Lesser Antilles

Day 1: Our epic birding adventure through the enchanting islands of the Lesser Antilles begins on the popular tourist destination of Antigua. A stunning gem in the region’s crown, the island of Antigua is a land of crystal-clear bays and coves, and its residents boast of being able to go to a different beach every day of the year and still not be able to visit them all! 

On arrival, you’ll be collected by prearranged transport and taken to our first three night’s accommodation, a delightful country inn just outside of the capital city of St. John’s. After checking-in, you may have time to roam the property’s spacious tropical gardens, perhaps picking up a selection of Caribbean birds, including Antillean Crested Hummingbird, one of four species of hummer we’ll target on this trip, Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, and the local subspecies of Caribbean Elaenia. Alternatively you may wish to take a dip in the pool and enjoy a cocktail in the large open air lounge before we come together for a welcome briefing and a delicious West Indian dinner, the first of many on our trip! Night on Antigua. 

Day 2: We’ll head to Antigua’s nearby main port, packed breakfast in hand, for a day trip to the smaller sister of this twin-island state: Barbuda. We’ll board our vessel and soon be jetting across some of the most beautiful waters in the Caribbean Sea. 

Arriving on Barbuda, one can immediately see the stark contrast between the heavily developed and well-established tourist destination of Antigua and this little-visited island, where vast stretches of undisturbed beaches, sheltered coves, and dry coastal forests support a very different cast of characters to those we’ll encounter during the rest of our trip. 

Our main target will be the diminutive Barbuda Warbler. This charmer is perfectly at home in the dry scrublands of one of the Lesser Antilles’ driest islands and shares the habitat with species such as Common Ground, Eared, and White-winged Doves and Black-faced Grassquit as well as Lesser Antillean Iguanas and, bizarrely, herds of feral donkeys. 

Barbuda is also home to the largest Magnificent Frigatebird colony in the Caribbean. These giants are most commonly seen soaring high above the ocean, carefully scanning the waters for food floating on or close to the surface. It is a wonderful treat to board a dinghy which takes us across a shallow lagoon teeming with marine life, as evidenced by the hundreds of jellyfish of every shape and size floating beneath us and clearly visible from our boat. We’ll spend time in the presence of these incredible birds, observing their behavior and watching as squadrons of adults manipulate their impressive six-to-seven-foot wingspan to return to their perches with food for their young. 

Driving around the island, one cannot help but be struck by the spectacular and unspoiled natural beauty of Barbuda. The water is a glistening turquoise blue, and the colors of the sands effortlessly blend between brilliant whites and varying shades of pink. With some of the most untouched beaches in the Caribbean literally on either side of us, what better way to spend the rest of the day than to head to a charming “Robinson Crusoe-esque” beach bar to enjoy a freshly-prepared meal of mahi mahi, chicken, (or lobster if you’re feeling indulgent), followed by a relaxing swim or snorkel in shallow waters and a stroll along an idyllic white-sand beach known to be frequented by Royal and Least Terns. This truly is a case of “Birding in Paradise”!  

On our return leg across the seas to Antigua, we may encounter dolphin or a whale. Night on Antigua. 

Day 3: We’ll hop aboard our transport for a short jaunt to a nearby saltwater pond for leisurely birding, focusing on waders, waterfowl, and herons. There is even a chance of an encounter with small flocks of West-Indian Whistling-Duck. We’ll return to our inn for a leisurely breakfast, with a view of White-crowned Pigeons feeding in the crowns of swaying palm trees, before taking a 30-minute flight to Dominica.  

With its innumerable waterfalls and a river for every day of the year coursing through her vast tracts of primary rainforest, Dominica is affectionately known as “the Nature Island of the Caribbean.” It offers a snapshot of what many of the more developed islands of the region would have resembled in years gone by. Additionally, it is one of only two countries (much larger Jamaica being the other) in the Caribbean that is home to two endemic Amazona parrot species: the Imperial and the Red-necked. 

Upon arrival, we’ll be collected and taken to our family-run hotel perched atop a sea cliff overlooking the rugged black sand beaches of Salisbury Bay. We’ll take a light lunch at the hotel’s cliff-top restaurant before setting out in the afternoon into the Northern Forest Reserve’s Syndicate Nature Trail. 

We likely won’t travel far before the calls of wondrous Lesser Antillean species give us cause to pull off the dirt track to investigate. Species possible during a veritable barrage of sightings and soundings of near-endemics and birds indigenous to the region include Lesser Antillean Pewee and Zenaida Dove, the dazzling Purple-throated Carib, pairs of the delicate Plumbeous Warbler dancing delightfully amongst the creeping vines dangling tantalizingly close to our heads, the deeply rufous endemic Kalinago Wren, and the always inquisitive Lesser Antillean Saltator.  

As our van climbs ever higher along the track, we'll scan the roadside for the albiventris subspecies of the Eastern Red-legged Thrush. We’ll also see two members of the Mimid family; the largely common Tropical Mockingbird (subspecies antillarum) and the less often seen Scaly-breasted Thrasher.

On arrival back at our clifftop accommodation we’ll have a fabulous view of the setting sun and a well-earned cocktail before tucking into a Creole-inspired dinner. Night on Dominica. 

Day 4: We’ll wake to the aroma of rich Dominican coffee as we set off before dawn with a packed breakfast to give ourselves the best opportunity to see one of the rarest species not only in the region, but on the entire planet, the majestic Imperial Amazon. Deep in the cloud forest, overlooking richly forested valleys with the distant sound of thunderous rivers coursing far below us, we’ll scan the towering emergent trees for the undisputed avian monarch of this land. Its more gregarious cousin, the Red-necked Parrot, should provide far more frequent entertainment, as small flocks awaken to flutter from one fruiting tree to another. Meanwhile, the trapline habits of the near-endemic Blue-headed Hummingbird will ensure that we regularly turn our attention to small groves of Costus spictatus and flowering bromeliads. 

Fifty-five species of butterfly, including regional endemics such as Dominican and Godman’s Hairstreaks, Godman’s Leaf, and St. Lucia Mestra, have been recorded on Dominica. These, along with the more wide-ranging Caribbean Buckeye and Cassius Blue, will ensure that we won’t ignore sunlit areas of forest floor during our time in the forest. We’ll spend as much time as needed awaiting the odd creaky metallic call of the mighty Imperial, one of the most reliable means of honing in on its position. 

On our drive back along the coast, we’ll stop at a small village Church, where we have a very good chance of seeing the local subspecies of Ashy-faced Owl, almost certain to be elevated to full species status in the near future. Dinner will be at our hotel. Night on Dominica. 

Day 5: We’ll follow our time on Dominica with a visit to the French Overseas Territory of Guadeloupe. The Basse-Terre island of Guadeloupe is remarkable, for its forests provide glimpses of some of the more secretive species rarely seen on other islands, such as Bridled Quail Dove which sometimes walks at our feet , and the Forest Thrush, elsewhere often very elusive but here in the Parc national du Guadeloupe, a bird of roadside verges and picnic tables. In addition, the movements of the Guadeloupe Woodpecker are somewhat unconventional, with birds often seen dangling upside down directly overhead while clinging to slender swinging branches and plucking ants from clusters of berries. Odd? Yes. But they certainly provide a fabulous show! Other species that frequent these lush forests are Brown Trembler, often seen displaying by lifting their wings, cocking their heads and tail, and trembling, and the dapper near-endemic Plumbeous Warbler. 

Following a picnic-lunch of charcuterie, fromage and pâté, accompanied by freshly-baked crusty French baguettes and washed down with a local Ti’Punch, Guadeloupe’s take on a Caipirinha, we’ll make our way back to the hotel. Here, you can relax around the pool for the remainder of the afternoon, or take a 15-minute walk to the white-sand beach for a dip in the refreshing turquoise waters before dinner. Night on Guadeloupe.

Day 6: Montserrat is widely known as the Second Emerald Isle, and one can circumnavigate it on foot and never leave the lush expanse of dense primary forest that dominates this largely unspoiled island. A volcanic eruption in 1995 rendered half of the island uninhabitable, covered it in magma, and caused a significant proportion of the population to emigrate…but what remains is simply stunning. The volcano itself still smolders and is constantly monitored by volcanologists who have declared the sparsely populated portion of the island safe for residents and visitors alike. This is also the half of the island where we’ll find our target bird species. The striking Montserrat Oriole will be our number one goal, and we’ll walk the paths of this ancient forest, dominated by huge emergents and long swinging lianas, until we come to reliable stands of giant heliconias, our best site for seeing orioles. We’ll be on the island during nesting season, so it is highly likely that such stands will reveal both the olive-green female and the fiery-breasted male.              

Montserrat is also the best island for Pearly-eyed Thrasher, which can prove difficult to find on other islands. However, on Montserrat it can be approached relatively closely both within and on the outskirts of the forest. Another target and one which will require far more patience as it’s secretive here is the Forest Thrush of the  endemic subspecies dorotheae. 

We’ll continue our walk through this picturesque habitat, where it will become clear that the forest floor can be just as alive as the trees above. Leaves rustle everywhere; Montserrat’s Anolis lizard scuttles across the ground and clambers up tree trunks, and unbelievably tiny Dwarf Geckos no bigger than the tip of your thumb study us with big googly eyes as they peek out from beneath the fallen leaves on the path before us. 

Back at our local lunch spot, we’ll sit back, relax, and celebrate the day’s birding with a hearty meal and wash it down with a local specialty—Bush Rum! No sugar cane is used in this one—only select local herbs and plants gathered from the forest. Night on Montserrat. 

Day 7: We’ll fly to St. Vincent with its black-sand beaches and vast sprawling wilderness. At the recently built international airport, we’ll be collected by our transport and head into the lush primary rainforests. These forests contain the best sites to see the critically endangered Whistling Warbler, one of four single-island endemic species of warbler, along with a wonderful selection of near-endemics and regional specialties such as Grenada Flycatcher, Lesser Antilles Thrush, the stunning Green-throated Carib, and all-black Bananaquit, one of five distinct subspecies of Bananaquit found in the region. We’ll end our walk at a dry riverbed above which circle Common Black and Broad-winged Hawks, the latter of the subspecies antillarum, a near endemic known only to St. Vincent and Grenada. Periodically, we may have to lower our eyes from the skies to guard our snacks of freshly picked fruit and plantain chips from inquisitive sapphire-headed St. Vincent Anoles!

After our day in the forest, we’ll drive to a local family-owned hotel on the southwestern and only white-sand shoreline of St. Vincent. We’ll dine overlooking the swaying masts of catamarans and yachts moored off Young Island. Night on St. Vincent. 

Day 8: This morning, we’ll have the privilege of being one of the few groups of people on the planet to observe large numbers of St. Vincent Parrots filling the skies above us. We’ll leave our hotel at 4:00 a.m. with a packed breakfast  and drive to a ‘secret spot’ that requires our vehicle to cross the same river seven times at different locations before ascending into the realm of the mighty Amazona guildingii. We’ll strategically select our spots atop a high ridgeline and from there wait for the raucous parrots to emerge from their roosts in the forests around us. 

The St. Vincent Parrot is a species that was long on the verge of extinction and is still listed on the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Red List of the most-threatened species on the planet. The opportunity to have incredibly close views of this number of wild birds in their natural habitat will for many be one of the highlights of the trip.

After our wonderful dawn encounter with the parrots, we’ll descend the mountain, pulling over at select sites where the ever-present mangoes and guavas prove an irresistible lure to the soon to be split Lesser Antillean (St. Vincent) Tanager, Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, Spectacled Thrush, Smooth-billed Ani, and even Yellow-bellied Elaenia, feasting on fruit flies drawn to the ripening fruit.

After the early start, our birding is mostly over for the day by mid-morning, so we’ll return to our hotel for a swim in the pool, or stroll along the spectacular beaches that line this coast. We’ll have lunch at the beachside restaurant and gaze out across the turquoise waters at Brown Pelican, Royal Tern, and Brown Noddy before making the short drive to the airport. 

Following a mid-afternoon flight, we’ll touch down in spectacular St. Lucia, where upon arrival, we'll be collected by our transport and taken to our locally-run hotel. The meals here are excellent and we’ll be treated to a sumptuous dinner before retiring to our rooms for the night. Night on St. Lucia. 

Day 9: After an early breakfast, we’ll head out to see one of the last thriving populations of the threatened St. Lucia Thrasher, and other inhabitants of the dry Atlantic forest in which it resides, such as the near-endemic subspecies of Lesser Antillean Saltator and the curious Mangrove Cuckoo. 

We’ll continue into the mountainous interior and island’s showpiece natural attraction: the sprawling Des Cartiers Rainforest. Des Cartiers is dominated by numerous trees endemic to the region including the majestic and aromatic Lansan along with gargantuan tree ferns, tiny bromeliads, and orchids. We’ll spend the rest of the morning here, walking the well-maintained, but in parts uneven, trails and identifying the wondrous diversity of flora all around us. Our forest walk culminates at an observation area, where we’ll be afforded excellent views of the island’s national bird and most colorful of all Amazonas: the magnificent St. Lucia Parrot. At this site, we'll also be in the presence of a number of other deep-forest dwellers. With luck, the ethereal song of the Rufous-throated Solitaire and the high-pitched note of the Lesser Antillean Euphonia will reveal their location, and will be intermingled with appearances by Grey Trembler and Lesser Antillean Flycatcher. 

From the forest, we’ll make for the small coastal village of Micoud, where we’ll have a late lunch at a local spot. We’ll then head back to our hotel to spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing on our balconies before gathering for dinner. Night on St. Lucia. 

Day 10: Following breakfast at our hotel, we’ll travel to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Soufrière, pausing at a reliable site for Black, Short-tailed and Lesser Antillean Swifts. Once in Soufrière, isolated groves of drought-tolerant trees line the small secondary roads of this coastal habitat, and we'll target the endemic St.Lucia Black Finch, and one of four single-island endemic wrens found in the region; on St.Lucia it is Troglodytes mesoleucus. 

We’ll then continue on to a unique ecotone, known to harbor many of the island’s indigenous and endemic species. It is no exaggeration to state that here numerous target species of birds will join the myriad Gulf Fritillaries, Cloudless Sulphurs, and Great Southern Whites flitting all around us. Overhead, we may see Lesser Antillean Swifts effortlessly manipulating the air currents; amongst the trees, colorful St. Lucia Warblers peering underneath leaves in search of caterpillars; overhanging tree limbs representing perfect vantage points for St. Lucia Pewees to launch attacks on winged insects; and an abundance of fruits ripening in the tropical sun that prove an irresistible lure for opportunistic St. Lucia Orioles. Night on St. Lucia. 

Day 11: With our packed breakfast in hand, we’ll journey today by boat to the stunning and heavily forested French Overseas Territory of Martinique. By this stage in our travels along the island chain, any prior belief that a visit to one Lesser Antillean island is akin to visiting another is likely to have vanished. The stark differences in topography, culture, industry and development along with the varied socio-economic differences in populations ensure that a visit to the islands of the Lesser Antilles is very much an exploration of 10 very individual and unique islands.

The small bistros and cafes that line the main courtyard of the thriving capital city of Fort-de-France and the feverish games of boules played on well-manicured pitches are unlike anything we will have seen on previous islands and are testimony to the island’s French influence.

Martinique is the oldest of the islands in the Lesser Antilles, and it makes sense that it is here that we’ll encounter the nominate forms of three of those species that have filtered out to other islands over millennia - the Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, Gray Trembler and Rufous-throated Solitaire. But the island also boasts two single-island endemics - the stunning Martinique Oriole and the endangered White-breasted Thrasher. While in some truly spectacular primary forest, we’ll also be looking for Black-whiskered Vireo and Blue-headed Hummingbird, in case this delightful near-endemic hummer has proven elusive in Dominica, as well as targeting the striking Rufous-hooded “Mangrove Warbler” and Ruddy Quail Dove. Night on Martinique. 

Day 12: We fly to Grenada, the southernmost island visited on the trip. From the air, the densely populated coastlines of this tiny island might seem an unlikely destination on a birding trip. However, by virtue of our visiting one of the last remaining vestiges of suitable habitat along the southern coastline of the island, we’ll be provided with the opportunity to see the rarest species of the entire tour: the Grenada Dove.

Latest counts estimate the surviving number of Grenada Doves to be as low as 130 individual birds. However, by drawing on experience and knowledge amassed over numerous previous trips, we should be treated to a sight few people have experienced. After visiting the last stronghold of this delicate, unassuming dove, we’ll explore the dry woodland that represents its natural habitat. Here, we’ll also be treated to views of the “Spice Isle’s” other inhabitants, including the Rufous-breasted Hermit, an endemic subspecies of Green-throated Carib (chlorolaemus), the last of the four endemic Lesser Antillean Wrens, and the soon-to-be-split Lesser Antillean (Grenada) Tanager. 

We’ll finish the day by climbing a well-positioned observation tower to scan the skies for the local race of Hook-billed Kite, before returning to our vibrantly-colored and newly refurbished resort for dinner. Night in Morne Rouge, Grenada. 

Day 13: At midday we’ll make our flight to Barbados. This tiny island of breathtakingly beautiful beaches surrounded by turquoise seas also shelters a few areas of prime birding habitat. Here, we’ll visit one of the most productive wetlands on the island, where we hope to see many of the island’s unique species and subspecies, including nominate “Golden” Warbler, a subspecies of Carib Grackle, the endemic subspecies of Caribbean Elaenia, and of course the Barbados Bullfinch. Long dangling aerial roots of Rhizophora mangle in the thickets at the water’s edge provide shelter for skulking Green Heron and Barbados Anole along with armies of fiddler crab. While in the wetland, we’ll also have excellent opportunities for views of Grey Kingbird, as well as up-close encounters with Antillean Crested Humingbird. This is also prime habitat for troops of Vervet monkeys (“Barbados Green Monkey”). 

At dusk, the West Indian mahogany trees that surround our hotel are filled with the calls of Scaly-naped Pigeons selecting their favored roosts, the fluttering wings of Velvety Free-tailed bats, and the regional endemic Myotis nyctor setting out to feed. Food is also on our minds, and we’ll step down from our hotel onto the gleaming white sands that line the southern coastline of the island for a sunset stroll along the beach to the small fishing village of Oistins, where we’ll tuck into a delicious dinner of freshly caught grilled fish, shrimp, and lobster. Night on Barbados. 

Day 14: After a buffet breakfast featuring Bajan specialties such as pumpkin fritters, fish cakes, bakes and fried plantain, all taken on the hotel balcony overlooking the sparkling waters of the Caribbean Sea, our tour ends with transfer to airport and late afternoon flights home.

2025 Narrative

TOUR REPORT

Day 1 - After arriving at our hotel near one of the most beautiful beaches on the southern coastline of Grenada, many of us took the opportunity to go for a swim in the pool and / or ocean before attending our welcome briefing; after which we tucked into a hearty buffet dinner of locally spiced (appropriate as after all we are on the Spice Isle) and prepared fish, chicken, rice and vegetables, and washed it all down with a refreshing ice cold Grenadian lemonade. By this time, some of us had already begun clocking some endemics such as Antillean Crested Hummingbird, as well as the first single island endemic around the hotel grounds, Grenada Wren. ­ 

Day 2 - After a dawn start, we arrived at a quiet Mt. Hartman Estate, where our number one target was the critically endangered Grenada Dove.  Possibly as few as 30 now remain in this dry forest habitat, the last stronghold of this placid Dove. Almost immediately upon exit on the vehicle we were greeted by the mournful notes of two individuals calling in the distance. Speaking in hushed tones, we hatched our plan to try to find this shy bird. Cautiously entering the (very green) dry forest we walked silently along the trail, quickly picking up an excellent view of a Spectacled Thrush. After a short distance, a Grenada Dove (left) called loudly from very close by! Our local guide managed to locate the bird perched a few feet above eye level through the vegetation, and we all got spectacular views as it preened. We even had to wait for some time while it tucked its head away and closed its eyes. Once its head popped up, we lined up behind the scope and enjoyed the moment. What a privilege to have enjoyed such a close encounter with a bird precariously perched on the very edge of existence. Even a stunningly beautiful Mangrove Cuckoo that perched nearly overhead couldn’t distract us from this ultra-rarity.  

As we retraced our steps and entered a clearing, we were soon treated to amazing views of two of the other key targets for our first Lesser Antillean island - a plucky and vociferous Grenada Wren and an inquisitive Grenada Flycatcher. 

Our late morning ride up to splendid rainforests that dominate the north of the island saw our vehicle climb to an elevation of 2000ft and allowed for an audience with an entirely different cast of characters. Some patience was needed before a pair of Lesser Antillean (Grenada) Tanager showed well, allowing views of the lovely purple wash on the breast and rich maroon cap; and this was followed by a wonderfully poised and posing Rufous-breasted Hermit, along with a few feeding Green-throated Caribs. We also enjoyed an introduction to the all-black morph of Bananaquit - subspecies atterima unique to Grenada. After a roti picnic we returned to the hotel, where the rest of the afternoon was ours to lounge by the pool or swim in the turquoise waters of the nearby Caribbean Sea.  

Day 3 - Touching down in St. Vincent, we knew today may have challenges ahead. There are some birds which always prove more challenging than others, and when you consider the habitat destruction (due to a recent volcanic eruption), already critically low population and difficulty in accessing sites, the Whistling Warbler is one such bird. However, undeterred some of us made the trek into the moist montane forests of the north in an effort to see this stunning member of the monotypic genus Catharopeza. Higher and higher we climbed, trying our best to get a glimpse of this elusive creature. Unfortunately, although our local guide and one participant got a fleeting view of a Whistling Warbler, the rest of the group were unable to lock onto it.  

Our next birding site on St. Vincent took us deep into the realm of Amazona guildingii (second largest member of this species in the Caribbean). We hadn’t even gotten to where we had planned to go when we heard the unmistakable sounds of nearby parrots. Immediately, we stopped the vehicles and jumped out. Scanning the adjacent ridge, we soon laid eyes on one, then two, then three and four! These spectacular parrots were noisy as Amazonas often are, and within ten minutes it was clear that they were gradually making their way towards us. We then parked the vehicles off the road to avoid any potential disturbance from oncoming traffic and waited. Soon, we could count up to 23 of these magnificent St. Vincent Amazons, including a couple of the rarely seen green morph (see right-most bird on the image below). Most were shimmering bronze, and the closer they got, the more colours we could discern. Eventually some flew directly towards us, coming to land on the tree directly overhead! The deep sapphire blues and bright yellow contrasting with flame-orange, bronze, and verdant green were unforgettable. As if for a grand finale, an incoming Broad-winged Hawk caused the entire flock to take flight, and we were spellbound at the sight of almost two dozen of these birds whirling around us. Most of us didn’t even use binoculars at this point! It was then, most deservedly, beer o’clock; we turned around and began journeying back to the hotel – but not before one final grasp at another endemic.  

It only took us about five minutes and a short stroll in a residential area to nail spectacular views of the St. Vincent Wren. The second of the newly described wrens, this bird gave us spectacular views as we enjoyed more great looks at Grenada Flycatcher and Antillean Crested Hummingbird.

Day 4 - Waking at our beachfront hotel in St. Vincent, we enjoyed a buffet breakfast before setting off for the next island gem on our travels. 

After a hearty lunch, we set off on a drive towards the renowned Syndicate Nature Trail. There is something truly special about spending time in the company of an endangered species and watching it behaving naturally and blissfully unaware or at least unconcerned by our presence. Although anticipation was great, we caught a brief glimpse of a Red-necked Amazon flying across the road before we even began climbing toward Syndicate! The trail was quiet this afternoon, and although we enjoyed further brief views of Red-necked Amazons and Broad-winged Hawks, we decided to leave as it was getting dark without any sight of the other, larger, and arguably much more coveted Amazona. On our way out, some of us enjoyed point blank views of Plumbeous Warbler, foraging unconcerned mere feet from us. 

 Day 5 - The densely forested island of Dominica is home to not one but two magnificent endemic Amazonas, and the following morning our vans carried us deep into the Northern Forest Reserve where we were treated to another stunning display from Amazona arausiaca. Over the course of our time in the forest, more than 20 of these brilliantly coloured parrots wheeled and cavorted before us, many perching in sunlight kissed trees allowing for excellent scope views. Just as we were getting ready to pack it in for the morning’s session, the sharp metallic calls of the Imperial Amazon pierced the soundscape. Quickly, we begin to scan, and despite the encroaching clouds of the impending rainstorm, we manage to catch a view of this massive parrot on the adjacent ridge. Scopes were immediately fixed on this bird, and everyone enjoyed spectacular views of one of the rarest birds on the planet. Back out the trail, we enjoyed views of Brown Trembler, Kalinago Wren, and Plumbeous Warbler. 

With all this now under our belt, we departed the forest and headed to a nearby day roost of the enigma that is the Lesser Antillean Owl (left), after which we visited another site to enjoy stunning views of Red-legged Thrush and Lesser Antillean Saltator. We wound down another successful endemic chasing day with cocktails overlooking the bay at sunset.

 Day 6 - The day began with a relaxed breakfast overlooking the sparkling waters of the Caribbean Sea, while enjoying early morning sightings of Black-whiskered Vireo, Caribbean Elaenia, and Green-throated Carib. After breakfast some of us ambled along a short trail to a river, where we caught up on the first waterbirds of the trip including Spotted Sandpiper, Belted Kingfisher, Green Heron, and Little Blue Heron. After this we took a scenic drive to the port and subsequent boat ride across to Guadeloupe. Arriving in Guadeloupe we headed for the hotel and reconvened at dinner to do our checklist – although it was admittedly difficult to keep our minds on birds with red and white wine flowing liberally.  

Day 7 - Our morning in spectacular Guadeloupe began with an early breakfast before making for a birding site that always proves particularly popular for both tour participants and birds! The signs were promising from the get-go, as immediately upon exiting the vans, two Brown Tremblers show up trembling not 10 feet away among a fairly large group of Lesser Antillean Bullfinches. These long-billed orange-eyed mimids belong to a genus (Cinchlocerthia) known only to the Lesser Antilles - and everyone was thrilled with just how close the birds are to us. Immediately, we picked up the vocalizations of Bridled Quail-Dove. We cautiously made our way along the gentle slope to find not one but three usually secretive and notoriously elusive Bridled Quail-Doves! The birds then proceeded to walk past our position, literally a few feet from our feet! Cell phone videos and countless photos were taken. This was one of the undoubted highlights of the entire trip. 

Another primary target for this site was not quite as accommodating but still entertained. By perching atop a dark rock and gradually pivoting into the sun, the impressive chocolate trimmed white chevrons of the Forest Thrush practically glinted. With two targets having been seen, we strolled along the quiet tree-lined road, and while there, heard the first unmistakable vocalizations of Guadeloupe Woodpecker. At a site along the road known to support a family of 4 of this island's sole endemic, we paused. The calls steadily increased in both volume and proximity, until the unmistakable undulating pattern of a woodpecker flew across the road. Although the rain dampened things a bit, we still managed to locate a lone Guadeloupe Woodpecker via listening for its gentle tapping. On the opposite side of the roadway, we enjoyed nearby sightings of Plumbeous Warbler.  

Reluctantly leaving the Parc National du Guadeloupe, we paused along the 'Butterfly Island's' agricultural belt at an excellent site for Lesser Antillean Pewee, and here also had a surprise encounter with an overwintering American Redstart. Luckily for us, a Guadeloupe Woodpecker (left) made an unannounced arrival at eye level, and we were caught between looking at the pewee and the woodpecker for a brief moment. As the sun got warmer the birding slowed down for the day, so we gathered beneath a gazebo overlooking a fast-flowing river and here were served a delicious French picnic complete with a wide selection of cheeses, paté and wines. Later this afternoon it was on to Martinique.

Day 8 - We awoke to a sprawling buffet breakfast that boasted such tropical delights as pineapple, guava, and mango, along with freshly baked French pastries like pain au chocolat and croissants. And with pairs of Orange-winged Amazon winging their way between trees surrounding the hotel, we tucked in wholeheartedly. One of the most striking orioles in the Caribbean is undoubtedly the Martinique Oriole (right), and after arriving at our first site deep in the Carbet Mountains, one eventually showed spectacularly well; that rich burgundy hood contrasting sharply with the fiery orange in the wings and glossy black of the body. Another stunner known to this ancient mountain range is the Blue-headed Hummingbird, and after arriving at a pre-scouted feeding area, we were treated to ridiculously close views of an adult male (next page).

Leaving the mountains behind we made for the beautiful coastline of the northeast where our primary target, the Martinique Thrasher (below), revealed itself in stands of dry forest after a short walk. Although, some say not quite as well-dressed as its smartly tuxedoed cousin in St. Lucia, this blander and smaller version nevertheless offers superb views as it dexterously flicks leaves strewn across the forest floor in search of invertebrates. After lunch, looking out across shallow seas, we made for our hotel, where before dinner, some enjoyed drinks near the pool overlooking expansive Fort-de-France bay.  

Day 9 - Our transport to St. Lucia ended up being quite delayed and resulted in a very late arrival, so it was a case of straight to dinner (where delicious entrees including Caribbean-style braised lamb shank, Madras mahi mahi, and Soy and Orange glazed Red Snapper) and bed, in anticipation of a very full day of birding the following day.

Day 10 - An early start was necessary as we made our way through small sleepy villages towards prime habitat for the recently described St. Lucia Thrasher. Some exceedingly brief views witnessed by only a couple members of the group led us on a chase that lasted for the majority of the morning. Despite the group not getting onto the St. Lucia Thrasher in the end, we were all treated to amazing views of St. Lucia Warbler, Lesser Antillean Saltator, and Lesser Antillean (St. Lucia) Pewee. A few of us also saw a male/female pair of St. Lucia Black Finch foraging on the ground in the dry forest.  Just as there was a brief sighting of a St. Lucia Thrasher, a brilliant male St. Lucia Oriole (left) made an appearance directly overhead! Choices, choices!

As we approached the Des Cartiers Rainforest, the vast expanse of this lush landscape and signature natural attraction on an island that is 35% forested became ever more apparent. This is a special place, and as we commenced our steady and gradual ascent, a low mist began to roll in - only adding to the mystique and allure. At 2000ft the group arrived at the prime birding site - one offering optimum views of the deep valley below. It is here that the St. Lucia Amazons began to call. After 30 minutes, the calls gradually give way to sightings, as first pairs and then multiple couples began to emerge from deep within the forest and used the valley as a flyway to access fruiting trees - each mesmeric beat of their colourful wings punctuated the deep verdant backdrop with an eruption of sapphire blues and ruby reds. A couple members of the group opted to turn around after starting this trek given the difficulty of the terrain; this worked out as another member of the group sustained a minor injury on the trail which required first aid. 

Altogether we saw just over a dozen stunning St. Lucia Amazons. But the forest was alive with far more than this lone iconic species. A flittering turquoise crowned Lesser Antillean Euphonia darted side to side directly over our heads while an inquisitive St. Lucia Pewee (burnt orange breast glinting in the dappled sunlight) used exposed bare branches to launch itself towards all manner of flying insects disturbed by a short sharp downpour. At home in these moist high elevation forests the impressively sized and dazzlingly plumaged Purple-throated Carib also provided frequent sightings.  

After lunch we made another valiant attempt at St. Lucia Wren, exploring some habitat in the rugged northeast of the island. Unfortunately, we were unable to grab a view of this endemic wren, and we ultimately threw in the towel after a long day birding and headed to a nearby seaside restaurant for our dinner.  

Day 11 - After a quick breakfast at the hotel, we headed to the airport to catch our flight out of the island. A necessary transit through Barbados meant that we arrived on idyllic Antigua in time for lunch. After lunch, we relaxed for a couple hours before doing a calm and easy walk around the hotel grounds. Here, we picked up further sightings of American Kestrel, Zenaida Dove, and even a Yellow Warbler that was feeding on insects in a compost pit. As the sunlight faded, we found a perched White-crowned Pigeon (below) that sat long enough for everyone present to get a good view. Other members of the group elected to spend the afternoon snorkelling in the bright turquoise Caribbean Sea. Whatever our mission was for the afternoon, we reconvened for dinner and collected our packed breakfasts for the following day.

Day 12 - Our morning arrival on Montserrat proved particularly rewarding, as upon entering the forest we enjoyed almost instantaneous and stunningly close views of a male Montserrat Oriole (image on the following page). Although a few females called from the nearby bushes, they never showed themselves. Another target, the Forest Thrush, proved more challenging as it offered only a brief “chuck” call. An ever-inquisitive Pearly-eyed Thrasher kept eyes on us as we proceeded, and eventually the group came upon a clearing where two males and at least five female orioles had convened. A brief view of a possible Northern Parula led to a slightly less brief view of a female American Redstart, but no further confirmation on the parula. We enjoyed better looks at Caribbean Elaenia as well as the female Montserrat Orioles before heading to lunch. 

 Lunch was taken at a popular local establishment (especially on this day being Valentine’s Day), where kingfish, rice and peas, plantain, breadfruit and dasheen were eaten while looking out at the forested hillsides that dominate this quiet, idyllic island - albeit one under which lies a hidden danger in the form of the gargantuan stratovolcano which has rendered half the island uninhabitable. We paid a visit to the billowing slopes of this sleeping giant before making our way down to a beach known for nesting marine turtles, where we enjoyed distant flybys of Red-billed Tropicbirds.   

Day 13 - With a journey to Barbuda ruled out due to unseasonal high winds and seas, we set off early in the morning in search of waterbirds. We were not disappointed, as several Common Gallinules and a few Pied-billed Grebes bobbed in the water, flanked by overhanging vegetation where Black-crowned Night Herons, Great Egrets, and Green Herons lurked. A couple of Belted Kingfishers gave us great views as well. 

 Our next stop was McKinnon’s Salt pond that finally gave us a number of duck sightings, including White-cheeked Pintail, Blue-winged Teal, and Lesser Scaup. A lone Ruddy Duck fiddled around in the shadows as well, its distinctive cocked tail nevertheless still visible. A further walk along the shoreline provided a view of a couple Lesser Black-backed Gulls along with Royal Tern and Sandwich Tern. Many Brown Pelicans hunted the waters here as well, while Caribbean Elaenias and Antillean Crested Hummingbirds darted within the branches of the young mangrove trees. We returned to the hotel for lunch and checkout, after which we headed to the airport for our flight to the final island, Barbados. 

 Day 14 - The decision to set out on a pre-breakfast stroll along the mangrove-lined trails of Graeme Hall mangrove swamp proved fruitful, as we were treated to stunning views of the endemic subspecies of Common Gallinule, Carib Grackle, and even catch a view of a green vervet monkey. Yellow Nut Sedge is the dominant species of aquatic flora in the swamp, and the contrast in colors as the sun alights on the stems, gives us cause to pause and appreciate the early morning start. Coconut Trees line the trail, and it is here that we had our first views of the Barbados Bullfinch in a natural setting. Both male and female have pale brownish-gray plumage that is highlighted by a cinnamon vent and wings - in total contrast to the Lesser Antillean Bullfinches we have regularly encountered on other islands, in which the males are jet black and the females grayish-brown. With all key targets sighted at the swamp we returned to our beachfront hotel for breakfast before saying our goodbyes.  

-          Faraaz Abdool

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