2024 Narrative
In Brief: Our Japan birding trip was exceptional, offering wonderful birds, fascinating mammals, unforgettable scenery, rich cultural experiences, and amazing culinary adventures. After staying at the Nikko Narita Hotel, we explored Kasumigaura Ukishima Marsh, spotting the elusive Marsh Grassbird and Ochre-rumped Bunting. In Nikko, we visited the Toshogu Shrine and birded at Senjogahara plateau, seeing Common Cuckoos and Brown Dippers. Shiga Kogen yielded Yellow Bunting and a rare Siberian Thrush. At Mount Fuji, we found Japanese Accentor and Spotted Nutcracker. In Okinawa, highlights included Okinawa Robin, Okinawa Rail, and Ryukyu Scops Owl. Amami offered the likes of Lidth’s Jay and Amami Woodcock. Hokkaido’s Rausu showcased Orcas and seabirds, while the Shiretoko Peninsula and Kushiro Marshlands provided sightings of Red-crowned Cranes and White-tailed Eagles. Blakiston’s Fish Owl at Yoroushi was an incredible highlight. Our journey was enriched by cultural sites like Toshogu Shrine and delightful hospitality at various inns, making this an unforgettable experience.
In Detail: After an enjoyable stay at the very comfortable Nikko Narita Hotel, we set out on our birding journey in Japan. Our first stop was Kasumigaura Ukishima Marsh, a small reserve known primarily as a stronghold for the shy Marsh Grassbird. Classified as Near Threatened by Birdlife International, this localized species has disjunct breeding populations only in China and Japan. Although known for being exceptionally elusive, this year we easily managed to get great views of this lovely little bird as it sang loudly with short bursts of flight from the tops of the tall reeds. We were also delighted to find several other excellent birds, including the often hard-to-find Ochre-rumped Bunting.
Next, we visited Watarase, a heart-shaped reservoir surrounded by a nature reserve. Here, we enjoyed the first of many picnic lunches in the sunshine and had a fabulous view of a stunning male Green Pheasant grazing out in the open. From there, we headed westwards on our journey into the mountains of Nikko.
Our next destination was the city of Nikko. This picturesque city is located in Tochigi Prefecture in central Honshu, and is renowned for its rich cultural heritage, stunning natural scenery, and historical significance. Amidst the bustling crowds we found a car park, and then headed up the surprisingly tranquil path to the amazing Toshogu Shrine. The most famous attraction in Nikko, this lavishly decorated Shinto shrine is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built in the early 17th century as a mausoleum for Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate. The shrine complex features intricate wood carvings, including the famous “Sleeping Cat” and “Three Wise Monkeys” carvings.
Our next birding destination was the Senjogahara plateau located in the heart of the Nikko National Park. The name means “battlefield” in Japanese and according to legend, the name comes from a mythical battle between the gods of Mount Nantai and Mount Akagi over control of nearby Lake Chuzenji. The plateau is situated at an elevation of approximately 1,400 meters (4,593 feet) above sea level, nestled between the volcanic mountains Nantai and Akanagi. Senjogahara covers an area of around 400 hectares (990 acres) and includes open marshes, grasslands, waterfalls, and patches of forest, creating a unique and diverse ecosystem. Our birding here was very successful with great sightings of Common Cuckoos (which were very vocal), Great Spotted Woodpecker, Coal Tit, Japanese Bush Warbler, and Meadow and Masked Buntings. A family of Brown Dippers, pointed out to Moe thanks to a fortuitous meeting with my friends Kasia and Someya san, were charming.
Shiga Kogen, also known as Shiga Highlands, is a renowned highland area located in Nagano Prefecture, Japan. It is famous for its natural beauty, and rich biodiversity, but probably most famously for its ski runs. At this time of year though, it is almost a ghost town, which suits us birders just fine!
Spanning elevations from 1,300 to 2,300 meters (4,265 to 7,546 feet) above sea level, this plateau forms part of the Joshin’etsu Kogen National Park in the northern reaches of Nagano Prefecture. Meeting up with my friends Koji san and Ida san, we enjoyed some outstanding birding in our too short time here, with a number of outstanding highlights, namely Yellow Bunting, Grey Bunting, Asian Stubtail, Narcissus Flycatcher, Brown-headed Thrush, and perhaps most surprisingly a rare Siberian Thrush singing from the top of a tall conifer. Although our activities were interrupted by heavy rain, we were not deterred, and a return visit was equally exciting with additions to the list including Siberian Blue Robin, Eurasian Treecreeper, and Asian Brown Flycatcher.
Mount Fuji, called “Fuji-san” in Japanese (not Fujiyama as often erroneously appears in the English language) is perhaps the most iconic symbol of Japan. Standing at 3,776 meters (12,389 feet) tall, Mount Fuji is Japan’s highest peak. It is an active stratovolcano with a distinct conical shape, capped with snow throughout the year. This beautiful mountain has been an enduring subject of art and literature throughout Japanese history and is considered a sacred mountain. Mount Fuji attracts millions of visitors each year, and climbing it is a very popular activity during the summer. Our aim though was not to climb the mountain but to find some its special birds – our main targets here were the endemic Japanese Accentor and Spotted Nutcracker.
Our first outing on the eastern flank of the mountain on the Subaru Line was at Okuniwa where we failed to find either of our targets but happily made do with Goldcrest, Red-flanked Bluetail and a surprise and very welcome pair of gorgeous Eurasian Bullfinches. Success came the next morning however when we again ascended the mountain, this time on the western flank up to the less crowded Fujinomya station. A brief burst of song alerted us to the presence of a fabulous Japanese Accentor proudly singing from atop a high perch. Further explorations revealed numerous Japanese Leaf Warblers, and a feisty family of very curious Spotted Nutcrackers. We took a brief break from birding to visit one of Kamakura’s many famous temples, the Hokokuji Temple which is rightly famous for its serene bamboo garden. As we took matcha tea overlooking the garden we contemplated the serenity in a zen manner…
Leaving the cool weather behind, we jetted south to the subtropical island of Okinawa. After picking up our vehicle and breakfast from a slice of home, namely Starbucks (not so much for the Aussie in the group), we motored to the Yanbaru area, now a large national park, which is characterized by dense forests, mangrove swamps, and pristine coastline. We explored various areas of this beautiful natural area starting with a visit to the Hiji Waterfall where we saw our first of many trip favourites, the stunning Okinawa Robin.
A couple of outings to Benoki Dam were quiet but we did find our only Okinawa Woodpecker here and we also enjoyed warm picnic lunches in stunning surroundings. Our hotel in the middle of nowhere, owned by my friend Nakata san, is an absolute delight, not least because there is a healthy population of Okinawa Rails in the surrounding forest. And night birding has never been easier! Ryukyu Scops Owl can be heard at the front entrance and is easily enticed in. Ruddy Kingfishers proved to be a bit of a challenge, but we eventually found a cooperative pair of this flashy birds as Ryukyu Minivets passed overhead. Some explorations of the coast and rice paddies turned up some interesting sightings in the form of Eastern Reef Egrets, Zitting Cisticolas, Light-vented Bulbuls, Eurasian Black-winged Stilt, and plentiful Blue Rock-Thrushes of the attractive chestnut-bellied philippensis subspecies.
Another subtropical island, Amami “Big Island” lies to the north of Okinawa in the East China Sea, and is part of Kagoshima Prefecture, Kyushu. Known in Japan as “the Galapagos of Japan”, the island is famous for its remarkable biodiversity. Its many endemic species include Amami Black Rabbit, Lidth’s Jay, Ryukyu Robin, Amami Woodcock, and Amami Thrush. Our birding started at the Amami Nature Forest where we soon found Ryukyu Robins to be exceptionally vocal but far less willing to show themselves! Lidth’s Jays betrayed their presence with raucous calls, and a small group of exceptionally angry Japanese Pygmy Woodpeckers entertained us with their antics. Ryukyu Green Pigeons, Varied Tits, and Warbling White-eyes also put in belated appearances. A tip off about a site for the elusive and beautiful Black (Japanese) Paradise-flycatcher worked well, even if the birds really did try our patience! The same site produced a fabulous Amami (White-backed) Woodpecker, so it was a very pleasing detour. Another detour to the Akina Ricefields was less successful with a Pheasant-tailed Jacana no-show – it was a long shot anyway. We did find a handful of trip birds though, including White-breasted Waterhen, Wood Sandpiper, and Medium Egret. A dusk and night drive to the Amami Forest Polis was a real trip highlight, thanks to a seemingly tame Amami Long-haired Rat, an amazing number of normally-invisible Amami Thrushes, and a super Amami Woodcock.
Our last morning on Amami was spent with a pre breakfast outing to Kinsakubaru, near the island capital of Naze. This simply stunning forest has recently and frustratingly been closed off to casual visitors but birding around the periphery was still very good with repeat sightings of Ryukyu Robin, Amami Woodpecker, and Ruddy Kingfisher.
Our last island was Japan’s wild west - Hokkaido, the north sea route. Separated from Honshu by the Tsugaru Strait, Hokkaido marks the boundary known as the imaginary faunal Blakiston’s Line. English naturalist Thomas Blake was among the first to observe and document the distinct faunal makeup of these islands. During our exploration, we encountered numerous species and subspecies unique to Hokkaido, including Brown Bear, Red Squirrel, Ezo Sika Deer, Ezo Red Fox, and the iconic Blakiston’s Fish Owl.
From Kushiro we hurried northward to Rausu on the northeastern Shiretoko Peninsula for a two-night stay. Arriving just in time for departure we boarded the Kamuiwaka for our nature cruise where we found large numbers of Short-tailed Shearwaters, Slaty-backed Gulls and hundreds of Red-necked Phalaropes. The star of this show was the pods of Orcas, though. We observed family groups comprised of males with their impressive dorsal fins, and females with youngsters in tow. In a particularly memorable moment one Orca came right over to the boat and we could observe her under the water.
The following day we embarked on a full-day exploration of the peninsula, heading over the Shiretoko Pass, a route accessible only during the summer months. This spectacular road passes through an untouched wilderness with incredible vistas of temperate and subalpine forests, and spectacular volcanic mountains. Notable birds today included Oriental Cuckoo, Japanese Grosbeak, Pacific Swift, and Eastern Buzzard. At Cape Utoro we were able to spot our hoped-for Spectacled Guillemots, as well as Harlequin Ducks and Japanese and Pelagic Cormorants. The undoubted highlight of the day was a big lumbering Brown Bear that strolled across the road right in front of our vehicle! As we left Rausu we popped up to the Rausu Kunashiri Observatory Tower for a spectacular view of the town and port and a wonderful pair of gorgeous Blue-and-white Flycatchers, at last.
Our next destination was the Notsuke Peninsula. On this unusual sand spit peninsula located on the central east coast, we enjoyed arguably our best day of birding. Now designated a Ramsar site and an Important Bird Area (IBA), it is a fantastic birding site. This is a wildfowl paradise, and we recorded Northern Shoveler, Falcated Teal, Eurasian Wigeon, Mallard, Green-winged Teal, Northern Pintail, Tufted Duck, Greater Scaup, Harlequin Duck, and Stejneger’s Scoter – quite the list! Latham’s Snipe showed exceptionally well, and our first Red-crowned Cranes were greeted with great excitement. A Middendorff’s Grasshopper Warbler, amongst the Eurasian Skylarks, Amur Stonechats and Oriental Greenfinches, was another welcome find.
Next, we traveled inland to the tiny village of Yoroushi—if it can even be called a village. One of the highlights of our Japan tours is the array of delightful hotels and inns we stay at, many offering sumptuous meals. The Daiichi Hot Spring Resort stands out as the pinnacle of these experiences, providing an unforgettable cultural, culinary and nature experience. At this time of year, the feeders outside the lobby window are relatively quiet, but our main goal was to catch a glimpse of the Blakiston’s Fish Owl. This magnificent bird, one of the largest owls in the world, can only reliably be seen in Hokkaido. Just as we finished our amazing banquet, we received word that the owl had arrived at its little fishing pond. We were thrilled to watch her for almost half an hour as she quietly and methodically dispatched a feast of small fish until she had her fill. Unforgettable!
Our last day of the tour was spent exploring the forests to the south of Yoroushi in the Kushiro Marshlands. Near lake Shibecha, we added Sakhalin Leaf Warbler and Russet Sparrow to the list as hundreds of Pacific Swifts swept overhead. On the well-appointed boardwalks at the Onnenai Nature Centre we found our only Kamchatka Leaf Warblers of the trip, and later managed to locate a sneaky Black-browed Reed Warbler to round out an impressive list of summer birds of Japan.
Thank you everyone for a very fun and rewarding tour! Thanks also to Erin all her help with the many logistics of this tour.
- Susan Myers
Created: 07 June 2024