Tour Narrative
We had an amazing start to this year’s Jamaica tour with Crested Quail-Dove, Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo, and Jamaican Blackbird – three missable birds – already on the first afternoon. After that it was smooth sailing, with all 27 of the AOU-recognized species seen on our fourth day of birding, followed by 15 endemic subspecies, some of which will surely be accorded species status eventually. The bird with the highest number of votes as favorite was the adorable Jamaican Tody, which we saw every day, often at very close range. But our views of a Northern Potoo were also very memorable, as were both forms of the astounding Streamertail. A thorough sampling of Jamaica’s fabulous food (from authentic jerk seasoning to two different versions of the dessert matrimony) and opportunities to learn about the island’s history rounded out this short and relaxed tour.
Our first endemic species was the Jamaican Mango near our Port Royal hotel, but only after we had seen many Vervain Hummingbirds (an endemic subspecies) as well as a good number of wood-warblers, including a knot of Prairie Warblers, Ovenbird, Northern Waterthrush, Northern Parula, and the endemic subspecies of the Yellow (Golden) Warbler. Our 10-minute stop for White-tailed Tropicbird turned into a 20-minute stop when they finally appeared right at ten minutes, and we took the next ten to watch at least three birds flying back and forth. The same spot held a lovely Caribbean Scrub-Hairstreak on its croton host plant.
We then spent the rest of that afternoon and the next morning on the Ecclesdown Road, soaking up the unique island avifauna. It was an amazing year for Ring-tailed Pigeon, with dozens flying over in flocks all day, many landing in fruiting trees near the road, offering better views than we get most years. Both species of parrot were evident, though only Black-billed perched for us. We struggled to get good looks at Jamaica Tody our first afternoon, but by mid-morning on our second day we were fully satisfied – not that we ignored our many additional sightings of this wonderful bird. The Jamaican Blackbirds and Yellow-shouldered Grassquits put on terrific shows, and we eventually left the Ecclesdown Road having seen all but three or four endemics. Our hotel near Port Antonio was also birdy – especially full of the endemic subspecies of Northern Mockingbird (one very young fledgling squeaking like a Cedar Waxwing) and Greater Antillean Grackle. But here we saw the Jamaican Owl, Antillean Nighthawk, Jamaican Woodpecker at a nest, and our only Cape May Warbler while enjoying stunning views of the blue Caribbean Sea and great food made by our villa helpers.
We spent a fruitful midday at Green Castle Estate, the second time WINGS has visited this hot spot for lunch and birding. Greater Antillean Bullfinch was particularly easy to see here, our first Red-billed Streamertails were suddenly everywhere, a very cooperative Mangrove Cuckoo was spotted by our local guide Dwayne, and shy Caribbean Doves were calling all over the place. The reservoir was the best spot, providing our only Caribbean Coot plus a bonanza of other water birds to sift through.
Having already seen the quail-dove and the blackbird, we were able to make a relaxed and casual morning of birding in the Port Royal Mountains above Kingston. The evocative song of the Rufous-throated Solitaire really gives this stretch of road its character, and we finally had great views of one. Blue Mountain Vireo was our 26th endemic, followed by Jamaican Pewee for our final endemic species on the island, and we enjoyed more and better views of Greater Antillean Bullfinch, more Yellow-shouldered Grassquits, our first Black-faced Grassquits, and had glimpses of a Swainson’s Warbler. We then worked our way from these comfortable highland temperatures to the hottest part of the island. On the way to Portland Cottage we added Sora, Tricolored Heron, and Mourning Dove to our growing list. Once in the right area, in short order we were having great views of both endemic (and likely splittable) subspecies of Stolid Flycatcher and Bahama Mockingbird before moving on to the delightful Marshall’s Pen for two nights.
The Cockpit Country provided exactly what we were after – excellent views of Yellow-billed Parrots perched, while along the whole walk we had a fantastic, all-morning show of both species of parrots, flocks around every corner, perched close and flying by in perfect light. Jamaican Crows were easy to see, their comical babbling call eliciting laughter from us, and we still hadn’t had enough of the Jamaican Tody as we stopped to watch several. The litany of endemic plants added to the enjoyment of the walk, but the showstopper was certainly the pair of Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoos building a nest. What was presumably the male would snap off twigs anywhere from a couple feet to a few yards from the nest and carry each one back to the female, who placed them appropriately as she remained nestled down on the nest.
Marshall’s Pen was also full of endemics, with more opportunities to revisit such goodies as both Jamaican Lizard- and Chestnut-bellied Cuckoos, Jamaican Elaenia, Orangequit (on the oranges) and finally good views of the very sneaky White-eyed Thrush. The scattered bird seed also allowed us to catch up with the endemic subspecies of Caribbean Dove and Yellow-faced Grassquit. On our one night walk we succeeded in getting great views of a Northern Potoo on a small snag right out in the open, and we heard the first young Jamaican Owl of the season as well.
On our last day we visited several water bird spots, padding the list with birds such as Wilson’s Plover, Semipalmated Sandpiper, and Osprey, also getting lucky with a few West Indian Whistling-Ducks. The feeding station at Rocklands was a unique experience enjoyed by all, some having more luck than others with hummingbird perching on fingers, but nevertheless enjoying such close views of so many endemic species. Finally, a thorough check of the Montego Bay Sewage ponds brought more waterbirds such as abundant coots, Ruddy Ducks, and egrets, with only a passing hope of finding a rarity, all of us being already satisfied knowing we had already seen all of Jamaica’s endemics to our heart’s content.
- Rich Hoyer
Updated: April 2012