2012 Tour Narrative
Our 10-day tour to Ecuador’s immensely diverse Amazonian lowlands provided a fantastic array of birds in a comfortable setting with excellent food. We managed an impressive 372 species of birds with 27 species of hummingbirds (thanks in large part to a day-trip out of Quito) including such gems as Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Violet-tailed Sylph and Booted Racquet-tail. The week at La Selva was tranquil with our time spent either walking on one of the many trails around the lodge or in nearby Yasuni National Park, being paddled through the varzea forests by dugout canoe, or watching the canopy from atop the lodge’s 100-foot-high canopy tower. From gaudy Tanagers such as Paradise, Opal-crowned, Yellow-bellied and Masked Crimson to skulking understory flocks with Cinereous and Dusky-throated Antshrikes, there always seemed to be plenty of birds around to look at. We encountered a few rarities this year, including resident species such as Yellow-throated Woodpecker, Red-and-Green Macaw, Cocha Antshrike, Red-billed Scythebill, Orange-crowned Manakin, all six of the possible species of jacamars, Collared Puffbird and Riverside Tyrant. I am always amazed at the diversity in the forests here; no two outings – and no two years – are ever the same. One could easily spend years here and still turn up new species. I can think of no better way to ring in the New Year!
Our day in the highlands northwest of Quito was full of colorful birds set against a breathtaking backdrop of volcanic peaks, small farming villages, rushing Andean streams and densely forested slopes. We started off on the upper slopes of the Volcán Pichincha, where the Jocotoco Foundation has established a beautiful reserve that protects some nice stands of native forest. The undisputed highlights here were furnished by the battery of feeders at the end of the main trail, where we were thrilled by seven species of high-elevation hummingbirds such as the huge Great Sapphirewing, dozens of Buff-winged Starfrontlets, Tyrian Metaltail, and Sapphire-vented and Golden-breasted Pufflegs. Of particular note this year were our repeated views of a Rainbow-bearded Thornbill on the walk into the reserve and a Curve-billed Tinamou walking along the main road. We encountered a few of the scarcer species en route to the hummingbird feeders this year and, from the dazzling Powerful Woodpecker to a pair of Barred Fruiteaters and a tame Rufous Antpitta, there always seemed to be something to attract our attentions. Tanagers were in evidence as well with the local specialty Black-chested Mountain-Tanager, as well as the gaudy Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers crossing our path. On the walk back we were treated to an outstanding show as roiling clouds came whipping up the slopes, enveloping everything in thick fog. In the afternoon we made our way down to the Tandayapa Valley. En route we stopped to investigate a large mixed flock which was dripping with gaudy tanagers such as Golden, Blue-and-Black, Fawn-Breasted and Flame-faced, as well as nearly a half dozen Masked Trogons and a smattering of flycatchers. Unfortunately we were hampered by some unseasonably wet weather once we reached the valley, but we hunkered down under the sheltered deck of a local house to watch an amazing hummingbird show. Over the course of two hours we encountered an incredible 16 species of hummingbirds, including such gems as Violet-tailed Sylph, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Booted Raquet-tail and Velvet-purple Coronet coming in to the array of feeders. Also present, just to add to the colorful fiesta, were several Golden-naped and Beryl-spangled Tanagers, a small flock of perched Red-billed Parrots and some feeding Crimson-rumped Toucanets. As the day drew to a close we walked down one of the nearby trails and encountered a fantastic flock of understory birds. In this single flock we had four write-in species for the cumulative list – Lineated Foliage-gleaner, Rusty-winged Barbtail, Flavescent Flycatcher and Western Hemispingus. This introductory day to the wonders of Andean birding never fails to entertain!
The week at La Selva Lodge was a fantastic introduction to the diverse and lush Amazonian lowland forests. La Selva is perched along the shores of an old oxbow lake and surrounded by expansive varzea forests. It has a timeless feel to it and, apart from upgraded cabins, seems little changed from its inception almost 25 years ago. Hoatzins and Greater Anis still stalk the edge of the lake, which is full of Spectacled Caiman and Arapaima. Parrots still flock overhead each evening, and nesting colonies of Yellow-rumped Caciques and Russet-crowned Oropendolas still drape from the lodge trees. Birding along trails through the forest, or slowly being paddled around the lake or its tributary creeks by canoe provides a wonderful experience, and new species of birds seem to pop up continually, regardless of the length of one’s stay.
Trips by canoe around Garzacocha Lake and its tributaries produced excellent views of all three of the real target species of La Selva this year. On one afternoon’s paddle we enjoyed lengthy and close-range views of a calling Orange-crowned Manakin, a little-known varzea specialist. Later on the same outing we coaxed a pair of the very rare Cocha Antshrikes from the riverside vegetation. This beautiful and little-known species was rediscovered in 1991 just a few miles from the lodge after a many decade long absence! The next day we managed views of the third target with close studies of a Zigzag Heron. This widespread species is arguably the hardest heron to see in the Americas, but seems to be quite reliable around La Selva’s backwater creeks. Also by canoe we found Dot-backed, Silvered and Plumbeous Antbirds, Striped Woodcreeper, Green-and-Rufous Kingfisher and Boat-billed Heron.
The trails behind the lodge were productive this year, with a new selection of species to observe every time we walked out. A nice mid-story flock on the first afternoon contained the superlative Golden-collared Toucanet, a pair of Gilded Barbets, our first of what would eventually be 11 species of woodcreepers, a first-for-the-tour Yellow-throated Woodpecker foraging quietly close to the trail, and both Cinereous and Dusky-throated Antshrikes. Other walks produced such finds as Ruddy Quail-Dove, Purple-throated Fruitcrow and White-breasted Wood and Scaly-breasted Wrens. Mammals too were in evidence, and it seemed that troupes of Squirrel Monkeys were near-constant companions this year. A few groups of the colorful (and loud) Red Howler Monkeys were encountered along the trails and several times we had views of the diminutive and charismatic Black-mantled Tamarins as they bounded through the canopy.
The 100-foot canopy tower was excellent this year, as both the nearby Cecropia trees and several close canopy trees were in fruit. We ventured up into the tower twice over the course of the week, and both times were justly rewarded for our efforts. From a perched Plum-throated Cotinga, to yelping White-throated Toucans and eye-level views of foraging Chestnut-eared and Ivory-billed Aracaris, there never seemed to be a lull in the canopy. On our full morning visit, several mixed flocks of canopy tanagers and flycatchers drifted by, often coming to within a few feet of the tower’s top platform. We enjoyed a parade of color, with Paradise, Opal-rumped, Opal-crowned, Turquoise, Yellow-bellied, Green-and-Gold and Swallow Tanagers, with a few species of euphonias, honeycreepers and dacnises thrown in for good measure. A pair of the outstanding Cream-colored Woodpeckers came into the canopy tree one morning and foraged around for almost 10 minutes, while Yellow-browed Tody-Tyrants and Gray Elaenias were nesting almost within reach.
One morning we ventured further downstream on the Rio Napo for a visit to two river islands. The early and mid-successional habitats common to these sandy riverine islands allow us to access a variety of specialized avifauna such as the Castelnau’s Antshrikes and Black-and-White Antbirds, which behaved nicely, as did Olive-spotted Hummingbird. The Amazonian Umbrellabirds that use the islands as predator-free roost sites were present again this year, but failed to give us lengthy views. As a small consolation, several small flocks of Blue-winged Parrotlets decorated open trees on the island, and a great mixed flock contained Little and Spot-breasted Woodpeckers, Barred Antshrike, Fuscous Flycatcher, and Silver-beaked and Orange-headed Tanagers. Our visit to a smaller island was particularly productive for flycatchers this year, with Drab Water-Tyrant, River Tyrannulet and (a first-for-the-tour) pair of Riverside Tyrants as well as several roosting Ladder-tailed Nightjars and a host of Chestnut-bellied and Caqueta Seedeaters. Herons, shorebirds, terns and swallows were all well-represented that morning, and overall nearly 50 species that we did not encounter in the primary forests around the lodge deigned to show themselves! A single female Blue-winged Teal (our first duck species for the La Selva area in 10 years of trips) provided a nice surprise during our journey back to the lodge.
We also spent two days exploring the forests on the south bank of the Rio Napo in Yasuni National Park, where there is ready access by foot into a staggering amount of protected land and rolling terra firma forest. Typically this higher forest supports an even higher diversity of birds, and we frequently encounter mixed-species flocks and, if lucky, active antswarms along the trails. On one of the mornings we visited a pair of clay licks, which attract hundreds of parrots each day. The birds eat some of the exposed clay, ingesting minerals, and possibly also counteracting some of the phyto-alkaloids that are contained in the forest fruit and nuts. Watching as a veritable green tornado of Cobalt-winged Parakeets swirl down from the canopy, accompanied by lesser numbers of Mealy, Yellow-crowned and Blue-headed Parrots, Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlets and our leader’s personal favorite, the colorful Orange-cheeked Parrot, is truly a wonderful experience. The two outer licks this year were very active, with hundreds of birds in attendance. The interior forest lick was also well attended, but a nearby Slate-colored Hawk was preventing the birds from coming down to the ground. We enjoyed views of all the species present, including some gaudy Scarlet Macaws, and then took a trail up above the lick while some of the group remained behind to wait out the parrots. Both choices proved successful, as the hiking group encountered a suite of jewel-like manakins (including Blue-crowned, White-crowned, Golden-headed, Striped and Dwarf-Tyrant) as well as Great and Yellow-billed Jacamars and very brief views of a fleeing Giant Anteater. The group that remained back enjoyed a mass of parrots that eventually descended and foraged within 20 meters of the blind.
The last full day was spent walking the terra firma trails of Yasuni National Park where we were rewarded with such enigmatic understory species as Banded and Yellow-browed Antbirds and Ringed Antpipit. A large mixed flock entertained us for nearly an hour just before our excellent picnic lunch. The flock contained a full measure of birds, from Purplish Jacamars to Flame-crested Tanagers, and from Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaners to Pink-throated Becards. It was often difficult to know which way to look, but we were lucky that the birds spent much of the hour foraging right over the trail allowing us repeated views.
All too soon the week came to a close, but even on the boat ride out to Coca we were able to add a few last species in the form of a surprise Roseate Spoonbill and a perched Peregrine Falcon. At the Coca airport, a final group of Red-breasted Blackbirds were seen along the runway. Boasting a list of over 600 species, the forests around La Selva are among the most diverse regions in the Amazon Basin. Being able to easily access this forest, with excellent local guides, superb food and comfortable lodging is simply fantastic. I look forward to leading trips to La Selva Lodge for many years to come.
Gavin Bieber
January 2012
Updated: February 2012