2008 Tour Narrative
In Brief: Where to begin? Our incredible November 2008 tour saw seven species of penguins (four of them endemic to the region) and 41 species of tubenoses (31 on a single day!), including the legendary Magenta Petrel. But numbers in lists aren’t everything, and the mesmerizing Southern Ocean, dotted with islands of biodiversity has to be seen to be believed: from lush swaths of megaherbs to a point-blank pod of hunting Killer Whales, from sunny zodiac cruises along the cliffs at the remote Antipodes and Bounty islands, from puzzling over prion identification to the majesty of Southern Royal Albatrosses on their nests, from New Zealand Pipits walking over your shoes to White-faced Storm-Petrels skipping over the waves. And all of this while we were based on a comfortable ship with great food and a staff intent on sharing their sense of wonder and appreciation for this unique heritage. Life doesn’t get any better than this!
In Detail: After a visit to the museum in Invercargill, with its fine displays about the Sub-Antarctic islands, we boarded the Spirit of Enderby, pulling away from the dock at 12:15. Passing out of the harbor we saw four species of shags, and then it was into the realm of the albatrosses and petrels as we headed across the Foveaux Strait and south along the east side of Stewart Island. The wind was fresh, but the sea wasn’t too rough. Birds included Auckland Shy, Salvin’s, and Southern Royal Albatrosses, Broad-billed and Fairy Prions, thousands of Sooty Shearwaters, lots of Common Diving Petrels, and a number of striking Mottled Petrels. Leaving the lee of Stewart Island the seas picked up and the night was rather rolling.
In heaving swell And whipping spray We pass into the night
Where dreams propel Our minds to play Ere dawn will bring new light
The next day we arrived at the Snares in a gray and foggy dawn with rolling seas. Fortunately, the seas dropped a little and the sun even came out, making for some beautiful views of the wildlife and the islands. Zodiac cruises along the shore produced the endemic Snares Tomtit and Snares Fernbird, as well as distinctive “Brown” Skuas and “Antarctic” Terns, but the highlight was undoubtedly point-blank views of the numerous Snares Crested Penguins. We also enjoyed close-up views of New Zealand Furseals and Hooker’s Sealions before returning to the ship for lunch. The afternoon at sea was unusual in that we could enjoy it from the bow, as the seas rolled and the wind whipped around, with albatrosses and petrels in all directions. Thousands of prions (of at least four species, identified courtesy of digital photography) were a highlight as they passed close by at the bow, plus eight species of albatrosses, our first Black-bellied and Gray-backed Storm-Petrels, a Subantarctic Little Shearwater or two, and more Mottled Petrels.
The next day we awoke anchored off Sandy Bay at Enderby Island, in the north of the Auckland Islands group. After breakfast we had the chance to spend all day ashore, with either a short walk across the island or a longer walk around the island. Both options produced all of the island specialties, and the howling gale and rain gave us an appreciation for the true character of the southern islands. At the cliffs above the nesting Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses it was hard not to be blown over, as gusts of 50+ knots pounded the coast and sent waterfalls towering into the air as whirling spouts. In mid-afternoon the weather lifted a little and the sun came out, changing Sandy Bay into a postcard scene, as male Hooker’s Sealions jousted on the beach, pipits and redpolls hopped on the sand, and skuas and giant petrels wheeled overhead. A hot shower back on board felt good, and all enjoyed a fine dinner before a well-earned sleep. Overnight we transited south within the Auckland Islands to Carnley Harbor. We took zodiac rides up some of the inlets and past Figure-of-Eight Island, with Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses wheeling overhead as cloud shadows scudded across the green, Rata-forested slopes. The wind still whipped up the “sheltered” coves and it was nice to get back to the ship’s warmth after a refreshingly cool but spectacular ride. Out at sea we headed southwest towards Macquarie Island, with impressive seas breaking over the bow and albatrosses and petrels all around. Good numbers of White-headed Petrels were a highlight, plus a few Gibson’s [Wandering] Albatrosses, Antarctic Prions, and a small pod of Pilot Whales.
We crossed into Australian waters just before breakfast on Day Six. The weather had calmed slightly overnight, with the wind switching to northwest, making for a much easier ride. Rain and mist came and went (isn’t Australia supposed to be hot and sunny?), and birds was seen throughout the day included Wandering, Southern Royal, Campbell, Gray-headed, and Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses, good numbers of Mottled and White-headed Petrels, the usual suite of challenging prions, and Wilson’s, Gray-backed, and Black-bellied Storm-Petrels.
Given that we had received “not the best weather forecast in the world,” we did a full day on Macquarie Island, with landings at the ANARE base at Buckles Bay in the morning and at the spectacular penguin colonies at Sandy Bay in the afternoon. Cloud and drizzle at dawn gave way to stunning sunny weather, leaving a dusting of snow on the peaks and slopes. The wind was still cold, however, reminding us that we were in the Sub-Antarctic. The warm hospitality of our Australian hosts was much appreciated, and after a tour of the base and a great Gentoo Penguin colony we headed down the coast, with lunch on board, to Sandy Bay. There’s no way to really describe the magic of a beach swarming with penguins, skuas, giant petrels, and elephant seals: thousands of King Penguns with young in various stages of woolly brown plumage, masses of handsome Royal Penguins with their macaroni head plumes, bold skuas underfoot, white Southern Giant Petrels wheeling against the green slopes, medusa tresses of lush kelp pulsing in sapphire-blue waters, and the snorting of huge Southern Elephant Seals are some of the memories. A hot shower and dinner back on board felt great after an amazing day at this remote outpost.
The weather changed dramatically overnight, and we awoke to gusting winds whipping the sea into driving mist, with occasional snow flurries. After cruising south to view the island’s eastern coastline and the large colony of King Penguins at Lusitania Bay, we headed towards Campbell Island in rolling seas. A steady progression of birds included some nice Blue Petrels among swarms of prions, good numbers of Mottled Petrels, and 6 albatross species.
We re-entered New Zealand waters at about 7:00 the next morning, the start to a pleasant day with constant birds; it was wonderful to be out on the bow to watch prions and albatrosses. Highlights included Wandering (Gibson’s/Snowy) and Southern Royal albatrosses, numbers of handsome White-headed Petrels, Sooty and Short-tailed Shearwaters, and steady prions that included an apparent Salvin’s Prion.
We arrived in the sheltered waters of Campbell Island’s Perseverance Harbor in the early hours and awoke to icy winds and driving snow squalls. Conditions improved, though, and an incredible day was spent exploring the tussock slopes and cliff overlooks of Campbell Island, home to most of the world’s nesting Southern Royal Albatrosses. Besides close encounters with albatrosses, we also saw the endemic shag, Antarctic Terns, confiding New Zealand Pipits, and even Dunnocks (which, in 10,000 years or so, may become the endemic Campbell Island Accentor?). It was a little early in the season for flowering megaherbs, though, which probably reflected the cold and late spring being experienced this year throughout New Zealand.
Unruly tussock hair Combed by biting claw Of whipping howling air So cold, and clear, and raw
As scudding shadows blanket out Slopes sunny golden green And snow flakes rout Our universe Compress it to a dream
Mascara-rimmed Inscrutable Unblinking inkwell pools Watch over all Unknowable The eyes of one who rules
Presiding here A world apart The albatross is king Our spirits sing To be a part Of Campbell in the spring
We spent Day Eleven at sea heading towards Antipodes Island, with a good variety of birds throughout the day and our first Antipodean Albatrosses in late afternoon. Seven species of albatrosses and four species of prions provided a contrast in size and identification challenges—the latter were resolved courtesy of digital photos. Three first-year Antarctic Terns out at sea were noteworthy – did they come from Campbell or Antipodes or …?
The next day started about 50 nautical miles west-southwest of the Antipodes, and bird numbers kept building as we approached this remote and imposing island outpost—at the other end (or foot?) of the earth from England. Silvery blizzards of prions heralded our arrival at the island, which was, most atypically, bathed by sunlight under beautiful blue skies. Sea conditions allowed us to anchor, and after lunch we took spectacular zodiac cruises under the imposing volcanic cliffs, where Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses wheeled over sunny tussocks and parakeets perched in good view. Groups of Erect-crested and Rockhopper Penguins dotted the rocks, where furseals lounged and pipits foraged above the lush kelp beds. Good numbers of seabirds continued in late afternoon as we headed north, with lots of Black-bellied Storm-Petrels plus Black-browed, Campbell, and Gray-headed Albatrosses around the ship.
Dawn found us at the Bounty Islands, a remote and rarely visited group of bleak rocks teeming with birds and furseals. Sea conditions allowed us to make zodiac cruises around some of the rocks, for up-close views of Erect-crested Penguins, thousands of nesting Salvin’s Albatrosses, hundreds of New Zealand Furseals and Fulmar Prions, and a surprise European Starling, gathering nest material! These rocks are also home to one of the rarest shags in the world, the Bounty Island Shag, and we enjoyed great views of this handsome bird. In late morning we set course towards the Chatham Islands, and the sea conditions made it very pleasant outside, with great views of prions, Little Shearwaters, and a selection of albatrosses around the ship.
Day Fourteen was at sea heading towards the Chatham Islands, then ending with an evening circuit of the spectacular Pyramid Rock, home to virtually the entire world population of Chatham Albatross. The potential tubenose diversity on this day—more than 40 species are possible—has to be the best in the world, as we cross from sub-Antarctic to subtropical waters. Being outside from dawn to dusk made for a full and rewarding day. We had seen 20+ species of tubenose before breakfast, and 31 species were logged by day’s end, including 10 albatrosses, 4 prions, and a fest of gadfly petrels. Gray-faced [Great-winged], Mottled, and Soft-plumaged Petrels were the main species seen, but an early morning Chatham Petrel was seen by two of us, and after breakfast a Magenta Petrel made a close pass; for those who missed the first pass, a second appearance in the wake was met with cries of relief. Perhaps the rarest sighting of the day, however, was a male European Starling way out at sea, shortly after the Magenta Petrel! Late in the day the Chatham Islands appeared on the horizon, and after dinner we passed close by Pyramid Rock for our first real sunset of the trip, before heading into the lee of Pitt Island and our anchorage for the night.
During breakfast we moved over to Southeast Island, where in spite of the wind we were able to make zodiac cruises along the somewhat sheltered shore of this lush and rat-free island, home to the handsome and sought-after Shore Plover. Other highlights included Chatham Oystercatcher, Red-crowned Parakeets and Tuis flying among the trees, nesting White-fronted Terns chasing Brown Skuas, and nesting Pitt Shags in spectacularly pitted rock faces supporting lush “hanging gardens.” The rest of the day was spent cruising in a relaxed manner around the islands to end up anchored off Waitangi for the night. Some Chatham Island Shags were seen flying around the ship, plus Northern Buller’s Albatrosses, thousands of prions, scattered White-faced Storm-Petrels, and a spectacular evening pod of Killer Whales. “Just another amazing day!” The day had been warm and sunny, and the wind dropped for a calm evening and stunning sunset.
After two weeks of visiting mostly remote and pristine islands the pastoral green and human habitation of Chatham Island came as a bit of a shock to the system—Skylarks singing everywhere, and little land untouched by humans. We drove south to the Tuku Reserve (where the Magenta Petrel maintains its breeding toehold) and the Awatotara Valley, where walks into native and re-vegetated forest habitats gave us a taste of what once was, and of what can be done with some foresight and commitment to conservation. The huge and spectacular Chatham Island Pigeon was found easily, and we also saw Red-crowned Parakeets, Chatham Gerygones, and Gray Fantails, along with introduced Wekas, Chaffinches, and House Sparrows. After an opportunity to walk around the town of Waitangi and enjoy some drinks at the hotel, we headed back to the ship and out to sea for our transit back to the South Island. Birds at sea included Northern Royal Albatrosses, thousands of prions, and numerous White-faced Storm-Petrels.
Day Seventeen was spent at sea, heading towards the “mainland.” The rather rolling and bumpy day reminded us that we were in the southern seas and the roaring forties. Winds increased to gale force in the afternoon, and birds (or perhaps birders?) were relatively few, given the whipping salt spray, mountainous waves, and sun glare through wave-splashed bridge windows. Still, any day with 6 species of albatrosses can’t be bad, and it was good day to relax, read, catch up with sleep, journals, photo editing, and the like. The next day brought lower seas and pleasant conditions with good numbers of birds. At least 14 species of tubenoses before breakfast set the tone for the day, which ended with ballets of Wandering and Royal Albatrosses wheeling behind the ship, a fitting way to end our sojourn to the magical southern lands and seas of “the Subs.”
The sun broke through the clouds as we wound up the entrance to Dunedin Harbor, and a cool early morning wind cut across the sheltered waters dotted with gulls, terns, and shags. New species for the trip included Royal Spoonbill and Pied Oystercatcher, and all too soon it was time for a group photo and goodbyes after a wonderful and memory-filled trip of some 2,615 nautical miles and seven remarkable island groups.
- Steve Howell
Updated: December 2008