Day 1: The trip begins on Oahu this evening at 6:00pm in the lobby of our group hotel where we will have an introductory meeting and dinner. Night in Waikiki. 

Day 2: We’ll begin our birding from right out the front door of our hotel, where White Terns (Manu-o-Ku) will be wheeling over the spreading trees of Queen Kapiolani Park. Pacific Golden-Plovers should be patrolling the field edges, and everywhere we look there will be a wealth of introduced birds, such as Common Myna, Red-crested Cardinal, Red-vented Bulbul, Yellow-fronted Canary, Java Sparrow, Common Waxbill, Spotted and Zebra Doves, and Rose-ringed Parakeet. After the park we will leave the city behind and head a bit inland for our first taste of forest birding.  We’ll first seek out Oahu’s only remaining endemic species of honeycreeper in the hills above Honolulu; the Oahu Amakihi. Later in the day we’ll concentrate our attention on a coastal forested valley, where along a short but somewhat steep trail we will hopefully encounter the engaging (and endangered) Oahu Elepaio, an endemic species of Monarch Flycatcher. Not all of the introduced species on the island prefer city parks, and while on our endemic bird adventure we could also encounter White-rumped Shama, noisy flocks of Red-billed Leiothrix, an occasional Red-whiskered Bulbul, and chattering groups of Warbling White-eyes.  Night in Waikiki.

Day 3: Today we’ll journey up the picturesque windward side to experience the serenity of Oahu’s Northern Shore in search of visiting shorebirds, such as Wandering Tattler and sought-after Bristle-thighed Curlew (Kioea). While cruising the coastline, famous for world class surf beaches and secluded coves with basking sea turtles, we are sure to find a few more flashy introduced species, such as the Saffron Finch and the handsome Chestnut Munia. We’ll certainly stop at the large salt ponds near the US Airforce Base where with luck we should find foraging Hawaiian Black Noddy chasing small schools of baitfish around in the shallow waters.  This subspecies greatly differs from other Black Noddies, with an ash gray rump and tail, all gray crown and nape and bright orangish feet and legs. As it is resident around the islands, and breeds on rocky cliffs rather than in bushes (like other Black Noddies), it would seem to be an excellent candidate for full species status. The North Shore is also home to some of the last extant family farms on Oahu with crops of coffee, cacao, eggplant, papaya, pineapple, apple banana, and even scattered shrimp farms with endemic Hawaiian Coot (‘Alae Ke‘oke‘o) and three endemic subspecies: Common (Hawaiian) Gallinule (‘Alae ‘Ula), Black-necked (Hawaiian) Stilt (‘Ae‘o) - surely another prime candidate for splitting - and Black-crowned Night-Heron (‘Auku‘u).  Depending on our timing, we may spend the evening seawatching for the likes of Wedge-tailed Shearwater (‘Ua‘u Kani), Brown Noddy (Noio Koha), and Brown and Red-footed Boobies (‘A). We’ll keep a close eye on the Rare Bird Alerts for any exciting vagrants, which can come from either side of the vast Pacific.  Night in Waikiki.

Day 4: Following breakfast we will head to the airport for a mid-morning flight to Lihue, on the Garden Isle of Kauai. We’ll immediately be struck by the contrast between the urban Honolulu area and this lush and mostly rural island with its small population and extensive forests. Along Kauai’s North Shore we will stop at the famous Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, where the stunning coastline should host Red-footed and Brown Boobies, spectacular Red-tailed and White-tailed tropicbirds, leisurely soaring Great Frigatebirds, and in spring, the majestic Laysan Albatross. Because Kauai is miraculously free of mongooses, native waterbirds are much more abundant here than on any other of the main Hawaiian Islands and we should enjoy up close views of Hawaii’s state bird, the Nene, and the more subdued Hawaiian Duck, which on Kauai persist without the influx of domestic Mallard genes.  Night in Lihue.

Day 5: Today we’ll get an early start to drive up through scenic Waimea Canyon, dubbed the Grand Canyon of the Pacific by the glossy tourist brochures. Soon enough we will arrive in the lush jade valleys of Koke‘e State Park, surely one of the most breathtaking landscapes in all of Hawai‘i. Here we’ll spend much of the day slowly walking along one of the park roads where Kauai ‘Elepaio and ‘Apapane are likely, and the increasingly scarce ‘Anianiau is possible. As of 2026 the last ‘easily’ accessible pair of ‘Anianiau were in pursuit of being captured to help with a breeding program for this species who’s population is in steep decline. The chances of seeing this species without hiking into the depths of the remote forest moving forward are very slim. Some non-native forest birds should be about as well, such as ‘wild’ Red Junglefowl, Erkel’s Francolin, the skulky Japanese Bush Warbler, Red Avadavat, and melodious Chinese Hwamei.  Night in Lihue.

Day 6: This morning will offer a second chance to head into the forest for any accessible missing Kauai endemics and perhaps the rare and beautiful Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush. We’ll search a few waterbird refuges for residents and migrants, and perhaps even have a few hours of R&R (you are on vacation, after all!).  In the afternoon we’ll take a flight over to the Big Island’s west coast and the town of Kona. It’s really amazing how different each Hawaiian island is, and as we find ourselves traveling from one of the oldest of the main islands to the youngest in the archipelago, we’ll see another contrast. In fact, it’s so young that it’s still being built, with near-constant activity from one volcano.  Night in Kona.

Day 7: We’ll awake for our first morning to concentrate on a quest for Hawaii Elepaio. On our way up to the sub-alpine dry forests of Mamanae and Sandalwood, we will bird along Saddle Road, keeping a lookout for the endemic subspecies of Short-eared Owl, and introduced Eurasian Skylark, Chukar, California Quail, Wild Turkey, and Black and Gray francolins. High up on the western slopes of Mauna Kea we’ll search for the critically endangered Palila. There are less than 300 of these endemic birds left on earth, so we will spend much time searching for some of the remaining population. After spending time seeking out our two endemic targets, we will head down the slopes of Mauna Kea and drive to Waikoloa in search of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse. The Kona area is also home to a variety of introduced species such as Red-masked Parakeet, African Silverbill, Saffron Finch, and Yellow-billed Cardinals.  Night in Kona.

Day 8: For our second day on the Big Island we will again drive up the slopes of Mauna Kea, this time heading over to the windward side on the volcano’s northeastern slopes.  We’ll be largely birding at the incomparable Hakalau Forest Reserve, a site that is truly the mecca for Hawaiian Honeycreeper diversity. We’ll spend the day exploring the reserve, a publicly restricted site that is home to many of Hawaii’s endangered plants, native arthropods, and endemic birds. Some of the particularly noteworthy birds here include Hawaii Creepers, gorgeous day-glow orange Akepas, stunning long billed Akiapolaau, Hawaiian Hawk, and Omao (Hawaii Island’s endemic thrush). Our visit should coincide with the blooming period of the ancient Ohia trees, with beautiful I’iwi, Hawaii Amakihi, and Apapane all foraging over the bright red blossoms.  Night in Kona.

Day 9: Today will bring a change of pace, as we embark on a pelagic birding trip from Honokohau Harbour. While onboard we will keep watch for a wide array of seabirds including Black and Brown Noddies, Sooty Tern, Wedge-tailed and Sooty Shearwaters, and Bulwer’s Petrel. Along with this nice suite of expected birds we may encounter some of the rarer local species such as Masked Booby, Hawaiian, Black-winged, Mottled, White-necked and Juan Fernandez Petrels, Newell’s and Christmas Shearwaters, Leach’s or Band-rumped Storm Petrel, all three jaeger species, South Polar Skua, and an array of possible cetacean species. Depending on the group’s energy level after the pelagic, we may have time for a bit of late afternoon birding for a few introduced birds, such as Black Francolin, Indian Peafowl, Red Avadavat, or Lavender Waxbill. We may stop at the Aimakapa Ponds and the Kealakehe Wastewater Treatment Plant where we would encounter a nice mix of wading birds and waterfowl. Dinner will be a celebratory affair, a fitting end to our week and a half long journey across the wonderland that is Hawaii. Night in Kona.

Day 10: Flights home.

2026 Narrative

IN BRIEF We were delighted to return to Hawaii after successful birding adventures in 2025. Although Hawaii is known as the endangered species capital of the world, we were able to track down most of its endemic feathered gems still within reach, from show stopping Iiwi to the charismatic Oahu Elepaio, as well as an array of breeding seabirds. In addition to the endemics, Hawaii is home to a diverse collection of introduced birds from all corners of the world, from gaudy Rose-ringed Parakeets of India to flashy Java Sparrows of Indonesia. It was truly a unique experience to witness some of the rarest birds on Earth, especially in remnants of their native habitat like Hakalau NWR, while learning about the conservation efforts in place to help save them. We experienced blissful weather while on land and mild seas on the pelagic which allowed us obtain ‘emotionally satisfying views’ of 88 bird species. Some of the highlights must include a near full sweep of the remaining 11 accessible honeycreepers, including intimate experience with Akiapola’au on the Big Island, excellent views of fluffy gray Laysan Albatross chicks, stunning close-range Bristle-thighed Curlews on Oahu and extended looks at Hawaiian Petrels on the pelagic trip.

OAHU

Oahu is the third largest of the major Hawaiian Islands, and by far the most developed with the majority of the population living within Honolulu’s city limits. Much of the lowlands have been extensively cleared for various agricultural crops and over grazed by previously free roaming feral ungulates, meaning that very little native forest remains. As a result, the island supports only two species of endemics, the Oahu Amakihi and the Oahu ‘Elepaio. The plight of Hawaii’s endemic forest birds is dire. Of the original known 57 species of endemic Hawaiian Honeycreepers, they are down to less than 14 or so species. Oahu Amakihi seem to have adapted to the altered forests with introduced bird and mammals and the pressures imposed on them by novel avian diseases. In the forests overlooking Honolulu, we spent some time running from one side of the road to the other chasing a singing male Amakihi foraging close by its mate, and eventually we studied a young bird that came into within a few feet of us on an open branch. The road edge was excellent for some introduced species as well, with many Warbling White-eyes, Red-whiskered Bulbuls, and several Red Junglefowl picking through the leaf litter. On the way back down the twisty mountain road we stopped in a very busy urban environment to enjoy great views of nesting White Terns in trees planted in Waikiki. At one point, an adult brought in a small minnow to feed its fluffy hungry chick. This species has only recently begun to breed in Honolulu. Why they chose the most densely populated area on the busiest island remains a mystery, but the local population has now increased to over 3000 birds. Next we stopped near our local hotel property that overlooks Kapiolani Park. In addition to more endemic White Terns and visiting ‘Kolea’, Pacific Golden Plover, the park is home to South American Red-crested Cardinals, flocks of Common Waxbill and Yellow-fronted Canaries from Africa and Common Myna, Spotted and Zebra Doves from Asia. A more metropolitan crowd of birds would be hard to imagine; or as Mandy put it “Oahu is the United Nations of the birding world, where all the continents come together”.

After this we checked Paikō Lagoon Wildlife Sanctuary for our first looks at the endemic “Hawaiian” Black-necked Stilts, showing more black on the neck than the mainland birds we were used to. Next, we traveled a bit to the east, picking up our lunches at Hanapa’a café, which we ate atop cliffs allowing us to spend some time with several Red-tailed Tropicbirds as they flew past us at eye-level. A local non-profit conservation outfit is actively conducting predator controls around their only remaining nesting site on Oahu during the breeding season. As a result, we were able to see one of these mostly pelagic seabirds quietly sitting on its nest in a cave on the cliff enabling us to appreciate its gorgeous long red tail streamers and overall pinkish hue nearly at arm’s length. Just off the coast we watched several humpback whales spouting, with a few even making full breeches out of the sea. Good numbers of these whales winter in this area where food is scarce, but predators are few and far between, increasing the young whale’s chances of survivability.

In the latter part of the afternoon, we turned our attentions to the other endemic forest bird on the island; the Oahu ‘Elapaio. These small monarch flycatchers are very charismatic and often inquisitive, as they bounce around at all levels of the forest with their cocked-up tails. Mandy has been working extensively with this species and her local knowledge of individual territories was invaluable. She walked us through a couple of the relatively low territories along a somewhat rocky trail. After an hour someone was able to spot one, and eventually tracked down a pair of these island endemics as they foraged through the sub-canopy right over our heads. We watched as the pair kept coming back to one specific location in the undergrowth that eventually revealed what they were up to. The adults were bringing back material and starting to work on a new nest. Since the old nest had been blown to bits in recent high wind events, it was great to see the resilience of these tough birds trying their best to survive against all odds. Not a lot of recent census work has been done on this federally endangered species, but the best estimates seem to put the global population at around only 1200 individuals. After our success with both endemics, we elected to head back to the hotel allowing us to avoid the infamous Honolulu rush hour traffic.

Our second day was largely spent exploring around the eastern half of the island, where we took the remarkably scenic and slow coast road around to the island’s northern tip. The first stop was near Makapu’u Point where we overlooked crashing waves, lava shorelines, and Mānana Island which hosts over 20,000 nesting Sooty Terns. We racked up a Booby duo with small numbers of Brown and a plethora of Red-footed all streaming by. Our next stop was at a small estuary on the far eastern side of Honolulu where we quickly located dozens of Hawaiian Coots, a few Common Gallinules and several handsome Black-necked (Hawaiian) Stilts. A couple dark Black-crowned Night Herons were sitting like sentinels looming over the shallows and the unsuspecting fish. We made a brief stop overlooking the Marine Corps Base where a raft of Northern Pintail added more waterfowl to our growing list. We spotted some Black “Hawaiian” Noddies slowly coursing over the short marsh vegetation. This particular subspecies which breeds in the southeast Hawaiian Islands have bright orange feet and a pale grey tail, much different than the other races. These circumstances would make this a great candidate for splitting it off the full species status down the road. A quick stop at a park yielded a small group of Scaly-breasted Munia feeding together on the tops of seeding grasses.

Further to the north we enjoyed amazingly close and lengthy views of a couple Bristle-thighed Curlews near the James Campbell National Wildlife Refuge. This is a rare species globally, breeding only in remote sections of the Yukon-Kuskoquim Delta and Seward Peninsula in Alaska, and wintering over an amazingly large area in the South Pacific. It’s estimated that only a few hundred birds winter in the Hawaiian Islands; the rest continuing to even more far flung tropical beaches to the south. Most birders in the United States see their first Bristle-thighed after slogging up a damp and spongy tundra hill 70 miles north of Nome, Alaska to see one or two pairs, but the birds on Oahu involved a short walk across a golf course and a bunch of birds close enough to actually see their namesake bristle-like feathers at the base of their legs. Not only were the curlews a highlight here, but the monstrous Laysan Albatross that came in with its 7-foot wingspan right over our heads, almost close enough to touch, was a treat for us all. From here we made our way back through the central part of the island to Honolulu where we wrapped up our two days on Oahu and got ready for our morning flight to The Big Island.

THE BIG ISLAND

The Big Island of Hawaii is over six times larger than Oahu, and is the youngest of the islands, with ongoing volcanic activity spouting off every few years. As was the case this year, and we noticed right away the vog (volcanic fog) evident from the currently erupting Kilauea Volcano on the Island’s southeast side. Most of our days around the island, we spent our time on the leeward (dry) side of the island. Here the lowlands are crisscrossed with fresh lava fields, with grassy savannahs dominating as one heads uphill. It’s a stark landscape, with some vistas dominated by reddish-black chunks of jagged rock (named A’a in Hawaiian, possibly due to the sound a traveler would make trying to cross the rough terrain). Around the resorts and small towns that ring the shoreline lush and tropical looking plantings, watered lawns, and all the trappings of a modern commercial society really set them apart from the more barren surroundings.

Our first afternoon was reserved for a trip up on the leeward slopes of Mauna Kea to the area surrounding Waikoloa. We slowly cruised the roadways and had excellent views of some groups of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse foraging on the roadside even before we parked. In close proximity were a pair of Gray Francolin we had initially passed off as more sandgrouse, acting similarly but actually looking quite different. Also feeding in the area were several Eurasian Skylark slowly working their way through the short grasses. Saffron Finches were in flocks around the rather dusty looking baseball fields, which also hosted a familiar to us Northern Mockingbird. Before we climbed up to the higher elevations though we enjoyed a local style lunch at a small café that had several Rosy-faced Lovebirds that joined us for our meal, some even nesting in the eaves of the gas station next door.

From here we drove up Saddle Road making a brief stop to track down a flock of Red Avadavat, noting their beautiful crimson plumages with ample white wing spots. We rose in elevation to over 7,000 feet and up into the forests holding on to the western slope of the Mauna Kea Volcano. Here, tucked in a narrow elevational band (roughly 6700-9000ft) a dry forest containing Sandalwood and Mamane trees persists. Once much more widespread on the island, this forest type is now restricted to less than 25 square miles, with much of the remaining forest heavily impacted by the grazing of introduced goats and sheep and the rooting of feral pigs. 

In an effort to stave off the complete loss of this precious forest the state and federal governments have begun restoration efforts in a part of the forest, including establishing a trail with signage about the plight of the local ecosystem. These efforts have been plagued from the start, with a general lack of funding and support, and some conflicts with local hunting lobbies which often decry efforts at controlling the introduced ungulates. The signature bird species in this habitat is the Palila, a large gray and yellow honeycreeper with a conical finchlike bill that specializes on eating green Mamane seeds (90% of their diet). The most recent thorough population count took place in 2018, and resulted in a population estimate of 1200 birds with a 68% decline over the previous 16 years. Since then, a persistent and deepening drought has held sway over the area, with the forest looking increasingly stressed and dried out with each passing year. It is generally believed that the true current population is a mere fraction of that 1200 number, and with continuing low (or zero) recruitment the situation seems dire. Within just a few minutes of exiting the vehicle we enjoyed multiple views of several Hawaii Amakihi as they foraged in the blossoms, occasionally even going into short burst of song. We heard several Japanese Bush Warblers singing from the undergrowth, but none were bold enough to show themselves. We spent a couple hours looking for the Palila, but never connected with it. The effort was worth it as it showed how these native birds can be there one year, and completely absent the next.

From here we drove down Old Saddle Road which traverses a nice pastoral scene with flowing grasslands and volcanoes looming in the distance. As we began the descent we stopped a few times for some roadside birding, adding exotic species such as flocks of Wild Turkey, stunning male Ring-necked Pheasants, a covey of California Quail and several sizeable Erkel’s Spurfowl. As we entered the mist a distant lump was spotted ahead on a roadside post. We were elated to see a Hawaiian Short-eared Owl (Pueo) motionless staring at us from across the road with its interested yellow eyes. We all relished the close opportunity for photos and watched as it finally took off for a bout of hunting low over the grass and off into the haze.

Our second day on the island was slated for the wet side of the island, on the opposite side of of Mauna Kea that we’d been birding the previous day. On the way a participant expertly spotted a raptor on one of the only snags visible in the forest we were speeding by. We turned around and got eyes on it as we dodged the faster traffic looking for a place to pull over and look. Luckily a large pullout happened to be very near what turned out to be a Hawaiian Hawk, the only native hawk species to the Islands. It gave amazing views, and even some photos, while it sat there observing the grounds for prey in the early rays of the day.

Eventually we made our way to what many consider the finest mile of Hawaiian birding remaining on Earth. Our main goal for the day though was to reach the native forest in the Hakalau National Wildlife Refuge, where large stands of primary upland forest, draped with hanging lichens and bathed in near perpetual clouds remain on the upper windward slopes of Mauna Kea. Despite it being a cloud forest, we spent our time here in overcast skies with occasional sunny patches, without a rain drop in sight. Access to this area is granted by restricted permit, with fewer than 1000 visitors allowed in annually (and the actual number of visitors likely far below that number). The area was once a privately-owned ranch, with cleared fields interspersed with shallow gullies that were left to stands of native Koa and Ohia. The federal government has purchased the old ranch site and some adjacent properties, with an area of roughly 60 square miles now protected and reforestation projects underway.

The 8-mile-long dirt road that winds around the upper slopes of the volcano to reach the refuge is bumpy and slow, passing through overgrazed savannah and dense stands of introduced gorse. Once at the refuge, we stopped at the border to spray down our shoes and walking sticks with alcohol in order to remove any possible traces of an introduced fungus, Rapid Ohia Death, that can lead to the death of local Ohia trees. Task accomplished we drove down to the Fish and Wildlife clearing with an old farm shed and atmospheric outhouses, the only signs of development. As we readied ourselves for the walk, we could hear an actual chorus of native birdsong emanating from the surrounding trees; a stark contrast to the other forested regions that we had traveled through in the islands, where non-native birds decidedly dominate. We spent a magical morning here, enveloped in a world that has virtually vanished from the islands. The bird list wasn’t huge but the entries of new species were all very special. Our first encounter was with a couple Hawaiian Creepers doing their best nuthatch imitations on the trunks and branches of the larger trees. Inquisitive Hawaii Amakihis were constantly bouncing around, and several Omao were expertly plucking fruit from a tree, acting very much like the Solitaires they are descended from. Once we walked down the hill, we were constantly greeted by dazzlingly red I’iwi and deep crimson Apapane at the flowering Ohia trees. Hawaii Elepaios were bold, flicking their wings and tails while crossing the low branches of the trees, at some points stopping to give the group a good once over. Right along the trail was a gorgeous male Kalij Pheasant that could care less we were so close. A rising ‘suweet’ call alerted us to a Hawaii Akepa vocalizing just up ahead. A participant got on it right away and eventually we all saw a yellow individual quite well, as it came down close to the ground, we suspected for the collection of nesting material.

Still having our major target yet to be seen, we decided to have some lunch and see what the afternoon had in store. To our surprise a large bright yellow honeycreeper briefly landed a foot over my head and called out loud, solidifying the fact this was an Akiapola’au. We all stopped mid bite and tracked down this amazing bird, getting the chance to watch it forage along the tree trunks with its over-sized thin decurved upper mandible and chisel-like lower. Having finally seen all our targets well we slowly made our way back down the mountain the same way we came. In the overgrazed lava hills a pair of Chukar was spotted motionless just off the road. Eventually they got up and slowly made their way up the hillside, allowing us to appreciate the intricate patterning of this game bird’s pleasing plumage. 

Our last full birding day on the Big Island was reserved for a completely different environment. Instead of focusing on coastal waterbirds or endemic or introduced landbirds we turned our attentions to the ocean surrounding the islands by taking a seven-hour pelagic trip out from Honokohau small boat harbor. Kona sits on the dry and leeward side of the island, meaning that the waters out from the shore tend to be much calmer than those of the island’s eastern side. We boarded the ship; a comfortable 40-foot craft with seating in the stern and bow, and a covered central cabin. After a briefing from the captain and first mate were soon slowly motoring out of the harbor, with the sun rising at our backs over the peaks of the Big Island.

As is the case in most tropical waters, we found bird diversity to be rather low (in contrast to bird densities in colder, more polar waters), but over the course of the day we tallied several noteworthy species. By far the most common species for the day was Wedge-tailed Shearwater. We found several flocks of these gray/brown and white shearwaters loafing on the water or flying past the bow. Many allowed us close approach, thus giving the participants a good idea of the most common “benchmark” species of tubenose. At one point a white bird was spotted sitting on the water off the bow of the boat. It turned out to be a stunning White-tailed Tropicbird slowly taking off and allowing close approach for our gracious photographers. Throughout the trip we constantly ran into small groups of Red Phalaropes, a normally rare bird this time of year here, all of which were in their gray basic plumages. Another group of smaller birds were acting bat-like as they swept low over the water and upon closer approach revealed themselves to be Leach’s Storm-Petrels replete with white rumps. We checked any buoy that we came into site of. One of them had a stoic Red-footed Booby holding tight while a Masked Booby kept trying to push it off. As we turned around, this pair of boobies flew along with us close along the boat while heading back east into shore. Another buoy had a brown booby sitting atop it we initially thought was of the Brown species. After checking out our photos of the head and underwing we were excited to learn it was actually a Cocos Booby, much rarer and a lifer for most.

Other delightful seabirds we encountered over the miles covered were a couple Hawaiian Petrels, a single Flesh-footed Shearwater, and fleeting Christmas Shearwater with all dark plumage. We encountered a Humpback Whale which come to Hawaii’s waters to give birth and raise their young. Also at one point, we were surrounded by a large pod of Spotted Dolphins that kept pace at the front of the boat. When pulling back into the harbor we had a couple flocks of Red-masked Parakeets fly over the vessel and land in the seeding trees in the parking lot.

We took some time off after the exhausting boat trip before heading out again to search for a couple species we hadn’t seen yet. The area we went is called “the end of the world”, a coastal heritage site where nearly 300 native Hawaiians that were fighting for their traditional belief system died at the hands of the son of King Kamehameha the first who wished to reform their common traditions. The battle was brief, and those holding to the old traditions lost decisively. Shortly thereafter the first waves of missionaries arrived, ushering in the final end to much of the traditional belief structure for the native Hawaiians. Here we succeeded in finding a couple of handsome Lavender Waxbills recently added as Provisional to the ABA list. We were also amazed to have a flock of Burrowing Parakeets slowly flap just over our heads. We were even more excited that they decided to land and feed in a tree just up the road, allowing ample viewing of these stunning small macaws from the deserts of South America’s southern cone. After dinner at the best seafood place in town, we headed back to the hotel for a restful night’s sleep with the waves crashing just outside our windows. 

KAUAI

Kauai is the oldest and farthest west of the main Hawaiian Islands with only 75,000 inhabitants the island feels much less developed, though the traffic along the busier SE corner can still be an issue for daily commuters. In addition to being quieter and much less metropolitan than Oahu the island feels more tropical, with many rivers draining into the ocean, and a more lush and green vegetation. We arrived to the garden isle in the mid-morning, with time to get a little bit organized at our ocean front hotel before heading north to have lunch at a local café. Afterwards we headed a bit to the west for a visit to a large upscale golf course along the coast. We checked the manicured lawns, which were covered with foraging Hawaiian Geese (Nene) and even a rare Snow Goose for a nice size comparison. Western Medowlarks were singing from the verges, and Chestnut Munias allowed super close approach. We drove past the greens, and turned down one of the residential streets, to stumble upon a couple lounging fuzzy gray Laysan Albatross chicks in the front yards of some of the houses. It was simply a surreal scene watching these month-old birds stretch their wings and patiently wait for their parents to return with a belly-full of food to share.

A bit further to the west along the north shore we visited the Hanalei NWR, a somewhat bizarre refuge, in that the goal is seemingly to restore the wetland area to the aquatic Taro farming regimes of the native Hawaiians, rather than to a more natural state. Along a single-track gravel road, we quickly found quite a few coveted Hawaiian Ducks. Unlike other locations on the islands, here the local populations of Hawaiian Ducks on Kauai remain genetically free of extraneous Mallard genes. Although published population numbers for the species estimate roughly 2000 birds, they count the hybrid Oahu birds in the total. A better estimate would limit the population to Kauai, which would put the global count at only a few hundred birds, scattered around the island’s many small wetlands. After having our fill of the array of foraging Hawaiian Stilts, Hawaiian Coots, Common Gallinules and Pacific Golden-Plovers that were also feeding in the small loi ponds, we drove to the Kilauea Point Lighthouse overlook. Here we spent a very enjoyable hour studying hundreds of Red-footed Boobies perched on the vegetated cliffs and soaring out over the ocean. There were even several pairs that were on eggs, incubating the next generation of seafaring individuals. A couple Greater Frigatebird were about too, chasing boobies across the sky in hopes they’d drop their recently obtained food. 

For our full day on Kauai, we departed early and ate a picnic breakfast at athletic fields near the bottom of Waimea Canyon. The ambiance was memorable, replete with local tunes graciously provided by a local joining us. The comparatively lush greens on the ball fields were attracting an impressive number of Pacific Golden-Plovers, Cattle Egrets, Common Myna and both Red-crested and Northern Cardinals. After breakfast we traveled uphill to take in views of the grand canyon of the Pacific, Waimea Canyon with a few tumbling waterfalls and some White-tailed Tropicbirds soaring below the vantage points.

For the rest of the day, we concentrated on Kauai’s endemic forest birds, and they were certainly worth our focus. We were able to locate several flowering Ohia trees, with their dainty little, fluffy flowers attracting brilliantly red Apapane with their white pants. The endemic Kauai ‘Elepaio came to greet us, eventually landing just overhead for great looks. We also succeeded in getting good looks at the Japanese Bush Warbler, a secretive bird very hard to actually see, but was not afraid to sing constantly from an exposed perch. We spent a lot of time searching for the critically endangered Anianiau, but couldn’t locate one so we decided to have a lunch break and come back afterwards to try again. It’s a good thing we did, because within a few minutes of our arrival Mandy heard the Anianiau’s call note. We rushed over and eventually all got looks at what are possibly the last two remaining birds of this species in any easily accessible area to the general public. Who knows if we’ll find them next year at all?

The next morning, we had time to search for one of the hardest of the ABA countable exotics in the Hawaiian Islands; the Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush. This retiring but quite attractive species was introduced over 100 years ago in Kauai, persisting in the non-native lowland forests of the island in small numbers. Fortunately, this year we ran into a small family group that made its way through the scrub at eye level, eventually flying up the hillside and out of sight. We heard the pretty song of the Chinese Hwamei well amongst the cacophony of White-rumped Shamas, but could not get our eyes on one. After our search, we returned to the hotel in the late morning and to checkout before heading to the airport for our respective flights home.

                                                                                                                                                                             -          Jake Mohlmann

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