2007 Tour Narrative
In Brief: Our 2007 Madagascar tour found all three Mesites, four endemic rails, seven nocturnals, all 10 Couas, all five Ground-Rollers, all four Asitys and all 14 traditional Vangas. Or, for those on the extension, it could be the encounters with Aye-Ayes, probably one of the world’s weirdest mammals (although a primate), not to mention the amazing Helmet Vangas. In retrospect, the greatest coup may have been finding Madagascar Serpent-Eagle, not once but twice (although admittedly the same individual), and watching it sit on a luckless Leaf-tailed Gecko! In addition, we had 24 lemurs plus an array of other native mammals, and we identified 24 reptiles.
The sensible daylight hours, (normally) dry climate, lack of biting insects, and moderate temperatures throughout seemed to compensate for the relative paucity of migrant waders and absence of Broad-billed Roller, which are still on the African mainland. Although we tried, we also failed at Madagascar Cuckoo-Hawk, Madagascar Harrier and Madagascar Partridge.
In Detail: After arriving a little later than scheduled, the group was collected from the Air France flight and transferred to our hotel in Antananarivo for a restful, albeit short, night. The participants regrouped the next morning for breakfast before leaving for Tsaratsaotra private reserve, only a few kilometers from the city centre. This is usually the first introduction to Madagascar’s endemic species, and the group was able to appreciate the herons of six species involved in raising their young. The recently arrived Madagascar Squacco (Pond) Herons were still in non-breeding dress, earlier resident birds such as Cattle Egrets, Great Egrets and Black-crowned Night-Herons had as usual commenced in late winter, and their broods were already on the wing. Common Squaccos were behaving like Birds of Paradise, waving their exaggerated plumes in the faces of their intended, and the Dimorphic Egrets were in all stages from nest-building to feeding nearly independent young. There were large numbers of ducks present, although no Meller’s. It could well be Madagascar’s most threatened-species currently, as all of the shallow swamps are metamorphosed into rice paddies. We had lunch at the Tonga Soa Hotel, where we experienced delicious Malgasche cuisine prepared and served by the vivacious Ninah. In the lush verdant garden we found nest-building Souimanga Sunbirds, rather dull Madagascar Fodys and four dapper Namaqua Doves amongst others. In the afternoon we departed for the zoological gardens of Tsimbazaza not far from the city. Here it was possible to see many examples of the species that we would later encounter in the field. There was time for some souvenir shopping in the Marché Artesenal, then we returned to our hotel for dinner and overnight.
After an early breakfast, off we set for the long drive to Ranomafana. It was not a birding day, but after our revitalizing coffee in Antsirabe, tasty lunch in Ambositra (with some more souvenir shopping), we located many Madagascar Larks and Madagascar Cisticolas in a swampy area that had before hosted Meller’s Duck and Madagascar Snipe. We continued on the now-paved road from Fianarantsoa to Ranomafana, so very much better than the series of co-joined pot-holes that it used to be!
Our hotel was located near the town, and breakfast was always ready in the mornings, and the staff was always cheerful even if the sun had not yet risen. With the expertise of our local guide and his acolyte we were led to all of the local specialties, although not all of the species wanted to reveal themselves very willingly. The mainly one-and-only chance birds, namely Brown Mesite, Yellow-bellied Sunbird Asity, Grey and Brown Emutails, Forest Rock Thrush and Pollen’s Vanga, did give a fight but we were successful one by one. Brown Mesites ambled in slow motion being expertly chivvied by our guides, a visit to a popular spot provided ample opportunity for photographing Fossa, and on the way to this site we had a wonderful time with the recently discovered Golden Bamboo Lemurs and a pair of Pitta-like Ground-Rollers feeding like thrushes on a path. On one day we had a picnic at Vohiparara, an unusual but delicious warm terrine of pork and vegetables, followed by freshly baked pizza. With a patient wait by an epiphytic flowering shrub, a female Yellow-bellied Sunbird Asity arrived in gleaming splendor amidst much excitement. The beautiful spring mornings certainly affected many of the passerines, and the forest edge was filled with birds and bird song. A pair of Brown Emutails was gently pushed along by our guides until they were actually under the group. Climbing up to the highest point at Vohiparara, we found several Cryptic Warblers. In fact collectively we saw almost all of the birds of Ranomafana, but the Mad Prats had still not returned! In the evening two Rufous-headed Ground-Rollers were extrovertly feeding on the path and seemed to be following us, vying for attention whilst we studied four Madagascar Yellowbrows that were busily bathing in a puddle. A Snipe drive was a success at a nearby swamp thanks to our local guides’s persistence, but unfortunately the Reunion Harriers that were supposed to have taken up residence were not to be seen. Amongst the sedges we found the endemic Sundew.
The two days were very full, and after the final hour at Vohiparara we continued on our journey, stopping for a tasty lunch at Ambalavao and finding Warty Chameleons in the garden. Crossing the Plateau l’Horombe, we scanned eagerly for the Harriers but could not locate one. Arrival at the Relais de la Reine was quite a shock, as the main building had burnt down! The cottages were unaffected however, and we ate at the neighboring Palais de le Roi. In the morning the Benson’s Rock Thrushes were their obliging selves, and we found both species of Little Grebes on the dam, plus other niceties such as Madagascar Hoopoes and Grey-headed Lovebirds. The vegetation was not ignored: three species of Vinca, Pachypodiums and some very strange-looking unidentified plants completed our all-too-short stay there.
In the vicinity of Saffira, we were unable to get out and walk the grasslands for Madagascar Partridge at our usual spot, and so continued on to Zombitse Forest. Zombitse was quite quiet when we arrived, but on a winding route through the forest we saw much of interest. One Oustalet’s Chameleon was in excess of 60 centimeters, a real monster! Several of the rare Standing’s Day-Gecko were discovered on the office, Three-eyed Iguanids with their pineal eye were scurrying about at the edge of the forest and quaint Red-necked and Madagascar Skinks were basking near the picnic area. We were shown many orchids and interesting plants, and of course the endemic and quite endearing Appert’s Greenbul, whose world distribution is restricted to Zombitse. Both Giant and Coquerel’s Couas obliged us, and Cuckoo-Rollers put on a very fine and loud display. There were a few butterflies along the tracks, and the most delightful Red-tailed Sportive Lemurs peered at us from outside of their daytime retreats. We arrived in Tulear in the late afternoon and settled into our rooms.
After an overnight at the Capricorne and a very early breakfast the following morning necessitated by some celestial body playing havoc with the tides, we found ourselves transported to our boat by oxcart as the water was too shallow for the vessel to approach any closer to the shore. This was a new experience for some members, and an interesting way to travel! We motored on to Anakao and Nosy Ve. On our arrival it was not long before we had located our first male Littoral Rock Thrush on top of a building, and a few Sub-desert Brush Warblers were clicking away whilst hopping over the sand. Some Madagascar Buttonquails were very easy to see here, not having too much to hide in. After some refreshments we boarded the boat again for our short hop across to Nosy Ve. This most exquisite island paradise was all the more welcoming with a group of three Crab Plovers resting on their “knees” amongst a group of terns and waders. The numerous Red-tailed Tropicbirds greeted us with their strident calls, whilst offspring of various ages waited quietly under the bushes for a parent to come and feed them. Dapper White-fronted Plovers skittered amongst the tide wrack with their precocial chicks only days old, and well-traveled Ruddy Turnstones chased the fast receding tide, and recede it did. Our boat crew was expert at locating the smallest of channels to guide us out of the maze of coral heads to get us into deeper water for our return to Anakao, where we dined on the most delicious of lunches in such a sumptuous, if not decadent, setting. After satisfying ourselves we were hurried back to the boat as the tide was rising. After a short wade, we set off for Tulear Harbour once more where we again found ourselves in the aquatic bovine taxis and transferred to terra firma.
We again consumed our breakfast early the next morning, not because of any tides but because we were going to search in the grey dry scrub on the coral rag for Verreaux’s Coua and Red-shouldered Vanga, early risers and equally early retirees. The Vangas — possibly one of the world’s least-numerous species (maximum of six known) — came in when our guide whistled to them, then they led us a merry chase all through the occasionally unfriendly vegetation. On the way we had a remarkably obliging Verreaux’s Coua sunning itself on the top of a small tree. Heading down to the St. Augustin road, we arrived just as the Madagascar Sandgrouse were flying in to their drinking site. We had a remarkable time with some 13 birds, but now we had to head north to Ifaty for lunch. On the way we encountered colorful archaebacteria on the salty pools, but the prize was a Madagascar Plover posing on a ridge, which allowed a very close approach as we edged closer. Following a short siesta after a very satisfactory lunch, we ventured into nearby spiny forest, encountering a group of Sub-desert Mesites and a Banded Kestrel, always a problematic bird. Another tasty meal and it was time to retire to our comfortable dwellings.
An early coffee and tea the next morning was well worth the effort, as it was our morning in the Spiny Forest with our local guide and family. The patriarch stayed in bed, and like Fagin collected the guiding fee after three of his “children” had successfully shown us all of the local specialties. The bizarre didiereas, two baobab species (fony and za, although in some publications this is stated to be a giant restricted to the Mandrare River valley), giant Pachypodium geayi and strange euphorbias were so fascinating. But our main targets were Running and Green-capped Coua, Thamnornis Warbler, Archbold’s Newtonia and Lafresnaye’s Vanga, plus Long-tailed Ground-Roller and Sub-desert Mesite for those that had not had a decent view the previous afternoon. By 7:30 it was all over and we had had wonderful views of all of these species, another Banded Kestrel, plus White-headed, Sickle-billed and Hook-billed Vangas. Then we retired to the lodge for a well-earned late breakfast and a morning of doing absolutely nothing, which went down very well. In the afternoon we went for a drive along the edge of the forest, finding all of the morning’s species by ourselves, apart from the Long-tailed Ground-Roller.
After an early breakfast we boarded the bus, driving along the coast where the tide was quite low but had turned. Madagascar Giant Swallowtails were quite numerous, basking in the early rays of the sun, and a pair of very showy White-throated Rails was drawn into the open where they paraded defiantly. A Baillon’s Crake was seen in a channel, but not by all; by organizing a family of six local minors we were able to drive three Baillon’s Crakes into a narrow neck of reeds. Perhaps six is overkill, but we could not have wanted for better views of the endemic race of Little Bittern. We continued on to the airport for our flight to Fort Dauphin, where we were met and then bumped and bounced along to Berenty on by far the worst road of the entire tour. Having seen Giant Coua and Madagascar Sandgrouse, the only birds we were really after were White-browed Owl and Torotoroke Scops Owl. We still managed to get there in daylight, and see them at their roosts before they went off to feed. White-footed Sportive and Grey Mouse Lemurs were equally obliging on our night walk, as was a friendly Barn Owl.
The next morning we had better exposure to the Ring-tailed Lemurs and Vereaux’s Sifakas, and spent some time marveling over the colony of Madagascar Flying Fox. Then, because of the early Air Madagascar schedules, we left at 7 a.m. for the airport, studying the various Alluaudia species on the way. On the drive back into Tana from the airport, there was again time for a little artifact acquisition.
The following morning was grey as we left Tana, and rain started to get heavier and heavier. There were no Madagascar Pratincoles on the Mangoro Bridge, and only a few Hamerkops on the way. En route to Perinet we stopped at a small swamp and lured a Madagascar Rail out into a very open area with its two chicks, all black except for bright pink patches on the bill, and we studied some very friendly Grey Emutails. On arrival we were met by our extremely thorough and capable local guide. The rain persisted and it was showering most of the time when we set off straight away for a Rainforest Scops Owl which was at home, and a pair of Collared Nightjar that weren’t. Our first exposure to Indri was dramatic, and after this taster of what was to come, we set off for the Vakona and lunch.
Over the next few days we were led to most of the species we had not yet seen. We visited another pair of Collared Nightjars, for many one of the major highlights of the tour, as the two birds side by side on a branch kept themselves off the damp ground cover. Very close-by, a Madagascar Long-eared Owl glared at us from its open pine roost site. Crested Ibis posed for us in a tree before settling down to roost, Nuthatch Vangas were met with on several occasions amidst much excitement, Short-legged Ground-Roller finally capitulated, Henst’s Goshawk screamed at us in a fit of pique, Madagascar Flufftails timidly came to have a good look at us, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfishers just glowed in the continual gloom of the frustrating climatic conditions, and Red-breasted Couas had the last laugh by calling every day with nothing being seen of them apart from a tail disappearing into the ground cover. In addition to the Indris we had beautiful Diademed Sifakas and appealing Greater Dwarf Lemur. Our visitation to the Peyrieras Reptile Park was a nice break, where everyone had the chance to meet many of the endearing members of the incredible “herp” fauna at very close quarters. As always there was not enough time to take it all in, and we started our climb towards Tana.
In Mahajanga we were met and shuttled to the waterfront hotel, overlooking what must be one of the largest and most decorative swimming pools in the world. After a painless checking in we settled into our comfortable rooms complete with the luxury of remote-controlled air conditioners and television, and in the afternoon had a city tour with a look at Cirque Rouge, where there was a dramatic Peregrine diving amongst the crags. The evening meal was seafood, for which Madagascar is so rightly renowned.
The next morning we left for Ampijoroa, and apart from a brief stop at Amboromalandy for various herons and our only Glossy Ibis, arrived in good time for the morning’s activity. The specialties of the area fell one by one, Coquerel’s and Red-capped Couas, Rufous Vanga, plus a whole host of widespread endemics. On the lake we additionally picked up Madagascar Fish Eagle, Madagascar Jacana, impressive Humblot’s Heron and a few African Darters. Next we returned for our picnic, a casual affair of freshly prepared spring-roll pastries with shallot handles. The lobsters went down especially well with the béarnaise. No one complained about the spit-roasted King Prawns — nor all of the accompaniments, the fresh fruit and the welcome coffee with ranono-sirimamy for that extra taste! The chocolates that went with the coffee were just too much after tucking into freshly made jam roly-poly. The only thing missing was Van Dam’s Vanga!
Our cottages, beautiful both in appointment and location overlooking the lake, ensured a comfortable and well-earned sleep. The next morning we successfully located a female Schlegel’s Asity sunning itself in the early morning light and had much-improved views of White-breasted Mesites and even our third Banded Kestrel, but more unexpected was a very early adult Sooty Falcon. Of all the birds in the area only Van Dam’s Vanga was elusive, and that too finally capitulated on a fourth attempt to a new site, where there was a lone male eagerly awaiting the presence of a female. The group’s encounter with Lemurs was also an “ooh” and “aah” experience, with bouncy Coquerel’s Sifakas and endearing Yoda-like Milne-Edward’s Sportive Lemurs, sleepy Western Avahis, and the difficult-to-find Mongoose Lemurs. Reptiles and butterflies were equally eye-catching with watchful Crocodiles, indifferent Madagascan Green Day-Geckoes, somewhat brazen Collared Iguanids, and the enormous Madagascar Giant Swallowtail, a relative of the New Guinea Birdwings. At this time of year the weather in Ankarafantsika was pleasant, not becoming anything resembling hot until after 11 o’clock, and there were no biting insects of any description — so very different to what can be expected from mid-October onwards, when temperatures start to soar and biting insects start to bore! We returned to Mahajanga, with an unproductive attempt at locating Madagascar Partridge, and settled back into the comfort of our rooms.
The next morning brought a boat trip on the Betsiboky River, where we found two of the country’s rarest species: Bernier’s Teal in little groups in the mangroves, and the dapper Bernier’s Ibis feeding on the oozy mud. It was a beautiful day with pleasant temperature and calm water, and the interesting assemblage of birds included a group of Lesser Flamingos, many Whimbrel and a party of comical Terek Sandpipers. The dark-phase Dimorphic Egrets were a startling shade of blue, as they flew ahead of the boat before landing back in the mangroves. Even on the boat, the cool breeze resulted in almost all of the drinks being brought back to land untouched, as not a thirst was created, even with the picnic containing smoked sail-fish. In the afternoon we returned to Tana once again, and after a good meal said farewell to the group members who were not continuing on to Cap Masoala.
We were to return to the Indian Ocean coast again and, having suffered the wet conditions of Perinet, we were hoping that the weather had remarkably improved. It was a direct flight to Maroantsetra, but whilst we thought we were in the driest time of the year, the clouds built up as soon as we crossed the eastern escarpment and it grew gloomier and gloomier. The captain tried to land the plane but gave it up as there was zero visibility, so we continued on to Sambava and Tamatave, where we found a few House Sparrows for the list! The passengers bound for Maroantsetra were treated well by Air Madagascar, which put us up in a comfortable and clean hotel at their expense and then transferred us back to the airport for another attempt at Maroantsetra — which was this time successful. After lunch at the Relais de Masoala, we set off with our guide Lu-kluk, first looking along the canal and finding a Madagascar Jacana, a large and handsome Panther Chameleon and a delightful blue-backed reed-frog, Afrixalus madagascariensis. Then we went upriver by boat to a nearby forest to look for Aye-Ayes. We saw four, two of which were feeding in a fruiting Canarium tree. We also waited outside a Red Owl roost, although nothing came of it. A very large Tomato Frog, only found around Maroantsetra was a special discovery.
The next morning we left at 5:30 for the crossing to Cap Masoala, which was quite rough going against the waves, but at least there were no white-caps. We were at Chez Arol by about 7:15, and after breakfast we joined up with our guide. We set off on a wet and rough trail, crossing several rivers, to look for such specialties as Helmet and Bernier’s Vanga, Scaly Ground-Roller and Red-breasted Coua. After some five hours we trudged back, having heard Helmet Vangas but not seeing them — adding salt to the wounds of hearing Bernier’s Vanga but only Brian seeing it and the rest of the group unable to find it, and of hearing Red-breasted Coua, and of Tubud seeing a Scaly Ground-Roller run across the road but not able to relocate it. It was a dejected group, so Brian tried to say something encouraging for the morale: “You know on days like this you see nothing and then suddenly you come across something really exciting like a… Serpent-Eagle!” — then added, “mobbing a Red Owl,” which was probably exaggerating to the extreme. Five seconds later there was a scream from the bush which Brian and Tubud did not recognize. Tubud went into the forest to try and locate the author and about a minute later he was shouting back, “Quickly, Madagascar Serpent-Eagle!” — which was enough to attract our attention and in we went. Three times the bird flew, and three times he managed to relocate it, until finally it rested under the canopy quite openly, perched on a Leaf-tailed Gecko, which had been the author of the scream! We watched the bird and it flew again, calling its peculiar duck-like notes from another perch in the swamp. We turned to go back, and we found ourselves caught up in the Pandanus swamp. It took some 40 minutes to extricate ourselves, but with the sea crashing on the other side of the swamp we were not really lost!
The next day we were successful with wonderful Red-breasted Coua and Helmet Vanga exposure, as well as Madagascar Pratincoles perched on beach boulders. Although hearing Bernier’s Vanga we were not to see it. Red-ruffed Lemurs were the distraction for the afternoon. On the final day we finally tracked down an obliging Scaly Ground-Roller on a path, but Bernier’s Vanga views were still poor. On this final day the rain returned with a vengeance, but despite this our morning crossing of the bay was smooth. We caught our plane and landed back in bright, sunny and cheerful Tana, which had received no rain whilst we were away.
Ninah at Tonga Soa provided an excellent meal as always, and in the afternoon we revisited Tsaratsaotra. There were now six Madagascar Squacco Herons displaying in their ivory splendor with bright cobalt bill and pink legs. Duck numbers were high, and two Fulvous Whistling-Duck were in the throng. There was also a Meller’s Duck — or, at least 95% of it was. Although the plumage was fine, even with a perfect blackish head, there was a pale line behind the eye and the sides of the bill were pinkish. Dinner that night at Tonga Soa was another duck in green pepper sauce prepared by Patrick, which was something very special. Day rooms were available and preparations for departure went smoothly.
Finally it became time to say farewell to the Great Red Island, having tasted more than just the spices in the time available to us. The red soil of Madagascar is indelible and, once it is in the system, nothing will remove it! From Tonga Soa it was just two minutes to the airport, where there were farewells, formalities and time to reflect on what the participants had experienced during their stay in the “Magical Isle.”
— Brian Finch
Updated: November 2007