2007 Tour Narrative
In Brief: Returning to Papua New Guinea, our 2007 WINGS tour found that birding on the island is better than ever with new lodges and increased accessibility to sites. The quest for birds-of-paradise is one of the major enticements for birders to visit Papua New Guinea, and our tour did not disappoint, with 20 species being sighted. Displaying King Bird-of-paradise, early morning views of Twelve-wired Bird-of-paradise on a display tree, Ribbon-tailed Astrapias and Brown Sicklebills at the Kumul Lodge feeders, and King-of-Saxony Bird-of-paradise above Ambua were only a few of the sightings that made this a tour to paradise! But birds-of-paradise were not the only key players to make this tour a highlight trip for any birder. A Chestnut Forest-Rail circling us on a narrow trail, a Southern Crowned Pigeon perched in a tree along the Elevera River, a Blue Jewel Babbler finally showing itself, 2 species of owl on a day-time roost, Barred and Mountain Owlet-Nightjars, 4 species of bowerbirds and their bowers, and some of the flashiest kingfishers in the world all combined to make this an experience that none of us would have missed!
In Detail: For those of us who had started the tour the previous week with the PNG Island extension, returning to Varirata National Park was a second chance at some now-familiar mainland PNG birds and the thrill of all the possibilities of new species. And for those new to PNG, there is no better way to start than with a trip to Varirata, only a short distance from the city of Port Moresby. The abundance of doves and pigeons was in evidence as we sighted Slender-billed Cuckoo Dove, Great Cuckoo-Dove, Wompoo and Superb Fruit Doves, and Purple-tailed Imperial Pigeon. We puzzled over how cryptic parrots with reds and yellows could be in a forest tree as we enjoyed sightings of Black-capped Lory and Red-cheeked Parrot. And there is always increased excitement at seeing night birds in the daytime, no matter how brief the sighting of the Barred Owlet-Nightjar that flew from its roost tree; Large-tailed Nightjar on a nest was much more obliging. The pleasure of Brown-headed Paradise Kingfisher and Yellow-billed Kingfisher sightings was not diminished for those who had been fortunate enough to see them on our previous visit. Cuckoo-shrikes were in abundance, with White-bellied, Boyer’s, and a large flock of Black-faced Cuckoo-Shrikes sighted during the day. And a skulking Painted Quail Thrush and Rusty Mouse Warbler were vocalizing only a short distance away.
Pacific Adventist University provided an excellent relief for weary eyes, with waterbirds in abundance including Spotted Whistling Ducks, and other highlight sightings including the nest of Papuan Frogmouth, an obliging Orange-fronted Fruit-Dove, and Fawn-breasted Bowerbirds.
Our arrival in Kiunga in the lowlands along the Fly River quickly provided an immersion in the Western Province of PNG as we settled into Kiunga Guest House. Mid-afternoon saw us at Km 17 watching fruiting trees for fruit doves including Pink-spotted, Ornate, Orange-bellied, and Dwarf. Lowland Peltops was a real beauty set against the late afternoon sky. The day ended much too quickly as we enjoyed a sundowner watching the evening flights of birds and enjoying our arrival in the lowlands for a 4-night stay.
Our time in Kiunga was spent visiting different forest habitats in search of many of the specialties of the area including Long-tailed Honey-Buzzard, Zoe and Mountain Imperial Pigeons, Orange-breasted Fig Parrots, Variable Pitohui, and of course, bowerbirds and birds-of-paradise. A male Flame Bowerbird flashing like a comet across the clearing where we were standing one morning left many of us stunned. Repeated encounters with manucodes including Glossy Mantled, Crinkle-collared, and Trumpet provided opportunities to study the identification features of these superficially similar birds. And Greater and Raggiana Birds-of-paradise were enjoyed each time we ventured onto the trail.
Boat trips provide a different type of birding — the opportunity to bird intensely while relaxing! And our day on the Fly and Elevera Rivers was one of the highlights of our time in the Western Province. The early dawn had us scanning every possible dead tree for the silhouette of our target – Twelve-wired Bird-of-paradise. Samuel proved he knew his “patch,” as we soon had a sighting of the Twelve-wired. And the birding continued in such a fashion throughout the day, with our first-of-the-trip White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Collared Imperial Pigeons, Palm Cockatoos, Grey Crows, and many other species. But of course, the second prize sighting of the day was of a very obliging Southern Crowned Pigeon. The size and beauty of this species must be seen to really be appreciated. Yellow-capped Pygmy Parrots were frustrating as they flew across the sky like bullets, never allowing good study views. A displaying King Bird-of-paradise is unsurpassable – what incredible views we had of this. Patience became a virtue while searching for an elusive Blue Jewel-Babbler that finally gave brief but satisfying views to most of the group.
If a flight cancellation could ever be fortuitous, perhaps the airline canceling our flight on the day we were to leave Kiunga was one of those occasions. PNG hospitality was much in evidence as the guest house opened its doors to the weary travelers once more and gave us use of transport for the afternoon, while Samuel offered to provide a morning boat trip for us the following day. And what a pleasant time we had with Hook-billed Kingfisher and Common Paradise Kingfishers and Emperor and Wallace’s Fairy Wrens keeping us alert and enthused. Yellow-capped Pygmy-Parrots and Twelve-wired Bird-of-paradise offered better views than before.
The arrival of our plane, albeit late, meant that we were to leave this lush lowland area to travel to the highlands above Mt. Hagen. With only an hour or so of light remaining after our arrival, we made the most of our time by stopping at Tapuka Quarry to see a Yellow-breasted Bowerbird with bower. Following dinner, a quick walk around the grounds of the Lodge resulted in the spotting of a confiding Mountain Owlet-Nightjar (for one or two lucky souls, this sighting was from the comfort of their lodge room).
With time short before we had to head downhill toward Mt. Hagen to catch our charter flight to Ambua Lodge, we assembled for dawn at Kumul’s feeders (after enjoying the human feeders at the buffet breakfast in the dining room). Quickly we were shouting out sightings – Brehm’s Tiger Parrot, Blue-capped Ifrita (another poison bird), Lemon-breasted Berrypecker, Belford’s and Ornate Melidectes, Ribbon-tailed Astrapia, and Brown Sicklebill were just a few of the many highlights of the morning. A quick walk around the Lodge grounds revealed a few passerines, including Black-breasted Boatbill, but the ease of birding at the feeders acted like a magnet to pull us back onto the veranda. The few hours we had to enjoy this incredible lodge passed far too quickly.
Ambua: famous for its setting, its culture, and of course, its birds: Mountain Peltops, Black Sicklebill, Lawes’ Parotia, Great Woodswallow, Princess Stephanie’s Astrapia. For the next four days we immersed ourselves in the birds of the highlands, relishing the views, the climate, and the ambience of the Tari region and the comfort of our Lodge in such close proximity to some of the best birding in PNG. The highlights from our time here are many. None of us will forget the Chestnut Forest Rail that so confidingly walked in a circle around us, scope views of a White-breasted Fruit-Dove, Dusky Lories flying overhead, a Red-breasted Pygmy Parrot…. Night birds were at times easy and at other times led us on a merry chase. Our two-owl morning with Greater Sooty Owl and Jungle (Papuan) Boobook on daytime roosts and the nesting Papuan Frogmouth were highlights in the Tari Valley. And score 2 for Feline Owlet Nightjar and 0 for the birders as it eluded us on two attempts, except for a very poor fly-over. Archbold’s (Mountain) Nightjar was more cooperative in the pre-dawn hour one morning. And display areas and fruiting trees at the Lodge and further afield afforded opportunities for repeated encounters for the family for which PNG is perhaps best known—birds-of-paradise. Crested, Blue, and Loria’s Birds-of-paradise, Short-tailed Paradigalla, Black and Brown Sicklebills, Princess Stephanie’s Astrapias, and Lawes’ Parotia all made appearances. And the sight of a King-of-Saxony Bird-of-paradise perched on an open branch tossing its bizarre head plumes or the white tail feathers of Ribbon-tailed Astrapia flitting like silk through the trees will be recalled time and again through our mental and photographic images for years to come. Never again will we be able to watch an Attenborough film on birds-of-paradise without leaning back, smiling and thinking – yes, I’ve experienced that!
Judy Davis
Updated: January 2008