Panama: Darién Lowlands

Day 1: The tour begins in the evening with an introductory meeting in the lobby of our Panama City hotel. Night in Panama City.

Day 2: We’ll begin with an early departure for the Darién lowlands, a biologically rich area that marks the easternmost extent of several species whose ranges are more typical of adjacent Colombia. As we travel east we’ll keep an eye out for open-country birds such as White-tailed Kite, Savannah Hawk, and Crested Caracara. If the road conditions allow, we’ll visit the Nusagandi area, a forested valley managed and protected by the local Guna people. We’ll make a trek along one of the winding, occasionally steep and/or muddy trails through the forest, looking for local specialties. Our principal target here is the enigmatic Sapayoa, a monotypic family that has recently been shown to be related to the colorful Old World broadbills. Given enough time we’ll also bird along the main road, where tanager flocks containing Tawny-crested, Sulphur-rumped, Black-and-yellow, Rufous-winged, and Speckled Tanagers can be common. We’ll then head farther east past Lake Bayano for a stop at a small restaurant with hummingbird feeders and dense gardens. While having lunch we should see Snowy-bellied, Rufous-tailed, Scaly-breasted, and Sapphire-throated Hummingbirds and a nice mix of open-country birds. After lunch we’ll continue on into the Darién, arriving at the Canopy Camp in the late afternoon. Night at the Canopy Camp.

Day 3: We’ll spend most of our first full day here birding around the camp and on some of its many forest trails. A dawn start will allow us to experience the sounds of the forest waking up. Yellow-throated and Keel-billed Toucans and Red-lored, Mealy, and Blue-headed Parrots should all be perched around the camp clearing, and White-bellied Antbirds and chattering mixed flocks will call from the forest edge. After breakfast we’ll make our way to one of the nearby camp trails, where we’ll seek out Darién specialties such as Double-banded Graytail, Barred Puffbird, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Ochre-lored Flatbill, and the diminutive and beautiful Golden-headed Manakin. After lunch and some relaxation that could include watching Pale-bellied Hermits and Sapphire-throated Hummingbirds attending flowers and feeders around the camp, we’ll again head out on a nearby trail looking for a host of great birds. We hope to encounter raucous Red-throated Caracaras or perhaps a nice mixed flock with Bright-rumped Attila, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, or Cinnamon Becard. Depending on the conditions of the day, we may also venture out to a stretch of the nearby Pan American Highway. Near the little-traveled end of the road, the birding can be excellent, with such possibilities as Spectacled Parrotlet, Bicolored Wren, and a host of more open-country birds as well. After dinner we’ll step outside to look for nightbirds around the clearing: Crested, Spectacled, and Mottled Owls are all possible, as are Great and Common Potoos and Common Pauraques. Night at the Canopy Camp.

Day 4: Today we’ll head to the northeast, entering the lands of the Embera people, between the end of the Pan-American Highway and the Colombian border. We’ll head for the small community of Nuevo Vigia Embera, arriving via the “local highway,” that is to say, by dugout canoes. Initially we’ll spend time in a mix of agricultural fields and scrub where we hope to find Striped Cuckoo, Plain-breasted Ground-Dove, Smooth-billed Ani, Giant and Shiny Cowbirds, and a wide array of tanagers, pigeons, and raptors. Farther along on the road we’ll cross the Cuchunaque River, keeping an eye out for waterbirds such as Pied Water-Tyrant and also for Neotropical River Otters plying the banks. After the river crossing, we’ll start to see patches of good forest, where we hope to encounter Black Antshrike, White-bellied and Bare-crowned Antbirds, Barred, Pied, and White-necked Puffbirds, and perhaps parrots like Chestnut-fronted Macaw or Spectacled Parrotlet. Small wetlands are scattered along the road here, supporting large numbers of Wattled Jacana and perhaps Green Ibis or the generally scarce Black-collared Hawk. We’ll look especially hard for Dusky-backed Jacamar, a poorly known species with a small worldwide range that occurs along the creeks here. A short walk into the forest to a sheltered oxbow lake could produce views of Rufescent Tiger-Herons or perhaps even Boat-billed or Agami Herons as well as Green-and-rufous and American Pygmy Kingfishers. On this trail we also have a chance of seeing several of the harder-to-find Darien specialties, such as Gray-cheeked Nunlet, Golden-green Woodpecker, Streaked Xenops, or even Black-billed Flycatcher. This visit will also give us an opportunity to make a quick stop in a small Embera village, where local artisans sell intricately woven baskets and masks. Night at the Canopy Camp.

Day 5: After breakfast we’ll drive to the El Salto Road, just a few minutes from camp, for the morning. Extending about 3.5 miles from the Pan-American Highway and ending at the banks of the Chucunaque River, the road passes through dry forest that harbors Scaled and Ruddy Pigeons, Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Black and Crested Oropendolas, Golden-green Woodpecker, and the flashy Orange-crowned Oriole. The road winds along a ridge that occasionally offers a good view of the open sky, where we could see some of the thousands of raptors that pass through Panama their way from North American breeding grounds. We’ll look for familiar species (to North Americans) such as Broad-winged, Short-tailed, and Swainson’s Hawks, joining more tropical species such as Crane Hawk, Double-toothed Kite, and perhaps Black or Ornate Hawk Eagle. A short trail near the end of the road runs along the Cuchunaque River and gives access to a dry forest patch where we’ll look for birds such as Rufous-tailed Jacamar and Great Antshrike, and perhaps even encounter an antswarm with attendant Northern Barred Woodcreepers or Gray-headed Tanagers. In the afternoon we’ll head south along the road to Las Lagunas. Extending about 7.5 miles from the Pan-American Highway, the road crosses several small streams and terminates at some large ponds. Here we’ll look for Muscovy Duck, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Capped Heron, Scaly-breasted Hummingbird, Buff-breasted Wren, Black-capped Donacobius, Shiny and Giant Cowbirds, and Yellow-hooded Blackbird. Raptors abound in the ranchlands as well, and we’ll look for Savannah Hawk, White-tailed and Pearl Kites, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, and Bat and Aplomado Falcons. Recent excellent sightings here include several views of Little Cuckoo, a species that barely crosses into North America. Night at the Canopy Camp.

Day 6: The destination for this day will be flexible, but will involve an all day trip into the Darien National Park, again using a combination of four-wheel drive trucks and dugout canoe to access primary forest.  If there are any known nesting sites for Harpy or Crested Eagle that are feasibly reachable from the camp we shall make the attempt.  If not, we’ll visit the town of El Real, a small village adjacent to the park that is accessed via an hour-long boat ride from the end of the highway at Yaviza. While on the river we’ll watch the water’s edge for Common Black and Black-collared Hawks, Neotropic Cormorant, Anhinga, a host of herons including Cocoi and perhaps Capped, White, and Green Ibis, shorebirds, and Black Oropendola.  High quality forest lies within a half-hour drive of town, and we’ll seek out an array of lowland specialties such as Ruddy Pigeon, Great Jacamar, Red-throated Caracara, Chestnut-fronted and Great Green Macaws and an array of other raptors that might include Black, Ornate or Black-and-White Hawk-Eagles.  Night at the Canopy Camp.

Day 7: We’ll start with an early breakfast followed by our farewell to the Canopy Camp. On the way back to Panama City we’ll stop at the San Francisco Nature Reserve, a 1300-acre private forest reserve managed by the St. Francis Foundation. Established in 2001 by Father Pablo Kasuboski, an American priest from Wisconsin, the reserve protects the headwaters of the main rivers of the area as well as its wildlife. The foundation also works on infrastructure development, building and maintaining aqueducts, roads, schools, and churches. The reserve has a variety of habitats— primary, secondary, and riparian forests, forest edge, fields, farmland, ponds, and wetlands—and during our morning here we’ll explore some of them along the short entrance road. We hope to find Boat-billed Heron, Great Jacamar, Broad-billed Motmot, Rufous-winged Schiffornis, Royal Flycatcher, Yellow-green Tyrannulet, Central American Pygmy-Owl, and Blue and Plain-breasted Ground-Doves. Coming back into Panama City, we’ll stop at several prime birding areas around Lake Bayano, the Río Torti, and the Río Mono to track down any species we may have missed on the drive east. We’ll reach our hotel near the airport in the late afternoon. Night in Panama City.

Day 8: The trip concludes this morning in Panama City.

2024 Narrative

IN BRIEF: Panama’s vast and sparsely populated Darien Province contains some of the most remote and wild lowland and montane wilderness remaining in Central America. From the end of the highway in the port town of Yaviza to the mountains along the Colombian border there are virtually no roads, and the local Embera and Wounaan people use small dugout canoes to travel around and transport their goods. In early 2014 the Canopy Tower company completed work on a comfortable permanent tented camp near the end of the highway that backs onto an excellent forest reserve protecting the watershed for the nearby town of Sanson. These large tents, positioned on hardwood platforms with decks that give excellent views of the surrounding forest offer individual bathrooms and showers, electricity and full-sized comfortable beds. The camp grounds have been heavily planted with flowering and fruiting plants, and we awoke each morning to the sounds of calling Yellow-throated and Keel-billed Toucans, Cinnamon Becards, Whooping Motmots and a bubbling flock of Chestnut-headed Oropendolas that were happily denuding the camp of bananas. The feeders attract a nice array of mammals as well, with daily visits from White-throated Capuchin, Geoffrey’s Tamarin, White-nosed Coati and Red-tailed Squirrel, and evening visits by a varied set of characters including Crab-eating Racoon, Common Opossum and Kinkajou. 

Although much of the primary forest that remains is far off the road system we spent a very enjoyable week birding around the end of the road and out into the beginnings of Embera territory. The bird highlights were many, from the active Harpy Eagle nest site with both the male and female in attendance, an incredible sweep of all four species of possible Macaws (including the critically endangered Great Green) a dazzling Blue Cotinga gleaming from the treetops, Black Antshrikes lurking in the undergrowth, Spot-breasted and Golden-green Woodpeckers working trees just overhead, a Dusky-backed Jacamar sitting out for us in excellent light, point blank views of Great Curassow and excellent studies of an array of range-restricted species such as White-headed Wren, Spot-crowned Barbet, Double-banded Greytail, Black Antshrike, Grey-cheeked Nunlet and the endemic Yellow-green Tyrannulet. These areas in the Darien are little explored and I am sure that the creation of a comfortable lodge here will continue to produce a lot of new discoveries. I very much look forward to returning next fall! 

IN FULL: We started off the 2024 WINGS visit to the Canopy Camp Darien by visiting the rolling ridges along the continental divide in Nusagandi. We made a brief stop at the petrol station at the bottom of the road, where we had a quick breakfast in the company of our first birds. Perhaps our best find here was a perched Squirrel Cuckoo in the hedgerow behind the building, but the flocks of migrating Barn Swallows and distantly perched Red-lored Parrots were good too. We then headed north on the newly repaved road, on the way crossing through some excellent foothill forest. The road crosses into Kuna Yala territory and eventually reaches a large native community on the Caribbean coast. On the way up to the trailhead we stopped when we noted a bit of activity along the road. The mixed flock was already across the road and heading deeper into the forest when we started birding, but we still drummed up a perched Slaty-tailed Trogon and a Rufous Piha; an auspicious start to the day’s birding! 

We have not been able to visit this area for several years due to the previously poor road conditions and Covid, and when we arrived, we found a few things had changed since our last visit. The chief change was that the Kuna now have a firmer border, and now allow access only with park rangers in attendance. It took a few minutes to get it all organized but soon enough we were set to take a newly signed trail into the park. Since the trail was little traveled we found it a bit brushy and muddy, but by going slowly we navigated it without too much difficulty. Normally around Nusagandi we target the enigmatic Sapayoa, but because of the recent rains the shorter (and much steeper) trail that we often take down to a pretty forested creek was not safely negotiable. We planned to walk about a kilometer out into the forest on a new trail that the park guards assured us was “flat”. I think the locals must have a different definition of that word, as the trail wound up and around through short but steep-sided hills that were covered in excellent forest. This trail proved quiet, but by moving slowly we eventually intersected with a couple of small mixed flocks and a few canopy birds of interest. The best mixed flock held all three of the three common understory antwrens, dubbed the three amigos by many Panamanian birders. In quick succession we enjoyed White-flanked, Dot-winged and Checker-throated Antwrens as well as an unusually cooperative Long-billed Gnatwrens (a bird which seems to be all bill and tail) and a pair of very vocal and showy Stripe-throated Wrens. Here too was a small group of Tawny-capped Euphonia, a Black-crowned Antshrike and a single Spot-crowned Antvireo. Elsewhere in the understory we tracked down calling Song Wren and Chestnut-backed Antbirds and enjoyed several views of a stunning Red-capped Manakin with its head glowing like a fiery will-o’-wisp, and a small flock of Tawny-crested Tanagers. After spending a bit of time admiring a pair of handsome Slate-colored Grosbeaks (actually a species of Saltator) that were up in the canopy over the trail and regularly calling with an odd two-part call that we don’t hear around the tower we started back to the road. A little frog in the trail captivated us for a few minutes as it hopped into some brush and then posed wonderfully on a large dead leaf. It proved to be a Striped Rocket Frog, which is a type of poison dart frog that is clad in understated colours. Once back at the main road most of the group walked for a few hundred meters back south along the road. Even though it was by now mid-morning and quite sunny and hot we found some fruiting trees that were hosting a large group of Tawny-crested Tanagers, Red-capped and White-ruffed Manakins and an Olive-striped Flycatcher. A bit further along we flushed a large bird from the midcanopy and were able to follow it as it moved further back into the woods. It joined a second bird, and we could just make out the pairs large red wattles that marked them as Crested Guans; a scarce species through most of Panama, and a write-in for the trip cumulative list! 

Leaving the Nusagandi area behind we descended back to the pacific lowlands and then turned eastwards, passing the huge reservoir of Lake Bayano and stopping at the famous (in birding circles) Puente Rio Mono. The bridge acts a bit like a canopy tower, giving us a nearly eye-level view of the upper parts of the canopy. Initially the area didn’t seem particularly active, but as we stood on the bridge and surveyed the forest we tracked down several Bay-breasted Warblers (which we were looking directly down on) and a little group of active birds up in the canopy which proved to be White-eared Conebills; a small tanager that is found from roughly this site eastwards to western Venezuela. The forest around the bridge had a few fruiting trees that were attracting Orange-chinned Parakeets and Blue Dacnis, and a little mixed flock over the creek held a Yellow-throated Vireo and a very showy Violet-bellied Hummingbird. For a 15-minute mid-day stop it was remarkably productive! 

We pressed on eastwards, reaching our customary roadside restaurant in the town of Torti in good time for lunch. Here we found several hummingbird and fruit feeders in the making for some excellent birding while we enjoyed our pre-ordered cooked lunches. A hulking Scaly-breasted Hummingbird was doing its best to control all three of the hummingbird feeders on the deck, but despite its efforts we also enjoyed looks at our first Sapphire-throated, Rufous-tailed and Snowy-bellied Hummingbirds. Although the hanging bunch of bananas was well past its prime there was a steady procession of frugivores picking over the remains. Some, like the Tennessee Warbler and Summer Tanager were migrants, but others, such as Blue Dacnis, Orange-chinned Parakeet and Clay-colored Thrush were residents. While we were on the patio, we also witnessed active Turkey Vulture migration, with a steady trickle of birds passing overhead and a few migrant Wood Storks mixed in. Perhaps the most exciting bird here though was the very photogenic Whooping Motmot which came by the deck at regular intervals, perhaps hoping that the bananas would be replaced. After lunch, we made the final hour and a half drive to the camp, arriving by the late afternoon, with time for our lodge orientation, which was interrupted regularly by birds foraging just off the deck.  

The clearing around the camp has been liberally stocked with hummingbird-friendly plants, and in addition to those flowers the camp staff maintain a half-dozen feeders placed all around the dining area. These feeders, especially those in the shade by the rocking chairs, were being rapidly drained by a horde of hungry hummingbirds. Likely the most common species here were White-necked Jacobin and Sapphire-throated Hummingbirds. By staking out the feeders and flowering Verbenas though we also noted our first Blue-chested Hummingbirds and Pale-bellied Hermits, and had excellent views at just the right angle to fully enjoy the dazzling colours on a male Long-billed Starthroat and several White-vented Plumeleteers. A short walk around the grounds revealed all three of the local toucan species, with Keel-billed Toucan and Collared Aracari and a few huge-billed Yellow-throated Toucans. Both Chestnut-headed and Crested Oropendolas were coming into the fruit tables, and in one of the large fruiting Lantana bushes we were thrilled to spot both Golden-collared and Golden-headed Manakins. It was a busy hour or so around the lodge, which definitely whet our appetite for a more thorough investigation the following morning. 

For our first full day around the Darien, we opted to spend the morning birding on the grounds and driveway of the lodge. It’s an amazingly productive area, and over the three hours or so that we were wandering around we recorded over 80 species; likely never getting more than 500m from our tents! Several fruit feeder platforms have been artfully arranged around the dining area of the lodge, and in the morning, these were attracting a steady stream of Chestnut-headed Oropendolas (and one bulky Crested for comparison), some gaudy Collared Aracaris, and a nice selection of mammals including hungry Geoffrey’s Tamarins, a portly Red-tailed Squirrel, a White-nosed Coati and a small group of White-throated Capuchins that were strolling around as if they owned the place. The moth sheet was bringing in a few predators eager to pick off the assembled insects including a handsome Streaked Flycatcher, a Whooping Motmot and a couple of Bay-breasted Warblers. The trees around the lodge held a very vocal pair of Cinnamon Becards as well as a nice comparison views of Fulvous-vented, Yellow-crowned and Thick-billed Euphonias. We didn’t get very far down the driveway before coming to a lengthy halt as a small mixed flock was in the woods near the parking area. Here we enjoyed our first Plain-brown and Streak-headed Woodcreepers, a perched Rufous-breasted Hermit, remarkably confiding Ruddy-tailed and Ochre-bellied Flycatchers and less confiding Royal Flycatcher. A little understory flock was around in the back of the upper clearing, and here we teased out a male Black Antshrike (a Darien specialty in Panama) as well as a pair of Black-crowned Antshrike, some White-flanked Antwren, our first Northern Plain Xenops and a pair of White-winged Becards. The clearing also produced a lovely Lineated Woodpecker that was hammering away at a small branch way up in a Cercropia tree, a pair of Ochre-lored Flatbills (which elicited a bit of a discussion about just what Ochre is), and a pair of Cinnamon Woodpeckers which showed off their striking plumage to excellent effect in the scopes. As we walked a bit further down the road we were distracted by the wealth of insects around the flowering plants on the road edge. Some of the bug highlights of the morning included an excellent small mantis that was doing an amazingly good impression of lichen, a fairly scarce skipper named the Stigmata Skipper (for the bright red patches on the wing) and a lovely orange spider which apparently is a mimic of a velvet ant. There were, of course, birds too. Just above our spider and skipper spot we teased out a pair of uncharacteristically showy Gray-cheeked Nunlets which stayed in view for several minutes on open branches. This is a range restricted species found only in the Darien and adjacent Colombia. Across the road here we heard a calling Rufous-tailed Jacamar, and with a bit of looking soon found the bird perched low on a horizontal branch, glowing like an emerald and rust beacon in the shadowy understory. The driveway wasn’t done producing for us just yet though, as shortly afterwards we called in a group of Purple-throated Fruitcrows. This is a large and quite social species of Cotinga, jet-black except for the namesake (actually vinous coloured) throat of the males. Unlike most species in the family, they are quite vocal and active in the canopy, landing with quivering tails and a series of expressive quarks. Luckily for us the male landed at a good angle for us to really appreciate the intensity of the colour on the throat, which is actually vinous or claret toned rather than the more generic purple that its name would suggest. Near the end of the drive, we teased out a furtive Black-bellied Wren that stayed well covered in a tall tangle of vines, occasionally flashing its bright white throat from the shadows. We reached the small creek at the bottom of the hill and caught a ride back up to the camp, where we enjoyed some cold drinks and a bit of productive hawk watching. Kettles of migrating Turkey Vultures and milling Black Vultures came over the camp at regular intervals. Mixed in were a couple of huge King Vultures, a soaring (and very vocal) Black Hawk-Eagle, teetering Zone-tailed Hawk and a smattering of migrating Swainson’s Hawks bound for their wintering grounds in northern Argentina.  

We took lunch back at the camp, and then enjoyed a bit of a siesta. During this time off several people chose to take the short trial down past cabin 8 and were treated to views of King Vultures that were perched low in the trees behind the makeshift blind where the staff casts offal. A scrappy horde of Black Vultures were enjoying yesterdays offered bounty, and judging by the visibly bulging crops of the two adult Kings quite a bit of meat had already been consumed. The improbable colours of the adults, with their ornate rainbow-hued wattles, pale eyes, mostly white bodies and wings is a wonder to behold up close. The birds somehow teeter along the line between ugly and beautiful. Other participants spent their time photographing hummingbirds or taking a brief siesta.  

In the afternoon we reconvened, and after a bit more time sorting through the assembled hummingbirds headed to a nearby side road that leads north from the highway near the town of Quebrada Felix. This dirt road passes through cut-over forest, with patches of standing trees interspersed with small farms and open fields. It’s an interesting mix of habitats, and the more open sky can be good in the late afternoon for perched up larger birds and birds in flight. Just after turning onto the road we flushed a large flock of Ruddy Ground-Dove. One bird was markedly paler and larger, and luckily that bird perched up high in an adjacent tree, revealing itself to be a wonderful male Blue Ground-Dove. After crossing a small creek, we stopped at a small open field and were very happy to see a pair of responsive Barred Puffbirds (a hulking brown species with a baleful yellow eye and overall fierce-looking demeanor that is largely restricted to a small corner of Panama and Colombia). Over the next hill we spent quite some time slowly walking along a series of small weedy pastures, finding (with some patience) a perched Striped Cuckoo, instructive comparison views of Boat-billed and Rusty-margined Flycatchers alongside a Great Kiskadee and a little flock of Lesser Goldfinches. Out in the pastures we picked out distantly perched Amazon Kingfisher and Gray-lined Hawk and some Southern Lapwings that were parading around in the grasses amongst the cattle. The road ends at a large ricefield, that is ringed with forest and that backs up onto the Chuqunaque River. Although the rice field workers were busily getting ready for harvesting (with an array of massive equipment that was truly impressive) we were able to enter the beginning of the field and park. This allowed us to scan the area, picking up dozens of Red-breasted Meadowlarks sitting out in the rice. Several males were popping up and displaying, perhaps preparing for a breeding season (in the fields that were about to be razed). In one of the fringing trees, we were surprised to spot a large number of migrant Eastern Kingbirds that were apparently settling down for the evening. A couple of Fork-tailed Flycatchers were in the area as well, flying high overhead with their kite streamer tails flowing behind them. We capped the day off with views of a half-dozen Chestnut-fronted Macaws as they flew over the clearing with their low-pitched clipped calls. Macaws are quite scarce (or absent) over most of Panama, but here in the Darien there is still enough high-quality forest remaining for birds to find the larger cavities that they require. Of the four species of Macaws in the Darien it is the Chestnut-fronted (which is also the smallest species) that regularly comes out into the more cleared areas nearer to the highway. As the day came to a close, we headed back to the lodge for a break before dinner, preparing to head out on an epic expedition into the Darien National Park the next morning in search of Harpy Eagle. 

The next day of the trip was reserved for penetrating more deeply east into the Darien in search of Panama’s national bird; the regal, if not downright imposing, Harpy Eagle. With the arrival of a successful ecolodge in the Darien many local communities are now aware that by finding and protecting Eagle nests they can attract visitors from the camp, thus economically benefiting from conservation. This system has been working quite well, and for the last few years there have generally been multiple Harpy Eagle nests known to the camp guides that visiting birds are allowed access to. As the nesting period for a pair takes an amazing eighteen months these nests can stay viable for quite some time, bringing in much needed money to local communities. Our visit this year occurred about two weeks after an unfortunate storm knocked the chick out of the nest that had been publicly accessible. Often the camp staff erect netting under the nest to protect the chick in case of such an eventuality, but sadly this nest had escaped such treatment. There was another known nest site though, much further to the east and actually quite close to the ranger station in the Darien National Park. Given this years’ crop of participants willingness to undertake the journey we decided to go for it. This marked the first time that a WINGS tour actually reached the park proper, and given the rangers stations proximity to the foothills of Cerro Pirre we were hopeful that we might get to see a few of the true Darien specialties in addition to the Harpy. The journey from the camp to the ranger station is an epic one. First there’s the half-hour drive to Yaviza, then an hour-long boat trip down the Chuqunaque and up the Rio Tuira to the outpost town of El Real de Santamaria. Once there we just had to board a pickup truck for a half-hour ride to the trail junction and then hike about five kilometers in (on a muddy but flat trail) to the station. Then there was the need to ford a stream and hike another mile into the park to view the nest. Easy peasy! 

The van journey was as simple as it could be, and just after dawn we boarded our boat at the Yaviza dock and started the river voyage to El Real. As we were trying to get into the forest as early as feasible, we didn’t make very many birding stops on the way but a few species along the river edge did captivate us as we passed. Herons were plentiful, and among the flocks of Western Cattle-Egrets and Little Blues we admired a couple of Cocoi Herons, a largely South American species that closely resembles a Great Blue in size and shape but is clad in a crisper plumage of whites and blacks, and also a smattering of Yellow-crowned Night-Herons. Probably the most memorable sighting was of a perched adult Black-collared Hawk. This attractive wetland hawk is uncommon around the Darien, and its largely orange plumage with a markedly pale head make it quite a dramatic species.  

We landed at the small El Real boat ramp, and were met by a couple of high clearance vehicles that would bring us to the beginning of the forest. The road proved to be in remarkably good shape; gravel but only lightly potholed. The little town of El Real had a definite frontier feel, but also a surprising amount of infrastructure given its remote nature. As we rolled through town, we spotted a Cattle Tyrant that was striding around on one of the larger roofs. This open-country and largely terrestrial flycatcher is a recent colonizer to Panama, and a species that we infrequently detect on our tours. A small marsh along the road held an adult Capped Heron; a pretty medium-sized heron clad in tones of coffee creamer with a black crown and bicolored blue and pink bill. As we neared the forest the ridgeline of Cerro Pirre began to dominate our views. This proximity to the mountains was likely responsible for the presence of a large group of low-flying White-collared Swifts just over the road (our first write-in species for the trip of the day). Once at the trailhead we were met by members of the local Wounaan community and soon started walking the roughly five-kilometer-long trail through a forested community reserve and into the vast Darien National Park. The trail was muddy in patches, but happily flat, and we made good progress. Perhaps due to the windless conditions and high humidity though we found the forest to be notably quiet. Near the halfway point we stopped to have some cold drinks and snacks at a small camp near a rushing rocky creek. One of the porters had located a large forest scorpion while setting things up for us, and the animal stayed put quite calmly as we jockeyed around for good photographic opportunities. A small canopy flock here kept us entertained as well, with lots of Yellow-rumped Caciques clambering around the epiphyte laden upper limbs and a perched White-whiskered Puffbird that was sitting up much higher than is customary for this largely understory species. Here too was a little Wedge-billed Woodcreeper working on a lower trunk and some White-shouldered Tanagers and Blue Dacnis up in the treetops. The little creek was productive too, with an adult Fasciated Tiger-Heron (another write-in) that was stalking around in a section of shallow rapids in search of small fish. Another flock a little down the trail was a bit harder to experience as the trees here are often remarkably tall. Among the birds moving around the canopy, we picked out a singing Rusty-winged Antwren, perched Dusky-capped and Great Crested Flycatchers, a Black-bellied Wren and some White-eared Conebills.  

We reached the ramshackle ranger station of Rancho Frio just before midday, deciding to eat lunch and bird around the clearing before continuing on towards the eagle nest. Our meal, cooked chicken and rice with fresh-cut fruit and pineapple upside down cake slices was decadent given our location, and we were definitely grateful for the efforts of our community porters. While enjoying lunch a large flock came through the clearing, moving fairly quickly across the edge of the forest. Their quick motion made it hard for everyone to see all the available species, but most enjoyed views of a pair of Choco Elaenias and a pretty Purple-crowned Fairy that was hunting around the edges of the canopy, flashing its white undertail like a little beacon as it moved. A male Yellow-backed Tanager (an eastern Darien specialty in North America) was sadly less confiding, squeaking out before everyone could track it down.  

After lunch we forded the creek that runs along the edge of the clearing (easily accomplished for those with rubber boots, but a bit trickier for those in hiking shoes) and made our way down the roughly mile-long trail to the north and into the foothills of Cerro Pirre. After about twenty minutes we reached a position to view the large nest that was nestled in the crown of a Cuipo tree. These trees have a very tall and straight trunk that is generally higher than the surrounding forest canopy. Once the tree reaches its super-canopy height it sends out an array of branched trunks from a central spot on the main trunk, creating a large and flat platform well above the forest. This is the preferred nesting spot for large forest raptors including Harpy and Crested Eagles as it affords an excellent vantage point and significant isolation from the main forest canopy which is readily accessed by potential predators. Although we were up on a low forested hill the nest tree was still quite high above us, but our angle was good enough that we could clearly see the rim of the nest with a female Harpy sitting with her less than two-week old chick. We were able to watch her from a respectful distance, taking seemingly endless photos and videos and showing her off to the locals through our binoculars, phone cameras and telescopes. Few bird species in the world are as evocative as the Harpy. Standing over three feet tall, and weighing in at almost twenty pounds this huge raptor is often regarded as the largest bird of prey in the world. Their legs are thicker than a human wrist, with talons longer than the claws of an adult Grizzly Bear. Incredibly agile, these huge birds fly through the canopy like giant Accipiters, and are capable of grabbing and carrying prey as large as sloths and monkeys from their perches. Eastern Panama serves as the stronghold of the species within North America, and although Harpies do occur as far north as southern Mexico, they are experiencing a steep population decline throughout most of their central American range. Here in the Darien the locals are proud of them, as the species is the national symbol of the country, and many villages are actively protecting birds that they find nearby. We stayed with the nest for nearly an hour, and were amazingly lucky to see a prey delivery, with the male flying overhead and landing on the rim of the nest. The female immediately started mantling over the nest (either her prey item or young chick) and squabbled with the male for a few minutes before he flew off – this time looking every bit large enough to carry some of the local kids away. The female stayed on the nest for a bit and then hopped up onto a nearby branch, posing for us for another half-hour or so. Our experience with these birds was simply epic, as we managed to see both adults; in flight and perched, and interacting and watch the female gently offering food to her still too small to see over the lip of the nest chick. The birds, and the warm hospitality and excitement of the local people simply exceeded expectations in every way!  

Eventually we headed back towards Rancho Frio, but our progress was soon halted when we heard some deep raucous calls coming from up in the canopy. We shuffled around and were soon able to scope a pair of spectacular perched Red-and-Green Macaws. This is perhaps the most impressive of the four species of Macaws that occur in mainland Panama, and was a long-anticipated write-in for the trip as it generally occurs only inside the national park boundaries. Once back at the ranger station we were elated to see that the mixed flock was once again in the clearing, this time lingering in one of the tall central trees. We were less elated to see that it had started to rain, but by huddling under the eaves of the building we were able to bird in comfort. In addition to the previous species, we picked up a pair of very vocal White-ringed Flycatchers that were bouncing around the canopy. This species is oddly rare in Panama, with most sightings coming from inside the national park. Another specialty was in the flock too, with a single Slate-throated Gnatcatcher foraging slowly across the lower canopy. This is perhaps the most distinctive species of Gnatcatcher, with dark slaty upperparts and chest. Its limited range runs from eastern Panama to Northwest Ecuador, although it is generally uncommon across this distribution. We also enjoyed much better views of the pair of Yellow-backed Tanagers, which gave us an incredible three write in species for the tour list all in the same flock!

 We waited a bit in the hopes that the rain would taper off, but eventually just had to head back. Thankfully the rain wasn’t heavy (though given the distance we had to cover it did an excellent job at soaking us thoroughly) and the temperatures were warm. We didn’t stop much on the walk out, pausing to admire a coiled-up Rainforest Hog-nosed Viper in the leaf litter and another Red-and-Green Macaw perched up in the canopy. By the time we reached the road the rain had indeed ceased, allowing us to bird a bit on the way back to El Real. It proved a productive stretch of road, with our first Brown-hooded Parrots sitting over a ranch house and a White-necked Puffbird right over the road. A large clearing kept us captivated for nearly an hour. We initially stopped when we noticed some activity in the fruiting Cercropias along the road. That initial activity turned out to be just a few migrant warblers but once stopped we noticed a pair of Spot-crowned Barbets feeding quietly in the tops of the same trees. Here too was a perched Gray-capped Flycatcher and some sitting Pale-vented Pigeons. With the engines stopped we also could hear the calls of a few macaws just around the corner. We hastened over and were amazed to spot a flock of a half-dozen Great Green Macaws that were feeding in some tall fruiting teak trees. This large and critically endangered Macaw persists in only a few small populations from Nicaragua to Colombia, with another subspecies occurring in two small pockets of coastal Ecuador. Global estimates put the total population at only around 4000 birds, with 2500 of those in the Darien and adjacent Colombia. Very few birds have learned to forage in these plantations of teak, but perhaps these large Macaws will do well with the ever-increasing amount of teak in the area and little competition for the large and hard seeds. Our views of these huge birds were fantastic in the scopes, and we took our time soaking in their remarkably bright and varied coloration before the birds took off and rapidly vanished over the canopy. The rest of the return journey went by pretty quickly, and we made good time on the boat (assisted by a new and larger outboard engine) reaching Yaviza at dusk. Along the Chucunaque River we noted a couple of foraging Lesser Nighthawks, here on their wintering grounds, and also a few hunting Greater Bulldog Bats; an amazing species that specializes on catching fish using a modified fold of skin between their legs in a similar fashion to a pelican’s bill. We pulled back into camp around seven pm, after a delay at the base of the driveway where we had to shift into the pickup trucks to get across the not-so-little creek that had swollen due to heavy rains in the late afternoon. It was an epic day; one truly worthy of a crowning species like the iconic Harpy Eagle! 

The next day was a much more relaxed affair, with some time around the feeders and garden in the morning and then a short ride down the highway to visit the El Salto Road. This short road runs northeast from the highway to the banks of the Cuchunaque River, giving the local Embera people access to the road system. It is little traveled, and passes through a mix of older second growth forest, small clearings and a few teak plantations. We stopped at a random spot along the road where a nice mixture of native forest, scrub and teak made for a diverse looking flora and then spent much of the morning alternating between riding and walking towards the river. Almost as soon as we had exited the trucks, we made our first discovery, with a cinnamon morph Collared Forest-Falcon that actually deigned to stay perched; a rare decision from this often-retiring species. It was a hot and humid morning, making the forest edge less attractive to mixed flocks than usual, but we were persistent, tallying our first Black-tailed and Gartered Trogons and a nice assortment of woodpeckers including Lineated, Cinnamon and Golden-green. This species, with its bright olive body, crimson cap and bold yellow cheek stripe is quite an attractive bird, although its harsh screaming calls don’t seem to jive well with its elegant attire. The thick brush lining the road had recently been cleared by a very active group of machete wielding workers who are responsible for keeping the low powerline clear of vegetation. Nevertheless, there were birds in the understory, and with patience we teased out a single White-bellied Antbird and tangled with a generally reclusive pair of Bare-crowned Antbirds. Though the species is present across much of Panama they are generally quite difficult to see anywhere other than the Darien, although even here they prefer to stay back in the depths of undergrowth tangles. A bit past the roads midpoint a mixed flock came over the road, and among the more common species like Cinnamon and White-winged Becard and Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher we were thrilled to spot a responsive pair of Double-banded Greytails. This sighting proved to be the only one for the tour of this small furnarid that is restricted to a small corner of Colombia and adjacent Panama. Raptors put on a good showing throughout the morning, crossing over the open road at regular intervals or perching in the roadside trees. In addition to the aforementioned Collared Forest-Falcon we enjoyed excellent views of a sitting Hook-billed Kite, several Roadside, Grey-lined and Broad-winged Hawks and flyovers from Swainson’s Hawks, King Vultures and a circling and very vocal Black Hawk-Eagle. The road ends at a small boat ramp on the Chucunaque River and we spent some time scanning the treetops and clearing edge here before heading back towards the highway. Some distant calling Red-throated Caracaras unfortunately refused to come any closer (we detected this species aurally on three occasions but never managed to connect with one visually this year) but their cacophonous laughter was quite distinctive. We had more luck with interesting insect sightings here, with a Red Cracker that sat out well for photos and even flashed its rufous underwings for us on queue and perched Great and Pin-tailed Pondhawks and Carmine Skimmers. The road had one more treat in store for us on the way back, when Oscar pointed into a grove of more open trees and motioned us over for a look. It took a while for everyone to spot it, but up in the canopy was a snoozing Great Potoo, doing an excellent imitation of a broken off stump and matching the colours of the tree bark amazingly well.  

We headed back to the camp for lunch and some time off in the early afternoon to enjoy the birds coming into the feeders and garden. A few folks also revisited the vulture feeding area, again finding King Vultures feasting on the cast offs from the kitchen. In the mid-afternoon we departed again, this time down the Pan American Highway to near its terminus at Yaviza. The roads around the Darien have recently been vastly improved with modern bridges, good tarmac, and even pull-outs and shelters for buses. Despite these improvements (designed to bring more people out into the eastern reaches of the country) the last 15 miles or so of the highway past the camp is still lightly trafficked, and offers some excellent birding in small roadside wetlands, forest patches and pastures. We started off in a section of dense woods just before the town of Yaviza, dubbed rather unimaginatively the Yaviza Woods in eBird. Our arrival coincided with the start of a significant afternoon rainfall, so after a few minutes of waiting to see if it would abate we elected to head back northwards to check out a few small wetlands near the highway. The rains followed us, but remained light, permitting us to scan for a few open country and marsh birds. At one small wetland we found our first Wattled Jacanas, which in eastern Panama have an all-black back. Some Southern Lapwings showed off their multihued wings and loud calls when they came in to land practically at our feet, and in one of the small vegetated ditches we spotted a cryptic Striated Heron hiding in the grass. At another we were happy to spot an adult Rufescent Tiger-Heron standing in the shade, as well as a perched Giant Cowbird, a few Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks and a low-flying Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture that was close enough to discern its multicolored (not particularly yellow) head. Yet another small wetland contained a good sized stand of reeds, and here we were very happy to connect with a Black-capped Donacobius as it lurked in the grasses. This odd bird has been moved around between several different families but is now generally regarded as belonging to its own monotypic family. They seem to be a flashy hybrid between a thrasher and a wren, with more colour and moxie than either. Widespread in the lowlands of South America this species is very range-restricted in North America, occurring only in a few scattered wetlands near the end of the highway. We were also treated to a steady parade of Smooth-billed Ani, Blue-black Grassquits, Variable and Ruddy-breasted Seedeaters and Pale-vented Pigeons feeding on fruiting trees or seeding grasses. A final stop at a more expansive wetland revealed our hoped-for Pied Water-Tyrant, as well as a couple of wintering Prothonotary Warblers, a pair of Mealy Amazons and a wheeling flock of Short-tailed Swifts that were coursing along the weather front that had been following us back westwards. 

Our last full day around the Darien was spent largely on dugout canoes along the Chucunaque River, heading upstream into the large Embera Comarca. This is a vast region controlled by the Embera indigenous group, with very few roads and scattered small villages along the rivers. We left the camp early, heading down the road to the boat launch at La Penita. Our sturdy boats (remarkably long dugout canoes with low plastic chairs) are owned and organized by the villagers of Nuevo Vigia (our destination for the morning) who also maintain the trail network into the forest that we use for birding, and offer assorted handicrafts, and occasionally a short native dance performance for their visitors. As we waited to board our boats we noted a few species around the clearing, notably a small flock of passing Brown-hooded Parrots and perched Southern Rough-winged Swallows. We then boarded the boats and spent a couple of hours slowly birding upstream on the Chucunaque and Tuquesa Rivers. 

We found the river edge forest to be good for birds, with the undoubted highlight being the several perched up Blue Cotingas in the treetops. The males were an intense shining blue, even despite the somewhat foggy early morning conditions and the females were a more staid but still attractive study in grey polka-dots. Among the several raptor species encountered we especially appreciated views of sitting Grey-lined and Crane Hawks. Also sitting up in the early morning hours we found a few Grey-headed Chachalaca, a teed-up Long-tailed Tyrant and a few male Giant Cowbirds that lived up to their name by somewhat resembling raptors in silhouette. Along the riverbanks we found little groups of Greater Anis in the vegetated edges of the river, often sunning themselves and revealing their characteristic blue gloss. In turn we also admired raucous Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers, sunning Anhinga, Neotropic Cormorants and an array of herons including a beautiful butterscotch and cream coloured Capped Heron. At one point a flash of green went across the bow and we motored over to the other bank to investigate. We managed to track down a pair of American Pygmy-Kingfishers that were tucked well underneath a tangle of bare branches that jutted out over the water. Despite our boats being just a few meters away the birds felt secure in their chosen hideout, and we were able to study their emerald and copper plumage in great detail. As we motored on, we spotted dozens of Mangrove Swallows which joined the less colourful Southern Rough-winged and migrant Barn Swallows in coursing over the river; often perching on small emergent stalks and providing excellent views as we passed. Our first landing was at a small clearing upstream from the village of Nuevo Vigia where we were virtually immediately successful at locating our principal target; Dusky-backed Jacamar. This small and swarthy Jacamar has an extremely limited world range (like several other species in the Darien) and is quite poorly known. The clearing also proved excellent for some skulky species that we had (to date) only heard. We found a perfect spot where we could see deep int the shade, and in quick succession managed to spot a pair of Buff-breasted Wrens and a couple of very vocal and responsive White-bellied Antbirds. We then reboarded our craft for the short ride downstream to the village of Nuevo Vigia.

During our trip we were treated to a first-hand experience with the humanitarian crisis that has been steadily growing in this part of Panama, and indeed all around the world. Panama has, for well over a decade, been on the receiving end of a trail of immigrants from Haiti, Venezuela and as far away as Africa and Southeast Asia. Generally, people book passage to Brazil or another South American country that does not require a visa then travel overland to Colombia before buying passage on small boats to Panama’s northern Darien coast. They then have to cross the Tarcarcuna mountains and navigate passage on small boats to ports with road access to the Pan American highway. Conditions for these people are harsh, and few arrive here with a lot of resources still in their possession. International aid groups have now established some shelters and tents, as well as basic medical care and help with food and sanitation in camps along the river. The Panamanian border police are here too, monitoring the area and organizing the refugees until they are transported away (some are sent home and others book trips on to the Costa Rica border in quite modern looking coaches). It’s an interesting scene to witness, and although the refugees are certainly in dire straits most seemed in good spirits and health generally, waving a cheery hello as our boats crossed paths. Over the last few years, we have encountered one or two boats with refugees, but this year we counted almost a dozen, a testament to the large increase in numbers since the pandemic. Apparently on some days 60 or more boats come down the Tuquesa River a day, with roughly a dozen people on each boat. It's a complex and pressing issue with no easy solutions, and one whose ramifications are being disproportionally felt by the Embera people who live along these rivers. 

We arrived in the village of Nuevo Vigia to find a hive of activity, with virtually all the men in the village out busily trimming the grass and tidying the roadsides. It seemed that the village chief had decided to take advantage of the national holiday (recognizing Panama’s secession from Spain) by requesting a general cleanup of town. After some sandwiches, a bathroom (which a local thoughtfully cleaned out just for our use), and cold drinks we set off into the woods on a level but muddy trail that winds out to two small and well-vegetated oxbow lakes. The forest behind the village is short, with a fairly open understory and a significant amount of vines in the midstory. It’s an environment that lends itself to easy birding, with small mixed flocks often foraging along the trail, and larger birds often visible in the distant trees. The trail initially passes through some small plantations of coffee and bananas growing in the forest understory before reaching the first small oxbow. Some work on the dry-season road that connects the town to the highway had resulted in an easier crossing into the woods, with a culvert and graveled road now in place rather than the small swamp that we used to have to navigate. Once in the shade and comparative cool of the woods we soon started picking up birds. The first little flock contained a responsive pair of Dusky Antbirds, with the orange-breasted female being particularly confiding as she clambered up into the vines above the trail. A little further in we stopped to admire a little Southern Bentbill (an understory flycatcher with an oddly proportioned bill) and were soon surrounded by a large but dispersed feeding flock. In the understory we teased out a male Black Antshrike and a lovely male Spotted Antbird, which is surely one of the most attractive members of the family. Up around the short canopy we were happy to finally get close views of a pair of foraging Northern Plain Xenops, as well as a wandering Black-tailed Flycatcher that (thankfully) came back after its first appearance.

Eventually we reached the small oxbow lake that is tucked into the forest with lots of emergent trees and bordering bushes which provided myriad perches for kingfishers and other fish-eating birds. We slowly walked along the edge of the water, finding a few Rusty-margined Flycatchers and Lesser Kiskadees hunting over the water before a flash of emerald caught our eye along the bank. It took a bit of time to find a good vantage point, but when we did, we enjoyed excellent views of a Green-and-Rufous Kingfisher (a flashy mid-sized kingfisher that is generally regarded as the most difficult species of new world Kingfisher to see) sitting low over the water. We were also happy to find a perched Boat-billed Heron dozing high above the water, looking a bit like a grumpy garden gnome peering down from its leafy bower. The lake also held a couple of interesting reptiles, with several small Common Basilisk Lizards sitting around the margin of the water, and even occasionally running across to the safety of some distant thicket and, at the far end of the oxbow we found a few loafing Spectacled Caiman doing excellent impressions of floating logs, which quickly curtailed any thought of us going for a quick swim. Also, at this far end of the lake we again encountered a nice mixed flock. This time it was largely mid-canopy birds, with a pair of Cinnamon Woodpeckers and a pair of Red-rumped Woodpeckers, a single foraging Streaked Xenops (a species that is quite scarce in North America), and a Royal Flycatcher that somehow managed to drift out of view before everyone got onto it. 

The walk back was quite productive as well, with a little Stripe-throated Hermit showing well in a heliconia thicket, another Streaked Xenops, a pair of incredibly tiny Olivaceous Piculets, a Brown-capped Tyrannulet and a female Golden-winged Warbler. As we exited the forest the full force of the midday sun hit like a furnace, so we hastened to the village, stopping only to admire a Grey Kingbird that was sitting up on the roadside wires. Our return to town proved much quieter than our first visit, with most of the clean-up crew likely enjoying a bit of a siesta. The peace and quiet was conducive to an excellent lunch in the shade, and a few participants even managed a bit of Christmas shopping for local handwoven handicrafts. As we boarded the boats we could hear the scratchy calls of some Spectacled Parrotlets from actoss the river, and amazingly, the birds responded to some playback, landing just in front of us and lingering for extended views. It’s a really cute species of parrot, bright green and with (on the male) blue marks around the eyes that is yet another Darien specialty. Given the heat we elected to head right back to La Penita, leaving some time in the afternoon for some birding back down on the Pan-American highway in the comfort of our air-conditioned bus. 

Our return visit to the Yaviza forest and wetlands was much more productive than our first (rainy) visit. Around the forest we enjoyed a little mixed flock that contained our only Black-crowned Tityras of the tour and a good mix of migrants including some confiding Prothonotary and Yellow Warblers and a male Baltimore Oriole. Nearby we spotted a male White-tailed Trogon perched right over the road, showing off its purplish-blue back and orange-tinged yellow belly in the scopes. The wetlands gave us an impressive number of Yellow-headed Caracaras, our first Shiny Cowbirds and a photogenic Ruddy-breasted Seedeaters and Fork-tailed Flycatchers. The remainder of the afternoon went by about as well as could be hoped, with excellent views of both White-headed and Bicoloured Wrens. Both species are in the genus Campylorhynchus (the same genus as Cactus Wren). They are large and flashy arboreal birds which can, at times, seemingly vanish in the denser branches of trees, and at other times dominate the aural landscape around them. The White-headed is a very range restricted species; found (in declining numbers) in eastern Panama and adjacent Colombia. The Bicoloured is a new arrival into Panama, coming over from Colombia in response to the advancing clearing of the lowland forests for cattle ranching and farming. We managed to spot the White-headeds on our first try, finding a pair that was constructing a new nest in a low epiphyte-laded tree. The Bicoloureds took a couple of attempts, perhaps due to the national holiday festivities at the adjacent park (with a tall greased pole that teams of youth were attempting to scale in order to grab the prize that had been placed on the top). As we drove back to the Camp we were startled to see a group of four Blue-and-Yellow Macaws slowly crossing the road in front of us. These large parrots are only rarely encountered around the road system in the Darien, and with the sighting we actually completed the sweep of all four possible Macaws; a feat that we may well never repeat! The camp staff made us a wonderful turkey dinner for our final evening in honour of American Thanksgiving, with a huge turkey, peach cobbler and some artfully arranged fruit towers that would put most family hosts to shame.

We left the camp on the last day a little after breakfast, making the two-hour drive back west to an isolated mountain range that has been protected by an expat American preacher which is known in birding circles as the San Francisco Reserve. On the way we made a quick stop at a private house known to the camp guides. Here we were wildly successful at viewing an improbable three Great Currasows that were foraging in the backyard, eating scraps and rice that the homeowner throws out for her chickens. The property abuts a large patch of forest, and apparently off and on for the last decade a few Currasows come in (particularly in the wet season) to feed early in the morning. Sometimes years go by with no birds, but during the wet season of 2024 she has been hosting up to seven individuals! As the birds have been coming in daily they have slowly become accustomed to people, and we were able to watch them at an incredibly close range. Curassows are huge birds, with long tails and charismatically curled crests. The males are velvety black, with a white vent and yellow cere, and the females a rich rust color, with a banded tail and stunning white and black banded crest. Normally the species is wary, and rare, but in this situation, it was almost like watching a homeowner showing off her very oversized and trumped-up chickens. In addition to the Curassows, we were happy to see a family group of four Gray-cowled Wood-Rails which came out of the shrubbery and into the open vying for their own ration of rice. After taking a prodigious number of photos and thanking our gracious hostess we continued on to the San Francisco Reserve. This protected area encompasses nearly the entire mountain range and was designed to protect the watershed for the nearby town of Torti. The original priest apparently passed away a few years ago, and unfortunately, the new guy seems to have more of a penchant for development with a lot of the hedgerow trees in the fields being recently cut down. Thankfully the forest itself seems to have escaped his attention, although some of the northern edges of the foothills show signs of recent clearing. 

After checking in with the landowners we parked at the beginning of the woods, and then spent a bit of time along the forest edge, where in the recently trimmed lawns we found foraging Lesser Kiskadees and Rusty-margined Flycatchers, and along the edge of the woods we spotted a perched Tropical Pewee. Bird activity picked up as we neared the forest edge, with a Pale-bellied Hermit feeding in some flowering heliconias, and a little family group of Bay Wrens that played hide and seek with us for a while near the edge of the road before finally settling down and giving good views. We then walked up the short road that leads to a clearing above the creek. We found the area quiet, save a perched Gray-lined Hawk in the understory. The walk back down to the van though took quite some time, as we were greeted by a large mixed flock foraging around in the canopy. The chief prize was undoubtedly the Yellow-green Tyrannulet that remained out in the open for quite some time (rather than quickly vanishing into the canopy). This rather unremarkable looking flycatcher is endemic to Panama, occurring from the Canal zone to roughly the base of the Darien highlands. They are generally found in the company of mixed species flocks, and tend to stay high up in the canopy, providing only partial views as they forage among the leaves. This bird was far more cooperative, remaining still for well over a minute and providing us ample opportunity to soak in its overall lack of useful fieldmarks. The flock also held our first handsome Fasciated Antshrike, a somewhat cooperative Rusty-winged Antwren, both Northern Plain and Streaked Xenops, and likely our best Lesser Greenlets of the trip. Eventually we reached the van, and after a cold drink and some reorganization of footgear we crossed the creek so that we could access the longer (and steeper) trail that climbs up parallelling the creekline. This trail is often good, and this year proved no exception. We found two more mixed flocks along the walk, with some of the highlight species including Tawny-crowned Greenlet, a postcard-perfect male Spotted Antbird, repeated views of Black-crowned Antshrike and all three of the three amigos (White-flanked, Checker-throated and Dot-winged Antwrens). From our elevated vantage point, we were able to track down a pair of beautiful Buff-rumped Warblers as they zipped around on the streamside rocks, swishing their tails and butterscotch rumps off to great effect. The trail was also good for large perched birds, with our first Black-throated Trogons, a pair of Slaty-tailed Trogons, a group of Purple-throated Fruitcrows, and, as we returned to the trailhead a dazzling Great Jacamar that was hunting butterflies over the creek. Before leaving we were also treated to a small flock of Dusky-faced Tanagers and a male Blue-black Grosbeak feeding along the edge of the road. We left the reserve just as the building clouds began to take over, taking lunch back at our little café in Torti, where we spent a bit of time watching the patio hummingbird and fruit feeders. Although we didn’t spot any species that were new for the trip it was nice to see species like Black-throated Mango, Snowy-bellied Hummingbird and Scaly-breasted Hummingbirds at such close range. The fruit feeders were hosting a busy too, with a mix of tanagers including lots of Blue-gray, Plain-colored and Palm, chattering groups of Orange-chinned Parakeets, and a portly Red-tailed Squirrel, which made a most pleasing background to lunch. 

Since the highway out to the Darien was not in good shape this year, especially the section between Torti and Lake Bayano we departed Torti fairly quickly after lunch, trying to leave some time for birding as we headed west towards our Panama City hotel. As we headed westwards the skies closed in behind us, but we managed to keep ahead of the rain. A short stop back at the Rio Mono Bridge produced lengthy looks at a pair of Barred Antshrikes as they foraged near the ground on a slope above the road. It’s hard to pick a favorite plumage for this widespread species, with the cinnamon-coloured female sporting a zebra-striped head, and the male a crazy striped creature with a tall bushy crest and bright yellow eye. Across the highway we found a flowering tree which was hosting an immature male Red-legged Honeycreeper (oddly our first for the trip this year) as well as a couple of Bay-breasted Warblers and a female Violet-bellied Hummingbird. 

Our final stop for the trip was back at the Lake Bayano Bridge. The area was quite birdy, and in about a half-hour of time we picked up four new species for the trip. By scanning the lakeshore from the road, we were surprised to spot a Limpkin foraging on the shore of a grassy island. This species seems to be rapidly colonizing Panama, likely aided by the introduction of apple snails to the canal zone. In another section of the shoreline, we found two adult Purple Gallinules striding about like they owned the place. We walked down to the lake and found a horde of birds deep in the brush, seemingly fussing at some unseen hazard. Among the flock were a group of Isthmian Wrens, a recent split from the old Plain Wren and a pair of Common Tody-Flycatchers. Up in the Cercropias above us we were treated to views of a busy group of White-eared Conebills, and down along the lakeshore found a vocal Northern Waterthrush and our first Panama Flycatcher, which proved to be the final addition to this years’ triplist. 

We reached our Panama City hotel in good time, with only minor traffic delays, and after some time off were sitting down at dinner, drinks in hand and reminiscing about the tour highlights (with Harpy Eagle, Great Green Macaw, a sweep of the possible Trogons (5) and Jacamars (3), Green-and-Rufous Kingfisher, Great Curassow and Blue Cotinga all getting mentions) over dinner. I want to thank this year’s wonderful crop of participants and our local leader Oscar Fria for making this fun tour to lead. I look forward to many more trips to the dynamic and rich Darien in the coming years!

-Gavin Bieber

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