Fischer’s Lovebirds live up to their name in Tanzania. Photo: Stanley Doctor.
While neighboring Kenya has deservedly been recognized as one of the best birding destinations on the planet, Tanzania is now fast on its heels. Considerably larger, it encompasses a fine variety of habitats, many shared with adjacent countries, but it almost wholly contains the Eastern Arc mountain range. This range of hills is now regarded as the continent’s most important biological hotspot.
Starting on the balmy tropical coast, we’ll look for a number of local species before setting off for Mikumi National Park, whose mixture of acacia and miombo woodlands is usually associated with regions farther to the south. In the open floodplains we may see a rich mammal fauna including Elephant, Zebra, Giraffe and maybe Lion, and we’ll search out some of the miombo bird specialties.
From here we’ll descend to the warmer lowlands of Ifakara on the lazy winding Kilombero River. We’ll look for the three Kilombero bird endemics and perhaps also find a few species at their northern limits of distribution. Next we’ll explore the nearby forest slopes of the Ndzungwa National Park, where we hope to find Rufous-winged Sunbird and perhaps Lesser Seedcracker skulking among the lush lowland forest vegetation.
Retracing our steps we’ll visit the Ulugurus for the remarkable Uluguru Bush-Shrike, duetting Moreau’s Warbler and the more numerous Moreau’s Sunbird. The richest center for endemism is found in the East and West Usambaras, where we’ll spend nearly a week looking for such specialties and should encounter a number of the region’s endemic reptile and butterfly fauna as well.
Departing the Eastern Arc we’ll visit some semi-arid acacia bushland, rich in Somalian arid species, eventually arriving at Arusha, the business capital of the country. If time permits, we’ll investigate Lake Duluti, an attractive crater lake. Our final day will be spent in the incomparable Ngorongoro Crater among the rich mammal fauna, including Black Rhinoceros, Spotted Hyena, antelopes of many species and of course Lion and Cheetah. This tour is designed to find the bird specialties of Tanzania and thus does not visit the better-known Serengeti National Park. Nevertheless we can expect an excellent variety of mammal species.
Day 1: The tour begins this morning in Dar es Salaam. After lunch we’ll investigate coastal areas not far from the city for waders and terns, possibly including stately Crab Plover. Dimorphic Egrets fish in the creeks and the diminutive Saunder’s Tern chitters from the sandbanks. Night in Dar es Salaam.
Day 2: We’ll have another short excursion along the shore before breakfast, perhaps locating a Mangrove Kingfisher or seeing Fish-Eagles catching their breakfasts offshore. After our own breakfast we’ll depart for Mikumi National Park, driving alongside freshwater swamps with dancing orange-red Zanzibar Bishops and African Jacanas striding over the lily pads. After Morogoro we’ll enter the wooded savannas of Mikumi National Park. Elephant and Zebra can be seen from the road, as well as glistening Superb Starlings and sentinel Brown-headed Parrots. Night at Mikumi.
Day 3: After an early breakfast sure to feature many wildlife distractions we’ll search the surrounding acacia and miombo woodland and the grassy plains for Dickinson’s Kestrel, usually associated with Borassus Palms. If there are small fires, we may see the splendid pink Northern Carmine Bee-eaters dance around the flames. Speckle-throated Woodpeckers tap the timber for tasty hidden morsels, Stierling’s Barred Warblers sing like crickets from the tops of acacias and Yellow-throated Petronias wag their tails. In the afternoon we’ll head out again, maybe finding the long-crested green and crimson Livingstone’s Turaco, the smart white-capped Arnott’s Chat and, if we are most fortunate, Broad-tailed Paradise Whydah. Later we’ll drive to the Udzungwa Mountains, arriving late in the evening. Night at a lodge in the Udzungwa Mountains.
Day 4: This morning we’ll bird in the forest of the lower part of the Udzungwa National Park, and climbing as high as the waterfall we may be fortunate enough to find the endemic Rufous-winged Sunbird, the hyperactive Livingstone’s Flycatcher at the northern edge of its range, possibly the skulking Lesser Seedcracker, and more common species include “bonking” Green Barbet, the explosive Square-tailed Drongo, and Dark-backed Weaver. We’ll return for lunch at our lodge before driving down to Ifakara for the afternoon. It is here, just over ten years ago, that three new species were discovered: Kilombero Weaver, common in the floodplain, and two cisticolas still awaiting description but known as Kilombero and White-tailed. All three species are numerous and should not be difficult to find. Not so easy to see are the morose booming Coppery-tailed Coucals at their northernmost range and strident and argumentative White-headed Plovers. We could also see Red-necked, secretive Marsh Tchagra, attractive Zebra Waxbill and a wide variety of marshland species. Night at a lodge in the Udzungwa Mountains.
Day 5: Today we’ll drive to the Uluguru Mountains, passing through the Mikumi National Park on the highway towards Morogoro town. From Morogoro, we’ll take a winding road into the Uluguru Mountains, arriving at the Uluguru Mountains Agricultural Research Hostel near Tegetero, the starting point of our hike into the Ulugurus. The hostel is basic but with clean shared toilets and shower rooms and delicious fresh food.
Day 6: From our hostel we can see the towering Uluguru Mountains and their highest point, Mt. Alia. We’ll depart for a full day in the Ulugurus, driving some of the way and then walking uphill to reach the forest. Species we’ll be hoping for include the endemic Moreau’s Warbler with its musical duet, the nectar-loving Loveridge’s Sunbird and local species such as Olive-flanked Robin-Chat. African Tailorbird and the very local Bertram’s Weaver are also possible. We’ll return to a hotel in Morogoro for the night.
Day 7: Leaving Morogoro we’ll drive north to Amani in the East Usambaras for a short stay. Rainfall is plentiful here because of the proximity to the coast and as a result the vegetation is luxuriant. On the way we may see striking pied Palm-nut Vultures and fiery Black-winged Red Bishops. Soon the lowlands give way to these impressive mountains, and we’ll climb into lush forest, leaving the aridity behind us. Before the major ascent we’ll stop at a bridge, where a short look could reward us with a watchful Half-collared Kingfisher. Night near Amani.
Days 8-9: Exploring the forest patches surrounding the tea plantations, we’ll be on the lookout for Long-billed Apalis, a dowdy warbler but one of Africa’s rarest species; the crimson-naped Fischer’s Turaco, a noisy but colorful inhabitant of the canopy; yodeling Green-headed Orioles; shadow-loving Sharpe’s Akalat; the endemic Banded Green Sunbird; and Usambara Hyliota, a strange bird whose affinities are not well understood. After dinner one night we’ll look for Usambara Nightjar and Usambara Eagle-Owl, and this walk may reward us as well with some locally endemic reptiles. Other birds may include the very distinct eastern “form” of Pale-breasted Illadopsis, almost certainly a species in its own right, and Uluguru Violet-backed Sunbird, which is often in the garden where we will be staying, but we would be fortunate indeed to see Dappled Mountain Robin. Nights near Amani.
Day 10: Descending briefly into the dry lowlands, we’ll climb again, this time to the cool of the West Usambaras for a three-day stay. White-necked Ravens should be along the roadside and radiant Lilac-breasted Rollers find perches on the flowering heads of sisals. As we enter through the rocky gorge we’ll keep an eye open for Striped Pipit and more colorful Cliff Chat. The waterfall that tumbles down this rugged landscape can attract many birds, especially if there is a good crop of corn nearby. Our beautiful hotel is an ideally located home-away-from-home. The spacious Old World rooms are comfortable, and the home-cooked food is delicious. Night in Lushoto.
Days 11-12: Over the next two days we’ll explore the local forest in search of its two endemics, Usambara Akalat and the attractive Usambara Weaver, which clambers over the epiphyte-laden branches in the manner of a nuthatch. Other species here include Hartlaub’s Turaco at the southern end of its distribution, noisy but well-hidden Evergreen Forest and Cinnamon Bracken Warblers, piping Black-fronted Bush-Shrike and the unusual Spot-throat, whose earsplitting song is reminiscent of a Blackcap on steroids. Colobus Monkeys give their motor-like calls at dawn shortly after the African Wood-Owls have retired. Nights in Lushoto.
Day 13: Leaving the Eastern Arc Mountains we’ll proceed to Arusha for an overnight stay. Patches of semi-arid acacia along the way may reveal species at the extreme southern edge of their range, such as the statuesque Buff-crested Bustard, the squeaky Pink-breasted Lark, the diminutive Pygmy Batis and the colorful Somali Golden-breasted Bunting. As we near Moshi, Mt. Kilimanjaro may clear itself of its misty shroud and grant us a fine view … however, this is a very unpredictable mountain. Night in Arusha.
Day 14: This morning we’ll have an optional pre-breakfast walk around Duluti, a crater lake overlooked by our lodge. The entire lake is surrounded by forest and is home to several interesting species: African Broadbill, which has a strange display involving a mechanical vibrating noise, although no one yet knows how the sound is produced or what part of the bird vibrates; nasal and scolding Gray-olive Greenbul; and fidgeting Black-throated Wattle-eye. On the lake we may see Long-tailed Cormorant, African Fish-Eagle or the impressive Giant Kingfisher.
After breakfast, we’ll cross the Great Rift Valley to the famous Ngorongoro Crater Highlands and on to the thorn scrub, wooded habitat and soda lakes around Ndutu where the Fischers’s Lovebirds and endemic Grey breasted Spurfowl are a possibility. Bush birds such as Blue-capped Cordon-bleu, Green-winged Pytilia, Beautiful Sunbird, White-crowned Shrike and Slate-colored Boubou are common. Night at Ndutu Lodge.
Day 15: After an early breakfast, we’ll depart Ndutu for the floor of Ngorongoro Crater, where the abundant wildlife still includes a few ponderous Black Rhinoceros, a swimming pool full of Hippopotamus, Lions lazing under the tattered bushes on the golden plain, and a variety of plains game everywhere. Birds also abound, from diminutive Pectoral-patch Cisticolas to Ostrich. The swamps attract a variety of waterfowl, including the curious Cape Wigeon, and a ribbon of soda-loving Lesser Flamingos paints a swath of vivid rose around the central lake. White and Abdim’s Storks scour the grassland for grasshoppers, African Marsh-Harrier and Great Sparrowhawk hunt for small birds, and every corner holds something of interest. After a picnic lunch, we’ll ascend the crater walls into the forest around the rim, looking out for the silky-crested Schalow’s Turaco, regally dressed Golden-winged Sunbird, and inquisitive-looking Montane White-eye. Our lodge is situated near the rim, surrounded by lush montane vegetation. Night at Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.
Day 16: This morning we’ll wind our way back toward Arusha, pausing for anything of interest. Along the way, we’ll take a detour to look for the endemic Beesley’s Lark, found in very arid plains at the northern base of Mount Meru. Also here we’ll be on the lookout for two other uncommon lark species, the Athi Short-toed and the Short-tailed. Around midday we’ll return to Arusha. Once in town we’ll have lunch and the afternoon will be available for packing and perhaps last minute shopping before setting off for Kilimanjaro International Airport and the return.
Updated: 28 February 2008
Prices
- 2008 price about $6,250
- Single Occupancy Supplement $350
Notes
This tour is limited to six participants with one leader.