2006 Tour Narrative
Our first birds-and-music venture in the New World was unanimously voted a resounding and unqualified success: two weeks of sheer joy, providing a feast for all the senses, with excellent food and drink, luxurious hotels, a succession of outstanding concerts in exquisitely beautiful settings, and a bewildering variety of birds. Even the renaissance-and-baroque aficionados were amazed at the range of musical experiences encompassed by what some might consider a limited and esoteric context. Yet each concert was so different (and so thoroughly enjoyable) that every one was a contender for ‘best of trip’. The top professional ensembles from all over the world (Argentina, Belgium, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, England, France, Germany, Holland, Israel, Italy, Japan, Mexico, Paraguay, Poland, Spain, Switzerland, Uruguay, and USA) intermixed with indigenous choirs and orchestras which made up in enthusiasm and infectious happiness anything they lacked in polish and technique.
It is difficult to explain the heightened sense of ecstasy and complete satisfaction of listening to glittering chords and cadenzas whilst gazing on the burnished gold and sparkling mica of the Jesuit altarpieces. The tingle factor was ever-present. And not just for the familiar Vivaldi, Bach, Handel, Purcell, Biber, Telemann, Monteverdi, Sch?tz, Corelli, Sweelink, and Praetorius but for the lesser-known Zipoli, Basanni, Gletle, Frescobaldi, Perez, da Silva Gomes, do Monte Carmelo, and most of all a wealth of unknown but thrilling works by the prolific Anónimo. Al fresco jamming sessions of local dances, a surprise impromptu concert of exciting modern music by a passing Brazilian orchestra, and a rare chance to see an 18th-century Bolivian opera featuring an encounter between St. Ignatius of Loyola and the Devil (actually hugely enjoyable) all added to the variety.
The birds were equally varied and equally colorful – parrots and macaws (17 species), hummingbirds (10 species), trogons, motmots, jacamars, kingfishers… The relentless succession of exciting specialities started as soon as we arrived at Santa Cruz airport (with Greater Rhea, Red-legged Seriema, and Red-winged Tinamou) and continued until the very last morning when new birds were still being discovered near our hotel (White-eared Puffbird, White-bellied Seedeater, Sooty-fronted Spinetail) and even, as we were about to leave for our flight check-in, a Common Potoo in the hotel grounds – a new record for the area. A big surprise to all, including leader Nick who has lived in Bolivia for the last nine years, was the number of easy birds by the roadside en route to every concert, without recourse to arduous forest treks.
So many cameos come to mind: the Bolivian (Southern White-crowned) Tapaculo fully exposed on a log, the White-tailed Goldenthroat feeding its chick (the first time any of us had witnessed this in a hummingbird), the Small-billed Tinamou which flew from cover into the road and the Tataupa Tinamou which similarly shunned concealment, the party of fifty Nacunda Nighthawks alongside our coach, the Andean Condors above our hammocks, the Red-billed Scythebill and the Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, the Toco Toucan just like the Guinness advertisement, prehistoric Hoatzins and noisy Southern Screamers, Saffron-billed Sparrow, elegant Capped Herons, Bat Falcon, Long-winged Harrier, Black-capped Donacobius, Red-fronted Coot (the first for Bolivia)… It is significant that every participant chose a different species as Bird of the Trip, though proportional representation gave that accolade to the delighted Peach-fronted Parakeet, a popular runner-up.
Other forms of wildlife ranged from the Giant Hunting Ant (described in the Travellers’ Wildlife Guide to Brazil as ‘probably the most dangerous animal you will encounter during your trip to the rainforest in Brazil… if all you do is see it, consider yourself lucky, because the sting of this animal is considered one of the most painful in the entire world – it may even cause hallucinations in some people’) to Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth and the Tayra which, unaware of our presence above it as we watched a Yungas Manakin, paused to drink at a forest stream.
Memorable images also must include the splendid pink-blossomed Toborochi trees adding a splash of colour to both forest and savanna, the spectacular sandstone cliffs and ‘Lost World’ landscape surrounding Los Volcanes in the Amboro National Park, and the ever-present reminders of Marge the scum-chomping Mermaid who proved our guardian angel on more than one occasion.
Our only regret is that the Festival of International Renaissance and American Baroque Music is biennial – which means we have to wait 24 months before we can return to this happiest of festivals in a delightful country inhabited by the loveliest of people whose courtesy and welcome to visitors knows no bounds.
Bryan Bland