Spot-backed Pufflbirds are usually found in pairs. Photo: Anthony Collerton
It’s usually news to even seasoned travelers that Bolivia is a safe and wonderful place for a birding tour. It has the longest-lasting democratically elected government in South America, virtually no violent crime and some of the friendliest people. But it shouldn’t be a surprise that with its amazingly varied habitat, low population density and grand scenery it also is full of birds. About the size of Texas and California together, Bolivia shares much of its huge birdlist with the neighboring countries of Peru, Brazil, and Argentina, but it also contains several endemics and about 100 range-restricted specialties that are more easily found here than anywhere else—and most of them are in the heart of the country between the third- and second-largest cities of Cochabamba and Santa Cruz. On this tour we’ll spend several days becoming accustomed to the middle elevations in the Cochabamba Valley and on the nearby wet slopes before we briefly venture to the high, dry mountains and plains. Then we’ll work our way eastward through valleys full of pepper trees and cactus in the rain-shadowed Valle region and finish restfully at a quiet lodge nestled in a forest-filled valley.
This tour can be taken in conjunction with our tour Amazonian Bolivia: Chalalán Lodge and Madidi National Park.
Day 1: The tour starts this morning on arrival at the El Alto Airport of La Paz. Perhaps a bit lightheaded from the altitude and no doubt groggy from an all-night flight, we’ll nevertheless be jazzed for some exciting birding. We’ll first make the short flight to Cochabamba, where we’ll notice that we’ve dropped to a more reasonable 8500 feet elevation in a seasonally dry agricultural valley. We’ll be met at the airport by our bus and driver for the rest of the trip and head to the hotel for recuperation. But be sure to have your binoculars handy: some of the common species we may see from the car include Chiguanco Thrush, Saffron Finch and Sayaca Tanager. In the afternoon we’ll bird at the nearby marsh-ringed Laguna Alalay near town. We’ll have a chance for several high Andean waterbirds at this outpost, including Many-colored Rush-Tyrant, Wren-like Rushbird, Plumbeous Rail (usually seen), Puna Teal, White-tufted Grebe and Puna Ibis. Surrounded by hills with acacias and cactus, this area will also give us a sneak preview of species typical of the higher-elevation dry valleys, with Creamy-breasted Canastero, Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant, White-tipped Plantcutter and Blue-and-yellow Tanager among the possibilities. Night in Cochabamba.
Days 2-3: On the second day we’ll begin our birding in earnest and in a habitat so different as to shock our senses. After just an hour’s drive from the hotel in the city we’ll find ourselves descending through lush cloud forest where tree ferns, dense mossy thickets, wild fuchsias and native nasturtiums indicate the near constant moistness and coolness of the climate. This is the Chapare region, where the main road connecting Cochabamba to the tropical lowlands drops gradually from about 10,000 to only 1000 feet, the climate becoming more and more tropical as one descends. And as the temperature varies with the elevation, so does the habitat and therefore the birds. With virtually every turn in the road (and a couple seldom-traveled side roads) holding untold surprises, we’ll stop frequently to make the most of the birdable weather and elevational gradient. At the lower elevations we’ll dip into the range of many tropical foothill species such as Scaled Antpitta, Amazonian Umbrellabird, Fulvous-breasted Flatbill, Bolivian Tapaculo, Upland Antshrike and the spectacular Orange-eared Tanager. In the middle elevations, home to many birds that like moss-covered branches, we may see the exquisite Green-throated Tanager, the near-endemic Yungas Tody-Tyrant, Blue-banded Toucanet, Unadorned Flycatcher, Crested Quetzal and Violet-fronted Brilliant. A stop to check the boulders of rushing creeks could yield Torrent Duck or White-capped Dipper. The dwarfed forest of the highest, temperate elevations has yet another suite of species. Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant is common along the edges while Trilling Tapaculo is often heard in the undergrowth and Glossy-black Thrush from the trees. Bolivian Tyrannulet, Deep-blue Flowerpiercer and Scaly-naped Parrot are seen here regularly, and the rare but distinctly possible Hooded Mountain-Toucan and Chestnut-crested Cotinga are a couple of the most sought-after birds at this elevation. Right at treeline is a densely vegetated moist canyon where the birding can be very exciting. If we arrive before first light, when the distinctive call notes of the Yungas Redbelly Toad echo in the canyon, we may be lucky enough to see Swallow-tailed Nightjar, and even during the day Yungas Pygmy-Owl is a good possibility. Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Three-striped Hemispingus and Spectacled Redstart populate the hyperactive mixed flocks here, while other specialties include the endemic Black-throated Thistletail, Light-crowned Spinetail, Puna Tapaculo, Crowned (Peruvian) Chat-Tyrant and Stripe-faced Wood-Quail. Among the many hummingbird possibilities here are Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Great Sapphirewing and Scaled Metaltail. Along this one road we’ll see upward of 150 species (not including any waterbirds) and in the process acclimate ourselves to the elevation of Cochabamba in preparation for the next few days. Nights in Cochabamba.
Days 4-5: Very close to the city of Cochabamba is a small national park that provides access to some habitats very different from what we will have seen so far. After passing through a town with birdy hedges, fields and eucalyptus rows, the road climbs a narrow, steep valley where, starting at about 9000 feet, the lower rocky slopes are covered in a desert-like vegetation, including cold-adapted columnar cacti with furry stems and terrestrial bromeliads. Rock Earthcreeper, Gray-hooded Parakeet, Brown-backed Mockingbird and Giant Hummingbird prefer this habitat, while in the moister draws several shrubs such as Multisia and snapdragon relatives provide an abundance of nectar for other exciting hummingbirds, including the common Red-tailed Comet and Sparkling Violet-ear as well as the rarer and extremely range-restricted Wedge-tailed Hillstar. As we drive a little higher up the road, it becomes moister and cooler, and remnant patches of Polylepis, a uniquely Andean rose relative with red, peeling bark, will beckon us to stop. The local Fulvous-headed Brush-Finch, Tawny Tit-Spinetail, Andean Parakeet, Giant Conebill and Cochabamba Mountain-Finch, one of the most range-restricted endemics in the country, are all possibilities. The final habitat begins above 13,000 feet where the sky opens up and a dry, tundra-like short-grass habitat dominates, with spectacular rocky domes looming in the distance. At the base of one boulder field the rare Short-billed Finch is a highly sought-after specialty. But anywhere on the llama-grazed, open slopes on up to 15,000 feet (where we’ll notice a distinct but exhilarating breathlessness from even short walks during our brief stop at this elevation) we could see White-winged Diuca-Finch, Taczanowski’s and Puna Ground-Tyrants, Cordilleran Canastero, Plain-breasted Earthcreeper and Slender-billed Miner. A vigilant eye on the sky at any elevation could yield Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle and Andean Condor. We’ll give ourselves two full days to cover this area in order to cover all the habitats thoroughly. Nights in Cochabamba.
Day 6: Today we’ll drive westward, up out of the Cochabamba Valley, while staying in the dry rain shadow of the Andes. We’ll cross over a divide of 15,000 feet and then gradually drop down to a very broad, mostly flat inter-Andean valley known as the Altiplano at 12,200 feet. Along the way we’ll make stops at brushy ravines and scrubby slopes, where several new birds and some unique high-elevation lizards await us. Bolivian Blackbird can be found right on the outskirts of Cochabamba but we’ll have to drive farther before we start seeing the likes of Rufous-webbed Tyrant and Rufous-banded Miner. At one patch of Polylepis our past tours have recorded the local Maquis Canastero as well as Aplomado Falcon, Giant Conebill, Black Siskin and Mourning Sierra-Finch. Once on the Altiplano we’ll look at marshy areas next to the road where we might find our first flamingoes even before we check in to our hotel. Night in Oruro.
Day 7: The amount of water in the nearby Lago Uru Uru can vary widely, depending on the previous year’s rainy season, and we may have to drive around to find concentrations of birds. But most years we find Andean Avocets, Andean Geese, Puna Teal and all three species of flamingoes—Puna, Andean and Chilean—just outside town. The dry mudflats are home to Puna Plover while the scrubby hillside vegetation can hold brightly colored Puna Yellow-Finch, Mountain Parakeet and Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail. The flat grass plains north of town sometimes have Vicuña, a wild member of the camel family, and checking another nearby lake could bring us Silvery Grebe, Puna Ibis, Golden-spotted and Black-winged Ground-Doves and Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch. In the afternoon we’ll retrace the drive back to Cochabamba. Night in Cochabamba.
Day 8: Today is reserved for the long drive eastward and down in elevation through magnificent vistas of inter-Andean valleys. We will certainly take some breaks to look for some hard-to-find birds that are possible along this route, including Citron-headed Yellow-Finch, Rufous-bellied Saltator and Thick-billed Siskin. Later in the day we’ll pass through wet cloud forest, usually enshrouded in fog this time of day. But stops will be irresistible, and we’ll try our luck for the likes of Black-hooded Sunbeam, Red-crested Cotinga, Rufous Antpitta and Rufous-capped Thornbill. Night in Comarapa.
Days 9-10: Two full days in the Valle Zone should give us plenty of time to pry out the birds found in this uniquely Bolivian ecoregion. In some respects it is much like the deciduous thorn forests of Mexico, but here in the South American tropics the species makeup is very different. Pepper trees dominate in many areas, and the columnar cacti, while equally prominent, belong to different genera than those of Mexico. And even though some of the plants may be familiar, such as Hopbush and Yellow Trumpetbush, the birds are wildly different. The most spectacular endemic bird here is the Red-fronted Macaw, and we will make finding it a priority. Also endemic is the Cliff Parakeet, still officially considered a subspecies of Monk Parakeet, differing not only in its paler plumage and its call notes but also in its unique nests in cliff crevices and nooks rather than stick nests in trees. Additional endemics and regional specialties here include Giant Antshrike, Bolivian Earthcreeper, Bolivian Warbling-Finch, Olive-crowned Crescent-chest and Cream-backed Woodpecker. We’ll also have a chance to return once more to the cloud forest in an area called the Serranía de Siberia, but it isn’t ever really as cold as its namesake. Here the endemic Rufous-faced Antpitta is quite common (though never easy to see) and some of the other forest inhabitants include Andean Guan, Black-winged Parrot, Violet-throated Starfrontlet, Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Golden-headed Quetzal, Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant, Buff-banded Tyrannulet, Pale-footed Swallow, Pale-legged Warbler and Gray-bellied Flowerpiercer. In the unlikely event that the cloud forest is sunny bird activity could be quite low, but that’s when large numbers of butterflies populate the air. Nights in Comarapa.
Day 11: We may depart early this morning in order to bird a side road toward the town of Tierrasnuevas. If we’re lucky we could see the Tucuman Parrot at the northernmost limit of its range here; we’ve seen it every time since our first visit. Other notable species we’ve recorded here include Golden-winged Cacique, White-throated Antpitta, Spot-breasted Thornbird and Giant Antshrike, and we may even see Red-faced Guan. We’ll end the afternoon with the unique drive down into the deep gorge of Refugio Los Volcanes. Night at Refugio Los Volcanes.
Days 12-13: The privately owned nature preserve Refugio Los Volcanes is situated in an idyllic isolated valley at the edge of Amboró National Park. We’ll use our two and a half days here to bird the forested preserve at a relaxed pace. One trail crosses a meandering rocky stream where Blue-throated Piping-Guan and Sunbittern are often seen. Gray-throated Leaftosser may be found working over the leaf litter, and Blue-naped Chlorophonias are possible in fruiting trees. Another trail takes us to a scenic waterfall and deep swimming hole while a third leads up a narrow canyon that almost always has some active feeding flocks. The unusual endemic Bolivian Recurvebill is sighted regularly here, and some of the many flock members along this trail include Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner, Ocellated and Black-banded Woodcreepers, Black-capped Antwren, Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant and Black-goggled Tanager. We’ll also bird the entrance road in search of the attractive Chestnut-backed Antshrike, White-winged Tanager, White-bellied Pygmy-Tyrant and the elusive Slaty Gnateater. If we’re very lucky we’ll see the secretive Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail, Short-tailed Antthrush or Gray Tinamou. Time spent relaxing around the buildings could also be productive: a fruiting tree at the edge of the clearing could host a bonanza of species such as Cinereous Conebill, Blue-browed Tanager and Pale-vented Pigeon (or maybe a troop of Brown Capuchins), while a watchful eye on the sky in the late morning might spot Andean Condor, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle, Solitary Eagle or even Military Macaw. Channel-billed Toucan and Bat Falcon perch on exposed snags while noisy flocks of Green-cheeked and Mitred Parakeets are commonplace. Because the habitat is more tropical here, the presence of butterflies will be more obvious here than elsewhere. Dazzling blue morphos and somber satyrs dance along the trails and forest edge, and several species of diaphanous clearwings flirt in the shadows of the forest understory. This will also be our best chance to see some interesting reptiles and amphibians. Since we are located in the middle of the excellent habitat, some night birding will be possible. Rufescent Screech-Owl is one of the area’s specialties, but we’ve discovered that the long-presumed Spectacled Owls near the rooms are in fact the much rarer Band-bellied Owl, while Ocellated Poorwill is here at the southern edge of its range. Nights at Refugio Los Volcanes.
Day 14: After a final half-day at Refugio Los Volcanes we’ll work our way out of the foothills toward Santa Cruz with a stop or two along the way. Roadside birds could include Spot-backed Puffbird, Campo Flicker, Guira Cuckoo and Chestnut-fronted Macaw. Night in Santa Cruz.
Day 15: The tour concludes this morning at the international airport..
Participants continuing on the Chalalán Lodge tour will make a connecting flight to La Paz.
Updated: 15 April 2006
Prices
- * 2006 price about $4,000
- Single Occupancy Supplement $410
Notes
* The 2006 Central Bolivia: Specialties of the Andes and Valle Zone tour price and single occupancy supplement, correctly noted above, have been changed since the publication of the 2006 WINGS catalog. Maximum group size is seven participants with one leader.