This short 10-day tour to Ecuador’s immensely diverse Amazonian lowlands provided a fantastic array of birds in a comfortable setting with excellent food. We managed an impressive 376 species of birds with 33 species of hummingbirds (thanks in part to a day out of Quito) including such gems as Sword-billed Hummingbird, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Violet-tailed Sylph and Booted Racquet-tail. The week at La Selva was tranquil, and we spent our time walking the many trails around the lodge, being paddled through the Varzea forests by dugout canoe and watching the canopy from atop the lodge’s 100-foot-high observation tower. From gaudy Tanagers such as Paradise, Opal-crowned, Yellow-bellied and Masked Crimson to skulking understory flocks with Cinereous and Dusky-throated Antshrikes, there always seemed to be plenty of birds around to look at. We encountered a few rarities this year, including resident species such as Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak and Slender-billed Xenops, and unusual boreal migrants such as Vermilion Flycatcher and Prothonotary Warbler. A special highlight for me this year was encountering two active ant swarms in Yasuni National Park. These were attended by the exquisite White-plumed Antbird as well as the rarely encountered Hairy-crested Antbird and a female Reddish-winged Bare-eye!  A third ant swarm, this time in Varzea forest, attracted a pair of Black-spotted Bare-eyes and a foraging Grison (a large silver-and-black weasel).

 

Our day in the highlands northwest of Quito was full of colorful birds set against a breathtaking backdrop of volcanic peaks, small farming villages, rushing Andean streams and densely forested slopes. We started off on the upper slopes of the Volcan Pichincha, where the Jocotoco Foundation has established a beautiful reserve that protects some nice stands of native forest. The undoubted highlights here were furnished by the battery of hummingbird feeders at the end of the main trail, where we were thrilled by eight species of high-elevation hummingbirds such as the improbable Sword-billed Hummingbird, a female Mountain Velvetbreast, the impressive Great Sapphirewing, Tyrian Metaltail and two species of Pufflegs. To add to the show we were treated to a seemingly tame Tawny Antpitta who came to investigate the group as we enjoyed a picnic lunch, and we greatly enjoyed good views of the local Black-chested and gaudy Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers. Of particular surprise was a somewhat cooperative White-chinned Thistletail in a grassy clearing, our first record of this species from this location. On the walk back we were treated to an outstanding show as roiling clouds came whipping up the slopes, enveloping everything temporarily in thick fog and then clearing, making it seem as if we were walking on air. In the afternoon we made our way down to the Tandayapa Valley. En route we marveled at a stand of fruiting Cecropia, which were attended by a small flock of the charismatic Plate-billed Mountain-Toucans and a single Toucan Barbet. Unfortunately we were hampered by some unseasonably wet weather once we reached the valley, but we hunkered down under the sheltered deck of a local house to watch an amazing hummingbird show. Over the course of two hours we encountered 18 species of hummingbirds, including such gems as Violet-tailed Sylph, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Booted Raquet-tail and Purple-throated Woodstar coming in to the array of feeders. Also present, just to add to the colorful fiesta, were several Golden-naped and Golden Tanagers. As the day drew to a close we added our final hummingbird, a Collared Inca (for a daily total of 24 species), and then headed back to Quito for the evening.

 

The week at La Selva was a fantastic introduction to the diverse and lush Amazonian lowland forests. La Selva Lodge is perched along the shores of an old oxbow lake, and surrounded by expansive Varzea forests. It has a timeless feel to it, and apart from upgraded cabins seems little changed from its inception almost 25 years ago. Hoatzins and Greater Anis still stalk the edge of the lake, which is full of Spectacled Caiman and Arapaima. Parrots still flock overhead each evening, and nesting colonies of Yellow-rumped Caciques and Russet-crowned Oropendolas still drape from the lodge trees. Birding along trails through the forest, or slowly being paddled around the lake or its tributary creeks by canoe never fails to impress, and new species of birds seem to pop up continually, regardless of the length of ones stay.

 

Trips by canoe around Garzacocha Lake and its tributaries produced excellent views of one of the real target species of La Selva this year, as on the first night we enjoyed close studies of a pair of Zigzag Herons. Also by canoe we found Dot-backed, Silvered, Blackish and Plumbeous Antbirds, Striped Woodcreeper, Green-and-Rufous Kingfisher and Boat-billed Heron. The trails behind the lodge were productive this year, with a large ant swarm containing Black-spotted Bare-eye and a foraging Grison, several mixed-canopy and understory flocks, and wonderful looks at Wire-tailed Manakin. Even after a week’s birding these myriad trails seemed very productive, with birds such as a quietly foraging Bartlett’s Tinamou, or an almost incandescent Great Jacamar lighting up our last foray into the woods.

 

The 100-foot canopy tower was excellent this year, as both the nearby Cecropia trees and several close canopy trees were in fruit. We ventured up into the tower four times over the course of the week, and each time were justly rewarded for our efforts. From perched Plum-throated and Spangled Cotingas, to yelping White-throated Toucans and flocks of foraging Many-banded Aracaris there never really seemed to be a lull in the canopy. On several occasions mixed flocks of canopy tanagers and flycatchers drifted by (often coming to within a few feet of the tower’s top platform). We enjoyed a parade of color, with Paradise, Opal-rumped, Opal-crowned, Masked, Yellow-bellied, Green-and-Gold and Masked Crimson Tanagers, as well as four species of euphonia and several honeycreepers and dacnises thrown in for good measure. A pair of the outstanding Cream-colored Woodpeckers came into the canopy trees one morning, and Yellow-browed Tody-Tyrants were nesting almost within reach. Some real highlights from the tower include a perched Ornate Hawk-Eagle who looked us over carefully one late morning, a pair of the incredible Long-billed Woodcreepers which foraged just below us, and a diminutive Lanceolated Monklet that decided to spend an hour or so just over our heads.

 

A daytrip to two nearby islands in the Rio Napo allowed us to access a specialized avifauna that utilizes the early and mid-successional habitats common to riverine islands. The Castelnau’s Antshrikes behaved nicely, as did Olive-spotted Hummingbird and a nice trio of Spinetails (Parker’s, White-bellied and Dark-breasted). We also enjoyed excellent views of the splendid Oriole Blackbird, a quick visit with Lesser Wagtail-Tyrant and Lesser Hornero and several pairs of the chic Pied Plover along a sandbank. We also were treated to repeated views of Ladder-tailed Nightjar and a wonderful flyover by an Amazonian Umbrellabird, which often use these riverine islands to roost and to forage.

 

We also spent two days exploring the forests on the south bank of the Rio Napo. Here, in Yasuni National Park, there stretches a staggering amount of protected land with ready access by foot into rolling terra firma forest. Typically this higher forest supports an even higher diversity of birds, and we frequently encounter mixed species flocks and, if lucky, active ant swarms along the trails. On one of the mornings we visited a pair of clay licks, which attract hundreds of parrots each day. The birds eat some of the exposed clay, ingesting minerals, and possibly also counteracting some of the phyto-alkaloids that they ingest as they take in forest fruit and nuts. Watching as a veritable green tornado of Cobalt-winged Parakeets swirl down from the canopy, accompanied by lesser numbers of Mealy, Yellow-crowned and Blue-headed Parrots, Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlets and our leader’s personal favorite, the colorful Orange-cheeked Parrot. A particular surprise this year was furnished by scope views of a calling Sapphire Quail-Dove and, even more astonishing, a close encounter with an Ocelot, which walked across the path to the clay lick viewing area in the middle of the day! 

 

The terra firma trails were very productive this year, with a wealth of beautiful manakins (including Green, Striped, White-crowned and Blue-backed), White-eared Jacamar, a canopy flock containing a Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak, Dugand’s and Rio Suno Antwrens, and Mouse-colored and Spot-winged Antshrikes. Of particular note however were two ant swarms. The first was well attended by a number of the beautiful White-plumbed Antbird, as well as a pair of Hairy-crested Antbirds. The second swarm contained both of these species, and as a bonus a female Reddish-winged Bare-eye and a Black-tailed Leaftosser!

 

All too soon the week came to a close, but even on the boat ride out to Coca we were able to add a few last species in t

This short 10-day tour to Ecuador’s immensely diverse Amazonian lowlands provided a fantastic array of birds in a comfortable setting with excellent food. We managed an impressive 376 species of birds with 33 species of hummingbirds (thanks in part to a day out of Quito) including such gems as Sword-billed Hummingbird, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Violet-tailed Sylph and Booted Racquet-tail. The week at La Selva was tranquil, and we spent our time walking the many trails around the lodge, being paddled through the Varzea forests by dugout canoe and watching the canopy from atop the lodge’s 100-foot-high observation tower. From gaudy Tanagers such as Paradise, Opal-crowned, Yellow-bellied and Masked Crimson to skulking understory flocks with Cinereous and Dusky-throated Antshrikes, there always seemed to be plenty of birds around to look at. We encountered a few rarities this year, including resident species such as Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak and Slender-billed Xenops, and unusual boreal migrants such as Vermilion Flycatcher and Prothonotary Warbler. A special highlight for me this year was encountering two active ant swarms in Yasuni National Park. These were attended by the exquisite White-plumed Antbird as well as the rarely encountered Hairy-crested Antbird and a female Reddish-winged Bare-eye!  A third ant swarm, this time in Varzea forest, attracted a pair of Black-spotted Bare-eyes and a foraging Grison (a large silver-and-black weasel).

Our day in the highlands northwest of Quito was full of colorful birds set against a breathtaking backdrop of volcanic peaks, small farming villages, rushing Andean streams and densely forested slopes. We started off on the upper slopes of the Volcan Pichincha, where the Jocotoco Foundation has established a beautiful reserve that protects some nice stands of native forest. The undoubted highlights here were furnished by the battery of hummingbird feeders at the end of the main trail, where we were thrilled by eight species of high-elevation hummingbirds such as the improbable Sword-billed Hummingbird, a female Mountain Velvetbreast, the impressive Great Sapphirewing, Tyrian Metaltail and two species of Pufflegs. To add to the show we were treated to a seemingly tame Tawny Antpitta who came to investigate the group as we enjoyed a picnic lunch, and we greatly enjoyed good views of the local Black-chested and gaudy Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers. Of particular surprise was a somewhat cooperative White-chinned Thistletail in a grassy clearing, our first record of this species from this location. On the walk back we were treated to an outstanding show as roiling clouds came whipping up the slopes, enveloping everything temporarily in thick fog and then clearing, making it seem as if we were walking on air. In the afternoon we made our way down to the Tandayapa Valley. En route we marveled at a stand of fruiting Cecropia, which were attended by a small flock of the charismatic Plate-billed Mountain-Toucans and a single Toucan Barbet. Unfortunately we were hampered by some unseasonably wet weather once we reached the valley, but we hunkered down under the sheltered deck of a local house to watch an amazing hummingbird show. Over the course of two hours we encountered 18 species of hummingbirds, including such gems as Violet-tailed Sylph, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Booted Raquet-tail and Purple-throated Woodstar coming in to the array of feeders. Also present, just to add to the colorful fiesta, were several Golden-naped and Golden Tanagers. As the day drew to a close we added our final hummingbird, a Collared Inca (for a daily total of 24 species), and then headed back to Quito for the evening.

The week at La Selva was a fantastic introduction to the diverse and lush Amazonian lowland forests. La Selva Lodge is perched along the shores of an old oxbow lake, and surrounded by expansive Varzea forests. It has a timeless feel to it, and apart from upgraded cabins seems little changed from its inception almost 25 years ago. Hoatzins and Greater Anis still stalk the edge of the lake, which is full of Spectacled Caiman and Arapaima. Parrots still flock overhead each evening, and nesting colonies of Yellow-rumped Caciques and Russet-crowned Oropendolas still drape from the lodge trees. Birding along trails through the forest, or slowly being paddled around the lake or its tributary creeks by canoe never fails to impress, and new species of birds seem to pop up continually, regardless of the length of ones stay.

Trips by canoe around Garzacocha Lake and its tributaries produced excellent views of one of the real target species of La Selva this year, as on the first night we enjoyed close studies of a pair of Zigzag Herons. Also by canoe we found Dot-backed, Silvered, Blackish and Plumbeous Antbirds, Striped Woodcreeper, Green-and-Rufous Kingfisher and Boat-billed Heron. The trails behind the lodge were productive this year, with a large ant swarm containing Black-spotted Bare-eye and a foraging Grison, several mixed-canopy and understory flocks, and wonderful looks at Wire-tailed Manakin. Even after a week’s birding these myriad trails seemed very productive, with birds such as a quietly foraging Bartlett’s Tinamou, or an almost incandescent Great Jacamar lighting up our last foray into the woods.

The 100-foot canopy tower was excellent this year, as both the nearby Cecropia trees and several close canopy trees were in fruit. We ventured up into the tower four times over the course of the week, and each time were justly rewarded for our efforts. From perched Plum-throated and Spangled Cotingas, to yelping White-throated Toucans and flocks of foraging Many-banded Aracaris there never really seemed to be a lull in the canopy. On several occasions mixed flocks of canopy tanagers and flycatchers drifted by (often coming to within a few feet of the tower’s top platform). We enjoyed a parade of color, with Paradise, Opal-rumped, Opal-crowned, Masked, Yellow-bellied, Green-and-Gold and Masked Crimson Tanagers, as well as four species of euphonia and several honeycreepers and dacnises thrown in for good measure. A pair of the outstanding Cream-colored Woodpeckers came into the canopy trees one morning, and Yellow-browed Tody-Tyrants were nesting almost within reach. Some real highlights from the tower include a perched Ornate Hawk-Eagle who looked us over carefully one late morning, a pair of the incredible Long-billed Woodcreepers which foraged just below us, and a diminutive Lanceolated Monklet that decided to spend an hour or so just over our heads.

A daytrip to two nearby islands in the Rio Napo allowed us to access a specialized avifauna that utilizes the early and mid-successional habitats common to riverine islands. The Castelnau’s Antshrikes behaved nicely, as did Olive-spotted Hummingbird and a nice trio of Spinetails (Parker’s, White-bellied and Dark-breasted). We also enjoyed excellent views of the splendid Oriole Blackbird, a quick visit with Lesser Wagtail-Tyrant and Lesser Hornero and several pairs of the chic Pied Plover along a sandbank. We also were treated to repeated views of Ladder-tailed Nightjar and a wonderful flyover by an Amazonian Umbrellabird, which often use these riverine islands to roost and to forage.

We also spent two days exploring the forests on the south bank of the Rio Napo. Here, in Yasuni National Park, there stretches a staggering amount of protected land with ready access by foot into rolling terra firma forest. Typically this higher forest supports an even higher diversity of birds, and we frequently encounter mixed species flocks and, if lucky, active ant swarms along the trails. On one of the mornings we visited a pair of clay licks, which attract hundreds of parrots each day. The birds eat some of the exposed clay, ingesting minerals, and possibly also counteracting some of the phyto-alkaloids that they ingest as they take in forest fruit and nuts. Watching as a veritable green tornado of Cobalt-winged Parakeets swirl down from the canopy, accompanied by lesser numbers of Mealy, Yellow-crowned and Blue-headed Parrots, Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlets and our leader’s personal favorite, the colorful Orange-cheeked Parrot. A particular surprise this year was furnished by scope views of a calling Sapphire Quail-Dove and, even more astonishing, a close encounter with an Ocelot, which walked across the path to the clay lick viewing area in the middle of the day! 

The terra firma trails were very productive this year, with a wealth of beautiful manakins (including Green, Striped, White-crowned and Blue-backed), White-eared Jacamar, a canopy flock containing a Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak, Dugand’s and Rio Suno Antwrens, and Mouse-colored and Spot-winged Antshrikes. Of particular note however were two ant swarms. The first was well attended by a number of the beautiful White-plumbed Antbird, as well as a pair of Hairy-crested Antbirds. The second swarm contained both of these species, and as a bonus a female Reddish-winged Bare-eye and a Black-tailed Leaftosser!

All too soon the week came to a close, but even on the boat ride out to Coca we were able to add a few last species in the form of Yellow-billed Tern, Amazon Kingfisher, and, at the Coca airport, a Vermilion Flycatcher. With a species list of over 600, the forests around La Selva are among the most diverse regions in the Amazon Basin. Being able to easily access the forest with excellent local guides, superb food and comfortable lodging is simply fantastic. I look forward to leading trips to La Selva for many years to come.

Gavin Bieber
January 2011

he form of Yellow-billed Tern, Amazon Kingfisher, and, at the Coca airport, a Vermilion Flycatcher. With a species list of over 600, the forests around La Selva are among the most diverse regions in the Amazon Basin. Being able to easily access the forest with excellent local guides, superb food and comfortable lodging is simply fantastic. I look forward to leading trips to La Selva for many years to come.

 

Gavin Bieber

January 2011