to a Killdeer. Though these birds superficially look similar, the size difference was quite apparent. A single Wood Duck was a nice addition, this only the second time it’s been seen on this tour. Next on the agenda, a huge airconditioned truck whisked us away up a sandy wash and ultimately to the famed Antelope Canyon where water has etched perfectly smooth flowing walls of sandstone into an amazing array of geologic wonder. This was a highlight of the tour for several, and an experience we won’t soon forget. After a delicious Texas-style barbeque lunch we continued deeper into Navajo Country. Being in Kayenta put us in close proximity to enjoy the sunset at Monument Valley in the evening. The sun setting here provided all with fantastic pictures as the shadows of the mesas and spires became long as the sun was calling it a day. The finale was seeing the shadow of the west Mitten creeping slowly up the sheer face of the east Mitten looking like hands clapping high five for a truly memorable experience.

The next morning we took a stroll around the grounds of the hotel where a couple of migrants were in the trees. A Green-tailed Towhee was drinking out of a broken irrigation tube and a Lincoln’s Sparrow was using the dense Russian thistle as cover, but eventually popped up on top of a brush pile for great looks. Many Farms Lake had rafts of Canada Geese and American Coots. A small flock of Baird’s Sandpipers were foraging in the mudflats just below. Some White-faced Ibis had heads tucked and were sleeping. In a few of the tamarisk trees two MacGillivray’s Warblers were seen hopping around the sparsely vegetated stumps in company of a Bewick’s Wren. Behind us a Rock Wren played hide and seek in an isolated rock pile. We drove through the mud and siltstone pillows of ancient soil to the spring on the other side of the lake. Migrants were noted as soon as we stepped out of the vehicle including several Yellow and Wilson’s Warblers. During our visit here Western Tanagers were seen in nearly every tree at some point. A group of Brewer’s Sparrows fed on the tops of the corn stalks, as were a stunning group of Yellow-headed Blackbirds replete with glowing-headed males. As the group wheeled around the sky in flight, the white wing patches of the males were very obvious to see. Flycatchers were working the surrounds including brief looks at Western, Willow and Dusky. Western Kingbirds were hunting the agricultural fields perched on several of the fence posts. Savannah Sparrows kept popping up out of the alfalfa fields and sat along the fencelines with dapper Vespers. We watched a Green-tailed Towhee and White-crowned Sparrow feed right next to each other showing the size contrasts of these two birds nicely. Along the edge of the spring, we flushed a huge bird that turned out to be a Great Horned Owl. Luckily it didn’t fly too far and we were able to get this huge predator in the scope to see its glowing yellow eyes staring back at the group with an ominous gaze. Just before getting back into the vehicle, we studied a very young Blue Grosbeak’s oddly drab plumage and huge namesake bill. Canyon de Chelly allowed us a look at ancient ruins long inhabited by the Anasazi, or ‘ancient ones’. Their descendants, the Navajo Indians, are still farming the canyon today. The campground here harbored a flock of Western Bluebirds, and Chipping Sparrows were feeding on the edge of the parking lot. The winds starting picking up as we checked out the canyon proper. At Junction Overlook we got sandblasted for a free Navajo facial and took care not to get too close to the edge as the wind whipped us all. Luckily the gusts died down as we ascended the Defiance Uplift. White-throated Swifts took advantage of the breeze and shot by us at eye level, close enough to hear the wings whoosh. On the way back to Chinle a flock of Pinyon Jays flew across the road in front of the van. We watched them come back and forth to some fruitful pine trees collecting pinyon nuts for leaner times. 

We set our compass south to explore the birding hotspots around Ganado. On the way to Ganado we had an 18-wheeler pass us and toss something that shattered the side window of van. While air was rushing in, we were able to spot a highly sought after Ferruginous Hawk flying roadside! Luckily in 10 minutes we arrived at an area that had a conveniently located Ace Hardware. Here we gathered the supplies needed to fix the window of the van, or at least enough to get us to our destination for the night. It was a great lesson in team building for us. Ganado Lake added Northern Pintail as only new duck, but a surprise Eastern Kingbird on east side of lake a was total treat. Sage Thrashers seemed to be everyone shooting into the fruiting juniper trees, and Vesper, Brewer’s, and Chipping Sparrows were in good numbers. After Ganado Lake we checked out nearby Hubbell Trading post that’s been in constant business since the 1860s. Then we headed south towards Interstate 40 and left the Navajo Reservation behind. The headquarters at Petrified Forest National Park were hopping with 28 Sage Thrashers counted in the fruiting junipers, with an amazing 18 counted in 1 tree.  Dusky Flycatcher was seen well in quick succession with Willow Flycatcher. Western Tanagers joined in the fruit buffet. Both Green-tailed and Canyon Towhees were seen foraging in the leaf litter of the well-kept grounds. Hummingbirds included a territorial Rufous at the hanging flowers, a Broad-tailed feeding in the garden, and surprise Calliope perched in a small snag. Wilson’s Warblers showed nicely and a Northern Flicker popped out of nowhere. An American Robin emerged from a tiny tree and we all loved watching a Black-headed Grosbeak rest after gorging on ripe prickly pear fruits that had turned its beak purple. It was hard to leave the treasure trove of birds, but we made a couple stops in the park to check out the eastern edge of the Painted Desert, some informative petroglyphs, and the giant ancient logs that make this region famous. After our long day we headed to the White Mountains, our base for the next few days, to enjoy a steak dinner and celebrate our memorable day.

Wenima Wildlife Management Area sits astride the lush Little Colorado River stuffed with trees and shrubs full of food and a nice assortment of birds. The entrance road gave great looks at lots of Vesper Sparrows constantly flushing from the road berm, with a few Savannahs to boot. A perched Western Meadowlark gave a study in differentiating it from the lookalike Chihuahuan. Horned Larks were perched on the fenceline, as well as a Loggerhead Shrike that impaled an interesting insect-looking creature on the barbed wire fence. The bridge over the Little Colorado River was packed with birds. A surprise American Redstart landed in the tree right in front of us and allowed us to observe it for a long time feeding as redstarts do. A Willow Flycatcher joined Western Wood-Pewees and a Black Phoebe catching insects at all strata of cover. Western Kingbirds were snatching insects overhead and Say’s Phoebe made a brief appearance for a bath. A confiding Western Tanager allowed photographers to capture its image in perfect light. A stroll along the nice paths here was great with Canyon Towhees in constant supply. Some Cedar Waxwings were detected by their high-pitched calls and spotted perched perfectly still in the top of an Arizona Walnut tree. Blue Grosbeaks fed in the verges of the managed fields, mostly brown females for us. Violet-green Swallows were in constant supply jetting by overhead fueling up for their southward migration. The snags in the parking lot had a constant supply of birds filtering through, most exciting of which was a dapper Townsend’s Solaire perched like a sentinel in the morning sun.

Sipe Wildlife Area is a great place to sit down and relax while watching the hummingbird feeders. Great comparisons of Black-chinned, Broad-tailed, Rufous and even a couple dainty Calliope Hummingbird were enjoyed amid the Juniper-studded grasslands surrounding this location. It was quite windy here, but we managed to get great looks at a silent Willow Flycatcher, and the only Downy Woodpecker of the tour. As we slowly drove down the dusty two tracks a meadowlark popped up for an instant. This time it was a Chihuahuan, with its much paler plumage and whiter tail than the Western we’d seen earlier. We relaxed at Luna Lake near the New Mexico border while we enjoyed our picnic lunch. Rafts of mostly Coots, Mallards, and Ruddy Ducks huddled at the west end and no less than 6 Great Blue Herons picked through the chest-high grasses surrounding the water body. We were successful in hearing both Virginia Rail and Sora from the marshes here, but could not get any into view. It wasn’t for a lack of trying. We then headed up the slopes of Escudilla Mountain where we were able to get a showy male Olive Warbler to come down to eye level providing one of the highlights of the tour. Warbler flocks here also produced a coveted Grace’s Warbler, as well as adding Brown Creeper to the trip list. Near Nutrioso we had a sizeable warbler flock that comprised of Wilson’s, Yellow-rumped and two stunning Hermit Warblers. Before calling it a day, we checked Nelson Reservoir. We squinted from the sun as it was the perfect angle for not seeing the water, but little did we know the main show was behind us on the hillside. A Peregrine Falcon shot by us with something in its talons and landed halfway up to the ridge. We watched through the scope as this predator ripped apart what we thought might be an American Coot. The only thing that stopped this endeavor was another Peregrine, this one a juvenile, that caught the eye of the successful hunter which took off in hot pursuit of the aerial intruder. 

The next day we set our sights set on another portion of the Little Colorado River. We explored its South Fork, a gorgeous area with oak juniper woodlands spread across lava flows and a fertile valley filled with birds. En route we counted at least a dozen American Kestrels perched on power lines. It was nice to see this cavity nester so common. Over a lot of its range this species has been in decline, however here it was obviously doing quite well. Upon our arrival to the banks of the river group of Woodhouse’s Scrub-Jays was entertaining as they quickly dashed from tree to tree. A couple Turkey Vultures sat like statues on the largest dead tree, spreading their wings to warm up for the day’s activities. Flocks of American Robins were feeding alongside Western Tanagers on ripe juniper berries. A few snippets of calls alerted us to a Cassin’s Vireo, slightly more colorful than its Plumbeous relative, and a lifer prize for some of us. On the distant mountain top, a bird was perched that turned out to be a Golden Eagle. As the eagle was peacefully minding its own business, a Common Raven kept dive bombing this monster, but never did end up scaring it away. Near the bridge a murder of crows was constantly cawing, exchanging information with each other about the day’s plans. A slightly smaller flock of Bushtits appeared as well. We saw bushtit after bushtit emerge from the willows and counted nearly 30 of these social flutter-bys. Up the road at the campground another warbler flock added additional looks at Hermit Warbler, and added a bonus Townsend’s Warbler with dark mask and black streaked sides. A new mammal we all enjoyed here was the handsome Abert’s Squirrel. This is quite the squirrel with red back, pale tale, and tassel-tipped ears. 

At Butler Canyon Nature Trail we stumbled into a couple of species we hadn’t seen yet. A few House Wrens were chattering about through the forest floor. There were more Red-shafted Northern Flickers than one could shake a stick at. A mixed-species flock contained good looks at a perched Green-tailed Towhee sitting still in a tall shrub, and several “Red-backed” Dark-eyed Juncos were studied. This subspecies range is tied to the southern edge of the Colorado Plateau. A raptor shot through the forest and, given just its small size, we could tell it was a Sharp-shinned Hawk. In the scope we got to study the squared tail and tiny legs of our smallest accipiter. Although not the best looks, the pair of Band-tailed Pigeons that flew over proved how difficult this species can be to get a look at. At Sheep’s Crossing we strolled along the banks of the west fork of the Little Colorado River. Near the end of our hike, just before turning around, a trio of Canada Jays dropped in out of nowhere and perched prominently on top of some lofty spruce trees to watch our every move. A real treat here was seeing two different American Goshawks soaring overhead showing the world who were the true masters of this forest. After this we made a stop at Big Lake where we soon noticed some terns flying around. They turned out to be six Forster’s Terns, replete with nearly all white plumage and black face masks. We also took time to track down a group of 45 or so Common Mergansers, this being the only likely place on the tour to encounter this species. Before leaving the lake-studded high elevation grasslands we made one last stop at an overlook that revealed an amazing look at the immense cinder cone field laid out before us. 

We said goodbye to the high elevations of the White Mountains and made our way back to Phoenix where another suite of birds would be waiting. Before descending we made a stop to take in the antics of a group of Lewis’s Woodpeckers. There were at least ten of these beautiful green and pink stunners that kept flying into an oak tree filled with acorns right over our heads. It was hard to leave such a show, but we still had a long way to cover back to the desert below. 

A quick stop in the Salt River Gorge revealed yet another wide-open landscape where water has spent eons shaping countless canyons. We took our time to work the slopes for another target for the tour, and eventually one performed. A Gray Vireo started singing just as we were about to throw in the towel, and eventually we all got great looks. Although a common species during the breeding season, it’s much more difficult to find in migration and winter. A stop at Timber Camp added a showy Painted Redstart replete with red belly, white eye arc, and fanned tail staying busy while hunting in its unique way. A family of similarly colored Acorn Woodpeckers were constantly flying over the parking area with obvious black-and-white wings. A nice-sized foraging flock here added Black-throated Gray Warbler, both Hutton’s and Plumbeous Vireos and amazing looks at two different male Hepatic Tanagers in the towering Ponderosa Pines overhead. Exceptionally good views of Nashville and Hermit Warblers was appreciated here, as both species foraged at eye level in the lowest branches of the trees. As we were having lunch a few Mexican Jays flew over to check out what scraps may have been left behind, but another oddity also showed up. A woman appeared at our picnic table complaining of severe leg cramps and wondered if we had any salty foods to help with the predicament. She joined us for some salty nuts and chips, with a shot of pickle juice to wash it down. Then we parted ways and headed further south through the town of Globe.

At Oak Flat there was absolutely no water for the migrants, but it still managed to produce a few goodies. A mixed flock harbored a confiding Bewick’s Wren that came in to pishing, as well as several Canyon Towhees roving around in a group like a bike gang of teenagers. Some of us finally got good looks at Crissal Thrasher initially perched on top of a manzanita, but then quickly scurrying a few times along the ground from shrub to shrub like a mouse. We left the oak zone and soon found ourselves surrounded by towering saguaro cactus once again. Our final stop was at the Gilbert Water Ranch where we immediately added Black-necked Stilt foraging in one of the shallow ponds. A serious group of Snowy Egrets were all together in a diminishing water hole with 20 counted in close proximity. A young Harris’s Hawk was seeking shade in a large cottonwood tree. We had seen adult birds the first day well, but noted the streaky chest of this younger individual. At the library pond a pair of Neotropic Cormorants floated by and hopped out onto a rock giving us a good look at the smaller size and facial skin arrangement of this less common cormorant along our route. The last bird we added here was a Common Gallinule, just as we called it quits. Perhaps the most memorable thing about the water ranch was how HOT it was. We relished some ice-cold drinks when we got back to the van. A total of 41 species was found here strewn amongst the mud flats, dense shrubs and shade trees. This was such a wonderful way to wrap up our 2 weeks of birding bliss through northern Arizona and southern Utah’s most scenic locations. 

- Jake Mohlmann 2024

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