Arizona: Second Spring

Day 1: Our trip begins at 6:00 pm in Tucson. Night near the Tucson Airport.

Day 2: The Santa Catalina Mountains form Tucson’s northern border. Along the road that snakes its way to the top, at around 9,000 ft., we’ll experience a wide range of habitats, each with a new set of birds. At lower elevations, among masses of huge Saguaro cacti and in the oaks of the Upper Sonoran zone, we’ll look for Gila Woodpecker, Black-throated Sparrow, and Scott’s Oriole. As we move higher we should have a good chance of encountering Mountain Chickadee, Pygmy Nuthatch, and a variety of warblers including Virginia’s, Orange-crowned (Rocky Mountains/Great Basin subspecies orestra), Grace’s and Red-faced. Hummingbird feeding stations attract Broad-tailed and Rivoli’s, and we’ll be looking overhead for Zone-tailed Hawk. Greater Pewee, and Olive Warbler (in it’s own family) are also possibilities, although the latter species has been more difficult in recent years.  On the other hand, a pair of  rare Short-tailed Hawks have been present recently and we may have a chance of seeing them as they soar over the ridges. In the afternoon we’ll drive south to Madera Canyon, stopping near the San Xavier Mission to try to locate the endemic small subspecies of Purple Martin (hesperia) over the Saguaro cactus stands before continuing to the Santa Rita Mountains and the Santa Rita Lodge, where we’ll spend two nights. The first-rate feeders here attract many species, occasionally including even rare Mexican species such as Berylline Hummingbird or a Plain-capped Starthroat. Broad-billed Hummingbird is abundant. Arizona Woodpecker, Mexican Jay, Bridled Titmouse, and Hepatic Tanager also visit the feeders, and Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher is usually about the rooms or across the street. Owling farther up the canyon might produce Whiskered Screech-Owl and possibly Mexican Whip-poor-will and Elf Owl, although by this time frame they have become largely silent (particularly the Elf Owl.) There is also a good chance of seeing the distinctive White-nosed Coati, and in recent years even a Ringtail has been hanging around in the evenings at the lodge. Night at the Santa Rita Lodge, Madera Canyon.

Day 3: There are many superb birding areas in and near Madera Canyon. At nearby Florida and Box Canyons, Bell’s Vireo and Varied Bunting are usually present, and we have a good chance for Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet. Sometimes the rare Five-striped Sparrow is present as well. Formerly, the rare and localized Black-capped Gnatcatcher occurred here too, but after a hard winter freeze a few years ago they have essentially vanished from Southeast Arizona. We’ll return to Madera Canyon through grassland usually full of singing Botteri’s Sparrows, and in some summers perhaps Cassin’s Sparrows will be present as well. Resident Rufous-winged Sparrows are found not far away and we will likely look for them on our way to dinner in the evening.

Madera Canyon itself is full of birds. The desert at the lower edge hosts many species like Curve-billed Thrasher and Canyon Towhee.  A few Lucy’s Warblers, a common breeder, may still be present (this species in an early fall migrant) and in the community garden in Green Valley we might find Costa’s Hummingbird and Black-tailed Gnatcatcher. While commuting we’ll keep a watchful eye out for the extraordinary Antelope Jackrabbit. Higher up in the oaks we should see Dusky-capped Flycatcher and Hutton’s and Plumbeous Vireos, and sometimes a rarity is present in the canyon or up one of the trails, such as a Flame-colored Tanager or even with great luck an Aztec Thrush (most Arizona records are in August). In most years a pair of Elegant Trogons are present, although finding one is difficult if the male is not vocalizing.  Night at the Santa Rita Lodge, Madera Canyon.

Day 4: After a final morning of birding around Madera Canyon we’ll drive south to Tumacacori, birding along the Santa Cruz River, where among the many Summer Tanagers and Cassin’s Kingbirds, Rose-throated Becards have recently been found nesting. At present, this is the main nesting locality in the United States. Other birds we might see here include Brown-crested Flycatcher and Abert’s Towhee. Farther south, at Rio Rico, we have an excellent chance of locating Tropical Kingbird, and here and elsewhere we should encounter Gray Hawk. Thick-billed Kingbird is likely in the Patagonia area, and a few Violet-crowned Hummingbirds are usually at the Paton’s feeders (Tucson Bird Alliance Sanctuary) in town. Interestingly, we often see our only Black Vultures of the tour here. In 2022 Mississippi Kite started nesting in Patagonia. If there is time, we may stop at Patagonia Lake for Neotropic Cormorant and a variety of other species, including Yellow-billed Cuckoo, Vermilion Flycatcher, and sometimes Black-capped Gnatcatcher, though not in recent years. At the nearby water treatment plant, various ducks are often present, including Black-bellied Whistling-Duck and Mexican Duck.  Night in Tubac, AZ.

Day 5: Today is flexible. If we have seen Five-striped Sparrow we may head west to the Avra Valley where in the saguaro washes a few Ferruginous Pygmy-Owls are still found. Purple Martins will be present and there is a good chance of finding Gilded Flicker. If we haven’t seen Five-striped Sparrow we’ll leave early for California Gulch, on the Mexican border west of Nogales. The approaches to this wild and beautiful canyon are good spots for Montezuma Quail and Varied Bunting. Five-striped Sparrow nests here, and with luck the birds will be vocal and visible. At this time of year the Gulch should have water (perhaps quite a lot of water!), attracting species such as Northern Beardless Tyrannulet and Hooded Oriole. Night in Tubac, AZ.

Day 6: This morning is flexible, depending on our ornithological objectives. We may visit Patagonia Lake if we haven’t been there previously, or possibly return to Tumacacori. On our way east to the Huachuca Mountains, we’ll stop in the Sonoita Grasslands for the newly split (from Eastern Meadowlark) Chihuahuan Meadowlark, Cassin’s and perhaps Grasshopper Sparrow. We sometimes see a few Pronghorn. As we approach Sierra Vista, we’ll watch for Swainson’s Hawk. We’ll arrive at our inn, our home for the next three nights, late in the afternoon. Night at the Casa de San Pedro near Sierra Vista.

Days 7–8: We’ll spend two full days in the Huachuca Mountains, which host a varied avifauna including a selection of hummingbirds unrivaled anywhere in the United States. We are likely to see 10 or more species (we have seen up to 14) in Miller Canyon and at feeders in Ash Canyon and elsewhere, probably including Violet-crowned, Lucifer, Broad-tailed, and possibly White-eared. In some years both Berylline and Plain-capped Starthroat have occurred, and we’ll look for them if they’re around. 

Our birding schedule is highly flexible depending on what birds, including rarities, are about. We’ll likely spend part of one day in Miller Canyon, studying hummingbirds and walking the trails. In some years, though recently absent, a pair of Spotted Owls has been present. We may also visit Ramsey Canyon, world famous for hummingbirds. Tufted Flycatchers have nested up-Canyon, and if they return we’ll offer the option of making the four-mile round trip hike to see these charming little wanderers from northern Mexico…unless of course the road-accessible ones found in 2017 at Reef Campground at the top of Carr Canyon also return. One afternoon we’ll likely visit feeders in Ash Canyon, known for attracting Lucifer Hummingbirds, especially late in the day. In addition, the grounds of our inn offer excellent birding with numerous feeders. Yellow-billed Cuckoos can often be seen on the grounds. The feeders attract many Gambel’s Quail and often Abert’s Towhee and Bronzed Cowbird (subspecies milleri  in which the females are gray). Hummingbirds including migrant species, in som years Calliope Hummingbird is present.  Chihuahuan Meadowlarks are found in the adjacent grasslands and Scaled Quail are nearby in Hereford. In 2023, Montezuma Quail were frequenting the roadside margin in Coronado National Monument and we will carefully search for them if they are being seen. In the evenings Lesser Nighthawks are often flying about under the lights and Barn and Great Horned Owls are possible, too. Nights at the Casa de San Pedro near Sierra Vista.

Day 9: This morning’s itinerary is flexible, depending on what we may have missed in the Huachucas. After an early picnic lunch we’ll drive east to the wetlands at Whitewater Draw in the Sulphur Springs Valley. Depending on water levels, waterbirds can be numerous, and we should see migrant Lazuli Buntings and perhaps Lark Buntings. In 2018, a Groove-billed Ani summered here. A few of the recently re-split Mexican Duck can be found here. Later we’ll drive to around the south end of the Chiricahua Mountains stopping to study Chihuahuan Ravens along the way, and into magnificent Cave Creek Canyon. Night at Cave Creek Ranch in Portal, Arizona.

Day 10: The Chiricahuas are famed for their beautiful landforms and numerous habitats, accessible by a road system running from low desert to fir forest at 9,000 feet. Mexican Chickadee is the only species here that we definitely won’t see elsewhere. Sadly, they seem to have declined in recent years, likely as a result of recent large fires. Beyond Mexican Chickadee, the Chiricahuas are an excellent back-up for higher elevation birds such as Greater Pewee and Olive and migrant Hermit Warblers. Cave Creek and South Fork Canyons will also offer locations for Elegant Trogon. Birds are abundant in the Portal area, and while the species mix will be much the same as earlier, the desert below is now the Chihuahuan rather than Sonoran, which means some important changes in subspecific diversity. In particular, the Curve-billed Thrashers (celsum subspecies of the curvirostre group) will look and, especially, sound somewhat different from birds we will have seen earlier to the west (palmeri), and recent studies have determined that they are also genetically quite different. The always secretive and elusive Crissal Thrasher is found in this area along with a very few Bendire’s Thrashers. There is the possibility of seeing Scaled Quail as well, and Chihuahuan Ravens are fairly common. Our friends in Cave Creek Canyon feed hummingbirds, and in some years we see our largest numbers here. These should include Blue-throated Mountain-gem and sometimes Lucifer or Violet-crowned Hummingbirds, and southbound Calliopes are present. We’ll spend at least one evening listening and looking for nightbirds. Common Poorwill is not uncommon near Portal, and depending on our success in the Santa Rita Mountains or near Patagonia, we may explore the canyon in search of owls. Western Screech will be the most likely new owl, but perhaps we will locate an Elf Owl too, if it vocalizes. While driving through the canyons we’ll be carefully looking for encounters with the nearly always elusive Montezuma Quail. Night at Cave Creek Ranch in Portal, Arizona.

Day 11: After a last morning in the Chiricahuas, perhaps including a visit to Pinery Canyon on the west side of the divide, we’ll descend the west slope and continue toward Tucson. We’ll stop at the ponds at Willcox, where we expect a variety of migrant shorebirds including Baird’s Sandpiper and Wilson’s Phalarope, and if there is time perhaps also at St. David, where a few Mississippi Kites  breed. Night near the Tucson Airport.

Day 12: The trip concludes this morning in Tucson with departures and no birding activities planned.  

2025 Narrative

In Brief:

 An incredible 10 days were experienced as we traversed just shy of 1,500 miles of desert terrain and mountainous scenery tallying an impressive 189 species of birds. The warbler flocks of the Catalina Mountains gave us as good of looks as we could have asked for. These included regional specialties like Red-faced, Grace’s, and Olive Warblers. The towering Mt. Wrightson in the Santa Rita Mountains was a constant backdrop for days as we searched its canyons to find Elegant Trogons, Scott’s Orioles, and an extremely cooperative Five-striped Sparrow that came within feet of us all. Patagonia is world-famous and showed us why with a nesting pair of Rose-throated Becards, several Thick-billed Kingbirds, and surprise pair of nesting Mississippi Kites. The Huachuca Mountains earned our respect as we hiked into its inner reaches and were rewarded with a pair of Flame-colored Tanagers in Miller Canyon, and rare Berylline Hummingbird at arm’s length. The scenic Cave Creek Canyon gave us countless highlights and, besides the scenery, yielded a location we’ll never forget while watching American Goshawk, Spotted Owls, and Mexican Chickadees from the same spot. Blue-throated Mountain-Gems right outside the rooms of our lodge in Portal, and Mexican Whip-poor Wills and both Western and Whiskered Screech-Owls weren’t far away. 

In Detail:

We left in the dark from our hotel to start our voyage up to the top of Mt. Lemmon north of Tucson. While still in the saguaro forest we stopped to take in the sight of Tucson stretched out before us. It was a nice opportunity to orient ourselves with the various mountain ranges in the region including the Rincon and Santa Ritas. We had a handsome Black-throated Sparrow drop in front of us while we took in the scenery. We gained elevation to the picturesque Rose Canyon and the lake it shelters. Within five minutes of exiting the vehicle we had our first Red-faced Warbler feeding in a Ponderosa Pine. It slowly works up and down the vegetation inspecting for insects with bright red face glowing. Other warblers seen well here were Black-throated Gray in the oaks and Painted Redstart flashing its wings trying to scare bugs off the park. Hermit Thrushes were working the undergrowth while a Western (Cordilleran) Flycatcher zipped from branch to branch through the dense willows. Both Plumbeous and Hutton’s Vireos foraged just overhead. Our first Yellow-eyed Juncos were admired, the young with their streaky chests and dark eyes. A local gave us a tip that there was a surprise up ahead at the lake, so we rushed ahead over the hill and a Common Black Hawk was perched at eye level in a giant dead snag. The bird flew from tree to tree, at one point coming quite close to the water to take a scan for fish. It then took off in glorious flight at eye level showing wide white tail band and broad wings. We managed to get good looks at a young male Olive Warbler foraging through the Ponderosa Pines, its preferred stomping ground. It stayed pretty high up, trading places with a bright pink male Hepatic Tanager. We left the lake and headed the other way up the canyon. It was pretty dry, but did manage to produce a pair of Greater Pewees that eventually came in right over our heads, constantly calling ‘pip-pip’. Then we headed to the upper reaches of Mt. Bigelow to do some hawk watching. There was a complete lack of wind which helps explain why we didn’t see any, however the other birds utilizing the forest were fantastic. A foraging group of Mountain Chickadees was the main flock component, but multiple Red-faced Warblers and single ‘Audubon’s’ Yellow-rumped Warbler joined in. Up high an adult Grace’s Warbler was quickly foraging trying to satiate its recently fledged young always close behind. A bold Steller’s Jay came searching for something and posed nicely for photographs. This subspecies is of the Southwest Interior race with white eye brows some call Long-crested Jay. A nuthatch trifecta ensued as Red-breasted, Pygmy, and White-breasted all took turns around the tree trunks. We were swarmed by roughly 20 Bushtits, all coming in close to check us out as they noisily moved on through. A Hairy Woodpecker lit on the tree next to the van as we were leaving. This particular Hairy Woodpecker is of the Rocky Mountain subspecies. 

After lunch we started south on the journey to Madera Canyon where we’d be staying for the next 2 nights. Upon our arrival the action at the Santa Rita Lodge feeders was immediate. The hummingbird show did not disappoint as numbers of giant Rivoli’s stood out amongst all the other ‘smaller’ species that included lots of Black-chinned and Broad-billed. Although Black-chinned has an amazing purple gorget it never minds showing off, the male Broad-billed stunning green plumage, overly blue throat and bright red bill with black tip may have taken the show. The antics of the resident Acorn Woodpeckers is omnipresent as they patrol their territory and excellent food source, while flying every which way and screeching their calls through the oak woodland. After our timely pizza dinner (thanks Sara, Stephanie and Greg!) the lights went out in the canyon and the nocturnal residents started to emerge. A mammal highlight was the bat swarm coming into the hummingbird feeders to finish them off overnight. While the WINGS office was leaving the canyon, they had a young Black Bear walking right up the road and right by their car. We got the message and some rushed down the road, but we couldn’t find it. We did however get to see a Gray Fox stealthily shoot across the roadway instead. 

The next morning, we hiked up the Carrie Nation Trail and into the depths of Madera Canyon. The high squeak toy-like calls of the Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers revealed these monsoon breeders as they sallied for insects from the towering sycamore trees lining the canyon bottom. In the upper reaches of the canyon, we finally heard one of our targets calling from upslope. The Elegant Trogons barking call echoed across the canyon. The acoustics were such it made it difficult to pin down exactly where it was. We followed a couple male Trogons up as far as we could, but the birds never came into view. It was frustrating to feel like we were so close, yet couldn’t get eyes on this treasure. Such is birding. At least a pair of Brown Creepers came to join us, working slowly up the bark crevices of the towering pines. We took time off after the sweaty hike to relax at the Santa Rita Lodge feeders where activity was high. A Band-tailed Pigeon even came in briefly to take a quick drink from the water feature. A flock of Wild Turkeys shuffled through the leaf litter under the feeders for any dropped morsels. Arizona Woodpeckers weren’t shy and came in close to check if any remnant suet was left by others. In the afternoon it was very hot, so we decided to check a water tank to see if anything was coming in. We managed to find the “magic tree” that gave us shade while several species took quick drinks from the cattle tank. Almost immediate an adult Gray Hawk took flight in slow circles displaying its black and white bands on the tail. Male and female Summer Tanagers graced our presence, as well as family groups of Blue Grosbeaks. Common Ground Doves arrived in pairs, showing shiny blue heads and bicolored bills nicely. A confiding Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet came in and foraged within a few feet over our heads in the deep shade of one of the mesquite trees. A resplendent male Lazuli Bunting stopped briefly, characterized by neon blue upperparts and buffy chest. Up the road in Florida Canyon brightly-colored male Varied Buntings sat at eye level allowing close scope inspection of their dark blue bodies and bright red napes. Just before leaving a raptor over the close ridge caught our attention and turned out to be a Zone-tailed Hawk expertly mimicking a Turkey Vulture with dihedral wings and wavering flight. In the evening we tried to listen for Buff-collared Nightjar, but unfortunately there was nary a peep.

Early the next morning we headed out after at first light to Box Canyon. This area has a rich history in rare breeding species and we saw several of them. Some strategic parking yielded a singing Five-Striped Sparrow as soon as we stepped out of the van. It seemed to be favoring an area near the bottom of the creek, but we managed some quick views. Eventually we found where the birds were foraging and one came within 10 feet of one. It was so close it was using Keith’s shadow as cover from the already hot sun! The male Five-Striped was singing up above the foraging female that was acting like a mouse slowly working through the undergrowth. There were some other distractions here as well. Scott’s Orioles were singing from the hillsides and a female was seen well. We could hear Rock Wren’s song echoing off the walls of the steep canyon. Eventually one was spotted hopping from rock to rock collecting nesting material. Just up canyon there was an immense Sycamore tree that had quite the kitty. At first we spotted a Gray Hawk nest easily, mostly because there was an adult-sized nesting sitting a few feet above it. We noticed a much younger white fluffy chick too. While observing the nest a pair of Cassin’s Kingbirds came in for copulation, perched just above they’re recently completed nest. On the other side of the tree, we were elated to find a pair of Thick-billed Kingbirds. We watched the female on the nest incubating while the male was perched nearby. It was getting hot and we’d seen some amazing bird species, so we made our way back out into the grasslands lower down. As if from a cartoon a Greater Roadrunner ran right the road in front of our van. It was carrying a lizard, a common prey item, and met up with another adult bird. They were probably going back to feed some hungry chicks waiting in the safety of their nest. We had nice looks at a Fuertes subspecies of Red-tailed Hawk. This subspecies is the one that breeds in the region, and lacks a belly band one usually associates with this species. We then headed into Green Valley to Desert Meadows Park. This oasis provides great shade, food, and water to the surrounding sweltering desert. We watched both male and female Costa’s Hummingbirds feeding on the feeders and flowers provided. A pair of palmeri subspecies Curve-billed Thrashers had a youngster in tow and were feeding on insects they were finding on the ground. Gambel’s Quail families couldn’t have been cuter. Several coveys with young of all sizes were scurrying to and frow. Some of them were barely larger than popcorn kernels, while others were ½ adult sized. The riparian obligate Abert’s Towhee was seen well. Pairs were hopping around in the shadows picking through the leaf litter, showing dark faces and rusty undertails. A single Lucy’s Warbler was spotted near the fountain. The “Mesquite Warbler” was methodically picking through the tree bark staying sheltered from the sweltering sun, allowing close views of its various gray tones. After lunch we headed north into the Saguaro Forests in search of a couple species. Eventually we tracked down a prized Gilded Flicker. We heard the familiar flicker call similar to the Northern variety, but when it flew in a showed it’s gleaming golden underwing and tail shafts we knew we had a prize. This woodpecker is essential to this ecosystem. Along with the Gila Woodpecker, its excavations of nests in the saguaros provide countess opportunities for many other birds to nest as well. While enjoying the flicker, several “Desert” Purple Martins were wheeling overhead and eventually perching on the powerlines close by. We spotted a pair, dark male and greyer female, entering a giant saguaro to visit their nest. This subspecies nests here and winters in northeastern Brazil. This fact was proven by the continued efforts of Tucson Bird Alliance and their efforts of putting radio trackers on these birds to see where they go. En route to our next hotel we made a quick stop at Amado Waste Water Pond. No bird tour is complete without visiting at least one of those. Instantly we spotted several Black-bellied Whistling Ducks perched on the aerators. A family group of Mexican Mallards picked through the bubbles, and single Ruddy Duck and Neotropic Cormorant also fed in the small pond. Swallows were getting quick drinks. The orange rumps of Cliff Swallows were evident, as well as the subtle brown tones of the Northern Rough-winged. In the hottest part of the day, we checked into our next lodge on the banks of the Santa Cruz River in Tubac.

We had an exciting day planned next. Our compass was set to the west as we traversed the amazing Atascosa Highlands mere miles from the border of Mexico. We checked out Sycamore Canyon and the depths of the Pajarito Wilderness. We left our lodge early so we could get there at a cooler time of day. Our main target was Rufous-capped Warbler, this being the only place north of the Mexican border where they have been reported recently. Mexican Jays were plentiful along the hike, followed by Acorn Woodpeckers in abundance. All the expected myiarchus flycatcher species; Dusky-capped, Ash-throated, and Brown-crested were studied by both sight and sound. The surrounding landscape is unbelievable with lichen-covered pinkish rocks with white wash from roosting Turkey Vultures painting the sides. In a pinch point in the canyon a pair of Canyon Wrens were calling to each other, one of which came in to a tree just overhead. So many amazing places are reminisced with this memorable song as the soundtrack. White-throated Swifts and Violet-green Swallows patrolled the skies. Our first water puddles had a Bronzed Cowbird coming in for a drink. We watched Scott’s and Bullock’s Orioles come in close to check out the water source. An Arizona Woodpecker seemed to also find this spot comfortable spending a lot of time on a dead snag in the shade. We trudged the 1.5 miles to the area where the warblers had been being seen and immediately scored. As soon as we walked up a male was singing loudly from an ash tree. It allowed us to walk up close to it and watch the performance. We were able to watch it feed along the canyon bottom flitting from shrub to shrub. Seeing this amazing warbler where it breeds and on territory combined with the sheer beauty of the Wilderness Area is a memory we will cherish forever. Our lunch spot overlooked Pena Blanca Lake where we did some raptor viewing. A dark hawk with black and white tail bands came up in a thermal. We were hoping for Zone-tailed, but it was ‘just another’ Common Black Hawk instead. Pied-Billed Grebes dove and Green Herons lurked the shoreline. Vermilion Flycatcher males fed in the grassy areas of Thumb Cove, as did a couple hungry Canyon Towhees. We headed east to the Santa Cruz River to try our luck with species seeking water on such a hot day. At Santa Gertrudis Lane it didn’t take long to find a Rufous-winged Sparrow sitting up high announcing its presence with bouncing ball song. We watched many Blue Grosbeaks of both sexes and all ages come in to drink, as well as Song Sparrows of the fallax group. This is the resident subspecies sporting its overall rufous tones nicely. We had fun with the kingbirds here. Tropical and Western Kingbirds were fighting over the aerial rights to the river, and Thick-billed were calling from the shade of giant hackberry trees. Yellow-breasted Chats seems to be singing from all directions. We did get some good looks at several in the lower vegetation along the river banks. Summer Tanagers seemed to be in constant supply, as were Common Ground Doves arriving in pairs. A complete surprise was a Violet-Crowned Hummingbird that decided to come bath and drink over a shallow ripple on the edge of the river. We did have a ‘guide only’ Green Kingfisher but unfortunately, we could not re-find it for others.

The next day headed east to the famed birding town of Patagonia. We spent the first hour of our day in Harshaw Canyon east of the town. This lush canyon has a rare thing that makes it special. That is year-round surface water. This critical feature attracts a host of riparian obligate species that will only breed around this sacred resource. One of the rarest breeders of this zone is the Rose-throated Becard. This species tends to build its large hanging ball nest of fine vegetative material directly over flowing water. We sat at one of these masterpieces to see if there were any adults visiting. We couldn’t believe that both a male, with bright rose throat evident, and a female were repeatedly taking turns bringing nesting material into the ongoing work of art. It was an amazing experience to witness this event of one of the rarest breeding species in the country. After taking in our fill, we continued east and crested the hill to have the gently rolling hills of the San Rafael Grasslands laid out before us all the way to the Huachuca Mountains in the distance. We got out and put our scope to work. Three different adult Grasshopper Sparrows were perched up and evident, all with mouth’s full of caterpillars and what else…grasshoppers. Clearly these birds were coming in to feed the hungry mouths of some young chicks awaiting patiently in a nearby grass clump. Another sparrow that breeds during the monsoons is the Botteri’s Sparrow. Initially we heard its song being yelled out from a distant hilltop, but eventually were able to see one at about 30 feet away as it sat calling from a dwarf mesquite tree. Although this species doesn’t have the flashy filed marks of so many birds in the region, it was nice to see the intricate pattern of the head, back, and tail which helps it blend in with this flowing landscape. After taking in one last vast view, we went back to the town of Patagonia and the remarkable Paton Center for Hummingbirds. Countless birders have gotten their lifer Violet-crowned Hummingbird at this location of the last decades, and today was no exception. The feeders here were a flurry with activity. Mostly Broad-billed and Black-chinned were the main consumers of sugar water, but a single male Anna’s Hummingbird stole the show at one point with his gleaming red head. Several times multiple Violet-crowned would come in and add a unique variety of beauty to the hive of activity. Their stark white throats and front, in comparison to their grayish backs was contrast enough, but throwing in their absolutely stunning violet crown that glows even in the shade was truly unforgettable. We spent our lunch overlooking an area where Mississippi Kites were breeding in hopes of spotting one while scarfing down our delicious sandwiches. Although we didn’t see them when eating, we did manage to find the pair of adult kits sitting on some flimsy snags just across the street when we left. We rushed right over to the area they were sitting and studied these gorgeous raptors in the scope. One of the adults had a large insect in its bill, perhaps a cicada or sphynx moth. In unison the pair took off with one of the adults undoubtedly taking that food to the nest that was nearby, while the other soared directly overhead in some sweeping loops showing its slim flight profile perfectly. Keith was excited to get his last raptor lifer possible in North America, an amazing feat. After we had our fill, a Yellow-billed Cuckoo came in like a streak. We couldn’t believe that it actually perched in the open for all to see well, not an easy task with this skulky riparian obligate. We then started our voyage to Sierra Vista to our next lodge. En route we slammed on the breaks to admire a stunning Swainson’s Hawk initially spotted on a roadside transmission pole. Eventually it took off and circled overhead allowing close looks at its dark flight feathers and pale underwings, a unique feature for the raptors of this region. In the evening after our delicious catered Mexican dinner, we tried owling a bit. Instantly there was a Great Horned Owl spotted sitting right on the roof of the Casa. Eventually it jumped onto the motus tower and allowed extended views. Just after this we heard an American Barn Owl shreek as it exited its daytime roost hole. The winds picked up and monsoon clouds were building as it started to rain droplets. These conditions are not great for night birds, so we tucked back into our comfortable abode for the night. 

The next morning we drove up the two-track to Beatty’s Guest Ranch in the world famous Miller Canyon. We started by trekking up an old road bed to an area with some ruins. It was in this zone we heard our prized target singing as soon as we got there. A male Flame-colored Tanager was feeding in the tree canopy, occasionally dropping down to eye level chasing insects. The yellow female partner sat nearby calling the whole time. We spent a while trying to follow them up and down the canyon. It’s no surprise this was Chris’s favorite bird of the trip. It wasn’t until the Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher showed up with its squeaky call that we decided to head back down the canyon. We also had great views of several Plumbeous Vireos on the hike, which were welcome breaks along the way. Then we checked out the Controlled Access Site at Beatty’s where the hummingbird show was incredible. A Violet-Crowned Hummingbird kept chasing absolutely every species away from the feeder it was defending. Fortunately when taking a break from bouts of joust it would perch at eye level completely in the open. Lots of Rufous Hummingbirds chased away most things from their ports, but couldn’t budge the huge Rivoli Hummers from ingesting. Male Broad-tailed Hummingbird was new, and what a show stopper with its shiny red throat and trilling wing noise. We then made our way up Carr Canyon Road, whose condition could be described as bumpy. We persevered at a slow pace to emerge into the Ponderosa Pine Forest and a new landscape to explore. At Reed Campground we had two different family groups of Buff-breasted Flycatchers. The adult birds were actively foraging for insects, dropping to the ground from low perches, and instantly bringing back the morsels to the awaiting fledgling with mouth agape and wings outstretched. Other than hearing a distant Woodhouse’s Scrub-Jay calling, there wasn’t much more on the top of the mountain. On the way back down, we did have a flyover Zone-tailed Hawk soar right by a Turkey Vulture for nice comparative views, however it instantly disappeared into a side canyon along the reef. At one point we had a particularly confiding Rufous-crowned Sparrow perch up and sing its heart our right in front of us, for quite a long time. This evening we we back into the Huachucas in search of night birds. As the sun was setting a Common Poorwill began singing. Rain drops started falling and the wind picked up. This inspired a couple Elf Owls to start calling from the slopes below. We did manage to get pretty close as they changed up their calls regularly, but couldn’t get eyes on them. On the way back to our lodge the skies lit up with lighting streaks and thunder rolled across the plain. And just like that it began to rain, hard. We were excited to be in our first official monsoon rain storm. 

After yet another delicious breakfast of the best pancakes in the world, we went exploring more of the Huachuca Mountains. We headed west through Montezuma Canyon to the pass that straddles two amazing valleys. One way is the San Rafael Valley, a major migratory for wildlife across the US Mexican border. There are at least 27 miles of border wall slated to blast through this valley very soon, so it will look a lot different. The other direction overlooks the San Pedro Valley. This direction already has wall constructed as far as the eye can see. We pondered what the future looks like for this amazing place. While observing we had several White-throated Swifts dive down just overhead and a Rufous-crowned Sparrow sitting on the guardrail with food in its mouth ready to jump into its nest at any moment. The Scott’s orioles trottling whistles flowed from the hillsides. All this while Cassin’s Kingbirds sat up high enjoying the show. Driving through the grassy oak woodland led us to a canyon on the southwest slopes of the Huachucas. It was lined with beautiful large sycamore trees and the trail slowly meandered up the gentle slope. We were hoping for a look at some Trogons, but there were none announcing their presence while there. Some Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers revealed their nest location, a well-worn hole near the top of a dead Sycamore snag. Dusky-capped Flycatchers chased each other through the treetops. Plumbeous and Hutton’s Vireos were in full song and Arizona Woodpecker called from the slopes. With a swoosh a large female Cooper’s Hawk came in for a look at us visitors, and maybe to make sure the coast was clear. Soon after three juvenile Cooper’s Hawks came in to the area, shrieking with glee the whole time. It was pretty cool to be in such a gorgeous remote canyon in the border region all by ourselves for the morning. In the afternoon we cruised slowly through the oaks searching roadsides for any quail, of which we saw none. It was interesting how dry the landscape was here, evidence of the severe continuing drought in the desert southwest. After lunch checked the dry grasslands, and found a pair of pale Chihuahuan Meadowlarks perched in the top of a dead juniper tree. We noted the yellow restricted to the throat, bold black head stripes, and unique song of this desert meadowlark. Over to Ash Canyon Bird Sanctuary we went, to check out the amazing feeder array they maintain at this stunning location. Our main target here was Lucifer Hummingbird. This is the most consistent place in the region to see this amazing monsoon hummingbird. We had a male come in periodically the entire time we were there. It’s glowing wine-colored gorget and long decurved bill were glowing. Another hummer here we were after was Calliope. We had a male professionally sporting bold purple throat streaks as it was mostly being chased away from the best feeders. Occasionally it would perch in the open to catch its breath allowing close study of the smallest North American hummingbird. 

Our next day we were to transit from the Huachuca to the Chiricahua Mountains. Before leaving we swung by Ramsey Canyon Preserve and within minutes of them opening had a gorgeous adult Berylline Hummingbird visiting a feeder right before our very eyes. En route to the “Chiris” we stopped at Whitewater Draw Wildlife Management Area. This expanse of valley bottom is managed by Arizona Game and Fish largely for wintering Sandhill Cranes, but the scarce water source attracts birds year-round. So many Sora called all around us while at the edge of the marsh. We watched the grass move as bold ones came in close, and eventually had one fly across an open water patch in full view. Swallows were catching the insects provided by the wetlands. They included Tree, Barn, Northern Rough-winged and single Bank that kept sweeping back and forth over the surface of the water. In the shrubby surrounds of Whitewater, we had an amazing experience with a Bendire’s Thrasher that felt comfortable enough to sit on in the top of an isolated snag and belt outs its paired song. It was nice to see the straight lower mandible with such detail in the scope. In an agricultural field being irrigated there was a small flock of Chihuahuan Ravens randomly perched soaking in the cooler temps and moisture. We were delighted to see more than a dozen Swainson’s Hawks also utilizing the resource, with one juvenile bird sitting within a few feet of one of the sprinklers seemingly unable to move from satisfaction. Some dark birds in the shrubs across the road turned out to be male Lark Buntings retaining much of their breeding colors. Our first Yellow-headed Blackbird was riding the sprinkler systems strategically staying in the shade of the arm. After an authentic Sonoran-styled Mexican lunch we headed over to Portal at the mouth of Cave Creek Canyon in the sizeable Chiricahua Mountains. In the evening we enjoyed a showing of Lesser Nighthawks lazily soaring just overhead while snatching insects at will. This combined with the lighting, thunder, and towering gray and yellow clouds associated with the monsoons was pretty incredible. As the sun set, we headed into the inner reaches of Cave Creek Canyon to scour the Sycamore-laden landscape for night birds. In a relatively short distance and amount of time, we came away with extensive vocalizations and at least brief looks at Mexican Whip-poor-will at its hawking perch, and both Whiskered and Western Screech-Owls coming in for lit up views. 

The next day was our day to explore the, the largest “Sky Island”. We took the dry bumpy road up and over Onion Saddle to Pinery Canyon, where a page in all our birding history books was drafted. All of a sudden, the van came to a stop and were eye-to-eye with a huge American “Apache” Goshawk. We all got great looks as it sat still and posed for 10 minutes, before taking off down-canyon. Conveniently another highlight was perched overhead when we parked. An adult Spotted Owl was taking shelter in the lee of a towering pine tree. Just up the road a white fluffy recently fledged owl that kept shrieking for the adult to feed it. It had a long time to wait before the sun faded again and darkness began. It was hard to pull ourselves away to enjoy time being spent with a pair of Mexican Chickadees that decided to come forage during our already exciting visit. This is the only easily accessible range where this species occurs north of the Mexican border so we felt fortunate to have them be the bird we departed with. Off to Paradise next, the town not the idyllic state, although judging by the suite of birds we encountered one could argue. We tallied a male Black-chinned Sparrow tee-peed on a short pine tree rendering a perfect bouncing ball song. Further along the creek a dark raptor-like object with a dihedral flight caught our eye. It was an adult Zone-tailed Hawk slowly floating over the road. We got out and photographed its black and white banded tail and feathered head. While watching the area it dove into the creek, we heard an interesting sound. Some calls led us to a plain-colored Juniper Titmouse, gray with glee is it foraged through the oak-juniper hillsides. At the George Walker House it took a while, but we all thought it well worth the wait to see a male White-eared Hummingbird finally coming into the feeders. As the light was fading, we stopped in the ‘Big Thicket’ where a couple Crissal Thrashers and feisty Black-tailed Gnatcatcher both stood out. After the sun fell, we had a ridiculously good look at a Western Screech-Owl perfectly perched, for as long we would hope for, continuously singing and communicating with what was likely its next of kin. A distant Elf Owl caught our attention. We made our way to its remote location and managed to position quite close. Just as we had the crosshairs on the calling bird a White-winged Dove freaked out and smashed its wings on every branch of the tree right by the calling owl as it left. Needless to say, we’re pretty sure the owl exited the vicinity at that point. 

The next morning, we entered the scenic Cave Creek Canyon and drove slowly up its South Fork. We picked a fortuitous place to park the van because within five minutes of exiting a female Elegant Trogon flew right by our heads and landed in a Sycamore Tree quite close. We watched for the next few minutes as she repeatedly plucked ripe choke cherries from a tree, a crucial food source this time of year. Up at the Research Station things were hopping. The hummingbird show was unmatched. Both the giants, Rivoli’s and Blue-throated Mountain-gems, were sparring for the best positions at the feeders. One particular Mountain-gem was a big bully, constantly chasing any other species away with fury. At one point it pinned another hummingbird to the mat, inspiring an intervention. We had a brief look at another Berylline Hummingbird here, and the male Costa’s was astounding in the morning light. The shiny orange gorget of the reddish male Rufous Hummingbirds glittered at just the right angle. The aggressive behavior of these migrant hummingbirds was entertaining, constantly chasing around anything that came into their radars. At Willcox Lake and Golf Course shorebird migration was in full swing. A pair of Black Terns coursed over the pond like bats and a single Ring-billed Gull sat motionless the entire time we were there. Thirteen species of shorebirds was tallied. A good peep comparison was had between Least and Western Sandpipers, and a rarity Semi-palmated Sandpiper foraged quite close. Migrating Baird’s Sandpipers allowed close inspection. Hundreds of Wilson’s Phalaropes spun in their circles and a few Stilt Sandpipers bent way over probing through the mud. Lanky Black-necked Stilts walked around the muddy edges and American Avocets showed their feeding technique of sweeping their bills back and forth just under the surface of the water. A small flock of White-faced Ibis clearly showed their pink irises and several Long-billed Dowitchers sported their sewing machine style feeding techniques with gusto. We admired their very attractive breeding plumages rarely seen by us. Just before leaving we checked the golf course, where Jeff quickly spotted a pair of Scaled Quail taking shade under a bushy tamarisk tree. It was pretty gratifying to finally catch up with this species we had spent so much time searching for over the week.

With a final delicious dinner in central Tucson, we reminisced about all the good times we’d shared over the last 10 days. We talked about our favorite places that we stayed, with the majority of us agreeing that Casa de San Pedro probably took the cake. It’s hard to beat the hospitality of the gracious hosts here, and the fact they make breakfast for us every morning didn’t hurt. Of the many amazing birds we encountered, highlights included Rufous-capped Warbler, Flame-colored Tanager, Rose-throated Becard, and Spotted Owl. It’s hard to believe we saw all of these birds, any one of them being a well-deserved highlight for any trip to the region. Our overall favorite place we visited was the Chiricahua Mountains. The largest sky island has an incredible mix of divergent habitats all coming together in one of the most scenic parts of the country. We’ll all remember the 189 species of birds we encountered in different ways, and think back on this trip as one of the best we’ve ever had.

Jake Mohlmann 2025

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