Day 1: The tour begins late morning in Buenos Aires. After lunch, we’ll visit the wetland reserve of Costanera Sur, established on reclaimed land very close to the city center. Depending on water levels, this reserve may hold a good selection of waterbirds, including White-tufted Grebe, Whistling Heron, Lake Duck, and sometimes the rather local Masked Duck. White-winged, Red-gartered, and Red-fronted Coots form groups and Plumbeous Rails nest among the aquatic vegetation. Nanday Parakeets may join the flocks of Monk Parakeets that chatter in the surrounding trees. Night in Buenos Aires. 

Day 2: We’ll depart for San Clemente del Tuyu, a coastal resort southeast of Buenos Aires. Here we’ll explore many different habitats including coastal, wetland, and pampas areas. Night in San Clemente. 

Day 3: After an early morning visit to San Clemente harbor to look for the endangered Olrog’s Gull, we’ll explore nearby Punta Rasa, an area of sand dunes and salt marshes. On the sandy beaches and mudflats, we could encounter flocks of waders, including American Oystercatcher, hundreds of White-rumped Sandpipers, large flocks of wintering terns, including a few local Snowy-crowned Terns, and groups of graceful Black Skimmers. In the reeds and rushes around the salt marsh we may see Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail and Long-tailed Reedfinch. On the edge of town we’ll hope to find Firewood-gatherer, named for its habit of building enormous nests of dry sticks. In the afternoon we’ll explore pampas areas just inland, where we should detect Maguari Stork, Yellow-billed Pintail, Rosy-billed Pochard, Southern Screamer, Snail Kite, Guira Cuckoo, and possibly Scarlet-headed Blackbird, among many others. We’ll also search for Greater Rhea, Spotted Nothura, Silver Teal, and the elusive South American Painted Snipe. Night in San Clemente. 

Day 4: We’ll depart early as we have many stops including a reed-fringed canal where we’ll hope to encounter Stripe-backed Bittern, Black-headed Duck, both Curve-billed and Sulphur-bearded Reedhaunters, Wren-like Rushbird, Warbling Doradito, and Many-colored Rush-Tyrant. Our day’s focus will be on species that inhabit the more wooded areas, including Dark-billed Cuckoo, Freckle-breasted Thornbird, and Black-and-rufous and Black-capped Warbling Finches. Long-winged Harrier may fly by as we look for Giant Wood Rail and any other pampas birds we may have missed during our time in San Clemente. We’ll return to Buenos Aires in the late afternoon for our flight to Trelew in northern Patagonia. Night in Trelew. 

Day 5: We’ll visit the vast Magellanic Penguin colony at Punta Tombo. The colony is a reserve, but carefully roped-off walkways allow superb viewing and photography. The bay beneath should hold a few Great Grebes in their attractive breeding plumage, and it’s here that we’ll look for the White-headed Steamer-Duck, a recently split species of very limited range. Southern Giant-Petrels cruise back and forth offshore, and Brown (Southern) Skuas could be scavenging amidst the colony if there are small chicks. In the afternoon we’ll explore several bodies of water around Trelew with hopes of finding Black-headed Duck, White-cheeked Pintail and, in most years, Silvery Grebe. Night in Trelew. 

Day 6: We’ll drive to Puerto Madryn, the gateway to the world-famous Valdez peninsula. En route we’ll probably see our first Elegant Crested Tinamous, by far the most obliging of the normally skulking tinamou family, and we’ll look for the unique Burrowing Parakeet, related to macaws and the only species in its genus. We’ll stop in the semi-desert scrub to look for a variety of small passerines, including the local White-throated Cacholote, which builds large stick nests, and we’ll watch out for the distinctive display flights of the Carbonated Sierra-Finch, an Argentinian endemic. We’ll end the day in nearby Puerto Piramides. Night in Puerto Piramides.  

Day 7: Starting early, we’ll visit the desert near town to look for a variety of special passerines, including Scale-throated Earthcreeper, Patagonian Canastero, Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail, and Lesser Shrike-Tyrant. Darwin’s Nothuras could be calling in the scrub, and if we are lucky we might spot one. After breakfast we’ll drive around the peninsula, stopping along the way to look for Darwin’s Rheas, the “monte” endemic Rusty-backed Monjita, Guanacos, Patagonian Foxes, and bizarre Patagonian Hares (Maras). Our destination is Punta Norte, where the beaches harbor Southern Elephant Seals as well as South American Sea Lions with newborn pups. On rare occasions Orcas are seen cruising up and down offshore. Night in Puerto Piramides. 

Day 8: We’ll return to Trelew for our flight to Ushuaia on the south side of Tierra del Fuego and adjacent to the spectacular Beagle Channel. We should arrive by midday, giving us time to explore the harbor, where Flightless Steamer-Ducks and Dolphin Gulls are both tame and common and where we’ll be able to study our first Kelp Geese and Chilean Skuas. Night in Ushuaia. 

Day 9: We’ll spend the day in Tierra del Fuego National Park, with its beautiful landscapes of southern beech forests, lakes, and rivers. We’ll focus on forest birds, hoping to see the splendid Magellanic Woodpecker, Dark-bellied Cinclodes, White-throated Treerunner, Fire-eyed Diucon, Chilean Swallow, Austral Thrush, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Black-chinned Siskin, Patagonian Sierra-Finch, and the delightfully entertaining Thorn-tailed Rayadito. We’ll also explore the southern beech forest around Acigami Lake in search of Austral Blackbird, Austral Pygmy Owl, and/or Magellanic Tapaculo. Returning to town in the afternoon, we may have time for a quick peek at the local trash dump, a reliable site for White-throated Caracara, along with scores of gulls and skuas. Night in Ushuaia. 

Day 10: We’ll cruise down the Beagle Channel, joining others on a large catamaran for what is primarily a boat trip, although from time to time we’ll pull up close to various islands inhabited by sea lions and seabirds. We should see the graceful Black-browed Albatross along with giant-petrels and skuas. We may be lucky enough to see a Blackish Cinclodes, a recent colonizer to the islands at the mouth of Ushuaia Bay. We’ll stop at cormorant rookeries containing two different species, Imperial and Magellanic, and we’ll also encounter South American Tern. We’ll pull up on shore and overlook a Magellanic Penguin colony that, although small compared to those farther north, attracts from time to time other species of penguin. In recent years a small colony of Gentoos has become established, and there is even the chance of a King!  

In the afternoon we’ll begin our drive to Tolhuin, in the middle of the island. We’ll head out across Tierra del Fuego through spectacular mountain scenery with snow-capped peaks, forested slopes and glacial lakes. We’ll stop along the way, especially if there are species we’re still missing. Night in Tolhuin. 

Day 11: Today we'll visit the mountains outside of town, reaching areas above treeline. During the hike we'll search for a suite of unique birds: Yellow-bridled Finch, Ochre-naped and Dark-faced Ground-Tyrants, and Gray-flanked Cinclodes. This spot has become a reliable place to look for the highly sought-after White-bellied Seedsnipe and we'll have a chance to see Rufous-chested Dotterels on their breeding grounds. Night in Tolhuin. 

Day 12: We’ll fly northwest to El Calafate. After checking into our hotel we’ll visit the shores of nearby Lago Argentino to look for the delightful Magellanic Plover, a species in its own family, which pirouettes in the mud on bubblegum-pink legs. Other birds of interest are likely to include Chilean Flamingo, Cinereous Harrier, Crested Duck, Red Shoveler, Andean Duck, Magellanic Oystercatcher and Two-banded Plover. Night in El Calafate. 

Day 13: We’ll spend the day visiting Los Glaciares National Park and the Moreno Glacier, a vast tongue of ice slowly descending from the Andes into Lago Argentino. The Perito Moreno Glacier has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a major tourist destination in Argentina. We’ll visit the best viewpoints and may witness chunks of ice calve off into the lake below with a tremendous crash. En route to the glacier we’ll pass through magnificent southern beech forests, open meadows, and farmland, each home to a variety of birds. Highlights will likely include Black-faced Ibis, Ashy-headed Goose, Andean Condor, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Austral Parakeet, Chilean Flicker, and the exotic Rufous-tailed Plantcutter. We’ll also have our best chance here for the scarce Spectacled Duck. Night in El Calafate. 

Day 14: We’ll spend more time exploring the vast landscape for species we may have missed the previous day. We’ll be searching as well for Austral Canastero, Great and Black-bellied Shrike-Tyrants, Cinnamon-bellied Ground Tyrant and possibly Gray-belled Seedsnipe. In the afternoon we’ll return to El Calafate for our flight back to Buenos Aires. Depending on the flight schedule we may end up back in the capital with enough time for some local birding. Night in Buenos Aires. 

Day 15: We’ll spend the morning visiting one of the productive riverside reserves north of Buenos Aires where we’ll search for Gilded Hummingbird, Checkered Woodpecker, Rufous-sided Crake, Spix’s Spinetail, Diademed Tanager and Solitary Cacique as well as renewing our acquaintance with other Pampas birds we have seen earlier in our trip. The tour concludes this afternoon in Buenos Aires with transfer to EZE for international departures.   

2026 Narrative

In Brief: Argentina boasts the largest variety of habitats of any country in South America, and we did a fantastic job covering as much of four of them as possible. The extensive pampas grasslands and marshes were overflowing with ducks and shorebirds seeking shelter in this land abundant with resources. Highlights here included the regional specialty Olrog’s Gull, showy Many-colored Rush-Tyrants, and Greater Rheas…the largest bird on the continent. The monte desert around Puerto Madryn awarded us extended views of the near-endemic Band-tailed Earthcreeper, as well as a flock of Burrowing Parakeets flying to and from the limestone walls they call home. On the shores of the massive Valdez Peninsula, Southern Sea Lions were giving birth and Southern Giant Petrels were taking advantage of the ephemeral food source provided by this amazing event. Walking through a colony of 130,000 nesting Magellanic Penguins was a once in a lifetime experience we all thoroughly loved. The Perito Moreno Glacier in Calafate thundered as active calving of massive ice chunks was experienced. Here a group of Andean Condors gliding low in the wind was a great way to start a day, and Austral Parakeets perched atop dead Nothofagus trees with the snow-capped Andes behind them won’t be soon forgotten. A Magellanic Plover dropping in at our feet along the shore of Lago Argentino is another experience we’ll remember forever. Our boat trip from Ushuaia down the Beagle Channel took us by nesting colonies of thousands of Imperial Cormorants and up close to passing Black-browed Albatross. Having five Snowy Sheathbills land on our boat close enough for selfies was amazing too. Watching a highly sought after male Magellanic Woodpecker utilizing ancient southern Beech Trees was also a major highlight. In all, we encountered 275 species on an unforgettable trip through the southern cone of South America. 

In Detail:  After our intro meeting, we headed down to the bustling riverside experience that is Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve. Immediately upon exiting the taxis we had a Variable Oriole directly overhead with burnt orange shoulders being the only color on the otherwise stark black bird. We experienced our first meal of typical Argentinian fare; hamburguesas, grilled chicken, and choripan. We were joined by some of the common southern cone species including Grayish Baywing, Shiny Cowbird, Rufous Hornero, Rufous-bellied Thrush, and Chalk-browed Mockingbird. A Green-barred Woodpecker fed in the grass, coming quite close allowing us to get within ten feet. Monk Parakeets were screeching overhead the entire time, at some points landing within a few feet of the group. Picazuro Pigeons outweighed most of the birds we saw and were seemingly everywhere. A Narrow-billed Woodcreeper was feeding next to the sandwich shop slowly creeping up the vine-laden bark of a towering tree. We watched a Brown-chested Martin perched next to a Hornero nest, showing how many species themselves use these old mud nests that are all over the range of this ovenbird. Red-crested Cardinals gave a good show with bright red heads and crests.  

We strolled to the preserve and immediately started seeing waterbirds like Silver Teal, Common Gallinules, and many loafing Limpkin. Lots of Rosy-billed Pochards were nice to see, many with small young following along. Sitting still on the edge of the pond was a juvenile Rufescent Tiger-Herons in wait of unsuspecting prey. Other waders showed well including both Great and Snowy Egrets. A pair of Southern Lapwings tiptoed over the marsh vegetation with a very young chick trying to keep up. Nearby a Wattled Jacana’s bright rusty back glowed in the sun. As it picked its way through the algae mat, a miniature version fluffball young was feeding close by. A Southern House Wren popped into view and began belting out its familiar song. In an open area we observed several raptors utilizing the increasing wind like dark-headed Roadside Hawk and bay-winged Harris’s. Great Kiskadees were perched on several of the emergent snags, repeatedly dropping to the surface of the marsh to catch prey. In the understory a pair of Sooty-fronted Spinetails eventually emerged, constantly singing their ‘whit weet’ song. We heard a Black-and-rufous Warbling Finch in full song for several minutes, that was somehow eventually spotted in the dense understory.  

Also here in the trees, a pair of Streaked Flycatchers was working the mid-story of the forest. We overlooked a vast marsh where several Cocoi Herons loomed over the water patiently awaiting fish. Both White-faced and Fulvous Whistling ducks preened in the afternoon sun. While watching these a duck popped up out of the water lettuce field that turned out to be a dapper male Masked Duck. As we watched, a couple more males and single female also popped up showing how well these birds are able to blend in with the marsh environment. While strolling under the towering trees a bird caught our eye – it was a male White-winged Becard feeding in the upper canopy. After snatching prey, it quickly flew to a tree across the path to what we thought might be a nest location. We inspected the tree and found out that the hanging ball nest was placed a few inches from a paper wasp nest of similar size. It was great to see this natural history event comprised of the birds using the insects for protection of their nest. 

Further down the trail we ran into a nice mixed flock including Short-billed Elaenia, Masked Gnatcatcher, and a male Southern Yellowthroat that came in to sing right in front of us mere feet away. While observing one of the Elaenias feeding our eyes were drawn to a brown flycatcher sitting on a nest. The Bran-colored Flycatcher sat with bill and tail being the only parts visible but eventually left the nest for some fast foraging before heading back to continue incubation. Deeper into the park we watched a pair of Hooded Siskins bringing in the wispy tops of pampas grass to build their own nest. Some tapping drew our attention to a Checkered Woodpecker working its way through the midstory. A Golden-billed Saltator landed overhead and began to attack a caterpillar. Upon closer inspection we saw white sacks all over the insect and realized these were likely wasp eggs yet to be hatch that would later eat the host insect while still alive. Along the boardwalk a Green-winged Saltator was coaxed in and we watched from above as a family group of Gray-cowled Woodrails worked their way through the marsh. 

The next day after breakfast we loaded up and headed east to make our way to San Clemente del Tuyu at the Atlantic Coast. En route we stopped occasionally as new birds kept popping up. At one stop, a group of Southern Screamers rested on the edge of a small pond, and a pair of Brazilian Teal tried to blend in with the edge of the marsh. Stately Maguari Storks dwarfed the surrounding wildlife. Gorgeous Whistling Herons crept through the vegetation seeking various prey items. A group of White-faced Ibis probed along the muddy edge. A single Bare-faced Ibis stood out with its pale bill and featherless face. A family of Guira Cuckoos perched in the subcanopy of the low trees across the road. These giant birds are reminiscent of Hoatzins in looks, and not very shy. Fork-tailed Flycatchers were in constant supply along the roadsides with long flowing black streamers for tails. 

Nearing Punta Piedras, we stretched our legs along a dusty two-track. A bird briefly dropped into the reeds to grab a drink. This Dark-billed Cuckoo didn’t stay long and quickly shot back into the trees nearby. The striking male Vermilion Flycatcher hung on while the winds of the Atlantic swept by. A mass of sticks in a tree revealed its occupant to be a Freckle-breasted Thornbird, or so we thought. While observing these, we also heard a grumbling call that turned out to be a Chotoy Spinetail vocalizing nearby. A pair of these birds made their way to the Thornbird nest and appeared to go inside. Upon closer inspection we saw finer sticks arranged into a tube heading into the mass. It became obvious these much smaller birds were utilizing an old Thornbird nest to their advantage. One of the birds sat a long time just under the nest preening unbothered by our presence. At a bridge we watched a pair of adult Sooty Tyrannulets feed a recently fledged young. A mechanical song was blurted out by a male Double-collared Seedeater. This songster was chasing around a female as she crossed the road repeatedly. After this we continued east to one of the tidal rivers where we had our first traditional lunch in Argentina: empanadas with various fillings! (Every region claims to have the best empanada, so we looked forward to judging for ourselves.) 

Continuing along we stopped at a canal bordered by an extensive marsh. Scads of Black-necked Swans were floating in pairs with recently fledged young in tow. Other waterbirds we spotted included both Red-fronted and Reg-gartered Coot swith young close by. Several White-tufted Grebes were showing off their pale head sides. We enjoyed comparing the Common Gallinules with their Spot-flanked cousins, each tending to needy juveniles. A Sulphur-bearded Reedhaunter eventually posed showing its orange throat dot. Working the bullrushes was a Wren-like Rushbird, slowly picking its way through the vegetation just above the water. This is similarly patterned to our Marsh Wren from North America and fills a similar niche here. A big joy was getting great looks at a male Many-colored Rush Tyrant. This bird is a stunner with colors including yellow, red, blue, and white. A tiny flycatcher was spotted that turned out to be a Warbling Doradito, so cute with its subtle yellow plumage and mouse-like demeanor. We were excited to see the largest bird in South America stroll by when a male Greater Rhea slowly sauntered through the grasslands in the distance. Both light and dark-morph Long-winged Harriers flew right over our heads allowing great looks at these large, elegant raptors. A Snail Kite worked low over the marsh, and a family of Gray-breasted Martins congregated on the abutment of the bridge. 

Before getting to the hotel, we stopped by a park with lots of big ornamental trees and flowering bushes being well watered. Our main target here was White-throated Hummingbird which we saw well. It was feeding on pink flowers and chasing other hummingbirds like a racecar driver, somehow avoiding all the possible obstructions. Occasionally it would sit high up in the tree singing out its unique song. We also inspected male and female Glittering-bellied Emeralds coming in for drinks at the leaky water features. A complete surprise here was a male European Goldfinch in full song. It’s not very often Mario gets a lifer on the trip! A dinner of local flat fish was enjoyed by all as well as some delicious malbec that this country is famous for. 

In the early rays of the next day the light couldn’t be better for watching birds in the port. Hundreds of White-rumped Sandpipers foraged in the mud alongside numerous Hudsonian Godwits. Both of these birds traveled an extremely long way from their arctic breeding grounds to come to the fertile tidal estuary laid out before us. Nearly as abundant were Lesser Yellowlegs which towered over the nearby sandpipers with long bright yellow legs and lightly dotted backs. These shorebirds sat tall, but paled in comparison to the long-legged Black-necked Stilts foraging nearby. A single Spotted Sandpiper bobbed along, and a couple pairs of American Oystercatchers flew by in unison, tooting along as they went. Huge Maguari Storks sat shoulder to shoulder with the slightly smaller Wood Storks. These birds made the normally sizeable Cocoi Heron look small in comparison. Another large wader just waking up and feeding were tall Chilean Flamingos sweeping their upside-down heads from side to side sifting the mud through their beaks. The dilapidated boats had seen better days but provided a rustic scene in the morning light. Large dark-backed Kelp Gulls stood in small groups interspersed with more common and much smaller Brown-hooded Gulls of several plumages. A few Gray-hooded Gulls were eventually picked out of the mix, and one showed its lighter hood and pale eyes nicely in comparison to its darker-headed cousins. After breakfast we headed out to Punta Rasa, a preserve protecting pristine coastal tidal marsh with salt and pampas grasses interspersed amongst the winding tidal rivulets. 

A walk along the road here produced a cute Long-tailed Reed Finch perched on a feathery stalk emerging from the bunch grass. Up the road we heard a thrush-like song reminiscent of American Robins from back home, so we weren’t surprised it was coming from a male Creamy-bellied Thrush perched up nicely. A small flock here harbored a male Masked Gnatcatcher with pitch black coloration on the face, as well as a spikey-topped Tufted Tit-Spinetail that sat at-length for an extended preening session. At Termas Marinas we scoped a perched Gilded Hummingbird that entertained us with its insect-like song. A small flock here also produced a curious Chivi Vireo, as well as gorgeous male Tropical Parula that came down right over our heads. 

Outside town we visited a private estancia giving us a chance to take our time away from busy roads to enjoy the wet grasslands in solitude. On the way, Mario spotted a major highlight of the tour when all of a sudden, the bus came to an abrupt halt. A male Scarlet-headed Blackbird was perched up perfectly allowing close approach and photos galore. At the estancia, we quickly found a family group of Burrowing Owls right IN the road. We watched them hover-hunting and trying their best to blend into the few shrubs present. Displaying Correndera Pipits were singing their song while flying up high and slowly falling to the ground with wings raised. A Campo Flicker flew in and perched on a roadside post, and several Brown-and-yellow Marshbirds allowed close inspection as they landed next to the van. Shorebirds were plentiful with American Golden-Plovers, White-rumped Sandpipers, and Southern Lapwings being the most common. Our only Pectoral and Stilt Sandpipers of the trip gave us a good show here. Another major highlight was getting up close and personal with several Buff-breasted Sandpipers as they slowly picked their way across the short grass fields. Southern Screamers yelled out their namesakes loudly, probably in protest to our presence because of their small young close by. At the end of the day, we made our way out to the vast mud flats near Punta Rasa and hit the low tide perfectly. A major target here was Olrog’s Gull, of which we found nearly 70 that came in to roost together on the beach. Terns were also plentiful with the large Royal Terns for a size comparison with the numerous ghostly Snowy-crowned Terns, as well as nearly 1,000 Common Terns which have a good-sized wintering population in the area. Black Skimmers were coming in small groups to join the mass congregating for the night roost. Shorebirds were running all over the place in the receding tide waters. A group of Ruddy Turnstones picked through the mud, and over a dozen Two-banded Plovers ran in short bursts across the sand. Eagle eyes picked out a smaller version of plover when a couple Semipalmated came in to join the party. It was glorious watching the sun setting over the Atlantic while soaking in the show of so many birds calling it a day. 

The next morning, we headed back out to Punta Rasa where the small spike-tailed furnariid Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail was our main target. This tiny bird showed extremely well as it repeatedly emerged from the short spartina grass it is closely tied to. A few soft chips coming from the marsh caught our attention. It was being emitted by the large Great Pampa-Finch that flew in to perch atop a tuft of Pampas Grass. This gorgeous finch shone in the sun with bright orange bill and olivine wings. A chatting Grass Wren sang its heart out, somehow hanging on to a grass sprig in the windy environment. He ended up shooting around the grass clumps in hot pursuit of a receptive female. The rains began, so we headed back to the hotel for a nice hot breakfast. 

On the way back to Buenos Aires, we took a walk down a dusty two-track on the outskirts of town that had multiple Bearded Tachuris. Some were working on their repertoire while singing their unique songs as they shot between thistle clumps. Many White-browed Meadowlarks were singing and displaying, as well as scores of Grassland Yellow-Finches. A male Black-and-rufous Warbling Finch also showed well, as did a Firewood Gatherer that eventually revealed itself on a wooden post. It was hard to tear ourselves away from the amazing pampas habitat, but we had to head back to the airport to catch a flight for the next leg of our southern Argentina adventure.  

Next on the agenda was flying to Puerto Madryn and exploring the famed Peninsula Valdez. As the light was revealing the hills surrounding Puerto Piramides, we took a stroll from the hotel. Quickly the staccato trill of the endemic Patagonia Canastero bounced down the valley. It came quite close, keeping its dark tail cocked on its otherwise grayish body. A large flycatcher came in to check out the situation that turned out to be a Gray-bellied Shrike-Tyrant. Quickly it dropped to the ground and scurried off by foot out of view. A new mockingbird species called from the slopes that turned out to be of the Patagonian variety. A smaller flycatcher was actively hunting prey and heading up and over the nearby hill repeatedly. We strolled out a well-worn path through the spiky habitat and caught up with this Lesser Shrike-Tyrant undoubtedly tending to some young in a nearby nest. After breakfast we started our journey around the vast Valdez Peninsula. This feature juts out into the Atlantic Ocean, connected by a thin piece of land to the rest of the continent. Within minutes we started seeing our first Elegant Crested-Tinamous right along the roadsides. This particular species of tinamou is perhaps the easiest bird in this family to see in the world. Right next to the road a pair of recently fledged Variable Hawks were taking refuge from the winds along the earthen berm. These huge buteos are adept hunters of the region, mainly focusing on small mammals. Soon after, Mario shouted stop, which is always a good thing: a couple Rusty-backed Monjitas sat atop some shrubs roadside, a breeding endemic to Argentina. These were young birds, not as bright as the rusty adults but displayed distinct throat streaking needed to seal the ID. Occasionally a Diuca Finch would flush from the roadside and conveniently perch at eye level for us to take in their subtle features. Fresh water is a hot commodity in this region. As we were scoping one of the green anomalies, we spotted our first Austral Negritos of the trip. A pitch-black male shot around in short bursts chasing insects, with its red back visible the whole time. Lots of pipits were foraging in the short grass. In addition to the Correndera we’d seen previously, we picked up a Short-billed Pipit that came within a few feet of us. A large falcon was spotted overhead that turned out to be the fastest bird on the continent, an adult Peregrine. We spotted a female Long-tailed Meadowlark, reminiscent of meadowlarks back home, but unique with her tail extension. 

We then drove east, out to Caleta Valdez, passing large salt flats that are still being used for salting tinned fish. Young Southern Elephant Seals were hauled out on the beach, extremely large for their age, especially only having been birthed several months earlier. A pair of American Oystercatchers tried to blend in with the sandy beach. Several Southern Giant-Petrels shot by at eye level, close enough to detect that the tips of their bills were green, confirming their species. We had a cormorant trio that was studied well, with Neotropic, Imperial, and Magellanic all sitting next to each other just outside the surf. At a small fresh water feature by the buildings several Mourning Sierra Finches were coming in to drink, as well as the minute and cute Southern Mountain Cavy taking its fill. At Punta Norte it didn’t take long for someone to spot a major highlight…there was an all-white bird walking amongst the Southern Sea Lion colony. This Snowy Sheathbill was so nonchalant as it strolled slowly between the giant mammals hoping for some leftover afterbirth remaining from the ravenous Kelp Gulls that did a good job of getting rid of the evidence. The gull’s bills turned red as they hastily jumped on the placentas being produced before our very eyes. A couple Sharp-billed Canasteros worked through the densest shrubs, revealing their presence by cute call notes. This version of Canastero has a long tail that it drags behind it as it forages through the desert landscape. On the way out we were given a memorable goodbye from a Hairy Armadillo that had obviously grown accustomed to the human traffic, coming up to sniff some people’s shoes in the parking lot. 

Our last stop was Punta Piramides which harbors a large colony of Southern Sea Lions. At least 10 Snowy Sheathbills picked through the breathing piles of fur for morsels, and young Southern Giant-Petrels were beginning to tuck their heads in for the day amongst the sea cliffs. Very attractive Dolphin Gulls made their way through the mass of mammals, some taking baths in the water pools amongst the lava rocks. Some were in breeding plumage with sleek gray heads that matched their bodies, others in non-breeding garb with dark hoods. All three species of Cormorants took breaks resting on the exposed sea walls, including some Magellanic in pristine breeding plumage. High pitched whistling calls revealed a few Blackish Oystercatchers blending in nicely with the dark rocky coastline. The all yellow-billed version of Sandwich Tern termed ‘Cayenne’ were picked out of the more common Royal Terns. After circumnavigating the entire peninsula, we decided to call it a day and watch the sun set while having dinner from our quaint hotel overlooking the vast Golfo Nuevo. 

The next morning, we rose with the sun and took a stroll first thing, connecting again with the endemic breeder Lesser Shrike-Tyrant that was working the same hillside as the previous morning. Our first Chiguanco Thrushes of the trip were perched on a chimney nearby. The darker male stood out from the more grayish female. In the horse pasture birds were rooting through the remains of the ungulate dung. Long-tailed Meadowlarks sifted through the dander and Mourning Sierra Finches of all ages and sexes joined the party. We stopped our jaunt when a Tufted Tit-Tyrant was seen sitting on the tip of a branch. This darling of a flycatcher sported its suave crest feathers with gusto, and gave us time to note its pale eye, all dark bill, and belly streaking nicely before joining its mate and disappearing into the scrub. Mario then spotted a Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail working its way through the shrubs. It was joined by another and while they were interacting, a pitch-black bird with white wing patches landed right in front of us. The aptly named White-winged Black-Tyrant sat long enough for scope views. After breakfast we began our journey back to Puerto Madryn to explore the monte desert in its surrounds. On our way back we stopped quickly to see if we could get another target bird for the list. It didn’t take long for a Band-tailed Earthcreeper to pop up onto a roadside fence post, in view running around as well as perched for a welcomed long time. 

A large reservoir just outside of town was bustling with waterfowl. Amongst the hundreds of Red Shovelers, lesser numbers of Yellow-billed Pintail and Teal swam together. Dozens of male Lake Ducks were displaying to females in pairs. Over 100 Chilean Flamingos showed as pink clumps here and there. It was a treat to see them fly by with long necks and equally long legs trailing behind. A couple White-tufted Grebes were picked out of the more common Patagonian Silvery Grebes that dotted the surface. A group of 15 Wilson’s Phalaropes were preening along the shoreline amongst the nearly 100 Southern Lapwings. Some other exciting birds located in the scrub around here included the endemic White-throated Cacholote family coming in for close inspection, extremely inquisitive pair of Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrants, and assertive Greater Wagtail-Tyrant poised and ready to go. 

After this we had a lovely picnic lunch overlooking the city of Puerto Madryn. We did some loops around town and environs to look for Burrowing Parakeets but could not turn any up. We made our way down to Trelew further south and checked out their Ornithological Lagoons. Just after hitting the dirt road a flock of over 100 Chimango Caracaras flushed from the roadside, feeding from waste people neglectfully tossed out for others to clean up. Flooded fields lined both sides of the roads. Our first Black-faced Ibis were encountered probing in the mud and perching in the road in front of the van. We loved how unique these particular ibis were, adorned with rusty necks and frosty wings, not to mention their large size. We tracked down a small flycatcher working its way through the salt cedar rows and eventually got brief but good looks at a Straneck’s Tyrannulet. This species is also tied to the monte desert that predominates this particular region. Scads of waterfowl were picked through including even more Rosy-billed Pochards, Red Shovelers, and Lake Ducks. Sitting by itself on a log was a White-cheeked Pintail, the only one of the trip. Also new here were a dozen or so Chiloe Wigeon, screeching out their rising calls reminiscent of the American Wigeon from back home. 

The next day we headed south a couple hours to Punta Tombo, a Magellanic Penguin colony on the Patagonian Coast boasting 130,000 nesting pairs of these otherwise pelagic birds. En route we enjoyed watching an Aplomado Falcon in the scope while it sat on a roadside perch in the first rays of the day. A flock of birds flitting in the bushes while doing so were several Diuca Finches with the easiest scientific name to remember (Diuca diuca). At Punta Tombo we were immediately met with some birds coming in to bathe in a puddle created by a leaky pipe. Fresh water is scarce here so there was quite a party forming. A Scale-throated Earthcreeper was the dirtiest of them all and became soaked while flicking its wings repeatedly. A male Gray-hooded Sierra Finch also joined the bathing party, as did an Elegant Crested-Tinamou dwarfing the other birds enjoying the location. We began our hike by hearing sneezing bushes with family groups of Magellanic Penguins resting underneath. The chicks were quite large at this stage mostly resembling the adults but clearly were inexperienced in most aspects as they fumbled around clumsily navigating the immediate surrounds. Some of these adult birds have to walk up to three kilometers inland after feeding for 24 hours to bring the awaiting begging young fresh fish to consume. As we approached the sea, some of us watched a Patagonian Yellow-Finch take time to perch on the ranger’s hut. Just downhill was a gorgeous male Southern Martin perfectly perched on a snag at eye level. At the end of the trail humongous Southern Giant-Petrels were cruising up and down the beach, sometimes at eye level. A couple family groups of the endemic White-headed Steamer-Ducks were spotted loafing on the beach. We watched one pair close by foraging for crabs that they brought to the surface and happily consumed. On the way back to Trelew we made a surprise stop at another roadside attraction. A Lesser Horned Owl nest with chick and adult were admired, as they stood on the ground, seemingly easy to be picked off by any opportunistic predator. In the late afternoon we explored the fertile Chubut River Valley and its farmlands replete with birds. A quick stop produced our first cotinga of the trip when a dapper male White-tipped Plantcutter jumped up into an elm tree, panting in the heat of the day. Just down the road a covey of introduced California Quail ran across the road. Further upriver we stopped in the town of Gaiman, a unique Welsh town settled in the late 1800’s. It didn’t take long for us to find some West Peruvian Doves initially given away by their cooing calls. This species has expanded its range from Chile far to the west, following the Chubut River valley east to the Atlantic Ocean over the last few years. To end our day, we searched several areas and eventually found a big target for the trip when the bus came to a screeching halt after Mario called out “PARROTS!”. A group of Burrowing Parakeets were flying around in pairs just overhead. Mario’s Macaws, as Mario likes to call them, nest in the limestone cliffs in the area and move around in groups like this in the post-breeding season. These birds are extremely colorful and we noted how they have the same colors and one of our other favorite birds of the trip, the Many-colored Rush Tyrant. On the way back to our hotel a single Black Vulture was spotted, this getting towards the southern-most part of its range in Argentina. 

The next morning, we flew from Trelew to El Calafate, situated on the southern shores of the stunning turquoise waters of Lago Argentino. Our first birding outing was a memorable experience. We trekked out along the lake’s sandy shores in the warmth of the afternoon. Austral Negritos were flushing from our feet, picking insects off the foamy shoreline. Small flocks of Baird’s Sandpipers also allowed close approach and inspection of their subtle brown tones. A family of Flying Steamer-Ducks was spotted sitting on the shore, with small chicks initially tucked under the wings of the resting mother. The light was perfect for photos as we got close to families of Crested Ducks, White-winged Coots, and Upland Geese. Lots of ducks were resting in the ponds of the reserve including Chiloe Wigeon, Red Shoveler, and both Yellow-billed Teal and Pintail. We took time to get close looks at both Lake and Andean Ducks. The males look nearly identical, but the females are markedly different. We noted the dark faces of the female Andean Ducks compared to the striped faces of Lake. While doing this we were serenaded by displaying Correndera Pipits as they shot up high and came floating back down in full song. With the help of a pack of local dogs who insisted on joining us for our walk, we made it to a sandy island where we spotted a huge score for everyone; a Magellanic Plover was working the edge, scratching the ground while spinning in circles making us wonder if it was perhaps constructing a nest scrape. The views we had were distant, however we decided to take the looks we had and head back to the van. After a few minutes, much to our delight, a Magellanic Plover came out of nowhere and landed right at our feet. We couldn’t have been closer, being able to study the fire-red iris and bubblegum pink legs at close-range. This odd shorebird is highly sought after, being the only member in its family Pluvianellidae. We took time to enjoy another classic Argentinian lunch of empanadas and tartas. The competition of which town had the best empanadas was continuing, with unique versions here stuffed with local lamb. 

Afterwards, we decided to head up into the canyons of the steppe to see if we could find another area to explore. On the road up into the hills we spotted several family groups of Least Seedsnipe, some with tiny young in tow. The males were easy to identify with their black neckties across their otherwise gray breasts. In some of the roadside shrubs we spotted our second (and last) cotinga of the tour. A male Rufous-tailed Plantcutter sat up high and was joined by a female and a couple adult-sized young. We parked at a ski chalet that had a particularly friendly cat that many of us would have taken home in a second. The bus quickly turned into a shady refuge for a pair of Cordilleran Canasteros that shot back and forth from the tires, picking off bugs from the tread. While watching those, a streaky version of a Canastero landed in a nearby shrub and turned out to be of the Austral variety. We were excited to have such luck with these birds that are at times hard to get a good look at. On the opposite hillside a flycatcher was working up and down the rocky slope. It was a Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant with rusty belly and cap seen well in the scope. While taking in the scene, a huge raptor came shooting down from out of nowhere. This adult Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle used the wind to head back up high in the sky and kite perfectly still while surveying the land far below for any prey making themselves visible. We heard the distinctive call of Rufous-banded Miners coming from high up the slope. Eventually the pair came in quite close for inspection, preferring to perch on the only building around. We hiked up the valley and ran into a couple Buff-winged Cinclodes foraging for prey. The adult birds repeatedly flew up to a particular area in a rockslide that turned out to be its nest site. While watching this, a dark bird dropped into the stream close by that was a Plumbeous Sierra Finch, likely a young male with its streaked plumage. We decided to call it a day, check into our hotel, and head to a nearby parrilla for our chance at sampling a roasted lamb that had been slowly cooked all day for the best result we could have hoped for. 

The next day after our tasty breakfast we headed west towards the southern beech forest in the distance. Soon after leaving town a roadside scene turned into one of the major highlights of the tour when an adult Andean Condor was spotted on the horizon. So we made our way over to the spot and as we got closer, we realized there were many condors, most of which were coming in to feed on the edge of a small lagoon. We enjoyed watching them wheel in circles right in front of us, flashing their silvery wings in the sun when banking at just the right angle. Not to be distracted, we took time to coax out a Plumbeous Rail from the nearby marsh that shot across our path with a flash. When we started seeing trees we stopped and had a great flock of birds representative of this forest ecosystem. Our first Fire-eyed Diucons perched nicely at eye level sporting bright red eyes and sleek gray plumage. White-crested Elaenias started to emerge from the trees, perching high up on snags with the bleached white stripes down the top of their heads flared up with curiosity. Austral Thrushes also joined the show, donning dark black caps and speckly bellies. A curious Chilean Flicker came in to perch on a snag and was eventually joined by the rest of its family working the standing dead trees. A pair of Austral Parakeets also came in to check us out. These gorgeous birds sat for a while, showing off their blue wings and red tail at length. As if this spot could get any better, an ‘all black bird’ was called out that turned out to be an Austral Blackbird. Not just one of these regional icterids was present, but an entire flock that came in close to shout out their scratchy songs and calls to our overjoyed group. 

Our day was mostly geared toward exploring the amazing Los Glaciares National Park which protects just over 2,800 square miles of land – the largest National Park in Argentina. Soon after entering we stopped at an area where a Crested Caracara family slowly walked through the picnic zone looking for tidbits dropped by sloppy tourists. As the road wound around corners, it eventually started to reveal the main attraction here as the massive Perito Moreno Glacier came into view. At an overlook we took our first of many photos of this icy massif and noticed eight Spectacled Ducks way down on the lakeshore blending in perfectly with the rocky shoreline. We took a nice stroll along the shore of the lake taking in the beautiful scenery surrounding us. A pair of Ashy-headed Geese blended in with the orange lichen-laden rocks and were standing guard of some small chicks foraging close by. Along the elevated pathway we lucked into pretty good views of a mouse-like Magellanic Tapaculo that ran back and forth through the dense vegetation under our feet. We headed to the top of the hill to take in the gleaming view of the ice river that was laid out before us. After taking countless pictures we gathered up to head back to check one more spot before leaving the park. We were able to track down a minute Austral Pygmy-Owl that was eventually exposed by the upset Chilean Swallows coming in to swarm it. After that it was back to Calafate to enjoy another delicious dinner while watching the sun set over the southern Andean range. 

The next morning, we headed east out of town into the wind-swept bunch grass plains of the Patagonian steppe. Shortly before turning along National Route 40 Mario spotted a huge target for the day. A Chocolate-vented Tyrant was sitting on top of a roadside post. We got out and watched this bird forage for quite some time and even heard it giving bursts of song. It was interesting to note how the song, behavior, and color scheme of this bird was like the Say’s Phoebe, a familiar bird back in the USA. During the afternoon we drove many miles along Route 40, one of the most famous roads in South America which stretches over 5000 kilometers running along the base of the Andean Range. We took some side roads in search of the wildlife that call this seemingly desolate land home. We checked out a bumpy one running along the northern shore of Lago Argentino with several green wet areas full of Upland Geese. Along a rocky hillside we took time to get great looks at a Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant, admiring how such a small non-descript flycatcher could make an existence in this landscape. We watched as it came in to check out another Austral Pygmy Owl we’d found along with some others including Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetails and both Mourning and Gray-hooded Sierra Finches. We spotted a raptor working the shoreline that turned out to be a male Cinereous Harrier, similar in plumage to the Northern Harriers from back home. After being on the hunt for dotterels all day and not running into any we decided to call it a day as the light was fading. We’ll always remember today was when we learned what people meant when asking us if we’d experienced “that Patagonia wind” yet! 

The next day we decided to hit the dirt roads once again for a change in scenery. As we drove, Long-tailed Meadowlarks and flocks of Patagonian Rufous-collared Sparrows flushed from the road edges. We walked for a bit down a side road and quickly lucked into a pair of Short-billed Miners. They gave a good inspection of their drab plumages lacking streaks, and short bills the species was named for. Right after leaving this interaction, we strolled some more and found a different pair of miners. This time Common Miners were foraging in the same method as the last two, spending much time walking across the ground. These miners had dark streaks and a much longer bill than what we’d previously seen. It was nice to see these new species in quick succession and work on the finer details of furnariid identification. Back on the bus heading west we all of a sudden came to a halt when a large pale bird was sitting on a roadside post. Much to our amazement an adult White-throated Caracara was within 20 feet of the van. This gorgeous bird has never been seen so well on this tour. Most exciting was that we normally only see this species at the Ushuaia dump. We were all happy that our lifer caracara wasn’t first detected sitting on mounds of trash. A few posts down an American Kestrel was devouring a small lizard that was already missing its head. Yet another Austral Pygmy-Owl came out of the shrubs, sitting out in the open tooting for over 20 minutes as we admired this bold individual. It was interesting this bird was here in a very open habitat without any trees but just goes to show how well adapted this bird is for hunting in all the Patagonian habitats. We had been watching a perched Gray-bellied Shrike-Tyrant nearby so weren’t surprised when a Shrike-Tyrant landed on the close hillside. This one turned out to be the much larger Great Shrike-Tyrant, perching high on a snag wondering what all the fuss was about. 

After this we went back into town to Laguna Nimez, a fantastic bird reserve on the edge of Lago Argentino, with nice walking paths and ponds full of ducks. Just after starting our walk a chatter came from the vegetation that turned out to be a Grass Wren. This subspecies sounds much different than the Pampas version of this species we had heard in San Clemente. We took more time to discuss what makes Andean and Lake Ducks visually different. We had perfect light for the task, and ended the walk being experts at the task. Here we had a coot trifecta included White-winged, Red-gartered and a single Red-fronted. On the edge of the reeds a Plumbeous Rail posed for photos, with its wing outstretched soaking in the sun. Chilean Swallows of all ages filled the skies, briefly alighting on some snags close to our eager cameras. A couple Cordilleran Pipits joined them in display flights, and Coscoroba Swans flew by in formation. It was hard to pull ourselves away from this productive region, but we had to catch a flight to Ushuaia on the banks of the Beagle Channel for another unique adventure. 

To say our hotel in Ushuaia is amazing is a complete understatement. Its location on a sandy spit jutting out into the Beagle Channel gives unique perspective. The fact it sits at the mouth of the Rio Pipo where fresh water enters the ocean is an excuse for many species of birds unique to this region to bathe in the clean cool water. Regularly occurring species here include Dolphin Gulls, Baird’s and White-rumped Sandpipers, and the occasional Southern Giant-Petrel shooting by. Several life birds were seen while enjoying dinner in the hotel’s restaurant. We had nice comparisons of both Flying and Flightless Steamer Ducks just outside the window. The first Magellanic Oystercatcher of the trip was memorably spotted just before dinner. 

The next morning we explored Tierra del Fuego National Park’s stunning snow-capped peaks and old-growth beech forest. Our main objective for the day was getting a look at the notable Magellanic Woodpecker so we began right away in our search. Around Ensenada Bay a pair of Flightless Steamer-Ducks were feeding close to shore. Some trails here got us great looks at Black-chinned Siskins and several rambunctious Thorn-tailed Rayaditos. We strolled along Rio Pipo’s icy waters and soaked in the white-topped mountains and ripe calafate bushes. Finally, along a seemingly random trail we heard the distinctive double knock of a woodpecker that rang through the forest like a drum. We quickly got to the spot and within no time one of the giants of the forest flew in right over our heads. Although we’d seen the Magellanic Woodpecker close, it flew deep into the forest behind us. With a bit of bushwhacking, we were in the presence of a male bird with bright crimson head working its way up a giant snag. We relished in this experience.  

Another bird we got nearby was the nuthatch-like White-throated Treerunner, a unique furnariid haunting these southern beech forests. It was great to finally track down these two species that we’d been on the lookout for all morning. At lunch we met George, the friendliest Southern Caracara in the world as he greeted us at the campground. During our picnic a male Patagonia Sierra Finch and family kept in close company, clearly used to people giving handouts at this scenic location. We strolled through the area and spotted a Ringed Kingfisher that came in with a flash. It spent time moving from snag to snag unbothered by our presence. This Patagonian subspecies of the kingfisher has a smaller bill than the ones in the northern part of the range, as well as deeper rich blue upperparts. As we rounded the bend, a silent pair of Flying Steamer-Ducks pushed off the shore and slowly made their way across Laguna Verde making several seemingly unsuccessful dives for unknown prey.  Halfway up the closest hillside an adult Black-chested Buzzard Eagle perched motionless for what seemed like forever, slowly surveying the land for any potential prey. Other birds noticed as evident from the agitated behavior of a few birds. An Austral Pygmy Owl started tooting and in response we encountered a mobbing flock of birds. Several species perched on the snags before us at eye level to come check out the scene including Austral Thrush, Tufted Tit-tyrant, White-crested Elaenia, Patagonian Sierra Finch and Black-chinned Siskin. At the end of the trail we were greeted by a pair of Crested Ducks that blended in perfectly with the algae covered rocks as they performed a synchronized wing-stretch together. 

Out towards the channel we spotted some distant Black-browed Albatross wheeling by in the windy conditions. Lastly we took a stroll along Lago Roca, a gorgeous lake that’s shared with Chile. A pair of Black-necked Swans were building a nest. One adult was collecting vegetation and placing it on its back to bring over to the other adult resting on the floating mass being constructed. After calling it a day at the park we headed back to our hotel where Terence spotted some Rufous-chested Dotterels on the beach just outside. We made a sweep through the hotel to let everyone know. Most got to see them, but not all as they were flushed by a rambunctious child eager to run on the beach. This species is only seen about half the tours, and typically only in the remote northern parts of the island or above treeline so we were ecstatic to have them conveniently at our lodge. 

Just before breakfast the next morning we took a quick look at the beach outside the hotel to see if any dotterels came back. Luckily, two juvenile birds decided to drop in nearly unnoticed and all of us got as a great a look as we could hope for. This morning we headed to the harbor to get on our boat and embark on our voyage down the scenic Beagle Channel. The trip was epic, not only because the water was flat calm, but because new birds were constantly added amongst the backdrop of wind-swept mountains for which the area got its name. Numerous Black-browed Albatross floated by along with flocks of Chilean Skuas, and nesting colonies of Magellanic and Imperial Cormorants numbered into the thousands. A recent colonizer to the islands here is the Blackish Cinclodes that we saw very well as it foraged amongst the cormorant colonies snatching up morsels to bring to a likely nest in a rock crevice. Hunkering down along the rocky shorelines were several pairs of Kelp Goose. The stark white males were easy to pick out, but the cryptically colored females could only be spotted from their bright bills amongst the gray rocks they blended in with perfectly. Near one island we were shocked to see a group of five Snowy Sheathbills suddenly appear right on top of the boat, allowing ample opportunities for selfies with this highly sought-after species! We thought maybe they landed on board to see if the captain would give them some of the fresh water from the windshield wipers, a habit several of the birds around here have learned. As the boat meandered in and out of Chilean waters we were able to tick a few species for our Chile lists while we were at it. The penguin colony at the end of the line was filled with not only thousands of Magellanic Penguins, but a bunch of Gentoo as well. It was fun to watch the penguin sweep their wings back and awkwardly run down to the beach penguin style. It seemed like they would fall over at any point, however once they hit the water they turned into ballerinas as they gracefully flapped a few times and shot out to the deeper areas to hunt. After getting back to the dock, we all avoided the rain that had just started and jumped into the awaiting van. We headed out towards Tolhuin where our next adventure awaited us the next day. On the way, we stopped at Garibaldi Pass in the rain and were able to coax a pair of Dark-faced Ground-Tyrants into view before becoming too completely soaked. After checking into our hotel, we took a stroll along a nearby marsh and spotted a Magellanic Snipe blending in expertly with the downed brown vegetation. We stared intently, but could not seem to find any differences between this species and our Wilson’s Snipe from back home. As the wind picked up, temperature dropped, and rain began we decided to head back to our warm abode. There were a couple of Argentine Gray Foxes in the parking lot awaiting our return. They were awfully cute as they tumbled around the wet grass together, at one point causing a local dog to have a barking fit. It rained all night but didn’t dampen our spirits for what we had planned tomorrow. 

We had a long day on the horizon, with a hike into the mountains scheduled as the main event. We drove an hour through the pouring rain to a random parking spot up in the moss-laden Nothofagus forest outside of town. We trekked for the next hour through the continuing precipitation, through wet undergrowth, crossing several small streams along the way. As we gained elevation the trees got shorter and soon we were above treeline, right where we needed to be for another group of birds. The habitat looked amazing with endless cushion plants and bunch grasses laid out before us. Instantly we began seeing small flocks of Yellow-bridled Finches moving in groups through the grass. At our first boggy area a pair of Rufous-chested Dotterels were slowly feeding across the landscape, allowing quite close approach at times. Later on we’d see some very small chicks rushing to keep up with the adults. We all spread out and slowly walked up the mountain side hoping to find the rarest bird in the region. 

Luckily it didn’t take long before Lionel radioed in that he had a group of five White-bellied Seedsnipe right in front of him. We trudged up the mountain, now with sleet taking the place of rain. Through squinted eyes were saw the large birds crawl over the lump ahead of us and quickly fly off into the elements before getting a good look. The weather conditions were rough, but we persisted and eventually got quite close to the group as they slinked through the vegetated clumps like rodents of unusual size. A little further up a family of Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrants were encountered. We watched as an adult bird foraged all over the place with the younger bird never far behind. A Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant also joined the party allowing a nice comparison of the two species. Before heading back down the mountain we got some amazing looks at a male Yellow-bridled Finch, easy to pick out from the drabber young birds by its neon-yellow wings and tail. 

After getting back to the van we had a satisfying lunch with hot coffee and tea before heading back to Ushuaia. On the outskirts of town we stopped by the sanitary landfill. What birding trip would be complete without visiting at least one of these? It didn’t take long for some of the White-throated Caracaras to come wheeling in overhead. Crested and Chimango Caracaras also arrived, at some points standing side by side getting a nice comparison of the three species together. A young Black-chested Buzzard Eagle came in soaring overhead, standing out with its large size and overall brown plumage. In town we scanned the areas where boats were anchored to survey a huge flock of loafing Giant Petrels. Eventually one was spotted with a red bill tip indicating it was of the Northern ilk. We felt a sense of accomplishment after having looked at hundreds of Southern Giant Petrels’ green-tipped bills over the last week and never spotting a Northern in the mix. After a delicious meal in town, we headed to the airport for our late flight back to Buenos Aires. 

Though we only had a few hours of sleep due to our late flight, we rallied and headed out for our last day of birding together. We visited a couple preserves tucked into the banks of the La Plata River. It was fun catching up with species we’d seen on the first part of our adventure like Masked Gnatcatcher, White-winged Becard, and Narrow-billed Woodcreeper. We even added a bunch of new species for the trip. When exiting the van at Ribera Norte, we were met by a pair of White-eyed Parakeets perched together in a prominent snag. Soon we hit a diverse flock that added Swainson’s Flycatcher and Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet to the trip list. We took time here to differentiate between the Sooty-fronted Spinetails we’d seen already, and the Spix’s Spinetails we hadn’t. It was difficult to see the ‘front’ color of the bird, but the fact the voices were completely different certainly helped. We tried for and saw a couple Rufous-sided Crakes shoot through the edge of the marsh chattering their songs in duets. It was great to see this type of marshbird so well, a normally reclusive group of birds that can be very difficult to see. At the end of one trail, we heard the distinctive song of what would be a new bird for the overall trip list. A Greater Thornbird had taken up residence at this preserve this year and we were able to see it as it shot back and forth over the metal platform we were on. At the end of another trail, the ranger pointed out a magnificent Dusky-legged Guan that was slowly strutting through the undergrowth. It perched up and gave us extensive looks through the scope of its red throat and bare facial skin. Nearby another querulous flock came in which contained a female Ultramarine Grosbeak and very bold Rufous-browed Peppershrike just overhead. 

After our final picnic lunch of hand-made pizzas we decided to head over to another reserve at Vicente Lopez. Even though this was the last stop of the trip we continued to add new birds. A Variable Antshrike crept out of the vine tangles, as did an adult Golden-crowned Warbler. Some pishing brought in a diminutive White-barred Piculet so small it was hard to keep track of as it moved through the tree leaves. We tracked down some parakeet calls that led us to a fruiting fig tree that was dripping with frugivores. In with the Monk Parakeets stuffing their bills with figs were several Maroon-bellied and Yellow-chevroned Parakeets. Just before calling it a day, we spotted a Cattle Tyrant on the football fields chasing insects in short bursts of pursuit. 

This fantastic group of participants got along extremely well and made for a very smooth tour that was a pleasure to lead. The weather could not have been better with sunny days and partly cloudy skies. With only five participants and two leaders everyone’s ability to get on every bird was apparent, something that can be difficult to achieve on birdwatching tours. The scenery was changing constantly, as were the birds we encountered. These factors made for an exciting endeavor that I can’t wait to experience again on the next visit to Patagonia. 

-       Jake Mohlmann  

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