2011 Tour Narrative
Morocco is one of those countries where I always wonder if this year’s tour will live up to the standard set by last year - and in 2011 I needn’t have worried! After a couple of hours seeing the chaos of Marrakech and in particular Djema el Fna square, with its hundreds of Pallid and Little Swifts and breeding White Storks, we set off early for the High Atlas. On the journey we enjoyed our first Levaillant’s Woodpeckers, Black-shouldered Kites, Ultramarine Tits, Atlas Chaffinches and Cirl Buntings before reaching the more sparsely-vegetated higher ground. There both Alpine and Red-billed Choughs were easily seen, along with Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Sparrow, Black Wheatear, Black Redstart and Long-legged Buzzards. After one of many delicious tajines we walked uphill to the radar tower, seeing Moussier’s Redstarts, Atlas Horned Larks and Woodlarks before the grand finale of Crimson-winged Finches feeding at our feet! This species can be very difficult some years so seeing them on the first afternoon meant that we could enjoy dinner and a beer before an early night and another early start.
The following morning the finches had increased in number and then it was time for us to leave. We saw Little Owl and Desert Grey Shrikes along the journey, followed by another Maghreb endemic, Tristram’s Warbler, our only Rock Buntings, raptors in the form of Booted, Bonelli’s and Short-toed Snake Eagles. Shortly before our hotel we had both Fulvous Babbler and Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters, all very rewarding in ever increasing windy conditions.
A full day around Tagdilt offered us all the hoped for larks including Thick-billed, Hoopoe, Bar-tailed, Temminck’s, Thekla and both Lesser and Greater Short-toed. Nearby were both Desert and Red-rumped Wheatears, Trumpeter Finches, Cream-coloured Courses, Crowned Sandgrouse, Melodious Warbler, Common Redstart and small groups of Barn Swallows on migration.
From here we continued southeast towards the Sahara and the beautiful Erg Chebbi dunes. The species list continued to grow with Brown-necked Raven, Lanner Falcons, Ruddy Shelduck, Long-billed Crested Lark, Rufous Bush Robin, Spectacled, African Desert, Saharan Olivaceous and Scrub Warblers, Desert Sparrows, not to mention more Thick-billed Larks! We were treated to a couple of Egyptian Nightjars sitting on the ground before our days excursion in 4x4’s, and later that day even saw an adult on the nest in broad daylight. Déjà vu from 2010!
Our hotel in the Sahara is one of the finest around, with great food and so much atmosphere. It’s also a great migrant trap and over the course of two days produced Rufous Bush Robin, Western Orphean, Western Olivaceous, Western Subalpine, Garden, Willow and Western Bonelli’s Warblers, Nightingale, Spotted and Pied Flycatchers (sadly not an Atlas), European Turtle Dove, European Bee-eater, Yellow and Iberian Wagtails, Woodchat Shrikes and of course the resident White-crowned Wheatears. Nearby a female Montagu’s Harrier floating across sandy dunes was a highlight for many as it so epitomised desert migration. Spine-tingling stuff!
As we left the Sahara we saw hundreds of Brown-necked Ravens, a Black-winged Stilt sharing a sandy pool with Little Ringed Plovers and having found ‘Ali the Nomad’ he kindly took us to the new nesting site for Pharaoh Eagle Owl. The fact that he could see the bird with his small pair of bins, when only its eartufts and eyes were visible was quite remarkable.
Back around Ouarzazate we enjoyed the Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and Fulvous Babblers again, and early morning saw us record Marbled Ducks, Night and Squacco Herons, and Collared Pratincoles before continuing to the coast.
The strong winds were a feature of most afternoons and by the time we reached the Souss, having stopped for Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Lanner Falcons, coffee and lunch, it was probably up to a force 7. Over two visits to the Souss, one to Massa and one to Tamri we recorded a superb selection from almost touchable Bald Ibis (always a privilege), Black-crowned Tchagras, Laughing Doves, Stone-curlew, Brown-throated Sand Martin, Red-rumped Swallows, Lesser-crested and Black Terns, Audouin’s and Mediterranean Gulls, Little Owls, Moroccan Cormorant, Eurasian Spoonbills, Glossy Ibis, Little Bittern, Red Knot, Curlew Sandpiper, Eurasian Whimbrel, Bar-tailed and Black-tailed Godwits, European Kingfisher, Moussier’s Redstarts, Sardinian Warblers, Moroccan Wagtail, Serin, and more and more and more.
We packed in plenty of birding in our 10 days, ate some great food, saw some of the most impressive scenery that I have witnessed, and we were constantly amazed at the warmth and friendliness of the local people. One of the highlights for the leader was our driver, one of the finest I have met, with a very comfortable bus, but especially the patience to deal with a group of birders! Once again, as soon as my feet landed at home I’m already looking forward to next year’s tour. – James Lidster
Updated: September 2011