Day 1: The tour begins this evening with dinner at an airport hotel in Delhi. Night in Delhi.

Day 2: After breakfast we'll drive south to the town of Dholpur, located near the Chambal River. We’ll arrive in time for lunch at our palatial accommodation followed by a boat trip on the Chambal River. Indian Skimmer still breeds here, and we should be able to find several of these increasingly rare birds, along with Black-bellied Tern and perhaps Sand Lark. The rare Gharial, Mugger Crocodile, and even Gangetic Dolphin are also here, and we’ll hope to see all three. 

Our hotel, the Dholpur Palace, is a unique example of the Indian fascination with European, and especially Dutch ceramics. Set in 13 acres of garden, the Palace grounds are as well full of bird life that it shares with the nearby National Chambal Sanctuary. Night at the Raj Niwas Dholpur Palace Hotel. 

Day 3: We’ll drive a short distance north to Agra for our visit to the Taj Mahal—“no mere building, but a love immortalized in marble.” Birders who are unmoved by Shah Jahan’s promise to build a tomb that would forever recall the love he shared with Mumtaz Mahal should still enjoy the profusion of raptors over the Taj, not to mention the rich birdlife found on the banks of the Yamuna River. We may encounter Ruddy Shelduck or River Lapwing, while Asian Koel and Brown-headed Barbet can be seen in the leafy gardens. 

In the afternoon we’ll drive to Bharatpur National Park, one of the ornithological wonders of the world. Night at Bharatpur. 

Days 4-5: Keoladeo National Park, or simply Bharatpur, was originally a vast wetland developed for duck shooting. Coaches are not allowed inside the park so we’ll explore the 10 square miles by electric buggy and on foot. Birding here is always very rewarding, with the possibility of more than 150 species ranging from Sarus Crane to Small Minivet, from Brown Crake to Eastern Imperial Eagle. Among the vast numbers of waterbirds, Black-necked and Painted Storks, Intermediate Egret, and Oriental Darter will vie for our attention as we search for more sought-after species such as Ferruginous Duck, Red-crested Pochard, and Greater Painted-snipe. In the trailside trees we’ll look for Marshall’s Iora, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Common Wood-Shrike, White-bellied Drongo, Coppersmith Barbet, and Ashy Prinia. Beneath the bushes the slightest movement could signal a Bluethroat or, with luck, an Orange-headed Thrush or Siberian Rubythroat. In the sky above there might be Greater Spotted Eagle, Red-headed Vulture, or Crested Serpent-Eagle. Dusk may bring us Collared Scops or Dusky Horned Owls, or a nightjar or two. Note that Bharatpur is suffering from a long-term acute water shortage, and although the actual amount of water in the park varies, depending largely on the magnitude of the previous summer’s monsoon, the sanctuary has been very dry for most of the 21st century. Because of this, we might now spend only one full day inside the reserve, and visit sites outside the reserve as time allows. Nights at Bharatpur.

Day 6: Our next destination is the famous Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve. Driving through the open countryside of the Gangetic Plain will be a wonderful introduction to rural India, and we can expect to see Indian Pond Heron, Black-shouldered Kite, Common Peafowl, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Indian Roller, Black Drongo, and Common and Bank Mynas along the way. Arriving around midday, we’ll check into our hotel and later have our first safari drive in the reserve in search of the majestic Bengal Tiger. Night at a comfortable lodge outside the Tiger Reserve at Ranthambhore.

Day 7: Ranthambhore is the subcontinent’s most famous and accessible tiger reserve, and we’ll take six drives in all inside the park during the mornings and early evenings. Our open-topped vehicles allow excellent views of the wildlife, and we’ll undoubtedly see good numbers of Spotted Deer, an important prey item for the elusive tiger. Elusive they may be, but the habitat here is fairly open, and a healthy tiger population and excellent local knowledge ensures that we have a good chance of at least one encounter with this magnificent cat. Ornithological distractions could include Painted Spurfowl, Changeable Hawk-Eagle, and White-naped Woodpecker. Night at Ranthambhore.

Day 8:  If we haven’t had an excellent tiger experience, we’ll focus on finding one. There are numerous other attractions here as well, including a spectacular ancient fort and a series of bird-thronged lakes. Outside the reserve we have a good chance of finding regional specialties such as the gorgeous Indian Courser and elusive Painted Sandgrouse. Night at Ranthambhore.

Day 9: After a final morning drive in the reserve, we’ll leave Ranthambhore and return to Delhi to get ready for tomorrow’s early morning train trip. Night in Delhi. 

Day 10: We’ll leave very early to catch our train to Kathgodam at the base of the mighty Himalayas. We should arrive around midday and, after lunch, drive to Ramnagar where we’ll search the boulder-strewn river for the rare and increasingly elusive Ibisbill and the stunning Wallcreeper. From there we’ll drive to just outside Corbett National Park where our superb lodge offers marvelous views across the Kosi River and a rich woodland where we are free to wander on foot. Night at The Den. 

Day 11: We’ll explore the river edge for Brown and Tawny Fish-Owls, Crested Kingfisher, Brown Dipper, and Plumbeous Water and White-capped Redstarts. It’s an area full of surprises, and in recent years we have regularly seen Long-billed Thrush and Little Forktail, as well as Rufous-bellied Eagle and Mountain Hawk-Eagle. The many new species possible in the forest include Collared Falconet, Crested Tree Swift, Hair-crested Drongo, and Orange-bellied Leafbird. Night at The Den.

Day 12: After breakfast we’ll enter the highly scenic and internationally famous Corbett National Park. Red Junglefowl and Kalij Pheasant are immediate possibilities. The Park, established for Project Tiger in 1935, covers 200 square miles and we may not see tigers here  given the vast areas of forest in which they roam. Exploration on foot is not allowed—indeed, it is possible only in areas adjacent to our lodge or if accompanied by an armed guard. Happily, the park is easily accessible by our open-top jeeps. 

Located in the Himalayan foothills between 1,300 and 3,500 feet above sea level, the reserve is divided by the River Ram Ganga, which harbors two species of inland crocodile and offers a variety of habitats from dense jungle and mature forests to open grassland, broad river valleys, and rolling hills. After a fantastic day of birding and game viewing in the park, we’ll then transfer to Dhikuli in preparation for tomorrow’s safari in a different section of the park. Night in Dhikuli. 

Day 13: The wealth and variety of species in the Dhela and Jhirna zones of the park seems almost inexhaustible: Great Hornbill, Asian Barred Owlet, Slaty-headed Parakeet, Himalayan Swiftlet, Lesser Fish-Eagle, or even Great Thick-knee, Stork-billed Kingfisher, or White-tailed Rubythroat. In addition to Bengal Tiger, mammals could include Indian Elephant, Indian Muntjac, and Hog Deer. Night at Dhikuli.

Day 14: After a final morning exploring the Dhikuli area, we’ll drive to the old colonial-era hill station of Nainital, a journey that takes us along one of the world’s more spectacular mountain roads as we climb into the Kumaon Hills to this delightful “lake city.” We’ll stop along the way to look for birds including Long-tailed Broadbill, Black-throated Jay, Black-throated Bushtit, Blue-capped Redstart, and the stunning Spotted Forktail. Night in Nainital.

Days 15-16: Driving up to the mountain ridge above Nainital, we’ll look across to the snow-capped Western Himalayas and the borders of China and Nepal. If the weather is clear, we’ll be able to see Nanda Devi, at 24,500 feet India’s highest peak, from a viewpoint often alive with Oriental Turtle Dove, Chestnut-crowned and White-throated Laughingthrushes, Gray-winged Blackbird, and Red-flanked Bluetail. A gentle downhill stroll back into town will add many sub-Himalayan species to our list. On walks through the surrounding valleys and forested hills we’ll hope for Hill Partridge, Altai Accentor, White-tailed Nuthatch, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler, Golden Bush-Robin, Yellow-breasted Greenfinch, and Common, Dark-breasted, and Pink-browed Rosefinches. From a nearby mountain lookout, close-passing raptors such as Himalayan Vulture, Lammergeier, and Steppe Eagle are possible while other surprises could include Cheer and Koklass Pheasants, Great Barbet, White-browed Shrike-Babbler or Rufous Sibia. Streaked Laughingthrush is a common garden bird here, and the numerous wooded gullies and gardens around town have in recent years produced Chestnut Thrush, Fire-fronted Serin, and Russet Sparrow, all within walking distance of our hotel.

On one day we’ll visit the lake at Sattal, passing through coniferous forests, a patchwork of farm fields, and deciduous woodland surrounding the lake. Each of these habitats holds different birds, and highlights on previous visits have included Brown Wood Owl, White-crested and Rufous-chinned Laughingthrushes, Red-billed Leiothrix, Scaly Thrush, Black-throated Accentor, and White-capped Bunting. Nights in Nainital.

Day 17: After a final morning around Nainital, we’ll return to Kathgodam where we’ll take lunch before boarding our afternoon train back to Delhi with a scheduled arrival time just before nine p.m. Night in Delhi. 

Day 18: We’ll finish our birding in this exciting and bird-rich part of the world at Sultanpur, a wildlife reserve close to the capital. Even after nearly three weeks in this fascinating country, there will still be new species to distract us, perhaps including Eastern Orphean Warbler and regional specialties such as Brooks’s Leaf Warbler and Sind Sparrow. Night in Delhi.  

Day 19: The tour concludes with transfers to the airport. 

2026 Narratvie

Our trip started in typical Delhi fashion—crowded, chaotic, and slow-moving. The group gathered that evening for a quick meeting and dinner. Everyone seemed eager, and it was clear from the start that we had a solid group.

We headed out the next morning for Dholpur, where we had a hasty lunch before heading out. Chambal was our first real birding site, and it delivered. We made our way down to the river and boarded our boat to take us on our outing along the river. Indian Skimmers, Great Thick-knees, Small Pratincoles, and River and Black-bellied Terns were among the highlights, and we also saw several very impressive Gharials and Mugger Crocs sunning along the banks. After the cruise and a couple of birding stops, we made our way to back to our hotel for a delicious evening meal.

After an early breakfast, we departed for the drive to Agra and the Taj Mahal. Our early morning visit was far less hectic than usual although we hardly had the place to ourselves! As expected, the entrance process was packed and disorganized but once inside, the monument was, of course, stunningly impressive, and we spent the morning exploring with a local guide. After that, it was another hour on the road to our hotel in Bharatpur.

Keoladeo National Park at Bharatpur is always exciting, and we had two full days here. Birding by eRickshaw let us cover plenty of ground, and the species diversity was amazing: Sarus Cranes, Greater Spotted-Eagles, Indian Peafowl, Painted Storks, and many more. One afternoon, we explored a different site outside Agra and had good looks at Spotted Crake, Greated Painted-snipe, and Indian Bushlark—a trip highlight for many in the group.      

Next stop was Ranthambore. The drive to our hotel took most of the day with a couple of birding stops, including a successful search for the scarce Indian Courser as well as Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Variable Wheatear, and Tawny Pipit. We checked in to the evocatively named Tiger Den Resort and went out that same afternoon on safari. In Zone 4, we got lucky: a group of teenage Bengal Tiger siblings found sheltering in the bushes from the intense heat.

Over the next few days, we did multiple safaris across different zones. The birding was fantastic with sightings of Painted Spurfowl, Asian Woolly-necked Stork, Brown Fish-Owl, Crested Serpent Eagles, Jungle Owlets, Plum-headed Parakeets—and we even had multiple Sloth Bear sightings – an adult pair, a mother with three cubs, and three teenage siblings no less! Each morning followed a similar rhythm: early breakfast, safari, midday break, and then another drive in the afternoon. We explored different zones on each outing and each zone seemed to have its own character with different micro habitats.

A huge highlight in Zone 3 was a sighting of an adult female Tiger who nonchalantly walked down the road ahead of our vehicle before briefly disappearing into a creek bed, before reappearing holding a well-seasoned deer leg she had clearly previously stashed away. She sat down in front of us for her morning snack. 

One mid-morning outing in a dry scrub area in search of Painted Sandgrouse, was less successful but Rufous-fronted Prinias were an added bonus at this very hot and dry site. We also had outstanding views of a rare Indian Fox. 

From Ranthambore, we made the long drive back to Delhi, arriving tired but satisfied. The next morning started early again—this time for a train ride north. The station was hectic as usual, but we boarded without trouble. The five-hour ride passed smoothly, with a very ordinary breakfast served on board! On arrival in Kothgadam we had lunch near the station and then stopped at the Koshi Barrage and Girija Devi Temple, where we found a whole new suite of bird species. Then made our way to our delightful hotel (with its gardens full of birds) in the foothills of Corbett.

We spent the following day exploring the Kumeriya area outside the national park, birding along quiet roads and stopping at a roadside stall for a morning pakora snack. Again, a whole new set of bird life greeted us here, and we enjoyed some exciting sightings, including Little Forktail, Black-chinned Babbler, Himalayan Black-lored Tit, and garrulous White-crested Laughingthrushes. A spritely Immaculate Cupwing responded strongly but sneakily to our enticements! 

On another afternoon, we returned to the temple and picked up the much-hoped-for Wallcreeper—another major trip target. Back at the hotel, we squeezed in some night birding with success in the form of a Jungle Owlet and Brown Boobook. The grounds of the hotel proved to be excellent for birds, and we found Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Grey-winged Blackbird, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, and Common Green-Magpie. 

We transferred to the Dhikala area the next day, on the other side Corbett National Park, and did a full day of birding by jeep inside the park. Despite the rain and cold weather, we had a good day with sightings of Tickell’s Thrush, Small Minivet, Great Hornbill, Himalayan Griffon, and Tickell’s Blue-Flycatcher, and mammals such as Indian Muntjac, Tarai Grey Langur, and Golden Jackal. 

From Corbett, we moved on to Nainital, stopping along the way for birding and a visit to the Jim Corbett Museum (which was mostly about souvenir shopping, to be honest). In Nainital, we settled into a more mountainous rhythm. We birded Pangot and the surrounding areas, hitting our highest elevation of the trip. A shout from Gajendra, who’d moved down the road a bit, alerted us to one of the undoubted highlights of our birding journey – the call of a Cheer Pheasants! Fortunately, Chris stayed put, and he expertly spotted it on the other side of the ravine, so we were able to watch this remarkable and highly sought-after pheasant at length. 

As we braved the chilly Himalayan morning, we also spotted Upland Pipit and impressively large flocks of Altai Accentors. Species spotted at other sites along this winding, mountainous road included Bar-tailed Treecreeper, Tytler’s Leaf-Warbler, Rufous Sibia, Ultramarine Flycatcher, and Black-throated Tit. At our lunch stop, we were entertained by Black-headed Jays, Streaked Laughingthrushes, and Yellow-breasted Greenfinches. 

The next day we visited Sattal, meaning Seven lakes, an interconnected group of seven freshwater lakes situated in the Lower Himalayan Range near Bhimtal, a town of the Nainital district in Uttarakhand, India. We spent the early morning in a hide, where we had a steady stream of fabulous forest species – Rufous-throated Partridge, Kalij Pheasant, Red-billed Blue-Magpie, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, and dozens of Red-billed Leiothrix. Woodpeckers were also represented with Brown-fronted Woodpecker and Grey-headed Woodpecker. Outside the hide, we spotted Grey-sided Bush-Warbler and Himalayan Rubythroat, much to our delight. 

Later, we went with Ankit, Gajendra’s friend, who guided us through the rest of the day. Further explorations turned up some more exciting birds, including the gorgeous Small Niltava and Ultramarine Flycatcher. Being a local, Ankit had some secret sites, including one for a fabulous Brown Wood-Owl, that we were able to observe and photograph at length. At the Chaffi River, we were pleased to find Brown Dipper and thrilled to see Spotted Forktails and Plumbeous Water-Redstarts. 

 Traffic on the way back to Nainital was brutal—it was a Sunday—and it took ages to get back to our hotel. But once there we enjoyed a soothing drink at the comfortable bar in our delightful hotel while we did the list. The following morning, we squeezed in one last birding walk on Lands’ End Road before heading back to Kathgodam. What a memorable end with Leopard and Goral spotted on the cliffsides as we spotted Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes, Pink-browed Rosefinches and Red-billed Blue-Magpies. Before boarding our train to Delhi, we enjoyed a delicious South Indian thali lunch. 

Our final birding destination was Sultanpur National Park. Before entering the park itself, we birded the surrounding areas and had a very productive morning with Striated Babblers, Bank Mynas, Yellow-bellied Prinia, Streak-throated Swallow and three species of weaver. Highlights of the day were shy Paddyfield Warblers and Sind Sparrow. Later, after lunch, we briefly explored Sultanpur, but the heat was too much for birds and birders, and while there were many birds in attendance, there was nothing new for our list. 

In just under three weeks, we saw hundreds of species of bird, as well as some sensational mammals, and crossed through multiple ecosystems—from city traffic and riverbanks to scrub plains, tiger forests, and mountain villages. India doesn’t always make it easy, but it always makes it worth it. 

Many thanks to you all for a most enjoyable birding tour through this remarkable country. I’d also like to extend a special thanks to Gajendra for his assistance, support and expertise; as well as Vinod for his organisational skills that enabled our untroubled journey through the country. 

My photos from the tour can be found here: https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjC6S28 and here: https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjCPf1i

Susan Myers, March 2026

Back to Narratives