Tour Narratives
February 2012
Only with the help of a GPS unit did we realize that a 90-minute drive along a bumpy dirt road carried us only four kilometers from our starting point and a scant 200 meters higher in elevation. But within those short distances on the shoulders of the Andes of northwestern Ecuador, the birdlife changed dramatically and the huge diversity supported by the Neotropical forests was as clear as manakins’ wing-snaps. From the high-Andes just below tree line to the hot and sticky lowland rainforest, we managed more than 300 species – from inconspicuous fruiteaters to dazzling mountain-tanagers and a dizzying array of hummingbirds.
On the first morning we left Quito in the dark for the heights of the Volcán Pichincha and the Reserva Yanacocha, an elfin forest near tree line. It was our first introduction to a number of bird families we would continuously encounter for the remainder of the week, but species we wouldn’t see again: the impossibly proportioned Sword-billed Hummingbird, for example, or the mixed flocks of mountain-tanagers including Hooded, Crimson-bellied and Black-chested. Rounding out the morning at high elevation were the two Andean Condors that came lazily circling over us as we attempted to eat lunch in the parking lot of the reserve. From there we descended through the Tandayapa Valley along the old road to Séptimo Paraiso – Seventh Heaven – situated in a valley of primary cloud forest and our home for the week.
The next day began in the grounds of our lodge where the lights along the driveway had collected a night’s-worth of moths – breakfast for the birds. Immaculate Antbirds were a treat sneaking out of their dense vegetation strongholds. We caught up with a nice mixed flock, too. Beryl-spangled Tanagers, Metallic-green Tanagers and Scaly-throated Foliage-Gleaner were working their way through with about a dozen other species that we could identify before they moved along. All the while the fruit feeders in front of the lodge were hosting a feast of Toucan Barbets and Black-winged Saltators. After lunch we drove through Mindo town to the two rivers that flow beyond. It often happens that the best birding is unexpected, and our stop on a block at the edge of town turned into “The Hook-billed Kite spot” as we watched two of these raptors use their predatory skills to glean fruit from the treetops.
Along that same line, we took off early the next day for the Mashpi Road, further proof that birding destinations aren’t necessarily parks or reserves, but simply: where the birds are. The road drops down through a forest on both sides and is the only place in Ecuador for Indigo Flowerpiercer (we saw at least three). Glistening-green Tanagers and a pair of Orange-breasted Fruiteaters were also a big treat. Small, colorful and cooperative Ornate Flycatchers dotted the roadside vegetation. The flocks were fantastic and all from the good visibility of a quiet roadside.
The next day began with another early morning and again we went down in elevation, this time down as far as the lowland Chocó rainforest to the Rio Silanche reserve. Though the entrance road passed through fragmented forest and agricultural land, it was nonetheless rich in birds and we had nice looks at Scarlet-backed Woodpeckers. The reserve itself packed a punch from the canopy tower, as wandering tanagers, toucans and barbets got up close and personal. We got to see such Chocó rainforest specialties as Orange-fronted Barbet, Scarlet-browed Tanager, Gray-and-gold Tanager and such other just-plain-pretty birds as Yellow-tufted Dacnis. On the way back to the lodge we stopped off in Los Bancos for some beers on the back porch of the Mirador overlooking the Rio Blanco. In addition to the Long-billed Starthroat at the hummingbird feeder, Swallow-tailed Kites (arguably one of the world’s most graceful raptors) were wheeling at eye level and below with the backdrop of forested hills and a whitewater torrent below.
After a few days of lower elevations, we took a morning and went back up. We birded the EcoRuta, the old road that is now largely the thoroughfare for a few farmers and just about every birder passing through the area. The upper-elevation, “subtropical”-type forest along the road is home to Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, of which we saw a few, as well as Ocellated Tapaculos, of which we saw one. This time it was also the home of the rare and local Black Solitaire, one of which popped up in a tree for us. Tanager flocks included the gaudy Grass-green, Golden-naped, Beryl-spangled and Blue-and-black, to name a few. After lunch we visited the Milpe reserve near Los Bancos where we were dazzled by a flock of about twenty Yellow-collared Chlorophonias, typically a bird that requires extensive squinting at a backlit canopy. But the real show was a lek of Club-winged Manakins. About ten of the little guys were strumming their feathers to impress a few interested females who came to witness the show.
“Venga! Maria! Venga!” Angel Paz calls to his “amiga” and, amazingly, a Giant Antpitta hops out of the forest and eats worms from the trail in front of a pack of delighted birders. Our last full day of birding began with a visit to the Reserva Paz de las Aves, operated by the Andean farmer-turned-birding celebrity. Among the birds that draw crowds to his farm we saw the Giant Antpitta, a family group of Dark-backed Wood-Quail, Black-chinned Mountain-Tanagers and an amazing two more Black Solitaires. Topping it off there, we watched a male Lyre-tailed Nightjar at a day roost along Angel’s driveway. We then went from one birding spectacle to another and spent hours watching hummingbirds at the residence of Tony Nunnery and Barbara Roswitha, who maintain some of the best hummingbird feeders in Ecuador. White-tailed Hillstar and Wedge-billed Hummingbird were new for the trip, but the diversity of species and numbers were just staggering. Based on the 100 pounds of sugar Tony goes through every two weeks during peak season, he estimates 5,000-7,000 hummers visiting a day! It’s a back porch experience that can’t be beat.
And then it was time to leave – but not immediately! We took a last stroll through the mossy cloud forests of the EcoRuta, catching up on a few birds like Pearled Treerunner and Cinnamon Flycatcher. After a quick stop to pose in front of the monument marking the Equator, we wrapped up our Ecuadorian birding experience with a stop in the inter-Andean valley in a rain shadow of arid vegetation. Away from the rain and fog we added a handful of new species specialized to this climate, including Tropical Mockingbird, Rusty Flowerpiercer and Band-tailed Seedeater. Then it was back to Quito to celebrate our birds and our memories.
Jon Feenstra
July 2010
In Brief: “Maria! Venga, venga…” The story of Angel Paz “cultivating” antpittas is well-known – but it’s one thing to read about it and another to sit in disbelief as two Giant Antpittas come bounding down the trail and hop around right in front of you! And only shortly after a spell-binding dawn hour at a lek of Andean Cock-of-the-Rocks, where the bizarre screams of these burning-bright cotingas echoed through the forest. This is just a snapshot of one morning on our aptly named “A Week in Paradise” tour. Then there were 37 species of hummingbirds – from Sword-billed and Giant Hummingbirds to the dazzling Velvet-purple Coronet and Empress Brilliant, endearing Booted Racket-tails, and swarms of Green Thorntails. Not to mention almost 50 species of tanagers, including Beryl-spangled, Moss-backed, Flame-faced, Gray-and-gold and Scarlet-browed. The spectrum of innumerable other highlights ran from point-blank views of stunning Crimson-mantled Woodpeckers and Plate-billed Mountain Toucans to the understated Olvaceous Piha and Nariño Tapaculo – and all based out of a comfortable lodge with great food and hospitality. Neotropical birding doesn’t get any better that this!
In Detail: All arrived in good time for dinner and an introduction to one of the most exciting birding destinations anywhere in the world. An early start the first day found us at Yanacocha reserve on the slopes of Volcan Pichincha, with our first “official” bird being a stunning male Golden-bellied Grosbeak. At the parking lot we started with a surprise Carunculated Caracara and a confiding Tawny Antpitta before a walk amid mild weather and breath-taking views of steep, forested mountainsides dappled with wisps of swirling cloud. The hummingbirds were simply out of this world, and after the first Sword-billed, Charlie announced he “was having one.” And then there were Great Sapphirewings, Buff-winged Starfrontlets, pufflegs, sunbeams, violetears and metaltails – names bestowed in the bygone poetic era of ornithology. Fast-moving flocks included three species of colorful mountain tanager and some beautiful Turquoise Jays among the abundant flowerpiercers. After lunch we headed down through steeply forested valleys to Séptimo Paraíso, our base for the coming week. A pair of Andean Lapwings was a pleasant surprise, Denise spotted the dippers, Edwin the displaying Cock-of-the-Rocks and then we were “home” – to be greeted by more dazzling hummers and a roosting Common Potoo in the yard. Not bad for a “travel day”
Our first morning at Mindo we simply walked from the lodge, where there were more than enough birds to keep us busy (for some almost to the point of overload). Dawn sounds included a Wattled Guan and plenty of motmots, and birds seen included a confiding Sickle-winged Guan, Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Violet-tailed Sylphs and an elusive Barred Forest Falcon. After lunch and a siesta our “hummer recap” was interrupted by a stealthy Scaled Antpitta, then a stunning Velvet-purple Coronet. Afternoon birding nearby produced Choco Toucan, perched Red-billed Parrots, a “cute” Scale-crested Pygmy Tyrant and spectacular Lyre-tailed Nightjars.
An early start to the nearby Tandayapa ridge offered a slightly different suite of birds, with Plate-billed Mountain Toucan (including a pair seemingly hunting for nestling Smoke-colored Pewees!), Toucan Barbet, Spillman’s Tapaculo, Grass-green Tanager and Powerful Woodpecker. The rain set in after lunch but we were able to stay dry at Tony and Barbara’s feeders for a very pleasant afternoon getting to grips with some of the area’s many dazzling hummingbirds. An even earlier start the next day took us to the little-birded Machpe road, and more spectacular roadside forest birding. Highlights included kettling (and molting!) Swallow-tailed Kites, screaming Golden-headed Quetzals, a begging baby Violet-tailed Sylph, an intense Indigo Flowerpiercer, the stunning “trinity” of Moss-backed, Flame-faced and Glistening-green Tanagers and a surprise Olivaceous Piha well-spotted by Wendy. After a pleasant picnic lunch beside the untraveled road we headed back to the lodge by late afternoon. Another great dinner featured another great dessert approved by Darlene, and then it was time for a well-deserved sleep in preparation for our earliest departure of the trip.
After a few days of “almost overload” birding it was pleasant to spend a quiet morning in the forest – if a screaming lek of Andean Cock-of-the-Rock plus point-blank Giant and Yellow-breasted Antpittas can be called quiet. Rains and low cloud moved in by midday, but afternoon birds included Golden-headed Quetzals and a distant Long-wattled Umbrellabird, perched on a bare snag against the misty forest – a fitting end to a memorable afternoon.
The next day was a change of pace as we headed to lower elevations and a whole new suite of birds – from Choco Trogon and Gray Elaenia to White-bearded Manakin and Red-billed Scythebill. The tower at Silanche allowed us a privileged view into the forest canopy world where the progression of different flycatchers was impressive, and a stop at Milpe’s swarming hummingbird feeders on our way home was truly mind-blowing.
Our last birding/travel day we bid a fond farewell to Séptimo, to Lily and all the staff, and worked our way back to Quito via Club-winged and Golden-winged Manakins, confiding Masked Trogons, stunning Crimson-mantled Woodpeckers, the impressive Giant Hummingbird and a “cute” Tufted Tit Tyrant. All too soon it was time to say goodbye to Edwin, get in some last-minute shopping and enjoy our last dinner and sleep, before our homebound flights. Thanks to all for making this such a memorable, bird-filled and fun trip.
Steve Howell
Updated: March 2012