Thailand: The Northwest

Day 1: The trip begins at 6:00 p.m. with a meeting in the lobby of our Bangkok hotel, followed by dinner. Night at the Novotel near Bangkok’s international airport.

Day 2: We’ll fly this morning to Chiang Mai and on arrival drive south to Mae Ping National Park, one of the best-preserved deciduous forests in Thailand which we’ll explore this afternoon and tomorrow morning. Woodpeckers will be one of our objectives and we have a good chance of finding the stunning Black-headed. Two other specialties, the Collared Falconet and the scarce Indochinese endemic White-rumped Pygmy-falcon, occur here and we’ll hope to see them. Other species might include Crested Serpent-Eagle, Shikra, Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Grey-capped and maybe White-bellied Woodpeckers, Grey-headed Parakeet, Common, and Large Woodshrikes, Burmese and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, White-crested Laughingthrush, and Black-hooded Oriole. Night at Villa Sangdao, Lamphun.

Day 3: We’ll spend the morning birding Mae Ping National Park. After lunch, we’ll travel to Doi Inthanon, stopping along the way to look for the spectacular Green Peafowl near Bang Hong before arriving at our resort hotel at the foot of the mountain. If time allows we’ll search for Blossom-headed Parakeet and Rufous Treepie, which are often present nearby. Night at Doi Inthanon Highland Resort.

Day 4: We'll bird this morning around Doi Inthanon's summit amidst gorgeous flowering rhododendrons and orchids. We’ll stop first just below the summit, where at first light we may find wintering Speckled and sometimes Ashy Woodpigeons sunning themselves. We’ll encounter many other species, including Striated Bulbul and perhaps a rare wintering Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker. At the summit, we’ll walk on a sphagnum moss boardwalk surrounded by marvelous red-flowering rhododendrons and almost certainly a multitude of small brightly colored birds, including Bar-throated Minla, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Yellow-bellied Fairy-fantail, and the stunning Mrs. Gould’s and Green-tailed Sunbirds (an endemic subspecies, angkanensis, perhaps a separate species). We’ll look too for ground skulkers such as Rufous-throated Partridge, Himalayan Shortwing, Dark-sided, and Gray-sided Thrushes, Himalayan Bluetail, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, Pygmy Cupwing, and Silver-eared Laughingthrush. After a picnic lunch, we’ll begin our descent, searching for additional birds as we go, notably at the military checkpoint and at the park headquarters where we hope to see Yunnan Fulvetta, Short-billed Minivet, and Spectacled Barwing. Night at Doi Inthanon Highland Resort.

Day 5: We’ll explore the loftiest and most species-rich forest at elevations between 5000 and 6000 feet. Among the many birds, we’ll look especially for Maroon Oriole, Short-billed Minivet, Brown-throated Treecreeper, the secretive White-necked Laughingthrush, Silver-eared Mesia, Spectacled Barwing, Rufous-backed Sibia, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Slaty-bellied Tesia, and Large Niltava. We have as well a slim chance of finding Green Cochoa. Heading back down the mountain, we’ll check along the cascading streams for White-capped and Plumbeous Water Redstarts and the striking Slaty-backed and Black-backed Forktails. Among the red-flowering trees, we’ll search for White-headed Bulbul, an endemic to this part of Thailand and adjacent Myanmar, and a species we've missed in recent years. Black Bulbuls are also found here, but normally at a slightly higher elevation. In the more open areas we’ll look for Hoopoe and Slender-billed Oriole along with a variety of other species. Night at the Doi Inthanon Highland Resort.

Day 6: Our final morning on Doi Inthanon will be flexible as we focus on species missed on the lower and mid-elevation slopes. After lunch, we’ll check a raptor site noted for concentrations of Black Kites and perhaps other species, and then head back to Chiang Mai. Night at the Dusit Princess Hotel, Chiang Mai.

Day 7: This morning is flexible. We’ll likely bird Mae Tang, an area with numerous ponds and canals. We’ll stop along the way and see if we can spot Crested Treeswift on powerlines north of Chiang Mai. At Mae Taeng we have an excellent chance of seeing Green Sandpiper and perhaps Rufous-winged Buzzard and Citrine Wagtail. In 2024, two Long-billed Plovers wintered here. Various land birds will be present, and we have a reasonable chance of seeing Wryneck, Wire-tailed Swallow, and Red Avadavat. After lunch, we’ll drive north to Fang. where we’ll spend the next four nights. Night at the Sleeping Tree Motel in Fang.

Day 8: We’ll explore Doi Ang Khang, a rugged and scenic mountain perched on the Thai-Burmese border. It’s home to people of Chinese descent who trace their lineage back to Chiang Kai-shek’s army who settled here after the Chinese Revolution, as well as Shan, Lahu, and Palong tribespeople. The Thai government has established watershed protection and upland agriculture projects to help conserve the region’s environment and, although the forest cover is much reduced, a great diversity of forest birds persists in the open oak-pine woodlands. Among the specialties are Brown-breasted Bulbul, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler, White-browed Laughingthrush, Scarlet-faced Liocichla, Chestnut Bunting, Common Rosefinch, and with good luck Spot-breasted Parrotbill and Buff-throated and Chinese Leaf Warblers. We’ll also look for hard-to-find species such as Mountain Bamboo-Partridge, Long-tailed Minivet, Black-breasted and Scaly Thrushes, Gray-winged Blackbird, and Crested Finchbill. At times the airspace above teems with Cook’s Swift, recently split from Pacific Swift, that nest and roost in caves on the mountain, and there is always the possibility of seeing something unexpected, perhaps a rare thrush, bunting, or finch. Night at the Sleeping Tree Motel in Fang. 

Day 9: We’ll leave very early start for Doi Lang, where a steep blacktop road runs above 6500 feet  along the south ridge of Doi Lang. Along the road, there is a distinct possibility of encountering Mrs. Hume’s Pheasant and Mountain Bamboo-Partridge. We’ll be birding mostly along roadside forest edge with spectacular views over the steep escarpment that slopes away across the border into the Burmese hills. Crested Finchbills, scarce on Doi Ang Khang, can usually be found here. We have a good chance as well for Giant Nuthatch, Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush, and Slender-billed Oriole. We’ll spend the entire morning on the mountain and, after lunch, bird our way back down. A series of blinds have been constructed by bird photographers where secretive forest species come into feed. Every visit is different but we might see White-gorgeted, Rufous-gorgeted and Slaty-blue Flycatchers, Rufous-bellied Niltava, and White-bellied Redstart, among others. Rarer species we've encountered previously include Spot-breasted Laughingthrush, Rusty-naped Pitta and Ultramarine, Slaty-blue, and Sapphire Flycatchers. During the day we’ll cross paths with feeding flocks and we’ll be on high alert for the spectacular Himalayan Cutia. We had fine studies of three in 2023 and two again in 2024 as they foraged along the horizontal trunks. In 2023 and returning in 2024, a wintering White-spectacled Warbler was present, a first for Thailand. We’ll hope for similar good fortune this year. Night at the Sleeping Tree Motel in Fang.

Day 10: We’ll return to the southwest side of Doi Lang searching carefully for any species we may have missed. Doi Lang is one of the best birding locations in northern Thailand and spending another day here should not feel overly duplicative as the list of possible species is long and exciting. Night at the Sleeping Tree Motel in Fang.

Day 11: We’ll check Fang Hot Stream in Doi Pha Hom Pok National Park, or paddies near Mae Ai, or Tha Ton. Small numbers of the endangered Yellow-breasted Bunting sometimes winter, and if present, we’ll search for them. Later we’ll drive east towards the Mekong River and our lunch stop, with a chance for Small Pratincole along the river flats. After checking into our resort on the Mekong River, we'll head to the Golden Triangle where, from the deck, we can look at Laos across the Mekong, and Myanmar (Burma) across an adjacent and even closer stream. If there’s time we might head to Chiang Saen Lake where harriers roost; in some winters dozens come in at dusk to the marsh at the northwestern corner of the lake. Most will be Pied with some Eastern Marsh, but Hen and Western Marsh have been recorded as well. Night at the Siam Triangle Hotel.

Day 12:  We’ll start by returning to the lake and take a boat trip around the margins, looking for wintering ducks, mostly Ferruginous but Tufted and Common Pochard are also possible along with Ruddy Shelduck. Indian Spot-billed Duck should be present in good numbers, and Baikal Teal has been found. The “endangered” Baer’s Pochard has been recorded here and on a few other lakes. If we hear of one, we’ll look for it. Great Cormorant (subspecies sinensis) are present along with a few Little Cormorants. In addition to lake birds, Nam Kham Nature Reserve has several species of interest, particularly if the photographic hides are open. Freckle-breasted and Laced Woodpeckers are possible along with Jerdon’s Bushchat, Siberian Rubythroat and Baikal Grasshopper-warbler. Night at the Siam Triangle Hotel.

Day 13: We’ll visit Nong Mae Lua, another lake about 20 km south of Chiang Saen. It’s excellent for waterfowl and shorebirds, notably various plovers, stints, Wood Sandpiper, and Spotted Redshank, and Chestnut-capped Babbler and Greater Spotted Eagle are possible. Later in the morning, we’ll travel south towards Chiang Rai ascending Doi Thung for lunch followed by a visit to Mae Fah Wong Arboretum where there are bird feeders. Rarities like Naumann’s, Dusky, and Chestnut Thrushes, and Blue-fronted Redstart are occasionally present. Other higher elevation species are possible as well. Later we’ll head to Chiang Rai. Night in Chiang Rai.

Day 14: We’ll visit Nong Laung Lake south of Chiang Rai where there is excellent birding, particularly for waterfowl. A thousand or more Lesser Whistling-ducks are typically present and in the last two trips we’ve found some two dozen Cotton Pygmy-geese. Garganey also winters here and rarer ducks have included Red-crested and Common Pochards and Tufted Duck. On the last three trips we’ve found from one to several Baer’s Pochard with a small flock of Ferruginous Duck.  Falcated Duck has also been recorded, and Oriental Darter and Long-tailed Jacana are possible. After lunch in Chiang Rai, we’ll drive to the airport for a late afternoon flight back to Bangkok and a final group dinner at the Novotel near the airport. Night in Bangkok. 

Day 15: The tour concludes this morning in Bangkok.  

2024 Narrative

In Brief: Our 2024 Northwest Thailand tour recorded 286 species of which six were just heard. Highlights included Rufous-throated Partridges, Mrs. Hume’s Pheasant (3), Pin-tailed Green-pigeon (pair), one roosting and one nesting Hodgson’s Frogmouth, Crested Treeswifts, Eastern Water Rail (3), Long-billed Plover (2), Jerdon’s Baza, Black-headed, Necklaced, and Necklaced (formerly known as Crimson-breasted) woodpeckers, White-rumped Pygmy-falcon and Collared Falconet (4), Indochinese Cuckooshrike, Giant and Burmese nuthatches, Spot-breasted Parrotbill, Black-backed and Slaty-backed forktails, Grey-sided and Black-breasted thrushes, Spot-winged Grosbeak (20), White-spectacled Warbler (back for its third winter, a first for Thailand), Slaty-blue, Ultramarine and Sapphire flycatchers, Scarlet-faced Liocichla, Himalayan Cutia (two) and eighty Yellow-breasted Buntings. On our final morning of birding on a lake near Chiang Rai we located a single male Baer’s Pochard with a flock of Ferruginous Ducks.

In Detail: Our trip began with a meeting in the lobby of the Novotel Hotel adjacent to the Suvarnabhumi airport. We adjourned to the dining room for a delicious buffet dinner and discussed the tour ahead. The next morning we departed early and took a morning flight to Chiang Mai, the second-largest city in Thailand. After meeting our team (led by Pasith with Manoon and Pradit as drivers, Mr. C as cook, and his assistant Muang, we headed south stopping here and there, notably for Black Kites and Ashy Woodswallows. We took lunch at Villa Sangdao where we noted a Black-winged Kite, a Long-tailed Shrike, an Asian Brown Flycatcher, and a Pied Bushchat. After lunch, we headed to Mae Ping National Park where we birded until dusk. We saw a scattering of species and these included Red-wattled Lapwin, Gey-capped Woodpecker, Gray-headed Parakeet, Large Woodshrike, Black-hooded Oriole, Blue-winged Leafbird, White-rumped Shama and Yellow-browed Warbler. Brian spotted a Crested Treeswift flying overhead. A calling Banded Bay Cuckoo was seen briefly. Near dusk, a Southern Boobok started calling and came in for good viewing.

After a predawn breakfast, we departed and arrived shortly afterwards at Mae Ping National Park. While birds were not abundant we had a nice collection of birds, including the striking Black-headed and White-bellied woodpeckers, Grey-headed Parakeet (ten seen), three Indochinese Cuckooshrikes (a scarce Thai species), Black-naped Monarch, Burmese and Velvet-fronted nuthatches,  a party of White-crested Laughinthrushes, Black-hooded Orioles, Golden-fronted and Blue-winged leafbirds, Rufous Treepie, Red-billed Blue Magpie, and Purple Sunbird. The species we most hoped for was a White-rumped Pygmy-Falcon and we were fortunate to get good perched views of a female. After lunch we headed north and stopped at the Bang Hong Green Peafowl preserve where we saw ten birds. Here we saw our only Plain Flowerpeckers of the tour We have previously seen this species at this location. A little father north at the Mae Ping river crossing we noted Little Pratincoles and Little Ringed Plovers (with young, Thai breeding subspecies, jerdoni), a Common Greenshank and a Citrine Wagtail. A Rufous-winged Buzzard was seen during the day and late in the day near our hotel near the entrance to Doi Inthanon National Park, we noted a single Blossom-headed Parakeet at a pre-roost site.

The next morning we were up early for our trip to the summit of Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest peak. We stopped to look for perched Speckled Wood Pigeons at first light, but had no luck.We did entice a singing Large Hawk-cuckoo to fly over. This species is frequently heard but is seldom seen. Several Striated Bulbuls were perched up on snags.We spent the entire morning walking around the bog, much of it on a boardwalk. We found a nice selection of birds, most of which were exceedingly cooperative. These included Yellow-bellied Fairy-fantail, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Silver-eared Laughingthrush, Dark-backed Sibia, Bar-throated Minla, Blue Whistling-thrush (both black-billed caeruleus and yellow-billed temminckii subspecies), a single Grey-sided Thrush, Ashy-throated and Buff-barred warblers, Blyth’s Leaf-warbler, Chestnut-flanked and Swinhoe’s White-eye, Himalayan Shortwing, (two males), a female type Bluetail (presumably Himalayan), Snowy-browed Flycatcher, and multiple Rufous-throated Partridges. Pygmy Cupwing was seen by most of the group. Perhaps most memorable were the many colorful male Mrs. Gould’s and Green-tailed Sunbirds obtaining nectar from the red flowering rhododendrons. After lunch and another walk around the bog we went back down the mountain to the second checkpoint where we added several other species. These included Golden-throated Barbet, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Spectacled Barwing, Yunan Fulvetta, Maroon Oriole (a female), Blyth’s (White-browed) Shrike-babbler, Short-billed Minivet and Mountain Bulbul.

The following morning we birded mid-elevation areas on Doi Inthanon. Some of the habitats were a bit more open and here we noted such species as Blue-throated Barbet, Slender-billed Oriole, Cinereous (Japanese) Tit, Ashy and Black Bulbuls, and Little and Streaked spiderhunters. Overhead were small numbers of Red-rumped Swallows and Asian House-Martins, and a single Mountain Hawk-eagle was also seen. Notable too was a Thick-billed Warbler. Around the streams, we noted a Hill Blue Flycatcher, a female Plumbeous Water-redstart, a striking White-capped Water-redstart, a Slaty-backed Forktail, and a male Fire-breasted Flowerpecker. After lunch, we headed back up near the 2^nd checkpoint where on a dirt track we did some quiet forest birding. Here we saw a Little Pied-flycatcher and eventually after texting back and forth with an expert Thai birder and tour leader, we located the roosting Hodgson’s Frogmouth. This is only the second time we have seen this species in some 40 years of Thailand tours. A couple of other notable sightings during the day included a Lesser Racquet-tailed Drongo, an Indochinese Rat Snake, and a Northern Treeshrew.

On our last morning, we decided to bird the base of Doi Inthanon at km 13 in dry deciduous forest. We were missing Collared Falconet and this was likely our last remaining chance. We started at the river crossing where we finally spotted a Black-backed Forktail. Then we drove up the hill where we didn’t find many birds, but a few notable ones. These included Eurasian (“White-faced”) Jay, Greater Racquet-tailed Drongo, White-bellied Woodpecker, and Rosy and Swinhoe’s minivets. And, we did see Collared Falconet, four of them, a good distant spot initially by Brian. Later we went up the mountain and stopped at the WachiriathanWaterfall where we carefully examined the treetops for White-headed Bulbul, but we were unsuccessful. We did see a Crested Goshawk and a pair of Scarlet Minivets. Before heading to Chiang Mai we did a bit of birding higher up and stopped again to admire the roosting Hodgson’s Frogmouth. From here we headed back to Chiang Mai, stopping for lunch along the way. Later in the day we stopped at Mae Hia Chiang Mai University Agriculture College where we birded in the fields. Himalayan Swiftlets were numerous overhead and we spotted a handful of Striated Swallows. Rufous-winged Buzzard was also seen. We then headed on to our hotel in Chiang Mai.

The next morning we headed northwest towards Mae Tang, stopping along the highway to admire several perched Crested Treeswifts. For some reason this rather scarce species has been predictable at this somewhat urban location, at least over the last five or so years. Across the way was a small wetland with several thousand Lesser Whistling-ducks along with a juvenile Black-crowned Night Heron. At the Mae Tang Irrigation District we noted a small election of shorebirds including Common Snipe, Green Sandpiper and a Temminick’s Stint. A jerdoni Little Ringed Plover was present, but more important two other plovers were present too. These were Long-billed Plovers, a rare winter visitor to Thailand and a species we had seen only once previously on our Thai trips. They had been present prior to our visit. Some sixty Little Pratincoles, two Citrine Wagtails, and a pair of Wire-tailed Swallows were also present. Just to the east in the rice paddies we located two Grey-headed Lapwings. From here we headed north, stopping briefly at a lake near the police post, and then continued on to Chiang Dao Cave and Pabong Temple. This forested area at the foot of Doi Chiang Dao provided excellent birding. In fact we returned here after lunch in the nearby town of Chiang Dao. New birds included Blue Rock-thrush, Two-barred Greenish Warbler, Puff-throated and Grey-eyed bulbuls, Bronzed Drongo and a cooperative Drongo Cuckoo. A pair of Pin-tailed Green-pigeons were particularly of interest, a scarce species we have only seen twice previously and that was a few decades ago. From here we continued north to Fang, our home for the next four nights.

The next morning we retraced our steps a bit and then headed west up the steep road up Doi Ang Khang. We initially birded around the army checkpoint and the nearby campground. Here we saw many birds, perhaps highlighted by the striking Giant Nuthatch. Other species noted included Stripe-breasted Woodpecker, Maroon Oriole, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Verditer Flycatcher, Mountain Tailorbird, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-babbler, Grey-throated Babbler, Yunan Fulvetta, Clicking Shrike-babbler, Silver-eared Mesia, Scarlet-faced Liocichla, Grey Bushchat, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, Olive-backed Pipit and Black-throated Sunbird. A party of White-necked Laughingthrushes were heard but typically remained out of sight. We checked another site just to the south and easily located several Brown-breasted Bulbuls. From here we continued on to the Royal Project where we had lunch but also birded. Here we found many Indian White-eyes, a scattering of Blue-winged Minlas, and some 20 striking Spot-winged Grosbeaks. Other species noted included Yellow-bellied Warbler (pair), Orange-bellied Leafbird, Black-breasted Thrushes, and a male White-tailed Robin. Brian located two Burmese Streaked Wren-babblers around the women’s restroom of the main complex, but unfortunately, they had moved on when we tried to find them. Perhaps the best bird was a Jerdon’s Baza which circled overhead, its identity confirmed by Uthai Treesucon and Philip Round. After lunch, we headed northeast along the spine of the ridge to a border (with Burma) checkpoint. Appropriately a pair of Burmese Shrikes was present, the male singing. Cook’s Swifts (a split from Fork-tailed Swift, also known as Pacific Swift) were numerous here and elsewhere. We then headed back down the mountain and back to Fang.

The next morning we were up well before dawn and headed up the southwest side of Doi Lang. We stopped at a known site where Mrs. Hume’s Pheasant sometimes appears. I say sometimes as we have missed them more often then we have connected. We had breakfast in the van and waited using the vans as a blind. Olive-backed Pipits were numerous and Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-babblers were about along with a stakeout beautiful male Ultramarine Flycatcher. And, after a good long while, the party of Mrs. Hume’s Pheasants appeared, one striking male and two females. As it turned out, they weren’t shy eventually approaching and walking near us. They remained for a good long time, time for numerous photos. Eventually, we carried on and checked the more protected and moist north side of the ridge. I should add that the pheasants did not appear the next morning where many in other groups waited for hours in vain. Here we found a male Rufous-bellied Niltava, Pale Blue, Slaty-blue and Rufous-gorgeted flycatchers. Also, a male Hodgson’s Frogmouth was sitting on a nest near the road, the same location where one nested last year. We also saw the White-spectacled Warbler here for its third winter, a first for Thailand. Pasith found the best bird, two Himalayan Cutias foraging along heavily vegetated tree limbs He spotted them last year here too, the first time we had encountered this beautiful large and compact babbler. We continued on a few more kilometers birding along the way noting White-browed Scimitar-babbler, Grey-capped Woodpecker (at a nest), Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, four species of minivets including Grey—chinned, a Scarlet-faced Liocichla, and four Crested Finchbills, a very distinctive species of bulbul. Two wintering Aberrant (Perplexing) Bush-warblers were well heard, but were only seen by a lucky few. Later in the afternoon we headed back down the mountain and returned to Fang for dinner and lodging.

Since the road on the northeast side of  Doi Lang was closed, we returned back on the same road on the southwest side We first checked a site where a party of Mountain Bamboo-Partridges had been frequenting last year in the early morning, but we saw no sign of them and missed the species this year. Other species noted included Large Cuckoo-shrike, Hill and Rufescent prinias, Spot-breasted Parrotbill (thanks Uthai for the information), Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Rufous-backed Sibia, and Pale Blue, Slaty-backed (male), and a male Sapphire Flycatcher, a scarce winter visitant to northern Thailand. We again located a Himalayan Cutia and also had good views of a Hume’s (Manipur) Treecreeper. Another highlight of the day was a Necklaced Woodpecker (Dryobates pernyii tenebrosus) at the end of the road which made a few brief appearances. Uthai (and others) had recorded it earlier in the day. This is a split from what is now called Crimson-naped Woodpecker (Dryobates cathpharius). Formerly when combined the English name of Crimson-breasted Woodpecker is widely used. Crimson-naped is found mainly in China while Necklaced is found to the south, as far south as extreme northern Thailand. The two species are nearly parapatric (abut but don’t quite overlap) in Myanmar (Burma). Later in the afternoon we visited Fang Hotstream in Doi Pha Hom Pok National Park. Here we briefly saw a Little Heron and a Slaty-backed Forktail. From here we headed back to Fang for dinner and our final night at the Sleeping Tree Hotel.

The next morning we drove north to the agricultural country south east of Mae Ai and Tha Ton. We started where some other birders had seen a couple of Eastern Water Rails. We found them here at the edge of a marshy pond. This is a rare winter visitor to Thailand and it is the first time we have recorded it on our tours. Two Pintail Snipe were also noted along with an adult male Pied Harrier. Other species noted, most in small numbers, included Grey-headed Lapwing (some 100 birds!), Wood Sandpiper, Common Snipe, Indochinese Bushlark, Plain Prinia, Dusky Warbler, Bluethroat, White-rumped Munia, Citrine Wagtail and Red-throated Pipit. We carefully looked through the Red-throated Pipits for Rosy Pipit, a winter visitor we have not recorded on our Thai tours. They had recently been reported here. I carefully checked references upon getting home, particularly Per Alstr?m’s and Krister Mild’s superb Pipits & Wagtails book published by Princeton University Press in 2003.There is a photographic section in the back and the photos of Rosy Pipits in basic (winter) plumage show a very long and bold supercilium, unlike any of the birds we saw. After a delicious lunch in Tha Ton we returned to Mae Ai to search for Yellow-breasted Bunting, a winter visitor in Thailand which breeds from Finland to the Russian Far East. It is now critically endangered, mainly due to it being trapped for food at its communal roost sites in migration and winter in eastern Asia. Despite the heat we searched the large field where they had been reported, but had no luck. We decided to take a break and wait in the shade and when it got later we noted a few Yellow-breasted Buntings flying over the dike where we were parked, both individuals and small flocks. We ventured out into the field and eventually got scope views of perched birds. In flight the males were easily recognizable by their yellow underparts and the distinct white patch in the shoulder (lesser wing coverts). In the end we estimated that we recorded eighty birds! From here we headed east to Chiang Saen some two hours away arriving in darkness at the Siam Triangle Hotel near the Golden Triangle where Burma (Myanmar), Thailand, and Laos meet.

The next morning we birded Chiang Saen Lake, including some new man-made ponds not too far away (Nongloom). Later in the day after lunch and too much time (my apologies) at the Golden Triangle, we went to Nong Luong Lake. For the day we encountered numerous waterfowl were numerous and we tallied some 100 Indian Spot-billed Ducks, 100 Garganey, and 750 Northern Pintail. Two Gadwall, 15 Green-winged (“Eurasian”) Teal, and ten Ferruginous Ducks were also noted. Other species of note included another Eastern Water Rail, Oriental Darter, Little Cormorant, Asian Openbill, Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged jacanas, Eurasian Wryneck (brief views), Racket-tailed Treepie and strangely our first Common Ioras.

The next morning we started at Nam Kham and sat in two blinds. Here we saw both Siberian Rubythroat and Baikal Grasshopper (Bush) –warbler. A calling Chinese Francolin was heard calling in the distance.We then returned to the network of new ponds. Along the way we noted both Pied and Eastern Marsh Harrier. The numbers of ducks at the ponds were pretty staggering, some 3000 Nothern Pintail and 300 Garganey, along with 25 Green-winged (“Eurasian”) Teal, 15 Tufted Ducks (termed rare in Thailand), a male Mallard, and a female Common Pochard. Also present were 50 Ruddy Shelducks, a large count for a species termed rare to uncommon in Thailand. Later in the morning, we drove towards Chiang Rai and then northwest to Doi Thng and afterward checked the small arboretum near the summit. We didn’t see many birds here, but up at the nearby Burma border at the checkpoint we noted a half dozen Olive-backed Pipits and a party of White-browed Laughingthrushes, our only ones of the tour. Afterwards we headed south to the Wiang Inn Hotel in central Chiang Rai.

On our final morning, we checked Nong Luang Lake east of town. Pheasant-tailed Jacanas were particularly numerous here (about 40) and we also noted another Eurasian Wryneck, an Oriental Reed-warbler, four Plain-backed Sparrows, six Common Snipes, a male Greater Painted-snipe and two Yellow Bitterns. We concentrated on checking the waterfowl. We saw a female Gadwall on the east side of the lake. There were more ducks to the west and we drove over and carefully looked through them: 22 Garganey, 35 Ferruginous Ducks, three female Tufted Ducks, and 26 striking Cotton Pygmy-Geese were noted. Both Brian and I kept scoping the core group of Ferruginous Ducks hoping for the rare Baer’s Pochard, but kept finding only Ferruginous Ducks, but then as it was nearing the time to consider leaving, suddenly there it was a male Baer’s Pochard with the core group of Ferruginous Ducks. It must have flown in from elsewhere on the lak. It remained in view for all to get good scope views and note the somewhat greenish head and more extensive white on the underparts. A few distant photos were taken. We have noted this species here (from one to several) the last three years. This duck is classed as critically endangered. Most of the remaining birds breed in China. From here we left for a buffet lunch and then departed to the airport where we said goodbye to our loyal crew and awaited our mid-afternoon flight back to Bangkok. After our arrival we  had a final buffet dinner at the Novotel. Some of the group would remain to continue on to the Central tour which started the next evening, while others headed home.

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