Iceland has millions of breeding Common Puffins and a vast array of other seabirds as well. Photo: James Lidster
Lying in the cold, gray waters of the North Atlantic, Iceland is a country that has long fired the imagination of travelers and birdwatchers alike. This is the land of ice and fire and of ancient sagas, where the mighty Gyrfalcon drifts over a dramatic volcanic landscape dotted with glaciers, gushing geysers, hot springs, and mighty waterfalls.
The birdlife is equally dramatic and varied, with such special species as Barrow’s Goldeneye and Harlequin Duck, and the massive spectacle of thousands of breeding alcids and waterfowl and lakes literally covered in Red-necked Phalaropes. In recent years, the waters of western Iceland have become famous as a place to see Blue Whales; although it can never be guaranteed, a boat trip from Ólafsvík offers arguably the best chance of seeing this legendary mammal anywhere in the world.
Day 1: The tour begins mid-afternoon at the Reykjavik airport. If time allows, there will be some afternoon birding at Sandgerði and Garður, where we should see our first Common Eiders and Arctic Terns; the latter may attract a Parasitic Jaeger or two, offering unparalleled views as they give chase to the terns, perhaps with the local Redshanks or Oystercatchers tagging along for good measure! In recent years, a vagrant American Black Duck has taken up residence in this area, and if it has been seen recently we will know about it. There will be chance to look for a White-tailed Eagle on the journey, as well as stopping to enjoy our first Black-tailed Godwits of the islandica race, before driving west to Borgarnes for an overnight stay.
Day 2: We’ll begin the day by searching for that most impressive of raptors, the White-tailed Eagle. Iceland supports a healthy population of this species, and careful scanning of rocky islets should prove successful. Nearby we will scan local mudflats for shorebirds, which will undoubtedly include Dunlin, Ringed Plover, and Common Redshank, all in smart breeding plumage. Later we’ll drive towards the Snæfellsnes peninsula, stopping on the way to admire Horned Grebes in their breeding finery as well as roadside Red-throated Loons. This area holds particularly high numbers of loons, and we should see family groups and be treated to their strange calls. The shallow pools at Rif attract large numbers of gulls, terns, and shorebirds, and we’ll scan through the flocks of Glaucous and Herring Gulls in the hope of finding Iceland Gull, as well as appreciating the variation in some of the local hybrid gulls. The Arctic Terns here are just a small percentage of the nearby breeding colony with more than 30,000 pairs. There will also be a chance to look at shorebirds, with large numbers of Red-necked Phalaropes gathered at Rif, many of which are so close it is impossible to focus the telescope on them as they spin around at our feet. Careful scanning through the flocks of Dunlin may produce a Red Knot, or maybe an American vagrant, few of which haven’t occurred in Iceland. Night at Stykkishólmur.
Day 3: Today we will take a whale-watching trip from Ólafsvík, where we could see Minke Whales and Harbor Porpoises. In some summers, this area plays host to the largest mammal on the planet, the massive Blue Whale; our trip is timed to improve our chances of encountering one of these impressive beasts. Other cetaceans have been recorded here, too, and the possibilities are different from year to year. Seabirds are sure to include Gannet, Fulmar, and flocks of alcids, including numerous Atlantic Puffins; both Great Skua and Parastic Jaeger are also likely. After our whale-watching trip, we may make another visit to the ever-changing flocks at Rif, or maybe check the flocks of Common Eider for the one or two Kings that are often among them. This area is also a great place to find Harlequin Ducks; many males, still in their incredible plumage, will be on the rugged coastlines by now. Night at Stykkishólmur.
Day 4: We’ll depart from Stykkishólmur after breakfast and take the ferry across Breioafjörour Bay towards Brjánslækur. Halfway across we’ll stop on the small island of Flatey, home to one of Europe’s rarest breeding birds, Red Phalarope, which this time of year more than lives up to its colorful name. Due to the ferry schedule, we will stay on the island until early evening, which will give us plenty of time to search for our target and to enjoy the breeding Puffins, Black Guillemots, Red-necked Phalaropes, and Snow Buntings in some beautiful surroundings. We will have lunch on the island and in the evening continue our ferry journey to Brjánslækur. The distant glacier of Snæfellsjokull (the icecap of the nearly 5,000-foot dormant volcano Snæfell) dominates the skyline. Once on the mainland, we’ll transfer to our hotel at Breiðavík for the night.
Day 5: After breakfast we will make a visit to the Látrabjarg bird cliff, one of the world’s largest gatherings of seabirds, where Puffins are close enough to touch and other alcids are common. We’ll take time to examine the subtle differences between Common and Thick-billed Murres and to enjoy the antics of smart-looking Razorbills and dapper Black Guillemots as we watch in awe the spectacle that is a seabird colony. The whole area is a real attack on the senses, and once over the sight of so many birds, with alcids as far as the eye can see, there is the pleasure of hearing—and of course smelling—the seabirds! This site is another photographer’s dream (where in Iceland isn’t?), but by lunchtime we will have to drag ourselves away to follow the winding highland roads, which might produce breeding Purple Sandpiper, Rock Ptarmigan, or, if we are exceptionally lucky, a Snowy Owl. Night near Blönduós.
Day 6: Most of the morning will be spent driving to the famous Lake Mývatn, where we’ll spend the night. Although this is mainly a traveling day, we will look for Iceland Gulls at several locations, as well as Common and Red-throated Loons. The small areas of conifer woodland around here hold breeding Winter Wren, Redwing, and Common Redpoll, each belonging to its own distinct Icelandic race, with the redpoll being especially variable. In some years these areas also support breeding Goldcrest, a recent colonist to the country. One of the real specialties of this area is Pink-footed Goose, and we will make a stop close to the road to admire these birds and maybe their attendant youngsters. Arctic Foxes are secretive animals, and are particularly wary of people having been heavily persecuted in the country, but we will keep our eyes open for any that may have been drawn in by the lure of goslings. There will also be chance to make a stop at Goðafoss waterfall and hopefully to have a scan of the waterfowl close to our hotel. Night near Lake Mývatn.
Day 7: Mývatn, the Lake of Midges, is one of the world’s great birding spots. This shallow lake teems with invertebrate life, which in turn attracts thousands of ducks. Red-breasted Merganser, Eurasian Wigeon, Gadwall, and Tufted Duck are all common here. Greater Scaup are also common and provide a great opportunity to examine the differences between them and their Tufted cousins. Every now and then our attention will be drawn to a Long-tailed Duck with full tail on display or a flock of Common Scoters hiding among the hundreds of diving ducks. Careful scanning may produce a semi-resident American Wigeon, Ring-necked Duck, or a fly-by Merlin of the Icelandic race. The real stars here, though, are the striking Barrow’s Goldeneye and the legendary Gyrfalcon; time spent watching flocks of the goldeneye at one of their only Western Palearctic breeding sites may well lead to an encounter with a gyr. Few things are as exciting in birding as seeing one of these powerful falcons instill panic in the myriads of ducks and waders. The river here is another great area for Harlequin Ducks; although many of the males will already be on the coast, we can watch the females negotiating the white water as if it were easy! This region is also surrounded by stunning scenery, with bubbling mud and sulfur pools, lava fields, and crater all eloquent witnesses to the island’s volcanic past. Night near Lake Mývatn.
Day 8: After breakfast we’ll drive north towards the Dettifoss waterfall, the most powerful and one of the most impressive in Europe, before we continue to the northern coast. In the past few years, a female Steller’s Eider has taken up residence here, and if she is present, we’ll spend time scanning through the flocks of Common Eider. This is an exciting area, within four miles of the Arctic Circle, and the tundra vegetation is home to flocks of Purple Sandpipers; here we have yet another chance of a Gyrfalcon. After lunch we’ll head south to the town of Húsavík, where we will undertake an evening whale-watching trip. The species encountered here may include some from our earlier trip, but these northern waters seem even more to the liking of Minke Whale and White-beaked Dolphin. The scenery around the bay is stunning, and there can be few better settings to enjoy an encounter with a whale, with dramatic snow covered mountains rising steeply from the dark waters of the North Atlantic. On last year’s trip this was also the site of our encounters with Humpback and Blue Whales. Night at Húsavík.
Day 9: Today will be spent driving back south to Reykjavík. Depending on road conditions—in some years, bad weather can make the interior roads very difficult—we hope to drive through the highlands of Iceland. Our dramatic journey cuts between the two huge glaciers of Langjokull and Hofsjokull before passing the sulfur pools at Hveravellir, Gullfoss waterfall, the boiling waters of Geysir, and Þingvellir. Þingvellir is the site of the historical parliament, chosen for its location, acoustics, and topography; it is also one of the best places to view the cracks and fissures caused by the tectonic plates of America and Europe pulling away from each other. Birds may not be plentiful, although we could bump into a ptarmigan or Merlin, but the scenery breathtaking. In the evening there will be the chance for a walk into the capital for our last evening meal. Night in Reykjavík.
Day 10: We’ll spend our last morning on the Reykjanes peninsula, searching for any birds that may have eluded us and keeping an eye open for vagrants before we transfer to Keflavík airport, where the tour concludes.
Updated: 06 May 2008
Prices
- 2008 price about $4,400
- Single Occupancy Supplement $580
Notes
This tour is limited to 14 participants with two leaders. Both leaders will join the tour irrespective of group size.
This tour is organized by our British company, Sunbird.