Chile: Tierra del Fuego to the Atacama Desert

Day 1: The tour begins at 12 noon in the lobby of our Santiago hotel. If flight arrival times allow, we’ll visit some nearby areas for an introduction to the birdlife of Chile’s Central Valley. Night in Santiago.

Day 2: This morning we’ll take the spectacular flight south to Punta Arenas on the northern shores of the Straits of Magellan. The bleak, gray stone buildings of Punta Arenas belie its people, mainly of eastern European descent, who are as warm and hospitable as one finds anywhere, while the rocky coast and rolling grasslands, with their enclaves of European sheep farmers, suggest northern Scotland. Ancient forests of twisted, stunted Nothofagus (southern beech) trees reflect the harshness of the southern temperate climate and contribute to the distinctive flavor of Patagonia, a world apart from the rest of South America. Birding in the vicinity after our arrival will produce a taste of the wealth of waterbirds for which the area is famous, including Imperial and Magellanic Cormorants, Upland Goose, Flying Steamer-Duck, Two-banded Plover, Chilean Skua, and Dolphin Gull plus the tiny and endearing Austral Negrito and the ubiquitous Rufous-collared Sparrow. Night in Punta Arenas. 

Days 3-4: We’ll have two full days to explore the vast, windswept Magellanic region. One day we’ll take the short ferry ride across to Tierra del Fuego, where we should see Magellanic Diving-Petrel, Magellanic Penguin, Southern Giant-Petrel, and perhaps the beautiful Commerson’s Dolphin. One of our main goals on Tierra del Fuego will be to find the enigmatic and dove-like Magellanic Plover (placed in its own family, Pluvianellidae), nesting at this season amid migrant Baird’s and White-rumped Sandpipers. Other breeding shorebirds include the handsome Tawny-throated and Rufous-chested Dotterels. The numerous lakes of southernmost Chile are often alive with waterfowl such as Black-necked Swan, Ashy-headed and Ruddy-headed Geese, Crested Duck, and Yellow-billed Teal. Darwin’s (Lesser) Rheas dot the landscape in many areas, and we’ll plan to visit a small but growing colony of King Penguins. Landbirds include Short-billed and Common Miners, Patagonian Yellow-Finch, and with luck the little-known Austral Canastero and the striking Chocolate-vented Tyrant. Nights in Cerro Sombrero and Punta Arenas. 

Days 5-6: This morning we’ll fly north from Punta Arenas to Puerto Montt, gateway to Chile’s picturesque Lake District. After check-in and lunch at our hotel in Puerto Montt, we will visit a nearby sanctuary protecting a patch of spectacular old-growth temperate rainforest. The huge trees are in stark contrast to the open wilderness of Patagonia, and the forests ring with the calls of two striking tapaculos, the Chucao Tapaculo and the Black-throated Huet-huet. The following day we’ll visit beautiful Chiloé Island. During the ferry ride across Chacao Channel to the island, we’ll have a chance for Magellanic Penguin and Red-legged Cormorant. Pods of Dusky Dolphins will sometimes ride the bow of the ferry. Once on Chiloé, we will visit Caullin Bay, an important wintering area for Hudsonian Godwit. In addition to these boreal migrants, we can also find a great variety of local species including Flightless Steamer-Duck, Black-necked Swan, Yellow-billed Pintail and the rare Snowy-crowned Tern. In the nearby scrub we may also spot a flock of the endemic Slender-billed Parakeet. Nights in Puerto Montt.

Day 7: For our last morning around Puerto Montt, we’ll spend most of our time birding some forested area, seeking in particular the impressive Magellanic Woodpecker and the skulking Ochre-flanked and Magellanic Tapaculos. The supporting cast here includes Austral Parakeet, Des Murs’s Wiretail, White-throated Treerunner, and Black-chinned Siskin. After a morning birding, we’ll fly north to Santiago. Night in Santiago.

Day 8: Central Chile, at the same latitude as southern and central California, has a Mediterranean climate and chaparral-like vegetation known as matorral. Extensive vineyards and the introduced California Quail, California poppy, and towering eucalyptus trees cultivate the illusion that one is in the Northern Hemisphere. To dispel any doubts we’ll spend the day birding our way to the coast at Valparaiso, passing through a variety of habitats where birds include Spot-flanked Gallinule, Wren-like Rushbird, and Rufous-tailed Plantcutter. We’ll make a special effort to see the handsome Many-colored Rush-Tyrant and the endemic White-throated Tapaculo. Along the coast we should see Peruvian Booby, Peruvian Pelican, and the beautiful Inca Tern. Night in Viña del Mar. 

Day 9: Today we’ll make an early departure by boat a short distance offshore into the famous Humboldt Current which, by upwelling like its northern counterpart the California Current, provides a nutrient-rich base that supports a vast seabird population. Up to seven species of albatross are possible including Salvin’s, Buller’s, and Northern Royal, while Pintado (Cape), De Filippi’s (Masatierra) and Westland Petrels, Peruvian Diving-Petrel, and others are regularly seen. To bring us back to earth, we’ll spend the afternoon birding along the coast near our hotel. Night in Viña del Mar. 

Day 10: We’ll make a morning birding trip north along the coast, including a visit to view a colony of Humboldt Penguins on an inshore islet. Species we’ll be looking for in the matorral-covered valleys leading down to the coast along our drive include Giant Hummingbird, Great Shrike-Tyrant, and the endemic Dusky-tailed Canastero and Dusky Tapaculo before our afternoon drive back to Santiago. Night in Santiago. 

Days 11-12: The magnificent High Andes, their snow-capped peaks dominating the eastern horizon, are only a short drive from Santiago and will be our venue for the next two days. We’ll visit two sites with slightly different avifaunas, both in spectacular rugged settings. The birdlife of this region includes the flashy White-sided Hillstar, Gray-breasted Seedsnipe, numerous ground-tyrants, sierra-finches, and ovenbirds (including the endemic Crag Chilia), the comical Moustached Turca (a roadside tapaculo!), huge Andean Condors, and with luck the ultimate shorebird – Diademed Sandpiper-Plover. Nights in Santiago. 

Day 13: A morning flight will take us north, leaving the cultivated Central Valley and heading over the bleak expanses of the Atacama Desert to the coastal town of Arica in the extreme north of Chile. Most of the day will be spent on the leisurely drive from Arica through the oasis-like Lluta Valley up to Putre, a small town nestled in a relatively lush valley at about 11,500 feet. As we climb, birds range from Croaking Ground-Dove and Peruvian Meadowlark in the lowland oases, through Greenish Yellow-Finch and Straight-billed Earthcreeper in the arid, scrubby foothills, to Andean Hillstar and Band-tailed Seedeater, both nesting near our hotel. Night in Putre. 

Day 14: We’ll spend the whole day in and around Putre, taking our time with the almost completely new avifauna and also acclimating to the new elevation. We’ll see that the characteristic European face of central and southern Chile is gone. The terraced alfalfa fields and herds of llamas and alpacas, tended by Indians clad in brightly-colored wool garments, reflect the close cultural ties between northern Chile and the high Andes of Peru and Bolivia. Birds we can expect to see around Putre include Bare-faced Ground-Dove, White-throated Earthcreeper, Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, White-browed Chat-Tyrant, Black-throated Flowerpiercer, and Blue-and-yellow Tanager, and there’s a chance for Ornate Tinamou and Golden-billed Saltator. Night in Putre. 

Day 15: Today will arguably be the highlight of the tour. We’ll spend most of the day visiting Lauca, often acknowledged as the most impressive national park in the Americas. There are no adequate descriptions for the breathtaking (literally!) scenery of the puna plains and bogs below snow-capped volcanoes. The park includes Lake Chungara, at 15,000 feet the highest lake in the world and covered with thousands of birds, among them Silvery Grebe, Puna Teal and Giant Coot. Other birds here include Andean and James’s Flamingos, Puna Plover, Andean Flicker, White-winged Cinclodes, Glacier Finch, Black Siskin, and White-throated Sierra-Finch. Common mammals in the park include the elegant Vicuña and the sleepy Vizcacha, which looks like a cross between a hare, a squirrel, and a kangaroo! After lunch we’ll leave the rarified air of the park and head back down to the oxygen-rich lowlands of Arica. Night in Arica. 

Day 16: We’ll have a full day to spend birding in the lowland valleys and along the coast of northernmost Chile. We’ll especially look for the highly endangered Chilean Woodstar, a tiny hummingbird being steadily exterminated by intensive agriculture. Other species we’ll seek today include Peruvian (White-crested) Elaenia, Oasis Hummingbird, the bizarre Peruvian Thick-knee, Slender-billed Finch, and the very local Rufescent Flycatcher, and there’s always the chance for Peruvian Martin or an unexpected vagrant. The Lluta estuary usually attracts large numbers of migrant and resident waterbirds, including possibly thousands of Elegant Terns and Franklin’s Gulls, as well as Belcher’s and Gray Gulls, American Golden and Semipalmated Plovers, Little Blue Heron and many more. Night in Arica.

Day 17: If our flight to Santiago is early, we will make every effort to arrange a plan for birding and lunch in the middle of the day, although we probably won’t see any new species. The tour concludes in Santiago with plenty of time to connect with evening international flights to the US.

• Chile 2025 Narrative
• 2024 Narrative

Chile 2025 Narrative

IN BRIEF: The 2025 tour of Chile delivered the best of what this remarkable long, narrow country has to offer: from seabirds and steamer-ducks in the south to a host of tapaculos in the center (all of which were seen, rather than simply heard!), and from the Andean specialists of the valleys above Santiago to the tropical hummingbirds and high-altitude flamingos of the north, this trip had it all. Amongst the highlights, the unique Diademed Sandpiper-plover, the comical Moustached Turca, a showy Chucao Tapaculo, the little-known Pincoya Storm-petrel, the Critically Endangered and tragically localized Chilean Woodstar, the majestic Southern Royal Albatross and the charismatic Burrow Parrots. Add to that list of ‘also rans’ as diverse as Mountain Caracara, Peruvian Sheertail, Magellanic Woodpecker, White- and Yellow-bridled Finches, Tawny-throated and Rufous-chested Dotterels,  Lesser Rhea, Thick-billed Siskin, King Penguin and a spectacular showing of wintering terns and shorebirds, and it’s easy to see why this year’s trip was a triumph. 

IN DETAIL:

Day 1 – 4th November

The group met in our comfortable airport hotel at midday and, after a tasty lunch and an introductory meeting, we headed off to our first stop – Batuco Wetlands, a large lagoon north of Santiago. The final couple of miles to the lagoon was slow going – the problem was, there were just too many birds! First, we stopped to admire a Chilean Mockingbird that was singing from wires just about out head; while we watched, several Diuca Finches (the first of many) hopped around in the tree beside us, a Picui Ground-drove (another species that was to prove plentiful) put no a good show, flashing it’s black underwings as it passed by, and, overhead, three Andean Condors soared. A little further along, a stunning male Long-tailed Meadowlawk; then we found two cooperative Burrowing Owls and, slightly further on again, Blue-and-White Swallows, a pair of California Quails, a small group of Shiny Cowbirds and Yellow-winged Blackbirds. Eventually, we made it to the wetland, where we were greeted by more Diuca Finches, Rufous-collared Sparrows, and more Chilean Mockingbirds and Long-tailed Meadowlarks. On the lagoon itself, we found plenty of Red-gartered Coots, Yellow-billed Teal, a Cinnamon Teal and a Cocoi Heron. Carefully scanning of the far side of the lake revealed four Black-headed Ducks – famous for dumping their eggs into the nests of other species – while paying careful attention to the sedge beds close to the viewing platform gave us good views of Many-colored Rush-tyrant and slightly briefer views of Wren-like Rushbird. Several West Peruvian Doves were observed in flight, with one giving good scope-views as it perched out on a dead tree, its blue eye-surround clearly visiting, while an Austral Blackbird gave us one last species to add to the list before we hopped back into the van and back to the airport.

Day 2 – 5th November

It was a short but early skip from our hotel across to the domestic terminal at Santiago airport this morning, from where we caught the first of five internal flights on this tour, this one being to Punta Arenas in Chile’s far south. Arriving in Patagonia late morning, we headed straight to the hotel where we enjoyed a selection of ‘sandwiches’ (far grander than any sandwich would ever dare to be in the English-speaking world; a Chilean sandwich is essentially a full meal between two pieces of bread) before checking into our rooms. The birding started immediately as soon as the group has reconvened in the lobby: on the pier opposite our hotel, we found a flock of Magellanic and Imperial Cormorants, as well as a Dolphin Gull. From here, we headed south, following the western shores of the Magellanic Straight, where we began to pick off a number of southern coastal species, such as the ubiquitous Upland Goose, the slightly scarcer (and exquisitely patterned) Ashy-headed Goose, and the very rare Ruddy-headed Goose, the Christmas-pudding-like Austral Negrito, and masses of Kelp Gulls. We continued, however, heading back inland slightly to an area of pristine Southern Beech forest. The moment we stepped outside the vehicle, we found a Dark-bellied Cincloides, while it didn’t take much of a stroll into the forest to find our first Patagonian Sierra-finches. A little further in, as we reached some patches of mature trees, we found several White-crowned Elaneas, Thorn-tailed Rayaditos, and a striking White-throated Treerunner. Walking back to the vehicle, some rustling in the trees above us alerted us to a pair of Austral Parrots, while the drive away was slow with multiple stops, first for a flock of Black-throated Siskins, and for a juvenile Black-crowned Night Heron and then, finally, for a drive-by view of the ‘Centre of Chile’ movement (yes, this spot in the far south of the continent really is the center of the country – taking into account Chile’s chunk of Antarctica territory, at least!). 

Back along the coast, we stopped at a small peninsular where we founded, along with the by-now familiar usual suspects, a number of Black-browed Albatross, including one that gave a close fly-by; two Southern Giant Petrels, one of which gave an even closer fly-by; an American Oystercatcher and two Magellanic Oystercatchers; and two charismatic Flightless Steamer Ducks. Not to be outdone, landbirds put in a good showing, too, with the pick of the bunch being a Correndera Pipit that showed to within a matter of yards. Then it was time to head back to the hotel, enjoy our dinner and get a good night of rest.

Day 3 – 6th November

We left our hotel and made the short drive to the ferry port, where we boarded the vehicle-carrying vessel and set sail across the famous Magellanic Strait. The weather gods were, relatively speaking, smiling on us, and we experienced a smooth and not-too-cold crossing. The mini cruise built on yesterday’s list of seabirds – as well as more Black-browned Albatrosses and Southern Giant Petrels, we encountered a couple of Chilean Skuas, our first Magellanic Penguins of the tour, and many (sometimes close) Magellanic Diving-petrels. Despite being numerous, this species is still something of an enigma with the breeding grounds as yet undiscovered. 

Making landfall on Tierra del Fuego, we headed north to the green lagoon where, in the company of a group of Baird’s Sandpipers and a single White-rumped Sandpiper, we found what we were looking for: the distinctive portly grey body and bright, bubblegum-pink legs of the Magellanic Plover.

From here, we headed back south, stopping for a delicious if slightly dubiously translated (‘scent of crab’, anyone?) lunch in Porvenir, before we hit the road again for the long drive to the King Penguin colony. The journey there might have been slow and dusty, but getting to see the birds was a doddle: access to private land gave us great views from the seaward side, and we enjoyed views of adult birds as well as fluffy-teddy-bear youngsters. Afterwards, we visited the landowner’s farmstead, where we enjoyed a coffee with a view, overlooking the vast, Patagonian steppes. A Common Miner posed for us outside, and a Big Hairy Armadillo scuttled off down the hillside. Truly an excellent way to end the afternoon.

The day wasn’t over yet, though – several stops on the way to our hotel provided us with a sighting at point-blank range of the often hard to come by Short-billed Miner, close views of Guanacos (which, also common, had thus far been drive-by sightings or distant herds), and a field full of Tawny-throated Dotterels. 

The night was spent in a rustic B&B, with home-cooked Patagonia food and, on our way back to the bedrooms, a view of the Southern Cross in the clear night sky.

Day 4 – 7th November

Setting off from the hotel took a little while, as we paused to enjoy the Austral Thrushes and Long-tailed Meadowlarks in the hotel grounds – common birds in this part of the world, but always worth a moment, especially when they’re showing as well as these were. 

From the hotel, it was a short drive to a nearby gas station to fill the tank. Even here, we added a new bird to the list: a Cinnamon-vented Ground-tyrant had set up home amongst the tanks storing the fuel and put on quite a performance as it hovered in a display flight while the driver finished filling up the vehicle.

It was a short crossing back to the ‘mainland’, with a Magellanic Penguin, a Southern Giant Petrel and a couple of Commerson’s Dophins en route. Also joining us on the crossing where a pair of Patagonian Sierra-finches, which were nesting in the ferry; the adults were onboard, collecting scraps from around the parked vehicles. 

We bit farewell to the sierra-finches as the ferry sailed back to Tierra del Fuego and we headed up onto a nearby plateaux. An unscheduled stop to admire a roadside Least Seedsnipe (one of a pair that was nesting by the side of the road, as it turned out) results us connecting with virtually all of our target species for the morning – in quick succession, we found Two-banded Plover, Rufous-chested Dotterel and Canary-winged (Yellow-bridled) Finch. Remarkable! A little further along the road, we found an extremely showy Magellanic Snipe, as well as a trio of Darwin’s (Lesser) Rheas.

After all of that, it was still only lunchtime. We headed to a nearby residential house-cum-convenience store-cum-restaurant for an lunch of assorted goodies before venturing back into the field. The afternoon was mostly spent undertaking some drive-by birding, with highlights including a male Cinereious Harrier, Austral Canastero, a small flock of White-rumped Sandpipers, good views of a Tawny-throated Dotterel, a trio of Elegant Crested Tinamous and, best of all, a pair of Band-tailed Earthcreepers, a species that has been absent on most recent tours. Then all that was left was to sit back and doze off as we drove the long stretch of road back south to Punta Arenas, back to the same hotel we’d been in the other night, 

Day 5 – 8th November

After a brief post-breakfast foray across the road to enjoy some close views of the nesting Black-faced Ibis and Imperial & Magellanic Cormorants on the old piers opposite our hotel in Punta Arenas, and some cake to celebrate Joe’s 85th birthday, we headed to the airport. It was time to start our journey back north, making the (relatively) short hop to the Puerto Montt. Here, we found ourselves amongst lush, green pastures and stands of temperate forest – a world away from the windswept steppes of the far south.

A short drive from the airport, we entered the Lahuen Ñadi Natural Monument. Along the track, we located a Chilean Flicker, with several small parties of Slender-billed Parakeets flying by as we watched it. A little deeper into the forest, we started the hunt to our first tapaculos of the tour – not hard to hear, but notoriously difficult to spot. First up was the Magellanic Tapacula – a ping-pong-ball-sized mass of black feathers that could seemingly pass from one side of the track to the other without trace. It took some time but eventually one showed itself, creeping high up into a tree from where it sang briefly.

Next we paused for views of several Tufted Tit-spinetails, a Fire-eyed Diucon and two Green-backed Firecrowns.

Then we set about tracking down two of Chile’s most enigmatic species – the Chucao Tapaculo and the Black-throated Huet-huet. We could hear several of both not far from the track but, as is typical, neither were showing. Eventually, we caught glimpses of a huet-huet before it disappeared into the tangled brush. Waiting for it to reemerge, we heard rustles in the vegetation behind us – and then, suddenly and unexpectedly, a second bird crossed the road besides us, pausing briefly as if to give us all a good view before it, too, scuttled off to join the first bird.

All that was left now was the Chucao Tapaculo. We located one calling close to the track. It made one brief pass, just visible. Then another. Then one more, showing a little more of itself. Eventually, curiosity got the better of the bird and we obtained full-body views. Then it came back for a second peek at us, then a third. Each time the bird came back into view, we were treated to better and better views until eventually we were watching the bird sitting out in the open on a mossy stump! An incredible end an intense and productive few hours of birding.

Day 6 – 9th November

We were woken this morning by the guttural chattering of the dozens of Black-faced Ibises that were present around our hotel. We couldn’t linger with them, however, as we had a ferry to catch. 

When we reached the port at Pargua – from where we could sail to the island of Chiloé – we found a flat calm ocean. Perfect, we hoped, for picking up some seabirds on the calm crossing. None was more hoped for than the recently described and range-restricted Pincoya Storm-petrel, known only from the coastal waters around Chiloé. It was a long shot, however – seldom do the petrels drift this into the narrow stretch of water at the north end of the bay and, indeed, the species had not been recorded on the tour previously. Conditions couldn’t have been better, though – the water was like a mill pond. We set up the scope on the top deck of the small ferry and – bingo! A storm-petrel! One more, two more, dozens of them! In the end, we logged around 50 of these tiny, oceanic wonders, along with dozens of Magellanic Diving-petrels and Pink-footed and Sooty Shearwaters.

Driving along the west side of the island, a small-dog-sized mammal was crossing the road in front of us – a Pudu! An elusive, small deer, and one of the two animals (the other being the Andean Condor) to appear on Chile’s coat of arms. This was, not surprisingly for those who have looked for them, the first time we have seen them on the tour.

We arrived in the picturesque bay of Puñihuil, from where we were taking a boat trip out to the nearby penguin colony. Early sightings included Blackish Oystercatchers, several pairs of Kelp Geese and close views of Chiloé Flightless Steamer-ducks; then we found out first penguins – first, a Magellanic, slip-sliding its way down the rocks into the water, and then a mixed group of Magellanic and Humboldt, hangout out on the rocks; above them, a color of Red-legged Cormorants added a splash of color. On the way back to shore, we were called over by another boat who were watching two Marine Otters wrestle with a huge Chilean Eel! After which it was back to dry land and to the restaurant were some of the group also wrestles with a lunch of Chilean Eel and fries.

On our way back to catch the ferry back to the mainland, we stopped at Caulín Estuary, where were found hundreds of Black-necked Swans, Whimbrels and Brown-hooded Gulls, as well as a Willet and several Flying Seamer-ducks. 

Conditions were anything but millpond-like on the way back, as a storm, complete with lightning, whipped up – no seabirds, but the day had already delivered above and beyond, and we were happy to get back to the hotel without getting wet.

Day 7 – 10th November

We headed out early again this morning, east of Puerto Baras towards the impressive volcano of Osorno. Heading up the slopes, we passed through extensive misty woodland, where several stopped revealed sough after birds, including a White-throated Hawk and an Austral Pygmy Owl! And then, as if yesterday’s mammal luck hadn’t been enough, another Pudu shot across the road in front of us.

Heading higher, we reached an area of open Southern Beech forest, where we set out to search for Magellanic Woodpecker. At first, nothing but, just as we were about to call it quit, one called back before a pair came in to investigate what we were up to. The birds – the red-headed male and curly crested female – gave phenomenal views. As we watched them, a second woodpecker made its presence known – a Striped Woodpecker in the treetops! 

That could have been in for the day, but we decided to try for a bonus bird. Climbing higher up the volcano, visibility in the fog dropped for just a matter of yards – surely it was going to be impossible to find out target bird in this? Not so when the target bird lands at your feet looking for scraps! Which is exactly what Orsono’s Yellow-bridled Finches did. Finally – and it really was finally if we were to get back in time for lunch and to catch our flight – we stopped to enjoy a Buff-winged Cincloides, which was as confiding at the finches.

Then it was back down to Puerto Baras for lunch and off to the airport for a mid-afternoon flight to Santiago, where we sent the night. 

Days 8 – 11th November

We started today crawling towards the coast along central Chile’s occasionally horrifically clogged roads. Our first port of call was the Maipo estuary – one of Chile’s most important rivers, and one we could see at several points along its flow over the next few days. 

Adjacent to the main nature reserve, we birdied along an unremarkable stretch of track next to a small ditch. In that ditch, though, lived a couple of Black Rails – one of the most notoriously difficult-to-see birds out there. Our luck continued to hold, though, as one of the rails strutted around in the open (albeit briefly), allowing the entire group great views. While we were watching the rail, a Dusky Tapacula was singing – and, when we looked for it, showing – in the buses behind the ditch, while a White-tailed Kite was overhead, some Grassland Yellowfinches were on the edge of the farmland, and a Rufous-tailed Plantcutter and several Spectacled Tyrants wee in the scrub. A little further along, we found a Ticking Doradito, before we headed to the reserve itself where we found plenty of shorebirds, gulls and terns on the estuary, including our first Elegant Terns and Grey Gulls.

After lunch, we visited an area of dry, coastal scrub were we enjoyed close views of a pair of Moustached Turca, two White-throated Tapaculos and a Giant Hummingbird.

Finally, before driving north to our hotel in Viña del Mar, we stopped at a small wetland where we had great views of some Lake Ducks as well as White-tufted Grebes and a family of Yellow-billed Pintails.

Days 9 – 12th November

The Pacific Ocean can be anything but pacific, as we found out on our stomach-churning pelagic! It was, however, worth braving the swell for the number and quality of birds seen, including tens of Peruvian Pelicans, four species of albatross – Black-browed, Buller’s, Salvin’s and Northern Royal – and Andean Storm-petrel. Like the Pincoya Storm-petrel, the Andean Storm-petrel was only recently discovered and, although it’s nests have yet to be found, it is known it breeds in the High Andes above Santiago.

While out on the water, we received news that a partial strike by LATAM pilots had caused our Sunday morning flight to be cancelled. The best alternative was a flight on Saturday afternoon. That meant cutting short our time in Valparaiso, turning a planned two-night stay into a single night. We were, however, in a strong position – tomorrow was designed as a mop-up day for anything we’d missed. We hadn’t missed anything, so we made the call to leave Valparaiso early and head back to Santiago, where we could shift out two-day Andes itinerary forward by a day.

Days 10 – 13th November

Today, we headed into the High Andes, a real change of habitat from the lowland birding we’d been doing for the last few days. We set off early, heading to the high-altitude ski resorts around Farellones. On our way up, we stopped at one of the hairpin bends to look for an elusive endemic species: the Chilean Tinamou. First there was nothing then, after some time waiting (distracted by a variety of other birds, such as a Giant Hummingbird and several Moustached Turcas), several tinamous began to call, then… some more waiting; but then, there! One in view, and at close range, too. A super start to the day.

A little further up the chicanes, we stopped for another Chilean endemic; one named after the country itself, no less: the Crag Chilia. Keeping it company in the general area were several Black-winged Ground Doves, Mourning and Band-tailed Sierra Finches, several Moustached Turcas and a little further uphill, a Sharp-billed Canastero and our first of many Rufous-banded Miners.

A little further along, in a grassy valley, we found several White-browed Ground-tyrants, Buff-winged Cincloides and large flocks of Yellow Finches; overhead, a pair of Black-chested Buzzard-eagles tussled with a small group of Andean Condors and an inquisitive Mountain Caracara gave a point-blank fly-by.

A little higher again (we were pushing 3,000 m/10,000 feet at this point), we found a smorgasbord of ground-tyrants – more White-browed, but also Black-fronted and Ochre-naped. We also enjoyed some close (think ‘around our feet’ sort of close) Gray-hooded Sierra Finches and Rufous-banded Miners.

After lunch, we made a brief roadside stop for White-sided Hillstar – with success in the form of a dapper male – before continuing back up to 3,000 m, where we located a real high-altitude specialist, the Creamy-rumped Miner.

Day 11 – 14th November

For our second day in the High Andes, we headed to the southern of the two major valleys that lead up from Santiago, following the River Maipo to its high reaches, before we branched off to follow the considerably clearer waters of the River Yeso. Our mission was clear: to head directly to the thermal springs at the head of the valley, where we hoped to find the sought-after Diademed Sandpiper-plover. Not too far along the Yeso Valley, however, we (as usual) got distracted and made a roadside stop to check the river. Bingo! A pair of Torrent Ducks. High on many of the group’s wish lists, we enjoyed prolonged scope views of the pair as they rested on rocks and zipped across the rough water like clockwork mice.

We continued up the valley, pausing only for a bathroom stop – but even here, we couldn’t help but add a new species to the list. Amongst the large flock of Greater Yellow Finches that were in the field behind the bathrooms, we found a Rufous-named Ground-tyrants. Strikingly grey-and-white, scope views revealed the distinctive and eponymous reddish nape. 

Almost at the thermal springs, having made it past the cheery security guard who manned the entrance to the track, we had just one more bird to add before we got to the sandpiper-plover: a Black-billed Shrike-tyrant, which lived up to its name by catching and demolishing a lizard while we watched it.

Finally, we made it to the hot springs – and we didn’t even have to leave the vehicle to see out target bird; there, at close to 10,000 feet above sea level, by the side of the track, a female Diademed Sandpiper-plover watching over her tiny chick. We enjoyed point-black views of these approachable birds as they fed and roosted by the saline pools. 

Our bonus bird today as a long shot. Both Stephen and Quillen had, in the past, seen Thick-billed Siskin along a particular stretch of the track down. This species is notoriously difficult to catch up with being, so conventional wisdom has it, nomadic through the high mountains, never settling in the same place year on year. But whatever, it wasn’t even 11am yet, we had time to try; and would you believe it? Four Thick-billed Siskins! What a finale to the day.

From there, it was a smooth ride back down the valley, stopping on the way for a good lunch before heading back to the hotel for our final night in Santiago. 

Day 12 – 15th November

With a bonus morning in Santiago due to the change in our flight schedule, and having cleared up on all of the likely local species, we decided to head a little further afield; 90 minutes south of Santiago, crossing the border into the next region along, we found our target species in an unlikely location – there, below an imposing industrial bridge and just across the river from a small hydroelectric power plant, a small colony of Burrowing Parakeets. We watch these magnificent macaw-like birds for some time, enjoying views of them in flight, perched, and visiting their burrows. Mission complete (and with a write-in for the list), we headed back to Santiago where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch and hotel checkout before heading to the airport for a mid-afternoon flight to Arica and a night in the hot, dry north. 

Day 13 – 16th November

Birding began as soon as we set foot outside the hotel, with an Oasis Hummingbird around the hotel planters and Andean and Belcher’s Gull on the beach. 

From the hotel, we headed to the Lluta estuary, which was packed full of birds. Landbirds included Peruvian Meadowlark and Slender-billed Finch, while on the estuary there were thousands of Franklin’s Gulls along with smaller (but still impressive) numbers of Grey Gulls, Belcher’s Gulls and Andean Gulls. Shorebirds included American Oystercatchers and a Least Sandpiper, while the assorted other species consisted of Black-crowned Night-herons (including several strikingly dusky-breasted birds), Puna Ibis, Greater Yellowlegs and Common Gallinule. Oh, and Turkey Vultures, lots of Turkey Vultures.

A little further north, we stopped briefly to admire an impressive roost of Black-bellied Plovers, Turnstones and (mostly) Sanderlings – when they were disturbed from the beach, they put on an impressive aerial show, while a nearby area of wasteland provided the unlikely setting for several flyover Peruvian Terns.

From our start at sea level, we drove up… and up… and up… until eventually we made central Chile’s mountain birding look like medium altitude stuff. En route, we found Straight-billed Earthcreepers, Greyish Miners and, perhaps most excitingly of all, Andean Ibis, while around the hotel we located an exciting mix of birds, including Creamy-winged Cincloides, Canyon and Dark-winged Canasteros, Yellow-billed Tit-tyrants, White-browed Chat-tyrants, Cinereous Conebills, Black-throated Flowerpiercers and Blue-and-yellow Tanagers. 

The day concluded in Putre with an amazing sunset and a night at 3,500 m (11,400 ft).

Day 14 – 17th November

Drive up even higher from our hotel, we stumbled across several roadside Ornate Tinamous. As we reached the altiplano, we found a Puna (Lesser) Rhea as well as several herds of vicuñas, the wild ancestor of the alpaca.

Further on – and higher up – again, we found a large, shallow lake packed with flamingos – Chilean, Andean and James’s – as well as passerine delights such as White-winged Cincloides, Puna Ground-tyrant, Greenish Yellow-finch and Black Siskin.

Reaching peak altitude –  4,640 m (15,223 ft) – we arrived at Chungara Lake, where surprise bird was a vagrant Black Skimmer, along with the more expected Andean Lake Ducks, Andean Gulls, Giant Coots, Puna Teal and Silvery Grebes. A little further on, we found the hard-to-pronounce but beautiful-to-look-at D’Orbigny’s Chat-tyrent, as well as enjoying spectacular views of the active volcanos that line the Chilean-Bolivian border.

Working our way back down toward Putre, we found White-fronted Ground Tyrants, Puna Ibis, Buff-breasted Earth-creepers, Plain-mantled Tit-spinetails, Black-hooded Sierra-finch and Glacier Finches, as well as a busy colony of Andean Flickers and two hard-to-spot Rufous-bellied Seedsnipes.

We finished the day with some nocturnal birding, scoring Band-winged Nightjar and Lesser Horned Owl – a fine end to a great day.

Day 15 – 18th November

It was a cold start in Putre, and we headed downhill quickly, first stopping at a mid-altitude village where we found a selection of hummingbirds, including Peruvian Giant Hummingbird, Andean Hillstar and Oasis Hummingbird, as well as Black-throated Flowerpiercer, Cinereous Conebills and Band-tailed Seedeaters. In the distance, a Peruvian Pygmy-owl was calling. We lured it closer and enjoyed great views of it sitting on and calling from a prickly pear cactus. As we drove into the village, a group of 20 or so Mountain Parakeets flew up from the roadside before perching in some nearby trees – just rewards for those who missed the specs flying overhead the previous evening. 

From here, we continued down into the Lluta valley, where we once again located Andean Ibis as well as ‘the usual selection’. Lunch was taken at a local restaurant, where we enjoyed delicious Chilean food, before we called back in at the Lluta estuary (much the same as the other day, with the addition of a Least Sandpiper) and then a rocky area just south of Putre, where a spectacular gathering of birds included hundreds of Elegant Terns and Turnstones and, amongst them, a single Common Tern and several Surfbirds respectively. An unexpected twist came in the form of a smartly dressed gentleman carrying a box. ‘Are you looking for birds?’, be asked, ‘because I’ve got an interesting bird in this box that was found in a restaurant’. Thinking it was a joke and entirely expecting a pigeon or a gull at best, or an empty box at worst, he opened the lid to reveal a Markham’s Storm-petrel! Locals, it turns out, are on high alert for disorientated birds found around the town, and this bird had been rescued and was being returned to the sea.

Day 16 – 19th November

Our final full day of birding in Chile was spent searching for one of the world’s most endangered species: the Chilean Woodstar. This was emphasized when we arrived at our usual site to find the area had been closed for ‘agricultural improvement’ and, with it, the likely loss of a significant chunk of the population of these diminutive hummingbirds. Better news came from our second site, in the next valley along, where we around at least two males and a female.

In the afternoon, we searched nearby scrub for landbirds, flushing a Tschudi’s Nightjar in the process, followed by a trip to a nearby reservoir, where we added Slaty-colored Coot to the list.

We finished the day in style, with a visit to a ‘hummingbird garden’, carefully maintained by a local family, where we found Oasis Hummingbirds and Peruvian Sheartails, including a number of stunning, long-tailed males.

Day 17 – 20th November

After an early flight back to Santiago, a number of the group headed off to catch flights home, while the remainder visited the Bicentenary Park in central Santiago. This small park gave us point-blank views of many of central Chile’s common birds, including Yellow-winged Blackbirds and a Rufous-tailed Plantcutter, as well as Spot-flanked Gallinules and two confiding Plumbeous Rails.

From Patagonia to the Altiplano, this trip offered up a host of habitats, biozones and birds. It’s no wonder, then, that 31 species were mentioned collectively by the group as being in individuals top five for the trip. These ranged from iconic species, such as King Penguin, Andean Condor, Magellanic Plover and Magellanic Woodpecker to more personal experiences, such as the swirling flocks of Sanderling and the bustling colony of Andean Flickers. In the end, though, it was the Diademed Sandpiper-plover that took the group’s top spot, followed by Moustached Turca and Chilean Woodstar.

-Stephen Menzie

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2024 Narrative

IN BRIEF: The spectacular country of Chile rewarded us this year with a long list of wonderful birds and impressive scenery. It’s hard to choose the best memories, but a short list would include the group of King Penguins packed on a windy Tierra del Fuego beach, a pair of Magellanic Plover on the shore of an emerald lake, a group of Lesser Rheas running together with Guanacos on the Patagonian steppe, the comic Moustached Turca running on the barren slopes of the impressive Andes while a group of Condors soar high in the sky, a stunning Chucao Tapaculo singing in the open in the beautiful Nothofagus Forest, so many albatrosses of no less than four species following our boat during our pelagic trip, the waterbirds concentration on the Chungara lake and at the Lluta estuary… and the list goes on!

We experienced fantastic weather all along the tour, and the entire trip went very well with wonderful blue skies in the Andes and a quiet sea during our pelagic trip off Valparaiso. Beside excellent birding and stunning sceneries we also experienced great Chilean food and had a chance to try several of the local specialties paired with well-known wines and fantastic artisanal beers.

An ebird report illustrated by many photos taken by the participants can be consulted here: https://ebird.org/tripreport/291729

IN DETAIL: After a first meeting and our first lunch together, our trip began with a sunny and pleasant afternoon at the Batuco lake only one hour drive from our Santiago hotel. Previous winter has been very rainy, and the water level was high and very good for waterbirds breeding. We had many close views on families of recently hatched chicks of Red-gartered and Red-fronted Coots, and found plenty of other waterfowl species, such as Red Shoveler, Yellow-billed Pintail, Cinnamon Teal, Cocoi Heron or Lake Duck. We also found five Black-headed Ducks, a usually elusive species and only parasitic duck in the World!

We also had very close views on a few of the beautiful Many-colored Rush-tyrant (in Spanish this bird is called “Siete Colores”, or Seven Colors), and even saw two Stripe-backed Bitterns (a third one was singing from the dense reeds)!

Our visit to the Chilean Patagonia began with a morning flight to Punta Arenas, more than 1,300 miles south of Santiago. Arriving there at mid-day, we had a picnic lunch and immediately started birding in the Punta Arenas vicinity. We stopped at the “Tres Puentes” wetland just at the edge of town, where birds are really used to people and can be seen at very short distances. We had amazing sights of the beautiful Magellanic Oystercatcher, a White-tufted Grebe swimming a short distance away, Flying Steamer-duck, a pair of Crested Duck, a family of Coscoroba Swan with young chicks, a few Black-faced Ibises, and dozen of the stunning Upland Goose were grazing in the nearby fields.

We then headed south along the coast, driving through the dramatic landscape of Chile’s Patagonia region: forests of stunted trees tormented by the wind, grasslands covered by flocks of Upland Geese, and snowcapped mountains dominating the background. Even if we had almost no wind, we were able to seabird from the shore (or from the bus!) enjoying great numbers of Southern Fulmar, a few Black-browed Albatross and Southern Giant Petrels, and even a few White-chinned Petrels. Birding along this coastal road was very productive. Waterfowl took the prize, with great views on both Flightless (Fuegian) Steamer-Ducks and Flying Steamer-Ducks, excellent views of at least 10 of the rare and threatened Ruddy-headed Goose, a flock of the lovely Ashy-headed Goose, and a large group of the smart South American Tern. We also had cracking views on a group of perched Austral Parakeet! And a stop in a patch of old Nothofagus forest was very productive too, finding two Austral Pygmy-Owls mobbed by numerous Austral Thrushes, White-crested (Chilean) Elaenias, Thorn-tailed Rayaditos and Patagonian Sierra-Finches. We finally stopped by an old peer where a few hundreds Imperial Shags together with a few Magellanic Cormorants were breeding, before we returned for dinner and a good sleep.

On our second day in the far south of Chile, we crossed the near-mythical Strait of Magellan on the daily ferry between Punta Arenas and Porvenir. Crossing the Strait of Magellan reminded us of the amazing courage of Magellan and his men who sailed in these inhospitable seas for the first time! We had a pleasant crossing, finding a few Black-browed Albatross, Southern Giant-Petrels, White-chinned Petrels and Chilean Skuas, as well as a few dozen Magellanic Diving-Petrels and a handful of Wilson’s (Fuegian) Storm-Petrels. Now, the ‘best’ bird of the crossing was doubtless an adult Gray-headed Albatross landed on the water that we saw and photographed very well! An extremely rare bird here, even if they are breeding only (for an albatross) a few hundreds of kilometers from here! We also had two Sei Whales and a few Dusky Dolphins. Once in Tierra del Fuego, we drove to ‘Laguna Verde’ north of Porvenir for a pleasant walk along the lake, blessed by a beautiful sky and no wind! We had no chance here with the Magellanic Plover, but had great views on Patagonian Yellow-Finch, Common (Patagonian) Miner, Scale-throated Earthcreeper, Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant and the lovely Austral Negrito. We then drove along Bahía Inútil to visit a colony of King Penguins. About 20 of them were waiting for us, including a few chicks born the last spring, and we really enjoyed watching these charismatic birds in the beautiful landscape of Tierra del Fuego. On the way to our comfortable hotel in Cerro Sombrero, we also did a stop to enjoy close views on a few displaying Short-billed Miner, another specialty of the Island. 

After a night in the small and isolated village of Cerro Sombrero, we traveled through the northern part of Tierra del Fuego towards Primera Angostura to cross back the Magellanic Straight. On the way, we spotted a pair of the beautiful Chocolate-vented Tyrant, and during the crossing we had great looks at a few Commersson’s Dolphins. Once on the continent, we birded the Patagonian steppe having great views on a few stunning Tawny-throated Dotterels including a pair with two chicks, a pair of the lovely Least Seedsnipe also with young chicks, the fantastic White-bridled (Canary-winged) Finch, Austral Canastero, Magellanic Snipe and more! We even found a group of four Elegant-crested Tinamou, a species increasing its range southwards and who recently colonized this part of Patagonia.

We also admired the charismatic Lesser (Darwin’s) Rhea grazing together with a few sheep. At Laguna Los Palos, we found two pairs of the unique Magellanic Plover, a superb bird with pink bubble gum legs, only species in his family. We had time to walk close to the shore and enjoy fantastic views of this beautiful bird; two birds were frenetically scratching the sand in search of food and really didn’t paid attention to us! At the same spot we also had nice views on wintering Baird’s Sandpiper, several Two-banded Plovers, and our first Cinereous Harrier. After a fantastic birding day, it was now time to drive to Punta Arenas for a last night in Southern Patagonia.

After our flight to Puerto Montt, we birded the beautiful Nothofagus forest of the Lahuen Ñadi National Monument and its surroundings. We had fantastic view on a close Chucao Tapaculo coming to sing right in the open and just a few meters from us! We also found a few Thorn-tailed Rayaditos, White-crested (Chilean) Elaenias and Green-backed Firecrowns, got a great view on an Austral Pygmy-Owl, Patagonian Sierra-Finches, a very cooperative White-throated Treerunner, a pair of the unique Des Murs Wiretail, a dull but cute Patagonian Tyrant and the lovely Fire-eyed Diucon. After birding in the impressive forest speckled with red by the Notro trees in bloom, we headed to our hotel in Puerto Montt.

We spent the next day on Chiloe Island. After crossing the Chacao straight, and finding our first Red-legged Cormorants and Peruvian Pelicans, we headed towards Caullin Bay where we were welcomed by 300+ Hudsonian Godwits! The mudflats of the protected bays of Chiloé Island are the main wintering grounds of the Alaskan population of this species, and it’s a treat to see such number of this amazing migrant! Between the numerous godwits we also found a dozen of Red Knots, as well as some Whimbrels and Magellanic Oystercatchers. Dozens of Black-necked Swans were also feeding on sea kelp just on the shore. We then headed towards the Puñihuil Islets, where we had a short boat ride to visit a small penguin colony. We had fantastic views on Magellanic and Humboldt Penguins seen side-by-side (both are breeding here), the superb Red-legged Cormorant on their nests, a dozen of Kelp Goose whose sexual dimorphism is extreme (female being by far more beautiful than the uniform white male) and several Flightless (Chiloe) Steamer-duck (not described yet, even if very different from the ones seen in Patagonia), Black-faced Ibis and Blackish Oystercatchers. For lunch we had an excellent fried merluza (hake) and fries at a local restaurant. On the way back to Puerto Montt, we did a few more birding stops, having great views on Ochre-flanked Tapaculo, Grass Wren, Dolphin Gulls and Dark-bellied Cinclodes. After a diner at our hotel, most of us went back to Nahuel Ladi, where we had fantastic views on a stunning Rufous-legged Owl. What a fantastic way to end our day!

We spent our last morning in the Lake District at Nahuel Ladi, birding the forest of Nothofagus and ‘Patagonia Cypress’ or Alerces Fitzroya cupressoides. There we had more views of the common inhabitant of these forests seen the previous days, but also added excellent views on Striped Woodpecker, Chilean Pigeon and Slender-billed Parakeet (our first Chilean endemic). The whole group experienced a “Tapaculo quest”, i.e. patiently waiting in or in front of dense vegetation in the hope of seeing one of these secretive species attracted by the playback of its song. After several tries, we had great views on a Magellanic Tapaculo and on the charismatic Black-throated Huet-huet! Now, after a wonderful morning, we learned that our afternoon flight was canceled because of a 3 hours national airport strike. Most of the afternoon flights this day were canceled, but luckily, our ground agent has been able to find us seats on a flight finally departing at 19:00, only delaying us by 4 hours. Having some extra time in the Puerto Montt area, we went to a popular restaurant where we enjoyed a delicious local dish, the Curanto, a specialty from Chiloe Island mixing seafood, sausage, smoked pork, chicken, potatoes! Sumptuous!

After a week birding Patagonia and the Lake District we enjoyed some warmer temperature in Central Chile! We spent a full day birding the coast around San Antonio, one of the main Chilean harbors. Our first stop was the Maipo estuary, one of the most important coastal wetlands in Central Chile. This is a very dynamic wetland, whose topography changes under the influence of the river and the ocean. We had great views on a flock of 600+ Black Skimmers mixed with Franklin’s Gull, four Snowy-crowned and a few Elegant Terns, a Collared Plover, a few Ticking Doraditos and Spectacled Tyrants, a lovely pair of Tufted Tit-Tyrant and great views on several males of Rufous-tailed Plantcutter. From the dense vegetation we also heard a few Black Rails, but they never came in the open!

For lunch we enjoyed some delicious swordfish, with a stunning view on the rocky shore and a displaying pair of Seaside Cinclodes. In the afternoon our birding took us to a remnant patch of native vegetation where the succession of new birds seemed to be endless! Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail, Dusky-tailed Canastero, Black-chinned Siskin, Grassland Yellow-Finch, Austral Blackbirds and more appeared successfully and gave us very good views. But the star of this location was our first Chilean Giant Hummingbird, the largest hummingbird in the world, feeding on the beautiful flowers of the ‘Chagual’ or Puya chilensis. The uniform dark gray Dusky Tapaculo did his best to attract our attention, singing on the top of dead branch for a while (very unusual for that secretive species!), but his close relative White-throated Tapaculo stayed hidden in the dense vegetation!

The Humboldt Current, running along the Chilean coast from South to North, attracts birds from all over the world. White-chinned Petrel that breed in New Zealand, Jaegers that breed in Alaska, Black-browed Albatrosses that breed on Sub-Antarctic islands, and Fulmar that breed in Antarctica; all gather here with the resident species to feed on these productive waters. Obviously, sailing on the Humboldt Current is an obligation for those who want to see some of these fascinating seabirds, and we organized our pelagic trip of Valparaiso. Our trip out on the water was absolutely wonderful and very successful! Leaving the harbor, we first saw some coastal species including Peruvian Pelicans, Inca Terns or a few migrating Franklin’s Gull. Once far from the shore the truly pelagic species began to appear, including Salvin’s and Black-browed Albatrosses, Peruvian Diving-Petrels, Northern Giant Petrels, White-chinned Petrels, Sooty and Pink-footed Shearwaters and the graceful Andean Storm-Petrel. Among the numerous seabirds attracted by the chum, we spotted at least three Buller’s Albatrosses, six Northern Royal Albatross, and at least four Westland Petrels, all coming very close to our boat. A Sabine’s Gull and a Parasitic Jaeger also flew by.

Back on land and after a nice meal at the harbor restaurant, we drove back to the hotel for a deserved rest. In the evening, we did a bit of birding on the coast, enjoying some very close views on breeding Inca Terns, but also Peruvian Boobies, Guanay Cormorants or Ruddy Turnstones. A group of 100+ Southern Sea Lions added smell to the great sights.

We had another full day to explore the coast, visiting a few more wonderful places, beginning with the rocky shore near the coastal village of Cachaga, where we had great views on a Humboldt Penguin colony on a small island close to the shore. We found 100+ Humboldt Penguin, but also Peruvian Pelicans, a colony of Neotropic Cormorant, Blackish Oystercatcher, and we even found two of the cute Marine Otter! On the beach, we spotted a few Snowy Plovers.

That morning, we also visited the beautiful Zapallar Bay, where the unique native vegetation not only pleased the botanists of the group, but also attracted a few Fire-eyed Diucons, Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetails and the sought-after Great Shrike-Tyrant. After a lunch of delicious fried ‘cheese and shrimps’ empanadas in Zapallar, we visited the Ligua Estuary where we had great views on several displaying Band-tailed Sierra-Finch, a very responsive White-throated Tapaculo and our first Moustached Turca, a very charismatic tapaculo!

After three days on the coast, we spent the following two in the impressive Andes dominating the city of Santiago. Both days were absolutely fantastic, with lots of great birds seen in the most scenic backgrounds. On our first day, near the ski resort area of Farellones and La Parva, we first stopped at a mid-elevation location and were rewarded by a great view on a lovely Chilean endemic: the Crag Chilia. One of this superb bird came close to us, attracted by the playback of his call, giving us great opportunity to take pictures. Continuing our way toward higher elevations, we successfully found more and more species, including Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant and Rufous-banded Miners, Greater Yellow-Finch or Gray-flanked Cinclodes. In the poplar trees on the roadside, we spotted two of the beautiful Lesser Horned Owl. Above us, a few Andean Condors were beginning to soar high in the sky, and we will have several great views of these masters of the sky. At a higher elevation, the species seen earlier in the morning were replaced by White-browed and Black-fronted Ground-Tyrants, Creamy-rumped Miners, Black-winged Ground-Doves or Sharp-billed Canasteros. At the Valle Nevado sky resort, highest point of the day at 10,000 feet, a lovely Mountain Caracara also did a great show.

Our second day in the Andes above Santiago was absolutely stunning too! After driving up the Maipo valley, an area well-known by wine enthusiasts, we headed into El Yeso Valley. Driving toward higher elevations, the ever-changing scenery of the green, red, grey and black mountains was simply stunning. The spectacular Yeso Lake was an obligatory stop for a few pictures. Later, we drove towards a well-known stakeout for Diademed Sandpiper-Plover, but unfortunately the road was crossed by a little creek fed by recent rains and we couldn’t get to the spot for the most-wanted shorebird… Fortunately, we had several great views of the elegant Gray-breasted Seedsnipe, as well as on a pair of the very rare here Thick-billed Siskin. 

The last leg of our trip took us in the extreme north of the country with a very early morning flight to Arica, just a few miles from the Peruvian border. After our early arrival and a necessary coffee, we stopped by some desertic habitat where we first had fantastic and close views on a group of Peruvian Thick-knees, and then enjoyed fantastic sights of the Endangered Peruvian Terns breeding here. We visited the amazing Lluta estuary, finding huge flocks of Gray and Franklin’s Gulls, as well as a few Belcher’s, Andean and Kelp Gulls. Two Kildeers and a pair of White-cheeked Pintail were found on the riverside, where a vagrant Short-billed Dowitcher was also found by Quillen! A huge flock of 1,000+ Sanderling suddenly flew over the beach, and at sea a large group of 1,000+ Sooty Shearwaters were feeding, probably on anchovies, together with numerous Gray Gulls, Peruvian Pelicans and Inca Terns.

After lunch, we headed towards Putre at 11,500 feet (approx. 3,500 meters) in elevation, doing a few stops on the way. Putre is a small and charming Andean village surrounded by ancestral terraces and wonderful mountains in the background and whose inhabitants mostly belong to the Quechua and Aymara cultures. We spent the first morning birding the area around the village, enjoying the impressive diversity of birds found at this elevation: creamy-breasted (Dark-winged) Canasteros, Streaked Tit-Spinetails, Spot-winged Pigeons, Bare-faced Ground-Doves, Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrants, Black-hooded Sierra-Finches and more. Lots of superb Andean Hillstars were buzzing around, as well as (Andean) Giant Hummingbird. And a lovely pair of Aplomado Falcon also shown very well, perched on a electric post near our hotel. In the afternoon we reached the entrance of the Lauca National Park, at almost 14,000 feet. We did not have to walk very long to find a few Cream-winged and White-winged Cinclodes, Plumbeous Sierra-Finches and Puna and White-fronted Ground-tyrants just a few meters from us. But only a few of us did the walk to a nearby bog, but actually a demanding hike at this elevation, to find the beautiful Diademed Sandpiper-Plover. No less than three of this unique bird were seen close, offering great photographic opportunities, as well as four of the rare (in Chile) Puna Snipe. Two Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe were also spotted later! Tired because of the high altitude, we came back to our lodge for a great dinner and a good sleep.

Our next morning was dedicated to the astonishing Lauca National Park. Thanks to wonderful weather, we had superb views on the perfectly triangular and snow-capped Parinacota and Sajama Volcanos, in the background of the beautiful Chungara Lake. But that morning was not only about stunning landscapes; we also saw wonderful birds such as all three species of flamingoes (Chilean, Andean and James’s), ‘red-legged’ Giant Coot breeding on Chungara Lake at 15,000 feet, elegant Andean Avocets, a flock of Puna Ibis plus huge numbers of waterfowl including Andean Ducks and Silvery (Andean) Grebes. We also had great views on a few Black Siskins, a Buff-breasted Earthcreeper, Puna Miners, a few Lesser (Puna) Rheas and a group of eight Puna Tinamous! We also found several Andean Flickers, one of the few colonial woodpeckers in the world. Several groups of the elegant Vicuña were seen close, but not as close as the numerous Viscacha seen only a few meters from us at one of our last stops, where we also found a pair of Glacier Finch and a few cute Bolivian Big-eared Mouse. We then reached our hotel in Arica, and after two days spent at very high elevation, we appreciated not only his coastal location and his great restaurant, but also the Gray Gulls roosting on the nearby shore.

Having a full day around Arica, we decided to spend a full morning in a nearby valley to look for the critically endangered Chilean Woodstar. This species is seriously threatened by agricultural development in the riparian strips of northern Chile rivers and the most pessimistic prognosis is that the species may not survive the next few years… Fortunately, at a known lek, we were able to admire a few males, with the hope the species will be able to survive. In the same area, we found a few of the stunning Pied-crested Tit-Tyrant, several Slender-billed Finches, a few Andean Swifts, Oasis Hummingbirds and Peruvian Sheartails, Vermilion Flycatchers, Croacking Ground-Doves and White-crested (Peruvian) Elaenias. We even spotted an Eastern Kingbird (very rare migrant here).

On the way back to Arica we stopped in the middle of the Atacama Desert, where no one would expect the presence of any bird. But here are breeding a small seabird, the Markham’s Storm-Petrel. With the help of a flashlight and an endoscopic camera, and after sniffing the entrance of breeding cavity for the distinctive smell of storm-petrels, we even had nice looks at two chicks ready to take off soon for the Pacific Ocean! What an unforgettable sight!

Back to the hotel, we scanned the flocks of birds roosting on the rocky shore, and amongst the hundreds of Gray Gull, we found 100+ Willet, as well as a few Surfbirds and Ruddy Turnstones. We even found a second Eastern Kingbird in the hotel garden!

We celebrated that last wonderful day and an exceptional trip with a much-appreciated farewell dinner, during which we remembered some of the best birds of the trip: Andean condor, Chucao Tapaculo, Austral Pygmy-Owl, Inca Tern, James’s Flamingo, Magellanic Penguin, Lesser Horned Owl, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Rufous-legged Owl, Tufted Tit-tyrant, King Penguin, Diademed Sandpiper-Plover, Gray Gull, Ruddy-headed Goose, and so many more!

As the few flights available obliged us to fly back to Santiago quite early, arriving at noon in Santiago, some of us decided to visit the Batuco wetlands, for a last birding afternoon. In the reedbeds, beside many birds already seen during the tour, we had excellent views on the secretive Stripe-backed Bittern, and in the nearby shrubland we found an American Barn Owl in its nestbox, ending nicely a beautiful trip! 

                                                                                                                                                                           -          Fabrice Schmitt

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