Uganda: Shoebills to Gorillas

Day 1: You'll be met on arrival in Entebbe and transferred to our hotel. Depending on flight arrival times, the introductory meeting may take place this evening, or at breakfast on Day 2.

Day 2: After an early breakfast, we’ll depart for the Mbamba Wetlands, a locally protected marsh area of Lake Victoria and home to the magnificent Shoebill. We have a very good chance of locating one or more of these birds standing motionless among the papyrus, as well as an excellent selection of waterbirds. This is a weaver paradise, and we should find Golden-backed, Slender-billed, Northern Brown-throated, Village, Vieillot’s, Black-headed, and Grosbeak, and—if we are really fortunate—the very llocal, near endemic Weyn’s Weaver. Other species here include Great Blue Turaco, Black-and-White Casqued Hornbill, and an impressive collection of swallows. All in all, it should be an excellent introduction to birding in Uganda. Later we’ll continue north to Masindi for our overnight stay, with several stops along the way where we may find Saddle-billed Stork, White-crested Turaco and a variety of widowbirds and bishops. Night in Masindi.

Day 3: We’ll depart for the renowned Murchison Falls National Park, locally known as Kabalega Falls. On the way we‘ll stop to look for Puvel’s Illadopsis in the Kaniyo Pabidi section of Budongo Forest where there is a small and disjunct population of this bird, which is typically found far to the west of Africa. Soon after we enter the National Park, it will be worth checking the gate for a large, bright, orange-and-velvety-black agama, a fairly newly described species of Old-World lizard Agama finchi or Finch’s Agama, named after our leader. We’ll drive slowly and bird as we head to our accommodation, stopping to picnic along the way. Night at Murchison Falls National Park.

Day 4: During our time at the Park, we’ll drive a track which heads along the Victoria Nile river towards the Lake Albert delta where the west-flowing Victoria Nile makes an abrupt turn and becomes the north-flowing Albert Nile. In the afternoon we’ll take a boat to the foot of Murchison Falls, where the mighty Nile is squeezed through a twenty-three-foot gap. An abundance of waterbirds occupy the well-wooded banks of the river. We'll also hope to see include the well-named Goliath Heron, Hamerkop on their enormous stick nests, yodeling African Fish-Eagle, and the regal Grey Crowned-Crane, which is Uganda’s National bird. Senegal Thick-knee, Long-toed and Spur-winged Lapwings, African Jacana, and African Skimmers all rest on sandbanks, and riverine vegetation provides perches for solitary and stately Giant and the gem-like Malachite Kingfishers. Burrows in the cliffs represent colonies of astounding Red-throated Bee-eaters or vociferous Pied Kingfishers, interestingly the world’s only socially nesting Kingfisher. With luck we may see the rare Pel’s Fishing-Owl, as well as the dashing Red-necked Falcon that frequents the palm trees lining the riverbanks. In addition to the profusion of birds, we’ll see large numbers of the impressive Nile crocodile, hippopotamus, African buffalo, vervet monkey and olive baboon at close range, and herds of African elephants sometimes bathe in the river shallows. The scenic area north of the Nile holds a number of birds typical of dry savanna and we‘ll search here for Abdim’s Stork, Secretary Bird, Black-breasted Snake-Eagle, Shikra, Dark Chanting-Goshawk, Heuglin’s Francolin, Black-headed Lapwing, with both Swallow-tailed and Northern Carmine Bee-eaters, Black Scimitar-bill, Black-backed Cisticola, Shelley’s Rufous Sparrow, and Black-faced Quailfinch. A few birds—with their ranges centered on the Sahel region to the north—reach their southern limits here including the ponderous Abyssinian Ground-Hornbill, Vinaceous Dove, scarce White-fronted Black-Chat, excitable Red-winged Grey Warbler and somber White-rumped Seedeater. Mammals are well represented and we’ll watch for the shy patas monkey, bushbuck, Rothschild’s giraffe, Uganda kob, oribi, Jackson’s hartebeest, and Defassa waterbuck. This is also one of the best places in Uganda to find lions. The moist, grassy woodland to the south of the Nile is very different from that of the north bank and supports a host of localized birds including the unusually proportioned Purple Glossy-Starling, Red-winged Pytilia, Black-bellied Firefinch, Cabanis’s Bunting, Red-headed Quelea, and, if we are fortunate, White-breasted Cuckooshrike and Yellow-bellied Hyliota. Night at Murchison Falls National Park.

Day 5: We’ll bird our way back to Masindi but by a different route to that of our arrival, and our goal is to reach the Butiaba escarpment overlooking the mighty Lake Albert. This area holds a number of interesting species including Black-billed Barbet, Lesser Blue-eared Starling, Green-backed Eremomela, Foxy Cisticola, Flappet Lark and Mocking Cliff-Chat.  From here we’ll drive slowly on our way back to Masindi, birding as we go.  Night in Masindi.

Day 6: We’ll depart for a full day to the Royal Mile section of the Budongo Forest Reserve, a wide forestry track considered to be Uganda’s premier forest birding location. It’s certainly rich in birds but many are concealed in the forest’s dense undergrowth, and others live in the high canopy, requiring our perseverance to spot them. We’ll also investigate more open habitat in cultivated areas, where an entirely different range of species may be found. Among the many we hope to find are White-spotted Flufftail, Blue Malkoha, three species of forest kingfisher—Chocolate-backed, Blue-breasted and Dwarf, impressive White-thighed Hornbill, barbets including Hairy-breasted and Yellow-billed, cryptic Green Hylia, Grey and Yellow Longbills, and local specialties Rufous-crowned Eremomela, Lemon-bellied Crombec, African Forest-Flycatcher, Chestnut-capped Flycatcher and Ituri Batis. Other birds to find include Purple-headed Glossy-Starling, the aberrant Grey-headed Sunbird, Yellow-mantled Weaver, and Crested Malimbe. Greenbuls are abundant, and we’ll work slowly through any flock that we encounter, looking for Honeyguide, Red-tailed, and the striking Spotted. The near endemic and spectacular Nahan’s Partridge is often heard but requires luck and patience to see. We’ll search the undergrowth alongside the track for numerous understory skulkers, which may include three Illadopsis species, Fire-crested Alethe, Red-tailed Ant-Thrush, Yellow-browed Camaroptera, and Grey-throated Flycatcher. We’ll keep an eye on any openings in the forest canopy, as Cassin’s and Crowned Hawk-eagles, and Cassin’s, Mottled, and Sabine’s Spinetails are all possible. Spinetails occasionally drink from a nearby forest pond, and here we’ll also hope to find a pair of brilliant Shining-blue Kingfishers. Night in Masindi.

Day 7: We’ll visit a different part of Budongo Forest where we’ll search particularly for species we missed yesterday, and given the huge variety of species in Budongo, we’ll certainly have missed a number. Night in Masindi.

Day 8: Departing immediately after breakfast, we’ll set off on the long drive to the Kibale Forest. While there may be odd stops along the way this is by necessity a driving day. In the afternoon, as we arrive on the outskirts of Fort Portal and pass through the highest section of the Kibale Forest, we’ll look for species not encountered elsewhere such as Joyful Greenbul, Masked Apalis, as well as the hyperactive Tiny Sunbird, and Narrow-tailed Starling. In addition we have at least a chance of hearing Olive Long-tailed Cuckoo. As we get closer to our accommodation, and if time permits, we’ll bird along the road until dusk. Night in Kibale Forest National Park.

Day 9: Our two major targets for today are an early morning search for the very rare Green-breasted Pitta and an afternoon forest trek for chimpanzees (see ** below). The towering Kibale Forest has the highest primate concentration and species diversity of any reserve in East Africa. Primate highlights might include the localized Central African red colobus monkey, L’Hoest’s monkey (Uganda’s rarest monkey), and the scruffy grey-cheeked mangabey. In addition, our chances of finding chimpanzees here are excellent. The birds are typical of medium-altitude forest, with some good mixed species flocks and specials such as Afep and the globally threatened and rarely encountered White-naped Pigeon, Red-chested Owlet, White-headed Woodhoopoe, Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher, African Shrike-flycatcher, Superb, Green-throated, and Green-headed Sunbirds and Chestnut Wattle-eye. Greenbuls are well represented and includes the scarce Toro Olive among the more widespread forest species. Dusky Long-tailed Cuckoos hide well but are a noisy forest inhabitant and Grey Parrots frequently feed in roadside trees here. Night in Kibale Forest National Park.

Day 10: We’ll travel to Bigodi, a swamp forest reserve managed by the local community to protect the primates and birds living in this area. It abounds in birds from the very large Black-and-White Casqued Hornbill, Ross’s and Black-billed Turacos, and Eastern Grey Plantain-eater to the very small with many sunbird species, estrildid finches, and various warblers. As we walk the only trail that circumnavigates the swamp, we’ll hope for good views of Brown-eared, Buff-spotted, and Yellow-crested Woodpeckers, dazzling Double-toothed and unusual Grey-throated Barbets, as well as their smaller cousins—Yellow-throated and Speckled Tinkerbirds. Hopefully, we’ll also spot the comical Black-and-White Shrike-Flycatcher noisily protecting its territory, as well as the furtive Snowy-crowned and Blue-shouldered Robin Chats and the conspicuous Vieillot’s Black and Yellow-backed Weavers. From here we have a relatively short drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park (QEP) and will arrive at our lodge in the afternoon, having  explored the local bushland. Night at Mweya Safari Lodge, QEP.

Day 11: After early breakfast overlooking the alluring Kazinga Channel, we’ll depart for the morning’s birding in the spectacular crater lakes area in the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains and for the main game-viewing area along the Kasenyi track. A few of the species that are possible here include Bateleur, arguably Africa’s most spectacular raptor, Grey Kestrel, Red-necked Spurfowl, Common and the rarely encountered Black-rumped Buttonquail, African Crake, Senegal Lapwing, the marsh-dwelling Black Coucal, Rufous-naped, Red-capped, and the scarce White-tailed Larks. Of the ten species of cisticolas we’ll look and listen for Croaking, Wing-snapping, Trilling, Carruther’s and Stout. In rank grass we may find Marsh Tchagra and in reed beds Southern Red Bishop. Mammals will also be a highlight of today’s excursion, and we’ll have a good chance of finding lion, leopard, spotted hyena, African elephant, African buffalo, Ugandan kob, bushbuck, hippopotamus, common warthog, and with some extra luck the spectacular giant forest hog. We’ll return to our lodge for lunch, then embark on our launch trip on the Kazinga Channel. Highlights of the voyage include our close (and safe) approach to African buffalo and hippopotami, as well as to numerous waterbirds. Among a multitude of others, we’ll hope to find African Open-billed, Yellow-billed, Saddle-billed, and Marabou Storks, Glossy Ibis, Wattled Lapwing, Water Thick-knee, Swamp Flycatcher, and Lesser Swamp Warbler, as well as several species of gulls, terns, and pelicans. Night at Mweya Safari Lodge, QEP.

Day 12: If conditions allow, we’ll drive through the extensive southern Ishasha section of Queen Elizabeth National Park. We’ll likely see a large variety of savanna bird and mammal species, and we may be fortunate in sighting the area’s famous tree-climbing lions. We’ll have our picnic lunch at Ishasha where we can start on our Democratic Republic of the Congo bird list while gazing over the narrow, shallow river! Finally, we’ll reach the headquarters of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Buhoma. Night in Buhoma.

NOTE: Days 13 and 14 may be reversed depending on space availability for gorilla permits

Day 13: We’ll walk the Buhoma trail for the entire day. This is a particularly beautiful piece of forest in the valley, and our walking is on a mainly flat and well-maintained broad path. Species we’ll hope to encounter include Western Bar-tailed Trogon, rarely seen Oberlander’s Ground-Thrush, White-bellied Robin-Chat, Red-throated Alethe, White-bellied Crested-Flycatcher, Bocage’s Bushshrike, Northern Double-collared Sunbird, Black-billed Weaver, and Magpie Mannikin. High exposed perches are favored by the dazzling Black Bee-eater, Blue-throated Roller, Sooty Flycatcher, and forest starlings including Waller’s, Stuhlmann’s and Narrow-tailed, while the tiny, vocal and highly secretive Neumann’s Warbler is buried in the undergrowth! Other understory birds could include African Broadbill, Banded Prinia, and the surprisingly bright male Black-faced Rufous-Warbler. The mid-story and canopy support Elliot’s and Fine-banded Woodpeckers, Cabanis’s, Shelley’s, and Ansorge’s Greenbuls, the strange Grauer’s Warbler, and White-browed Crombec. The tiny Jameson’s Antpecker can be found at any level, probing under moss on dead branches or gleaning warbler-like in the canopy. Overhead, Scarce Swift forages over the forest. Other wildlife that we may be fortunate enough to find includes the huge yellow-backed duiker antelope, Guereza colobus, L’Hoest’s, blue and red-tailed monkeys, as well as chimpanzees. We’ll also no doubt find several species of squirrel, including fire-footed rope, Carruther’s’ mountain and Ruwenzori sun. Both the exceptional birding and the sightings of exotic mammals make visiting Buhoma truly memorable. Night in Buhoma.

Day 14: Today is devoted to an optional but unforgettable trek to see Eastern Mountain Gorillas in their mountain refuge (see * below). This adventure could take anywhere from three to six hours in the field, depending on where the gorillas are located. We’ll leave the lodge early to reach the park’s Registration Center, where the trek will start after introductions and a briefing from the guide on what to expect and how to act in the presence of the gorillas. Viewing the gorillas is a profound experience, but because the trek may be too difficult for some participants, we are leaving it as an optional activity, not included in the tour price. For those who opt not to take the trek, there will be a birding excursion into the adjacent forest with a picnic lunch. Later in the day we’ll return to Gorilla Forest Camp for some optional leisurely birding. Night near Buhoma.

Day 15: We’ll start the uphill drive to Ruhija. Although it is not a long way, we’ll spend the entire day on this route to take advantage of the superb birding. In scrubby areas beyond Buhoma, we’ll search for Ross’s Turaco; Red-throated Wryneck; Brown-backed Scrub-Robin, as well as Bronze, Copper and Variable Sunbirds, Black-necked and Holub’s Golden Weavers; Yellow Bishop and Black-throated Seed-eater. Further along the road, we’ll pass through Kitahurira, or “The Neck,” another well-known birding site. Here we’ll search for the likes of Western Bronze-naped Pigeon, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Willcox’s Honeyguide, Petit’s Cuckoo-shrike, Chapin’s Flycatcher, Mountain Wagtail, Pink-footed Puffback, and the rare Tiny Sunbird. Even further up the road, cultivated areas provide feeding opportunities for many seedeaters, which will hopefully include Dusky Twinspot and Yellow-bellied and Black-crowned Waxbills. African Stonechat, Thick-billed Seedeater and Yellow-crowned Canary may also be found. We’ll also seek out the noisy Chubb’s Cisticola providing cheerful song from deep within the bracken, the stunning Doherty’s Bushshrike appearing from the dense vegetation, and Mackinnon’s Shrike surveying the road from high, exposed perches. Night in Ruhija.

Day 16: We’ll undertake a full day of walking along the road at Ruhija. At this altitude the vegetation is quite different from what we experienced in Buhoma and will now include giant heather, giant lobelia, and extensive bracken. Bird species that we’ll hope to see here include Black-billed Turaco, Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo, Western Green Tinkerbird, Olive Woodpecker, Dwarf Honeyguide, Eastern Mountain and the wing-waving Yellow-streaked Greenbuls, Archer’s Robin-Chat, Stripe-breasted Tit, Mountain Illadopsis and the beautifully voiced Grey-chested Illadopsis—now renamed Grey-chested Kakamega, as it is not an Illadopsis after all. In addition, we’ll hope to spot African Hill Babbler (the local form often treated as a full species, Rwenzori Hill Babbler), Mountain Masked, Rwenzori, and Chestnut-throated Apalises, all noisy and active, Red-faced Woodland-Warbler, Yellow-eyed Black-Flycatcher, Rwenzori Batis, Mountain Sooty Boubou, the rare Lagden’s Bushshrike, Strange Weaver and Oriole Finch. Flowering symphonia trees attract the glorious Purple-breasted Sunbird, as well as Blue-headed and Regal Sunbird—all three being breathtakingly gorgeous Albertine Rift endemics. Dusky and Red-faced Crimsonwings—amongst the most striking and sought-after of African seedeaters—will also be possible. At night we’ll set out to search for Rwenzori Nightjar and African Wood-Owl. Night in Ruhija.

Day 17: We’ll set off for the steep descent to Mubwindi Swamp and the seemingly steeper ascent back the same way! This will be our only chance to encounter the exceedingly rare and amazingly cryptic African Green Broadbill, which lives near the bottom of the trail close to the swamp. Because of the steep trail, walking sticks are recommended.  The option of borrowing walking sticks and of hiring porters to carry everything other than binoculars and cameras will be available. This will be another all-day excursion, and it will hopefully give us an opportunity to observe another Albertine Rift endemic, the Grauer’s Rush Warbler that inhabits the swamp vegetation here. Night in Ruhija.

Day 18: Our destination is Lake Mburo. On our way out of the forest, we’ll of course be on the lookout for any missed species, as we pass through the bamboo zone. These may include Handsome Francolin, Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler, Mountain Yellow Warbler, and possibly the highland Kandt’s Waxbill. As we head eastward, the birds en route will now be familiar, but it won’t stop us from looking in any interesting habitat. In the afternoon we’ll arrive at Lake Mburo National Park where the birding will be in open savanna and scrubby forest. Night in Lake Mburo.

Day 19: Lake Mburo National Park is a superb wetland and Acacia savanna sanctuary that hosts many sought-after species. Raptor watching will be a major feature of our day. Potential sightings include African Marsh-Harrier, enormous Lappet-faced and White-headed Vultures, and the trio of Brown, Banded, and Beaudouin’s Snake-eagles. Lake Mburo’s woodlands are the northernmost example of the southern savanna system and are home to several species at the edge of their range. The most sought-after of these is the elusive Red-faced Barbet, known only in remote northeastern Rwanda and here. We’ll also search for Coqui Francolin, Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove which in Uganda is restricted to this region, Levaillant’s, Klaas’s and Dideric Cuckoos, Lilac-breasted Roller, Green Woodhoopoe, Common Scimitar-bill, Nubian and Bearded Woodpeckers, several swallows, including Lesser Striped, Rufous-chested, Mosque and White-headed Saw-wing, White-browed Scrub-Robin, Trilling and Tabora Cisticolas, Yellow-billed Oxpecker, African Penduline-Tit, the noisy Arrow-marked Babbler, Wattled and Greater Blue-eared Starlings, and Red-headed Weaver. On our afternoon boat excursion on the lake, we’ll have a good chance to see the much-desired African Finfoot and possibly the White-backed Night-Heron. Mammals that we’ll hope to encounter are foraging groups of banded and dwarf mongooses, common zebra, impala, eland, bushbuck, oribi, hippopotamus, and common warthog, In the evening we’ll look for nightjars, with the options being the bizarre Pennant-winged, or the more standard Black-shouldered, Square-tailed, Swamp and Freckled. Night in Lake Mburo.

Day 20: We’ll depart for a final chance to enjoy Lake Mburo before settling in for the drive back to the city of Entebbe. Hopefully we’ll spot a few more species that we may not yet have encountered. In the afternoon we’ll arrive in Entebbe where we’ll have day rooms for repacking and showering then an evening meal before we catch our flights home. The tour concludes this evening in Entebbe.

2025 Narrative

IN BRIEF:Whilst the winter months in Uganda are extremely pleasant and generally comfortably warm without reaching any high temperatures or uncomfortable humidity, this tour will be partly remembered for the unusually cool climate in Buhoma. But another factor was on the entire trip we never encountered a Tsetse Fly, which made the savannas very pleasant, but likewise the environment seemed mosquito-free. All this contrasts with having a tour in the warm months when temperatures climb, humidity rises, and biting insects eagerly await the visitor. Being an equatorial nation, the variances in these differences might come as a surprise. We only encountered rain on one day for about twenty minutes but unfortunately we were in an open boat at the time.

Uganda showed itself to be fully recovered from the past scourge of Covid, and throughout the region we travelled, tourism was looking healthy once again and lodges were doing a good business and the National Parks and Reserves were hosting healthy numbers. All accommodations visited on the 2025 tour were in a superb state and still improving their products to a high standard, and equally throughout we were well cared for and comfortable in all of our lodgings, and serviced by very professional and caring staff.

Whilst much of the country has not changed much, some places have degraded with so much of Lake Mburu National Park being annexed and handed over to individuals for livestock and crop farming. This revealed a major incursion into the area and sadly the constant vigil of Park’s staff having to keep trespassing livestock out of the vastly depleted wilderness park area, and the sad sight of the Busingiro section of Budongo National Forest being irreversibly destroyed by ambitious road “improvements.” Whilst throughout the region we visited, any forest not part of the National Park, National Forests protection, or conservation areas administered by local councils/private groups, has either gone or has little chance of surviving. The National Parks at least have demonstrated their dedication to protecting the environment. It is so encouraging that in every corner we visited, there are guides eager to share their vast knowledge of the regional avifauna, and it is thanks to these people that they are able to provide the visitor with sightings of species that the visitor would not be able to obtain without their assistance. Those that have since retired have passed their knowledge on to the next generation of conservationists.

The 2025 group arrived to experience the environment and unique wildlife of Uganda, and the four American and two Canadian residents opted to visit Uganda for a bird and mammal tour of just under three weeks in the coolest months of June and July. Experiencing the superb birding and wildlife viewing it has to offer, whilst appreciating the outgoing hospitality and professionalism of the people. 

IN DETAIL: All participants planned to arrive one day earlier than the official start of the tour, and with the availability of all three leaders on the rest day; it enabled an additional early morning stroll in the Entebbe Botanical Gardens. As casual as this extra day was, it still netted species not recorded on the main tour with Bat Hawk, African Wood-Owl (at the hotel) and both Orange and Golden-backed Weavers. With over 81 species “under our belt,” we were all refreshed to start the official tour the following day. 

The first programmed venture on 16th was to Mbamba Wetlands to the west of the Entebbe Peninsula. As we set off we were soon seeing new birds with Long-crested Eagles, Striped and Grey-headed Kingfishers, Madagascar and White-throated Bee-eaters. On arrival at Mbamba, we were met with the resident guides with their boats, and were soon off to search for the desired bird for this morning, the incomparable Shoebill. Setting off down the papyrus channels we were soon on the main swamp and finding many new trip birds which included the only Little Grebe we would see on the entire tour, and likewise African Marsh Harrier and Purple Swamphen, but soon we were admiring our days target species with close views of the unique and remarkable Shoebill.

With this high priority species well studied we set off in the direction of Kampala, the National Capital. With a few brief stops admiring roadside birds including Wahlberg’s Eagle and Black-winged Kite. We stopped for a satisfying lunch in Kampala, and were soon on our way to Masindi. A stop to look for the scarce Hartlaub’s Marsh Widowbird was successful, the area also rewarding us with both Woolly-necked and Saddle-billed Storks, Brown Snake-Eagle and Grey-backed Fiscal. Before arriving at our destination of the Masindi Hotel, we stopped briefly at small roadside swamp areas, where we found the trio of Red-billed, Cardinal and Red-headed Queleas and closer to town our first of very many Piapiacs. Soon we arrived the Masindi Hotel, the oldest hotel in the country. After a good meal we retired for a comfortable night to the metallic “tinks” of Epauletted Fruit-Bats.

We were early for breakfast next morning (17th), and soon departing in the direction of Murchison Falls National Park. Alongside the road were many grass crops growing on the cultivated land, and we were frequently stopping for numerous birds attracted to this habitat and interwoven patches of woodland. There was so much to see with our first African Goshawk, Vinaceous and Black-billed Wood-Doves regional specialities, as were White-crested Turaco, White-thighed Hornbill, and Whistling Cisticola, whilst other species were attracted to flowering plants and seeds, such as Collared, Western Violet-backed and Copper Sunbirds, Yellow White-eye, Red-collared (the all-blackish race concolor of Red-collared Widowbird which has no trace of red whatsoever), Yellow-shouldered and Yellow-mantled Widowbirds, and Northern Red, Black and Black-winged Bishops.

After checking in at the Murchison Falls (Kabalega) National Park we proceed slowly along the road to Kaniyo Pabidi for a stop for the so very local Puvel’s Illadopsis which never showed itself although distantly responded twice, when in the past it used to climb openly into leafless scrub for a better view of the visitor! As every birder visiting Uganda searches for the same individuals, it’s not surprising that the birds treat people with indifference! Our walk in the forest was fairly quiet although we did see African Emerald Cuckoo, Blue-throated Rollers, Brown-eared Woodpecker, Grey and Spotted Greenbuls, Western Nicator, Fire-crested Alethe, Forest Robin, Rufous Flycatcher-Thrush, Green Hylia, Yellow Longbill, Green Crombec, Western Black-headed Oriole and Blue-throated Brown Sunbird. There were numerous other forest birds that whilst heard, remained just the voices.

We returned to the Main Centre where we consumed our picnic lunch whilst watching hundreds of butterflies come to the ground to suck up some moisture.

After lunch we continued along the road to the rampant Murchison (Kabalega) falls, where the entire River Nile squeezes through a gap of barely six metres and is an unforgettable sight to behold. Still finding new species for the tour, in this area we were to find:

Heuglin’s Francolin, Harlequin Quail, a roosting Greyish Eagle-Owl, White-collared Pratincole, Red-throated Bee-eaters, Brown Babbler, Sooty Chat, Pale Flycatcher, Green-backed Eremomela, Pale-eyed Black Tit, Fork-tailed Drongo, Violet-backed Starling, Yellow-billed Oxpecker, Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver, Black-rumped and Crimson-rumped Waxbills, Red-winged Pytilia and Yellow-fronted Canary.

We checked into Sambiya River Lodge, our base for two nights.

After an early breakfast we departed on the 18th, with picnic lunches for a very full day in the Murchison National Park. Firstly we drove to the bridge over the Victoria Nile, and spent the morning on the North side towards the Albert Nile, up in the borassus palms, then headed north, then south towards the picnic area on the Victoria Nile where we stopped to eat our packed lunches.

All this took the entire morning, and after our picnic we left for our private boat charter to the foot of Murchison Falls. It was here that the clouds rolled in, and a strong wind came up, and then came the torrential rain. The water became very choppy and we sought a calm area on the North bank and sat out the downpour. When it eased we retraced our path back towards the bridge. Nevertheless we had an extremely good trip on the river before the skies opened, with today’s novelties including:

Goliath Heron, Lappet-faced Vulture, Tawny Eagle, Martial Eagle, Red-necked Falcon, Black-bellied Bustard, Kittlitz’s Plover, Black-headed Lapwing, Senegal Thick-knee, African Skimmer, Klaa’s, Levaillant’s and Jacobin Cuckoos, Senegal Coucal, Giant Kingfisher, Swallow-tailed and Northern Carmine Bee-eaters, Abyssinian Ground-Hornbill, Black-billed and Spot-flanked Barbets, Flappet Lark, Spotted Morning-Thrush, Silverbird, Swamp Flycatcher, Siffling, Croaking, Rattling, Zitting, Wing-snapping and Black-backed Cisticolas, Buff-bellied Warbler, African Moustached Warbler, Northern Crombec, Western Black-headed Batis, Grassland Pipit, Black-crowned Tchagra, Beautiful Sunbird, Speckle-fronted Weaver, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver and Shelley’s Sparrow.

On the 19th, we set off for Masindi via the Butiaba Escarpment. We stopped at many sites as we drove south down the Albertine Rift Valley, though many sites were randomly selected our brief stop at the Busingiro section of Budongo Forest rewarded us, and we added more new birds to our fast expanding list and on his stretch it included:

Dark Chanting-Goshawk, Black-winged Stilt, Blue Yellowbill, Blue-headed Coucal, Yellow-crested Woodpecker, Cliff Chat, Foxy Cisticola, Red-winged Grey Warbler, Brown-crowned Eremomela, Red-winged Warbler, Red-faced Crombec, Chestnut and Brown-throated Wattle-eyes, Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike, Lesser Blue-eared Starling, Chestnut and Black-necked Weavers, Black-rumped and Black-faced Waxbills, Green-winged Pytilia, Cabanis’ Bunting and White-rumped Seedeater.

Back at Masindi Hotel again and after a good sleep we were up early for breakfast and a full days birding in Budongo Forest after first visiting local gardens. We were having two full days (20th & 21st) in this area, it is a rich area but a little frustrating along the Royal Mile where the canopy is extremely high and if overcast, dark and distant, and the lower levels densely vegetated and gloomy. But with patience the birds will reveal themselves. We picked up a lot, but some species stayed as unseen voices. But the new species we saw included: 

Nahan’s Partridge, Red-headed Lovebird, Narina’s Trogon, African Dwarf Kingfisher, Brown-chested Alethe, Red-tailed Ant-thrush, Forest Flycatcher, Grey-throated Flycatcher, Chestnut-capped Flycatcher, Olive-green and Yellow-browed Camaropteras, Grey Longbill, Uganda Woodland Warbler, Dark-capped Yellow Warbler, White-chinned Prinia, Lemon-bellied Crombec, Jameson’s Wattle-eye, Purple-headed Starling, Grey-chinned and Little Green Sunbirds, Brown Twinspot, Fawn-breasted Waxbill, White-breasted Nigrita and Grey-headed Oliveback.

On the 22nd, we had an early breakfast and farewelled Masindi for the first stage of our return southwards. En route to Hoima we had a short walk at one spot, and more frustration with Papyrus endemics at two sites before having our lunch stop. In the afternoon we had a roadside stop shortly before Fort Portal, which is higher than the remainder of Kibale Forest and is home to several species not found in the lower parts. In the late afternoon we arrived at Guereza Canopy Lodge in Kibale Forest National Park. New species we recorded today were:

Banded Snake-Eagle, Alpine Swift, Masked Apalis, Tiny and Bronze Sunbird and Black-crowned Waxbill.

Well before dawn on 23rd, after early breakfast, we met up at the Park’s HQ and joined our guide and armed guards for the search for the beautiful Green-breasted Pitta who also is an early bird displaying well before dawn. We were treated to a stunning display, not from a perch up in a tree, but from a stick only a foot from the ground. It was quite mesmerising and enabled staggering views. In the afternoon the group hiked for a Chimpanzee experience with the evening being birding from the main road. New birds seen today were:

Afep Pigeon, Red-chested Owlet, Mottled and Sabine’s Spinetails, Hairy-breasted Barbet, Green-breasted Pitta, Sand Martin, White-throated Greenbul, Scaly-breasted Illadopsis, Cassin’s Grey and Dusky-blue Flycatcher, Dusky Tit and Chestnut-winged Starling.

On 24th we spent the early morning on the Bigodi Swamp, a village-run conservation project to protect both the primates and birds found on their land. After furnishing us with the correct sized wellington boots, we set off around the swamp which involved using the local raised footpaths that crossed the water but in view of recent weather were now underwater (hence the insistence that we accept their offer of wellington boots!).

After lunch we departed for Queen Elizabeth National Park, arriving late afternoon at the superb Mwea Lodge. Our new birds seen today included:

Lesser Flamingo, White-spotted Flufftail, Senegal Lapwing, Jacobin Cuckoo, Black Coucal, Shining-blue Kingfisher, Bocage’s Bush-shrike, Lesser Masked Weaver and Magpie Mannikin. 

We had an early breakfast at Mwea Lodge on 25th, and headed out along the causeway to the Kasese Road, crossing to the eastern side of the National Park to the Kob Mating Ground. We birded in these grasslands for most of the morning, returning to Mwea Lodge for lunch. In the afternoon we had a boat trip downriver to some open bays, and then turned westwards to the entry for Lake Edward at the fishing camp. Later returning to Mwea Lodge and seeing the Swamp Flycatchers sitting on the backs and arms of the sofas once it was dark, a unique habit for the species actively chasing flying insects all night, every night in the reception area for at least the past twenty years! New trip birds seen today:

Common Buttonquail, African Crake, Water Thick-knee, White-winged and Gull-billed Terns, Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, Rufous-naped and White-tailed Larks, Banded Martin, Lesser Swamp Warbler, Plain-backed Pipit, Purple-banded Sunbird and Southern Red Bishop.

On the 26th, after breakfast we departed Mwea and started our journey southwards, starting with frustration at a stop on the other side of the bridge crossing the Kazinga Channel, as the Papyrus specialities gave us the usual run-around, although we did succeed in having good views of Carruther’s Cisticolas. We had many stops on our long drive to Ishasha at the southern end of Queen Elizabeth National Park. Many such stops were productive including the famous Tree Climbing Lions of Ishasha, which were waiting for us. On exiting the Park we faced the rough dirt road to Buhoma in the Bwindi-Impenetrable National Forest, arriving at the Ride for a Woman Lodge at Ruhija, in the early evening. New species seen today were:

Black-chested Snake-Eagle, Common Scimitarbill, Crested Barbet, Lesser Honeyguide, Greater Honeyguide, Speckle-breasted Woodpecker, Mosque Swallow, Trilling Cisticola and Mackinnon’s Fiscal. 

Today the 27th was going to be the long-anticipated Gorilla hike. Before checking in we had located a large mixed flock, which came low and resulted in excellent views. All the team were doing the trek apart from one, and after seeing the rest of the group on their way he had a guided walk in the self-guided circuit near the village. The main party had returned from their successful trek and all were able to do the local walk in the afternoon. New trip birds seen today were:

Augur Buzzard, Crested Guineafowl, Cassin’s Honeybird, Elliot’s Woodpecker, Ansorge’s Greenbul, Red-tailed Bristlebill, Red-tailed Greenbul, Toro Olive Greenbul, Cabanis’s Greenbul, Snowy-headed, Blue-shouldered and Grey-winged Robin-Chats, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, African Dusky Flycatcher, Grey and Black-throated Apalis, Black-faced Rufous Warbler, Chubb’s Cisticola, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, Cape Wagtail, Mountain Wagtail, Pink-footed Puffback, Luhder’s Bush-shrike, Petit’s Cuckooshrike, Montane Oriole, Stuhlmann’s White-eye, Brown-capped and Black-billed Weaver.

On the 28th, we spent the entire day on the track to the Democratic Republic of the Congo, but we did not walk that far! Our lunches were delivered to us and we ended the day in a heavy shower, some of which we sat out in a rest stop for such events. When the rain subsided the birding became very rewarding. It remained dry for our walk back to the main gate where the cars were parked. Perhaps the greatest surprise was standing on the track when a group of Gorillas appeared in front of us and walked past us without showing any interest, passing within two feet of the group as if we weren’t there! Birds seen for the first time on this tour were: 

Western Bronze-naped Pigeon, Black-billed Turaco, Western Bar-tailed Trogon, Black Bee-eater, African Broadbill, Rock Martin, Black Saw-wing, White-bellied Robin-Chat, Chapin’s Flycatcher, Red-faced Woodland Warbler, Neumann’s Short-tailed Warbler, Willard’s Sooty Boubou, Waller’s Starling, Stuhlmann’s Starling, Red-headed Malimbe and Streaky Seedeater.

The 29th was the time to leave the incredible adventures of Ruhija birding, and of course the Gorillas, and continue the climb to Buhoma. We stopped a few times in the lower garden areas and then had a lunch break at “The Neck” where the forest becomes very constricted. Still climbing, we arrived at Bakiga Lodge in Buhoma in the late afternoon and had a local walk near the lodge. New birds seen today were:

Olive Pigeon, Red-throated Wryneck, Black Saw-wing, Highland Rush Warbler, Cinnamon Bracken Warbler, Banded Prinia, Many-coloured Bush-Shrike, Slender-billed Starling, Grey-headed Sunbird, Yellow Bishop, Black-throated Seedeater and Yellow-crowned Canary.

On the 30th, after an early breakfast the group broke into two halves, one group left with Sam to hike down to the African Green Broadbill and Grauer’s Rush Warbler, whilst the other birded with Paul and Brian on the ridge. The new birds seen today were:

Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk, Cassin’s Hawk-Eagle, White-headed Wood-hoopoe, Western Green Tinkerbird, Dwarf Honeyguide, Fine-banded Woodpecker, African Green Broadbill, Eastern Mountain Greenbul, Yellow-streaked Greenbul, African (Rwenzori) Hill Babbler, Mountain Illadopsis, Archer’s Robin-Chat, Equatorial Akalat, Northern Olive Thrush, Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher, Mountain Masked Apalis, Chestnut-throated Apalis, Rwenzori Apalis, Grauer’s Rush Warbler, Grauer’s Warbler, Mountain Yellow Warbler, White-browed Crombec, Doherty’s Bush Shrike, Grey Cuckoo-shrike, White-necked Raven, Sharpe’s Starling, Blue-headed, Regal and Purple-breasted Sunbirds, Strange Weaver, Kandt’s Waxbill, Dusky Crimsonwing, and Thick-billed Seedeater.

On the 1st July, efforts were made to find all species along the main road that ensured that both of our groups from yesterday caught up with, as collectively the previous day had been a great success, and again today went very and methodically the single group sightings fell one by one. We also had a walk in a rich local garden area, also seeing several Rwenzori three-horned Chameleons. In the evening we looked for Albertine Nightjar, but whilst we could hear them not so far away, they would not respond to playback and we did not get a glimpse of them. Additional new species seen today were:

Stripe-breasted Tit, Ruwenzori Batis, Dusky Twinspot, Yellow-bellied Waxbill, Western Citril and Oriole Finch.

The 2nd of July marked the day we had to leave the area and start our journey westwards. Nevertheless we departed slowly along the road with a few stops, with a few catch-ups amongst the group. On leaving the forest we continued to Lake Mburo stopping to check out a Papyrus bed and a look at a freshwater dam, arriving at Lake Mburo National Park in the late afternoon. New birds seen today were:

White-backed Duck, Handsome Francolin, Crowned Lapwing, Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, Bare-faced Go-Away-Bird, Red-throated Alethe, White-starred Robin, African Stonechat, White-winged Warbler and Papyrus Gonolek.

Now 3rd July, in Lake Mburu National Park, we were soon finding birds in this largely wooded savanna habitat. After lunch we departed for a boat trip on Lake Mburu which was very successful, and stopped for emerging Nightjars as the day drew to a close. Additions to our bird list seen today were:

White-backed Night-Heron, Little Bittern, White-headed Vulture, Lesser Spotted Eagle, African Finfoot, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Black-shouldered Nightjar, Lilac-breasted Roller, Bearded Woodpecker, Long-tailed (Tabora) Cisticola, Brubru, Pale-eyed Black Tit and Red-headed Weaver. 

The last full day on 4th July, was the long drive back to Entebbe allowing for little birding, although we did have a number of stops along the road before connecting with the main highway. We also had a stop at an expanse of open swampy marsh with a Shoebill, before heading back with no more stops apart from a lunch break near the Equator. We had our farewell meal together at Jet Villas, in Entebbe, some people leaving that evening and most others the following day. The final new birds seen on our long journey were:

Rufous-bellied Heron, Spur-winged Goose, Knob-billed Duck and a Eurasian Hoopoe.

It was a very successful tour, well planned and events went smoothly throughout. Naturally there were species that did not show up as hoped for as many of the targets only offered the one opportunity to see them coupled with severe habitat degradation in many areas, where over the years entire forests and previously extensive natural woodland areas have disappeared. There were great group dynamics throughout the tour, planned events happened seamlessly and the expertise shown by the local guides was of very high standards in every single location visited. 

                                                                                                                                                                                        -          Brian Finch

Back to Narratives