Cruise: The Subantarctic Islands of New Zealand and Australia
![At sea, smaller species should include Subantarctic [Little] Shearwater...](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52504033831_5eeb8c76fe_m.jpg "At sea, smaller species should include Subantarctic [Little] Shearwater...")
‘Unique’ is an overused word these days, but it can be rightly applied to these remarkable islands that lie between the Subtropical and Antarctic Ocean Convergences south of New Zealand. Each island group has its own character and its own avifauna—an incredible and under-appreciated diversity of life within a small area, akin to the more famous Galapagos Islands but dominated by seabirds.
Breeding species include three endemic crested penguins, nine endemic albatross taxa, six endemic shags, and even parakeets and pipits. The subtropical Chatham Islands have Shore Plovers, Northern Buller’s Albatrosses, and two endemic shags; the stark Bounty Islands hold almost all the world’s Salvin’s Albatrosses; the Antipodes have their endemic parakeet and Antipodes [Wandering] Albatross, plus Erect-crested Penguins; Campbell is home of the Southern Royal Albatross; Macquarie has millions of Royal Penguins, thousands of Southern Elephant Seals and King Penguins; Enderby Island in the Auckland group is a pristine jewel of restored island biodiversity; and the Snares have millions of Sooty Shearwaters plus Snares Crested Penguins.
The relatively short at-sea transits between islands are never dull, with up to ten albatross species accompanying the boat as well as good numbers of many other tubenoses.
Day 1: The tour begins this evening with an informal get-together at the hotel for dinner, where we can meet staff and fellow passengers. Night in Queenstown.
Day 2: We’ll have a chance to explore Queenstown and stretch our legs on land before lunch, followed by transfer to the Port of Bluff where we board the Heritage Adventurer, our home for the next two weeks. As we set sail towards the Snares we’ll encounter the first of many albatrosses and shearwaters that will be our almost constant companions for this remarkable voyage.
Day 3: Named for their ability to snare many ships in days gone by, the Snares are the closest Subantarctic Islands to mainland New Zealand. They are uninhabited and landing is not permitted, but if conditions are suitable we’ll cruise by Zodiac along the sheltered eastern side of North East Island. Here we should enjoy great views of the endemic Snares Crested Penguin, and we’ll keep an eye out for a couple of landbirds: the perky Tomtit and elusive Fernbird. Other nesting seabirds include dapper Antarctic Terns, vast numbers of Sooty Shearwaters, and the handsome Southern Buller’s Albatross, which will just be returning to breed when we visit.
Day 4: Enderby Island, the northernmost island in the Auckland Island group, is a prime example of habitat restoration. Non-native pest species were cleared from the island in 1994, and populations of vulnerable species such as the flightless Auckland Teal and the endemic subspecies of Subantarctic Snipe have since started to recover, along with the vegetation. We plan to land at Sandy Bay, the main breeding ground for the rare New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lion, and from there we have some options to explore the island on foot. Birds we should see range from nesting Yellow-eyed Penguins and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross to ‘bush birds’ such as Tomtit and Bellbird, plus the endemic Auckland Shag, New Zealand Pipit, Red-crowned Parakeet, and perhaps some wintering shorebirds (waders), including the globe-trotting Bar-tailed Godwit and Ruddy Turnstone.
Day 5: Our full day at sea in the ‘furious fifties’ en route to Macquarie Island At Sea will be a great opportunity to see numerous albatrosses, from the majestic Snowy Wandering and Southern Royal to the ‘diminutive’ (for an albatross!) Black-browed and Gray-headed. Add to this numerous petrels, prions, shearwaters, and storm-petrels, plus the chance for a variety of marine mammals, and this should be an exhilarating seabirding day in the Southern Ocean.
Day 6–7: Macquarie Island, described by Australian explorer Sir Douglas Mawson as “one of the wonder spots of the world,” is a remote Australian territory. We’ll have two days to explore this amazing island, once ravaged by sealers and the rats, mice, cats, and rabbits that came with them. An ambitious program aimed to rid the island of non-native species appears to have been successful, and in 2014 the island was declared pest-free. The resulting regrowth of plant communities, which stabilize the soil, and population increases in breeding seabirds have been heartening to watch. Macquarie is the only place in the world where the beautiful Royal Penguin breeds, along with a true abundance of other Southern Ocean wildlife. As well as many thousands of King Penguins, and smaller numbers of Gentoo and Eastern Rockhopper Penguins, the beaches are often packed with Southern Elephant Seals, their breeding season in full swing during our visit. Antarctic Terns plunge-dive in sapphire-blue waters amid swirling kelp forests, the endemic Macquarie Shag rests on inshore rocks, and we might even find Common Redpoll–a pioneering group of this northern-hemisphere finch reached the island from its introduced populations in New Zealand! We’ll also have a chance to visit with staff of the Australian Antarctic Research Base at Buckles Bay, established in 1947 and one of the longest continually occupied bases in the Subantarctic.
Day 8: Another day at sea, heading northeast towards Campbell Island, and another day full of albatrosses and other tubenoses, likely including some honey-eyed Campbell Albatrosses, a relatively recent species split from the widespread Black-browed Albatross. And of course, there’s always time to relax in the ship’s bar, catch up on your reading in the library, and process your countless photos from the vast ‘penguin cities’ of Macquarie.
Day 9: Back in New Zealand, Campbell Island is the main breeding ground for the majestic Southern Royal Albatross, which arguably has a wingspan fractionally longer than the fabled Wandering Albatross. We’ll drop anchor in Perseverance Harbor and offer a number of options that will enable you to explore the island, which has experienced a checkered human history. Discovered in 1810, Campbell was soon occupied by sealers who introduced rats and cats; farming followed from 1895 until abandonment in 1934; coast-watchers were stationed on the island during the war, after which the New Zealand Metrological Service maintained a station until 1995. In the early 1970s the removal of farm animals commenced and all were eventually removed by 1990. The vegetation recovered quickly and the cats died out naturally, after which an ambitious eradication program by the New Zealand Department of Conservation successfully removed the rats. With the island declared pest-free, the critically endangered, flightless Campbell Teal could be reintroduced, and Subantarctic Snipe recolonized the main island themselves from relict populations on small offshore islets. The vegetation, which the great English botanist Sir Joseph Hooker described in 1841 as a “flora display second to none outside the tropics” also rebounded, and spectacular patches of colorful megaherbs add to the island’s character. During our visit we should see the endemic Campbell Shag and Campbell Teal, and perhaps even the elusive endemic subspecies of Subantarctic Snipe.
Day 10: Back at sea en route to the Antipodes, the seabirds will change subtly as we move slightly farther north, with Subantarctic [Little] Shearwaters, Mottled and White-headed Petrels, various prions (their taxonomy still vexed), and the handsome Antipodes Wandering Albatross, plus a chance for some interesting marine mammals.
Days 11: The Antipodes (literally, at the opposite side of the Earth from Britain) are one of the most isolated, least-known, and rugged of the Subantarctic Islands. Landings are not permitted, so we’ll cruise along the spectacular cliffs coast looking for two endemic parakeets—Antipodes Parakeet and Reischek’s Parakeet—while Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses wheel overhead in synchronized flight displays and half the world population of Erect-crested Penguins loafs on the shoreline and swims around the ship. Rising steeply from the sea like a lost world and lacking an appreciable coastal shelf means that these islands have no endemic shags.
Day 12: Discovered by Captain Bligh only months before the famous mutiny, the Bounty Islands comprise a few inhospitable, granite islets—another seabird mecca where landing is not possible, and even Zodiac cruising can be a challenge. Countless thousands of Salvin’s Albatrosses wheel around the stacks, and the other half of the world population of Erect-crested Penguins lives here, sharing the rock surfaces with albatrosses, Fulmar Prions (which, unusually, visit during daylight), and the endemic Bounty Shag, the world’s rarest. At-sea species also continue to change, perhaps including Northern Royal Albatross, Soft-plumaged Petrel, Broad-billed Prion, and Gray-backed Storm-Petrel, among many others.
Day 13: For seabird lovers this is a day not to miss—one year on this leg we saw 31 species of tubenoses (a world record?), including ten (!) albatrosses, and in this area we have also seen the very rare Magenta Petrel and Chatham Petrel. In the afternoon we’ll reach the subtropical Chatham Islands, starting with the well-named Pyramid Rock, home to essentially the entire world population of the handsome Chatham Albatross, as well as the recently described Pyramid Prion. We also plan to cruise by Zodiac along the coast of South East Island where we should find the dapper little Shore Plover, the endemic Chatham Oystercatcher and Pitt Shag, and the formally undescribed local taxon of Brown Skua, perhaps another cryptic species in this crucible of seabird endemism.
Day 14: The Chatham Islands represent New Zealand’s easternmost territory, and were originally settled by East Polynesians who became isolated and developed their own distinct culture. In the 1790s the islands were discovered by Europeans, and in the 1830s Maoris from New Zealand invaded the Chathams, killing and enslaving the indigenous people. The impact of all this human turmoil on the native flora and fauna was disastrous, but today the human population has a new awareness and a willingness to be part of a concerted conservation effort. Today we’ll go ashore on the main Chatham Island for a trip by bus to a private bush reserve on the south coast, where we should find the endemic Chatham Pigeon and Chatham Gerygone. We should also see the endemic Chatham Shag, and in late afternoon at sea we have another chance for the sought-after Magenta and Chatham Petrels, which are now breeding in fenced-off reserves on the main island.
Days 15–16. Our voyage to arguably the world’s greatest seabirding region will conclude, appropriately, with two full days at sea on our transit back to Bluff, in mainland New Zealand. En route we’ll cross the Chatham Rise, a large, submerged part of the Zealandia continent which stretches east from near the South Island of New Zealand. Here, nutrient-rich cool waters from the south mix with warm northern waters and consequently there is an interesting mix of pelagic species and the chance of beaked whales. What better way to wind down from a truly amazing voyage that to watch Wandering and Royal Albatrosses accompany the vessel, along with various petrels, shearwaters, prions, and storm-petrels. We’ll recap the highlights of our expedition and enjoy a farewell dinner as we complete the last few miles of our journey.
Day 17: Our adventure ends at the Port of Bluff, where we plan to arrive in early morning. After a final breakfast it will be time to bid farewell to our fellow voyagers and take a complimentary coach transfer to either Invercargill or Queenstown Airports.
2024 CABIN DESCRIPTIONS & PRICES:
(NOTE: The Registration Process is slightly different for this tour than our other WINGS tours. See below.)
All Prices are based on Double or Triple occupancy unless otherwise noted as “Single”.
Main Deck Triple $15,250 per person* (SOLD OUT)
Main Deck Triple Cabins on Deck 3 are a spacious 22m2 and feature two porthole windows, two single beds and one Pullman bed which folds down from the wall, comfortable lounge, writing desk, private en-suite with shower, ample storage and a flat screen entertainment system.
Superior Deck 4 $17,650 per person* (SOLD OUT)
Superior Cabins on Deck 4 are a spacious 22m2 and feature large panoramic windows, king or two single beds, comfortable lounge, writing desk, private ensuite with shower, ample storage and a flat screen entertainment system.
Main Deck Single $20,995 per person* Single Occupancy (This cabin is for travelers who wish to not share a room) (SOLD OUT)
Main Deck Single Cabins on Deck 3 are a spacious 22m2 and feature two porthole windows, king bed, comfortable lounge, writing desk, private en-suite with shower, ample storage and a flat screen entertainment system.
Heritage Suite $33,000 per person*
Located on Deck 6, Heritage Suites are an expansive 44m2 and feature large double panoramic windows, king bed, large living area with a sofa, coffee table and chairs and grand marble bathroom with a double basin, bathtub and shower, large writing desk, floor to ceiling cabinetry for storage and a flat screen entertainment system.
Worsley Suite $21,350 per person*
Located on Deck 6, Worsely Suites are a spacious 22m2 and feature large panoramic windows, king or two single beds, comfortable chaise-style lounge suite, writing desk, private en-suite with shower, ample storage and a flat screen entertainment system.
Superior Single $21,890 per person* Single Occupancy (This cabin is for travelers who wish to not share a room) (SOLD OUT)
Superior Single Cabins on Deck 5 are a spacious 22m2 and feature large panoramic windows, king bed, comfortable lounge, writing desk, private ensuite with shower, ample storage and a flat screen entertainment system.
Superior Triple $16,045 per person* (SOLD OUT)
Superior Triple Cabins on Deck 5 are a spacious 22m2 and feature large panoramic windows, two single beds and one Pullman bed which folds down from the wall, comfortable lounge, writing desk, private en-suite with shower, ample storage and a flat screen entertainment system.
Superior Deck 5 $18,150 per person* (SOLD OUT)
Superior Cabins on Deck 5 are a spacious 22m2 and feature large panoramic windows, king or two single beds, comfortable lounge, writing desk, private ensuite with shower, ample storage and a flat screen entertainment system.
CLICK HERE to veiw the boat deck plan.
For more details on the Heritage Adventurer ship, CLICK HERE.
How to Register: Return to the main tour page and click the Reserve Now button. Complete the Reservation form and mark “Phone/Mail/Other” as the payment method for the deposit. Submit the registration form. We will then contact you about your cabin selection and deposit amount.
Deposits & Payments: 25% of total cabin price is due at the time of booking. The remaining 75% of total price is then due 100 days prior to departure. Final payment for this cruise must be done by check, ach, money order, or bank wire. No credit cards please.
Cancellation and refund policies. Cancellations received more than 180 days before departure date will receive a full refund less a $750.00USD per person administration fee. For cancellations received from 179 days to 91 days before your embarkation the full deposit will be forfeited. The full expedition fee is forfeit if your notice of cancellation is received within 90 days of your departure date.
*Included Items: All miscellaneous service taxes, port charges and permit fees throughout the program, pre/post cruise transfers on the first and last day, one night hotel accommodation on Day 1 in the same rooming as your ship accommodation (shared or single occupancy), all on board ship accommodation with meals, house beer, wine and soft drinks with lunch and dinner, all expedition shore excursions, program of lectures by noted naturalists.
*Excluded Items: Fares do not include tips to ship staff; airfare, whether on scheduled or charter flights; pre- and post-cruise land arrangements prior to Day 1; passport and visa expenses; government arrival and departure taxes; meals ashore prior to the Day 1 dinner; baggage; travel (trip cancellation) insurance or personal insurance (Trip Insurance required); excess baggage charges; and all items of a personal nature such as laundry, bar, and telecommunication charges. Any hotel nights and transfers before embarkation or after disembarkation will be charged separately.
________________________________________________________________________
Note:The information presented here is an abbreviated version of our formal General Information for Cruises to the Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand and Australia. Its purpose is solely to give readers a sense of what might be involved if they take this tour. Although we do our best to make sure that what follows here is completely accurate, it should not be used as a replacement for the formal document which will be sent to all tour registrants, and whose contents supersedes any information contained here.
Note: All travelers from 60 visa waiver countries (including E.U. countries plus the US and Canada) will need to hold an ETA (Electronic Travel Authority) before entering New Zealand. This waiver has a minor cost and can be applied for online at New Zealand Electronic Travel Authority (NZeTA) | Immigration New Zealand. This is best done after you purchase your flights. This applies to travelers arriving by air or sea, as well as passengers simply transiting through New Zealand. Additionally, a fee called ‘The International Visitor Conservation and Tourism Levy’ may also be assessed at the same time as the ETA and will cost NZD$35.
Upon entry into New Zealand, Biosecurity New Zealand is very strict. Please make sure all footwear, tripod legs, camping gear etc. are spotless, free from any dirt or foreign material. Find specific information, including a video here: Bring or send to NZ | NZ Government (mpi.govt.nz)
HEALTH: Our vessel has a small clinic, and a qualified Western doctor trained in emergency medicine will be on board during the cruise. In order to insure that our on-board doctor has the information he or she needs, all cruise participants will be asked to fill out a health advisory, to be returned to the WINGS office no later than 60 days before sailing,
PACE OF TOUR: This varies on a daily basis. During days at sea you can sleep until breakfast or be out for an hour or two beforehand for some seabirding. The great thing about being on a ship is you can rest when you want, and even the shore excursions and zodiac cruises are ‘optional’ (but obviously are recommended!). On some landings there may be options for shorter or longer walks, and we will choose the ones best suited to birding. If in the course of the trip you are concerned about your ability to do any particular hike or activity, please consult the ship guides before you start. Zodiac excursions may range from 45 minutes to 2 hours, depending on local conditions.
Any condition discovered at or before boarding may, at the sole discretion of the ship’s captain, be grounds for denying the participant boarding privileges or requiring the participant to leave the ship and terminate his or her continued participation in the cruise. People thus excluded are responsible for all expenses associated with getting themselves home. By forwarding a deposit for this cruise, the cruise participant certifies that he or she is in good physical health and capable of performing the normal activities on this expedition.
CLIMATE: Subantarctic and maritime, which means potentially cool, wet, and windy, but more like the Aleutians or Scotland than the truly bone-chilling cold possible in Antarctica. Only at Macquarie Island (Australia!) is real cold a possibility; elsewhere it is wind that is the main concern, combined with the possibility of rain and fog, which can make things cool. Keeping dry is the main concern, but it can also be sunny and warm on some days, and sunscreen at these latitudes is recommended. Thermal or fleece pants and top with a windbreaker jacket and rain pants suffice for most occasions and on board you can also watch from inside.
OUR SHIP: Heritage Adventurer is a true pioneering expedition vessel of exceptional pedigree. Often referred to as the ‘Grande Dame of Exploration Cruising’ due to her celebrated history and refined design, she was purpose-built for adventure in 1991 at Finland’s Rauma shipyard and specifically designed for Polar exploration.
Setting a peerless standard in authentic expedition travel, Heritage Adventurer (formerly known as MS Hanseatic) combines the highest passenger ship ice-class rating (1A Super) with an impressive history of Polar exploration, having held records for the most northern and southern Arctic and Antarctic navigations, and for traversing both the Northwest and Northeast Passages.
ACCOMMODATION: Please see the complete printed General Information document for a plan of the decks and cabins.
MEALS: Our chefs will delight you with international cuisine, prepared with the freshest products available. Our chefs onboard can prepare food according to your special dietary needs (providing this information is given in advance of departure date, specified on the booking form). The ship may not be able to fulfill some dietary requests (details forthcoming).
COMMUNICATIONS: FORTHCOMING
DRESS: Informal throughout.
SMOKING: Smoking is not allowed when the group is gathered for meals, checklists, etc. If any site where the group is gathered has a stricter policy than the WINGS policy, the stricter policy will prevail.
GENERAL INFORMATION AND CONDITIONS OF WINGS TOURS: Please take a moment to read the General Information and Conditions on the WINGS website. This section contains important information about how we conduct tours, e.g., what is included in the tour price, refund and cancellation policies, pace of the tours, and other information that will help you prepare for the tour.
FINAL INFORMATION: Final information with instructions for meeting the group, hotel addresses, etc., will be mailed about three weeks before trip departure. Other news will be communicated as necessary. If you have any questions, please let us know.
2024 Narrative
In Brief:
From cacophonous colonies of penguins and great albatrosses sailing effortlessly amid towering waves, to tiny Tomtits and ‘sociable’ sea lions, this was a trip of contrasts, and a wonderful opportunity to visit some unique, remote, and rarely visited islands. Highlights were many and varied, from point-blank views of handsome Erect-crested and Snares Crested Penguins to weaving ballets of Salvin’s Albatrosses accompanying the ship; from up close and personal King and Royal Penguins (not to mention those adorable weaner Elephant Seals!) to puzzling over enigmatic prions; and from seeing the near-mythical Magenta Petrel up close and personal to circling the iconic Pyramid Rock, home to the world population of Chatham Albatross.
We saw 8 species of penguins, some 41 species of tubenoses (including 13 albatrosses), 6 island-endemic shags, and many other specialties, such as the flightless species (for now!) of Auckland and Campbell Teal, and the elusive Auckland and Campbell subspecies (for now!) of Subantarctic Snipe. Add to this some spectacular seas, otherworldly island geology, and varied endemic landbirds—such as the extremely local Forbes’ Parakeet and the gigantic Chatham Pigeon—and this trip produced memories to last a lifetime.
In Detail:
Day 1. 3 December 2012. We all arrived safely from our varied points of origin and gathered in Queenstown for an enjoyable buffet dinner to meet our fellow travelers and receive an introduction from Nathan Russ about the trip to come, followed by a welcome sleep.
Day 2. A morning free to rest, organize, or wander a little in Queenstown. After an early buffet lunch we loaded buses for 3-hour drive to the harbor in Bluff, where in mid-afternoon we boarded Heritage Explorer, our home for the next 16 days. After time to settle into our cabins and explore the ship we did the mandatory safety drill, followed by an introductory briefing from Heritage staff as we pulled away about 6 pm to head out into the Southern Ocean. The meaning of ‘harbor’ was graphically apparent as we headed from the flat water of Bluff into the howling wind and rolling sea of the Foveaux Strait, separating South Island from Stewart Island. A short period of evening birding after dinner provided a taste of things to come: three species of albatross, including a majestic Southern Royal, plus Pintado and Cook’s Petrels, thousands of Sooty Shearwaters, and a surprise Westland Petrel.
46o35'S 168o20'E (Bluff), with at-sea birding 7.15–8.30 pm from the shelter of Deck 5 at the stern; sea-surface temperature (SST) 15oC. Mostly cloudy, 30 increasing to 40+ knot W wind and cross swells.
Day 3. After leaving the lee of Stewart Island in the early hours we really got to experience the notorious ‘Southern Ocean Roll’—which continued through the day and made for challenging Zodiac cruises. We arrived at the Snares in early morning to be surrounded by hundreds of thousands of Sooty Shearwaters and thousands of Pintado Petrels, plus our first penguins and some good views of Common Diving Petrels. The howling gale didn’t look good, but careful ship positioning by the captain meant we were able to launch Zodiacs in mid-morning, allowing for an up-close experience with the remarkable flora and fauna of our first island outpost.
The undoubted highlight was simply being among masses of the endemic Snares Crested Penguin (above), with groups standing around on the rocks and amid the lush kelp as well as swimming and porpoising all around! The otherworldly forest, growing on burrow-riddled soil (home to millions of shearwaters and other petrels) held the endemic all-black Tomtit and the somewhat elusive Fernbird, while families of Antarctic Terns, marauding skuas, lounging fur seals, and a surprise Southern Elephant Seal were also great. One Zodiac group even heard (just once!) the elusive and rarely encountered Snares Snipe. Back out to sea and heading south, mountainous rolling swells made for some spectacular birding (and a challenging dinner!), as we watched numerous albatrosses following the ship, plus increasing numbers of Mottled Petrels, prions (of at least 3 flavors), and Black-bellied Storm Petrels, along with (eventually) a single Southern Buller’s Albatross.
48o00'S 166o40'E (Snares) ending 6 pm at 48o20'S 166o34'E; SST 14–11oC. Mostly cloudy am, becoming variably cloudy, sunny pm, 40+ knot W wind and 5–6 m cross swells!
Day 4. Thankfully, seas dropped during the night, and a gray misty dawn found us approaching Enderby Island, in the north of the Auckland group. Early birding from the back of Deck 5 featured numbers of prions, mainly Antarctic but also a single Fulmar Prion (presumably of the poorly known flemingi (sub)species, endemic to the Auckland Islands), plus our first Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and White-headed Petrel, two stunning and iconic tubenoses of the region. After breakfast, we prepared for what would be a memorable day ashore. Enderby is a great example of an island that is reverting to its natural state thanks to the eradication of non-native mammals. Hence, many birds are remarkably confiding, from pipits at one’s feet and fluttering Tomtits, to ground-feeding Red-crowned Parakeets and handsome Double-banded Dotterels. Add to this a scattering of Yellow-eyed Penguins, elusive Subantarctic Snipe (left) scurrying underfoot, and of course the spectacle of Hooker's Sealions on the beach (with boisterous subadult males scattered around the island!). Oh, and then there were the flowering megaherbs, nesting Southern Royal Albatrosses, a brief fly-by New Zealand Falcon, the gnarled rata forest, a vagrant Paradise Shelduck, and on and on... One group had the option of a mid-afternoon Zodiac cruise along impressive, columnar basalt cliffs, with close-up colonies of the handsome Auckland Shag, plus somberly plumaged Auckland Island Teal (below), and even a low-down Light-mantled Sooty nest. But all too soon it was time to pull away. As we cruised south off the east coast of the main Auckland Island in late afternoon, prion numbers (most or all Antarctic) built into silvery swarms of thousands gleaming in sunlight. Passing close by Adams Island we saw our first Gibson’s Wandering Albatross, plus a surprise Southern Buller’s and more Light-mantled Sooties. Moving away from the lee into heaving swells after dinner, birds changed again and White-headed Petrel became the commonest bird, along with good numbers of Black-bellied and Gray-backed Storm Petrels.
6 am = 50o21'S 166o22'E, 6 pm = 51o05'S 165o30'E; SST 8oC. Overcast and misty with intermittent brighter periods, clearing to sunny in early evening; 10–25 knot W winds with 3–5 m swells.
Day 5. All day at sea, heading SW towards Macquarie Island. Over deep water all day, and thus relatively quiet for birding, crossing into Australian waters at 11.10 am. Then again, can you really refer to a day with six albatross species as quiet? Throughout the day we enjoyed Gibson’s Wanderers and Southern Royals coming and going, plus our first Campbell and Gray-headed Albatrosses. Gadfly petrels took the form of White-headed and Mottled, plus our first Soft-plumaged Petrel, and the day’s cast was rounded out with more Gray-backed and Black-bellied Storm Petrels.
6 am = 52o10'S 163o33'E, 6 pm = 53o13'S 161o29'E; SST 8oC. Overcast to mostly cloudy, 15+ knots cool W wind with 3–5 m swells.
Day 6. ‘Dawn’ found us in gentler seas under gray overcast skies heading south along the west coast of Macquarie—a rarely visited side of the island given the typically strong, prevailing westerly winds. Spectacular steep green slopes and ridges of uplifted oceanic crust form this southern outpost of Australia, with beaches and lower slopes holding densely packed penguin colonies. Macquarie Shags flew out to investigate the ship as we rounded the southern tip, where distant white specks represented a scattering of nesting Gray-headed and Black-browed Albatrosses. Moving north along the eastern coast we viewed the huge King Penguin colony at Lusitania Bay, before moving on to Sandy Bay for landings and Zodiac cruises.
Words cannot really describe the experience of arriving at a beach packed with stately King Penguins and groups of hurrying Royal Penguins, of watching skuas and lounging and lunging Southern Elephant Seals, with the associated sounds and smells, while giant-petrels wheel overhead against the green, well-vegetated cliffs, and Macquarie Shags fly past. The low cloud ceiling and misting conditions gradually changed to allow some sunny spells, and this really was one special day. It seemed as if we were on another planet, the Planet of the Penguins; the rest of the world was so far removed as to be completely forgotten. And how many photos were taken?!
With golden ears
And silver shawl
Bills pointed to the skies
They show no fears
And stand so tall
Emitting bugle cries
All ruling here
An island home
Remote and rarely seen
An atmosphere
That few will roam
And fewer still have seen
Lunch on board was interrupted by a nicely ‘orcastrated’ showing of Killer Whales from the dining room, and then ship groups switched roles: those who’d been onshore in the morning enjoyed Zodiac cruising along the coast to ‘the Brothers’ and viewing of an Eastern Rockhopper Penguin colony, and vice versa. We spent the night anchored off Sandy Bay and slept well!
Mostly cloudy to overcast, 10–15 knot E wind; SST 5oC.
Day 7. Macquarie Island and at sea. During breakfast, Heritage Adventurer cruised north the short distance to view landing conditions at the isthmus near the Australian base. Although the wind had switched to the forecast southwesterly, residual swells and big breakers made an east-side landing impossible so we moved around to the west side. There, a landing looked possible—although the quickly strengthening wind meant we had to make trips ashore brief. Still, 30 minutes or so per group was plenty of time to appreciate the Gentoo Penguin colony and get a taste for a different part of the island—including the landing beach densely populated with weaner elephant seals! Although wind and building swell made the last few Zodiac trips back to the ship a bit challenging, everything was achieved with little more than a few boot-fulls of cold water thanks to great work by the captain and gangway crew.
An exhilarated shipload of birders and others then headed back out to sea, and on towards our next island destination, Campbell. The following wind and seas meant we could watch from the top deck for the first time and appreciate a 360-degree seascape. The afternoon at sea was productive for oceanic birds, including our only Blue Petrels, a steady flight of Short-tailed (plus a few Sooty) Shearwaters, seven albatross species (including Light-mantled Sooties right outside the dining room windows!), and—arguably bird of the day—a dark morph Soft-plumaged Petrel, a rarely seen bird indeed.
Macquarie to sea, ending at 6 pm = 54o10'S 160o37'E. Overcast to partly cloudy am, sunny and partly cloudy pm, 15 increasing to 35+ knots SW wind with 3–5 m swells.
Day 8. All day at sea, heading ENE towards Campbell Island and crossing back into New Zealand waters at 7.30 a.m. Viewing conditions on the top deck were mostly good, save for an occasional squall or periods of bright sun, and slow but steady birding marked the day. Notable was that our day list comprised 21 species of tubenoses and no other birds—truly a day out on the ocean! Highlights included Wandering and Southern Royal Albatross with us all day, good views of three storm-petrel species, and our first Subantarctic [Little] Shearwaters and (presumed?) Slender-billed Prions. A small group of Long-finned Pilot Whales also contributed a burst of cetacean excitement. Lectures and biosecurity procedures filled out the rest of a fine day at sea.
6 am = 53o38’S 163o35'E, 6 pm = 53o06'S 166o36'E; SST 8oC. Variably cloudy, often sunny but cold, 25–35 knots cool W wind with a.m. squalls, 3–5 m swells.
Leathery liquid pewter
Heaving and sighing with swell
Squally and leaden horizon
Foreboding what no-one can tell
Day 9. Campbell Island. We awoke with glorious, golden early morning light bathing the North Head cliffs, where the sights—and sounds—of the large Campbell Albatross colony, along with good numbers of Gray-headed Albatrosses, made for a truly special start to the day. And the close fly-by Campbell Shags were a bonus!
Before long, however, clouds formed to cloak the island’s higher slopes as we cruised south and into Perseverance Harbor, our base for the remainder of the day. Some folks spent the day climbing the boardwalk to Col Lyall, while others opted for a morning Zodiac cruise—with superb views of the flightless endemic Campbell Teal (below) and also of the local so-called Antarctic Terns—and an afternoon option on the boardwalk. Onshore, majestic Southern Royal Albatross sat on nests scattered around the fog-enshrouded tussock, and close-up, personal experiences with this icon of Campbell Island were a truly moving experience (especially when moved by the gale-force winds!). Time on land was cut short by an incoming weather system and we headed away in mid-pm, with seas whipped into white-capped frenzy as numerous Southern Royals and other albatrosses sailed around us effortlessly, in their element. Overall, it was one very exhilarating day, followed by a fine dinner and a well-deserved sleep.
Campbell Island, ending 6 pm at 52o28'S 163o35'E; SST 8oC. Partly cloudy and sunny, becoming overcast/undercast with rain squalls; 25–40 knot E winds switching to 40+ knot SW winds, gusts to 50–60 knots, 5–6 m swells at sea.
Day 10. At sea heading ENE towards the Antipodes. A day of albatrosses and then fog... We awoke to the classic 'Southern Ocean' spectacle of numerous albatrosses and White-chinned Petrels circling the ship, with countless chances to see that elusive 'honey eye' on the handsome Campbell Albatross—plus a couple of Black-browed Albatrosses with their beady dark eyes. Various talks were given during the day, including the basics of prion ID (short version = “good luck”) and albatross ID. The daily recap included an interesting talk by Phil about how the Campbell Teal was rediscovered and brought back from the edge of extinction, and an after-dinner discussion of taxonomy explained why it often seems subjective and arbitrary (short answer: because it is!).
6 am = 51o36'S 172o36'E, 6 pm = 50o48'S 175o15'E; SST 8oC. Variably cloudy, becoming foggy in pm, with 15–25 knot NW winds; 2–3 m swells.
Day 12. We awoke to find Heritage Adventurer still fog-bound, but with pleasant low seas. A few birds showed in the wake and around 8.30 am the Antipodes Islands magically emerged from the fog like a lost world, their towering dark volcanic cliffs capped in cloud, with the braying choruses of penguins carrying out to the ship. Zodiac cruises produced both endemic parakeets—the all-green Antipodes (below) and red-crowned Reischek’s—along with close-up views of the decidedly snazzy Erect-crested Penguins (above). Pipits parachuted in song flights as Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses wheeled overhead and furseals lounged on kelp-fringed rocks emerging from mesmerizingly crystal-clear waters. Among the numerous NZ Furseals we found a few Subantarctic (aka Subtropical) Furseals, and sea conditions were good enough to allow a Zodiac visit to adjacent Bollons Island, something rarely done!
After an aft-deck barbeque lunch to celebrate our success, the captain made a circumnavigation of the main Antipodes Island in glorious sunlight, showcasing the tortured volcanic coastal formations of cliffs, stacks, caves, and waterfalls. In late afternoon we departed this remote and remarkable location and headed off north for our overnight transit to the Bounty Islands.
Foggy, becoming mostly clear and sunny. 10–20 knot NW winds, choppy swells.
Day 13. Dawn found us at the Bounty Islands, a rugged group of exposed stacks. These islands are one of nature's untold spectacles, absolutely packed with nesting albatrosses, penguins, and furseals, along with (Greater) Fulmar Prions (below) and the handsome Bounty Shag (below), perhaps the rarest (and certainly the most localized) shag in the world. The choppy seas and dashing white surf added to the atmosphere as thousands of Salvin's Albatrosses wheeled about or sat on the water, along with hundreds of Pintado Petrels, while groups of shags flew out to greet us and circle the ship.
Zodiac cruises in choppy seas revealed just how packed with life these remote rocky stacks are—almost every surface covered with albatrosses (including fuzzy chicks in nests), penguins, and fur seals—and what a cacophony! Wheeling ballets of Salvin’s Albatrosses accompanied us away from the Bounties as we headed towards the Chatham Islands, the last island group on our itinerary. We crossed the 180o meridian in mid-afternoon, and by late afternoon fog set in and seas settled a little.
6 pm = 46o38'S 179o22'W; SST 10–11.5oC. Variably cloudy and mostly sunny am, with 15–25 knot NW winds and 3–4 m cross swells, becoming foggy in late pm.
Day 14. A 5 am start revealed continuing foggy conditions, but we encountered good numbers of prions (including, presumably, the enigmatic ‘Pyramid Prion’) and storm petrels, as well as our first Chatham and Northern Buller’s Albatrosses, before the iconic Pyramid Rock hove into view. Skies cleared and we enjoyed a close-range circuit of the Pyramid, home to the world population of Chatham Albatross, as well as 1 or 2 pairs of Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross—which somehow we picked out amid the masses! Then it was on to Southeast Island, where the weather approached borderline ‘hot’ and the sun even broke through. Zodiac cruises along the shoreline of this lush and predator-free refuge allowed us great views of the dapper little Shore Plover (left), along with Red-crowned Parakeets and Chatham Oystercatcher, plus Pitt Shags and White-fronted Terns nesting on sculpted cliff faces dripping with carpets of pink flowers.
Low cloud and fog started to return as we moved on to Little Mangere Island, via scattered swimming groups of Little Penguins, but the captain nosed Heritage Adventurer so close that we were able to spot the very localized Forbes’ Parakeet—quite an achievement! We ended the day in foggy and calm conditions, cruising close inshore in the hope of encountering a Magenta or Chatham Petrel—but it was not to be.
5 am = 45o06'S 177o10'W; SST 13–14oC. Foggy to variably cloudy and sunny, to foggy again; 10 knot N winds and low seas.
Day 15. A mild and pleasant dawn found us getting ready for a day ashore on the main Chatham Island, which is 45 minutes ahead in time from the rest of New Zealand. After 2 weeks of visiting remote and largely pristine islands, the pastoral landscape and human habitation of the Chathams came as a bit of a shock to the system—not to mention the abundant Eurasian Skylarks. We landed at the main
town, Waitangi, and loaded into a medley of vehicles (including the local police cars!) for transit to the Awatotara Valley and a vehicle reshuffle to continue south to the Sweetwater Reserve. There, 800 meters of some serious predator-exclusion fencing helps protect 2.4 hectares, where 25 pairs of Magenta Petrel breed—aka half of the world population of this near-mythical bird! Mike Bell gave great commentary on the reserve and the Taiko Trust, while Dave Boyle showed us one of the Magenta Petrels up close and personal (above)—a refreshing taste of what can be done with some foresight and commitment to conservation.
A second stop at Awatotora, a private reserve under the stewardship of Bruce and Liz Tuanui, also gave a glimpse into what there once was, and by the end of the morning we had all seen the endemic (and huge!) pigeon and gerygone, as well as endemic subspecies of Tui and New Zealand Fantail. Back in town there was time to relax, wander, appreciate island life, shop, and stop at the pub for a drink and some fish and chips. All aboard by 5 pm we headed south a little, passing some relatively close Chatham Shags before changing course for the NZ mainland.
Variably cloudy and mild (warm, even!), with a light N breeze; SST 15oC.
Days 16–17. Two final days at sea, heading back WSW towards Bluff and crossing back over the 180o meridian the morning of Day 16. A good time to relax, pack, attend a variety of talks and presentations, and appreciate a diversity of tubenoses—two whole days without another type of bird, and even some sunshine! It was indeed fitting to end our voyage with 8 species of albatross, 14 petrels (including the poorly known Pycroft’s—but sadly only two prion species!), and 3 storm petrels.
In the afternoon, we enjoyed cocktails and a wonderful recap slideshow of this remarkable voyage to a little-visited but magical part of the planet before a final night captain’s dinner.
Day 16, 6 am = 44o45'S 179o54'W to 44o25'S 176o47'E; SST 13oC. Overcast to mostly cloudy, 25+ dropping to 20 knot S wind with mixed swells.
Day 17, 6 am = 45o59'S 173o50'E to 46o31'S 170o57'E; SST 12oC. Variably cloudy, sunny pm; 15–25 knot NE winds and a following sea.
Day 18. The pilot came aboard early and we tied up at the wharf shortly after 6 am. After customs formalities it was time to disembark and begin our travel homeward or on to other destinations. Thanks to all for making this such a wonderful and memory-filled trip to one of the special places on the planet, some 2700 nautical miles traveled and seven remarkable island groups visited.
- Steve Howell, 2024
* Please see the Tour Information page for cabin descriptions and pricing, deposit requirements, and the cancellation and refund policies applicable to this cruise.
** Posted pricing is a CASH PRICE (check, ACH, bank transfer). Deposits and final payments are required by check, ACH, or bank transfer/wire.
Single occupancy rooms are limited. If you wish to have single occupancy (these cabins are noted as single occupancy on the Tour Information page), please specify this in your registration and we will notify you if this is not possible.
This tour is set at 10 participants with one leader, 12 with two leaders.
More Tours with these Leaders
