We completed our extensive loop through the mountains, deserts, rainforests, cloudforests, and paramo of southern Ecuador, tallying nearly 500 species, including most of the small country’s mainland endemics and some of the most spectacular birds. This required that we get into some pretty remote places, which were, quite conveniently, not too far from beautifully situated and comfortable lodges that were just right for us. The Nangaritza Valley, located in the far southeastern corner of Ecuador, was one such spot. Here, Arutam, the Shuar god of thunder, riding his toucan, presided over us as we watched Orange-throated Tanagers and Purplish Jacamars.