2008 Tour Narrative
In Brief: Even by Madagascar standards, our 2008 WINGS tour was exceptional. By the time we said goodbye to the Red Island, the group had found all three mesites, four endemic rails, eight nocturnal birds, all ten couas, all five ground-rollers, all four asities (Schlegel’s was only heard), and all 14 traditional vangas. Now that’s birding! The group was introduced to most of the region’s endemics, 23 species of lemur, an array of other native mammals, 38 identifiable reptiles (including an impressive 12 chameleon species), a whole host of butterflies—and some extremely good food! Stunning scenery and knowledgeable and personable guides have always helped to make this tour a resounding success.
On the rarity side we found a Pectoral Sandpiper at Tulear, the first or possibly second record of this Asian/American vagrant. A Sandwich Tern discovered at Nosy Ve appears to be the island’s second record. A colony of 20 nesting Little Swifts in Tana was also a great discovery, and Madagascar Black Swifts behaved as if they were nesting in the same building. A superb and confiding Madagascar Cuckoo-Hawk was located at Ampijoroa. Madagascar Partridges were feeding in the open on the shore at Isalo.
In Detail: We began the tour with an early morning flight to Mahajanga, where we were shuttled to the waterfront hotel, overlooking what must be one of the largest and most decorative swimming pools in the world. On our first walk, the group caught up with Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar White-eye, and Common Jery. Our first reptile was a striking Side-striped Day-Gecko. After lunch we left for Cirque Rouge, where a pair of dramatic Peregrines were displaying and diving among the crags. Continuing our walk, we found our first Madagascar Coucal and Madagascar Magpie-Robins.
The next morning we left for Ampijoroa, stopping briefly at Amboromalandy for numerous Black Egrets (several adopting their umbrella stance), our first Humblot’s Heron, and many Glossy Ibis. The specialties of Ampijoroa fell one by one, including Coquerel’s and Red-capped Couas, Rufous Vanga, and several widespread endemics. On the lake we picked up Madagascar Fish Eagle, Madagascar Jacana, close views of the impressive Humblot’s Heron, and a few African Darters. We returned for our picnic, a casual affair beginning with freshly prepared spring-roll pastries with shallot handles. The lobster went down well, especially with the béarnaise, and no one complained about the spit-roasted king prawns. And there was fresh fruit and welcome coffee, with ranono-sirimamy for that extra taste. The chocolates that went with the coffee were just too much after tucking into freshly honey crepes. The only thing missing was Van Dam’s Vanga!
A nocturnal sojourn rewarded us with the Golden Mouse Lemur, endemic to Ampijoroa and found only around Lake Ravelobe. We also found a sleeping Rhinoceros Chameleon with its chain-saw like nasal appendage. Our beautifully appointed cottages overlooking the lake ensured a comfortable and well-earned sleep.
The next morning we heard Schlegel’s Asity and had much better views of White-breasted Mesites. Only Van Damn’s Vanga was elusive, though one called from somewhere in the middle of the forest. The group’s encounter with lemurs was an “ooh” and “aah” experience, with bouncy Coquerel’s Sifakas , endearing Yoda-like Milne-Edward’s Sportive Lemurs, and sleepy Western Avahis. Reptiles and butterflies were equally eye-catching, with watchful Nile Crocodiles, indifferent day-geckoes, somewhat brazen Collared Iguanids, and the enormous Madagascar Giant Swallowtail, a relative of New Guinea’s birdwings. Our group’s wide-ranging interests in all aspects of wildlife and botany made the entire adventure all the more enthralling. We returned to Mahajanga for an appetizing evening meal and settled into the comfort of our rooms.
The next morning was spent on a boat trip on the Betsiboky River, where we found two of the country’s rarest species, Bernier’s Teal in little groups in the mangroves and the dapper Bernier’s Ibis feeding on the oozy mud. The assemblage also included two Lesser flamingos, many Whimbrels, and a party of comical Terek Sandpipers. The dark-phase Dimorphic Egrets were a startling shade of blue, flying ahead of the boat to land back in the mangroves. In the evening we caught the flight back to Tana and returned to our original hotel.
Another early breakfast was the first order of the day, and then we set off for a long drive toward Ranomafana. After a short shopping stop in Antsirabe and a tasty lunch in Ambositra, we located many Madagascar Larks and Cisticolas in a swampy area. Our first Madagascar Brush Warblers, Madagascar Swamp Warblers, and Madagascar Wagtails were also here, but the prize went to a Cuckoo-Roller attacking a Yellow-billed Kite overehad. We continued on the now-paved road from Fianarantsoa to Ranomafana, so very much better than the series of co-joined potholes it used to be!
The expertise of our local guides led us to all of the local specialties, including the main one-and-only-chance species such as Yellow-bellied Sunbird Asity, Gray and Brown Emutail, Forest Rock Thrush, and Pollen’s Vanga. A pair of roosting Collared Nightjars was one of the most staggering endemics, from a distance of just ten feet! We also had ample opportunity to photograph Fossa, and a good number of the cutest imaginable Brown Mouse Lemurs, which leapt from branch to branch licking up squashed bananas. There were at least 60 people present, chattering softly among themselves, but everything went very silent when a Fossa jumped up, grabbed an unsuspecting Mouse Lemur from the vegetation, and ate it!
During our picnic at Vohiparara near a flowering epiphytic shrub, a male Yellow-bellied Sunbird Asity arrived in gleaming splendor to much excitement. The beautiful spring mornings inspired many of the passerines, and the forest edge was filled with birds and bird song. Climbing to the highest point at Vohiparara and down again, we eventually found four Meller’s Ducks, one of the most endangered species of Madagascar, with its habitat being turned into rice paddies at an alarming rate. In the evening a Rufous-headed Ground-Roller was extrovertly feeding on the path, quite indifferent to us. Nearby we studied several Wedge-tailed Jerys busily bathing in a stream. A Snipe drive was a success at a nearby swamp, and among the sedges we found the endemic Sundew.
Those two days were very full, and after a final hour at Vohiparara we continued on our journey, stopping for a tasty lunch at Ambalavao. Crossing the Plateau l’Horombe, we found two Marsh Owls. Our arrival at the Relais de la Reine was in the dark, and we did not tarry long after eating an incredibly delicious meal.
The Relais de la Reine was as superb as ever, and the splendid architecture and tasteful decor were well appreciated the following morning. The classy meals also helped make us a very contented collection of birders! The Benson’s Rock Thrushes were their obliging selves in the dawn light, and we also found two coveys of Madagascar Partridge, plus other nice birds such as Madagascar Hoopoes and Gray-headed Lovebirds. The vegetation, including three species of Vinca, Pachypodium, and some very strange-looking unidentified plants was an equally fascinating feature of our all-too-short stay.
Zombitse was quiet when we arrived, but our winding route through the forest produced much of interest. A rare Standing’s Day-Gecko was discovered resting on a tree trunk, Three-eyed Iguanids with their pineal eye were scurrying about at the edge of the forest, and quaint Red-necked and Madagascar Skinks were basking near the picnic area. One Oustalet’s Chameleon we found was more than two feet long, a real monster! We were shown many orchids and interesting plants, as well as the endemic and endearing Appert’s Greenbul, whose world distribution is restricted to Zombitse. Both Giant and Coquerel’s Couas obliged, and Cuckoo-Rollers put on a very fine, loud display. There were a few butterflies along the tracks, and the delightful Red-tailed Sportive Lemurs peered at us from outside of their daytime retreats. A sad find was a Madagascar Crested Ibis, killed just the night before by a Fosa.
After an overnight at the Capricorne in Tulear and a very early breakfast, we gathered at La Mangrove for our boat to Anakao. Along the way we were treated to some very close encounters with Rizzo’s Dolphins and very large Southern Right Whales. At Anakao it wasn’t long before we located our first male Littoral Rock Thrush on top of a spiky euphorbia; a few Sub-desert Brush Warblers were clicking away while hopping over the sand. We then boarded the boat again for our short hop across to Nosy Ve. This exquisite island paradise was all the more welcoming with a group of terns that included Sandwich Tern—only the second record for Madagascar. Numerous Red-tailed Tropicbirds greeted us with their strident calls, while offspring of various ages waited quietly under the bushes to be fed. Dapper White-fronted Plovers skittered along the tidal wrack with their precocial chicks only days old, and well-traveled Turnstones chased the lazy lapping wavelets. After the most delicious of lunches, we hurried back to the boat and set off for La Table for our first, and this time unsuccessful, attempt at Verreaux’s Coua and Red-shouldered Vanga.
The next morning we searched the gray dry scrub on the coral rag for Verreaux’s Coua and Red-shouldered Vanga. The vangas, one of the rarest species in the world with a maximum of just six known individuals, came in when our guide whistled to them, then led us a merry chase through the occasionally unfriendly vegetation; along the way we had a remarkably obliging Verreaux’s Coua sunning in the top of a small tree. A stop at the airport pool provided us with a Pectoral Sandpiper, only the second record for the island. We made it down to the St. Augustin road just as five Madagascar Sandgrouse arrived at their drinking site. On the way to Ifaty we encountered colorful archaebacteria on the salty pools, but the prize was a pair of Madagascar Plovers posing on a ridge. Following a short siesta after a very satisfactory lunch we ventured into the nearby spiny forest, encountering a group of Sub-desert Mesites and a hurried view of Running Coua, a Thamnornis, and LaFresnaye’s Vangas working over a Didieria. A roosting Madagascar Nightjar offered us ideal conditions for studying its delicate camouflaged plumage. After another tasty meal it was time to retire to our comfortable dwellings.
The next morning’s early start was well worth it, as we would be visiting the spiny forest. The bizarre didiereas, two baobab species (fony and za, stated in some publications to be a giant restricted to the Mandrare River valley), giant Pachypodium geayi, and strange euphorbias were fascinating. But our main targets were Running and Green-capped Coua, Archbold’s Newtonia, and, for those who had not had a decent view the previous afternoon, Ground-Roller and Sub-desert Mesite. By 8:30 am we had had wonderful views of all of these species, in addition to White-headed, Sickle-billed, and Hook-billed Vangas. We retired to the lodge for a well-earned late breakfast and a morning of doing absolutely nothing, which went over very well. In the afternoon we backtracked towards Tulear to search the swamps for rallids. We had several White-throated Rails, and while we were looking for them, a Madagascar Rail called and a pair was lured in by tape. Successful drives also provided us with two Little Bitterns of the endemic race, two Greater Painted-snipe, and about six Baillon’s Crakes.
After an early breakfast we departed for the airport, detouring along the way for a look at the Pectoral Sandpiper. We said goodbye to our faithful, friendly, and most reliable driver, and boarded our flight to Fort Dauphin. After meeting our local guide, we bumped and bounced our way to Berenty. Having already seen Giant Coua and Madagascar Sandgrouse, the only bird we were really after was White-browed Owl. We managed to arrive in daylight and see the owls at their roosts, and in the space of five minutes we added two more owl species, Barn and Torotoroke Scops. White-footed Sportive Lemurs were equally obliging, and a visit to the Madagascar Flying Fox colony was something special. We were also exposed to the Ring-tailed Lemurs and Verreaux’s Sifakas, and quite a number of Giant Couas fed unconcernedly along the tracks. We departed early for the airport the following morning, seeing the various Alluaudia plant species along the way.
The next day was bright and sunny as we left Tana, and we located a few Hamerkops on the way to Perinet. On arrival we were met by our thorough and capable guide, then set off for a pair of roosting Rainforest Scops Owls, which were at home, and a pair of Collared Nightjars that weren’t. Our first exposure to Indri was dramatic, and after this taste of what was to come, we set off for the Vakona and lunch.
Over the next few days, Tandremo led us to most of the species we had not yet seen. Nuthatch Vangas were met with on several occasions amid much excitement, Short-legged Ground-Roller taunted us from high up on a slope, Madagascar Flufftails timidly came to have a good look at us, and silky Velvet Asities just glowed in the shady parts of the sunlit forest. Red-breasted Coua had the last laugh, calling out to us, but nothing was seen of it. Apart from the Indris, we had beautiful Diademed Sifakas, striking Black-and-White Ruffed Lemurs, and appealing Greater Dwarf Lemur.
It was dry and sunny throughout our stay. Our guides were very skilled when it came to calling in Madagascar Long-eared Owls, and one just glared at us on one evening. In addition to birds, we had the usual commoner chameleons, but were also fortunate enough to find Mathe’s and Will’s. Our visitation to the Peyriras reptile park was a nice break, and everyone had the chance to meet many of the endearing members of the incredible “herp” fauna at very close quarters. There was not enough time to take it all in, and we soon started our climb towards Tana.
We had our breakfast in the city. From here it was a short drive to Tsaratsaotra private reserve, only a few miles from the city center. The only birds here that we had not yet encountered were ducks, and we were fortunate to find a few Hottentot Teal. The group was also able to appreciate the herons of seven species involved in raising their young. The recently arrived Madagascar Squacco (Pond) Herons were in full breeding dress and behaving like birds-of-paradise, waving their exaggerated plumes in the faces of their intended. Resident birds such as Great Egrets and Black-crowned Night-Herons had commenced breeding in late winter, and most of their broods were already on the wing. The Dimorphic Egrets were in all stages, from nest building to feeding nearly independent young, and noisy clusters of Cattle Egrets incubated their eggs in the stands of bamboo. Scattered pairs of Black Egrets were building nests among the other heron species. Large numbers of ducks were present, mostly White-faced Whistling Ducks and Red-billed Teals, but there were also a good number of Knob-billed Ducks.
From here we departed for Tonga Soa Hotel, where we experienced some delicious Malgasche cuisine. In the lush garden we found some nest-building Souimanga Sunbirds, dull Madagascar Fodys, and our only Rainbow Chameleon for the trip. Departing for the Colbert again, there was time for some souvenir shopping before we gathered in the restaurant for our farewell dinner. Three participants left for the Paris flight that night, and the four others readied themselves for the next day’s excursion to Cap Masoala in northeastern Madagascar.
CAP MASOALA EXTENSION: We returned again to the Indian Ocean coast, hoping the calm, bright weather would continue for our expedition. We had a good evening walk, with a number of Mouse and Greater Dwarf Lemurs, and photographed a sleeping Panther Chameleon.
We left the next morning for the Cap. We had a very smooth crossing, and after arrival and coffee set off to find the incomparable Helmet Vanga not far behind the lodge, first an immature all-rufous bird, then a stunning adult. An obliging Red-breasted Coua was also encountered, plus beautiful Red-ruffed Lemurs, as we experienced a light drizzle. In the afternoon we located an extremely obliging Scaly Ground-Roller and heard Bernier’s Vangas call. An evening walk in the vicinity of the lodge gave us four lemur species, of which Weasel Sportive Lemur was new, and several new frogs.
The next morning we set off again, finding a Bernier’s Vanga attacking a Banded Kestrel, a confiding pair of Short-legged Ground-Rollers, a pair of Brown Mesites that behaved like they were nesting, a Madagascar Sparrowhawk perched in the understory, and a Parson’s Chameleon that was high up in a tree and looked three feet long! After lunch, a walk along the beach rewarded us with displaying Madagascar Pratincoles and equally delightful mudskippers grazing on algae on rocks, like piscine sheep. It was the first time any of us had seen a fish that actively fed out of water!
During breakfast the next morning, a Madagascar Serpent Eagle gave its complex refrain once, and we set off in the direction we thought it had come from. After paddling, sloshing and sliding through the rice-paddies that blocked our access to the forest we came back empty-handed. Then it was time to leave the Cap, and we called on the pratincoles again before departing for another smooth crossing to Nosy Mangabe. After lunch we found one of the world’s smallest reptiles, a terrestrial leaf-litter chameleon named after the herpetologist Peyriras, the owner of the herp zoo we had visited. Our evening walk produced a number of frogs, a dozen of the incredible Large Leaf-tailed Geckos, two species of snake, and a number of Mouse Lemurs.
The next morning we departed after breakfast to catch the early flight back to Antananarivo. We stopped off at Tamatave for our last new bird for the trip, a specialty of Tamatave: House Sparrow. Lunch and the remainder of the day was spent in the comfort of Tonga Soa Hotel, again sampling the delicious traditional cuisine.
Finally it was time for the group to say farewell to the great Red Island. But the red soil of Madagascar is indelible: once in the system, nothing will remove it! From Tonga Soa it was just two minutes to the airport, farewells, formalities, and time to reflect on what the participants had experienced during their stay on the “Magical Isle.” Many thanks are due to the participants, whose wonderful group dynamics were a complement to a very merry holiday, with birds, buffets, and barrels of laughter!
- Brian Finch
Updated: January 2009