Malachite Kingfisher, jewel of Kenya’s streams and marshes. Photo: Brian Finch
The vast expanses of East Africa have long been part of every traveler’s dreams, a land of rolling grasslands dotted with acacia trees, mountains such as Kilimanjaro rising above the limitless horizons, and riverine forests harboring colorful birds and troops of monkeys. Of course the large mammals of the East African plains are readily summoned to mind, and it is a wonderful fact that by visiting Kenya it is still possible to see huge concentrations of animals along with, not incidentally, 500 or more species of birds.
During this tour we’ll visit Nairobi, Tsavo, Amboseli, and Mt. Kenya National Parks and Lakes Baringo and Nakuru, and we’ll end up in the spectacular Masai Mara National Reserve—the Africa of everyone’s imagination.
We’ll also visit the migration station at Ngulia, where under the right conditions thousands of southward-bound Palearctic migrants are attracted to the floodlights that illuminate the waterhole each night.
Day 1: The tour begins at noon in Nairobi. After lunch, we’ll visit Nairobi National Park, where in the rolling acacia grassland we’ll see gazelles, giraffes, and possibly lions, as well as a heady array of birds: Ostrich, Secretary-bird, Bateleur, Rattling Cisticola, Long-tailed Fiscal, and Red-billed Oxpecker among many others. Night in Nairobi.
”A birding genius, Brian Finch was the greatest guide ever! He has a wonderful sense of humor, and we felt so lucky to have these days with him. Thanks to him, to Edwin, and to David, our trip to Kenya was the trip of a lifetime.”
Beth and Paul Loehnen
Days 2-3: After breakfast we’ll drive to Tsavo National Park where we’ll spend two nights at Ngulia Lodge, famous in recent years for the huge numbers of European and Asian migrants that pass through on their way south. The lodge is situated on a dramatic escarpment overlooking the vast expanse of Tsavo stretching out below. At night the lights of the lodge can be seen for miles and attract migrant birds, sometimes in the thousands, depending on the weather and the moon. The morning following such a fall can find the bushes alive with Thrush Nightingales, Marsh Warblers, and Isabelline Shrikes, while careful searching usually reveals splendid male White-throated Robins and Barred, River, Olive-tree, Upcher’s, Olivaceous, and the enigmatic Basra Reed Warblers. Ngulia is also a great place for nightbirds, and during the day European Nightjars roost on the beams in the open-fronted restaurant before joining Plain, Dusky, and Donaldson-Smith’s Nightjars in hawking insects around the lodge. Away from the lodge, large migrating flocks of European Rollers can sometimes be found, often with one sitting on every bush, and the giant baobab trees can hold resting parties of Amur Falcons. Nights at Ngulia Safari Lodge.
Day 4: Today we’ll drive to Amboseli National Park, passing through open bush country with many passerine species. In particular we’ll be looking out for White-headed Mousebird, Bare-eyed Thrush, Black-cheeked Waxbill, and Grosbeak Canary. We may also see the graceful Gerenuk here. We’ll stay at Ol Tukai Lodge on the southeastern side of Amboseli National Park. On clear days, there is an impressive vista, with Mount Kilimanjaro as the dominating backdrop. Colorful Lilac-breasted Rollers nest in the trees, and as dusk falls the car-alarm calls of Slender-tailed Nightjars fill the air. If we are fortunate, the extremely local Taveta Golden Weaver may be in residence, but its presence is directly related to the rains. Night at Ol Tukai Lodge.
Day 5: We’ll spend the day in Amboseli exploring the park’s open plains, lakes, and swamps. There will be an abundance of large mammals—giraffe, zebra, gazelles, Impala, Wildebeest, buffalo, and African Elephant. Birds will also be plentiful and could include Goliath Heron, Hottentot Teal, Gray Crowned-Crane, Two-banded Courser, and Pangani Longclaw. Night at Ol Tukai Lodge.
Day 6: This morning we’ll catch an early flight to Nairobi, connecting to Nanyuki on the slopes of Mt Kenya. Here we’ll be picked up and transfered to Mountain Lodge for lunch. Located in the heart of the Mount Kenya Forest Reserve, the lodge is a superb place, and bird and mammal watching from the rooftop balcony overlooking a water hole is always delightful. Groups of Silvery-cheeked Hornbills and Bronze-naped Pigeons are common, and Crowned Eagles are regularly seen soaring over the trees. From the roof of the lodge we’ll look for Moustached Green Tinkerbird, Waller’s Starling, Rüppell’s Robin-Chat, White-starred Forest-Robin, Mountain Greenbul, Gray-headed Negro-finch, and White-browed Crombec along with many other species. After dark, the waterhole attracts a variety of mammals, among them African Buffalo, Bushbuck, and the occasional Bushpig and Giant Forest Hog. Large Spotted Genet sometimes visits a floodlit feeding station, and if we’re lucky a Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl will be in residence. Night at Mountain Lodge.
Day 7: After a delicious champagne breakfast we’ll set off for the day, joined again by our always marvelous driver from the first part of the trip. Entering Mt. Kenya National Park we’ll climb the steep road to the Met Station, close to treeline, and well into the bamboo zone. This is the habitat for several high-altitude East African and Kenyan endemics; Jackson’s Francolin is probably the most attractive of this large group, which also includes skulking Abyssinian Ground-Thrush and friendly Hill Chats. We’ll also be on the lookout for Mountain Yellow Warbler, Black-headed Waxbill, and several other species found in this rarefied atmosphere. After our picnic we’ll descend, birding on our return to Mountain Lodge. Night at Mountain Lodge.
Day 8: After another morning at Mountain Lodge we’ll drive to Naro Moru River Lodge for lunch. The lodge is located on the lower slopes of Mt. Kenya, and although the forest here is only a remnant patch, birds are numerous. We should see Hartlaub’s Turaco, Crowned Hornbill, African Paradise Flycatcher, and up to eight species of sunbird among many others. Night at Naro Moru River Lodge.
Day 9: Today we’ll drive around the edge of the Aberdare Mountains, stopping at the spectacular Thompson Falls, which sometimes offer the bonus of Slender-billed Chestnut-winged Starlings. We’ll cross the Subukia Valley and drop down into the Great Rift Valley at Nakuru before driving north to Lake Baringo, looking for Dark Chanting-Goshawk and Silverbird along the way. Night at Baringo.
Day 10: Before breakfast we’ll visit nearby cliffs where Cliff Chat nests, and in the scrub along the escarpment’s edge we’ll look for Hemprich’s, Jackson’s, and Yellow-billed Hornbills, Brown-tailed Rock-Chat, and Bristle-crowned Starling. This is also a regular nesting site for a pair of magnificent Verreaux’s Eagles. The rest of the morning will be spent exploring the bird-rich habitats around Lake Baringo. After lunch we’ll drive south to Lake Nakuru National Park, where we’ll spend the next two nights. As we enter the park we’ll catch sight of the lake through its fringe of yellow-barked acacias and get our first glimpses of thousands of pink flamingos. Night at Lion Hill Lodge.
Day 11: We’ll spend the day birding around the lake, world-famous for its vast flocks of flamingos and its wealth of waterbirds. The acacia woodland around the lake is a fine example of this habitat, and we’ll look for such species as Narina Trogon, Red-throated Wryneck, Arrow-marked Babbler, and Red-headed Weaver. Hildebrandt’s Francolin wander the shaded tracks and shy Tambourine Doves hurtle through the undergrowth. There is a good population of White Rhinoceros at Nakuru, and we’ll likely see one or more of these magnificent beasts grazing along the lakeshore. Water levels at the lake vary greatly, but under normal conditions dense flocks of thousands of Lesser Flamingos feed in the shallows, while doughnut-shaped rings of White Pelicans are scattered across the lake. This memorable sight is surely one of the natural wonders of the world. Night at Lion Hill Lodge.
Day 12: We’ll leave early for our drive to Masai Mara National Reserve. The first part of the journey will take us up out of the Rift Valley and through the rich tea-growing region around Kericho. In patches of remnant forest here we’ll look for Black-fronted Bush-shrike, Snowy-headed Robin-Chat, Black-collared Apalis, Banded Prinia, and Abyssinian Crimsonwing among others. Night at Kichwa Tembo Lodge.
Day 13: In many respects, the Mara is the most spectacular part of the trip, with its long views over flat-topped acacias and grassy plains filled with animals. We’ll spend the days driving in the reserve and should see most of the plains species for which East Africa is famous: Lion, Cheetah, Wildebeest, hartebeests, Topi, Thompson’s and Grant’s Gazelles, and many others. Birdwatching here will be delightful, and highlights should include Temminck’s Courser, Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, and, with luck, Black-bellied Bustard. Night at Kichwa Tembo Camp.
Day 14: After a morning in the western Mara, we drive across the reserve to Siana Springs Lodge. Here we’ll have a rare opportunity for a night-time game-and-bird excursion, and we have a chance of meeting some of the more rarely seen fauna such as Civet, Porcupine, or White-tailed Mongoose. Birds could include Dusky and Square-tailed Nightjars, Spotted Thick-knee, and Heuglin’s Courser. Night at Siana Springs Lodge.
Day 15: This morning before breakfast we’ll visit a nearby valley, home to several species that are on the edge of their ranges in Kenya. The attractive pied Magpie Shrike with its liquid call is here, as well as the diminutive Tabora Cisticola. Other species include African Scimitarbill, Flappet Lark, Red-throated Tit, and the colorful Green-winged Pytilia. This afternoon we’ll catch a flight back to Nairobi for our final dinner and connections to flights home.
Updated: 21 February 2008
Prices
- June 18, 2008, departure price about $6,760
- Single Occupancy Supplement $660
- November 12, 2008, departure price about $6,760
- Single Occupancy Supplement $660
Notes
Maximum group size six with one WINGS leader and a driver guide.
Tours to Kenya have more restrictive deposit requirements than is typical for WINGS tours. Deposits become non-refundable 120 days before departure.
A Google map of our overnight locations can be seen here. Click on the placemarks beginning with Placemark 1 to move along the tour route.