Day 1: Participants should arrive in Tokyo no later than this evening. Night near Tokyo’s Narita Airport.

Day 2: We’ll make an early start with a morning visit to the marshes and reed beds of the Tone River, which is quite close to our hotel in Narita. This area is home to a wide variety of wetland birds and we should see Oriental and Black-browed Reed-warblers, while the localized Ochre-rumped (Japanese Reed) Bunting commonly breeds in the reed beds. If we’re lucky we’ll see our main target here, the restricted range Marsh Grassbird performing its distinctive display flight above the reeds; this is one of just a handful of locations for this rare and localized near endemic. 

After a lunch in the field, we'll move on to Shiga Kogen, a plateau in the Japanese Alps. This beautiful temperate woodland supports a rich selection of species in a relatively small area. The woods will be full of resident birds and returning summer visitors, many in full song. If we have time, we'll begin our explorations of the tracks and trails through deciduous and mixed woodland and along fast-flowing streams. Night at Shiga Kogen.

Day 3: As we bird the woodlands today, we'll be on the lookout for some special birds like Rufous Hawk-Cuckoo, Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, Brown Dipper, Japanese Thrush, Siberian Blue Robin, Siberian Stonechat, Blue-and-white Flycatcher, Eastern Crowned and Japanese Leaf Warblers, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Eurasian Bullfinch, and if we are lucky, the scarce and localized Grey and Japanese Yellow Buntings. If we receive reports, we may also go out at dusk in search of Ural Owl. Night at Shiga Kogen.

Day 4: After a final morning’s birding at Shiga Kogen, we’ll drive to the iconic Mount Fuji just south of Tokyo. We’ll bird along the way and if we have time, we’ll explore the forests in the vicinity of our hotel. We should have time to drive up the Subaru Line, the road that climbs the flanks of this most beautiful of mountains. We’ll bird as we go, hoping to find some of our main targets here, not least of which is Japanese Accentor, but also including Red-flanked Bluetail, Japanese Green-Pigeon, Ashy Minivet, Japanese Robin, or the diminutive Asian Stubtail, among others. Night at Gotemba.

Day 5: This morning we’ll again go birding either on the upper slopes of Mount Fuji (depending on how we did yesterday) or at a nearby reserve in Hakone, where we may find Japanese Green Pheasant and Daurian Redstart amongst others. After lunch we’ll make our way back towards Tokyo. Night in Haneda.

Day 6: We’ll fly farther south this morning to Naha, on the island of Okinawa, which lies at the southern end of the Japanese archipelago. Naha was the capital of the former kingdom of Ryukyu and was built around the king’s Shuri Castle. Sadly, large parts of the castle were lost to fire in 2019 but it is still a fascinating place to visit and reflect on this former kingdom that once held so much power, lying as it did at the crossroads with China and Japan. We may also visit the Shikinaen garden constructed in the 18th century as the second residence of the Ryukyu kings. It features beautiful, simple wooden palace buildings in the Okinawan style and a spacious Okinawan style landscape garden surrounding a central pond.

Okinawa is a large subtropical island, made infamous as the location of a major battle between American and Japanese forces in World War II. Large numbers of U.S. forces are still stationed in the southern part of the island, but the northern section, known as the Yanbaru, is covered in subtropical forest. We’ll travel northward to our lodging near the small town of Ada, our base for exploring the Yanbaru forest. Night at Kunigami.

Day 7: Okinawa holds a wide range of endemic and localized species, all of which occur in the Yanbaru area, now designated as a national park. It is here that the Okinawa Rail, discovered in 1981, and Okinawa Woodpecker occur. Rather easier to see here are Whistling Green-Pigeon, Pacific Swallow, Okinawa Robin, Ryukyu Minivet, and a distinctive endemic subspecies of Varied Tit. Okinawa Rails have become increasingly common, perhaps due to an excellent program of mongoose control that has been implemented in recent years, so we’ll spend much of our birding time on the island in search of this charismatic species and other endemics. Other targets include the wonderful Japanese Paradise-Flycatcher and the gaudy Ruddy Kingfisher. In the evening, for those with interest, we will cruise the backroads for endemic reptiles and amphibians. Night at Kunigami.

Days 8-9: After a final morning’s birding we’ll drive back to Naha and take the short flight to Amami Oshima. Sometimes known as the Galapagos of the East, Amami Oshima supports extensive areas of lush, subtropical forest as well as a distinctive community of birds, mammals, and reptiles including a host of little-known and very localized species. On arrival we'll take a very short drive to a beachside area in search of Black-faced Spoonbill and other shorebirds that might be around. 

The island is home to a handful of fabulous endemics including the beautiful Lidth’s Jay, a fairly common bird here, the secretive Amami Woodcock, and the much scarcer Amami Thrush. Other birds we may encounter include the surprisingly confiding Ryukyu Scops-Owl, the distinctive Ryukyu race of Brown Hawk-Owl, the delightful but skulking Ryukyu Robin, and the very distinctive and highly splittable race of White-backed (Owsten’s) Woodpecker. In addition to the endemic birds, we may find the remarkable nocturnal Amami Black Rabbit and Amami Spiny Rat. In the evening we will do a night drive in search of the woodcock, the owls, and the rabbit, as well as endemic frogs and snakes. Nights at Amami Oshima. 

Day 10: This morning we’ll visit the fascinating Amami Cultural Park, where we can have the rare opportunity to see the works of Tanaka Isson, one of Japan's greatest painters, as well as a cultural display that allows a deeper understanding of Japanese island life. Then we'll make our way to the airport for our mid-morning flight back to Tokyo. Night at Haneda.

Day 11: This morning we’ll travel by air to Kushiro, where we’ll pick up our vehicle and drive to the Kiritappu Marshland Observatory and Cape Kiritappu en route to Nemuro. We'll be on the lookout for Black-browed Reed Warbler and Middendorff’s Grasshopper Warbler, in particular. After lunch with Siberian Rubythroats and Japanese Cormorants at the Cape we’ll make our way eastwards to the Nemuro Peninsula hopefully with several stops for Red-crowned Cranes, maybe even with chicks. We will also visit several hides in nature reserves or forest roads for Marsh Tit, White’s Thrush, Brown-headed Thrush, Eurasian Bullfinch, or Japanese Bush Warbler. Night in Nemuro.

Day 12: This morning we’ll take a nature cruise from the small port of Ochiishi this morning hoping for a remarkable array of seabirds including Spectacled Guillemot, Pigeon Guillemot, Ancient Murrelet, Tufted Puffin, Common and Brunnich’s Guillemot, Rhinoceros Auklet, Short-tailed, Sooty, and Flesh-footed Shearwaters, Japanese, Pelagic and Red-faced Cormorants or even Black-footed or Laysan Albatross. Afterwards we’ll make our way northwards to the Shiretoko Peninsula, stopping at several marshlands and grasslands for birding en route. One detour will be to the Notsuke Peninsula which is great for Lanceolated Warbler, Long-tailed Rosefinch, and Eurasian and Oriental Cuckoos. Night in Rausu.  

Day 13: This afternoon we’ll take a short cruise for whale-watching. Our chances of seeing Orcas are high and we will probably spot some more of the special seabirds that occur here. Harlequin Duck, Black Scoter, Red-throated and Pacific Loons, Pelagic Cormorants, Black-tailed Gull, Spectacled Guillemot, Rhinoceros Auklet are all possible. Later we’ll drive inland to stay at one of the most charming lodges in all of Japan, which is really saying something! As we immerse ourselves in Japanese culture, we will be on the lookout for the Blakiston’s Fish Owl that regularly visits the stream that runs in front of the lodge. A well-stocked feeder just outside the lobby also attracts some great birds including Great Spotted and White-backed Woodpeckers, Hokkaido Jay, and Japanese, Marsh, Coal and Long-tailed Tits. Night at Yoroushi.

Day 14: This morning we’ll venture out to visit the Lake Akan area where we’ll drive and walk the quiet forest roads in search of Black and Grey-headed Woodpeckers, Spotted Nutcracker, Red Crossbill, and with a lot of luck, Hazel Grouse. In the afternoon we will venture farther north to Lake Tofutsu where we hope to find Chestnut-eared Bunting and maybe even Wryneck. If time permits, we'll also drop in to Shiretoko National Park, where we might find Brown Bear, safely from our vehicle of course! We’ll return again for another night in Yoroushi for hopefully another meeting with the Blakiston’s Fish Owl! Night at Yoroushi.

Day 15: On our last day of the tour we'll head to the airport with a stop at On'nenai in the Kushiro Marshlands National Park for some grassland and wetland birds, possibly including more encounters with Siberian Rubythroat, Middendorff's Grasshopper Warbler, Black-browed Reed Warbler, Common Reed Bunting, Long-tailed Tit, Chestnut-cheeked Starling, Black-faced Bunting or the charismatic Latham's Snipe. Then we'll make our way to Kushiro airport for our flight back to Tokyo, where the tour concludes upon arrival at Haneda airport. 

2025 Narrative

Our tour began with our collective arrival into Narita, where we met as a group at our hotel for an initial briefing and welcome dinner. Spirits were high as we prepared to explore Japan’s diverse birdlife, from lowland marshes to subtropical forests and the far northern coasts, lakes and mountains.

Our first birding stop was at Ukishima on Lake Kasumigaura, an expansive area of reeds, fields and brush, where the range restricted Marsh Grassbird was plentiful but elusive—many flushed briefly before vanishing into the reeds, but with perseverance we managed some excellent view. Oriental Reed-Warblers were all over the place, and Zitting Cisticolas lofted up all around us. A Green Pheasant in the rice paddies offered excellent scope views and got the trip off to a great start.

Next, we headed inland to the Shiga Kogen (Plateau) nestled in the Japan Alps in Central Honshu. From our base at the Takimoto Hotel, we made a pre-breakfast visit to a local site where both Yellow Bunting and Grey Bunting showed well. A Japanese Green Woodpecker added an exciting bonus. With rain setting in, we shifted gears and visited Zenkoji Temple in Nagano, which turned out to be a popular and rewarding cultural stop. Returning to the plateau, we headed out again for some afternoon birding which was quiet due to lingering weather. Later we regrouped for checklist and a delicious dinner at our hotel.

Rain delayed the next morning’s birding so after a late start we left the plateau for our journey to Mount Fuji with some stops en route at several of Japan’s very impressive Highway Rest Areas. We had a delicious lunch at a michi-no-eki en route before an afternoon birding session at the Saiko Bird Forest, where we had a productive birding session despite the rainy conditions. Taking shelter under the eaves of the nature centre we encountered our first Eurasian Nuthatches, Oriental Greenfinches, and Varied Tits. 

In the evening, we found a fantastic local restaurant in Gotemba, and learned about the ingenious Japanese “unten daikō” designated driver system that allowed Koji and I to join everyone in a glass of wine, or beer as the case may be (using an app one can call a person to drive your own car back to your point of origin, thus obeying Japan’s strict 0.0% alcohol limit). 

Next morning we continued to the Fuji Subaru Line, stopping first near the base where bird activity was mostly vocal. Those Asian Stubtails really taunted us! Higher up on the slopes of this magnificent mountain at Okuniwa we had greater success, including our hoped-for Japanese Accentor and Spotted Nutcracker. We enjoyed the sight of a pair of Eurasian Bullfinches bathing in a tiny pond at the back of the rustic restaurant to the great delight of the gang of attendant photographers. A hot-pot lunch (o-nabë) at the site was a warm and welcome, not to mention delicious, break. That afternoon we visited Chureito Pagoda, which everyone enjoyed, although crowd control left something to be desired.

After an adventurous drive through Tokyo, we arrived at Haneda, returned the vehicles and checked into our exceptionally convenient, not to mention comfortable, hotel located within the airport and right next to our check in counters. We enjoyed a relaxing dinner, where fish and chips were the order of the evening!

From Haneda, we flew south to Okinawa, arriving mid-morning and driving north to Ada, pausing for views of Roseate and Black-naped Terns, and a lunch break, at a site along the way. We added Eastern Reef Egrets to our list and spied our first of many Blue Rock-Thrushes. An afternoon walk near our perfectly situated hotel provided a quick introduction to the region’s birdlife. Later that evening, after our sumptuous dinner, our host called us to come an observe a pair of sleeping Okinawa Rails in the hotel gardens.

Despite heavy rain the following morning, we managed to see Okinawa Rail just behind the hotel—a fantastic sighting. After breakfast, we birded at Terukubi Rindo, Aha Dam, and Kunigami Forest Park, where we saw a variety of the Ryukyu endemic birds. A successful night drive, with a superb Ryukyu Leaf Turtle, that evening capped off a soggy but rewarding day.

The next morning, we returned to Okinawa’s capital, Naha, with a productive birding stop at the Kin paddy fields along the way. This patchwork of rice paddies and irrigation channels proved lively with bird activity, and among the many familiar species, the Light-vented Bulbul stood out as a particular highlight—perched conspicuously and vocalizing from utility wires and treetops. From Naha, we boarded a small ATR turboprop bound for Amami Ōshima. The flight itself was a treat, offering stunning aerial views of Japan’s southern islands scattered like emeralds across the deep blue sea—a vivid preview of the tropical landscapes awaiting us on Amami.

After landing, we went straight to Ōse, a scenic area of coastal mudflats on the eastern shore of Amami Ōshima, one of the largest islands in the Nansei (Ryukyu) archipelago. These tidal flats are an important feeding ground for migratory waterbirds, and our visit was immediately rewarded with excellent views of two globally rare and highly sought-after species—Black-faced Spoonbill and Chinese Egret—both foraging quietly in the shallows. Amami Ōshima is known not only for its endemic wildlife and subtropical forests, but also for its rich coastal ecosystems, which support a variety of birdlife throughout the year. Following this exciting start, we continued on to Naze, the island’s main town, and checked in to the very comfortable Sun Days Hotel—a modern, well-located base for exploring the island’s diverse habitats over the coming days.

Our birding on Amami Ōshima began with a visit to the Amami Nature Observation Centre, a great introduction to the island’s unique ecosystems and endemic wildlife. From there, we explored the agricultural fields around Akina, scanning the fields and open areas for bird activity, before dropping in to the island’s striking Cycad Habitat—a dramatic coastal landscape dominated by prehistoric-looking Cycas revoluta, endemic to this part of Japan. After a satisfying lunch at Joyfull and some well-earned downtime, we set off again in the late afternoon, this time to a remote area in the southern part of the island, where we enjoyed a picnic dinner surrounded by subtropical forest.

What followed turned out to be one of the true highlights of the trip. As dusk fell, we were treated to close views of two charismatic night birds: Northern Boobook and the diminutive Ryukyu Scops Owl, both calling and perched in full view. Energized by this excellent start, we loaded up the vehicles for a night drive—and were almost immediately rewarded. First came the improbably adorable Amami Black Rabbit, a living fossil found nowhere else in the world. Over the course of the evening, we saw at least 15 individuals, most casually feeding along the roadside. Not long after, we encountered a striking snake—known locally as Akamata and unfortunately burdened with the English name Ryukyu Odd-toothed Snake. Our luck continued with a steady stream of frogs, geckos, and invertebrates, and then, right on cue, we spotted our most hoped-for nocturnal bird: the elusive Amami Woodcock. We were able to watch and photograph this near-mythical species at length, a magical end to an already unforgettable night.

The following morning, we set out early for Kinsakubaru Forest, a lush and rugged patch of native subtropical forest that supports many of Amami’s endemic species. Birding was somewhat challenging, but persistence paid off with good views of Ryukyu Flycatcher. Lidth’s Jay, however, proved more difficult—heard frequently and briefly glimpsed, but never fully cooperative. After breakfast and check-out, we made a final stop at the impressive Amami Culture Centre, where we learned more about the island’s natural and cultural history. Then it was off to the airport for our flight back to Haneda for another overnight stay before continuing on to the Hokkaido leg of the adventure.

We landed in Kushiro and made our way directly to Kiritappu, a remote and beautiful coastal area known for its expansive wetlands and rich birdlife. Along the scenic trails, we kept a sharp lookout for regional specialties, with the skulking Black-browed Reed Warbler high on our target list. By midday, we took a break for a simple but satisfying conbini lunch, enjoyed at a lookout with sweeping views of the windswept cape. As we ate, we were treated to some excellent wildlife sightings, including Pacific Loon bobbing offshore, Japanese Cormorant along the rocky shore, and a surprise appearance from a Siberian Rubythroat. The highlight, however, may well have been a Sea Otter drifting just beyond the breakers—an unexpected and delightful bonus.

At Shunkunitai, we heard the resonant drumming and calls of Black Woodpecker echoing through the forest—a promising start—but our time there was unfortunately cut short. Not by weather or scheduling, but by relentless clouds of black flies that descended on us in thick, biting swarms, quickly making the experience unbearable and forcing an early retreat.

The next morning, we set off early from Nemuro for the drive to Rausu, where we embarked on a spectacular nature cruise in the rich waters off the Shiretoko Peninsula. The outing exceeded all expectations: at least 30 Orcas were spotted, many approaching the boat of their own accord, offering unforgettable close-up views of these majestic marine mammals. Birding from the boat added to the excitement, with Rhinoceros Auklets bobbing on the water and Northern Fulmars gliding effortlessly above the waves.

In the afternoon, we made our way back down the coast, birding as we went along the Notsuke Peninsula. This unique landscape of windswept dunes and stunted trees delivered some real highlights, including calling Latham’s Snipe, the bright-pink tones of Long-tailed Rosefinch, and an aerial skirmish between four Common Cuckoos—an energetic and dramatic display to end an exceptional day.

Our next cruise, this time from Utoro on the western side of the Shiretoko Peninsula, offered some truly memorable sightings. Despite the somewhat distracting non-stop onboard commentary, we enjoyed excellent views of a female Brown Bear with four cubs—a remarkable sight as they foraged along the rocky shoreline. Out on the water, Spectacled Guillemots showed well, their striking plumage and distinctive red feet a highlight for many.

Later in the day, a stop along the island’s wild north coast yielded a real surprise: a pair of Eurasian Wrynecks working the edge of a wooded clearing. More Siberian Rubythroats were heard and seen, and we added the subtly handsome Chestnut-eared Bunting to our growing list.

That evening, back at our peaceful accommodation in Yoroushi, the day ended on a high note. As we sat down to dinner, the lodge’s star attraction made a timely appearance—Blakiston’s Fish Owl. It landed just outside the dining room window, prompting a flurry of excitement and camera shutters, and provided extended views to the delight of all.

On our final full day, we visited Lake Akan, where despite the windy conditions, we were rewarded with some excellent bird sightings—most notably the striking Grey-headed Woodpecker. Lunch at Tsurui was enjoyable, a perfect setting for our midday break. Afterward, we spotted a group of majestic Red-crowned Cranes, which took to the air and flew gracefully away just as we caught sight of them, adding a touch of magic to the afternoon. Our last stop was at On’nenai Observatory, where we added a few more species to our tally while soaking in the peaceful wetland views. With the day complete, we returned to Kushiro, bringing this richly varied and unforgettable tour to a satisfying close.

It was a real pleasure to travel with such an enthusiastic and good-natured group. A special thank you to Koji for his excellent guiding, local knowledge, and ever-cheerful presence throughout the tour. I also want to say how much I appreciated reconnecting with those of you who have travelled with me before—it really means a lot to share these birding adventures together again. 

Wishing you all safe travels and many more great birds ahead!

- Susan Myers

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