Day 1: The tour begins this evening with dinner at an airport hotel in Delhi. Night in Delhi.

Day 2: After breakfast we'll drive south to the town of Dholpur, located near the banks of the Chambal River. We will arrive in time for lunch at our palatial accommodation before we head to the river for our boat trip on the Chambal River. Indian Skimmers still breed here, and we should be able to find several of these increasingly rare birds, along with Black-bellied Tern and perhaps Sand Lark. The rare Gharial, Mugger Crocodile, and even Gangetic Dolphin are also found here, and we’ll hope to see all three. 

Our hotel, the Dholpur Palace is a one-of-a-kind, unique example of the Indian fascination for European, and especially Dutch ceramics. Set in 13 acres of garden, the Palace grounds are full of bird life that it shares with the nearby National Chambal Sanctuary. Night at the Raj Niwas Dholpur Palace Hotel. 

Day 3: This morning we’ll take the short drive north to Agra for our visit to the Taj Mahal—“no mere building, but a love immortalized in marble.” Birders should fail to be unmoved by Shah Jahan’s promise to build a tomb that would forever recall the love he shared with Mumtaz Mahal, but we should also enjoy seeing the profusion of raptors over the Taj; not to mention the rich birdlife found on the banks of the Yamuna River. We may encounter Ruddy Shelduck or River Lapwing, while Asian Koel and Brown-headed Barbet can be seen in the leafy gardens. 

In the afternoon we’ll drive to Bharatpur National Park, one of the ornithological wonders of the world. We’ll arrive in time to sample some of the region’s ornithological delights. Night at Bharatpur. 

Days 4-5: Keoladeo National Park, or simply Bharatpur, was originally a vast wetland developed for duck shooting. Coaches are not allowed inside the park, so we’ll explore the 10 square miles by electric buggy and on foot. Birding here is always very rewarding, with the possibility of more than 150 species ranging from Sarus Crane to Small Minivet, from Brown Crake to Eastern Imperial Eagle. Amongst the vast numbers of waterbirds, Black-necked and Painted Storks, Intermediate Egret, and Oriental Darter will vie for our attention as we search for more sought-after species such as Ferruginous and Red-crested Pochards or Greater Painted-snipe. In the trailside trees we’ll look for Marshall’s Iora, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Common Wood-Shrike, White-bellied Drongo, Coppersmith Barbet, and Ashy Prinia. Beneath the bushes the slightest movement could signal a Bluethroat or, with luck, an Orange-headed Thrush or Siberian Rubythroat. In the sky above there might be Greater Spotted Eagle, Red-headed Vulture, or Crested Serpent-Eagle. Dusk may bring us Collared Scops Owl, Dusky Horned Owl, or a nightjar or two. Note that Bharatpur is suffering from a long-term acute water shortage, and although the actual amount of water in the park varies, depending largely on the magnitude of the previous summer’s monsoon, the sanctuary has been very dry for most of the 21st century. Because of this, we might now spend only one full day inside the reserve, and we might visit other sites outside the reserve during our time here. Nights at Bharatpur.

Day 6: Our next destination is the famous Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve. Driving through the open countryside of the Gangetic Plain will be a wonderful introduction to rural India, and we can expect to see Indian Pond Heron, Black-shouldered Kite, Common Peafowl, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Indian Roller, Black Drongo, and Common and Bank Mynas along the way. Arriving around midday, we’ll go straight to our hotel, and in the afternoon we’ll have our first of six safari drives in the reserve in search of the majestic Bengal Tiger. Night at a comfortable lodge outside the Tiger Reserve at Ranthambhore.

Day 7: Ranthambhore is the subcontinent’s most famous and accessible Tiger reserve, and we’ll take a number of drives inside the park during the mornings and early evenings. Our open-topped vehicles will allow excellent views of the wildlife, and we will undoubtedly see good numbers of Spotted Deer, an important prey item for the elusive Tigers. Elusive they may be, but the habitat here is fairly open, and a healthy population ensures that we have a good chance of at least one encounter with this magnificent cat. Ornithological distractions could include Painted Spurfowl, Changeable Hawk-Eagle, and White-naped Woodpecker. Night at Ranthambhore.

Day 8: This will be our second full day in and around Ranthambhore. If we still haven’t seen a Tiger we’ll concentrate our efforts to find one. There are numerous other attractions here as well, including a spectacular ancient fort and a series of bird-thronged lakes. Outside the reserve we have a good chance of finding regional specialties such as the gorgeous Indian Courser and elusive Painted Sandgrouse. Night at Ranthambhore.

Day 9: After a final morning drive in the reserve, we’ll leave Ranthambhore and return to Delhi for an overnight stay to ready for our early morning train trip tomorrow. Night in Delhi. 

Day 10: We’ll leave the hotel very early this morning to catch our train to Kathgodam at the base of the mighty Himalayas. We should arrive around midday, and after lunch we’ll drive to Ramnagar where we’ll search the boulder-strewn river for the rare and increasingly elusive Ibisbill, as well as wintering Wallcreepers. From there we’ll drive up to a delightful lodge just outside Corbett National Park, with superb views across the Kosi River and surrounding dense woodland where we are free to wander on foot. We’ll spend two nights at The Den. 

Day 11: Today we’ll explore the river edge for Brown and Tawny Fish-Owls, Crested Kingfisher, Brown Dipper, and Plumbeous Water and White-capped Redstarts. The surrounding area is full of surprises, and in recent years we have regularly seen Long-billed Thrush and Little Forktail, as well as Rufous-bellied Eagle and Mountain Hawk-Eagle. The many new species possible in the forest could include Collared Falconet, Crested Tree Swift, Hair-crested Drongo, and Orange-bellied Leafbird. Night at The Den.

Day 12: After breakfast we’ll enter the highly scenic Corbett National Park, where Red Junglefowl and Kalij Pheasant are immediate possibilities. The internationally famous Corbett National Park, established for Project Tiger in 1935, covers 200 square miles. The Tigers here can be hard to find, and with vast areas of forest in which to roam, encounters are a bonus as opposed to something one can expect. Exploration on foot is not allowed—indeed, it is possible only in areas adjacent to our lodge or if accompanied by an armed guard. Happily, the park is easily accessible by our open-top jeeps. Located in the Himalayan foothills between 1,300 and 3,500 feet above sea level, the reserve is divided by the River Ram Ganga (which harbors two species of inland crocodile) and offers a variety of habitats from dense jungle and mature forests to open grassland, broad river valleys, and rolling hills. After a fantastic day of birding and game viewing in the park, we’ll then transfer to Dhikuli in preparation for another safari in a different section of the park tomorrow. Night in Dhikuli. 

Day 13: Our game viewing today will be in the Dhela and Jhirna zones of the national park. The wealth and variety of species seems almost inexhaustible: Great Hornbill, Asian Barred Owlet, Slaty-headed Parakeet, Himalayan Swiftlet, Lesser Fish-Eagle, or even Great Thick-knee, Stork-billed Kingfisher, or White-tailed Rubythroat. As well as Tiger, mammals include Indian Elephant, Indian Muntjac, and Hog Deer. Night at Dhikuli.

Day 14: After a final morning exploring the area, we’ll drive to the old colonial-era hill station of Nainital, a journey that takes us along one of the world’s more spectacular mountain roads as we climb into the Kumaon Hills to this delightful “lake city.” We’ll stop along the way to look for birds including Long-tailed Broadbill, Black-throated Jay, Black-throated Bushtit, Blue-capped Redstart, and the stunning Spotted Forktail. Night in Nainital.

Days 15-16: Driving up to the mountain ridge above Nainital we’ll look across to the snow-capped Western Himalayas and the borders of China and Nepal. If the weather is clear, we’ll be able to see Nanda Devi, at 24,500 feet India’s highest peak, from a viewpoint often alive with Oriental Turtle Doves, Chestnut-crowned and White-throated Laughingthrushes, Gray-winged Blackbirds, and Red-flanked Bluetails. The gentle downhill stroll back into town will add many sub-Himalayan species to our list. On walks through the surrounding valleys and forested hills we’ll hope for Hill Partridge, Altai Accentor, White-tailed Nuthatch, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler, Golden Bush-Robin, Yellow-breasted Greenfinch, and Common, Dark-breasted, and Pink-browed Rosefinches. From a nearby mountain lookout, close-passing raptors could include Himalayan Vulture, Lammergeier, and Steppe Eagle while other surprises could include Cheer and Koklass Pheasants, Great Barbet, White-browed Shrike-Babbler or Rufous Sibia. Streaked Laughingthrush is a common or garden bird here, and the numerous wooded gullies and gardens around town can hold many other exciting birds. Recent tours have produced Chestnut Thrush, Fire-fronted Serin, and Russet Sparrow—all within walking distance of our hotel.

On one day we’ll visit the lake at Sattal, passing through coniferous forests, a patchwork of farm fields, and deciduous woodland surrounding the lake. Each of these habitats holds different birds, and highlights on previous visits have included Brown Wood Owl, White-crested and Rufous-chinned Laughingthrushes, Red-billed Leiothrix, Scaly Thrush, Black-throated Accentor, and White-capped Bunting. Nights in Nainital.

Day 17: After a final morning around Nainital, we’ll return to Kathgodam where we’ll take lunch before boarding our afternoon train back to Delhi. Our scheduled arrival is 8:50pm so on our arrival we’ll head straight to our hotel for an optional late dinner. Night in Delhi. 

Day 18: To finish off our birding in this exciting and bird-rich part of the world, we’ll visit Sultanpur, a wildlife reserve close to the capital. Even after nearly three weeks in this fascinating country, there will still be new species to distract us, perhaps including Eastern Orphean Warbler and regional specialties such as Brooks’s Leaf Warbler and Sind Sparrow. Night in Delhi.  

Day 19: The tour concludes with transfers to the airport. 

2025 Narrative

Our trip started in typical Delhi fashion—crowded, chaotic, and slow-moving. Immigration was a mess, and it took nearly an hour just to get through. Once I met up with Gajendra, our guide, we had a long walk to the vehicle, thanks to new airport rules that only allow private cars to the pick-up area. Go figure! From there, it was a half-hour drive to the hotel. The group gathered that evening for a quick meeting and dinner. Everyone seemed eager, and it was clear from the start that we had a solid group.

We headed out the next morning for Agra. The drive was smooth until we reached the city limits, where traffic brought us to a standstill. It took over an hour just to move a few kilometres. By the time we made it to the restaurant, everyone was hungry and more than ready for lunch. We didn’t reach the Taj Mahal until mid-afternoon, and the entrance process was packed and disorganized. Still, once inside, the monument was as impressive as expected, and we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring with a local guide. After that, it was another hour on the road to our hotel near the Chambal River. 

Chambal was our first real birding site, and it delivered. We started with a short walk around the hotel grounds before taking boats along the river. Indian Skimmers, Great Thick-knees, and River and Black-bellied Terns were among the highlights, and we also saw several very impressive Gharials sunning along the banks. After the cruise and a couple of birding stops, we made our way to Bharatpur.

Keoladeo National Park at Bharatpur is always exciting, and we had two full days here. Birding by eRickshaw let us cover plenty of ground, and the species diversity was amazing: Sarus Cranes, Dusky Eagle-Owls, Indian Peafowl, Painted Storks, and many more. One afternoon, we explored a different site outside Agra and had good looks at Bluethroat, Red Avadavat, and Red-headed Bunting—a trip highlight for many in the group. 

Next stop was Ranthambore. The drive to our hotel took most of the day with a couple of birding stops, including a successful search for the scarce Indian Courser as well as Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Isabelline Wheatear, and Tawny Pipit. We checked in to the evocatively named Tiger Den Resort and went out that same afternoon on safari. In Zone 2, we got lucky: a male Bengal Tiger found having a cool dip in the water right next to our vehicle gave us a great show.

Over the next few days, we did multiple safaris across different zones. The birding was fantastic with sightings of Painted Spurfowl, Asian Woolly-necked Stork, Brown Fish-Owl, Crested Serpent Eagles, Jungle Owlets, Plum-headed Parakeets—and we even had a Sloth Bear sighting – a mother with cub, no less! Each morning followed a similar rhythm: early breakfast, safari, midday break, and then another drive in the afternoon. We explored different zones on each outing and each zone seemed to have its own character with different micro habitats.

A huge highlight in Zone 1 was a sighting of an Asiatic Leopard which we watched climb down an escarpment before crossing directly behind our vehicle.  

One mid-morning outing in a dry scrub area produced Painted Sandgrouse, which we flushed but managed to see well in flight. Rufous-fronted Prinias were an added bonus at this very hot and dry site. Some lucky people also glimpsed a rare Indian Fox. 

From Ranthambore, we made the long drive back to Delhi, arriving tired but satisfied. The next morning started early again—this time for a train ride north. The station was hectic as usual, but we boarded without trouble. The five-hour ride passed smoothly, with a tasty breakfast served on board. On arrival in Kothgadam we had lunch near the station and then stopped at the Koshi Barrage and Girija Devi Temple, where we found the remarkable Ibisbill, a key target species. Then came a very bumpy ride in two Gypsies up to our delightful hotel (with its gardens full of birds) in the foothills of Corbett.

We spent the following day exploring the Kumeriya area outside the national park, birding along quiet roads and stopping at a roadside stall for breakfast. A whole new set of bird life greeted us here and we enjoyed some exciting sightings including Little Forktail, the delightfully named Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail, Himalayan Black-lored Tit, and garrulous White-crested Laughingthrushes. A spritely Immaculate Cupwing responded strongly to our enticements and was greeted with lots of camera clicks! 

 On another afternoon, we returned to the temple and picked up the much-hoped-for Wallcreeper—another major trip target. Back at the hotel, we squeezed in some night birding with moderate success in the form of a Brown Boobook. The grounds of the hotel proved to be excellent for birds and we found Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Greenish Warbler, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, and Golden-fronted Leafbird. 

We transferred to Dhikala the next day, deep inside Corbett National Park, and did a full day of birding by jeep. It’s one of the best parts of the trip for combining large mammals and forest birding. We saw Pallas’s Fish Eagles, Kalij Pheasants, Black-necked Stork, Lineated Barbet, Black Redstart, and mammals such as Hog Deer, Indian Muntjac, Tarai Grey Langur, Asian Elephant. One morning game drive to leave the park was especially productive—more birds, better light, and fewer other vehicles. We found Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters, a Collared Falconet, and Grey-winged Blackbirds in a mixed flock with Long-tailed Minivet, White-throated Fantail and Blue-winged Minla.  

From Corbett, we moved on to Nainital, stopping along the way for birding and a visit to the Jim Corbett Museum (which was mostly about souvenir shopping, to be honest). In Nainital, we settled into a more mountainous rhythm. We birded Pangot and the surrounding areas, hitting our highest elevation of the trip. A shout from Gajendra, who’d moved down the road a bit, alerted us to one of the undoubted highlights of our birding journey – a pair of rare and sensational Cheer Pheasants! As we braved the chilly Himalayan morning, we also spotted Upland Pipit and impressively large flocks of Altai Accentors. 

Species spotted at other sites along this winding, mountainous road included Bar-tailed Treecreeper, two more accentors – Rufous-breasted and Black-throated, Pink-browed Rosefinch, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, and Black-throated Tit. At our lunch stop, we were entertained by Black-headed Jays, Streaked Laughingthrushes, and Yellow-breasted Greenfinches. 

The next day we visited Sattal, meaning Seven lakes, an interconnected group of seven freshwater lakes situated in the Lower Himalayan Range near Bhimtal, a town of the Nainital district in Uttarakhand, India. We spent the early morning in a hide, where we had a steady stream of fabulous forest species – Rufous-throated Partridge, Great Barbet, Red-billed Blue-Magpie, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, and hordes of Red-billed Leiothrix. Woodpeckers were exceptionally well represented with Brown-fronted Woodpecker, Lesser Yellownape, Grey-headed Woodpecker, and Greater Yellownape. 

After breakfast by the lake, we met up with Ankit, Gajendra’s friend, who guided us through the rest of the day. Further explorations turned up some more exciting birds including the gorgeous Small Niltava and Ultramarine Flycatcher. Being a local, Ankit had some secret sites including one for a fabulous Brown Wood-Owl, that we were able to observe and photograph at length. At the Chaffi River we were pleased to find Brown Dipper and thrilled to see the super sneaky Chestnut-headed Tesias and Himalayan Rubythroat. 

Traffic on the way back to Nainital was brutal—it was a Sunday—and it took ages to get back to our hotel. But once there we enjoyed a soothing drink at the comfortable, albeit chilly, bar while we did the list. The following morning, we squeezed in one last birding walk on Lands’ End Road before heading back to Kathgodam, where we had a delicious South Indian thali lunch before catching our train to Delhi. Dinner was served on board, and though basic, it was quite tasty. At Land’s End we picked up a sure-footed Goral navigating the almost vertical cliff side as well as a surprise Vinaceous Rosefinch. 

Our final birding destination was Sultanpur National Park. The park itself was closed (Tuesdays), but we birded the surrounding areas and still had a very productive morning with Sarus Cranes, a sad Black-tailed Godwit with a broken bill, Rosy Starlings, Striated Babblers, and Bank Mynas. Highlights of the day were a pair of Moustached Warblers and shy Paddyfield Warblers. A final walk in a very hot, dry field with three very special birds – Indian Bushlark, Delicate Prinia and Sind Sparrow - was a great way to finish off our birding in India!

In just under three weeks, we saw hundreds of species of bird, as well as some sensational mammals, and crossed through multiple ecosystems—from city traffic and riverbanks to scrub plains, tiger forests, and mountain villages. India doesn’t always make it easy, but it always makes it worth it. 

Many thanks to a great group for a most enjoyable birding tour through this remarkable country. I’d also like to extend a special thanks to Gajendra for his assistance, support and expertise; as well as Vinod for his organizational skills that enabled our untroubled journey through the country. 

- Susan Myers

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