Texas: The Rio Grande Valley in Winter

Including Whooping Cranes

South Texas is small slice of the tropics nestled in the US.  With stunning birds like Green Jay... Image: Jian Cai 2020
South Texas is small slice of the tropics nestled in the US. With stunning birds like Green Jay... Image: Jian Cai 2020
...and the boisterous Great Kiskadees, it feels much like Mexico. Image: Jian Cai 2020
...and the boisterous Great Kiskadees, it feels much like Mexico. Image: Jian Cai 2020
Waterfowl includes Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks with their comical appearance.
Waterfowl includes Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks with their comical appearance.
Some valley specialties are resident like Clay-colored Thrush ...
Some valley specialties are resident like Clay-colored Thrush ...
... audible Audubon's Orioles ...
... audible Audubon's Orioles ...
... and gaudy Altamira Orioles lighting up the trees.
... and gaudy Altamira Orioles lighting up the trees.
We'll scour dense thickets in hopes of finding Black-crested Titmouse ...  Image: Jake Mohlmann
We'll scour dense thickets in hopes of finding Black-crested Titmouse ... Image: Jake Mohlmann
... wintering White-eyed Vireos ...
... wintering White-eyed Vireos ...
... the always cryptic Olive Sparrow ...
... the always cryptic Olive Sparrow ...
... and perfectly hidden Common Pauraque in the leaf litter.
... and perfectly hidden Common Pauraque in the leaf litter.
We'll keep an eye out for roosting owls like this Eastern Screech, alway gray phase here.
We'll keep an eye out for roosting owls like this Eastern Screech, alway gray phase here.
One evening we'll visit a parrot roost, where noncountable species such as this Yellow-headed Parrot ...
One evening we'll visit a parrot roost, where noncountable species such as this Yellow-headed Parrot ...
... join established species like Green Parakeet.
... join established species like Green Parakeet.
Great-tailed Grackles are beautiful, and everywhere, along with ...
Great-tailed Grackles are beautiful, and everywhere, along with ...
... bright pink Pyrrhuloxias ...
... bright pink Pyrrhuloxias ...
... and a smattering of Loggerhead Shrikes.
... and a smattering of Loggerhead Shrikes.
The raptor show should be memorable with close looks at both Harris's Hawk ...
The raptor show should be memorable with close looks at both Harris's Hawk ...
...  the abundant Crested Caracara ...
... the abundant Crested Caracara ...
... and perhaps a rarity like Roadside Hawk; always a possibility.
... and perhaps a rarity like Roadside Hawk; always a possibility.
Time will be spent on the banks of the Rio Grande River ...
Time will be spent on the banks of the Rio Grande River ...
... with fingers crossed for a glimpse at Green Kingfisher ...
... with fingers crossed for a glimpse at Green Kingfisher ...
... wading Little Blue Herons ...
... wading Little Blue Herons ...
... a sunning Neotropic Cormorant already in breeding plumage ...
... a sunning Neotropic Cormorant already in breeding plumage ...
... or a vagrant such as Gray-crowned Yellowthroat.
... or a vagrant such as Gray-crowned Yellowthroat.
The west edge of the valley gives way to drier habitat with birds like Greater Roadrunner ...
photo by Jake Mohlmann
The west edge of the valley gives way to drier habitat with birds like Greater Roadrunner ... photo by Jake Mohlmann
... terrestrial White-tipped Doves ...
... terrestrial White-tipped Doves ...
... and we'll make a special effort to locate the shy Morelet's Seedeater.
... and we'll make a special effort to locate the shy Morelet's Seedeater.
Everyone is always excited by their first Javelinas!
Everyone is always excited by their first Javelinas!
We'll spent time at the coast, the preferred habitat of Aplomado Falcons ...
We'll spent time at the coast, the preferred habitat of Aplomado Falcons ...
... which we may see while scanning wetlands ...
... which we may see while scanning wetlands ...
... for Roseate Spoonbills and Reddish Egrets, here a white phase.
... for Roseate Spoonbills and Reddish Egrets, here a white phase.
Staying quiet will ensure encounters with marshbirds like Sora ...
Staying quiet will ensure encounters with marshbirds like Sora ...
... and get us close to flocks of gulls, terns and Black Skimmers on the beaches.
... and get us close to flocks of gulls, terns and Black Skimmers on the beaches.
We'll never be far from a Ringed Kingfisher. Image: Jake Mohlmann
We'll never be far from a Ringed Kingfisher. Image: Jake Mohlmann
... and constantly be reminded South Texas is not just about the birds, here a Thornbush Dasher ...
... and constantly be reminded South Texas is not just about the birds, here a Thornbush Dasher ...
... and the pretty Zebra Longwing.
... and the pretty Zebra Longwing.
A boat trip out to Aransas National Wildlife Refuge ...
A boat trip out to Aransas National Wildlife Refuge ...
... may pass a perched Peregrine Falcon ...
... may pass a perched Peregrine Falcon ...
... but ultimately gets us close to foraging Whooping Cranes ...
... but ultimately gets us close to foraging Whooping Cranes ...
... that spend the winter in family groups searching for blue crabs.
... that spend the winter in family groups searching for blue crabs.
2025 Tour Price
$4,550
2025
Single Room Supplement $730
Maximum group size seven with one leader.
Tour balances paid by check/bank transfer may carry a 4% discount

At a time when much of the country is still firmly embraced by cold, South Texas typically offers a delightfully mild climate along with an amazing abundance and diversity of both wintering and resident birds. The lower Rio Grande Valley’s remnants of mesquite and riparian woodland harbor an array of species much sought after by North American birdwatchers. On visits to such famed spots as the Brownsville area, Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge, Bentsen - Rio Grande Valley State Park, and the riverside below Falcon Dam, we’ll look especially for birds whose ranges in the United States are restricted to South Texas. Winter is also a time when rare vagrants from Mexico appear, and the tour’s flexible schedule will allow us to pursue any that are present.

Most of the world’s wild Whooping Cranes winter along a small stretch of the Texas coast, and our tour will make a special trip for a chance to visit these magnificent birds by boat and enjoy the abundance of birds that use the rich central Texas coastline during the winter months.

Tour Team
Itinerary (Click to see more)

Day 1: The tour begins with a 6:00 pm meeting in the lobby of our Harlingen motel. Night in Harlingen.

Our tour was excellent.  Jake was a wonderful guide, intrepid and dedicated to seeing the special birds of the Lower Rio Grande. He was also a great teacher, very patient with questions about the birds, and patient too in explaining the daily itinerary and why we were there. I was more than amazed at his knowledge of the birds and the area. His kindness, caring and good spirits kept me going even when the weather was not cooperating. -Jeannette M.

Days 2-3: We’ll spend our first two birding days exploring coastal sites at Brownsville, Boca Chica, and South Padre Island, and the central Valley’s wonderful array of reserves possibly including Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge, Bentsen - Rio Grande Valley State Park, Weslaco’s increasingly famous Frontera Audubon Society grounds, and the newly developed Estero Llano Grande State Park. We’ll be looking particularly for specialties such as Hook-billed Kite, White-tipped Dove, Common Pauraque, Buff-bellied Hummingbird, Couch’s Kingbird, Clay-colored Thrush, Tropical Parula, and Altamira Oriole, but we’ll also scrutinize the ever-present winter passerine flocks, which may contain Blue-headed Vireo and warblers including Nashville, Black-throated Gray, and Yellow-throated. We may visit the Brownsville city landfill to look for any rare gull species that may be present, or scan the myriad of wetlands along the boat channel for terns, herons, egrets, and shorebirds. Our schedule will be flexible, and if rarities are present, we’ll search for them. Nights in McAllen.

Days 4-5: After our final morning in the Lower Valley, we’ll head inland and upriver to a more arid section of the Rio Grande Valley. Well-known riparian spots such as Chapeño, Salineño, and San Ignacio will occupy much of our time, as we’ll focus our efforts on species such as Green and Ringed Kingfishers and Audubon’s, Altamira, and Hooded Orioles. In some years a few Muscovy Ducks, Red-billed Pigeons, or one of the rarer raptors such as Common Black-Hawk, Hook-billed Kite, Zone-tailed, or even Roadside Hawk may also be present. We’ll make a special effort to locate the diminutive and often maddeningly hard-to-pin-down Morelet’s Seedeater. In the desert scrub of Falcon State Park we may see Northern Bobwhite, Verdin, Cactus Wren, Black-throated Sparrow, and Lark Bunting, among many other species. We’ll also explore Falcon Lake, where waterfowl can be abundant and Sprague’s Pipit sometimes hides in the grassy verges. Nights in Zapata.

Day 6: We’ll spend our morning up river seeking any desert species or river specialties that we may have missed and then make our way back to Harlingen, with stops along the way as current ornithological possibilities dictate.  In the late afternoon we’ll head back to Brownsville for the incredible evening spectacle of parrots coming into roost.  The Brownsville parrot flock is perhaps the largest in the valley, and is certainly the most diverse. Our visit will have the possibility of seeing up to six species of parrots (although only two are currently recognized as established). Night in Harlingen.

Day 7: On this day we’ll drive out to the coastal plain, where the flat grasslands support pairs of Aplomado Falcons, foraging Long-billed Curlew, singing Eastern Meadowlarks, and soaring White-tailed Hawks.  The shallow Laguna Madre supports incredible numbers of wintering waterfowl, including the largest concentration of Redhead in the world, and the woodlots and marshes of South Padre Island play host to rails, innumerable waders, and larids, and sometimes a surprise or two, like the Flammulated Owl we saw on our 2013 tour!  After a bird-rich day along the coast and dinner at a beachside restaurant, we’ll head back to Harlingen.  Night in Harlingen. 

Day 8: We will leave Harlingen today, passing through the vast King and Kenedy Ranches on the way to Corpus Christi. We will stop to visit the King Ranch and have a local guide help us search for Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl. This species has a stronghold on the property and this location is perhaps the best place to see it north of the Mexican border. We’ll stop frequently to bird in oak woodland and mesquite grassland, where small ponds and farm fields harbor impressive numbers of waterfowl. Raptors should be common on the roadsides, and we’ll look especially for White-tailed, Harris’s, and Ferruginous Hawks and for Crested Caracara. Night in Corpus Christi.

Day 9: The bays and inlets around Corpus Christi and Aransas Pass support large numbers of wintering waterbirds. We’ll spend this morning on a boat exploring the back bays near Aransas National Wildlife Refuge. Whooping Crane is the main attraction here, and we usually see several family groups very well. We’ll also be keeping an eye out for Roseate Spoonbill, Reddish Egret, and American Oystercatcher along the way. In the afternoon we’ll visit Port Aransas and Mustang Island, where raptors are numerous and both Sedge Wrens and Le Conte’s Sparrows lurk in the weeds. A peek at the Gulf of Mexico at Port Aransas may produce a Northern Gannet or an unusual gull. Night in Corpus Christi.

Day 10: The tour concludes this morning in Corpus Christi. 

Last updated Sep 09, 2024
Tour Information (Click to see more)

Note: The information presented below has been extracted from our formal General Information for this tour.  It covers topics we feel potential registrants may wish to consider before booking space.    The complete General Information for this tour will be sent to all tour registrants and of course supplemental information, if needed, is available from the WINGS office.

ENTERING THE UNITED STATES:  Non-U.S. citizens will need a valid passport and may need a tourist visa or visa waiver.  Consult your nearest U.S. Embassy or consulate for details. Canadian citizens should carry proof of citizenship in the form of a passport or birth certificate. 

COUNTRY INFORMATION: There is no U.S. Department of State Country-Specific Travel Information for the USA. You can review foreign travel advice from the UK government here:  https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice and travel advice and advisories from the Government of Canada here:  https://travel.gc.ca/travelling/advisories. You can access the CIA World Factbook background notes on the United States here: https://www.cia.gov/the-world-factbook/countries/united-states/

PACE OF THE TOUR: We usually begin our day between 6:30 and 7:30 a.m. and return to the hotel usually between 5 and 6 p.m. On days when we’re looking for species such as parrots and rails, we’ll leave at dusk and may go directly to dinner without the usual break. Although we spend much time on foot, our walks are on flat terrain with numerous pauses.

The boat trip to see the Whooping Cranes is on protected inland waters and is rarely rough. Our craft for this trip also has bathrooms and an enclosed cabin with windows for those who do not want to sit on deck.

HEALTH: Texas presents no real hazards.

Smoking: We request that you do not smoke in the vehicles or when the group is gathered for meals, checklists, etc. If you are sharing a room with a non-smoker, please do not smoke in the room. If you smoke in the field, we ask that you do so well away and downwind from the group.

As it may be difficult to replenish supplies of personal medications, please anticipate your needs and bring an adequate supply.

Miscellaneous:  The most common injuries result from spines penetrating the soles of tennis shoes. Virtually every desert plant is armed with thorns or spines and we recommend of at least ankle height as the best safeguard.

Sun: The sun can be intense—a broad-brimmed hat, proper clothing and strong sun screen lotion are essential.

Insects, Arachnids and Chiggers: South Texas has mosquitoes, ticks, and more troublesome still, chiggers. Although insects seldom present a problem in winter, we recommend using insect repellents with a high concentration of DEET. However, care must be taken to avoid getting the DEET repellent on optical equipment as DEET dissolves rubber and plastic and can damage coated lenses. Camping supply stores and outfitters carry some reasonably effective and natural alternatives, such as products containing permethrin 0.5%, that aren’t corrosive.

Fire ants are widely distributed and thoroughly noxious. The leaders will identify the ants at first encounter and remind you frequently to watch where you stand.

We actively look for rattlesnakes and feel lucky to see one. These fascinating reptiles are not a hazard but one always needs to use common sense when dealing with potentially dangerous wild creatures. Scorpions are mostly nocturnal and rarely seen, and the tarantulas occasionally seen on the highway are not dangerous.

CLIMATE: Mid-winter temperatures can vary from the low 40s F to the upper 80s or even low-90s. Temperatures will be a bit chillier on the water and there is always the possibility or rain and/or wind. We suggest bringing several layers of clothing, a rain jacket, and light gloves to be prepared for a variety of conditions.

ACCOMMODATIONS: We will be staying at standard, comfortable motels. WiFi is available throughout.

FOOD: Meals mostly taken in local restaurants are good U.S. standard with excellent Mexican fare and Gulf seafood. Breakfast will typically be at our lodging and lunches may be picnics depending on the day and the weather forecast.

WINGS tours are all-inclusive and no refunds can be issued for any missed tour meals.

Food Allergies / Requirements: We cannot guarantee that all food allergies can be accommodated at every destination. Participants with significant food allergies or special dietary requirements should bring appropriate foods with them for those times when their needs cannot be met. Announced meal times are always approximate depending on how the day unfolds. Participants who need to eat according to a fixed schedule should bring supplemental food. Please contact the WINGS office if you have any questions.

TRANSPORTATION: We will be traveling by leader-driven 12 or 15 passenger window van or minivan, depending on the group size. Participants should be willing and able to ride in any seat in tour vehicles.

Last updated Mar 10, 2017
Bird Lists (Click to see more)
Map (Click to see more)
Narrative (Click to see more)

2024 Narrative

South Texas thrilled us all during our week in this birding paradise. We managed to encounter an impressive 213 species of birds in just over 1 week. Winter in this region is a great time to search for rare strays from Mexico. This year provided so many of these rarities it was hard to keep track of them all. Highlights included but weren’t limited to eye-level looks of Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, scope views of Gray-collared Becard, and a nighttime adventure to see Mottled Owl. We were able to explore a new area this year below Falcon Dam in the lush riparian woodland on the banks of the Rio Grande River. The Santa Margarita Ranch was a highlight not only for rarities but for a demanding view from high up on the bluffs of a large portion of the valley, a unique perspective of this largely flat landscape. We had a ball in Corpus Christi catching up with a first for USA Cattle Tyrant foraging in the parking lot of our favorite restaurant. This all topped off with an amazing experience with a couple of dozen Whooping Cranes rounded out one of the best trips to this area I’ve ever experienced.

We were at our first destination even before the sun came up. Resaca de La Palma State Park is a World Birding Center that protects about 1,200 acres of Tamaulipan thorn scrub habitat. Just in the parking lot we immediately got amazing views of one of our target birds the Rose-throated Becard. This female-plumaged bird stuck mainly to the treetops looking for insects with which to consume. The ‘no-hope’ songs of Inca Doves surrounded us as they flew around with rattling wings. A Ladder-backed Woodpecker called from a nearby tree and inched its way up to the top to see the day’s happenings. We started tracking a flock of warblers that had an extremely nice composition of species. Blue-headed and White-eyed Vireos fed at different levels of the forest and diminutive Blue-gray Gnatcatchers flitted about quickly using their long tails as rudders. A major score here were several Tropical Parulas. At least one was a bright male, who repeatedly sang its rising song allowing us to keep close tabs on its whereabouts. Also in the mix here was a scarce winter Dusky-capped Flycatcher that worked at eye level snatching insects off branches after long bouts of sitting still. The beautiful song of Long-billed Thrasher rang through the forest. Eventually, it hopped up high into a tree above our heads and allowed scope views as it belted out its melody. A short stroll through the dense scrub down the Ebony Trail led us to a dry ‘resaca’ and directly to a rare Roadside Hawk perched on its edge. We observed the bird repeatedly come to the ground to hunt insects and fly back and forth across the opening in the forest. The feeders here were also memorable, with a colorful pallet that’s hard to beat. Showy Green Jays squawked their arrivals and materialized out of the green surrounds. They joined bright orange Altamira Orioles and crimson Northern Cardinals. We were excited to see an Olive Sparrow picking through some food on the top of a log mere feet away, a normally reclusive species that sticks to the leaf litter in the densest parts of the undergrowth. A nice addition to the mix was a brief visit from a male Western Tanager, a bright yellow bird with dark wings and light wing bars, and a bright red face coming in nicely. Although common at times, this is a rare winter species for the valley. Then we headed even further south, just north of the bustling border crossing where thousands of people waited to go back and forth across the international boundary. The University of Texas Rio Grande Valley campus had another treat in store for us. We crept through the dense vegetation surrounding a resaca and sat on the ground at a well-worn spot in hopes of catching a glimpse of the Fan-tailed Warbler that had been reported. Our luck continued as the warbler all of a sudden appeared with its bright yellow belly and white spots standing out on the otherwise dark gray tail and face. It swayed its tail around as it foraged across the ground, as close as 10 feet away at one point. Other birds along the well-vegetated ponds included great views of tiny Least Grebes hanging with stunning male Blue-winged Teal. These super cute fluff balls with their beady yellow eyes were very memorable. Huge groups of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks sat on the shoreline. Gigantic American White Pelicans were resting atop the retaining walls. Comparative views of both Neotropic and Double-crested Cormorants were utilized, spending time to look at all the features that differentiate the two. Anhingas sat like ornaments atop dead branches over the water, stoic with wings spread drying out from their morning’s foraging. To see if our luck would continue, we traveled north to Hugh Ramsey Park in Harlingen. It was hot and windy, but a flock of Plain Chachalacas utilizing the water feature was a nice prize upon our arrival. It didn’t take long for us to hear the distinctive call notes of the Golden-crowned Warbler. If only it had been as easy to see as hear! We kept track of this shy individual as it slowly foraged through only the densest parts of the scrub. Our patience was tested but eventually, everyone got at least some sort of view.

The next morning, we headed to the Donna area and checked the huge body of water at the reservoir. Large rafts of Lesser Scaup were huddled together, as were a couple of groups of Northern Shoveler. A close-to-shore Pied-billed Grebe showed its bi-colored bill in detail and some stripe-faced Ruddy Ducks dove in the nearshore. An Osprey was spotted in an odd place. It was no surprise to see one of these pescatarians consuming a fish, but the fact it was on the ground in a recently plowed field instead of one of the many perches nearby seemed odd to us. Northern Harriers coursed over the nearby turf farm, occasionally flushing a large flock of Long-billed Curlews, our largest shorebird. A Western Meadowlark was nice to see perched at eye level right next to the van and was even more appreciated after being able to see many Eastern Meadowlarks immediately after for a good lesson in separating the closely related cousins. A white raptor was spotted on top of a mesquite tree that turned out to be a gorgeous White-tailed Kite. It turned out there were 2 of these elegant raptors perched close together. We noticed a large stick nest nearby in a different tree and suspected it might be their nest awaiting the next phase of development. We then headed over to Frontera Audubon thicket, a 15-acre nature preserve protecting a small, but productive, patch of thorn-scrub habitat right in the middle of the city of Weslaco. Our intention here was to locate a reported Crimson-collared Grosbeak that had been seen almost daily for several weeks prior. Despite our best efforts we were unable to locate the individual, this time, but had a blast seeing what other species Frontera had to admire. Golden-fronted Woodpeckers adorned the old palm trees here and several Black-crested Titmice foraged in small groups. In with a calling Wilson’s Warbler, we spotted another treat in the form of yet another Golden-crowned Warbler. This one was much easier to see because, despite sticking to the dense scrub, this particular habitat was not as widespread as yesterday enabling us to get a more unobstructed view through the undergrowth. White-tipped Doves were constantly walking around through the leaf litter, often cooing their memorably hoo-hoo song. There was whitewash all over several of the trails which caught our attention. This was undoubtedly from the plethora of Turkey Vultures that arrive here to roost in November and stay through March. After our delicious lunch at a local taqueria, we relocated into Estero Llano Grande State Park. This park boasts a bird list of over 356 species in only 17 years of existence. We took time to differentiate what made the swallows flying overhead either Tree, or the newly arrived Purple Martins coming in to scout for nesting locations. At Alligator Pond we watched adult Black-crowned and Yellow-crowned Night Herons roosting on the water’s edge. We also took time to talk about the finer details of telling the juvenile versions of these two species apart. This area is also a well-known roost site for Common Pauraque that we were eventually able to spot. Due to this species’ amazing camouflage, it took us a while to find this cryptic caprimulgiforme perfectly hidden in the leaf litter. There was an Eastern Screech-Owl peering through squinted eyes from a tree hollow. This owl may be split one day into a separate species named McCall’s Screech Owl. This distinct population only has a gray morph and lacks the typical whinny call of the eastern species. Along the well-wooded areas, both Orange-crowned Warblers and “Myrtle” Yellow-rumped Warblers were downright numerous. Overhead we were treated to a fly-by buteo that turned out to be a young White-tailed Hawk making repeated passes. We noticed one of its feet dangling. There was no prey evident, so we thought maybe it had a bum foot. Viewed from up on the dike, a sleeping flock of Black-necked Stilts with American Avocets was fun to see comparing both species with their black-and-white plumages of the season. A group of hefty American White Pelicans was hard to miss, and a few Roseate Spoonbills were foraging in the fashion they are well known for, sweeping their bills back and forth through the shallow waters. A sizeable group of Long-billed Dowitchers allowed a good study, as did the similarly plumaged 10 Stilt Sandpipers feeding amongst them. In the evening we experienced a spectacle as we searched 10th Ave for Green Parakeets staging to roost. It was obvious we were in a proper staging area when we started to notice some of the over 25,000 Great-tailed Grackles that were getting together for one last social event of the day. It was unbelievable to see this many blackbirds in 1 place with their ridiculous sounds almost deafening, especially when the flock of 199 Green Parakeets took off in unison each vying for the last squawk before heading to roost. It quickly became obvious why the birds were scattering when we saw a group of 3 Harris’s Hawks who decided to also make this their roosting area for the night as well. Not only were the grackles impressive, but the congregation of groups of hundreds of Bronzed Cowbirds was also a sight to behold.

The next day we started out right after breakfast heading south towards the Mexican border. A few birds flew across in front of our van and pearched on top of a leafless tree. These were Red-Crowned Parrots much to our delight and an unexpected bird in this habitat, surrounded by agricultural fields. Soon we were at the gates to the famous Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge. This piece of land protects over 2,000 acres of woodland and sits right in the middle of a major east/west and north/south migration corridor. Just after leaving the visitor’s center the familiar chip note of a Black-throated Gray Warbler was heard. The calls led us to a male version actively foraging in the acacia branches gleaning insects with skill from the tips of the twigs. The impoundments here were full of water, something that wasn’t the case for many of the places we visited during the week. As a result waterfowl numbers and diversity were high. Eared, Least, and Pied-billed Grebes swam in close proximity. As they dove and reappeared in different areas, we practiced our ID skills as they popped up like balloons. Gadwall were loafing on the shore of some islands, as were diminutive Green-winged Teal. Ruddy Ducks were both active and asleep, both activities showing their stiff, cocked tails the group is known for. A small cluster of Bufflehead seemed out of place in the shallow ponds, normally preferring deeper water to dive in for prey. Vermilion Flycatchers were posted up on several trees, appearing like a flame on the ends of the branches. A perched raptor was scoped and revealed itself to be a Merlin, infrequently seen on this winter tour. Over a 30-minute period, we watched both the Merlin and American Kestrel show their hunting skills, each attempting to snatch up different animals. As we were pursuing a Common Yellowthroat through the dense vegetation a surprise Sedge Wren popped up right in front of us. We didn’t have long to study this bird before it dropped back into the veg out of view never to be seen by us again. At one of the smaller ponds, a white flash low over the water disappeared into the low-hanging branches on the perimeter. We were elated to finally meet up with a Green Kingfisher, much smaller than we’d thought it would be. Later on, we tallied its slightly larger cousin the Belted Kingfisher as it flew up and over the trees looking for a quiet place to hunt. Lots of swallows were coursing over the water. They were mostly comprised of Tree, but we were able to pick out a single Cave Swallow and follow it as it came in for a brief drink then disappeared into the increasing rain squall. Due to the weather, we didn’t have much raptor viewing from the Hawk Tower, however, we were able to spot a nesting Great Horned Owl glaring at us from our unusual location staring down at it from above. After tallying our 68th species here, we were famished and headed to some of the famed Texas barbeques we’d been hearing about. After our culinary adventure, we started to head northwest and inland to try for some previously reported Mountain Plovers near the town of McCook. The plowed fields in this area were endless and it would have normally been futile to just head out here and somehow find the dirt-clod mimicking Plovers, but a small group were loyal to one particular field. We enjoyed scope views of a few of them, despite the heat shimmer of the hot afternoon. As we tried to get closer a local farmer came to check on what we were doing. It turned out to be the owner of the land and, after a short chat, we were welcomed to continue our pursuit for a better view. He did warn us to stay clear of the ‘potatoes’ who recently moved into the area from Houston. We are still wondering exactly what he meant, but noted his warning and kept to the main road. We then checked the northern end of “sparrow road”, a popular local spot with varied habitats particularly good for sparrow viewing in winter. It did not disappoint as flocks of both Lark Buntings and Vesper Sparrows kept flushing roadside, some allowing extremely close approach much to the delight of the photographers in the group. We had to end our day and begin the 1.5-hour drive to our next base for the next couple of nights, Zapata.

The following day was one for the record books and may never be duplicated ever again on this tour. For months I had been planning for our group to get access to the Santa Margarita Ranch, which had been reporting some ridiculously rare and amazing birds over the last few weeks. We had our fingers crossed the birds would still be there for our chance to see some of these highly sought-after creatures. We left Zapata in the dark and met our guide for the day at the border wall, recently constructed on this private ranch abutting the Rio Grande River. One thing that makes this ranch special is its bluffs. These high hills are hard to come by in this part of Texas. They allowed a stunning view up and downriver, as well as far into Mexico and the mountains to the south. Immediately birds started streaming by including gulls like Ring-billed and Herring, Caspian Terns, and numerous Osprey actively hunting at our eye level. The machine-gun-like rattle of a Ringed Kingfisher was heard and soon after it appeared downriver, hovering like a helicopter over the gently flowing river eyeing anything that could be considered food. The bluffs here sit atop some sizeable wash banks, one of which hosts a breeding pair of these magnificent birds, the USA’s largest kingfisher. We noticed flocks of ducks flushing from upriver. Eventually, we saw an illegal fishing boat slowly floating down the Mexico side of the river close to the bank. As we observed it come around the close bend a large wader flushed from the reeds along the shore. It turned out to be the Bare-throated Tiger-Heron. This bird is only the 3rd USA record so needless to say we were super excited to see this individual. We managed some scope views of it obscured up in the trees, but eventually it came back down to the water’s edge and perched up courteously on a downed log. Just across the river we spotted an adult Gray Hawk camouflaged nicely amongst the gray bark of the towering trees. It sat still for an hour peering down into the stuffed vegetation below waiting for something to reveal itself. After a few hours of viewing from the bluffs, we headed down to the riparian vegetation we’d been overlooking in hopes of finding some of the other rarities that had been reported here. After we passed through two locked gates we parked and began walking along the 2-track. Immediately the calls of a Rock Wren were heard. We watched as this uncommon bird here hopped around on the side of one of the washes. Another bird we heard calling was the Inca Dove with a song described by some as a repeated phrase “whirl pool, whirl pool”. About 20 minutes later as we approached the feeding area a loud shriek came out from the forest. Instantly a Brown Jay materialized out of nowhere and was soon joined by a couple more. This huge jay used to be much easier to see in the USA, but this ranch is now the only reliable publicly accessible place to run into them on this side of the border. Our local guides expertly placed loads of citrus, peanut butter, marshmallows, and other sundry things out on the branches in hopes that the birds would find some interest. It didn’t take long for a pair of bright yellow and black Audubon’s Orioles to come in to investigate the buffet, joined by a kaleidoscope of colors in the form of Altamira Orioles, Green Jays, and Northern Cardinals. After our delicious picnic lunch, we decided to stroll along the shores of the river. As luck would have it, we re-spotted the Bare-throated Tiger Heron hunkered down in the giant reed grass across the river, sitting perfectly still trying to blend in with the tall vegetation. This was a much better view than what we’d had on the bluffs and allowed close inspection of the beautiful vermiculated pattern of the plumage and name-sake bare yellow throat. We looked up and down the river from an island and flushed a group of 20 Least Sandpipers picking through the mud, as well as added an American Pipit slowly strolling along the water’s edge. Also adding to the growing waterfowl list were a couple of Canvasback, normally more at home in much deeper water. On our way out from the ranch, our guide stopped and did his best Scaled Quail call to see if they’d respond. After the memorable performance, and tossing handfuls of seed out into the scrub, a few of these cotton-topped quail came strolling out. Although more common further upriver, this was the first time this species was recorded on this winter tour and an unexpected bonus to the ranch visit. We had an early dinner and headed back to Santa Margarita Ranch in hopes of witnessing one of the other super rare birds being recorded here at nighttime. After the last rays of light set over the horizon, we began trekking back down towards the river. Common Pauraques ‘reeer’ calls were scattered over the landscape, and several McCall’s Screech-Owl’s trills rang loud as we walked under the star-lit sky. Out of the darkness came some low hoots and instantly we knew this was the Mottled Owl we were keeping our fingers crossed for. We slowly worked our way towards the owl as its call echoed through the riparian forest. Our guide’s night vision monocular eventually revealed the location of this amazing owl, and quickly it was lit up in the soft glow of the spotlight for us to snap some pics and take in this amazing beast. Amazingly this was yet another third USA record and the first Mottled Owl that was actually chaseable, giving us a thrill we’ll never forget.

The next morning we worked our way back down to the bountiful forests below Falcon Dam. En route, there were several Western Meadowlark herds working the grassy roadside edges. A small flock of Lark Sparrows were teed up on the barbed wire boundary fence showing clown-like facial patterns nicely. Soon we arrived at the boat launch at Salineno, giving great visibility up and downstream at water level. We strolled up a 2-track and stood on the bank near a stand of giant reeds. After about 20 minutes a tiny brown bird came flying in from the island nearby. We waited patiently for the bird to pop back up, and when it did we noted the cute shape and white wingbars of a female Morelet’s Seedeater. After numerous high fives for scoring another South Texas specialty, we slowly walked back towards the boat launch. At this point, a sparrow darted into a bush and caught our eye. A quick pish and a silent Cassin’s Sparrow popped right back up. Numbers of this species winter in the desert southwest including the Rio Grande Valley, but are largely undetected due to their habits of acting mouselike this time of year. We saw this great individual sitting still at length for us to see even in binoculars. It really is a sparrow that’s more appreciated with a good look at the intricate pattern of its otherwise subtle tones. Back at the boat launch, I scanned the shoreline and treetops for anything interesting. A few minutes later I spotted a large dark shape sitting still at the tippy top of a giant tree. Could it be!? The scope revealed another big target bird for this area, the Red-billed Pigeon. This bird sat long enough that even those who were away using the bathroom were still able to get to the scope in time to note all its features, including its mostly white and slightly red bill. The arrangement here at the famous Dewind’s feeders never disappoints as numerous specialties stock up on food for leaner times, or perhaps just to be gluttons. Seriously good views of Golden-fronted Woodpecker, Black-crested Titmouse, and the streaky Long-billed Thrasher all graced our lenses mere meters away. We reluctantly left this bird-rich area and made our way back down the valley in hopes our luck would continue as we searched yet again for the Crimson-collared Grosbeak we’d struck out on earlier. This time at Frontera was very different than our first. Within 10 minutes of our arrival, the rarity was spotted hunkered deep within a vine tangle. It started giving its diagnostic call solidifying any doubt that’s what we were seeing, and eventually jumped into the open briefly before nearly taking Adam’s head off as it flew off between group members. Since we had such great luck, we decided to check one more place before checking into our hotel for the evening. We cruised through Progreso where flocks of thousands of blackbirds were littering the fields and skies. At the dusty granary silos the droves of blackbirds were taking advantage of the spillage from the loading docks. The group sifted through the masses of entirely male Red-winged Blackbirds to find both Brown-headed and red-eyed Bronzed Cowbirds, as well at least 20 bright Yellow-headed Blackbirds. At one point we were surrounded on all sides of the van by tens of thousands of blackbirds, so loud we could barely hear each other talk even with the windows up. After an early check-in, we went back out in search of the magic that is the lower valley’s famed parrot roosts. In Weslaco we sat and watched droves of Turkey Vultures coming in to roost as they slowly floated overhead with wabbly flight and featherless heads. As the sun was setting a huge flock of Red-crowned Parrots started flying in staging on the surrounding trees. Birds met up in couples as if exchanging information on where the best foods were for tomorrow’s forage. Shortly thereafter we raced to an area where the parrots were feeding close to the road. Close inspection of the raucous flock revealed other species as well including bright Yellow-headed, Lilac-crowned and a single Red-lored Parrot. We had fun sharing stories at dinner about the amazing day we’d had, adding even more unreal birding experiences for the week.

We got an early start the next morning and headed straight back to Resaca de la Palma State Park to try again for the remaining uber rarity we had yet to see in the valley. The place hadn’t changed much since we were there last. It was still ripe with birds including additional looks at both Tropical Parula and Rose-throated Becard. We used the crowd to our advantage and spread out, making sure to pass the word along if anyone saw anything interesting. It took some time, but eventually, we heard that the Gray-collared Becard had been seen behind the feeding station. We rushed over and missed it by only a minute. It was some time before it showed up again, but eventually, it slowed down enough to find a favored perch to sit on and preen. We were able to get it in the scope and everyone got lengthy views of this normally restless flycatcher, sitting in the open for 15 minutes. Not to sound like a broken record, but this was yet another 3rd USA record, the only other occasions being from the reputable Chiricahua Mountains of southeast Arizona. After pinching ourselves, we headed east towards the coast. The areas on and around South Padre Island, with its vast sweeping mudflats and mangrove wetlands, produced a bunch of new species for our trip. We slow-rolled along some dusty roads hoping to find a few species for the day away from the masses along the highway. A small group of Nilgia feeding at Laguna Atascosa NWR, a non-native Asian antelope with a good population in this part of south Texas. Long-billed Curlews lurked through the salt grass flats and Turkey Vultures seemed to be perched on every single fencepost. A male Northern Bobwhite darted across the road for some to see, and the beautiful song of Eastern Meadowlarks filled the airwaves. We putted along as slowly as we could along route 100 searching for the Aplomado Falcons that frequented this area, but could not turn any up. We did however spot a different type of falcon perched on a power pole near Laguna Vista. It turned out to be a huge Peregrine Falcon that was ripping apart and enjoying a lifeless bird that it had undoubtedly plucked from the sky at a high rate of speed. In the afternoon we searched the mudflats on South Padre Island sifting through loads of shorebirds and terns looking for anything we may not have seen up to this point. Dunlin numbered in the hundreds, closely followed by impressive numbers of Sanderling. A group of Short-billed Dowitchers huddled together with some feeding bouts for a good lesson in dowitcher ID. Interspersed with the plentiful Willets were Black-bellied Plovers, similar in size but completely different foraging behavior and bill shape. We were all delighted when a single Piping Plover decided to fly in and land close by blending in perfectly with the tan-colored sand it was standing on. Slowly we began to see there were many more of these tiny balls of cuteness, and eventually counted 34 of these darling birds! It was nice to see them interspersed with the similarly-sized Semipalmated Plovers, the latter with bold chest bands and brown plumage.  The Piping Plovers is severely threatened at the very least over much of its breeding range so any sightings of these elusive wanderers are always cherished. A sizeable flock of American Skimmers was nice to practically walk right up to allowing inspections of the odd-shaped bill this bird utilizes for hunting just above the water. Other birds having a snooze with the skimmers were droves of Royal, Caspian, and Forster’s Terns. Some larger shorebirds that allowed close approach were the rusty plumaged Marbled Godwits with slightly upturned bills, and Black-necked Stilts standing tall perched atop their long red legs. Fortunately, we also had a good study of both plumages of Reddish Egret, both varieties given away by their frantic feeding method. We then walked around the boardwalks over the marsh at the Convention Center to slowly saunter through the emergent vegetation. A group of Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks were resting amongst the reeds, and several pairs of Mottled Ducks were studied replete with a black dot at the base of the bill. At the end of the walkway, a close inspection of Little Blue in Tricolored Herons was savored, as well as a bathing Reddish Egret giving its best impression of a Muppet while drying off. After leaving the island we tried one more time for the Aplomado Falcons and all of a sudden, there they were. A pair were perched close together on top of one of the platforms put out on the refuge for them to use to nest on. This odd stanchion looked like a square jail, only not to keep something in, but to keep predators out. Just before getting back to the hotel, we stopped in San Benito and successfully found one of the several Limpkin that had recently colonnaded Texas a few months earlier. We watched as one of these birds expertly extracted the meaty innards of giant clams. We also realized that the piles of shells we were standing amongst were likely the result of this expert hunter who had been in this area for quite some time. When the fishing is good, why leave? As the light was waning, a roadside Burrowing Owl was the perfect cherry on top of our sunny day.

The next day we needed to make a big shift and head a couple hours north to Corpus Christi. En route, we made a detour to La Sal del Rey, a portion of the Lower Rio Grande National Wildlife Refuge system. This ancient saline lake has no inlet or outlet. As water from precipitation evaporates it leaves a white salt crust behind creating a beautiful unique landscape. This substrate is perfect for hiding the pale tiny Snowy Plover. This species breeds here, and this time of year can be found in good numbers around the lake’s edges. We lucked into 11 of these entertaining birds chasing each other around and bathing in the overflow from a freshwater spring. Nearby a Say’s Phoebe whistled its presence and maintained hot pursuit of the flies surrounding the wetland. A Pine Warbler stood out glowing yellow among the leafless mesquite tree it was foraging in. Also here, a family of Cactus Wrens were popping in and out of, what else, prickly pear cactus. Their unique “ch ch CH CH ch ch” calls were dually noted, sounding like a car trying to start but never turning over. Just as we were leaving, a few Common Ground Doves flushed from the road and sat still trying to hide in a mesquite, allowing us an extended view of these tiny columbids. Along the dirt road exit, we jumped out to enjoy superb views of an adult White-tailed Hawk perched on a power pole, noting its long wing tips that extended down beyond the tail. At the nearby beef farm, we sorted through a huge flock of blackbirds and added male and female Brewer’s Blackbird to our list. Also here a large white flock contained both Snow and Ross’s Geese. These birds can be tough to ID at a distance, but we were so close it wasn’t hard to differentiate the 2 species with ease. Halfway to Corpus, we stopped at one of the best rest stops in South Texas. Falfurrias has had many rarities over the years and this year was no different. Soon after arriving, Adam spotted a dapper Plumbeous Vireo foraging in a flock over a picnic table. At the other end of the rest stop we added our only Lesser Goldfinches of the trip, singing their high-pitched mimicking songs to no end. We couldn’t stay long here, as we had an exciting bird we were destined to find in the Corpus Christi area. Although we had a target in mind, we had to stop to view some close roadside Sandhill Cranes feeding in a meadow, hopefully, 1 of 2 species of crane we’d see this week. We drove directly into downtown Corpus to the parking lot of my favorite restaurant, only 2 blocks from the hotel we’d be staying in. We watched birders running and followed them to the Cattle Tyrant. This bird hadn’t been recorded north of Panama before, but for some reason had been calling Corpus home since November when it first showed up. After more celebrating, we were off to the coast of Nueces Bay to search for more ocean-related birds. A distant but distinguished Brown Booby flew by a couple of times, displaying its long wings and distinctive flapping style nicely. Down the road by the fishing piers, we were able to track down an adult Iceland Gull that had been hanging around for a while as well. What better place than a bait shop and fishing pier? Smart bird. We ended the day searching around the town of Portland for a reported Bar-tailed Godwit that never showed, but we did get ridiculously good views of shorebirds like Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, Western Sandpipers, and even more Marbled Godwits.

The following morning we headed to Rockport to catch our boat for the day trip to Aransas National Wildlife Refuge. Aransas National Wildlife Refuge is the wintering grounds for about 3/5 of the entire population of Whooping Cranes in the world. The weather finally turned on us and brought with it lots of rain and some wind. Lucky for us water birds don’t care about either. As we motored across Aransas Bay rafts of ducks were either diving or flushing in front of the boat. Groups of Eared Grebes were swimming in unison, small bunches of Red-breasted Mergansers were lifting off well in advance, and Common Loons allowed close approach. At one point there was a group of at least a dozen loons socializing together as we sped by. Pushing through the inclement weather were a couple of Barn Swallows, early arrivals making their way north to their breeding grounds. As we hit the tip of the refuge we noticed dozens of stick nests perfectly placed in the stunted trees. We proceeded to count over 100 Great Blue Herons who were getting ready to utilize these to begin the nesting process in the coming weeks. We hopped onto the Intracoastal Waterway which follows the coastline from the southern tip of Texas up to Massachusetts. The boat slowly crept by various oyster beds and sandy islands filled with coastal birds like resting American Oystercatchers, Ruddy Turnstones, and several “Western” Willets. Flocks of Northern Pintail rested on the island’s shores and droves of Redhead and Lesser Scaup dove in the depths of the channel. There were also several groups of cormorants with both Neotropic and Double-crested sitting side by side giving us great comparative looks. Soon after hitting the waterway, it wasn’t long until we caught a glimpse of our first family group of Whooping Cranes foraging in the tides. Typically these birds stay in small groups of 2 adults and 1 or 2 young as they constantly look for food including the blue crab, a staple food on its wintering grounds. Over the next couple hours, we saw at least 25 of these endangered species, sometimes at very close range from our boat. When pulled up close to the shore we heard the distinctive song of a Seaside Sparrow ringing out from the low growth, just beginning to establish its breeding territory for the coming spring. Brown Pelicans were a constant presence during the boat trip diving from high up on unsuspecting fish, with lesser numbers of American White Pelicans feeding in small groups in the shallow pools of the refuge. It was nice to see the differences in feeding styles of these 2 species that look similar, but feed completely differently. At one of the shallow ponds on the refuge we spotted an adult dark-backed Lesser Black-backed Gull that stood out like a sore thumb all by itself. These gulls used to be pretty rare not that long ago, but have increased their numbers in recent years quite a bit. After we had our fill of Whooping Cranes we returned back across Aransas Bay to Fulton where we had a delicious seafood lunch. The weather was starting to get worse, but we pushed on to find another species we hadn’t seen yet. One of the small parks in Fulton had a nice boardwalk out over a vegetated marsh we explore, and soon we heard the distinctive call of a Couch’s Kingbird. There were several here, and we only knew that when they all came out to distract a Sharp-shinned Hawk that, as a result of the pressure, perched only briefly in view. We took time to note the differences between Couch’s and Tropical Kingbirds, the latter of which we’d seen many times over the last week. We waited in a heavy downpour for the ferry to Port Aransas over to Mustang Island. Luckily because of the bad weather, there was no line. At the northern tip of the Island, we checked the gull flock at the jetty. A couple of tiny uniquely plumaged gulls were hanging out with the larger Herring and Ring-billed Gulls that revealed themselves to be Bonaparte’s Gulls. On the other side of the island, we walked around the elevated walkways at Leonabelle Turnbull Birding Center. This location provides a resting spot for tons of birds and a unique perspective from above with which to view them. A plethora of Long-billed Dowitchers huddled together for warmth in the drizzly conditions, as did a group of Black-necked Stilts. Droves of Green-winged Teal sought refuge on the shores, as did flocks of Northern Shovelers. Common Gallinules walked around the water’s edge, and both Swamp Sparrow and Marsh Wren foraged in the open for good views. One of the Soras here emerged from the marsh and walked out below our feet, a unique perspective of this marsh bird. As a finale we watched a family group of Whooping Cranes feed together in the salt marsh, slowly picking at their feet for any morsels they could find.  After our amazing day, we enjoyed our final Thai dinner and chatted about the trip we’d just experienced. This was truly the most unbelievable week of birding in South Texas I’ve ever been a part of. With so many rarities to distract us, it could have been hard to catch up with the long list of other Lower Rio Grande Valley specialties we also wanted to see. This wasn’t the case at all, as we nailed almost everything we were looking for. This fairytale-like scenario had us pinching ourselves every day, constantly reminding ourselves how much luck we were having. This year will be hard to beat, but I can’t wait to try again next year in this very unique part of the world.

 

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