Brazil: The Southeast Atlantic Rainforest

Day 1: Our tour begins at 6:30 pm this evening in São Paulo. Night in São Paulo.

Days 2–4: Leaving Sao Paulo early we should arrive at Intervalles State Park around mid-day. We’ll spend the rest of the afternoon and the following two full days at and near Intervales State Park, one of the loveliest remaining patches of Mata Atlântica forest. Once a private logging property, it is now well protected and visited by tourists, who mostly want to see the various waterfalls and caves and are oblivious to the marvelous biodiversity. We’ll find many species here, and because our lodge is located amid the rich forest we’ll have a chance for Red-breasted Toucan, Robust Woodpecker and Azure-shouldered Tanager right on the grounds. The electric pings of Bare-throated Bellbirds and the jerky whistles of Hooded Berryeaters ring across the valleys, and the downward tinklings of White-browed Warblers give this enchanting forest a character unlike no other. The numerous other specialties here could include White-bearded and Giant Antshrikes, Swallow-tailed Cotinga, Squamate Antbird, Solitary Tinamou, Red-and-white Crake, Rufous-tailed Attila, and Violet-crowned Plovercrest. If we’re very lucky, we’ll at least hear the elusive Spotted Bamboowren, an extremely secretive little bird. Nights near Intervales State Park.

Day 5: We will need a few hours’ drive to reach the coastal little village of Cananeia. The coastal habitats at the southern end of São Paulo state are very different from the tropical forest of Intervales and from the habitats we will see letter on the tour; the sandy soils and lower hills do not trap as much moisture, resulting in a shorter, denser forest. Some special birds are found here, such as Azure Jay, Restinga Tyrannulet, Red-tailed Parrot and Black-backed Tanager, and we’ll spend the afternoon in search of them. Scanning the mangroves and the coastal mudflats, we also have a chance to find Scarlet Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Little Blue Heron or a Broad-snouted Caiman, Night in Cananeia. 

Day 6: After some early morning looking for restinga specialties near Cananeia, we’ll spend much of the day in our vehicles, though there will certainly be some roadside stops on the northward drive along the entire coastline of São Paulo state. Night in Ubatuba. 

Day 7: The Serra do Mar is a coastal range of hills still largely cloaked in a gorgeous wet forest, in many places dropping right down to the sea. It teems with regional and Brazilian endemics, and we’ll visit a couple of private conservation areas that are perhaps the best locations to find Buff-throated Purpletuft, a little treetop percher related to tityras and found only in this part of Brazil. Ferruginous and Scaled Antbirds live in the understory, along with Gray-hooded Flycatcher, Pin-tailed Manakin, and Spot-backed Antshrike. One scheduled stop is a private home open to birders wanting to see an incredible display of hundreds of hummingbirds. Festive Coquette and Saw-billed Hermit are ones of the highlights, and we may be lucky enough to see Frilled Coquette as well. Night in Ubatuba. 

Day 8: After a second morning birding around Ubatuba, looking for the species we might have missed earlier, we’ll drive along the scenic coast of Rio de Janeiro state. Night in Parque Mambucaba.

Day 9: Very few roads pass through habitat within the miniscule range of the Black-hooded Antwren, and one is just down the street from our hotel. We’ll bird here for a few hours, perhaps also seeing Gray-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Long-tailed Tyrant, Chestnut-crowned Becard, Lemon-chested Greenlet, and Green-headed Tanager, among many others. After lunch we will continue to our base for the next three nights, a comfortable lodge nestled in Itatiaia National Park, an extensive protected forest and the oldest national park in the country. Our first walk this afternoon might result in more of Brazil’s attractive endemics, perhaps a White-collared Foliage-gleaner or Golden-chevroned or Gilt-edged Tanager, among more widespread birds such as Yellow-legged Thrush and Swallow-tailed Manakin. Night in Itatiaia National Park.

Days 10–11: Itatiaia National Park covers a large section of the Serra da Mantiqueira, a mountainous spine in the interior of Rio de Janeiro state whose lush fern and bamboo forests are home to many endemic species. The stands of bamboo host secretive Fork-tailed Pygmy-Tyrants, moist draws have skulking Slaty Bristlefronts with their odd pinging call, and fruiting trees attract guans, tanagers, and cotingas. On one day we’ll drive to the higher elevations of the park to look for the adorable Green-crowned Plovercrest and very local Itatiaia Spinetail, as well as the sometimes-difficult Black-capped Piprites, here near the edge of its range. There will be more relaxed birding at the lodge feeders, where we should see Olive-green and Green-headed Tanagers, Brazilian Ruby and Black Jacobin, and many others. Nights in Itatiaia National Park. 

Day 12: According to the weather forecast and the species we may still be looking for in the area, we can decide to spend an extra morning at Itatiaia, or to start our drive to Reserva Ecologica de Guapiaçu (REGUA) to enjoy some nice afternoon birding there. Night in REGUA.

Day 13: The Reserva Ecologica de Guapiaçu (REGUA) is a private reserve established in 2001 protecting 8,000 hectares of tropical forest from 30 to 2,000 meters elevation. We’ll walk around these bird-filled areas looking for Rufous-sided Crake, White-barred Piculet, Bland-crested Woodpecker, Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike, White-flanked (Silvery-flanked) Antwren, White-headed Marsh-Tyrant, and so many more! After a lunch in REGUA, it will be now time to head towards our last destination, the beautiful Itororó Lodge. Night Itororó Lodge Near Nova Friburgo.

Days 14–15: The feeders at Itororó will be hard to leave—the Brassy-breatsed Tanagers, White-throated Hummingbirds, and Maroon-bellied Parakeets are great fun to watch—but there are several areas harboring species with very small ranges that will draw us away from the lodge. One is home to the very local Three-toed Jacamar, whose neighbors might include White-eared Puffbird, Streamer-tailed Tyrant, Firewood Gatherer, and Biscutate Swift. Another is Pico da Caledônia, an impressive granite dome with a strange flora dominated by cliff-hugging bromeliads and a forest below that supports Black-and-gold Cotinga, the very rare Gray-winged Cotinga, the endearing Serra do Mar Tyrannulet, Spix’s Spinetail, and Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, among others. Nights in Nova Friburgo.

Day 16: After a final relaxing morning and a farewell lunch on the grounds of our lodge we’ll leave for the Rio de Janeiro International Airport, arriving in time for late afternoon/evening flights homeward.

2024 Narrative

Frilled Coquette

Fabrice Schmitt

So many endemic birds – either stunningly beautiful or with fascinating and evocative vocalizations – made our tour of the Atlantic rainforests of Brazil’s São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro states memorable and fun. Ridiculously colorful tanagers and sparkling hummingbirds vied for our attention, skulking antbirds and gnateaters teased us, and feeders made for some easy birding. The sounds of several Bare-throated Bellbirds echoing across the hillsides, with Hooded Berryeater and White-browed Warbler ringing through the forest, provided for a sensation that isn’t repeated anywhere else in South America. We tallied an impressive 360 species of birds, as well as many interesting plants, insects, reptiles, and other critters. 

We voted on some of the best birds of the trip, which included the incredible female Giant Antshrike seen on our last morning at Itororo, a beautiful male Long-trained Nightjar posing in the open just a few meters from us, a lovely Frilled Coquette visiting the Lantana flowers and feeders at Itatiaia, a close pair of Spot-billed Toucanet at Itororo, the display of male Purple-crowned Plovercrest at Intervalles, several sightings of the fantastic Blond-crested Woodpecker, and an incredible encounter with the unique Black-billed Scythebill! 

Our eBird trip report with many pictures from participants can be found here: https://ebird.org/tripreport/287768

 And some of the bugs and plants photographed during the trip can be seen here: https://www.inaturalist.org/projects/wings-southeast-brazilian-forests-2024

 We met in Sao Paolo. Some arrived early and enjoyed a city tour, learning some historical and cultural aspects of this impressive city. After an introductory meeting, we enjoyed our first Brazilian buffet, and went to bed dreaming at all the exciting birds we’d soon find! It took us a full morning to drive from Sao Paulo to Ribeirao Grande and then Paraiso Ecolodge, our base for visiting Intervalles National Park. On the way, we made a stop at a known stake-out where we enjoyed great views of our first Guira Cuckoo and Campo Flicker, a small group of Yellow-rumped Marshbirds, and the lovely Masked Water-Tyrant.  

Paraiso Ecolodge is a very unique and beautiful place surrounded by spectacular pristine forest. We could spend days birding only the lodge grounds and access road. Azure-shouldered, Golden-chevroned and Green-headed Tanagers, together with Chestnut-bellied Euphonia, Ruby-crowned Tanager, Yellow-fronted Woodpecker and Rufous-bellied Thrush were all visiting the fruit feeders. The colorful Red-breasted Toucan is common here, and they were gathering in groups every evening. On the lodge grounds we also found White-spotted Woodpecker, Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner and Rufous-capped Spinetail, Gray-capped and Rough-legged Tyrannulet, Rufous-headed Tanager, Sibilant Sirystes and Golden-winged Cacique. Bare-throated Bellbird and Hooded Berryeater calls were heard all day long, and we had superb scope views of both species! We also found a beautiful male Swallow-tailed Manakin feeding on berries on the roadside, while many others were displaying deeper in the forest. A Sharpbill made a short appearance, and two Greenish Schiffornis were attracted in. In the evening, we also had excellent views of Short-tailed Nighthawk, but only glimpsed a Long-tufted Screech-Owl. 

Blessed by beautiful weather, our days birding at Intervalles National Park were absolutely amazing! Helped by Luiz and Gerson, two local guides, we found an impressive list of fantastic birds, including Squamate Antbird, Spot-backed and White-bearded Antshrikes, Ochre-rumped, Ferruginous and Dusky-tailed Antbirds, White-collared and Black-capped Foliage-gleaners, Lesser and White-throated Woodcreepers, Blond-crested Woodpeckers, Star-throated Antwren, Pacific Royal Flycatcher, Rufous-tailed and Gray-hooded Attilas, Atlantic Black-throated Trogon, Spot-breasted Antvireo, Oustalet’s and Bay-ringed Tyrannulets, and Red-necked Tanager, just to name a few. Our guides were also feeding Red-and-white Crake and Solitary Tinamou. It was such a treat to see these extremely secretive species from only a few meters away, and in the open! We also had cracking views of a very cooperative Rusty-breasted Nunlet, as well as a Rufous-capped Antthrush singing on an exposed branch. Even a Slaty Bristlefront showed well. We also enjoyed a displaying male Purple-crowned Plovercrest, singing from its perch at a known lek. But the most amazing sighting was probably a male Blue-bellied Parrot ‘singing’ in great view for a few minutes, or maybe a Pileated Parrot, another very rare parrot, feeding on fruits just a few meters from us. What an amazing place! 

After spending some wonderful time in mid-elevation rainforest, we headed to the coast to visit some restinga low-stature forest. It took us a full morning to reach the coast, but by leaving early we were in Cananeia for lunch. It was a driving morning, but on the way, we found a most-wanted Red-legged Seriema as well as a pair of White-rumped Monjita. After lunch at our countryside hotel, we spent the whole afternoon birding the nearby restinga forest. We quickly found one of the specialties here: Restinga Tyrannulet. This was followed by great views of the stunning Black-backed Tanager, as well as Ochre-collared Piculet, Variegated Flycatcher, Brazilian Tanager, Small-headed Elaenia, Variable Antshrike and a lovely singing male Double-collared Seedeater. After mid-afternoon, the Red-tailed Parrots started to be more active, probably already moving towards their night-roosts. Cananeia is a known location for this rare parrot, whose total population is estimated around 6,000 birds (thankfully increasing recently, perhaps because of a decrease in the trapping pressure for the pet market), and we had great views of this species, including some nice scope views. In a nearby mangrove stand we also enjoyed views of Scarlet Ibis, nesting Bare-faced Ibis, Black-crowned Night-Heron, an Amazon Kingfisher and Magnificent Frigatebird. A great fish and seafood dinner nicely capped this lovely day.  

Anticipating a long driving day the next day, we had a pre-breakfast walk near our hotel. We enjoyed very close views of Black Vulture, Great Egret and Black-crowned Night-Herons at the fish market. We also spotted a Black Skimmer, two Roseate Spoonbills and a Little Blue Heron. We found a pair of Yellow-bellied Elaenia and a cute Southern Beardless Tyrannulet was building its nest in some hanging epiphytes. 

The long drive to Ubatuba actually went faster than expected, and we arrived on time to visit Jonas’s amazing Garden at Folha Seca. Jonas is one of those incredible people you can meet through birding. He runs one of the most amazing hummingbirds feeding station in Brazil, attracting hundreds of them, but also has fruit feeders attracting tanagers, and beehives for wild bees, and is a great fan of Brassens, one of the most popular French singers! We were overwhelmed by dozens of Black Jacobins, Festive Coquettes, Saw-billed Hermits, Emerald and Glittering-throated Emeralds. In smaller number we also found Amethyst Woodstar, White-chinned Sapphire, Black-throated Mango and even a single Sombre Hummingbird. Attracted to the bananas, we also had close views of Brazilian, Green-headed, Swallow and Red-necked Tanagers. Thanks to the great evening light, we had amazing photographic opportunities here, and time went by very quickly. It was time to end our drive to Ubatuba, where we stayed two nights. 

We had a full day and a half to bird the fantastic secondary-growth lowland forest of Fazenda Angelim near Ubatuba. There, we found numerous fantastic birds including cracking views of a Black-cheeked Gnateater, Scaled and Ferrugineous Antbird, Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant, Fork-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant, Unicolored Antwren, White-barred Piculet, Rufous-margined Antwren, White-necked Hawk and Robust Woodpecker. Luckily, the bamboo was seeding, attracting some rare nomadic species such as Temminck’s and Buffy-fronted Seedeaters as well as Sooty Grassquit; very common by voice, we had good views of these three species. The breeding season was at its peak, and we found several species building their nests, such as Whiskered (Yellow-rumped) Flycatcher, Orange-eyed Thornbird and Crested Becard. We also had incredibly good views of both White-bearded and Swallow-tailed Manakins at their lek, performing their unique display dances! Finally, we also had excellent scope views of the endemic and endangered Buff-throated Purpletuft! On our way to Parque Mambucaba we stopped for lunch at the picturesque fishing harbor of Praia Grande, patrolled by dozens of Magnificent Frigatebird. At ‘Quiosco Sao Francisco’ restaurant we had a delicious meal of grilled fish or Moqueca, a Brazilian stew of fish or shrimps with coconut milk. 

With a full afternoon and morning to explore the surroundings of Parque Mambucaba, we had plenty of time to look for the beautiful, endemic (and endangered) Black-hooded Antwren. It took us more time than usual, but we finally got excellent views of this beautiful bird. Looking for the antwren, we also found plenty of other great birds, such as a male Tufted Antshrike singing just on the roadside, a Rufous-capped Motmot, a lovely pair of Chestnut-backed Antshrike, a Yellow-olive Flatbill building its hanging nest, Channel-billed Toucan, Green-backed Trogon, Lemon-chested Greenlet, Yellow-browed Tyrant and Rufous-tailed Jacamar. The hotel grounds were very productive too, and just walking from our rooms we found a very cooperative Gray-cowled Wood-Rail, Long-billed Wren, a pair of Yellow-bellied Elaenia, a pair of Masked Water-Tyrant performing their great display, as well as Southern Lapwings with chicks and a Buff-necked Ibis. 

We then left the scenic coast, driving inland to Itatiaia National Park, arriving at our hotel in the late afternoon. After checking-in, we still had time to bird the feeders and ground, enjoying close views of Black Jacobin, Brazilian Ruby, Frilled Coquette, and Scaly-throated Hermit, as well as Olive-green Tanager, Cliff and Short-billed Flycatchers, Dusky-legged Guans, numerous White-eyed Parakeets and a pair of Blue-winged Macaw.

We spent our first day at Itatiaia walking from the lodge, birding the garden, the access road, the Purus trail towards an abandoned hotel, and (obviously) enjoying the amazing feeders. We found lots of fantastic birds today, including excellent views of a singing White-bibbed Antbird, Ferruginous and Ochre-rumped Antbirds, White-shouldered Fire-eye, a close Plain-winged Woodcreeper, a singing Large-headed Flatbill, a cute Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, several Red-breasted Toucans, and a pair of Pallid Spinetail. We also had great views of Half-collared Sparrow and the secretive Slaty Bristlefront. We even glimpsed two Such’s Antthrushes, and Johnny impressed us spotting two great birds: a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl standing quietly on a dead tree, and a beautiful male of Swallow-tailed Cotinga. 

For our second day at Itatiaia, we went higher in elevation, birding the road toward Agulhas Negras. In the grassy areas with patches of bamboo we quickly found the endemic Itatiaia Spinetail, a bird you don’t want to miss when visiting Itatiaia! From this highest point, we birded downhill along the main road, finding Velvety Black-Tyrant, Buff-throated Warbling-Finch, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Serra do Mar Tyrannulet as well as Tyrant-Manakin, a few Rufous-tailed Antbirds, a Rufous-backed Antvireo, the lovely Shear-tailed Gray-Tyrant, Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, Thick-billed Saltator, Brown-breasted Pygmy-Tyrant and Gray-caped Tyrannulet. We even found a male Green-crowned Plovercrest at its lek, singing continuously from its perch, and the stunning Black-capped Piprites, one of the most beautiful birds of the day. But, today’s winner of the bird of the day contest was a stunning male Black-and-gold Cotinga, impressing us as much by its plumage as with its song! 

We had a last morning birding around Hotel do Ypê, finding a few new species such as Saffron Toucanet and Blue-naped Chlorophonia but also enjoying the numerous species we have already seen. We had great views of Eared Pygmy-Tyrant, Rufous-margined Antwren, Seppia-capped Flycatcher and a pair of Rufous-tailed Attila.

Leaving mid-morning and eating lunch along the way, we arrived at Reserva Ecologica de Guapiaçu (REGUA) mid-afternoon. Welcomed by Thomas, we quickly checked-in our lovely accommodation and started to bird the ground of this fantastic place. REGUA is a private reserve established in 2001 and protects 20,000 acres of tropical forest from 30 to 2,000 meters elevation. It is amazing how quickly a cow pasture can turn into a beautiful secondary growth forest filled with birds! In the evening light, we enjoyed our walk along the nearby wetland, finding White-faced and Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks, a large colony of breeding Western Cattle Egret in full breeding plumage, a great comparison of Boat-billed Heron and Black-crowned Night-Heron perched side-by-side, the lovely Chestnut-capped Blackbird and White-headed Marsh-Tyrant, a Crane Hawk flying close and a Rufous-sided Crake coming to the tape. At the end of our walk, we had two Red-breasted Toucans calling close to our trail, and we even spotted a singing Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl mobbed by a few tanagers! 

Thomas then took us to a wet field, where we waited for night, with the hope to hear Giant Snipes. Meantime we found Yellowish Pipit, Wing-banded Hornero and Grassland Sparrow. Blackish Rail and Ash-throated Crakes were singing from the marsh. We heard at least two Giant Snipes calling for a while, and suddenly they started displaying overhead! What a show to have half a dozen of these rare and local snipes displaying from the sky, diving to produce their unique noise by vibrating their external rectrices. We couldn’t end better this day than with a good Caipirinha and great dinner. 

With a full morning at REGUA, we were able to explore part of their extensive trail system We had excellent views of a Southern Antpipit singing just a few meters from us, Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike, a few (soon-to-be-split?) White-flanked (Silvery-flanked) Antwren, Black-capped Donacobius, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Hooded and Yellow-backed Tanagers, Purple-throated Euphonia and Ochre-bellied Flycatcher. We also enjoyed views of old friends such as Chestnut-backed Antshrike, Rufous-capped Motmot and Rufous-tailed Jacamar. 

After lunch at REGUA, we headed to our last accommodation, the fantastic lodge of Itororo near Nova Friburgo. Welcomed by Reiner and his sister Betina, we checked in our lovely rooms and enjoyed the terrace with feeders. While enjoying cake and coffee, we had close views of the beautiful Brassy-breasted, Golden-chevroned and Magpie Tanagers, Marron-bellied Parakeets, Blue Dacnis and White-throated Hummingbirds, all coming to the feeders. On a short walk on one of the many trails of the lodge, we found Bertoni’s and Ochre-rumped Antbird, a Drab-breasted Pygmy-Tyrant, a pair of Surucua Trogon and the beautiful and rare Chestnut-headed Tanager. 

During our time at Itororo, we spent a full morning at Pico do Caledonia, a peak topping at 2,250 meters (7,400 feet) to the west of Nova Friburgo. There, we found some of the birds we’d seen at this elevation at Itatitaia, such as Rufous-tailed Antbird, Black-and-gold Cotinga, Diademed Tanager and Serra do Mar Bristle-Tyrant. This is also the place to find the extremely localized and rare Gray-winged Cotinga. It took lots of patience and perseverance, waiting in front of a pair of fruiting trees, but we finally had prolonged and excellent views of this rare bird. Fantastic! 

We spent another morning in the Duas Barras and Sumidouro area. Making several stops on the way, in mostly open agricultural fields, we added several great birds to our already very long list: Streamer-tailed Tyrant, an impressive Toco Toucan, Rufous-fronted Thornbird and well-named Firewood Gatherer (the latter two both build massive nests of wood sticks), Savannah Hawk, Burrowing Owl, Chopi Blackbird, Brazilian Teal, Blue-winged Macaw, and even a pair of the lovely White-eared Puffbird! Just before lunch we also stopped at a known stake out where we had excellent views of the rare and local Three-toed Jacamar. 

In the afternoons, we spent time birding the lodge grounds, feeders and trails. In addition to the numerous birds we had seen previously on the tour, we also found a close and beautiful White-browed Woodpecker at eye level, a lovely Green-backed Becard in the lodge garden, a displaying pair of Black Hawk Eagle, and a pair of Swallow-tailed Cotinga from the lodge terrace. At dusk we had Short-tailed Nighthawks put on a fantastic show, followed by a superb sighting of a sublime male Long-trained Nightjar just a few meters from us! 

On our last morning, we had a final walk along the trail system before checking-out and heading to the airport, finding some great birds like a displaying Gray-headed Kite, a pair of Rufous Gnateater and a cooperative White-breasted Tapaculo. And for sure we will all remember the incredible encounter with a female Giant Antshrike jumping around us and finally standing in the open, followed by a pair of Spot-billed Toucanet. What a great way to end this fantastic tour! 

-Fabrice Schmitt

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