Tour Narratives
June 2011
An impressive 496 species of birds were seen on the June 2011 tour of central Kenya, and a minor total of 15 species were heard only – meaning 511 forms were recorded by members of this fortunate group! These totals included five storks, 38 birds of prey, nine hornbills, 11 barbets, five owls including three species of eagle-owls, 19 cisticolas, 17 sunbirds, 16 starlings and 14 Ploceus weavers. We also recorded 61 species of mammals (excluding a few unidentified bats, shrews and rodents), including no less than four Leopard sightings and 15 Lions, not to mention both rhinos, Lesser Kudu, Serval, Cheetah, Great Crested Porcupine and many more. Then there were 25 identified reptiles and amphibians, including the impressive endemic Elementeita Rock Agama, plus a few frogs that got away. A whole host of butterflies and dragonflies were also seen, as well as the fascinating botanical fauna, and the whole experience was nearly too much! This incredible diversity was experienced in the seclusion of luxurious lodges deep in the heart of prime birding country, offering not only comfort but the finest food that anyone could hope to find in the wilds of any country on this planet.
We headed off on our first morning to the nearby Nairobi National Park for our introduction to eastern African birding. As we waited for our tickets at the park’s entrance, colorful jewels such as Variable and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds appeared, as did Holub’s Golden and Baglafecht Weavers. There were noisy White-browed Sparrow-Weavers in the parking lot and comical Speckled Mousebirds were creeping through the bushes. Once inside the park, views of ponderous Black Rhinos, stately Masai Giraffe and grassy horizons dotted with gazelles and ostriches left no doubt in participants’ minds about where they were. These eastern African neophytes had over a hundred new species of birds on this first day, with no idea that things were only going to get better! Following this full day, a very tasty meal capped the promise of a good nights rest.
Under a cover of light clouds, we departed through Nairobi traffic toward the Lukenya Hills, our first stop on the long drive to Tsavo West National Park. During our pleasant walk in the hills, we encountered many species in a mixture of highland and lowland forms. Grey-capped Social Weavers were the most numerous species present, busily engaged in nesting activities. Banded Parisomas were very vocal but it was a while before we had good views. Some species remained in cover, as it was a bit on the cool side. A pair of stately Verreaux’s Eagles patrolled the rocky crags for luckless Hyrax, disturbed by some climbers up on the escarpment. We were fortunate enough in locating Southern Grosbeak Canary on the walk back, a species we would not encounter again, and equally lucky with Grey-headed Silverbill. A later stop for refreshments at Hunter’s Lodge was also a pleasant experience, with kingfishers of three species posing a distraction whilst we enjoyed our beverages. A little further on we had our picnic lunch, and after this continued on to Tsavo West. At the museum area just inside the Mtito Andei gate, we stirred up a large assemblage of birds assisted by imitations of Pearl-spotted Owlets. This was an excellent experience with the dry country species, and amongst the birds here were fiery Orange-bellied Parrots, comical Von der Decken’s Hornills, noisy Crested Francolins and busy Hildebrandt’s Starlings. Continuing along the road we stopped for Black-headed Plovers and a perched Golden-breasted Starling. As we neared Ngulia with evening falling, a Freckled Nightjar called from concealment near a lava flow. A Leopard appeared prior to dinner, bringing the tour participants to the forecourt prematurely. The excited observers were also rewarded by several Greater Galagos at their feeding tray and a large herd of Buffalo busy at the small pond 10 meters away. After dinner we retired to bed and rested, readying ourselves for the excitements of the next day.
After an early breakfast the following morning we set off down the escarpment into the thornscrub below. The recent rains meant that the area was leafy with many bushes providing dense cover, which is atypical at this time of year. It was quite a challenge to find birds that were loath to sing or show themselves, however with perseverance the species fell one by one and by the time we returned for lunch we had seen virtually all of the areas residents. Star performers included Pringle’s Puffbacks, Bare-eyed Thrush and stunning Tsavo Sunbirds. Sitting in low scrub were a few Pale Prinias – a species from the north increasing in this area – and Yellow-billed Hornbill. With persistence we also had wonderful views of secretive Red-naped Bush-shrike, a species that is so rarely seen and easily overlooked. We departed in the afternoon for a local drive that led us to a good assortment of species, the best of which were Greater Painted-snipe and Pygmy Kingfisher in a wooded lugga. A rather boisterous African Elephant gave a half-hearted chase, seeming to have a dislike for the mini-bus that was behind us, but was soon in front! That evening we were visited by another Leopard.
The next morning after another early breakfast punctuated by visitations from local avian residents, we set off for more birding in the dry scrub before departing westward to Amboseli. Along the way we stopped for a picnic after calling in an inquisitive Rosy-patched Bush-Shrike and seeing elegant Taita Fiscal. Just before joining the main road, we stopped at a small wood to observe several White-fronted Bee-eaters. Soon we were entering Amboseli National Park and seeing our first elephants of the day. After a scrumptious meal we adjourned to the lounge to formalize the day’s extensive wildlife list and then retired for a very comfortable night.
Our full day in Amboseli was a magical experience. Mount Kilimanjaro, however, would not raise its misty veil until late afternoon, and as soon as there were hopes it would show itself, it clouded over again! Nevertheless, the evening star show was spectacular. The swamps fed by mountain runoff attract a large variety of wetland species, and we were able to appreciate Black Egrets and Goliath Herons that were associating with the commoner marshland species. Groups of White Pelicans floated on the open water, and we were most fortunate to find two examples of the rare Chestnut-banded Plover. Taveta Golden Weavers at the northern extremity of their range and, sadly, in non-breeding dress came to see the group in a marshy area, and comical African Jacanas strode across the floating vegetation. The swamps were very healthy and recovering from the recent drought, and noisy and attractive African Fish-Eagles yodeled from remnant trees adjacent to the water as Two-banded Courser piped from the barren dusty landscape, Malachite Kingfishers waited patiently on papyrus stems and White-headed Buffalo-Weavers launched clumsily to reveal their red rumps. Closer to the lodge we saw the world’s heaviest flying bird, the Kori Bustard, foraging between the rooms. Toward the main gate we found Buff-crested Bustards and, after a very concentrated effort, eventually tracked down White-headed Mousebird and several Pygmy Falcons. Amongst the mammals we were also treated to Hippopotamus, Elephants, Rothchild’s Giraffe and the unusual Gerenuk. After a sumptuous meal we ventured out again in the afternoon. The Taveta Golden Weavers were now in the car-park of the grounds and, with the help of a Pearl-spotted Owlet, we called up an assortment of other arboreal species. On our drive around the marsh we were treated to the aerial mastery of Collared Pratincoles as beautiful Crowned Cranes responded with a quick two-step, followed by offspring mimicking their parents’ every move.
The following morning we flew to Nanyuki and, after a delicious cappuccino, continued on to Mountain Lodge in time for a wholesome lunch. The remainder of the day was spent birding from the rooftop. There was a good variety of birds in the bushes and passing overhead, and mammals such as African Buffalo and Bushbuck came and went along with smaller forest inhabitants like pestilent Syke’s Monkeys and lesser species like Large-spotted Genets and Cape Hares. The variety of birds kept the group entertained as numbers of impressive Silvery-cheeked Hornbills honked from the trees and Red-fronted Parrots flew in to preen before the sun set. In the evening the Tree Hyraxes commenced their insane screaming.
The following day we drove up Mt. Kenya to the Meteorological Station at 10,000 feet. Here we saw several very attractive Abyssinian Ground-Thrushes and sparkling Tacazze Sunbirds around the cabins. The endemic Jackson’s Francolins proved difficult to locate, but we finally caught up with them as we prepared to leave. Meanwhile, the group was introduced to a host of sub-alpine plant species that were new to them, although the genera were familiar. By late afternoon we were back on the rooftop at Mountain Lodge, where we observed a few more new species and remained until dark, when the nocturnal mammals put in their appearances. After a delicious feast, we settled down with our hot-water bottles for a comfortable night.
We woke to a cool and overcast morning. The alpine zone of Mt. Kenya was shrouded, but we could at least appreciate that it was not raining, and perhaps not as cold as it could have been. We departed at a slow pace, finding many new species along the roadside. Moustached Green Tinkerbirds called in the high canopy to challenge us from a clump of mistletoe, but they were very hard to see. Many Hartlaub’s Turacos were active and showy, however, gliding across clearings on their intensely crimson wings. We finally arrived for lunch at Naro Moru River Lodge, where we had a short rest before driving along the road bisecting Solio Ranch.
We traversed the same route the next morning, seeing much of what we had encountered the previous evening. Our next stop was a visit to Mackinder’s Eagle-Owls with well-grown offspring, which glared at us from a rock face on the other side of a quarry. At Ndaragwa we found a friendly party of Brown Woodland Warblers. A few secretive swamp birds were found at a swamp en route to Nyahururu, and in the Thomson’s Falls car-park were exquisite Tacazze Sunbirds. We continued on to the Lake Baringo Club where, in the evening, we enjoyed the sight of Hippos grazing on the lawn.
A morning walk around the garden gave us a number of new species, including many Madagascar Bee-eaters, Woodland Kingfishers and dazzling Beautiful Sunbirds. Breakfast was also punctuated by many new species coming to the bird table, Jackson’s Hornbill and several weaver species amongst them. After breakfast we spent the morning seeking out the local specialties. We patrolled the nearby cliffs and woodland to find Bristle-crowned Starlings, teetering Brown-tailed and bouncy Cliff Chats. With local assistance of the resident junior birders, we were able to appreciate Greyish Eagle-Owl, Heuglin’s Courser and Spotted Thick-knee all at their daytime retreats. After lunch we departed for Nakuru, enjoying the dry country birds and large, mating Leopard Tortoises on the way.
Mere words cannot convey the magical spectacle of Lake Nakuru’s Lesser Flamingos in the first rays of sunlight heralding the new day. This year they were accompanied by large numbers of Greater Flamingos. The lake was very busy with feeding cormorants, ducks, grebes, gulls and terns. The woodlands also held quite a variety of birds, including Black and Red-chested Cuckoos, Scaly-throated Honeyguides, Red-throated Wrynecks and the very local Grey-crested Helmet-Shrikes.
We left early the next morning to explore a recently visited area of high grasslands, where we were successful with three highland cisticolas – Levaillant’s, Wing-snapping and Aberdare. The Aberdare Cisticola was a Kenyan endemic, as were the attractive Sharpe’s Longclaws that we found at the same location. Our final new destination was the incomparable Maasai Mara. The journey required a day of travelling, punctuated by roadside stops for a few more new species such as reclusive Banded Prinias, curious Grey-throated Barbet and dowdy Stuhlmann’s Starlings. We were making good time, but after Lemek we were amazed to see a rushing torrent where the side of the road once was. There had been incredible local rain, and it is difficult to describe the vista of the plains turned into a temporary lake!
The next morning prior to breakfast we had an early morning walk in the lodge garden, where we found Ross’s Turaco, White-browed Robin-Chat and beautiful sprite-like Blue Flycatchers amongst an impressive variety of species. On the grassy swath in front of the fence there was a great array of plains mammals including African Elephant, Wildebeest and Masai Giraffe. After breakfast we spent the afternoon on the nearby Sabaringo Valley and Oloololo Escarpment. With some effort the area’s specialties were found, including the rare Ovampo Sparrowhawk. A drive to the edge of the escarpment provided a stunning view, overlooking the Maasai Mara and the winding Mara River far below us. Here we discovered the fluorescent Mwanza Flat-headed Agama. Following lunch and a short siesta we visited the Serena Oxbow Swamps, where we found a variety of waders and herons, as well as a comical Ground Hornbills.
Another early morning walk around the camp before breakfast rewarded us with a pair of Black-headed Gonoleks that arrived as vagrants from Lake Victoria and found the place to their liking. As we drove across the Mara we located a number of special western species, including Senegal Plover, Saddle-billed Storks, Bare-faced Go-Away Bird, Usambiro Barbet and Sooty Chat. The nighttime game drive at Siana Springs was interesting, producing not only Dusky but also Montane Nightjars, which provided incredible up-close and personal views as they rested on the ground in the spotlight. Of course there were mammals, too, with numerous Spring Hares, White-tailed Mongooses and Spotted Hyenas.
On the tour’s final morning we had a sortie into a local valley, finding Tabora Cisticolas and Magpie Shrikes at their only Kenyan location, as well as Green-capped Eremomela and dazzling Marico Sunbirds. Amongst the large variety of species many were now starting to become familiar – and it was time to leave!
We flew back to Nairobi after saying our goodbyes to Edwin, whose overland return was going to take a lot longer than our 40-minute trip. Not only did Edwin chauffer the group with expertise around central Kenya, but he was a veritable mine of information on all aspects of Kenyan life and a very capable birder and all-around naturalist with extremely sharp eyes, as he demonstrated on so many occasions.
After lunch and time for repacking, our group members met up for an early tasty meal prior to catching their respective flights back to the north. It had been a very successful tour and it was difficult to absorb all that we had seen in a mere two weeks, covering just a small portion of this most-birdy of countries. Only the participants will notice everything left out of this briefest of reports, for what we experienced would easily run into volumes!
- Brian Finch
November 2010
With two weeks of birding time, this central Kenyan tour may have been thought to have its limitations but the members were to find that in this country of endless wonder, new birds were still appearing up to our departure from the incomparable Maasai Mara. An impressive 589 species of birds were seen, of which a minor total of 15 species were heard only, so 604 forms were recorded by members of this fortunate group. These totals included no less than 13 game birds, 13 waterfowl, five storks, 52 birds of prey, nine hornbills, seven owls including three species of eagle-owls, nine nightjars, 18 cisticolas, 19 sunbirds, 17 starlings and 16 Ploceus weavers. Together with 60 species of mammals (excluding a few unidentified bats, shrews and rodents), the three large cats, other highlights were both rhinos, Ratel, both oryx, Cheetah, Bat-eared Fox and many more, and 23 identified reptiles and amphibians, including a four meter Rock Python in Nairobi National Park the first morning. A whole host of butterflies and dragonflies as well as the fascinating botanical fauna were pointed out, but the whole was just too much to take everything in!
All of this was experienced in the seclusion of luxurious lodges deep in the heart of prime birding country, offering not only comfort but the finest food that anyone could hope to find in the wilds of any country on this planet.
We spent all of the first day in Nairobi National Park, armed with a picnic lunch. Birds arrived even before we entered the gate, where Superb Starlings, White-winged Widowbirds, Red-billed Queleas, Speke’s Weavers and Pin-tailed Whydahs were being attracted to some rubbish. At the gate the group soon picked up Laughing and Dusky Turtle Doves, both species of oxpeckers and Little Swifts. Soon we were in the park, and birds came thick and fast through much of the day. Early sprinkling abated after some five minutes of our arrival, and the rest of the day was fine. Of the over 150 species seen, highlights included stately Ostrich, an obliging male Harlequin Quail, Black, Saddle-billed and the enormous Marabou Storks, Lesser Kestrels and an Amur Falcon, a handsome pair of Secretarybirds, dynamic Martial Eagle, four species of Bee-eaters, a good in-road into cisticolas, colorful Hildebrandt’s Starlings, several species of gem-like Sunbirds, equally stunning Red-collared and Jackson’s Widowbirds, rare Parasitic Weaver – a nice adult male – and the endemic Nairobi Pipit. Mammals were not ignored with a beautiful orange-maned Lion, both species of rhinoceros, Giraffe, Zebras, Wart-Hogs, buffalo and a host of mixed antelope species including the skulking, diminutive, forest-inhabiting Suni. As well as these wonderful sightings, we also had a stunning 14-foot Rock Python basking by the roadside. This was an extremely full day, with this paradise on Nairobi’s doorstep. We were back at our hotel only 15 minutes after leaving the park. The group was ecstatic with this introduction to eastern Africa’s varied wildlife, and we had only scratched the surface.
After a comfortable night, we had breakfast and departed from the hotel. Our first stop was Lukenya hill where we spent a fruitful couple of hours walking around the scrub and bushed grassland. There were three Verreaux’s Eagles doing aerobatics along the rock face, one of which was immature, so it was so good to see that breeding had been successful. In the bushes we soon picked up local specialties like Red-throated Tit, Bush Pipit and Southern Grosbeak Canary. The scrub was alive with birds, but not many migrants. There were a couple of Eurasian Rock-Thrushes, a Nightingale and a Tree Pipit, but that was about it. Banded Parisomas were very noisy, Speckle-fronted and Grey-capped Social-Weavers were busying themselves at their nests. African Hoopoes were investigating a tree hollow, and many birds were sitting on the tree-tops and easily seen. After a scenic drive on which we found a pair of African Hawk-Eagles, Booted and Long-crested Eagles and a Lizard Buzzard we finally arrived at Mtito Andei, first looking at a seasonal pool. Here Straw-tailed Whydah in resplendent breeding dress dropped in to quench its thirst, a pair of Grey-headed Bush-Shrikes was cavorting noisily in the trees, a Mottled Spinetail also called in for a drink and a Red-chested Cuckoo and African Scimitarbill were in the bushes. A pair of Golden-breasted Starlings were excavating a tree-hole and Southern Black Flycatchers fed alongside their look-alike Drongos, Black Cuckoo-shrike and Slate-colored Boubous. At the entrance to Tsavo West we stopped to look at the garden area around the museum. Here there were a tame pair of Black-headed Plovers and a shy Black Cuckoo, and the bushes were alive with a great assortment of birds which included migrant Basra Reed, Olivaceous and Barred Warblers, both Northern and Red-faced Crombecs, Eastern Violet-backed, Tsavo and Hunter’s Sunbirds, Pygmy Batis, Bare-eyed Thrush and many, many more. We started our journey through the park to Ngulia with many distractions. An adult and an immature Sooty Falcon flew over the road, which was lined with Eurasian Rollers. At dusk some 40 nightjars of four species came out on to the road and provided excellent views, as well as a Blotched Genet and a Spotted Hyena. At the lodge there was a Greater Galago in the dining room, which also had a Eurasian Nightjar perched on a beam, and we watched a Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl drop to the ground and secure a large frog. After a tasty meal we retired having had a very full and exciting day.
On our third day, we had an early breakfast and on setting out there was a very light sprinkle of rain, but this very soon cleared up to a sunny, but not-too-hot morning. Birds were slow to wake up, but from 8 a.m. things got really active and continued much that way until 12:30 p.m. when we returned for a tasty lunch. The bushes were full of sprossers and whitethroats, and amongst these migrants were many Spotted Flycatchers, Barred and Olivaceous Warblers and migrant shrikes. Of the local specialties, diligence rewarded us with excellent views of several of the skulkers such as Scaly Chatterer, Red-naped Bush-Shrike and Pringle’s Puffback. More conspicuous were a number of Straw-tailed and Eastern Paradise Whydahs. We found most of the species characteristic of the Somali-biome and were equally fortunate with Vulturine Guineafowl feeding on the road and Pale Prinia, both at the extreme southern part of their ranges. Pearl-spotted Owlets assisted by attracting most impressive assortments of otherwise difficult to locate species. After an afternoon siesta we went out until it was getting dark. We stopped at a series of pools where there was a beautiful Leopard drinking, whilst a Leopard Tortoise was coming down the bank presumably to drink. There were a number of waders, and six species of swallows were landing by the car where they were picking up some food item from the ground. We watched a Pied Kingfisher after some effort dispatch a fish that obviously looked too large for it, a Black Crake sunning itself, and Golden-backed Weavers at their nest. We amassed a large variety of species as we passed from pond to pond, before turning back to the lodge where a Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl entertained us during dinner and a Leopard arrived after the meal.
After another dry night, there had been some mist and a few migrants were in front of the dining room. A female Eurasian Sparrowhawk flew low over the bushes, and an Upcher’s Warbler was feeding inside another. There were a few Eurasian Rollers in the sky and above the mist the day looked clear and blue. After breakfast we returned to the low country, adding a few species not recorded yesterday, such as a very tame Grasshopper Buzzard, Black-necked Weaver and Blue-capped Cordon-bleu. Although we saw a great variety, most were old friends as we had been rather thorough yesterday. We left for Chyulu Gate, stopping for a Red-winged Lark that caused us to hear the extremely rare Friedmann’s Lark. We managed to find three in this area. At the gate we found Black-headed Batis and Black-bellied Sunbird. Along the road as we headed off for Amboseli there was rain ahead of us, and when we got to the area that had received the downpour we found the amazing spectacle of some 2500 Amur Falcons feeding over the bushes and ground, presumably finding emerging flying insects. Also attracted by this feast were three Eleonora’s and two Sooty Falcons. On our way again, and the next spectacle was a breeding colony of about 40 White-fronted Bee-eaters whilst at the fast-disappearing piece of woodland. We still managed to find Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Grey-olive Greenbul and Red-capped Robin-Chat. After this we continued our travels passing several more flocks of spiralling Amur Falcons before arriving at the entrance to Amboseli National Park.
Mt. Kilimanjaro was covered by a cloud layer although clear in the light of the full moon the previous evening. It was lightly overcast first thing, as we birded in the car-park of the lodge. Here we found Amboseli’s only really special species, a colony of the exaggeratedly golden Taveta Golden Weavers. We also found what must be the world’s most extravert Nightingales, as well as our first rainbow-hued Beautiful Sunbirds and somewhat dowdy Buff-bellied Warblers. We tried to leave the compound, but a ridiculously insignificant piece of disturbed ground held our attention for half an hour. We sat in the vehicle whilst finding Eurasian Hoopoe, Pangani Longclaw, White Wagtail and Crimson-rumped Waxbill amongst other species we had already encountered. Heading out to the swamps, this was our first exposure to waterbirds, and we were not to be disappointed. Numerous waders and ducks included interesting species like Little Ringed Plover, Two-banded Courser, Spur-winged Goose and Fulvous Whistling-Duck. Whilst watching these there was a Cheetah trotting along on the other side of the lake, which also had a few Black-winged Pratincoles in amongst the Common Pratincoles, and singles of Greater Flamingo and Black-necked Grebe. Fish Eagles and Eurasian Marsh Harriers patrolled whilst both Northern Hobby and Peregine appeared overhead. On a nearby grassy plain we were very successful in finding many Athi Short-toed, Short-tailed and Singing Bushlarks, and having all three species feeding right alongside the vehicle. There were also a plethora of Fischer’s Sparrowlarks and Red-capped Larks. Driving out towards the main entrance gate we also added two more lark species for the day’s talley with Fawn-colored and Pink-breasted. At the entrance there was a puddle where the gate had been washed, and the birds had found it. Numerous African Silverbills and Chestnut Sparrows were being joined by a few Grey-headed Silverbills, and numbers of Cut-throats and Chestnut Weavers. Unfortunately, try as we might we could not locate White-headed Mousebird, but in the scrub we did locate a pair of Rufous Scrub-Robins which conveniently landed above a pair of Spotted Thickknees, that we hadn’t noticed. We had a short siesta after a very delicious lunch, and visited some different swamps in the afternoon. Apart from some 400 Elephants which naturally stole quite a bit of the limelight, we had Black Herons, three species of terns, a nice flock of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters, Pallid Harrier, a sadly solitary Amur Falcon and a huge assortment of other waterbirds. Returning to the lodge we waited for the on-cue appearance of Slender-tailed Nightjars, and were equally entertained by a trio of Yellow-winged Bats. A very nice meal was followed by another comfortable night.
The mountain was clear when we got up, and stayed that way until we left Amboseli. We had decided to have another go for White-headed Mousebird before catching the flight at 9 a.m., and this time had great success with two birds alongside the car. Other highlights were lots of sandgrouse coming in to drink, with Yellow-throated, Chestnut-bellied and Black-faced all together on the road. A Kori Bustard, larger than the gazelles it was accompanying, was also our first encounter with this impressive species. We caught the flight to Nanyuki via Nairobi, then after a welcome coffee interlude, drove up to Mountain Lodge. There was a heavy downpour, but the forest was rather quiet although a couple of male Oriole Finches performed well. There were a few new birds, but it was all rather low key. In the evening we had a sumptuous meal, then retired for the evening.
On the next morning we had a pre-breakfast birdwatch from the roof of Mountain Lodge. Mount Kenya was clear and very impressive as we watched a Marabou on the birdtable pecking at a piece of meat that had been supper for a Genet the previous night. A Black Stork was fishing for his breakfast, a line of Red-billed Oxpeckers on the roof awaited the arrival of the buffalo for their breakfast, and a number of species were looking for insects attracted by the light, including Grey-capped Warbler, five duetting Hunter’s Cisticolas on the same twig and some arresting Kandt’s Waxbills. A White-starred Robin was along the boardwalk as we met in the car-park. A few birds were seen on the roadside as we departed from the lodge, and on the main road were dramatic Long-tailed Widowbirds in full breeding dress together with Red-collared and Jackson’s Widowbirds. The road was in good condition as we climbed up to the meteorological station at 10,000 feet. On the entry and the return we had an amazing 26 Jackson’s Francolins, and whilst on the mountain we found highland specialties such as Hill Chat, Tacazze Sunbird and Mountain Yellow Warblers. We arrived back in the lodge shortly before dinner and had a high cuisine before retiring for the night.
Our last morning on the lodge roof gave us Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon and Kenrick’s Starling which had hitherto eluded us. On the road leaving the lodge we found displaying Cuckoo-Hawk, Moustached Tinkerbirds and Alpine Swifts. Some magnificent Black-and-White Colobus were also posing by the roadside. Birding on the way to Naro Moru for lunch we stopped at a dam where apart from a variety of waterbirds were some fifty Quailfinch coming in to drink. Both Common and Lesser Kestrels were hovering over the adjacent field. The mountain which had been so photogenic in the morning was disappearing under a heavy cloud-cover. In the afternoon we had a look on the nearby Solio Plains finding some very confiding Greater Kestrels and Amur Falcons, as well as all three migrant Harriers, hundreds of Black-winged and a very welcome 150 Caspian Plovers. In the evening we returned to the lodge.
We had a pre-breakfast stroll around Naro Moru River Lodge, seeing a large variety of species including arresting Hartlaub’s Turacos, Crowned Hornbill, the interesting vepres race of Back-lored Babbler, and an array of colorful sunbirds. Crossing the Solio Plains again we found a number of species seen the previous evening, and soon after had a rendezvous with a pair of Mackinder’s Eagle Owls and also an encounter with a Red-throated Wryneck. At another swamp were some forty Long-tailed Widowbirds, whist afternoon tea at Thomson’s Falls was spiced up with a flock of Slender-billed Starlings. Our last birds of the day were some stunning Golden-winged Sunbirds before we descended into the Rift Valley.
Waking up at Baringo, our first walk was in the gardens. The lake was very full and there was no shoreline, and every trace of the forest that was along the bank has gone. We found the gardens’ specialties, Jackson’s Hornbills, Brown Babblers, White-billed Buffalo-Weavers and Northern Masked Weavers. Dozing by the trunk of a tree was an African Scops Owl, but the Pearl-spotted Owlet failed to attract anything of interest. The bird-table was very entertaining, and from here we left for the nearby cliffs readily finding Hemprich’s Hornbills, Brown-tailed Rock Chat and Lead-colored Flycatchers, but pride of place went to a male Levant Sparrowhawk. Near here we easily found Greyish Eagle-Owl and a family of Heuglin’s Coursers whilst an Olive Tree Warbler was a bonus. Another stop for a search for a Star-spotted Nightjar found the previous day was successful, not only for this but also a beautiful Nubian and three posing Slender-tailed Nightjars. Before returning for lunch we finished up with a pair of Northern White-faced Scops Owls and close views of three Liechtenstein’s Sandgrouse. After lunch another look at the jetty rewarded with three Northern Carmine Bee-eaters amongst the Blue-cheeks. On leaving we stopped at the Equator, ending the day with a rest by the lakeshore at Lake Nakuru with numerous Flamingos of both species and Great White Pelicans in resplendent pink breeding colors. The delicious meal rounded off the end to a full and perfect day.
Our full day at Nakuru was almost too much to take in. We spent much time around the lakeshore finding many new birds, mostly with a widespread distribution. Away from the shore we looked for Schalow’s Wheatear, found an adult Lesser Moorhen and also enjoyed the mammal spectacle with both species of rhinos, Hippos, Lions… You name it! With a total of over 160 species for the day, the birds were far from overlooked.
In the morning we immediately found the Little Rock Thrush which had hitherto been eluding us. Unlike the previous grey and gloomy start to the day, this morning was stunningly beautiful with a glorious sunrise and all the birds were appreciating it. The forest that was quiet yesterday was now alive, with mixed flocks containing new species for the tour, a party of five Grey-crested Helmetshrikes, a watchful Broad-billed Roller and busy Bearded Woodpecker were a few of them. We departed Nakuru heading towards Njoro, a Mosque Swallow was flying with some Red-rumps, Levaillant’s Cisticolas were easy at a large swamp, and on our detour into the highland grasslands, Sharpe’s Longclaw and both Aberdare and Wing-snapping Cisticolas were not too challenging. Some dazzling Malachite Sunbirds were also in the roadside vegetation, just incandescent in the morning light. From here we looked at a small patch of forest near Kericho where there were many Stuhlmann’s Starlings feeding in the trees, as well as White-chinned Prinia and Luhder’s Bush-Shrike. We had one more stop for Yellow-backed Weaver, finally arriving at Kichwa Tembo at 8:30 p.m., in time for dinner and a good night’s sleep.
Another sunny morning, and a check on the lawn showed that there were many species present. Violet-backed Starlings were glowing as shafts of sunlight illuminated them. Flaming Double-toothed Barbet shared a fruiting tree with other species whilst the bright azure sylph-like Blue Flycatchers danced around them. The plains to the front of the lawn were a spectacle of mammals of numerous species, including late-retiring Hippo and stately Giraffes whilst a pair of Secretarybirds were seeing what they could find. After a wonderful breakfast with world-class muesli, we investigated the adjacent escarpment. The biggest surprise here was a group of eight Crested Guineafowls. Also there were some 25 Grey-throated Barbets gorging themselves in a feeding frenzy in a fruiting tree. There were a few Yellow-bellied Hyliotas, Trilling Cisticolas, Green-capped Eremomelas, Pale Wren Warblers and Red-tailed Chats in exactly the same spot. On the descent we stumbled on Brown-backed Scrub-Robin, a first for the Mara but which had been around for some months now. After lunch we looked at the Oloololo Plains, which were not too birdy, nevertheless we did find Southern Ground-Hornbills, Hooded Vulture and watched cavorting Hippos and less active Crocodiles.
The next day as we birded in the garden for a couple of hours, there were many interesting things going on. Black-and-White Casqued Hornbills fed on small fruits, Ross’s Turacos glided across the forest on crimson wings, and we admired the equally red Black-headed Gonoleks. Leaving here we traversed the Mara with over 150 Steppe Eagles feeding on termite mounds on the plains, Rufous-bellied Herons with numerous other marsh birds in the swamps, hordes of plains game and three wonderful Cheetahs.
Our final morning was in the Siana Valley where after a wet night there was a lot of activity. Magpie Shrikes were very noisy and dancing in small groups and Africa’s smallest birds, (Buff-bellied) Penduline-Tits, were tending a nest. On leaving Siana for the airstrip our final bird was Swahili Sparrow. We flew back to Nairobi, and after lunch and time for repacking, the group met up for an early tasty meal prior to catching their respective flights back to the north.
It had been a very successful bird tour, difficult to absorb all that we had seen in a mere two weeks covering a small part of the world’s birdiest of countries known as Kenya. Only the participants will notice everything left out of this briefest of reports, as what we had experienced would easily run into volumes.
- Brian Finch
With two weeks of birding time, this central Kenyan tour may have been thought to have its limitations but the members were to find that in this country of endless wonder, new birds were still appearing up to our departure from the incomparable Maasai Mara. An impressive 589 species of birds were seen, of which a minor total of 15 species were heard only, so 604 forms were recorded by members of this fortunate group. These totals included no less than 13 game birds, 13 waterfowl, five storks, 52 birds of prey, nine hornbills, seven owls including three species of eagle-owls, nine nightjars, 18 cisticolas, 19 sunbirds, 17 starlings and 16 Ploceus weavers. Together with 60 species of mammals (excluding a few unidentified bats, shrews and rodents), the three large cats, other highlights were both rhinos, Ratel, both oryx, Cheetah, Bat-eared Fox and many more, and 23 identified reptiles and amphibians, including a four meter Rock Python in Nairobi National Park the first morning. A whole host of butterflies and dragonflies as well as the fascinating botanical fauna were pointed out, but the whole was just too much to take everything in!
All of this was experienced in the seclusion of luxurious lodges deep in the heart of prime birding country, offering not only comfort but the finest food that anyone could hope to find in the wilds of any country on this planet.
Edwin not only chauffeured the group around central Kenya, but was a veritable mine of information on all aspects of Kenyan life and a very capable birder and all round naturalist with extremely sharp eyes, as he demonstrated on so many occasions.
We spent all of the first day in Nairobi National Park, armed with a picnic lunch. Birds arrived even before we entered the gate, where Superb Starlings, White-winged Widowbirds, Red-billed Queleas, Speke’s Weavers and Pin-tailed Whydahs were being attracted to some rubbish. At the gate the group soon picked up Laughing and Dusky Turtle Doves, both species of oxpeckers and Little Swifts. Soon we were in the park, and birds came thick and fast through much of the day. Early sprinkling abated after some five minutes of our arrival, and the rest of the day was fine. Of the over 150 species seen, highlights included stately Ostrich, an obliging male Harlequin Quail, Black, Saddle-billed and the enormous Marabou Storks, Lesser Kestrels and an Amur Falcon, a handsome pair of Secretarybirds, dynamic Martial Eagle, four species of Bee-eaters, a good in-road into cisticolas, colorful Hildebrandt’s Starlings, several species of gem-like Sunbirds, equally stunning Red-collared and Jackson’s Widowbirds, rare Parasitic Weaver – a nice adult male – and the endemic Nairobi Pipit. Mammals were not ignored with a beautiful orange-maned Lion, both species of rhinoceros, Giraffe, Zebras, Wart-Hogs, buffalo and a host of mixed antelope species including the skulking, diminutive, forest-inhabiting Suni. As well as these wonderful sightings, we also had a stunning 14-foot Rock Python basking by the roadside. This was an extremely full day, with this paradise on Nairobi’s doorstep. We were back at our hotel only 15 minutes after leaving the park. The group was ecstatic with this introduction to eastern Africa’s varied wildlife, and we had only scratched the surface.
After a comfortable night, we had breakfast and departed from the hotel. Our first stop was Lukenya hill where we spent a fruitful couple of hours walking around the scrub and bushed grassland. There were three Verreaux’s Eagles doing aerobatics along the rock face, one of which was immature, so it was so good to see that breeding had been successful. In the bushes we soon picked up local specialties like Red-throated Tit, Bush Pipit and Southern Grosbeak Canary. The scrub was alive with birds, but not many migrants. There were a couple of Eurasian Rock-Thrushes, a Nightingale and a Tree Pipit, but that was about it. Banded Parisomas were very noisy, Speckle-fronted and Grey-capped Social-Weavers were busying themselves at their nests. African Hoopoes were investigating a tree hollow, and many birds were sitting on the tree-tops and easily seen. After a scenic drive on which we found a pair of African Hawk-Eagles, Booted and Long-crested Eagles and a Lizard Buzzard we finally arrived at Mtito Andei, first looking at a seasonal pool. Here Straw-tailed Whydah in resplendent breeding dress dropped in to quench its thirst, a pair of Grey-headed Bush-Shrikes was cavorting noisily in the trees, a Mottled Spinetail also called in for a drink and a Red-chested Cuckoo and African Scimitarbill were in the bushes. A pair of Golden-breasted Starlings were excavating a tree-hole and Southern Black Flycatchers fed alongside their look-alike Drongos, Black Cuckoo-shrike and Slate-colored Boubous. At the entrance to Tsavo West we stopped to look at the garden area around the museum. Here there were a tame pair of Black-headed Plovers and a shy Black Cuckoo, and the bushes were alive with a great assortment of birds which included migrant Basra Reed, Olivaceous and Barred Warblers, both Northern and Red-faced Crombecs, Eastern Violet-backed, Tsavo and Hunter’s Sunbirds, Pygmy Batis, Bare-eyed Thrush and many, many more. We started our journey through the park to Ngulia with many distractions. An adult and an immature Sooty Falcon flew over the road, which was lined with Eurasian Rollers. At dusk some 40 nightjars of four species came out on to the road and provided excellent views, as well as a Blotched Genet and a Spotted Hyena. At the lodge there was a Greater Galago in the dining room, which also had a Eurasian Nightjar perched on a beam, and we watched a Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl drop to the ground and secure a large frog. After a tasty meal we retired having had a very full and exciting day.
On our third day, we had an early breakfast and on setting out there was a very light sprinkle of rain, but this very soon cleared up to a sunny, but not-too-hot morning. Birds were slow to wake up, but from 8 a.m. things got really active and continued much that way until 12:30 p.m. when we returned for a tasty lunch. The bushes were full of sprossers and whitethroats, and amongst these migrants were many Spotted Flycatchers, Barred and Olivaceous Warblers and migrant shrikes. Of the local specialties, diligence rewarded us with excellent views of several of the skulkers such as Scaly Chatterer, Red-naped Bush-Shrike and Pringle’s Puffback. More conspicuous were a number of Straw-tailed and Eastern Paradise Whydahs. We found most of the species characteristic of the Somali-biome and were equally fortunate with Vulturine Guineafowl feeding on the road and Pale Prinia, both at the extreme southern part of their ranges. Pearl-spotted Owlets assisted by attracting most impressive assortments of otherwise difficult to locate species. After an afternoon siesta we went out until it was getting dark. We stopped at a series of pools where there was a beautiful Leopard drinking, whilst a Leopard Tortoise was coming down the bank presumably to drink. There were a number of waders, and six species of swallows were landing by the car where they were picking up some food item from the ground. We watched a Pied Kingfisher after some effort dispatch a fish that obviously looked too large for it, a Black Crake sunning itself, and Golden-backed Weavers at their nest. We amassed a large variety of species as we passed from pond to pond, before turning back to the lodge where a Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl entertained us during dinner and a Leopard arrived after the meal.
After another dry night, there had been some mist and a few migrants were in front of the dining room. A female Eurasian Sparrowhawk flew low over the bushes, and an Upcher’s Warbler was feeding inside another. There were a few Eurasian Rollers in the sky and above the mist the day looked clear and blue. After breakfast we returned to the low country, adding a few species not recorded yesterday, such as a very tame Grasshopper Buzzard, Black-necked Weaver and Blue-capped Cordon-bleu. Although we saw a great variety, most were old friends as we had been rather thorough yesterday. We left for Chyulu Gate, stopping for a Red-winged Lark that caused us to hear the extremely rare Friedmann’s Lark. We managed to find three in this area. At the gate we found Black-headed Batis and Black-bellied Sunbird. Along the road as we headed off for Amboseli there was rain ahead of us, and when we got to the area that had received the downpour we found the amazing spectacle of some 2500 Amur Falcons feeding over the bushes and ground, presumably finding emerging flying insects. Also attracted by this feast were three Eleonora’s and two Sooty Falcons. On our way again, and the next spectacle was a breeding colony of about 40 White-fronted Bee-eaters whilst at the fast-disappearing piece of woodland. We still managed to find Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Grey-olive Greenbul and Red-capped Robin-Chat. After this we continued our travels passing several more flocks of spiralling Amur Falcons before arriving at the entrance to Amboseli National Park.
Mt. Kilimanjaro was covered by a cloud layer although clear in the light of the full moon the previous evening. It was lightly overcast first thing, as we birded in the car-park of the lodge. Here we found Amboseli’s only really special species, a colony of the exaggeratedly golden Taveta Golden Weavers. We also found what must be the world’s most extravert Nightingales, as well as our first rainbow-hued Beautiful Sunbirds and somewhat dowdy Buff-bellied Warblers. We tried to leave the compound, but a ridiculously insignificant piece of disturbed ground held our attention for half an hour. We sat in the vehicle whilst finding Eurasian Hoopoe, Pangani Longclaw, White Wagtail and Crimson-rumped Waxbill amongst other species we had already encountered. Heading out to the swamps, this was our first exposure to waterbirds, and we were not to be disappointed. Numerous waders and ducks included interesting species like Little Ringed Plover, Two-banded Courser, Spur-winged Goose and Fulvous Whistling-Duck. Whilst watching these there was a Cheetah trotting along on the other side of the lake, which also had a few Black-winged Pratincoles in amongst the Common Pratincoles, and singles of Greater Flamingo and Black-necked Grebe. Fish Eagles and Eurasian Marsh Harriers patrolled whilst both Northern Hobby and Peregine appeared overhead. On a nearby grassy plain we were very successful in finding many Athi Short-toed, Short-tailed and Singing Bushlarks, and having all three species feeding right alongside the vehicle. There were also a plethora of Fischer’s Sparrowlarks and Red-capped Larks. Driving out towards the main entrance gate we also added two more lark species for the day’s talley with Fawn-colored and Pink-breasted. At the entrance there was a puddle where the gate had been washed, and the birds had found it. Numerous African Silverbills and Chestnut Sparrows were being joined by a few Grey-headed Silverbills, and numbers of Cut-throats and Chestnut Weavers. Unfortunately, try as we might we could not locate White-headed Mousebird, but in the scrub we did locate a pair of Rufous Scrub-Robins which conveniently landed above a pair of Spotted Thickknees, that we hadn’t noticed. We had a short siesta after a very delicious lunch, and visited some different swamps in the afternoon. Apart from some 400 Elephants which naturally stole quite a bit of the limelight, we had Black Herons, three species of terns, a nice flock of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters, Pallid Harrier, a sadly solitary Amur Falcon and a huge assortment of other waterbirds. Returning to the lodge we waited for the on-cue appearance of Slender-tailed Nightjars, and were equally entertained by a trio of Yellow-winged Bats. A very nice meal was followed by another comfortable night.
The mountain was clear when we got up, and stayed that way until we left Amboseli. We had decided to have another go for White-headed Mousebird before catching the flight at 9 a.m., and this time had great success with two birds alongside the car. Other highlights were lots of sandgrouse coming in to drink, with Yellow-throated, Chestnut-bellied and Black-faced all together on the road. A Kori Bustard, larger than the gazelles it was accompanying, was also our first encounter with this impressive species. We caught the flight to Nanyuki via Nairobi, then after a welcome coffee interlude, drove up to Mountain Lodge. There was a heavy downpour, but the forest was rather quiet although a couple of male Oriole Finches performed well. There were a few new birds, but it was all rather low key. In the evening we had a sumptuous meal, then retired for the evening.
On the next morning we had a pre-breakfast birdwatch from the roof of Mountain Lodge. Mount Kenya was clear and very impressive as we watched a Marabou on the birdtable pecking at a piece of meat that had been supper for a Genet the previous night. A Black Stork was fishing for his breakfast, a line of Red-billed Oxpeckers on the roof awaited the arrival of the buffalo for their breakfast, and a number of species were looking for insects attracted by the light, including Grey-capped Warbler, five duetting Hunter’s Cisticolas on the same twig and some arresting Kandt’s Waxbills. A White-starred Robin was along the boardwalk as we met in the car-park. A few birds were seen on the roadside as we departed from the lodge, and on the main road were dramatic Long-tailed Widowbirds in full breeding dress together with Red-collared and Jackson’s Widowbirds. The road was in good condition as we climbed up to the meteorological station at 10,000 feet. On the entry and the return we had an amazing 26 Jackson’s Francolins, and whilst on the mountain we found highland specialties such as Hill Chat, Tacazze Sunbird and Mountain Yellow Warblers. We arrived back in the lodge shortly before dinner and had a high cuisine before retiring for the night.
Our last morning on the lodge roof gave us Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon and Kenrick’s Starling which had hitherto eluded us. On the road leaving the lodge we found displaying Cuckoo-Hawk, Moustached Tinkerbirds and Alpine Swifts. Some magnificent Black-and-White Colobus were also posing by the roadside. Birding on the way to Naro Moru for lunch we stopped at a dam where apart from a variety of waterbirds were some fifty Quailfinch coming in to drink. Both Common and Lesser Kestrels were hovering over the adjacent field. The mountain which had been so photogenic in the morning was disappearing under a heavy cloud-cover. In the afternoon we had a look on the nearby Solio Plains finding some very confiding Greater Kestrels and Amur Falcons, as well as all three migrant Harriers, hundreds of Black-winged and a very welcome 150 Caspian Plovers. In the evening we returned to the lodge.
We had a pre-breakfast stroll around Naro Moru River Lodge, seeing a large variety of species including arresting Hartlaub’s Turacos, Crowned Hornbill, the interesting vepres race of Back-lored Babbler, and an array of colorful sunbirds. Crossing the Solio Plains again we found a number of species seen the previous evening, and soon after had a rendezvous with a pair of Mackinder’s Eagle Owls and also an encounter with a Red-throated Wryneck. At another swamp were some forty Long-tailed Widowbirds, whist afternoon tea at Thomson’s Falls was spiced up with a flock of Slender-billed Starlings. Our last birds of the day were some stunning Golden-winged Sunbirds before we descended into the Rift Valley.
Waking up at Baringo, our first walk was in the gardens. The lake was very full and there was no shoreline, and every trace of the forest that was along the bank has gone. We found the gardens’ specialties, Jackson’s Hornbills, Brown Babblers, White-billed Buffalo-Weavers and Northern Masked Weavers. Dozing by the trunk of a tree was an African Scops Owl, but the Pearl-spotted Owlet failed to attract anything of interest. The bird-table was very entertaining, and from here we left for the nearby cliffs readily finding Hemprich’s Hornbills, Brown-tailed Rock Chat and Lead-colored Flycatchers, but pride of place went to a male Levant Sparrowhawk. Near here we easily found Greyish Eagle-Owl and a family of Heuglin’s Coursers whilst an Olive Tree Warbler was a bonus. Another stop for a search for a Star-spotted Nightjar found the previous day was successful, not only for this but also a beautiful Nubian and three posing Slender-tailed Nightjars. Before returning for lunch we finished up with a pair of Northern White-faced Scops Owls and close views of three Liechtenstein’s Sandgrouse. After lunch another look at the jetty rewarded with three Northern Carmine Bee-eaters amongst the Blue-cheeks. On leaving we stopped at the Equator, ending the day with a rest by the lakeshore at Lake Nakuru with numerous Flamingos of both species and Great White Pelicans in resplendent pink breeding colors. The delicious meal rounded off the end to a full and perfect day.
Our full day at Nakuru was almost too much to take in. We spent much time around the lakeshore finding many new birds, mostly with a widespread distribution. Away from the shore we looked for Schalow’s Wheatear, found an adult Lesser Moorhen and also enjoyed the mammal spectacle with both species of rhinos, Hippos, Lions… You name it! With a total of over 160 species for the day, the birds were far from overlooked.
In the morning we immediately found the Little Rock Thrush which had hitherto been eluding us. Unlike the previous grey and gloomy start to the day, this morning was stunningly beautiful with a glorious sunrise and all the birds were appreciating it. The forest that was quiet yesterday was now alive, with mixed flocks containing new species for the tour, a party of five Grey-crested Helmetshrikes, a watchful Broad-billed Roller and busy Bearded Woodpecker were a few of them. We departed Nakuru heading towards Njoro, a Mosque Swallow was flying with some Red-rumps, Levaillant’s Cisticolas were easy at a large swamp, and on our detour into the highland grasslands, Sharpe’s Longclaw and both Aberdare and Wing-snapping Cisticolas were not too challenging. Some dazzling Malachite Sunbirds were also in the roadside vegetation, just incandescent in the morning light. From here we looked at a small patch of forest near Kericho where there were many Stuhlmann’s Starlings feeding in the trees, as well as White-chinned Prinia and Luhder’s Bush-Shrike. We had one more stop for Yellow-backed Weaver, finally arriving at Kichwa Tembo at 8:30 p.m., in time for dinner and a good night’s sleep.
Another sunny morning, and a check on the lawn showed that there were many species present. Violet-backed Starlings were glowing as shafts of sunlight illuminated them. Flaming Double-toothed Barbet shared a fruiting tree with other species whilst the bright azure sylph-like Blue Flycatchers danced around them. The plains to the front of the lawn were a spectacle of mammals of numerous species, including late-retiring Hippo and stately Giraffes whilst a pair of Secretarybirds were seeing what they could find. After a wonderful breakfast with world-class muesli, we investigated the adjacent escarpment. The biggest surprise here was a group of eight Crested Guineafowls. Also there were some 25 Grey-throated Barbets gorging themselves in a feeding frenzy in a fruiting tree. There were a few Yellow-bellied Hyliotas, Trilling Cisticolas, Green-capped Eremomelas, Pale Wren Warblers and Red-tailed Chats in exactly the same spot. On the descent we stumbled on Brown-backed Scrub-Robin, a first for the Mara but which had been around for some months now. After lunch we looked at the Oloololo Plains, which were not too birdy, nevertheless we did find Southern Ground-Hornbills, Hooded Vulture and watched cavorting Hippos and less active Crocodiles.
The next day as we birded in the garden for a couple of hours, there were many interesting things going on. Black-and-White Casqued Hornbills fed on small fruits, Ross’s Turacos glided across the forest on crimson wings, and we admired the equally red Black-headed Gonoleks. Leaving here we traversed the Mara with over 150 Steppe Eagles feeding on termite mounds on the plains, Rufous-bellied Herons with numerous other marsh birds in the swamps, hordes of plains game and three wonderful Cheetahs.
Our final morning was in the Siana Valley where after a wet night there was a lot of activity. Magpie Shrikes were very noisy and dancing in small groups and Africa’s smallest birds, (Buff-bellied) Penduline-Tits, were tending a nest. On leaving Siana for the airstrip our final bird was Swahili Sparrow. We flew back to Nairobi, first farewelling Edwin who had to return overland, a journey that would take a lot longer than our 50-minute flight. After lunch and time for repacking, the group met up for an early tasty meal prior to catching their respective flights back to the north.
It had been a very successful bird tour, difficult to absorb all that we had seen in a mere two weeks covering a small part of the world’s birdiest of countries known as Kenya. Only the participants will notice everything left out of this briefest of reports, as what we had experienced would easily run into volumes.
- Brian Finch
December 2010
Updated: October 2011