Senegal

Day 1: We begin this evening outside Dakar, Senegal, with a welcome talk at our group hotel. For early arrivals, our accommodation is surrounded by plenty of habitat and even a nature reserve to enjoy your first introduction to birds of Senegal. After dinner we’ll likely look for Standard-winged Nightjars which roost a short walk from our hotel.

Day 2: We’ll depart early, making our way north to the frontier town of Richard Toll. Birds should be conspicuous along the road, and we’ll make numerous stops. Charismatic Sahel species such as Long-tailed Glossy and Chestnut-bellied Starlings and both Abyssinian and Rufous-crowned Rollers may be among the first, and the skies should be filled with Yellow-billed Kites and occasional groups of White-backed Vulture and Eurasian and Rüppell’s Griffons. If we’re lucky, we may find a carcass surrounded by a horde of these huge and fascinating scavengers. Common species along the road will no doubt include Hooded Vulture, African Gray Hornbill, Piapiac, Pied Crow, Vinaceous Dove, and Little Bee-eater among many others, and we’ll keep an eye on the trees for Vieillot’s Barbet and Senegal Eremomela. 

Our hotel sits on the banks of the Senegal River where those who wish can enjoy a ‘sundowner’ while overlooking the comings and goings along the river. Night in Richard Toll. 

Day 3: We’ll venture farther east to the area around Podor and Gamadji Sare. Here, where the Sahel borders the Sahara, the acacias and low scrub are home to some classic birds of the region—Cricket Warbler, the tiny Sennar Penduline-Tit, Little Grey Woodpecker, and Golden Nightjar. Other species we can expect include African Collared and Namaqua Doves, Sudan Golden Sparrow, both Black and Rufous-tailed Scrub-Robins, and Senegal Batis. There should be many European migrants about including Woodchat Shrike and both Western Olivaceous and Western Bonelli’s Warblers, while Western Black-eared Wheatear is also possible, and perhaps even the recently split Atlas Wheatear. When in an ecological frontier like this, there is always the chance of a surprise—for example, the recent establishment of Horus Swift as a breeding species, a mere 1,000 miles from its nearest known colonies. Night in Gamadji Sare. 

Day 4: We’ll spend another day in the acacia groves and scrub of the north, perhaps catching up with Little Green Bee-eater, White-rumped Seedeater, or species we might be missing. In the more desert-like areas, we’ll try for views of a day-roosting Golden Nightjar and Fulvous Chatterer before driving westwards to the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary. En route, we’ll no doubt explore a few of the dry rice paddies where hordes of Red-billed Queleas and Yellow-crowned Bishops may be feeding and a Greater Painted-Snipe or two may be lurking in a quiet corner. We should arrive at the Djoudj in time to get an initial impression of this world-class wetland and to search for one of our major targets: the rather humble River Prinia. Only recently described, this unassuming bird is restricted to riverine wetlands in the Sahel, and those in the Djoudj are among the most accessible. Night in Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary. 

Day 5: The Djoudj is a seriously impressive, seasonally refreshed wetland. The first permanent fresh water south of the Sahara, it holds vast numbers of wintering Palearctic waterfowl along with an excellent selection of West African waterbirds. White-faced Whistling-Duck and Garganey are likely in large numbers and the huge colony of Great White Pelicans promises to be a wondrous spectacle. Time permitting, we’ll take a boat ride to get close to them. Other waterfowl include Marbled Duck, Fulvous Whistling-Duck, Spur-winged Goose, and Knob-billed Duck. Innumerable shorebirds, cormorants, herons, egrets, ibis, spoonbills, and flamingos will contribute to the cacophony. Also here are Greater Swamp Warbler, Winding Cisticola, and the very localized moptanus race of African Stonechat. In the drier areas, we should find Black Crowned-Crane, another Sahelian specialty, and we’ll search for the stately and declining Arabian Bustard, although views of this are never guaranteed, and for Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse. We’ll also hope for a couple of rather tricky estrildids; Quailfinch and Zebra Waxbill, and by now we may be familiar as well with at least two forms of the taxonomically confusing Great Grey Shrike complex. Night in Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary. 

Day 6: Leaving the Djoudj, we’ll drive south, birding the Senegal River estuary en route to where large concentrations of shorebirds, gulls, terns, and other waterbirds concentrate. We’ll sift through flocks of shorebirds such as Bar-tailed Godwit, Common Redshank, and Common Ringed Plover, and see if we can pick out Mediterranean Gull among the more common gulls. Night in Touba. 

Day 7: Nearby, an area of open dry country holds one of the tour’s star birds, the taxonomically and geographically enigmatic Quail-plover. Now considered an aberrant buttonquail, it is nowhere common or regular in its huge range across the drier parts of West and East Africa. If the previous season’s rainfall has been good, we’ll have a realistic chance of finding one in the dry bush and savannah. Please note that sometimes locating one requires a lot of walking. Other species could include Temminck’s Courser, Singing Bushlark, and Sahel Paradise-Whydah, while up in the skies we’ll be alert for Beaudouin’s Snake-Eagle and possibly Bateleur. As Quail-plover is such an important bird we’ve given over most of the day to look for it. After our hopes for success, we’ll drive to the town of Kaolack. If time permits, we’ll spend the afternoon along the river close to the town where we’ll be looking for another key species for the tour, the beautiful Scissor-tailed Kite. As the day wears on, large numbers of these graceful birds gather to roost on a riverine island, along with equally impressive numbers of Lesser Kestrels. These numbers do vary according to local conditions, ranging from many hundreds to many thousands. Nearby is an area of scrub that will give us our first chance for Savile’s Bustard.

Day 8: Leaving Kaolack we’ll drive further south to the town of Toubakouta, located on the Saloum Delta. We’ll spend some time birding the delta by boat where we’ll hope to find the locally rare White-crested Bittern, along with a fine variety of shorebirds, raptors, kingfishers, bee-eaters, and swallows. Night in Toubakouta.  

Day 9: If we miss White-crested Bittern, we may try for a second boat trip early this morning. Otherwise, we’ll make the drive east to the town of Tambacounda. This is a journey of at least five hours, but there will be stops for birding along the way. Brown Snake-Eagle should be present, along with Grasshopper Buzzard and Long-crested Eagle, while Martial Eagle is a distinct possibility. Night in Tambacounda.                      

Days 10-12: Continuing southeast, we’ll approach the border with Mali and the bustling town of Kedougou. There is a lot to look for here with the extremely range-restricted Mali (or Kulikoro) Firefinch high on our list, although we’ll have to check carefully as there are four other firefinch species possible! On one full day, we’ll head to the village of Dindefelo, located at the base of an imposing escarpment. The drive can produce some excellent birding, and we’ll be on lookout for Fox Kestrel, Four-banded Sandgrouse, and Sun Lark, while other possibilities include Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Yellow Penduline-Tit, Exclamatory Paradise-Whydah, Western Violet-backed Sunbird, and White-crested Helmetshrike. As we approach the escarpment, we should encounter a new set of species. Neumann’s Starling is restricted to rocky areas in the Sahel and is hard to find in most places, but here we have a realistic chance. Under the shade of the tall trees, Violet Turaco, Narina’s Trogon, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Green-headed Sunbird, Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat, and African Paradise-Flycatcher can be expected, while Red-throated Crag-Martin patrol the cliffs and Orange-cheeked Waxbill forage among the houses. There should as well be more Mali Firefinch and Pygmy Sunbird, and Gosling’s Bunting likes the wooded and rocky slopes. Other possibilities could include White-fronted Black-Chat and Dybowski’s Twinspot. With three nights here, we should have plenty of time to catch up with all of our targets. Nights in Kédougou. 

Day 13: We’ll depart early and make the short journey north to Wassadou. We’ll have most of the day to wander on foot around the wonderful, bird-filled Wassadou Camp, a superb spot on the Gambia River where Egyptian Plover vies for attention with African Finfoot and White-crowned Lapwing. The highly localized Adamawa Turtle-Dove is also present in good numbers. Gorgeous Red-throated and Northern Carmine Bee-eaters breed along the river, and we may be able to take a short boat trip to get close to these harlequins of the bird world. The possibilities here are many and include Palm-nut Vulture, Western Banded Snake-Eagle, Giant, Blue-breasted, and Shining-blue Kingfishers, Blue-bellied Roller, Stone Partridge, Swamp Flycatcher, Grey Tit-Flycatcher, African Blue Flycatcher, Bronze-tailed Starling, and Black-faced Firefinch (here of the highly localized race vinacea, sometimes treated as a separate species, Vinaceous Firefinch) among many, many others. 

In the evening we’ll listen for one of Africa’s most sought-after owls: Pel’s Fishing Owl. Sightings are never guaranteed, and the camp can go weeks without seeing them; nonetheless, we have a realistic chance of finding one, along with other nocturnal species such as Northern White-faced Owl, White-backed Night Heron, and Long-tailed Nightjar. Throughout our stay, the company of Green Monkeys, Western Red Colobus, and perhaps a snorkeling Hippopotamus will keep us entertained. Night in Wassadou. 

Day 14: We’ll have all morning to bird around Wassadou, cleaning up on anything we may have missed before driving to the town of Kolda. Night in Kolda. 

Day 15: We’ll continue west to the town of Ziguinchor in the remote region of Basse Casamance, the most southwesterly province of Senegal and separated from most of the country by The Gambia. Along the way we’ll make a stop at a forest reserve to stretch our legs and see what we can find. We’ll check in to our hotel later in the afternoon, then spend the afternoon birding locally.

Basse Casamance is seldomly visited by birders, but that seems set to change. Here, the last reaches of the Upper Guinea forests end at the Casamance River, and we’ll find an interesting set of birds waiting for us. A forest block near Ziguinchor holds a few pairs of Turati’s Boubou, a species thought to be restricted to the seldom-visited arc of Guinea-Bissau to Sierra Leone and only discovered in Senegal in 2018. Also present are Leaf-love, Western Nicator, Green Hylia, and Square-tailed Drongo. Night in Ziguinchor. 

Day 16: We’ll head further west towards Cap Skirring. We’ll make stops along the way and our first will be at an area of forest that holds White-spotted Flufftail, White-browed Forest-Flycatcher, Green Crombec, White-throated Greenbul, Grey-headed Bristlebill, Brown Illadopsis, and Chestnut-breasted Nigrita among many others. Night in Cap Skirring. 

Day 17: We'll have the morning to explore this fascinating region and in particular search for another highly localized species - the distinctive Capuchin Babbler. Good numbers of them inhabit this forest, along with Senegal Parrots and Red-bellied Paradise-Flycatchers. As if Capuchin Babblers were not hard enough to see in West Africa, a new proposal to split the species into three has resulted in the birds from Senegal to the western Ivory Coast becoming ‘Grey-hooded’ Capuchin Babblers. If we have time, we’ll search an area of marshes and dry paddy fields looking for such localized species as Quailfinch and Yellow-throated Longclaw. Close attention to quelea could turn up Red-headed among the many Red-billed Queleas and Yellow-crowned Bishops. Our luck with waterbirds will depend on water levels but wintering Montagu’s Harriers and circling vultures should feature. In the afternoon we’ll catch a domestic flight back to Dakar where the tour concludes in time for evening flights home.

2025 Narrative

Our tour began in the quiet coastal town of Popenguine, where a short post-dinner walk produced several Standard-winged Nightjars, accompanied by the raucous calls of Spur-winged Lapwings and a Senegal Thick-knee.

The next morning, we set off for the northern outpost of Richard Toll. Not far into the drive, a group of roosting vultures caught our attention—Hooded, White-backed, and Rüppell’s. We also encountered our first of many Eurasian Hoopoes, Chestnut-bellied Starlings, and Red-cheeked Cordonbleus.

Before reaching our lunch stop in Saint Louis, we birded a coastal lagoon, scanning through vast flocks of shorebirds. Among them were Black-bellied, Common Ringed, Kittlitz’s, and Kentish Plovers, along with Whimbrel, Black-tailed Godwit, and an assortment of sandpipers—Common, Marsh, and Curlew. We also spotted Common Redshank, Common Greenshank, Ruddy Turnstone, Dunlin, and Little Stint. The highlight, however, was an out-of-range American Golden-Plover—a rare national sighting. Adding to the spectacle, Greater Flamingos, Great White and Pink-backed Pelicans, and Crested Larks rounded out the morning.

As we entered town, a brief stop yielded Slender-billed, Black-headed, Gray-hooded, and Lesser Black-backed Gulls, as well as Eurasian Spoonbill, Pied Kingfisher, and both White and Western Yellow Wagtails. We then enjoyed a delicious bowl of Senegalese peanut soup, followed by locally roasted coffee—a perfect midday respite.

Continuing east, we checked into our riverfront accommodations overlooking the Senegal River, with Mauritania just across the water. With a couple of hours of daylight remaining, we set out for some nearby arid scrub to search for two key targets: Cricket Longtail and Fulvous Chatterer. The area was alive with bird activity—Sudan Golden Sparrows in large numbers, Black-headed Lapwings, Spotted Thick-knees, Blue-naped Mousebirds, Western Red-billed Hornbills, and both Great Gray and Woodchat Shrikes. We also encountered migrant Western Orphean Warblers and Northern Wheatears, along with Beautiful Sunbirds, Speckle-fronted Weavers, and half a dozen Black Scrub-Robins.

After some patient searching, we were rewarded with a stunning Cricket Longtail, which foraged at eye level right in front of us. Elated, we pressed on and soon located a small, noisy flock of Fulvous Chatterers. These lively babblers dashed across the ground and bounced up into low shrubs, providing a fantastic end to the outing. With our targets secured, we returned for a well-earned dinner.

We welcomed the sunrise from our accommodations along the Senegal River, watching a steady stream of birds moving up and down the river. Among them were Knob-billed Ducks, Black-crowned Night Herons, and both Squacco and Purple Herons. Overhead, an African Fish-Eagle soared, while Senegal Coucals called from the riverside vegetation. African Palm Swifts zipped by, an African Jacana foraged along the shore, and across the river in Mauritania, a Western Marsh Harrier patrolled the wetlands.

After breakfast, our main goal was to track down the diminutive Little Gray Woodpecker, and we found one quickly at a reliable site just down the road. Other highlights included Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, African Green Bee-eater, Striped Kingfisher, Brubru, Long-tailed Glossy Starling, and African Silverbill. Palearctic migrants were also well represented, with Western Olivaceous, Western Bonelli’s, and Western Subalpine Warblers, along with Common Chiffchaff, adding to the mix.

Continuing east toward Podor, the best region for the localized Golden Nightjar, we made a stop near our accommodations to observe a nesting colony of White-rumped and Little Swifts. The former, a relatively new arrival to Senegal, had extended its range by an 600 miles. We also enjoyed sightings of a few Cut-throats.

The rest of the afternoon was dedicated to our nightjar search. Our first walk came up empty, though we did spot another Cricket Longtail along with our first White-billed Buffalo-Weavers. We then turned our focus to a key hotspot for the species, methodically walking loops through its preferred habitat. Along the way, we picked up Zitting Cisticola, Greater Whitethroat, Village Indigobird, and a locally uncommon Western Black-eared Wheatear.

Just as dusk settled in, we heard the revealing call of a Golden Nightjar. Moments later, we had it in view—mission accomplished! Excitement and celebrations followed as we wrapped up another incredible day of birding.

The following morning, our focus shifted to the charming Sennar Penduline-Tit. We walked a loop through sparse scrub, eventually tracking one down alongside a Senegal Batis—both offering excellent views.

In the afternoon, we made our way toward Djoudj Bird Sanctuary, birding en route. Rice paddies along the way hosted our first African Pygmy-Geese, along with Little Ringed Plover, Ruff, Green and Wood Sandpipers, and Collared Pratincole. A nearby wetland added even more diversity, with Garganey, Northern Shoveler, Black Crake, Whiskered Tern, and Black Heron. A striking Malachite Kingfisher perched perfectly for viewing, while African Spoonbills mingled among their Eurasian counterparts. Some in the group even managed a fleeting glimpse of an African Wild Cat.

After checking into our accommodations in the heart of Djoudj, we walked to a small lake to witness an extraordinary spectacle—no fewer than 30,000 White-faced Whistling Ducks packed the water. This led to an impromptu game of "Where’s Waldo?" as we scanned for a handful of Fulvous Whistling Ducks mixed in. Other highlights included our first Eurasian Moorhen, Black-tailed Godwit, Lesser Flamingo, "Iberian" Yellow Wagtail, and a couple of cooperative Abyssinian Rollers.

As the evening progressed, our attention was drawn to the horizon, where an astonishing mass of Collared Pratincoles darkened the sky—at least ten thousand strong—soaring over the marsh. It was a breathtaking scene, the largest recorded gathering here to date, though the true number could have been even greater. A truly unforgettable end to the day.

After a good night’s sleep—occasionally interrupted by the eerie screeches of a resident Barn Owl—we set off for a full day in Djoudj Bird Sanctuary. Our morning began with a quick but successful search for one of our main targets, the elusive River Prinia. As we continued, we encountered our first of several African Golden Wolves before arriving at several bird hides overlooking a vast lake teeming with waterfowl. Despite a thorough search of the surrounding scrub, Arabian Bustards remained elusive—for now. The hides, however, provided spectacular views of thousands of ducks and shorebirds, including around a thousand Northern Pintails and Northern Shovelers, alongside more than 5,000 Greater and Lesser Flamingos. Returning to our accommodations for lunch, we explored some dense shrubs and were rewarded with views of several Long-tailed Nightjars at their daytime roost.

In the afternoon, we embarked on a boat trip to the massive pelican breeding colony. Along the way, we spotted African Swamphen, Yellow-billed Stork, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, and Common Reed Warbler. The colony itself was a spectacle, with approximately 6,000 Great White Pelicans crowding the nesting grounds. A few Pink-backed Pelicans were mixed in, while African Sacred Ibises roosted nearby. Beyond birds, the wetlands also hosted West African Nile Monitors and West African Crocodiles. On our return, with some effort, we all managed to get excellent views of a Greater Swamp Warbler.

With some daylight left, we made one last attempt to find Arabian Bustards. Along the way, a flock of 114 Gray Crowned-Cranes provided a breathtaking sight, followed by a Montagu’s Harrier gliding past. After a focused search, success at last—we found a pair of Arabian Bustards not far from the track! We enjoyed extended views of these magnificent birds before heading back for a well-earned dinner.

Before departing Djoudj the next morning, we took a short walk in search of Greater Painted-Snipe. Along the way, we picked up several new trip birds, including Pied Avocets, Zebra Waxbills, and Spotted Redshank. After some patient scanning, a striking female Greater Painted-Snipe finally emerged, offering excellent views.

The rest of the morning was spent retracing our route south before continuing onward to our destination for the night, the town of Touba. Along the way, we made several productive stops, adding Rufous-tailed Scrub-Robin, Allen’s Gallinule, Winding Cisticola, Northern Anteater-Chat, and an Eurasian Griffon to our growing list.

We set off early the next morning for the traditional Quail-Plover site, a place where most birders see this elusive species. Unfortunately, this year had been one of the worst in recent history for Quail-Plover sightings, with most tour groups coming up empty-handed. Despite having five individuals here on our last tour, our search yielded none. However, the morning was far from uneventful—we recorded our first Beaudouin’s Snake-Eagle, African Gray Woodpecker, Singing Bushlark, Black-crowned Tchagra, Desert Cisticola, Pygmy Sunbird, and Tawny Pipit. We also flushed at least four Savile’s Bustards.

Pressing on, we made our way to Kaolack for lunch and checked into our hotel. The afternoon held exciting prospects as we prepared for a visit to a nearby island where Scissor-tailed Kites gather to roost. With time to spare before dusk, we explored a scrubby area, adding some key species to our list, including White-bellied Bustard, Temminck’s Courser, and Abyssinian Ground Hornbill.

As sunset approached, we took a canoe across a narrow channel and walked the secluded island to witness the kite spectacle up close. The sight was breathtaking—no fewer than 4,000 Scissor-tailed Kites swirled overhead before settling into the largest trees, joined by a few dozen Lesser Kestrels. I nice way to cap off the day.

The next morning, we made another attempt at a site known to host Quail-Plover, but once again, luck was not on our side. Despite the miss, we did spot our first Piapiacs and another Singing Bushlark while searching.

As the morning progressed, we continued our journey toward Toubacouta, arriving at our beautiful accommodation overlooking the Saloum Delta. In the afternoon, we set off on a small boat to explore the delta, navigating through narrow channels lined with overhanging mangroves. Our main target was the elusive White-crested Bittern. Though the bittern remained out of sight (for now), we added Black-billed Wood-Dove, Striated Heron, Senegal Parrot, Wire-tailed Swallow, and Village Weaver. We also had some Gambian Epauletted Fruit Bats flying overhead.

The next morning, we waited for the tides to shift before heading back out in search of the bittern. Meanwhile, we explored the area around our accommodation and a nearby forest, adding several new species to our list, including Double-spurred Spurfowl, Lavender Waxbill, Western House-Martin, African Golden Oriole, Variable Sunbird, and Northern Yellow White-eye. A particular highlight was the elusive Yellow Penduline-Tit, one of our key targets. We also heard a group of Stone Partridges calling in the distance, though we would get better views of them later in the trip.

Once back on the boat, we picked up several Eurasian Oystercatchers and caught a brief call from a Mouse-brown Sunbird before turning into a particularly promising mangrove-lined channel. As we drifted between two towering walls of greenery, sharp eyes finally spotted our main prize— a White-crested Bittern standing motionless among the mangrove roots. Success!

Buoyed by our find, we returned to pack up and continued east toward Tambacounda. A brief stop en route rewarded us with distant views of a couple of Sahel Paradise-Whydahs and our first of many Sahel Bush Sparrows. With some daylight remaining at our next accommodation, a short walk behind the property produced our first Yellow-billed Shrikes and excellent views of the striking Yellow-crowned Gonolek, a fitting end to another rewarding day.

As we continued south, the landscape transformed. The arid Sahel gradually gave way to lusher savanna, bringing an influx of new species. The denser vegetation and increased rainfall created a noticeable shift in the birdlife.

We started the morning near Wassadougou, birding along a roadside for about an hour. Here, we were introduced to some of the region’s more common species, including our first Red-eyed Dove, Hadeda Ibis, Red-throated Bee-eater, White-crested Helmetshrike, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, and an abundance of Northern Red Bishops, accompanied by a few Black-rumped Waxbills. Raptors were also well represented, with sightings of African Harrier-Hawk, Gabar Goshawk, Red-necked Falcon, and African Hawk-Eagle. To top off a productive morning, we tracked down a striking Fine-spotted Woodpecker. As we made our way toward Kédougou, our base for the next three nights, we added a few more raptors to the list, including Grasshopper Buzzards, a Brown Snake-Eagle, and a soaring Bateleur.

Following a midday break during the heat of the day, we set out for some target birding in the late afternoon. Our first stop yielded an excellent sighting of a Sun Lark, which perched obligingly atop a bush, offering fantastic photo opportunities. Nearby, we also spotted our first Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark. A short visit to a stream added Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Blackcap Babbler, and a flyover Wahlberg’s Eagle to our growing list.

We wrapped up the day at a breathtaking escarpment, where two key targets awaited. Adamawa Turtle-Doves greeted us in good numbers, while a pair of noisy Violet Turacos put on an entertaining show. Climbing to a reliable site for Mali Firefinch, we were thrilled to find at least four individuals—one of the most challenging species to locate in this region. With this success under our belts, we turned our attention back to the escarpment face, where we enjoyed views of Mocking Cliff-Chats, a flyby Lanner Falcon, and, at last, our other main target—a flock of seven Neumann’s Starlings. A fantastic end to an incredible day.

The following day, we concentrated on birding just outside of Kédougou, aiming to track down any remaining target species in the area. We set out on a loop south of town, where we encountered Bruce’s Green-Pigeons, a Dark-chanting Goshawk, a White-shouldered Black-Tit, and a pair of Red-winged Prinias. The real highlights, however, were two uncommon Brown-rumped Buntings, a Singing Cisticola, and a remarkably cooperative Cisticola—the latter marking the first-ever eBird record for the entire Kédougou region. Before heading back for lunch, we had yet another unexpected bonus: a migrant Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush, an exceptionally rare sighting with only a dozen eBird records for the entire country.

Although the afternoon walk didn’t produce any major surprises, we still managed to add several new species to our growing trip list. Highlights included Wattled Lapwing, Lizard Buzzard, Green Woodhoopoe, Bearded Barbet, Northern Puffback, and a migrant European Pied Flycatcher.

The next morning promised excellent birding, and we set off early to reach the village of Dindefelo by sunrise. Nestled at the base of an escarpment, this area provided an opportunity to target a range of species unlikely to be found elsewhere on the trip.

Walking a productive trail along a small stream, we quickly spotted the local celebrity—Willock’s Honeyguide—perched in its usual tree. A recent arrival to Senegal, this single tree remains the only known location for the species in the country.

Continuing along the trail, we picked up a fantastic mix of species, including Guinea Turaco, Klaas’s Cuckoo, Narina Trogon, Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike, African Blue Flycatcher, Northern Black Flycatcher, Western Violet-backed and Green-headed Sunbirds, Olive-naped Weaver, Familiar Chat, and both Snowy-crowned and White-crowned Robin-Chats. A Gambian Sun Squirrel was also a nice addition to our growing mammal list.

At the end of the trail, we arrived at an incredible waterfall set within a stunning forest. Here, Red-throated Crag-Martins swooped overhead, and we also spotted a flyover Red-necked Buzzard.

On our way back toward lunch, we had one of the major highlights of the tour—an incredibly cooperative pair of Dybowski’s Twinspots! This tricky species is always a challenge to find, and for the second tour in a row, a pair was present at the same location. Additionally, we had two more Mali Firefinches, a species that is typically difficult to find, though this year, we were fortunate to encounter them at multiple locations. Retracing our steps northward, we returned to Wassadou, where we would spend the night overlooking the Gambia River. This stunning property offers excellent birding opportunities, especially by boat.

Arriving mid-morning, we took a walk around camp, quickly adding Cardinal Woodpecker, a singing Willow Warbler, and several Bronze-tailed Starlings. Turning our focus to the river, we were rewarded with views of a Giant Kingfisher and an African Finfoot, which moved stealthily along the riverbank, appearing and disappearing among the overhanging vegetation.

Our late afternoon boat trip proved to be a resounding success. Right from the start, we encountered White-crowned Lapwing, Gray-headed and Blue-breasted Kingfishers, and a Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl perched in a nest overlooking the river. Meanwhile, the resident Green Monkeys and Guinea Baboons created quite a commotion, while Hippos kept a watchful eye on us from the water.

Further along, we spotted a couple of Western Banded Snake-Eagles perched along the river and a Swamp Flycatcher sitting quietly on a low branch. An Oriole Warbler made a brief appearance, while African Pied Wagtails were more conspicuous. Then came the moment we had been hoping for—a magnificent pair of Egyptian Plovers! We watched them for an extended time on a sandy island, snapping plenty of photos before making our way back toward camp. As a fitting end to the day, we stopped at a Northern Carmine Bee-eater colony, adding a splash of color to the fading light of sunset.

The following day was primarily a travel day, but before departing, we had some time to explore the camp and a nearby trail. This productive morning added African Woolly-necked Stork, Palm-nut Vulture, Common Redstart, Pale Flycatcher, and a bonus Red-winged Pytilia. After carefully scrutinizing the numerous Vitelline Masked-Weavers, we finally picked out a few pale-eyed Hueglin’s Masked-Weavers—an uncommon find. We also enjoyed more views of Egyptian Plovers, Oriole Warblers, and an African Hawk-Eagle, among others.

By late afternoon, we arrived at our hotel in Kolda. With some daylight remaining, we ventured to a wetland near town—an area likely never visited by birders before. The remainder of the tour would take us through a region of Senegal that no other birding tours explore, and few birders visit in general.

In just a short walk, we recorded over 50 species, including our first African Pygmy Kingfisher and African Red-rumped Swallows. We also had more sightings of Oriole Warbler, Lavender Waxbill, and a variety of other species. As dusk fell, a couple of us were treated to the sight of a Yellow-winged Bat swooping down to take a drink from the hotel’s pool.

The following morning, we headed west into the Casamance region of Senegal. Our first stop at a protected forest area yielded Swallow-tailed and European Bee-eaters, Yellow-bellied Hyliota, flocks of Lesser Blue-eared Starlings, and a rare surprise—a male Red-headed Weaver. This species is quite scarce in Senegal, with fewer than a dozen eBird records. We made a few more stops along the way, adding African Green Pigeon and Blue-bellied Roller to our list before checking into our hotel and having lunch along the Casamance River.

After lunch, we visited a nearby patch of forest, known for occasionally turning up some surprises. Unfortunately, the area had experienced more disturbance in recent years and had a number of people, but we still managed to spot some great species, including Mottled Spinetail, West African Pied Hornbill, Sharpe’s Drongo, Gray-headed Bristlebill, Olive Sunbird, and the aptly named Splendid Sunbird.

Southwest Senegal is the only region in the country where you can find many West African species that spill just over the border. One particularly exciting species, the Turati’s Boubou, has only recently become chaseable in the country and was the main focus of our next morning.

We arrived at a small village and began birding in an area with impressive trees towering over the farm plots. Unfortunately, this forest patch is shrinking every year, but thankfully, many birds are still thriving here. We added Lesser Honeyguide, Black-headed Paradise-Flycatcher, Green Crombec, Green Hylia, Leaf-Love, Little Greenbul, and Collared Sunbird to our growing list.

Next, we turned our attention to the elusive Turati’s Boubou, a species found only in Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, and Sierra Leone—countries few people get to visit. Retracing our steps to a reliable location from the previous tour, we were fortunate to find a pair. These birds are typically quite secretive, but this pair sat out in the open for an incredible amount of time, allowing everyone to get closer and get some of the best photos of the species I’ve ever seen!

In the afternoon, we traveled toward Cap Skirring along the coast, our final destination. Along the way, we birded a few fragmented forests, but the midday heat made it challenging. However, a very brief glimpse of a Blue-billed Malimbe marked only the 5th eBird record for the country, adding an unexpected find for the day.

One of the main reasons we visit the southwest of Senegal is to search for the Capuchin Babbler, and the final morning was dedicated to tracking down this specialty. With a bit of effort and by positioning ourselves on the edge of some open shrubs where we heard birds calling, we successfully called in four individuals. They cooperated very well and gave us fantastic views and, for some, really great photos.

Afterward, we headed up the coast to see what else we could find. We were rewarded with our first White-throated Bee-eaters and two bonus Martial Eagles, which are typically difficult to find in Senegal. Our last stop of the trip was at the beach, where a quick scan added our final two new birds to the trip list: West African Crested Terns and Brown Boobies flying offshore.

It was an excellent conclusion to another fantastic Senegal tour, and we couldn’t have asked for a better group to travel with!

                                                                                                                                                                            -          Ethan Kistler

Back to Narratives