Texas: The Upper Coast

Day 1: The tour begins this evening with a 6 pm meeting at our hotel near George Bush Intercontinental Airport, Houston.  Night in Houston.

Day 2 – Leaving Houston, we’ll stop in a small woodlot that has a few breeding pairs of Red-cockaded Woodpeckers and their fellow North American endemic Brown-headed Nuthatch. We’ll continue toward Jasper, Texas, and the Angelina National Forest for a night, stopping along the way at some parks for breeding birds that we may not find on the coast, such as Red-headed Woodpecker, Yellow-throated and White-eyed Vireos, Northern Parula, and Yellow-throated, Prothonotary, Swainson’s, Worm-eating, and Kentucky Warblers, among others.  Once in the Jasper area, we may stop at Boykin Springs for Louisiana Waterthrush and along the forest edge for breeding Prairie Warblers (a local breeder in east Texas). An optional evening outing here may turn up Chuck-wills-widow. While at the parks and along the drive, we’ll watch the skies for Red-shouldered and Broad-winged Hawks and Mississippi Kites. We sometimes see a Swallow-tailed Kite, too. Night in Jasper.

Days 3-6:  After searching for Bachman’s Sparrows in Angelina National Forest early this morning when their lovely song makes them easier to find, and perhaps do a bit more searching for warblers, we’ll leave the Jasper area for Winnie, our base for explorations of the Upper Texas and Louisiana coasts. These days will be varied and, we hope, spectacular. The central focus will be Sabine Woods and High Island, celebrated land bird migrant traps but ones that require special weather to produce a major fall-out of birds. If we’re lucky, cuckoos, thrushes, vireos, warblers of 25 or more species, tanagers, buntings, and orioles will fill these small woods and provide a memorable birdwatching experience.

As High Island and Sabine Woods tend to have more migrants in the afternoon, we’ll spend several mornings looking at water birds. The heronry at nearby Smith Oaks offers intimate looks at nesting Roseate Spoonbill, Snowy and Great Egrets; mudflats and beaches can hold thousands of herons, gulls, terns, and shorebirds of up to 20 species, including Piping and Wilson’s Plovers, often American Oystercatcher, and sometimes thousands of brilliant American Avocets. Flooded rice fields near Winnie can host large numbers of shorebirds, including American Golden-Plover and Pectoral Sandpiper, often joined by Buff-breasted Sandpipers and sometimes White-rumped Sandpiper and Hudsonian Godwit. The wonderful marshes at Anahuac National Wildlife Refuge are recovering from the hurricanes in 2017, and are home to both Fulvous and Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks, Least Bittern, White-faced Ibis, Clapper and King Rails, and Purple Gallinule. There are a few small woodland patches around the marsh that can be good for migrant landbirds. 

On one day, we’ll visit Cameron Parish in southwestern Louisiana to Johnson’s Bayou and a normally uncrowded Baton Rouge Audubon Society woodlot that captures migrants in the same way as High Island and Sabine Woods. On another day, we will drive the coast of the Bolivar Peninsula, stopping in marshes and at beaches to sift through gulls, terns, and shorebirds, as well as look for coastal specialties like Nelson’s and Seaside Sparrows and scan the skies for hunting White-tailed Kites. Nights in Winnie.

Day 7:  After a final full day in the field on the Upper Texas Coast, we’ll return to Houston, perhaps via the Sheldon Lake, where Limpkin has recently colonized, or target any reported rarities in the parks of suburban Houston. Night in Houston. 

Day 8:  The tour concludes this morning in Houston.

• 2026 Narrative
• 2025 Narrative

2026 Narrative

Day 1: We met in the hotel lobby before our 6 pm intro meeting and dinner.

Day 2: Our first morning began with a short drive to White Oak Park, an urban greenway in the car-centric downtown of Houston. Our targets here were two established introduced species, Red-vented Bulbul and Scaly-breasted Munia. Both originally hailing from Asia, Red-vented Bulbul is particularly localised in the US, only found in Hawaii and Houston. The Scaly-breasted Munias here are the particularly bright Checkered subspecies, native to the Indian subcontinent. It wasn’t long before a pair of Scaly-breasted Munias alighted in the tall grass at the edge of the path, showing well. The bulbuls proved somewhat trickier. Alan spotted a distant one on a telephone pole, but this was short-lived, and it wasn’t for another 20 minutes or so before we finally tracked a pair down for good scope views.

Next, we made our way through the urban maze North to WG Jones State Forest. This woodlot at the North end of the Houston suburbs is home to a healthy population of the Threatened Red-cockaded Woodpecker. We began our walk with Eastern Bluebirds and a Pileated Woodpecker, and were tipped off to the location of an active Red-cockaded nest hole. Feeling confident, we staked out the nest hole for half an hour to no avail. At this point, becoming restless, we made the decision to make a circle of the park. This proved more productive, and we enjoyed good views of Brown-headed Nuthatch and Red-headed Woodpecker. Having completed the loop, we were still missing our Red-cockaded Woodpecker. Another 40 minutes or so staking out the nest hole again proved unsuccessful, and we were forced to move on to lunch, hoping that sites near Jasper the next day would allow us to redeem this special bird.

Lunch was a short drive away, and held a long-shot chance of Greater Roadrunner, scarce here in the pine forests of Eastern Texas. In a pleasant turn of luck, we were 5 minutes into our search, when a Greater Roadrunner appeared in the short grass at the edge of the road. Everyone was afforded good views of this gloriously large cuckoo as it confidently crossed the road, pausing again before it disappeared into the brush.

After lunch, it was time to get some real miles behind us in the direction of our hotel for the night, in Jasper, Texas. En route, we made a quick stop at Gore Store Road, often home to territorial Swainson’s Warblers. Despite a road closure and a gusty breeze, we soon tracked down the sweet song of a Swainson’s. Hearing this scarce warbler was only part of the battle, and it took some time to lay eyes on it despite the bird’s close proximity. 

After settling into our hotel in Jasper, we had dinner at a local Mexican restaurant. Several of us stayed out for after-dinner festivities, searching successfully for Chuck-wills-widows. These hefty nightjars were already loudly calling as we pulled up before dark, and we were able to get good views of several.

Day 3: We awoke this morning to a gray sky and cool, humid air. It was 20 minutes to our first stop, a pine-filled savannah at Boykin Springs. Our nemesis from yesterday, Red-cockaded Woodpecker, gave itself up quickly, and we were able to get passable views of a family group high in the trees. A relief after yesterday. A couple of Bachman’s Sparrows were vocal but too distant for visuals, so we moved on, listening for closer birds from the window of the van as we drove. It wasn’t long before we stopped again, hearing more Red-cockaded Woodpeckers. This group gave even better views, and we truly made up for the day before. Several Bachman’s Sparrows were singing here too, and the closest was quickly located with thermal imaging, allowing good scope views for everyone. Having secured good looks of both our main targets, it was time to move on. A quick stop at a nearby side road didn’t produce the hoped-for Prairie Warbler, scarce at the Western edge of its range here in Texas. The nearby Sam Rayburn Reservoir produced a locally scarce pair of Canada Geese and great looks at a pair of Scissor-tailed Flycatchers. 

It was then time to make our way a couple of hours South to the coast, where we would be spending the remainder of the tour. A lunchtime stop at Tyrrell Park Cattail Marsh was enjoyable, hosting Fulvous Whistling Ducks, many Purple Gallinules, and much more. Our first alligators were also swimming ominously around, and it was encouraging to see several younger kids enthusiastic about the nature here.

After lunch, we settled into our hotel before getting back out around Winnie with rain threatening. We made a quick stop at High Island, picking up our Houston Audubon patches but noting very little activity. As such, we moved onto the rice fields to the North and West in search of shorebirds. Most notable was an impressive flock of 164 Buff-breasted Sandpipers, always a favorite. A couple of White-tailed Hawks gave good views, as did a large flock of Hudsonian Whimbrel. King Rail were vocal but remained elusive visually. The impending storm eventually forced us back to Winnie for dinner.

Day 4: Yesterday evening’s storms signaled the arrival of a strong cold front. We awoke to rain and a chilly wind, exactly the type of conditions most likely to have dropped migrants in the isolated woodlots along the Gulf Coast. Sabine Woods, about 45 minutes East, was our first stop. Our excitement initially turned to a ting of disappointment as migrants didn’t seem as thick as we had hoped. This soon turned around though, and the more sheltered back side of the woodlot was awash in dozens of Orchard and Baltimore Orioles, flocks of Indigo Buntings and Rose-breasted Grosbeaks. Hooded Warblers began to appear everywhere, including one particularly exhausted individual which was surely on it’s first perch since completing its Gulf crossing. Amongst the larger numbers of common migrants we slowly worked our way through ones and twos of scarcer species. The tens of Wood Thrushes were joined by a single Veery and Gray-cheeked Thrush, and single Cerulean and Golden-winged Warblers likewise impressed. Worm-eating and Kentucky Warblers were seen too, but good views proved elusive. Painted Buntings were mixed in with Indigo’s but the only prolonged view was distant. Perhaps a little short of “fallout”, but it was a truly excellent morning of migration.

After lunch in oil refinery-littered Port Arthur, we continued East into Louisiana. Peveto Woods is another excellent coastal woodlot, run by Baton Rouge Audubon Society. By this stage the sun was out, but the migrants continued to impress. The parking lot held yet another 3 Cerulean Warblers alongside a Prothonotary and two Chestnut-sided Warblers. A sharp male Black-throated Green Warbler impressed at close range, and a Worm-eating Warbler finally gave better views for some of the group. Kentucky Warbler was also crossed off the improvements required list, with a male bathing at a water drip in the open for several minutes. After a day filled with the kind of warbler action the Gulf Coast always promises, but only occasionally produces, it was time to return to Winnie for dinner and rest.

Day 5: After passerine migrants yesterday, today we turned our attention to coastal species. Our first site, Tuna Road, bisects an extensive salt marsh. Our main target, Seaside Sparrow, was numerous and eventually gave extended views. A Sedge Wren also revealed itself and sang for scope views. Another salt marsh further down the Bolivar Peninsula at Rettilon Road was likewise productive. Best of all was a close and very vocal Black Rail that, unfortunately, remained just out of sight. A Clapper Rail was bolder, crossing the road. A distant White-tailed Kite was also new. On the beach, the tide was too high to walk all the way down to the end of Bolivar Flats, but we nonetheless enjoyed Piping Plovers and an adorable Snowy Plover. 

Next, it was time to take the ferry over to Galveston. The ferry itself was enjoyable. A pod of Atlantic Bottlenose Dolphins kept us company, and we added a Lesser Black-backed Gull and a distant Magnificent Frigatebird. On the opposite side, we spent some time studying terns and shorebirds along Boddecker Drive. A Marbled Godwit was particularly nice. A brief drive into town brought us to an unassuming abandoned lot adjacent to the parking lot of a seafood restaurant. Here, a Burrowing Owl and been seen regularly, and sure enough, we eventually found it hidden in plain sight at the parking lot edge. Before an enjoyable lunch at the Basin Bistro, we caught the attention of some Smoothie King employees when we made a quick stop to watch Monk Parakeets at their nest on a cell tower in the Smoothie King parking lot. After lunch, we began looping back towards Winnie via a few quick stops. A Great Kiskadee, at the Northern edge of its range here, was a good find. A nearby reservoir had large numbers of diving ducks, but unfortunately, the large rafts were too distant for real views. A quick stop at a Cave Swallow colony revealed the unfortunate news that the colony had been taken over by House Sparrows since last year. The adjacent Cliff Swallow colony was likewise entirely abandoned. 

Before turning in for dinner, we made an enjoyable drive around Anahuac NWR’s Shoveler Pond Loop. Highlights included American Barn Owls on a nest, excellent looks at King Rail, and extended study of shorebirds, including our first Western sandpiper. A Merlin made a brief but eventful appearance, flushing hundreds of shorebirds and ducks as it sped low over the marsh. As we left the refuge, we stopped at a pool where a Least Grebe had been hanging out. We were unable to find the grebe, but did pick out a Glossy Ibis from the more common White-faced Ibis.

Day 6: Rain was again on the menu today. Our initial plan to start with the migrant traps at High Island was quickly re-improvised, and we made our way down the Bolivar Peninsula in search of shorebirds we were still missing. A shelter on the lawn at Gregory Park was convenient. We kept (mostly) dry and were treated to good views of a Long-billed Curlew, several Hudsonian Whimbrel, and lots of Short-billed Dowitchers. With the rain continuing, we drove around Fort Travis Park, where the lawns were absolutely littered with Short-billed Dowitchers and Ruddy Turnstones. A number of Marbled Godwit afforded close looks amongst some Laughing Gulls. With the weather worsening further, we braved driving rain to scan a large flock of Black Skimmer near the ferry terminal. Another Magnificent Frigatebird was unfortunately distant.

We then drove back towards High Island, where a brighter sky was now developing. Sure enough, the rain had paused by the time we reached Houston Audubon’s Smith Oaks Sanctuary, and we were able to manage two rain-free hours before the rain conveniently returned just as we were leaving for lunch. Migrants were numerous and fairly vocal, but views were mostly fleeting. There were many Prothonotary’s, and several of these cooperated nicely. The same could not be said for any of the four Blue-winged Warblers we chased around, only giving occasional glances despite plenty of singing. A vocal male Golden-winged and a couple of Ceruleans were not new, but were nonetheless enjoyable. The rookery provided something to look at even when the migrants were being tricky, with plenty of close nests of Roseate Spoonbill, Tricolored Heron, Little Blue Heron, and more.

After lunch, the rain had once again set in. We set about searching for American Oystercatcher, as it had so far eluded us. 17th Street Jetty did not produce our target, but we were able to enjoy a number of Black Terns, as well as improve our views of Least Tern, of which there were many. A final stop at Fort Travis Park thankfully came through with four American Oystercatchers, albeit at a distance. A much closer Clapper Rail cooperated for the scope, and several hundred American Avocet were also pleasant. At this point, we headed back in the direction of High Island and the rice fields near Winnie. We hoped to stop at Boycott Woods, but it was not to be. The rain was torrential and we cut our losses, driving on instead to the rice fields. These too proved relatively unproductive. Just as we were finishing up our loop, watching Buff-breasted Sandpipers in the same field as previous days, we bumped into Lev Frid, who kindly informed us he had just found a female Ruff further up the road. We quickly packed back into the van and raced over to see this unusual Eurasian shorebird. We soon found the bird, already having attracted a small crowd. Bizarrely, this rare vagrant was not found amongst large groups of more common shorebirds, but was instead alone and the closest bird to the road in a fairly empty field. A final evening birding session turned up our first Upland Sandpipers.

Day 7: We began our final full day at High Island’s Boy Scout Woods, were we hoped to connect with some final passerine migrants before heading inland towards Houston. Signs were immediately promising with a number of Prothonotary and Tennessee Warblers frequenting the parking area. A few steps into the reserve itself a Black-billed Cuckoo, a scarce migrant here, alighted in full view at close range. A male Scarlet Tanager was likewise delightful. As we walked further in, Ovenbirds and Kentucky Warblers flushed, as did a Common Nighthawk overhead. The open shrubby meadow at the back had several vocal Yellow-breasted Chats, as well as a Painted Bunting, which we eventually tracked down visually. A final sweep on the way back to the van produced an Ovenbird and Kentucky Warbler, both of which finally cooperated for extended close looks in the open as they meandered around the path and leaf litter on either side. 

Next up was a final search of the rice fields. We made a beeline for a series of particularly promising fields we had driven by the evening before. There were thousands of shorebirds here, mostly Long-billed Dowitchers. Amongst the large numbers of common species, we picked out several new ones. A group of Wilson’s Phalaropes swam and spun, and an American Golden-Plover gave distant views amongst the many Black-bellied and Semipalmated Plovers. Our main remaining quarry was Hudsonian Godwit, a particularly graceful, scarce shorebird that stops over in small numbers on the Texas Coast. Things were not looking promising until, just as we were almost ready to leave, a single breeding plumage Hudsonian Godwit flew in calling. Miraculously, it landed at close range, showing off for everyone before once again departing, showing its white rump and dark underwings. A perfect end to our time on the coast.

As we made our way back towards Houston and our hotel near the airport, we made several more stops. First, a highway underpass provided an opportunity to see Cave Swallows and compare their nests to the Cliff Swallows nesting alongside. Even in this artificial habitat, the Cliffs enjoy the edge, while the Caves tuck themselves away beneath the bridge. A stop at Alexander Deussen Park on the outskirts of Houston was particularly eventful. Upon stepping out of the van, we were immediately greeted by the song of a Prairie Warbler, a rare bird in Texas away from a handful of known territories in the Northeast. A pair of Bald Eagles was also new, as were Fish Crows, Eastern Warbling Vireos, and a late Yellow-rumped Warbler. A pair of introduced Egyptian Geese also provided some entertainment in the form of a squabble with a group of Turkey Vultures. Our final target for the trip was Limpkin, a recent colonist of Texas. A nearby boat launch had been a stronghold for several years, and it didn’t take long for us to connect. As we exited the van, a biblical clap of thunder struck, immediately setting off a Limpkin’s discordant wails. The Limpkin then proceeded to give a close flyby before disappearing further into the swamp.

Day 8: Early departures from Houston’s George Bush Intercontinental Airport. 

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2025 Narrative

The upper Texas coast is a place of dynamic change. Its expansive wetlands and the scattered woodlands like High Island are places where anything can happen at any time. Droves of shorebirds and landbirds pass through this area on their flights north up the central flyway. To the north of High Island, this region is backstopped by the woodlands of the Big Thicket and the upland pineywoods, where some of these birds stay to breed, joining specialized resident species tied to this habitat. Our week in the area was a bit of all of this, and our highlights reflected that. We had scope views of Swainson’s Warbler, Prairie Warbler, and Bachman’s Sparrow on their breeding territories. We also had a few Swallow-tailed Kites circling just over the road on some regular driving. On the coast, we were treated to great looks at some fantastic warblers, including a Cape May and a Louisiana Waterthrush, plus both Black-billed and Yellow-billed Cuckoos, plenty of Scarlet Tanagers, and Indigo and Painted Buntings.  Other greats on the coast were both Least and American Bitterns skulking (not very well) in the reeds and the epic breeding colony of waders, including Tricolored Herons and dazzling Roseate Spoonbills. There was so much to see and every day was a little (or a lot) different.

Our first morning, leaving Houston, we didn’t need to go far before birding happened. A woodlot north of the city was our first stop, and though it took a little wandering around, we ended up with great looks at Red-cockaded Woodpeckers, flying around, flaking bark, and even at a nest hole. Also around were a few of the well-named and striking Red-headed Woodpeckers. We saw some Pine Warblers, as well, but, for this trip, the warblers were just getting started. From there, we drove northwest through the Big Thicket, stopping for a picnic lunch and more birding. The temperature was getting up there, but the birds were singing, and it didn’t take long for us to find a glowing Prothonotary Warbler, a dapper Yellow-throated Warbler, proper looks at Pine Warbler, and we simply enjoyed these birds as they sang from their breeding territories. 

The next morning started warm and pleasant, and we had the privilege of watching a Bachman’s Sparrow sing its sweet song in the pine savannah. From there, we began our journey south toward the coast, but not before pulling off the road to see three Swallow-tailed Kites winging around over the treetops, picking off dragonflies and eating them on the wing. Another stop in the Big Thicket got us looks at a singing Swainson’s Warbler. Once nearer the coast, we drove the roads through the vast agricultural fields looking for shorebirds. We found a few nice flocks out there including one of about 50 Buff-breasted Sandpipers. Another flock had hundreds of shorebirds of fifteen species, including White-rumped Sandpipers, Ruddy Turnstones, Pectoral Sandpipers, and Stilt Sandpipers. Though, not shorebirds, we also saw a few Swainson’s Hawks circling about and checked out a nest of Barn Owls in a building in the Anahuac/Nungaray National Wildlife Refuge.

South winds were blowing when we woke up, which usually isn’t a good sign for there being passerines in the coastal woods, but we decided to give Louisiana a try and went for their coastal woodlands. It being Easter Sunday, we also figured that might get us out of the crowds of Texas birders in the Texas woods. It was a good move. There weren’t tons of birds, but there was quality, and we saw a Cape May Warbler, a species that winters in the Caribbean and normally skips this area. We also saw a couple of Blackpoll Warblers, a few Painted Buntings, and lots of Orchard Orioles and Indigo Buntings. As it got warmer midday many birds were coming to the misting drip birdbath that added an extra layer of cooperation. A bathing Swainson’s Thrush was a particular favorite and it spent a long time being watched by us. After lunch, we returned to Texas and the coastal woodlands. There must have been some afternoon arrivals of birds crossing the Gulf because the woods were busy. There were both Black-billed and Yellow-billed Cuckoos, both Northern and Louisiana Waterthrushes, plus other new goodies like Blue-winged Warbler and lots of Hooded Warblers. 

We visited the coast at the Bolivar Flats shorebird sanctuary the next morning. There was a troubled sky to the northwest with rain threatening, but we started in the saltmarsh and got to watch a fluffy black Clapper Rail chick following its parent around the edge of the marsh. Then we walked out along the beach to the end of the flats to see thousands of shorebirds, terns, and various other waterbirds feeding and resting on the sand. Black Terns were flying around picking at the white caps and Black Skimmers were winging by pushing their bills through the water. With howling wind and an approaching thunderstorm, we returned to the van, and drove down the road into one of the grassy marshes where we had accommodating, singing, and charismatic denizens Sedge Wren and Seaside Sparrow. Then the rain stopped threatening and unloaded on us just as we were leaving to take shelter for lunch. The storm blew through, and we drove to High Island in hopes that it dropped some birds migrating across the Gulf. Sadly, there were only a few things, but fortunately, we were also near an amazing heron rookery, so we finished the day seeing hundreds of Snowy Egrets, Great Egrets, Tricolored Herons, Roseate Spoonbills, and Neotropic Cormorants jumping around, making weird noises, and doing nesting stuff. Many nests had young and we very much enjoyed watching adults and nestlings messing around together. 

We began the day back out on the Bolivar Peninsula to mop up a few misses out there. We saw more shorebirds, plus a lone American White Pelican and an American Oystercatcher. A front yard full of Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks was pretty fun, as well. We then returned to the Anahuac/Nungaray NWR to drive the loop through the marsh. We saw a few more Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks, plus a lot of Fulvous Whistling-Ducks, some Least Bitterns, a Sora, many White Ibis, and lots of American Alligators. Right at the entrance office we also found an American Bittern skulking on the side of the pond catching crayfish and the nest of three fuzzy Barn Owlets. After all that and lunch, we returned to driving around agricultural land looking for whatever might be out in the flooded rice fields. We came across a confusing juvenile Swainson’s Hawk on the ground in a field, plus some stunning Scissor-tailed Flycatchers, and a King Rail moving sneakily along the edge of a roadside ditch. We finished the day at Boy Scout Woods on High Island with a few glowing Scarlet Tanagers and a couple of sleeping Common Nighthawks.

With more rain threatening, we began our last day on High Island at the heron, spoonbill, and cormorant rookery. The cacophony of nesting birds continued, and we enjoyed more looks at Roseate Spoonbills tending to the tiniest of young, Tricolored herons rearranging eggs, and, today, some Little Blue Herons sitting tight. Migrant birds were pretty sparse, but we had close looks at a very cooperative Black-throated Green Warbler foraging at eye-level. But, it became time to move along and back out to Houston. And the rain started. Our first stop was conveniently an underpass of I-10, so, though noisy and weird, it was a great place to stay dry and watch Cliff and Cave Swallows winging around. The Cliff Swallows nested on the outside (the cliff) while the Cave Swallows nested on the inside (the cave). With continuing rain we made a few more brief stops, but one, in particular, was fun and got us a family group of Egyptian Geese, a Least Grebe, and completely soaked. Oh, the memories. No problem, though, the weather was warm, it was great fun, we were on our way to the hotel, and it gave us even more to talk about over our final dinner. 

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