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WINGS Birding Tours – Itinerary

Finland and Arctic Norway

Saturday 19 May to Saturday 2 June 2007
with Killian Mullarney and Dick Forsman as leaders

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A tundra view in Northern Norway. Photo: Dick Foresman

This remarkable tour runs at absolutely the optimal time, not only to give the best possible chance of finding the northern owls but also to see the excellent line-up of other resident species and summer visitors, many of which are difficult to find elsewhere in Europe. We’ll begin in Finland, land of over 180,000 lakes and the westernmost outskirts of the vast Siberian taiga forest, and many migrant birds will be just arriving at their remote arctic breeding areas although those annoying mosquitoes will not yet be active.

The prevalence of birch and pine forest in Finland might seem monotonous, but the superficial impression belies a subtle and complex beauty, especially where we find patches of old, “untouched’ forest. Thick carpets of colorful mosses and lichens line the forest floor, while beautiful old, gnarled pines lend a magical character to these places; it may seem as if, by entering the forest, we have taken a step back in time.

Farther north still, in fact as far as it is possible to go on the European mainland, we’ll visit the unspoiled Varanger peninsula on the edge of the Barents Sea. Here we’ll experience the full beauty and diversity of arctic birdlife, and there will be opportunities to gain a new perspective on many species infrequently seen away from these latitudes.

The final leg of the tour will be in the south of Finland where we’ll have further chances for uncommon owls and woodpeckers.

Day 1: The tour starts with a flight from London to Helsinki and a connecting flight to Finland’s most northerly airport at Ivalo. Located well north of the Arctic Circle it doesn’t get very dark in Ivalo at this time of the year so, if the weather is good, we may have our first taste of arctic birding before or after dinner. Within a few kilometers of our hotel we have chances of seeing Gray-headed Chickadee (Siberian Tit), Capercaillie, Arctic Loon, Bohemian Waxwing and Smew, while singing Pied Flycatchers and Redstarts will remind us that spring has arrived, even up here! Night in Ivalo.

Day 2: After breakfast, we’ll continue our northward journey, passing through some excellent birding terrain. Made up of a mosaic of taiga forest and bog, the scenery here is very different to anything in the south of the country, and is home to very different birds. We’ll make stops to look at gatherings of Ruff performing their extraordinary lekking routine, while the sight and sound of displaying Temminck’s Stints, Whimbrels, European Golden-Plovers and Rough-legged Hawks will contribute to the distinctly arctic atmosphere. This is where we’ll have further chances of finding Siberian Jays and Gray-headed Chickadees. Both can be elusive at this time of year, but neither is anything like as difficult to find as the ultra-unobtrusive Pine Grosbeak! Night in Tana, just across the Norwegian border.

Days 3-5: After some local birding we’ll head for the famous Varangerfjord, less than an hour’s drive away. At the beginning of the fjord, known as Varangerboten, we should have good views of Velvet Scoters, while among the numerous Common Eiders close inshore we can expect to find small parties of engaging Steller’s Eiders. The shores of Varangerfjord can hold concentrations of waders at this time of year, including Temminck’s Stint, numerous Purple Sandpipers and handsome Bar-tailed Godwits in full breeding plumage. If the migration is early we may see a Little Stint or two, and the first Red-necked Phalaropes should arrive any day. As we continue eastwards towards the open sea we’ll encounter majestic White-tailed Eagles, often very close to the road, waiting for an opportunity to pluck a fish — or more often an unfortunate duck — from the surface. We’ll make several stops to look for King Eiders, while the coast between Vadsö and Vardö is also where we are most likely to find the rare White-billed Diver, most of which are in stunning breeding plumage at this time of year. Three nights in Vardí¸

Day 6: After breakfast we’ll drive slowly back along the fjord, stopping on the way to look for any freshly arrived Red-throated Pipits and Long-tailed Jaegers, and at Nesseby we’ll take a last look at the wonderful Steller’s Eiders. If we can tear ourselves away from the abundance of birds along Varangerfjord we’ll have time to visit the extraordinary low mountain landscape of a more westerly part of peninsula where we’ll look for Rock Ptarmigan and perhaps encounter one or two early-arrived Dotterel. Night in Tana.

Day 7: Driving south, we’ll re-enter forest as we reach Saariselkä and will stop in suitable habitat for special taiga birds such as Broad-billed Sandpiper, Jack Snipe, Gray-headed Chickadee, Siberian Jay, and any owls that might be around. We may also see Dotterel and Rock Ptarmigan in this region. Night in Saariselkä.

Day 8: The vast forests and boglands of Finland are ideal habitat for grouse, and today we’ll have an early start to give us the best possible chance of seeing the giant of them all, the normally rather shy Capercaillie. Black Grouse is a much commoner and more easily seen species, but lekking males are always a beautiful sight. From here on we’ll be availing of every opportunity to see the highly sought-after Hazel Grouse. The “old’ forest near Luosto is a good place to look for Three-toed Woodpecker; if we haven’t already seen any we’ll search for them here. Rustic Buntings are early arrivals and will already be nesting, and we’ll hope to find one or two that are not too skulking. The forests here are as good a place as any to search for Pine Grosbeak, and in good years crossbills may be abundant. Night in Luosto.

Finland and Arctic Norway was absolutely marvelous in every way — from 218 birds to about as flawless logistics as humanly possible. I want to especially give accolades to our leaders who were “one with birds and nature”. They are simply extraordinary leaders. They also have incredible interpersonal skills and complement each other in dealing with people and in attending to every logistical detail of a birding trip.
I had a wonderful time. Thank you so much,

Dianne Toebe, Anchorage, AK

Days 9-10: We’ll visit some of Finland’s finest bogs today as we drive to Kuusamo, close to the Russian border. Along the way we’ll be passing through prime Hawk Owl terrain and if we are lucky we may see one perched on a roadside tree or telegraph pole. On the extensive wetlands we’ll be keeping an eye open for Bean Goose, Smew and Common Crane, all of which breed here.

The forests, bogs and lakes around Kuusamo support a wealth of birdlife including most of the species we hope to see while we are in the north. We may see more Three-toed Woodpeckers, Gray-headed Chickadees, Siberian Jays, Rustic Buntings, and Little Buntings here, and at various bogs we’ll have the opportunity to appreciate the wonderful sight and sound of displaying Little Gulls, and breeding waders such Spotted Redshank, Ruff and possibly Jack Snipe— all looking and sounding very different from the impressions we gain of them on passage and in winter. The steep forested slopes of Valtavaara are usually home to a couple of pairs of Red-flanked Bluetails, and we’ll devote some time and energy to trying to get views of this very special bird. Nights in Kuusamo.

Days 11-12: After a final morning birding around Kuusamo, where we’ll doubtless have time for at least one visit to the town dump, a good place for Larus (fuscus) heuglini (the so called “Siberian Gull’) we’ll drive south to the coastal town of Oulu (pronounced “Oh-loo’, in case you were wondering!). Here we are likely to find some of the most eagerly anticipated of all our target birds, the owls; Great Gray, Ural, Tengmalm’s, Pygmy, and of course Short-eared Owl can all be found here and seeing them will be our highest priority. We’ll see Ortolan Bunting in the agricultural fields, there is a chance of hearing (and maybe even seeing) Corncrake, and this is one of the only places in Finland where it is possible to see Rook! Around Oulu port we’ll look for Terek Sandpiper which, with only around 15 breeding pairs in the whole country, is one of Finland’s (and Europe’s) rarest breeding species. Nights in Oulu.

Days 13-14: We’ll catch an early morning flight from Oulu to Helsinki. After checking into our hotel we’ll visit a small wetland on the outskirts of the city, where among the abundance of commoner waterbirds we’ll see Horned Grebes in their beautiful breeding plumage. Common Rosefinches and Thrush Nightingales will be singing strongly from the surrounding scrub, and if it’s not too windy we’ll have a good chance of seeing Great Reed Warbler. In the afternoon we’ll visit the scenic Porkala peninsula, west of Helsinki, and endeavor to find late migrants, such as Greenish Warbler, Barred Warbler and Red-breasted Flycatcher, while there is a good chance we’ll come across a few Red-backed Shrikes and one or two migrating Honey Buzzards.

We’ll have an early start the following day in the company of the legendary Finnish birdman and forester, Pekka Pouttu. Pekka, who seems to know virtually every bird in his “patch’, has been instrumental in attracting more owls to the area through the provision of nest boxes, which augment natural cavities in trees. In years where owls have been scarce or absent in the north there may be better chances of finding Ural, Pygmy and Tengmalm’s Owls down here, in the south. He may also be able to take us to see Red-breasted Flycatcher or possibly even a Flying Squirrel, a local speciality! Nights in Helsinki.

Day 15: We’ll devote the remainder of our birding time to searching the outskirts of the city for additional late migrants such as Blyth’s Reed, Marsh, Icterine, and River Warblers, several of which can be studied simultaneously. With good birding right up to the end, it will be difficult to drag ourselves away but this we will have to do, in order to catch our flight back to London, where the tour ends.

Updated: 03 August 2006

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Notes

Participants who prefer to meet the group in Helsinki should contact the WINGS office. Maximum group size seven with one leader; 14 with two leaders. This tour is organized by our British company, Sunbird.