2010 Tour Narrative
Some trips have one bird or experience that eclipses all others. But others seem to offer one highlight after another. Such was the case with this tour. Two Horned Coots found on a high Andean lake and a pair of White-bellied Seedsnipe, first calling, then flying in and landing closer and closer until finally they were within easy viewing distance vied for two of the best sightings of the trip. The scream ‘there it is’ will linger in our minds for a long-time to come and a viewing of Garganta del Diablo at Iguazú falls under an almost full moon may well have been the experience of the tour. But, back to the beginning….
Our very early first morning flight to Salta gave us extra time to bird the bird-rich area near our hotel. Cream-backed Woodpecker, White-tipped Plantcutter and Red-legged Seriema followed by Common Potoo, Tropical Screech Owl and Scissor-tailed Nightjar on our night excursion set a positive omen to an exciting week in the Northwest. Each stop on our journey toward San Martin had us enjoying a new subset of birds – waterbirds at local reservoirs, a pair of Spot-backed Puffbirds, and a selection of small passerines. Our day in the higher part of Calilegua National Park tested our skills to sight birds through dense fog and rain. This challenging weather, however, probably benefited us with incredible views of both Stripe-headed and Fulvous-headed Brush-Finches feeding along the roadside, a Barred Forest-Falcon that perched for all to see, Blue-crowned Trogon, Rufous Casiornis and Black-capped Antwrens as we kept descending to lower altitudes in search of better birding weather. Our second day in the park, having already seen many of the lower park species, allowed us to ascend to higher altitudes where we soon enjoyed close views of a White-throated Antpitta, followed by a pair of Giant Antshrikes and other species missed the previous day.
The family of Torrent Ducks and a nesting Rufous-throated Dipper provided a most enjoyable afternoon of birding the Yala Valley while a male Lyre-tailed Nightjar caught in the beam of the spotlight was magic once darkness fell in the valley. Red-faced Guans made a brief appearance the following morning before we began our ascent of the Argentine Andes. Gray-hooded and Mountain Parakeets, Giant Hummingbirds, Red-tailed Comets and the scenery of the Andes captivated us during our drive to Abra Pampa. Our late afternoon stop at Lago Huancar was filled with new species as we sighted Giant Coots, Puna and Chilean flamingos, Puna Ibis, Andean Geese, Andean Avocet and then the ultimate prize, a pair of Horned Coots. The pink hues of 3 species of flamingos provided a stunning backdrop while scanning the high-altitude lakes including Pozuelos. During our day-long trip to Pozuelos, some species, including Vicuñas, were easy, while others, especially Puna Rheas required a bit more work. As we descended toward Jujuy for our flight to Buenos Aires, we found the breathing a bit easier and were sated with the birds, culture, and beauty of this less visited area of the country. Judy Davis
Updated: April 2011